LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



dlpii, eopiriolf fa 

. ^\^x^ 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



*HOME* 



./ -^ (»' 




t\ 



ecoFatife 



hWSrii. 



COMPILED BY 



THE EDITOR OF "THE HOUSEKEEPER. 



1 1 



FULL r LLL US TRA TED. 




BICKEY?: PUBLISHING COMPANY 

MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. 

1S9I. 






COPYRIGHTED BY 

BUCKEYE PUBLISHINC CO. 

1890. 
ALL lildlirH lUCSEHVICJi. 



TXTTU)nr('TTOI^. 



It is the inexorable rule of life that necessities shall 
come first; but, when these are secured, the next object always 
is, or should be, to add to them something of beauty. Hu- 
man life that does not rise above the bare necessities of physi- 
cal existence is scarcely worth the living. It is woman's pe- 
culiar province to supply this need of beauty in the home, to 
cover the hard facts of life with something })lcasant to look 
upon — something to refine and elevate. This is the primary 
object of the decorative arts, and we have borne it in mind 
in selecting these patterns. In this pleasant work we have 
])een greatly aided by ladies who have made a specialty of the 
household decorative arts. Fancy work can l)e carried to 
an undesirable extreme, like every other good thing. We 
have no sympathy with those who take it up as the serious 
business of life to the neglect of more important matters; 
but when all other duties are conscientiously attended to, it is 
then a matter worthy of time, patience and zeal. Those who 
are debarred, through illness, from taking part in the more 
active work of life, but who gladly turn to any device by 
which their hands may be usefully and pleasantly emploj'ed, 
welcome this kind of work. We hope that our readers may 
derive as much i)leasure from this little volume as we have 
taken in i)rci)aring it. 



CO]^TENTS. 



TAOK 

Eiubrnidcry. .......... .5-43 

Knitting, 44-165 

Crochrt. 166-318 

Netting, 319-3.54 

Tatting, 355-37'.i 

Painting, 380-41.5 

PajxT Flower INIalcing, . . 416-44.5 

Drawn Work, 446-4.53 




jion}c Decorative Work 



l^art 1. 

EMBROIDERY. 

' HERE is nothing in the Avay of ornamentation more beautiful than 
well wrought embroidery, and no branch of needlework is more 
,«, truly artistic It is used so extensively for decorative purposes— 
e^Cy year becoming more popular-that a Uuly's education hardly seems 
complete without some knowledge of it. Every day we see draperies de- 
scribed and are told how they are decorated, but we seldom see dn-ections for 
executing the work. There is no one who can not learn to do this damty 
work well, if she will only give it a little time, care, and patience; this is 
especially true of embroideries in white. To do colored embroidery and 
have it at all satistactory, one must have a little of the genius of an artist 
since much depends on the selection and grouping of the colors AMth goml 
materials, a few stamping patterns, and a knowledge of embroidery, the 
ambitious housewife can make her rooms beautiful with very little expense. 
In the beginning, it is best to have a few well selected perforated patterns; 
but be sure you do not buy a worthless host of small ones. Those yon want 
are the life-like ones of natural size. Eemember, too, that there is a vast 
difference in the quality of patterns; some are more finely perforated than 
others, and will make the finest lines. A good list to begin with is as fol- 
Icws- one peacock feather, natural size; wild rose design, consisting of three 
roses two buds and a dozen leaves, natural size; a snowball design, reduced 
iu size- pond lilies floating on water, natural or almost natural size; autumn 
leaves,' natural size; and daisies, all standing around the bottom of the 
paper some drooping, others erect. These are all dioice and md.spensjible 
designs and you may add many others by and by, such as those used on 
perftimery bottles, large letters for napkins, etc. There are lew of the 

5 



Home Decor ati\e Wokk. 




stitches in embroidery which are really difficult. Some of the jnost beau- 
tiful work is composed of the simplest stitches, but so carefully done that 
every stitch is exactly like the others. 

Stitches Used in Embroidery. 

KENSIXCJTOX OUTLIXE STITCH. 

This is the simplest of all the embroidery stitches. It is represented in 
Fig. 1 and consists of a long stitch forward and a 
short stitch back, A\ith the needle always pointing 
towards the worker when it is pushed through the 
cloth. It is what used to be called stem stitch, and 
is the best stitch for all outline work. It is not very 
diiferent from the cording stitch shown in Fig. 2. 
In the latter, the stitch forward is but little longer 
than the stitch Ijack, while in the former the differ- 
ence is much greater. The Kensington outline would 
be used for the leaves of a jilant, for instance, while 
the cording stitch is most appropriate for the stem. 
Outline embroidery is easily learned, and when well 
done is very effective. After a, little practice, the 
worker can draw her own pattern3, and her rooms 
may be brightened with fancy Avork at very little 
expense. Fig. I> shows a design so simple that any child may draw it, 
and yet one which, when worked, is really pretty. The outline stitch is 
often effectively combined with painting on fabrics. Several methods of 
doing it are mentioned in Part 4. 

KEXSIXGTON EMBEOIDEKY. 

In this the jiattern is filled in with a simple back- 
stitch without any special regularity, except such as is 
necessary for the shading. There is no kind of em- 
broidery in which shading may be done more effect- 
i\ely. Where the shades are to be blended, take the 
stitc-hes of the first row of irregular length, some long 
and .some short, leaving tiny spaces between them 
which are to be filled in wifli the next shade in a sim- 
ilar manner, until ihe siii(«)tli outline of the flower is 
reached. 

J.llN<i-AXl)-SllUKT STITCH. x,^, ., 

f Hi. 1. 

Tliis is something like the old-fashioned satin stitch, and may be 
\ised for solid work, or merely for the outer edges of a design. Very often a 
design is cut from paper and pinned on the goods to be embroidered, then 



Fig. 1. 




Embroidery. 



all the goiKls ))ut Iho jwrtioii covered by the patt(;in is -worked with satin 
stiteh, using silks or worsteds of various colors. This is especially effective 
on wall banners or the lambrequins that are used in doorways. 

SATIX STITCH. 

Satin stitch always has been and always will be popular. It is suited 
to embroidery silks, zephyr=!, crewels, etc., aud is al'^o much used for em- 




broidery on muslin or linen. It is useful in working monograms or initial 
lettir^. and for the leaves and petals of flowers. It is an over and over 
stitch, and appears the same on both sides. Great 
care must be taken that the edges are even all 
aroimd or the effect will not be. gi-atifying. In 
Fig. 4 an illustration of satin stitch is given where 
a raised effect is sought for. The petals of the 
flower were firet filled in with long-and-short stitch, 
aud then worked -^Nith the satin stitch. When a 
Fig. 4. flat appearance is desired, as in Fig. ;">, the 

xuider work is omitted. 




Home Decorative Work. 




BUTTONHOLE STITCH. 
Next to Kensington outline stitch, the most common stitch in em- 
broidery is tile huttuuhule stitch, which, in its every-day form, should be 

knoAvn to the merest school girl. It is 
adapted to a great many uses by the ingen- 
ious needle-woman, and is subject to many 
modifications. Sometimes in working leaves, 
the stitches are taken lar apart, from the 
center of the leaf to 
the outer edge, in 
such a way as to 
form the outline and 
the \eins at the same 
time. 



Fig. 5. 

The honeycomb stitch, represented in Fig. 7, 
which is so highly prized for filling in the spaces of 
a background, is simply one of the modifications of 
the buttonhole stitch. 

Very pretty work is done by outlining designs 
with a cord buttonholed down with wash silk as 
shown in Fig. 8. This work is very much prettier 
when difterent stitches are combined Avith the but- 
tonhole and coi'd stitch. 

KNOT STITCH. fZ'^ „ 

This is used principally in making ends of stamens, and the centers of 
floAvers. To work it, tlie needle and silk must first be pulled through to 





HiiiBillilii 

Fi<i. 7. Fig. 8. 

the front of the doth exactly where the knot is to be; then the silk is hold 
down with the thumb of the left hand, and the needle twisted two or thiee 



Embroidery. 



9 



times, according to the size of the knot required, through that part of the 
silk Avliich is tightened by the thumb. The ueedle is then turned quite 
around toward the left and thrust through the material at nearly the same 
point where it was brought \ip. The knots may be connected by a plain 
over-stitch, or the thread may be carried ou the under side of the work to 
the point where the next knot is to be. 





Fig. 9. Fig. 10. 

Very pretty work is made by a combination of the knot and Kensinston 
outline stitches, as is shoAvn in Fig. 10. A handsome drape for a mantel 
may be made of inferior goods by working on it a design in satin stitch, and 
covering all the rest of the goods Avith the above coml)iuation of stitches in 
pretty contrasting colors. 

DOT STITCH. 

The dot stitch and knot stitch are sometimes confounded by beginners. 
The former is simply a very short stitch, worked 
like back-stitch, except that the needle is not put 
back to the place from which it was drawn out, 
but an interval of about the length of the stitch 
remains un worked. In the monogram, Fig. 11, 
I dot, cording and satin stitches are all shown. 

HEKKING-BOXE STITCH. 

This stitch is almost too Avell known to need 
description. It comes effectively into some kinds 
of embroidery and when worked lesembles the 
letter '' x " placed in continuous lines. The gi-eat 
point is to Avork in even, parallel lines. Put the 
needle in from right to left at the bottom line, take up a few threads, and 
draw out the needle quite straight with the jilace you put it in. Then at 
an angle work another stitch in the same w^aj'^ at the upper line, keeping 
your thread over the little finger of the right hand. That is the old-fa.sh- 
ioned herring-bone stitch Avhich has gained for itself a place in Webster's 




10 



Ho.^iE Decorative Work. 



dictionary, and ■which is shown in the npper part of Fig. 12. The lower 
part shows the Italian stitch, which is used on any kind of goods where the 

threads can be divided into squares. 



K 



:kkk<a 



2"~x X'^'nAA 



^ 




ITi 



:< %' 



To-day there are a number of teachers 
of needlework who, if asked for a 
sample of the heiTiug-bone stitch, will 
slio\v you something entirely differ- 
ent. The three cuts given below are 
' very good representations of some of 

Fig. 12. tlie stitches that are now called by 

that name. The illustrations show so clearly the method of working them, 
that no lurthcr description is necessary. They are easily done, and are 






im^i 'cx^? 





Fig. 14. 



Fig. 16, 



Fig. 13. 

adapted to a wide range of work. They are especially useful in taking the 
place of the unsightly ridge made by a fell, for joining seams, and for orna- 
mentation above hems in children's garments; thejs also make a \ery good 
api)earance in tidies, throws, and portieres. 

FEATHER OR CORAL STITCH. 
This is another modification ol 
the herring-bone stitch, as will b( 
observed by closely examining tlit 
work in the center of Fig. 16. 'l\t 
work it, make a knot and draw the 
silk through the doth; hold the silk Fi«- ^^• 

down with the thumb, keeping it toward the right hand. Put the needle in 
about an eighth of an inch from where the silk is drawn through, take a 




Embkoideky 



11 




Fig. 17. 



stitcli slautiug downward toward tlie left aliout an eighth of an inch in 
length, and diaw the silk uj). For the next stitch, the thread must be 
turned completely around toward tlie left, and 
the stitch must l)e taken slanting toward the 
right. These two stitches are re])eated alter- 
nately. This stitch is worked in two colors with 
very i)retty efifect. Another well known moditi- 
catiou of it is given in Fig. 17. 
BRIER STITCH. 
This is the herring-hone stitch made more 
ela])orate by two or three buttonhole catches of 
medium length on alternate sides of a long diag- 
onal connecting stitch. It may be -worked in 
numberless patterns, ac( ording to the fancy of 
the ingenious mind, which, once having learned 
to do it well in its simplest form as here given, 
need never be in want of a pattern of something 
new. Fig. 18 shows a pretty modification of the 
brier stitch which is known as the crow's-foot 
stitch, and is often worked with a cluster of ti\e 
instead of three stitches. To work i1. make a 
long, straight stitch from a given point, bring the needle f ~ ' ^ 
back beneath, and insert it upward at the same point. Tlieu - 

take a shorter separate stitch first to the right, afterward to 
the left. Fig. 19 shows another elaboration of the brier 
stitrli wIM, is used quite extensively in crazy patchwork, 
"^ fl ^"*^ '"^^^ ^^ opening the 
'J seams of flannel. 

I51Rl)"S-EYE STITCH. 

One of the most conven- 
ient stitches knoAvn in em- 
broidery is the bird's-eye 
stitch which is shown In 
Fig. 20. It is often used 
for daisies or asters or sim- 
ilar flowers, Avhere each 
1 letal may be formed of a 
single stitch, which must, 
of course, be varied in 
length to suit the flower to 
be represented. It is most often used in connection with outline embroidery, 
and in Avorking conventional designs it is almost indispensable. 





Fig. is. 



' ,„ J 

Fig. isj. 



12 



Home Decorative Work. 



CHAIX STITCH. 

stitch is less popular than it has been, but is still used enough to 

To ^\"|i 1 n ' ' a knot, draw the silk through the 

giH material, hold it down with 




lower 
throni 
to be 



part 

.h. 

seen 



the thumb, work a short stitch 
in a straight line, and draw it 
up. For the next stitch, con- 
tinue to hold the silk down as 
described for the first stitch, 
put the needle through the 
of the last stitch, make a stitch of the same length, and draw 
In Fig. 21 the outline work is all done in chain stitch. It used 
in applif|ue embroidery, but is now seldom used for that purpose. 



O .O <e6» 43* O «*r «! 



Fig. 20. 




Fig. 21. 



COTTHIXC; STITCH. 



This stitch is now more often used in finishing the edges of applique 
designs. It is also useful in covering joins, and as boundary lines lor bor- 
ders. It consists of a strand of cord, or of several strands of silk or wool 
laid together and caught down by stitches of the same-or some other material 
at equal distances. In Fig. 22 the miarmer of working it is very plainly 
shown. F'ig. 23 gives some idea of the effect when used for applique 



Embroidery. 



13 



eiuhrdidcrv. Gold, silver or tinsf. cord makes v(>rv bt'autiriil work al- 
though somewhat expensive. If pliable threads, such as tiloselle or crewel 





Fig. 22. 



Fig. 28. 



are used, they should be lield loosely as they are sewed down, so that they 
will puft'out a little between the couching stitches; but with couching cord 
it should be held as closely to the outline as possible. 



foi)I)p:r stitch. 




The fodder stitch is of southern origin, and is adapted to a number of 
uses; indeed, ladies are just beginning to find out how useful it may be 
made. It is said that from the fodder stitch sprang all the stitches known 
in drawn work. It derives it name from 
its peculiar appearance as will be .seen by 
exa?nining the illustration. It is so sim- 
ple that the merest beginner in fancy 
work can do it, and the results are highly 
gratifying. It is especiallj^ pretty for Fig. 24. 

border work or where a space is to be filled in between other designs. Par- 
allel lines are first worked on the cloth in outline stitch, then long stitches 
are taken from one line to the other with the threads lying close together, 
showing, on the wrong side, only where they are caught' into the cloth. 
Then the work is gone over and the threads are gathered into dustere and 
firmly Ihstened either with a plain, or knot stitch. All sorts of designs are 
thus formed, any pattern used in drawn work being u.seful here. In the 
miscellaneous department .several pretty patterns may be found. 



14 



Home DECOKAxn e AVork. 



This work must be done -with silk or wool that contrasts prettily witli 
the foundation, or it will not be effective. The fodder stitch with its varia- 
tions, is the prettiest stitch, by far, for crazy patchwork. It is also very 
much used in place of drawn work, and as insertions in uniting strips of 
tucking or embroidery. The pieces of goods to be united should first be 
basted smoothly and firmly to a strip of paper, leaving a space as wide da 
the finished insertion is to be; then work in the threads, being careful to 
have them of eciual length so that the work may l)e smooth; then go over 
it again, and fill in the design. Use short strips of paper, for if you try to 
work too long a piece at a time, the paper -will tear, causing much annoyance. 

t'ROSS STITCPr. 

This stitch is so easily learned that the merest child can do it. It is 
used for many purjioses, and can be executed on any material to suit the 
fancy. Fig. 25 shows so plainly the manner of Avorking it that no further 




Fig. 25. 

directions are necessary. Handsome screens and chair backs are made of 
canvas worked solidly with cross stitch in wools. If a cross stitch design is 
to be worked on silk or velvet or any material in which the threads do not 
show plainly, it may be done by first basting on a piece of canvas, then 
drawing out the threads when the design is worked. Fig. 26 is a pretty 
design for a tidy in cross stitch on Java canvas with rope silk. We do not 
give more designs as they have now Ijecome so common that handsome de- 
signs can be purchased lor a trifle at any store where fancy work materials 
are sold. 



Embroidery. 



15 



*^? 75 Wpr 



W^ '^iWdk^. 







^- T\'U^ 






j-il^fi^^f 










Fig. 26. 

Following are other fancy stitclu-s s:i simple that they may be easily 
worked from the design. 




Fig. 27. 




16 



Home Decorative Work. 





Fig. 29. 



Fig. 30. 





Fig- 31. 



Fig. 32. 






Fig. 33. 



Fio. 34. 



Fig. 35. 




Fio. .".o. 



Fio. 37. 



Embkdidkuv. 



17 




Fig. 38. 




Fig. :!!>. 




Fi(i. -to. 




Fig. 41. 




Fk;. 4.1. 




Fic. r.i. 




Fk;. 44 



h 4 





Fig. u 



18 



Home Dkccjkative \\'okk. 



Varieties of Embroidery. 



KOMAN EMBKOIDKKY. 



The diiferent kinds of embroidery preferred at present are mostly exe- 
cuted on linen or some material that can be washed, if necessary, lioman 
embroidery is highest in favor, jnst now. It is worked, on whit/e or natural 




Fig. 4.C,. 

colored linen with wash silk either white or brown. The pattern is outlined 
in a rather open buttonhole stitch, and the spaces between are worked in 
twisted bars as indicated ])y the pattern. These spaces are then cut away, 
leaving the twisted l)ars to hold the pattern together. The edge is always 



K.AimtolDKKY. 19' 

soalloped. SometiiiK s a coiK-hinji; (oid is laid on ail the edges, and a button- 
hole stitch done over that. Roman embroidery is not confined to linen 
alone, but can be used to advantage on felt, sateen, etc., and is very pretty 
on fancy aprons, or for flounces for children's dresses. Fig. 40 shows a 
corner of an unbleached linen table sprea<l, worked in brown wash silk. 

SKELETOX EMBROinERV. 

Skeleton embroidery, sometimes called "tipning, "' is used extensively 
on almost every kind of material. The patterns are stamped in very bold 
designs, usually conventional, and worked in rope silk. The stem and 
scroll work are done in outline stitch, while the tips of the flowers and leaves 
are worked in the irregular satin stitch called " long-and-short." A mater- 
ial much in use for table covers, sola pillows, Ijcd-spreads, sideboard covers, 
etc., is called Bolton sheeting. It is found in both linen and cotton, is two 
yards in width, and is usually white, thoirgh a few of the art shades are 
now shown, such as Gobelin blue, mahogany, and sage green. The white is 
used for bed-spreads, and is handsome emljroidered in rope silk or rope 
linen. It is also very effective as curtains and sideboard cov^ers. Both the 
white and colored are used for table covers, but the colored is used almost 
entirely lor portieres, soAx pillows and similar articles. Bolton sheeting also 
comes in all wool a yard and a half in width, and makes v^ery pretty table 
covers for parlor or dining room. An extremely pretty one w^as made of a 
dark Gobelin blue with a border sho^ving a bold conventional design worked 
with rope silk in five shades of maize brown. Another of mahogany was 
wt)rkcd in five shades of the same color. 

EMBKOIDEKY ON TABLE I.IXEX. 

There is a great deal of embroidery being done for the table noAv. 
Napkins and tablecloths have the initial or monogram in raised emljroidery 
as betore, but there are numerous tray cloths worked either in Ixomau em- 
broidery or skeleton work on fine linen with white silk. Bright colors are 
seldom used on the table, except, perhaps, a fine outlining of gold around 
the white skeleton work. This is done with a single thread of filo-floss. 
The lunch cloths used for five o'clock tea are always hand embroidered, 
sometimes in graceful wreaths of flowers in the natural colors, but more 
often in a conventional design in white, with a fine outlining of some deli- 
cate shade, or the wash gold embroidery thread. 

There are four grades of silk used in this work: rope silk, a \evy heavy, 
rather loosely twisted variety; twisted embroidery silk, which is a little 
heavier and mon^ firmly twisted than the ordinary embroidery silk; outline 
embroidery silk which is similar to the twisted embroideiy silk, liut much 
finer; and filo-floss which is similar to filling silk, consisting of a thread 
composed of six strands, which can be useil together or separately as desired. 
These silks are all warranted to wash Avell, and have been on the market 
l<mg enough ti» be tested thoroughly. 



20 Home Dkcokatia e AVokk. 

KEXSIXCITOX KMI'.UOIDKKY. 

Kciisiiijitoii ciultroiderv, or ■■ lu-edU'Work ]):iiutiug-, " as it is aptly ile- 
.scrilied, is always beautiful and new. It uiay be "worked -with a variety of 
materials. Chenille is suitable for tine work on slipjiers, suspenders, shop- 
ping bags, etc., or filling silk, which comes much cheaper, may be used. I?or 
larger articles such as sofa pillows, chair backs, .screens, etc., rope silk is 
very appropriate. It comes in every shade that could be wished, and is 
heavy enough for plnsli. 

INITIALS AXI> MONIXiKAMS. 

Ihiihroideriug initials on table and house linen is Aery much in vogue 
at ])rcsent. The work is done in the I'-rcnch style, raised very high, and is 
both handsome and durable. Tablecloths, na]ikins, sheets and i)illow-cases 
are worked with the initials of the lady, either separately or in a graceful 
monogram. These initials are worked s(xuarely in the corner of tlu> nap- 
kins, instead of cornerwise as they used to be. Tablecloths are marked in 
the middle of each end, or the letters are arranged in the center of the cloth 
so that they can be read from each side when it is spread on the table. 
Sheets have the letters Avorked just aboAc the upper hem so that when the 
sheet is turned back oAcr the spread they can l)e easily read. Pillowcases 
are stamped just above the hem, and towels above the border on the side, 
so that when they are folded into quai'ter size, the letters may be plainly 
seen. The size of the letters for sheets, tablecloths and toAvels should be five 
or six inches; for uajikius and pilloAv -cases, three or tour inches. These are 
all Avorked with French embroidery cotton, filled in very high with minuit 
cotton. The filling is done by Avorking lengthwise of the letter in outline 
.stitch, tAA'O or three tinu-s over, keeping the stitches well toAvard the center 
of the space that is being filled in. This makes a firm foundation lor the 
satin stitch, Avhicli is then Avorked crossAvise as closely as possible. These 
letters giAe a very handsome appearance to linen. 

VrPLIQIK KAIKKOIDEKY. 

Ap]ili(xuc cnibi'oidci-y. though not sti ])Oi)ular as it Avas a lew years ago, 
is still used enough to merit descrii)ti<iii. The louudation lor it is usually 
plush or velvet, though felt and heaA y cloth are also used to advantage. 
Ai'abcs(|ue designs are mostly used for applique Avork. Unless the founda- 
tion is very firm it will re(iuire lining, and this is eftected by pasting Vmvn 
at the back, taking care n()t to Avct the juaterial too nuu-h. The design to 
be a])plicd must be traced, then cut Avith scrissors and pasted to the founda- 
tion, which should also be traced roughly for the different parts to be fitted 
to. "When thus applied it must be alloAved to dry. The foundation i.s best 
yiut into a frame, or it must be held down very firmly by weights in (uxler 
to kec)> it (|uil<' flat Avhilc tlie appli(|ue is drying. The paste to be used for 



I^MliUOlDKlJV 



21 



the ])nviH)Sf is iiuuU' as Ibllows: To Ihice tiiblcspooutuls ol' Hour allow half a 
li'aspoonl'ul of powdered resin, mix smoothly with luilf a pint of cold water, 
let it boil live minutes, stirrinu; all the time; if Ihc ]»aste is to be kej)t some 

lime, it will be found 
advisabli' to add a tea- 
s])oonful of essence of 
cloves to it wliile it is 
boiling. Fig. 47 shows 
AX'lvet a]3i)lique on a silk 
foundation, with the 
edge Avorked over in 
chain, stitch. That was 
the most favored stitch 
when applique embroid- 
ery first came into \ise, 
but now, though various 
(■ml)roidery stitches are 
iinployed, the couching 
stitch is by far the most 
l)opular. A verj'^ pretty 
effect is obtained by 
edging the applique design with a line of rich cord couched over a d(mble 
line of chain stitches. One of the ]»retticst stitches for applique embroiderj^ 
is called the picot edge iFig. -iSi. It is worked Avith line gold or silver 
thread, which can easily ])e twisti-d into picots as its stiffness allows them to 
retain their form. Two strands of the cord are sewed down with a third 
s1ran<l ol" the same. 




Fig. 47. 



(IT OK j'l.isii i:>ri!K(iii)!;i;v. 



feather, and similar 



l>y its tx-;e sumach, cockscomb, golden rod, ])rince:^ 
flowers, which \\ere 
previously very imiur- 
fectly represented by a 
bunch of knot stitches. 
are clo.sely imitated in 
texture as well as color- 
ing. To make it, first 

fill in the flower with ^'^- •*•'^• 

large knot stitches ol' the prevailing color: then I using liuttonhole twist i bring 
tlic needle up Ix-tweeu the knots, lay a double strand of filling silk on the 
face of the work against the needle; take the needle down in about the siune 
jJaie it came up. but from the other side of the filling silk, so that when 
di'awn down tlie stitcli lias caimht the lilliuL; silk about one-fourth ofau inch 




2^ 



Home Decokath e AVt)KK. 



from its (11(1: dnuv llic slitcli (Lnvii ti«;litly. which will cause the cmls of the 
filling silk to sin-ing straioht up; clip thcin off with a very sharp pair of 

scissoi's. This coiiijiletcs one 
stitch. ]?ei>eat for as many 
stitches as are required to cover 
or nearh' cover the knots. It is 
not easily described, hut with a 
little practice is easily and rap- 
idly done; and Avith taste and 
judgment in the clipping, and iu 
thenuml)er of stitches used, so as 
to partly, not completely, cover 
the background of knots, good 
effects are produced. Make cocks- 
comb a rich, velvetv crimson. 




AKK.VSICXK E.Ml!K()ri)P;iiY. 



Fio. 49. 



We strongly recommcud arras- 
ene to the attention of our readers for its extreme beauty, as well as for 
its novelty and durability. We give a few hints on tlie working of arraseiie, 
which we trust will be found useful and pleasing. The design must first be 
traced \ipou the material to be worked upon in the same way as for crewel 
or silk embroidery. 

Arrasene may be worked on plush, velAet, cloth, Utrecht a elvet, satin, 
l^oman satin, Java canvas or crash. If on furniture-satin, it will not be 
necessary to line it; if thin satin is used, a lining of muslin, thin linen, or 
some material of the kind will be needed. Arrasene may be worked either 
in the hand or in a frame. If the piece of work is large, or the foundation 
is satin, a frame is convenient to jn-event the work from puckering or 
shrinking, but there is no fear of that with a small piece of w'ork. The 
needle used for working should l)e Avhat is called a chenille needle; it is like 
a Berlin-wool needle, with one exception — it has a sharp point; it must have 
a very large eye. Wool and silk arrasene are used separately or together; 
the silk relicAes and brightens the wool very much in the same -way as 
filoselle, or filo-floss as it is also called, is used to impi-ove Berlin-wool work. 
The stitch mostly employed in arrasene is the same as cording stitch, but it 
is worked rather longer. The arrasene should be twisted in workitig. A.-4 
before mcnti<med, it is not well to u.se a very long needleful of arrasene, as 
it becomes somewhat impoverished in working Avhen used too long; it rc- 
(juires to be drawn steadily through the material, so as to prevent roughen- 
ing it too mucli. When the work is finished, a soft brush may be used to 
raise the pile and e(|ualize the surface. M'lierc a stitcli of th(^ arrasene does 



Kmbiioidkuy. 



23 



not quite liiU in its place witli other stitelies. ])ut the needle under it, and 
•live it one twist, which will sonu^tinies greatly improve the work. 



HIUHO.V WOHK. 

This work is of Uvo kinds, the one being done in very fine, narrow 
riblKjn, combined with embroidery in silk, and the other with wider ribbon 
together w ith arrasene or crewel embroider}'. This work can l)e done with 
but little instruction other than that required to do embroiderv in the Ken- 
sington style. When the principle of shading is once acquired, the stitches 
are easily learned; then taste, ingenuitj' and practice Avill master that, as well 

as all .styles of art embroidery. Ribbon 
work is rapidly executed and mucli 
admired for home decoration. The fine 
ribbon is used for the smaller fiowers, 
as the wild aster, forget-iue-nots, i^an- 
sies, violets, snowballs, etc., the stems 
and foliage being done in embroidery 
of silk or filoselle. The centers of these 
flowers are worked in one or more French 
knots. Then thread a worsted or other 
large-ejed needle with the ribbon, and 
take one stitch from the center to the 
edge of the petal; smooth the riblx)n 
out flat with a stiletto before it is puUed 
<^uite down, and be careful not to draw 
it down too tight or your work will 




Fig. go. 



pucker. AVork the stems of the flowers, where they show, in stem stitch 
with Inown and green silks, and foliage in Kensington or crewel embroid- 
ery. Continue working tlie petals just as if the needle were threaded with 
crewel or arrasene. The larger ribbon work is done by cutting pieces twice 
the size and in tlie form of the petal you desire to make; run a thread around 
the edge, draw uji, and as it gathers turn under so as to form the exact 
shape of your petal. Stitch the gathers to keep it in form, then blind stitch 
to your pattern. Should your pattern l)e roses, select two or three difl'erent 
shades of ribbon, placing the deepest colors nearest the center, which is to be 
filled in with French knots of j'ellow silk. Embroider buds, stems and gi'een 
leaves. Buds should liave a tiny fold of ribbon beneath the embroidery, al- 
lowing it to " peep through ' ' where the bud first begins to burst. Of coui-se, 
I am presuming that the inquirer knows the different stitches used in the 
embroidery, also that she lias stamping patterns or can draw her design to 
be worked. The materials used for decorating in this way are satin, felt, 
1)1 ush or velvet. 



24 



Home Decorative Wokk. 



A few desigus are here given tliat are suitable either for ribbon work, or 
for raised emljroidery in natural colore. 




Fig. 51. 




Fui. .^2. 



Embkoidery. 



25 




Fig. 53. 




Fig. 54. 




illG 55. 



20 



Home DECul:ATl^E Wokk. 



Uses for Embroidery. 



A THREK-FULI) SCKEKX. 

A three-fold screen admits of a great deal of va'riety in material, though 
the background should always he of light weight goods. A new material 
called "art satin" is very popular just now, and is really the most suitable 
tor the purpose. It is a firm, though light, material, having the finish but 
not the lustre of satin. Almost all embroidery materials can be used on it 
with advantage, and look well. It comes in all the new shades that make 




Fig. 50. 

such excellent neutral backgrounds for colors. For a three-fold screen one 
panel might be of dull sixge green with a clump of ferns Avorked at the 
bottom, and a graceful spray of woodbine trailing in from one side. The 
second panel should be of Gobelin blue with a few tall hollyhocks worked in 
pink and yellow, and leaves and stems of shades of olive green. The third 
panel should be of chamois color, with a conventional design Avorked in lour 
or five shades of bright maize brown. If the screen is to be decorated by 
painting, A^elveteen would make a good background. Plush is too heavy to 
be of use unless it is put on for a narrow 1)order. 



Ejvibkoideky. 27 

covicu roi; i-fxtr-UKST. 

'I'Ikic is 11(1 luoR- (liiiabk' cover for a foot-rest than one made of a liood 
<juality of i)lusli. Select the twenty-four inch plush, and embroider it in 
autumn leaves with filoselle and floss. Crimson is a prettj^ color for the 
plush. The leares should he of natural size, and three in number, placed 
near the center, carelessly, as if they had been strewn there. The stems 
should all iK)int in different directions. Shade the smallest leaf from a deli- 
cate cream to a bright olive; the medium sized from a silver to a dark sage 
green; and the largest from a canary to a dark olive. Thirty shades are 
required for the tliree leaves — ten for each. The lightest shades arc used on 
the round parts of the leaves, and the darkest on the opj^Kisite sides, thus 
forming distinct outlines at the midribs. If the work is carefully done no 
veiniug is required; in fact, veins are out of place on such leaves, for tlie 
.shading, when properly done, makes them unnecessary. To select tlie 
proper shades, choose, first, the cream, silver and canary floss, then add nine 
shades to each of filoselle, blending them very carefully. Purchase a few 
skeins of floss of exactly the darkest shade of the filoselle, to use on the edges 
of the dark portions of the leaves. If one must order, instead, of select, the 
best way is to state that so many shades of cream floss are wanted Avith nine 
.shades of filoselle blending from cream to olive, ordering the other colors in 
the sjime way. In order to have the two olives of a dift'erent tone, choose 
one set of the shades of a light olive and one of a medium. The floss is used 
only on the edges of the leaves, remember; all the rest must be of filoselle. 
Tlie stitches in floss must he taken very cAenly over the edge, but unevenly 
on the inside, so the floss and filoselle will blend nicely. The stitches near 
the midribs must be taken evenly and with the gi-eatest of care, since the 
Least mistake where the dark and light shades come together, will be very 
noticeable. All the other stitches are taken irregularly, and when well done 
it is almost imijossible to tell where one shade ends and another begins. 
This work will need to be pressed when finished, for the plush is quite ajit 
to become drawn when so many shades are used. To press it, lay it on a 
block about the size of the leaves, Avell covered with very .soft goods, and use 
an iron so small that it need not totich any of the plush around the leaves. 
The same design can also be utilized for other purjioses. 

WII.I) KUSE DESIGN IN' I'lA.SH AXD ARKASEXK. 

For a design showing two full roses and a half blown one, about a (luai- 
ter of a yard of plush is required. The color may be pink or bufi", one being 
equally as pretty as the other. From the plush cut thirty petals, these 
petals to be the shape of those of the natural rose, only broader at the liase, 
and larger. Turn e\ery two together, plush side in, and sew all around 
except at the base; fi\e of these double petals are required for each ro.se, the 
half-blown onw taking as niuuv as those lull blown. After the petals are 



28 Home Decokati\ i: A\'oi;k. 

sewed ami turned, uather five of them tooetlier by riinninn a tlin-ad throtigh 
the base of eacli and drawing them to one center; sew them tirmly to the 
center of the full blown rose on the stamped design. Now, with a long 
thread, begin at the lower left-hand side of one of the petals, and run the 
needle up the seam and round the petal, taking small and invisible stitches; 
go on around each petal in this way until you reach your starting }ioi.'it, 
holding each petal slightly full so that they will curve up in a natural 
manner. Tack them to the groundwork here and there with invisible 
stitches, to hold them in place. 

The center is done in satin stitch, using No. 2 chenille ol" a ])ea-grcen 
color. Arrasene will do, if chenille is not handy. The right size for this 
is 201 or 202. The seeds are made of orange floss in the French knot. The 
sei'ds are most effective when placed a short distance from the chenille cen- 
ter and at regular distances apart. 

The half-blown rose is gathered like the others and is seeded, but is 
crushed so that the seeds scarcely show. The buds are made of scraps and 
do not take much sewing down, as the moss will hold them to their ijroper 
place. Xow we are ready for the arrasene, which is really beautiful ^^ hen 
properly put in. The shades used ibr this design are as follows: 200, 201, 
202] and 202c. The last three are used on the leaves and tlic fust on tlie 
buds lor high lights. 

Use 201 on the round or ujiper sides of the leaves, the medium next, 
and the dark at the center. On the edge of the lower side of the leaf, begin 
with the dark, then put in the medium, and last the light. This Avill cause 
the dark and the light to meet at the center, making it distinct. In com- 
mencing the leaf, begin at the point Avith the light shade. After the three 
shatles are filled in, begin with the daik shade at the base olthe lower side — 
never vary from this rule. ' Slant all stitches in the direction of the veining. 

When the leaves are finished, " moss " the half rose and buds, and make 
the stems. No. 200 is used at the top of tlie 1juds and half-rose, shading 
down to the dark. The blending should be carefully done, as in tliis lies tlie 
beauty of the work. Tlie stems should l)e of the dark shade touched by high 
lights where the light Avould be su]i))os<'(l to tail. Be careful not to draw 
the woik. as it can not !«> jiressed. 

WILD UOSKS OF KIHllOX. 

"Wild roses are easily inaih' of riblion, and are very ornamental. They 
are used to good advantage on the ends ol' ta))le scarfs, and draperies of that 
sort. Window lambrequins cut in points and bimlered with these are very 
prelty. The best shade to use is a bulf tint, such as comes in the highest 
light in the olive green arrasenes. It is not so common as pink, and pro- 
duces a more natural effect. The best ltackgn)und Ibr this is olive. To 
make the roses cut No. J) riltbon in .strips a little hmger than the stamped 



Embkoidekv. 29 

])etals. Sew :i strip of tlic liliboii to the point ol" a petal, turning it back 
and ioldiufj; it in little pleats. After sewing it in place, turn it o\ertind 
tack the other side to the center of the rose, pleating this end also. When 
all the petals are covered, arrange the ribbon so a« to form rather round 
l)etals by turning the edges in and tacking here and there to hold each petal 
in its proper lilacc. The rose is to be shaped by the arrangement of the 
petals. The center is concealed by a covering of No. 2 chenille, which is 
also put in to help Ibrm the shape of the rose. Some wild roses are a little 
lopger one way than the other, while others are perfectly round. The s(-eds 
are applied in the same way as on the plush roses, being at regular distances 
apart, and a short distance from the pea green center. Seeds on buff i-oses 
should l)e of a gi'cenish yellow floss to produce the prettiest ettect, but on 
pink roses, orange is usually preferred. The leaves are of arrasene in three 
suades. The lightest shade is used on the round side of the leaf, the dark 
olive fin the opposite side, and the medium shade between. The buds are 
made by folding scra[)s of silk and mossing them with arrasene. The half 
blown roses are composed of three petals only, which are sewed flat like 
those on the full blown roses, but are not seeded. The mossing is used on 
the half blown roses, and is not difficult to do after a little practice. The 
stems are done in outline stitcli. touched here and there by the high lights. 
This design is very effective. 

SXOWHAhl.S IX ru'SH. 

Snowballs are perhaps showier than any otlier flower used in embroidery, 
and they are the most easily made, although no one would think so from 
seeing them finished. Those made of jilush are much prettier than those of 
ribboseue or arrasene. The petals can be purchased ready cut, or one may 
cut them at home. To cut them, fold the plush or silk (the latter wdll do) in 
a s(^uare four double, and cut the shape of the petals, leading them joined 
at the center. You really fold the goods j ust as you would for papier roses, 
only one time less^ that is, folding twice instead of three times. 

After your design is stamped and dry and you have the leaves done 
nicely in arrasene (this iiart is described later), you are ready to build your 
lialls. To do this, apply a wad of cotton to each ball, as stamped, tack it 
down, rounding it nicely, and cover this with white velvet, silk, or white 
telt. Have the ball built out somewhat, but not too much; when each ball 
is covered with the white goods, sew each petal, or four petals, to their 
l)laces, filling the center with a French knot made of pea green arrasene or 
chenille. The balls look better across the room when the eentei"s are promi- 
nent, and this is A\hy arrasene is used instead of filoselle. 

SNOWBALL, LEAVES IX AERASEXE. 
In order to execute perfect work in arrasene, three points must l)e ob- 
served anil followed. 



30 Home Dkcokative Work. 

First, securing the proper shades of a certain set of colors, so as to have 
thfl»n blend i)erfectly and yet not reciuiro too many shades; for arrasene, to 
be beautiful, must not be crowded. Second, a correct knowledge ot where to 
use these shades; for each has a certain place and must go noAvhere else. 
Third, the twisting of the arrasene so as to form a pretty curl before putting- 
it in: it must not be twi.sted too much nor allowed to get straight, but mlast 
be kept all of the time Avhile Avorking in a pretty curl. 

The arrascue used, if of olive greens, is as folloAvs: Nos. 200, 202, 202a, 
and 2()2c. If you prefer bright greens, the .shades are as follows: Nos. 2G9, 
270, 271, and 273. You should have an'asene needles, which are coarse a«d 
have large eyes that will not wear the thread. 

Having your needle threaded with the lightest shade, knot the thread 
and ])riug the needle up on the right side of the leaf over the point. This 
shade must be used on the round side of all of the leaves. It is what is 
called a ' ' high light ' ' and is thus used where the light is supposed to fall 
directly. The stitches on the right side ofthe goods are long and those on the 
other side short. If this point is attended to, there will be a great saving of 
material. The stitches should not l)e too regular, but not so irregular as 
those used in blending into the outer row. In taking the long stitch, the 
needle should lie placed just uwr the outside line, then the thread brought 
up on the right side a very short distance from the last stitch, and carried 
back toward the center, then back and o\-er again, and so on until the round 
side of the leaf is edged Avith this shade. These stitches should be taken 
close enough to cover the edge so that no stamping can be seen. The second 
shade is next put in, with very irregular stitches; but be very careful not to 
cross any threads. In carrying the thread, up, place the point of the needle 
between two up])er threads, not too high up, and slant the stitches in the 
direction of the veining. The third shade is put in just the same as the 
second, and the fourth shade finishes the upper or round side of the leaf. 
The fourth shade should produce an even outline which represents the mid- 
rib when the colors are put in on the opposite side of the leaf. The lower 
side of the leaf is commenced with the darkest shade and gradually blended 
into the lightest at the center. li' these directions are properly loUowed, the 
leaves will need no veining, as the lightest and darkest shades meet at the 
center, producing a beautiful, distinct outline; the upper side Avill ha\e the 
sunlight and the lower edge the shadow. 

The stems are done in the outline stitch which is very easy. Use the 
darker shades for these, touching them a little, here and there, witli high 
lights. Never use avooI arrasene; silk is so much prettier, especially to ac- 
company silk or silk plush snowballs. 

POPPIES OF .SILK. 

Soft silk of a rich red color should be selected for poppies. Cut a paper 
pattern of the jietals exactly like the design in size and shape, then cut the 



Embkoidkky. 81 

silk petals a little larger thau the pattern to allow for seams. Cut twice 
the number wanted, as two cut petals are required for one finished petal. 
Hew two together, then turn them. These petals are sewed firmly to the 
center of the poppies, but the edges are allowed to droop or cup up as re- 
quired by the design. They may be tacked at a short distance from the 
center, but never at the outer edge. The center is filled in with black silk 
<*ut to imitate the natural flower, and the seeds are hung on threads from the 
center in a natural manner. The leaves of the poppy are always done in 
sage greens, beginning with siher green and ending with very dark sage. 




Fig. 57. 

Filoselle, or filo-floss as it is also called, is the best material with which to 
work the poppy leaves, as it produces a very natural eftect and is durable. 
This design is iwlapted to a great variety of uses. 



PLUSH STEAWBRKKIES FOR THROW. 

A nice throw for a sideboard is made of tea green silk ornamented with 
plush strawberries. The plush used may be shaded or of a plain, rich red. 
The benies are cut like those on the stamped design, but somewhat larger. 
Two of the pieces are turned together, plush side in, and sewed all around 
except at the base. When turned, stufl' the berry full with cotton, and 
draw up the base where the stenr is to >)e placed. Cover this end with 



32 Home Dkcorativk AVokk. 

chenille of ;i rather dark sage green, extending it up the berry in several 
places in a natural manner, then cover the berry with orange colored seeds 
by taking little short stitches with two strands of filoselle. These seeds 
must start toward the point of the berry, becoming thicker as they meet at 
the point. Before fastening the berries on the throw, the leaves should be 
embroidered in sage gi'cen chenille in three shades, the lightest being of a 
silvery green. The stems are made of wire wound with silk of the same 
shade of green as that used in the berrs', and then inserted into the berry 
and tacked here and there on the stamped stem in the design, to hold the 
ornament in the proper place. This throw is finished with fringe or pend- 
ants, and the plain end is left somewhat longer than the decorated one. If 
shaded plush is used for the berries, the brightest shade should be nearest 
the point. 

SLIPPER PATTERX. 

A handsome slipper pattern shows pansies of natural size embroidered on 
black cloth with floss. The work is done in satin stitch. The floss used for the 
flowers should be tliat which is shaded from very dark blue to almost white, 
and worked in ju.st as it comes, so that some petals will be dark, some light, 
and some mottled. Do not undertake to work them with floss that is not 
shaded, for they will not be satisfactors^ The centers of the pansies are 
filled by a single French knot. The leaves are worked in shaded sage gi-eeus, 
and the stitches are taken over and over. The first stitch should begin at 
the point of the leaf with the lightest shade of the floss. Pansies are very 
appropriate for slippers; they are easily made, durable and very beautiful. 
They can also l)e applied to other uses. 

POXD LILIES. 

These are among the prettiest of all embroidered flowers, and when well 
done, look as natural as the real flower. There are several methods of mak- 
ing them of arrasene ; but the bi'st, according to my idea, is of my own in- 
vention, and is as follows: Choose a design showing the lilies of natural size 
floating on water. Cover the edges of all the petals where white is re- 
(luired with white silk arrasene, by bringing the needle up just over the 
edge, twisting the arrasene and taking back on the inside of the petal. Con- 
tinue this, slanting all stitches in the direction of the base of the petal, until 
all the ])etals are well outlined, then fill in with irregular stitches. Seed 
the lily with orange arrasene, or No. 2 chenille, by working large French 
knots against the back row of petals, filling in toward the base of the lily 
with plenty of seeds. After this, draw the white silk arrasene from the 
point of each petal, on the second row, to the base, in one long twisted 
strand. Continue these long stitches until the second row of petals are 
rounded nicely at the center, causing them to have the appearance of stand- 
ing out. Be very' careful to keep the base of the second row perfect, showing 



KMliKOlDEKV. 33 

lliat thf petals arc turned in difVi-rent Avays. In full blown lilies the lower 
row of petals lie on the water and are all white; but in half-blown lilies the 
lower i)etals show a green under side, and cup up slightly. The leaves are 
more difficult than the blossoms. The leaves start in one direction at the 
stem, and at the point slant in the opijosite direction; it is, therefore, very 
necessary to slant each stitch carefully, and, if necessary, curve it a little. 
The shades used may be sage greens or olives, but if the latter, bright ones 
.should be chosen ; the brown olives are not desirable for anything. About 
four shades Avill be needed. The bright butf is used on the round side of the 
leaf and shaded to dark green at the center; the opposite side is edged Avith 
the darkest shade and blended into the light. If the leaf is represented as 
turned up on the water to show the under side, this is covered A\ith wine 
colored floss and the stitches aie slanted in the direction of the stamping. 
Pond lilies floating on water should not have stems showing. Never pur- 
chase a design showing stems unless the lilies are used as a bouquet. The 
water on which the lilies float is made of various shades of blue floss, which 
is drawn through the cloth so as to form straight lines but of different 
lengths as shown in the design. 

PLUSH SOFA PILLOW. 

The foundation of this elegant pillow ( Fig. 58) is a square tick well stuffed 
with good lively geese feathers. The cover is of garnet plush, the seam being 
concealed with a heavy, handsome cord, and finished with garnet silk pom- 
pons at the corners. The design of pond lilies is made up of ribbon or satin 
work for the flowers and buds, arrasene for the leaves, and filoselle for the 
.stems and veinings of the leaves. If white satin is chosen for the lilies and 
buds, pieces are folded in. the general shape of petals, overlapped in as nat- 
ural a manner as possible, and sewed firmly to the foundation with invisible 
stitches. Of course, the embroidery is all done before the cover is sewed up. 
This side is too handsome for common use; but, if desired, a crochetted or 
drawn-work tidy can be basted to the plain side, if it is intended to make 
the pillow useful as well as ornamental. It must then be turned o\er Ayheu 
it is desired to rest the head upon it. 

SILK THROW. 
A lovely throw is composed of old gold silk embroidered in daisies made 
of chenille and ribbosene. The daisies should stand all around the bottom, 
some drooping one way, some another, and others standing erect. Have no 
set order about the arrangement of them, but let them stand as naturally as 
possible. Make them look as if growing in water matle of silver or of blue 
and silver tinsel thread. To embroider the leaves, begin at the top and 
cover with the high light, bringing this shade well over the sides and slant- 
ing all stitches in the direction of the Itase of the leaf. The second shade 
may come a little lower on the sides of the leaf, and extend up high in the 
3 



34 



Home Decorative A\^)kk. 



center of the top or point. The third and last shade finishes the sides and 
base. Do not attempt to make a midrib, but have all stitches pointing 
toward the base of the leaf, with the darkest extending well np in the center. 
The lightest shade should be of a rich liutf, and the darkest of a rich, bright 
olive; then there should be one or two intermediate shades between. The 
stems are of the darkest shade in outline stitch. The daisies are made by 
drawing the ri])bosene through at the point of each petal, and taking it 
back at the base. Full blown daisies require more than one strand of the 




Fig. C>8, 
ribbosene to give them a full and natural appearance, but all buds and half- 
blown flowers look best with but one strand to a petal. If the ribbosene 
becomes twisted while putting it through the goods, it may be straightened 
by catching the thread at the place where it is drawn through and turned. 
The seeds are worked in the knot stitch of dark wine colored floss. In erect 
daisies, the knots form a very important part in the naturalness of the flower, 
which is supposed to droop all around — the petals on the opposite side not 
being visible. The knot stitches in these must be taken evenly so as to 



Embkoideky. 



35 



rnrve over the top nicely. It is best to make the leaves first, as the ribbo- 
seiie is very delicate and silvery and easily injured. After the flowers are 
entirely finished, the water is matle of the tinsel thread. This is done by 




Fig. 59. 

simply covering all water lines as traced on the satin with the tinsel thread, 
taking long and short stitches as required by the lines. The throw should 
be finished with trimming as near the color of the groundwork as jjossible, 
.so as not to destroy the richness of the eft'ect of the embroidery. Only or- 



3<! Home Decorative Work. 

end of the throw shoukl be embroidered; the otlier end is finished most 
prettily by drawing enough of the threads to make a deep fringe. The em- 
broidered end may also be finished by the fringe, and is quite as pretty as 
when other trimmings are employed. 

pixcrsmox. ,■ 

This pretty design for a pincushion (Fig. 59) is to be worked in silks of 
natural colors on sage green satin. The filled satin stitch is used in combi- 
nation with the Kensington outline and the knot stitch. Finish the edge 
of the cushion with cord or ribbon ruching, and fasten a pretty knot of 
ribl)ori in one corner. 

COVERING FOR FOLDING STOOL. 

Fig. 60 shoA\s a pretty design either for the cover Ibr a folding stool, or a 




Fig. 60. 

scarf for a table. The one represented is comjiosed of three stripes. Tlie 
two outside ones are of deep blue velvet. The middle stripe is of black 
satin embroidered with shades of blue and green. The pointed ends should 
l)e noticed particularly, for it is one of the prettiest of ways of fini.shing a 
table scarf, covering for stool, or the long, lined tidies that grandma finds so 
comlbrtable in cold weather, thrown over the liack of her rocking chair. A 
pretty covering for a stool might be made of satin in three pieces with black 
Aclvet ribbon between. The satin could be arranged in one broad, or two 
narroAv stripes, as desired. A very striking one could be made of satin of a 
bright gold color embroidered with a graceful vine of sprays and leaves in 
black; or the satin might l)c of a quieter shade, and worked with a vine of 
wild roses, daisies or forget-me-nots in their natural colors. The cord that 
hides the seams Avhcre the strii)s are joined should be of a shade that will 
l)lend with the background. 



Embkoidekv 



37 



POND LILY SPLASHEK. 

This may be made of buff or gray linen, butcher's linen, momie cloth, 
or any of the materials used for such pui'poses. Sketch pond lilies, leaves 
and rushes with a pencil, and outline them in stem stitch with difierent col- 
ored Avash-silks or etching cotton. Finish the top ^vith a narrow hem to 
which are sewed small brass rings which hook over tacks on the l)a(k of the 
towel rack. The bottom may be fringed, if preferred. 

MANTEL LAMUKEQllN. 

A handsome mantel lambrequin is made of felt cut in large points. 
Each point is pinked in little scallops, and ornamented with a design of 
pansies and leaves in ribbon work, and a delicate vine in silk. Tlie pausies 
and leaves are grouped near the end of the i)oint, and the vine trails up 




Fig. 61. 

nearly to the top of the lambrequiu. The jwrnsies are cut from velvet; the 
leaves may be either worked in silk, or made of satin or ribboseue The 
colors should be cliosen from the natural flowers and are pretty iu olive 
green felt. Cut a pattern from a flower, then cut the velvet a little larger 
than the pattern. Work with the natural flower beside you, and copy it 
closely. It is not difficult to do, and the result will be very satisfactory. 

SILK BANNER WITH PEACOCK PLUMAGE. 

Single peacock feathers worked iu the natural size are much prettier for 
decorative purposes than the embroidered peacocks, and more easily made. 
For a satin banner choose white, cream, or a delic-ate pink satin of good 



38 



Home DECOKAxnE Work 



quality. Stuini) on it two or three feathers iu a careless position. Have 
some real feathers when you select your materials, so as to be sure to get the 
correct shades. The shades mostly used are dark blue, peacock, bright and 
light green, bronze and gold. The center of each feather, and all lines run- 
ning around the center, are made distinct by the yarious colors in their 




Fig. 62. 

proper places. The stitches are taken over and over, very closely and evenly. 
Tlio remaining jjart of the feathers is done Ijy taking the long and short 
stitches as indicated by the stamping, The ends, at the top, and around the 
sides are touched with very delicate green. The stem is shaded with bronze, 
becoming darker as it widens. The work is all executed in filling silk. If 
Die worker prefers she may use chenille, which is pretty but not easily used 
on the delicate ]H)rt ions of the feathers. The lilliiig silk may be divided as 



Embroidery. 39 

required ami is really 1)etter for the pur^wse tliau any other material. Great 
care is necessary in stamping peacock feathers, for the lines must he very- 
distinct yet very delicate. To stamp them nicely, place the pattern on a 
papci after applj'ing the paint, but lift carefully so as not to get the paint 
spread on the under side. After lifting, place on the satin, press very lightly 
and lift carefully. The paint used in stamping should not be soft. If the 
banner is of white or cream, the rod and trimmings should be of gold, — any 
attempt at other colors will destroy the beauty of the feathers. If the ban- 
ner is of delicate pink, the balls and pendants should exactly match it, and 
the rod should be of a silver tint. By following these directions as to trim- 
mings, the peacock feathers will show to the best advantage. This work will 
press nicely if pressing is required, as is usually the case in order to have 
the banner hang straight. 

Fig. 62 shows a banner with the feathers arranged in oriental style. 
This is becoming quite poi>ular just now, though it is odd rather tlian pretty. 
There is a silk now, woven to represent peacock feathers scattered over 
handsome l)ackgrounds. that is much used for decorative purposes. A pret- 
tier, though more conventional way of arranging the feathers is in a graceful 
group in one corner; or, arrange three feathers in tlie middle of the banner, 
having one slant slightly toward the right, one toward the left, and the third 
broken and hanging down toward the corner. 

EMBEOIDERY OX Ml'SLIX. 

Embroidery on muslin underwear is done Avith French embroidery cot- 
ton, and the same stitches may be used as for colored embroidery. Very 
fine patterns are used. A handsome nightgown has the front of the yoke 
comjx)sed of narrow hand-embroidered insertings alternated with strips of 
very fine tucks. The back of the nightdress is gathered in to the neck and 
shined on a lining to look like a shirred yoke. The sleeves are full with a 
baud of inserting just above the elbow, another band near the wrist, and 
finished Avith a wide cuff edged with lace. Corset covers are trimmed with 
Aery wide insertion, and narrow embroidered edging. When materials for 
stamping are not at liand, the pattern may Ije traced on the muslin with a 
soft lead pencil. The nicest arrangement for this purpose may be made as 
follows: Make a frame somewhat taller tlian a lamp and procure a piece of 
windoAV glass large enough to be placed on it for a cover. Fasten the pattern 
to be traci'd on the glass Avith a little mucilage at the corners, place a Lighted 
lamp under the glass and the pattern may be easily traced either on paper 
or muslin. The AAorker should not attempt open-Avork embroidery on mus- 
lin at fii-st. A pretty design is a plain scallop in buttonhole stitch, each 
scallop ornamented by three small leaves placed to l<x)k like one large leaf. 
A ])ers<)n Avith Aery little ingenuity Avill be aide to secure a pattern by draw- 
ing a ilesign on paper, using a small leaf Avith smooth edges as a copy. Work 



40 



Home Decorative AN^okk. 



the leaves in stitin stitch with a midrib, and the stitches slanting from the 
base of the leaf up toward the center. The stems should all be done in out- 
line stitch. This pattern is pretty for drawers, for a finish to nightgown 
sleeves that are cut from the coat sleeve pattern, and for corset covers. It 
can also be used very effectively on flannel. 







Fig 63. 

75AO TIDY. 



This is made of a new material called coucordia which resembles honey- 
comb canvas. The skeleton work and darning are done in three sha<les of 
jQoahogany rope silk, Tlie heatling is of surah silk in the darkest shade of 
mahogany used in the embroidery. The bag is iillcd Avith cotton well 



ElIBKOlDEKY. 41 

s<ented with sachet powder, and used for a head rest on a liigh-back chair. 
This bag is also used for fancy work, and is hung on the back of a chair 
in the parlor. 

SOFA Pii.r.ovv. 

The same design that is shown in the bag tidy is also worked on con- 
cordia lor a lounge pillow. The two sides, each a half yard square, are 
hemmed separately, and have ej'elet holes worked all around the edges at a 
distance of two inches apart. A puff of satin of mahogany brown is sewed 
around the pillow, then the two sides are laced on with cord. This pattern 
is so simple that the novice in embroidery will have no trouble in Avorking 
it. It is done in outline stitch with knot stitch in the center of the circles, 
and a little of the long and short stitch in the design within the circle. 
The re«t is darning. 

PIANO COVER. 

Square pianos are used so much less now than Ibrmerly that very few 
large covers are made, though there is yet, and will be for some time, a 
moderate demand for them. Felt is the favorite material, as it is very wide 
and comes in all the new shades. A cover for a square piano requires three 
or three and a half yards of felt. It is handsome worked iu a wide, conventional 
border with rope silkj but if one is unwilling to undertake so many yards 
of embroidery, it may be decorated with a few sprays of woodbine, nastur- 
tium, morning-glory, or some other coarse, trailing vine woi'ked Avith arra- 
seue. Some persons object to felt, but the only substitute at all suitable for 
a sijuare piano is billiard cloth. Both of these fabrics are two yards wide, 
and all other material that would suit the purpose at all is only a yard and a 
half in widtli. A cover for an upright piano may be made of art satin, 
wool Bolton sheeting, or any of the new materials, and should alwaj s be 
lined. Some are made to fit the top exactly, others are made to hang over 
the front six inches or more and there embroidered in a jjretty border. The 
corners are cut so that the front and ends may hang separately. The ends 
should be half a yard or more in length, and decorated with a deep border 
or a spray of floAvers. A cover for a horizontal semi-grand piano should be 
made like that for a square piano on the end coming over the key-board, but 
the other end must be cut to exactly fit the piano, and should be embroid- 
ered only in a Iwrder. The colors must be chosen Avith regard to the other 
furnishings of the room, as a piano cover is large and usually iu a prominent 
position. It Avould be safe to .select either mahogany, old blue or sage green 
as these colors are much used at present, and are very duraljle. Thoy are 
also pretty used in combination; for instance, a mahogany cover might be 
worked either Avith old bine or sage green. Fringe is no longer used lor the 
e<lgc, and i)liish drops arc also on the Avane. A very pretty finish is made of 



42 



Home Decorative Work. 



silk tassels wliich cau be bought or made at home, A small brass ring 
CTOchetted over with silk, and having a tassel two and a half or three inches 
long looped in, makes a new and ^ery jtretty ornament. 
A SIMPLE TABLE COVEE. 
Ladies who liave little knowledge of embroidery will 1)e pleased to see 
this design lor a table cover. It is of light blue felt ornamented with a band 




i^^i^Sii^igSii^^^lii^^ 



Fig. 64. 

of olive greeu ribbon, fjistened down on eacli side by A-ariations of the fodder 
stitch described on page 13. The inside row of stitches is worked with 
Itright i)ink silk fastened down with cardinal silk and is called the two-tie. 
Tile outer row is of cardinal silk caught with orange stitches and is called 
the three-tie. Crewels may be used instead of silk, thougli they woidd not 
be so prettjr on a felt foundation. Numberless designs will be suggested to 
the worker by this cut, whereby, with a very limited knowledge of embroid- 
ery, she may make some very pretty fancy work for liersclf. 



Embkoideky. 



43 



(TRTAIXS. 

Veiy pretty curtains auil iM)rtiercs are made of cotton Bolton sheeting 
embroidered Avith linen; or of wool Bolton sheeting worked with rope silk, if 
something quite expensive is desired. If the wool material is used, it must 
he lined. They are worked in an all-over pattern, and great care must he 
used to ha-ve them look neat on the under side. The .skeleton stitch is best 
adapted to this purpose, as it looks about the same on both sides. Large, 
conventional designs, either scattered, or in groups, are good for the purpose, 
and may l)e worked in the same colors as the backgiound, and shaded uj) to 
the lightest tint. A rather dark shade of ecru, or the new shade called 
ihamois Mould look very pretty embroidered in maize bro^\•n of five or six 
shades. A dark mahogany with a full shading of the same color, or a combi- 
nation of mahogany and old blue is well liked. A light shade of sage green 
worked with a new shading of rope silk called "grape " is much admired. 
Curtains are very pretty with a border worked to suit the designs gi'ouped 
over them. 




IParl^ 11. 

KE"ITTING. 

General Directions for the Beginner. 

' HERE has beeu a decided revival of interest in knitting, which had 
threatened to be a lost art, and our girls and women have disco ^■- 
ered how many useful and pretty things for home decoration can be 
made with thread, silk or yarn and knitting needles. There is really no end 
to them, and a great many novel and standard designs for work of this sort 
have found their way into domestic periodicals; but so many letters have 
reaehed us from readers who do not know how to knit, and can not, therefore, 
follow directions, that we have decided to devote space to telling just how 
to do it. It is hoped that the directions will make the matter .so plain that 
all will understand. 

THK KXITXIXa XEEDLES. 

For edgings, cullais and all uarroAV work, short needles are more conven- 
ient and elegant than long ones; an ordinarj' needle cut in two, with bulls 
of sealing-wax on the blunt ends, does nicely. A knitting needle "house- 
wife," made on the plan of those for common needles, the flannel divided 
and numbered for different sizes, from 10 to 24, to roll up and fasten with a 
button, will be found a most useful addition to the knitting basket. The 
knitting gauge and a small piece of very fine sandijajjer for polishing tho 
needles, if rusty, should always be in readiness. The gauge is a disk of 
metal perforated with a series of graduated lioles. Each hole is of a good size 
to atlmit the passage of a certain sized needle, the number of the needle 
being marked near tlie aperture to which it belongs. Thus a needle of 
which one has lost or forgotten the size can be measured very quickly. This 
is an imx)ortant point, as tlie beauty of knitted work depends more upon tho 
use of the proper sized needles than on any other one thing. A patto-.u that 
is designed to be knit with No. 16 needles, and which looks very handsome 
when so worked, may be very ugly and seem another thing altogether if 
made on needles several sizes coarser or liner. Care should always be exer- 
cised, then, to use as nearly as po.ssible the size of needle that is recom- 
mended in directions for any pattern. Tlie same care should be used in the 
selection of materials; for the design which is lovely in soft saxony yarn, 
may be too loose and "scrawly " to be beautiful or useful, if knit in linea 
thread or .silk. 

44 



Knitting. 45 

TO CAST OX STITCH i;s. 

There are several ways to oast on stitches, l>ut the siin]»k-st and most 
.satisfactory method is given here. Make a loop in the thread, place it on a 
noodle and take it in the left hand* take the other needle in youi right hand 
and insert it in this stitch; knit this stitch, i>ntting tlie thread over the 
needle and bringing it through, but instead of slipping off the first stitch, let 
it remain and place the second one beside it on the left-liand needle. Con- 
tinue this process until you have as many stitches as are required on the 
needle. For a stocking, wrister, mitten, etc., the required number of 
stitches is divided and put on three or four needles; the ends are joined and 
the knitting is done round and round the work by a fourth or fifth needle. 
Most edgings, collars, afghans, suspenders, breadtlis of skirts, etc., are knit 
in -what is sometimes called a 'plain veeb,'' back and forth on two needles. 
HOLDIXCr THE WOKK. 

The work must be held in the left hand, tjie needle pressed against the 
side of the hand bj' the third and fourth fingers. The stitches are to be 
kept near the point of the needle by the pressure of the thumb and second 
finger and the first is to be left free to assist in slipping the stitches oft" to 
take, in fact, an active share in the business A A-ery little practice will en- 
able this finger to ascertain niechanically tlie difference between a purled or 
seamed stitch (both words mean the same) and a plain stitch or that of any 
other variety. Indeed, it is principally on the use or neglect of the sense of 
touch in the forefinger of the left hand that the capacity of knitting without 
using the eyes depends. The other needle is held between the thumb and 
first finger of the left hand, and rests on the hand, not nnder it. The 
thread is passed loosely around the little finger, under the second and third 
fingers and over the tip of the forefinger; this arrangement of the thread over 
the fingers acts like that for tension on the sewing machine and keeps the 
tliread at the correct point all the time. If the hands are naturally quite 
dry in texture, it may be necessary, when knitting with silk or linen 
which are slippery threads, 'to A^ind them twice around the little fino-er to 
keep the thread tight enough. A little practice will soon teach one how to 
manage this point, however. The needle is to be held as near the point as 
pos.sible, and the thumb kept as close to the needle as if glued to it- for 
nothing can be more ungraceful, and at the same time more detrimental to 
rapid working, than incessant motion of the thumb. The arms and elbows 
should be perfectly easy, presenting no appearance of stiffness; when the.se 
rules are obser^-ed, no femmine employment is better calculated to display a 
pretty hand, a well formed wrist and graceful motion, than kuittin"-. The 
method of holding the wwA described above is the one most used in this 
country and in England. The German way is to manage the thread with 
the left hand, and it is said that one can knit more rapidly in lliat way 
when one has once mastered it. 



4G Home Decorati\'e Work. 

OPERATIOXS IX KXITTIXG. 

To cast of or hind of .stitches. This often has to be doue in finishing off 
"work, or in certain portions of edgings to make the pattern. It is done hj knit- 
ting two stitches and then slipping the first of the two over the other, using 
the needle held in the left hand for the purpose. A third stitch is Iheu 
knitted, giving two upon the right-hand needle, the first of which is again 
slipped over the other, and so on. 

Purling and seaming are the same, and consist of knitting a stitch with 
the yarn brought in front instead of behind the needle, where it is ordinar- 
ily. Bring the thread forward, put the right-hand needle into the front of 
the stitch, thread over and knit the stitch, then carry thread behind the 
needle again. This is, in effect, just reversing the stitch, so that it looks 
as if it had been t urned back for front. It is also called a ' ' back stitch. ' ' 

To narrow is to decrease a stitch by putting the right-hand needle into 
two stitches and knitting them as if they were one. 

To widen is to increase or make a stitch, by putting the thread over the 
needle and then knitting this loop as a stitch the next time across or around. 

To increase and to decrease are terms used by some writers to mean 
making a stitch and narrowing. Three stitches are sometimes knit together 
as one, both in plain knitting and in purling. 

Knitting and purling in the same row. In carrying the thread to the 
front of the work just before and just after a purled or seamed stitch, care 
must be taken to see that the thread goes under and not over the needle, as 
the latter process makes a stitch. 

To slip or pass a stitch means to change it from the left-hand needle to 
the right-hand without knitting it. In making edgings, it is often a good 
plan to slip the first stitch in each row, for the reason that this stitch is apt 
to be knit so much more loosely than other stitches. 

The best way to fasten on a new thread in knitting is to lay the two ends 
togetlier, contrariwise, and knit three or four stitches, putting the two 
threads over together for each stitch, as though they were one thread. 

2b 2}ick up a stitch is another method of widening or increasing. To do 
this take up the yarn between two stitches and knit a stitch from it. 

A stitch dropped, unfastened from the needle, will of course ravel back to 
its starting point. Stitches are sometimes dropped at regular intervals in 
stockings, shoulder capes, etc., and raveled back to form open spaces be- 
tween rows of solid Avork. 

The twist stitch is like plain knitting, «mly the needle is put in tlie back 
of the stitch. 

To do plain knitting, cast on the number of stitches rctiuired, liold the 
needle containing these stitches in the left liand, place the point of the right- 
hand needle m the first stitch, throw Ihetliread forward and bring it through 
that stitch, thus makin'r a new stitch on the right-hand needle. Tlie first 



Knitting. 47 

stitch on the left-hand needle, -which has been used or "knit," is allo\\cd to 
slip off the needle; and this is contiuned until all the stitches have V)een 
used up and a new row is made on tlie right-hand needle. Turn this ^\•()rk, 
take it into tlie left hand and repeat this process. 

Garter stitch. "Wlien the work is done on two needles, bade and forth, 
as described above, a succession of ridges is formed, and this work is called 
" garter stitch." This ribbed effect is owing to the fact that plain knitting 
has a right and a wrong side, the appearance of the two sides being quite 
different. In ' ' garter stitch ' ' we have first the right side, and then the 
Avrong side showing, and this makes the ridges. To give a plain surface, 
knitting with two needles, every otlier row must be purled, to bring all the 
right sides of the stitches on the same side. 

Ribbed or seamed tvork is made by alternatijig plain and purled knitting. 
The ribs may be one, two or more stitches wide. If two stitches wide, knit 
two and purl two across or around the work. Many beautiful effects in 
knitting are given by simple combinations of plain and purled stitches. 
Remember to pass the thread back under the needle, after the purled 
stitches. The abbreviations used in directions for knitting are very simple 
indeed, and though varying with different AViiters are easily understood if 
the terms are kno^vn. They consist, usually, of the first letters of these 
words; as o, for "over," or to, "thread over," or as some write it, tto, 
' ' throw thread over, ' ' meaning the same thing in each case, the i^utting of 
the thread around the needle to make a stitch; " t over 3 " would mean over 
three times. So also we have Jc for "knit," n for "narrow," and tog for 
"together"; thus, "^• 2 tog'^ means "knit two stitches together"; s is 
written for "slip" and p for "purl" by some writers. . For example, "si, 
k2, o, n, p3 tog, o2, k4. ' ' This above line, if written out in full, would 
read: "Slip the first stitch, knit two stitches plain, put the thread over the 
needle, narrow, purl three stitches together, put the thread over tlie needle 
twice, and knit four stitches plain. ' ' Stars and lirackets or curves are also 
used, and, like the above, are a gi'eat saving in time, patience and eyesight 
for everyone concerned. Thus, the directicns, "purl 19 stitches, knit 9 
stitches plain, make 1, narrow, knit 3 plain stitches, make 1, narrow, 
knit 3 plain, make 1, naiTOW, knit 4 plain stitches," may be simplified into, 
"pl9, k9, (make 1, n, k3) 2, make 1, n, k4." The part which is to be re- 
peated two or three times is put in brackets or parentheses, and the number 
of times it is to be rejieated is written after it. Where a certain pattern or 
combination of stitches is to be used over and over across the work or all 
around it, the portion to be thus repeated is to be placed between stars, as 
* k3, o2, k2, n, * and repeat from * to * over and over till the round or the 
row is completed. The use of the stars here is the same as in crochet work. 

A CAUTION. 

Frequently directions are given for a pattern which is to be knit back 



48 



Home Decorative Work. 



and forth on two needles, where fii-st one side of the work is toward tlie 
knitter and then the other. Now, it must be remembered that if it is de- 
sired to knit the same pattern round and round, as in a stocking or mitten, 
where the outside is always toA\ ard the worker, the directions for every 
other row must be exactly the opposite, that is, the purled stitches must be 
knit plain, and the plain ones purled. Where the work is narrowed, or the 
thread is put over, there would ])e no difference. 

Some Special Knitting^ Patterns. 

PLAIX AVEB KXITTING. 

This consists in simply knitting round and round plain, as in stockings, 
mittens, or shirt bodies; or, in case of a flat strip, in knitting across plain 
every other row and seaming back in each case. 

EIDGED WORK. 

Tliis work is too well known to need extended mention, and consists in 
throwing up ridges of any desired width by seaming followed by a plainly 
knitted space. A pretty variation is plain basket work formed by knitting 
two and seaming two for two rounds, then knitting plain the stitches that 

^\ ere seamed and seaming those that 
were knit, for two rounds more, mak- 
ing little squares. These may }je made 
also of 3, 4 or 5 stitches each way, ac- 
cording to the size desired. 

PEACOCK-TAIL PATTERN. 

Cast on any number of stitches 
divisible by 9, also four additional 
stitches (two on each side) for the 
edges of a flat piece of work. See 
Fig. 65. The two edge stitches are 
always knit plain and are not men- 
tioned after the first row. 

First Boic. — Knit the two edge 
stitches plain, knit 2, * thread over, 
knit 1 ; * repeat from * to * four times; 
thread over, knit two; repeat from the 
l)eginning, ending with 2 plain stitches 
lor the edge. 

Second Eorv. — Purl 2, knit 11, purl 
Fig. 05. 2; repeat. 

Third Rote. — Narrow, knit 11, narrow; repeat. 
Fourth }loic.—Viu\ 2 together, purl 9, ])url 2 together; repeat. 
Fifth How. — Narrow, knit 7, narrow; repeat. 




Kmttinc;. 



49 




Continue in this manner, repeating the pattern from the iirst row. 
Knit round and round; this makes a i^retty finish lor a haby's shirt or for 
the bottom of a skirt in fine avooI. 

FANCY KIIJS FOR HOSIFKY OK MITTENS. 

This pattern, shown in Fig. 6(5, works up handsomely in silk or saxony. 
The directions are for round-and-round work. 

Cast on any number of stitchers divisible by 111. 

First Round. — Purl 3, thread over, slip 1 (without knitting), knit 1, pass 
the slipped stitch over, knit 5; so continue all around. 

Second Bound. — Purl 3, knit 
2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pa.ss the 
slipped stitch over, knit 4, and 
repeat all around. 

Third Eound.—FuA 3, knit 

2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pass the 
slipped stitch over, knit 3, and 
repeat. 

Fourth Bound. — Purl 3, knit 

3, over, slip 1, knit 1, pass the 
slipped stitch over, knit 2; re- 
peat. 

ITj,; (jG. Fifth Bound. — Purl 3, knit 

4, over, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1; repeat. 

Sixth Bound.— Fnrl 5, knit 5, over, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped 
stitch over; repeat. Repeat from the first as far as desired. 

KILT PATTERN. 

Cast on any number 
of stitches divisible by 9. 

First i^ow.— Purl 8, 
knit 1 ; repeat. 

Second Bow. — Purl 2, 
knit 7; repeat. 

Third Bow.— Furl fi, 
knit 3; repeat. 

Fourth Bow. — Purl 4, 
knit 5 ; repeat. 

Fifth i?OM-'.— Purl 4, 
knit 5 ; repeat. 

Sixth Bote. — Purl 6, 
knit 3; repeat. 

Sex-enth i?o?r.— Purl 2, 
knit 7; repeat. 

Eighth Row. — Like first row. 
4 




Fig. 67. 



50 



Home Decorative Work. 




Ninth Bow. — Like tiist row. 

Eepeat the pattern from tlie second row. Crochet a deep scallop on the 
bottom, of wool or a mixed thread of wool and silk. 
LOOPED KXITTING. 
Two large needles for wool knitting will be required, and one flat 
wooden mesh. Cast on any desired number of stitches. 

First Bow. — Knit across plain. 
Second Bote. — Slip the first 
stitch; insert the needle into the next 
stitch, and throw the cotton forward 
as if yon were going to knit the 
stitch; place the mesh behind the 
needle in the right hand, and turn 
the wool which is on this needle up- 
ward, bring it back again on the 
needle so that it is wtmnd once 
around the mesh, and twice round 
the needle. Then draw the double 
stitch through the second stitch, knit 
Pjq gg it, and insert the needle into the next 

stitch, and repeat what has been 
explained. Kint the last stitch 
without a loop. 

Tliird Bow. — Before drawing 
out the mesh, turn the work and 
knit one i)lain row. Every double 
stitch is knitted as one stitch so 
as to retain the same number of 
stitches as in the first row. 

Fourth Bow. —Like the second. 
Continue the pattern to any 
extent desired. This style of 
knitting is useful for hoods. 

AFGHAN PATTERN IN KNOTTED 

STITCH. 

See Fig. 69. 

Use heavy wool, and cast on 
11 stitches. 

First Bow. — Knit all plain, 
throwing the wool over the needle 
twice before each stitch. 

Second Bow. — Each stitch Fiq qq 

now has three parts: knit the first plain, purl the second, knit the third 




Knitting. 



51 



plain; oast off the second over the third, and the first over the second, leav- 
ing but one stitch, and so continue to the end. 

Repeat from the first. It can be made as Mide as desired. 

WAVE PATTEEN. 

Cast on any number of stitches divisible by 12, and two extra stitches 
for the end. 

First Bote. — Purl 2, thread over, 
knit 3, knit 2 together at the back, nar- 
row, knit 3, over; repeat from the be- 
ginning of the row; finish the row with 
purl 2. 

Second How. — Knit the purled and 
purl the knitted and loop stitches of the 
previous row. 

Ihird Jioiv.— Purl 2, knit 2, over, 
knit 1, knit 2 together at the back, nar- 
row, knit 2, over, knit 1; repeat from 
the beginning of the row; finish with 
purl 2. 
^^^- ^^- Fourth Bow. — Like second row. 

'Fifth Bow. — Purl 2, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 2 together at the Ijack, 





Fig. 71, 
narrow, knit 1, over, knit 2; repeat from the beginning of the row; finish 
with purl 2. 

Sixth Bow. — Tiike second row. 



62 



Home Decorative Work. 



Seventh Row. — Purl 2, kuit 3, over, knit 2 together at the back, narrow, 
o\ er, kuit 3; repeat from the beginning of the row; finish witli purl 2. 

Eighth Bow. — Like second row. 

Eepeat from the first row. 

For the crochet edge: Work one double into the first stitch in the depth 
of scallop, four chain, one double into the first, one double into next stitch, * 
four chain, one double into the first, pass over 
one stitch, one double into the next; repeat 
from the * four times more, then repeat fi'om 
the beginning of the row. This makes a pretty- 
border for a shawl, countei-pane or child's 
skirt. 




I.OZENGK PATTERX FOR SHAWLS OE MUFFLERS. 

This is made of Berlin and ice wool, in 
white, solid color, or two contrasting colors. 
AVork in plain knitting throrrghout. Use two 
bone needles. No. 9. (See Fig. 71. ) 
Fi(}. 72. First Mow. — With Berlin wool. 

Second to Ninth A'o(r.~ With ice avooI. 

Tenth i?o?r.- With Berlin wool. To form the lozenge-shaped pattern, 
when working the first and second stitches, pick up and knit the correspond- 
ing stitches of the last Berlin row with them, knit 8 stitches, then pick up 
the next two stitches, and so continue to the end of the row. 

Eleventh Row. — Knit ]dain with Ber- 
lin wool. 

Eepeat from the second row, revers- 
ing the pattern formed in the tenth row 
by picking up the stitches between those 
picked up in the tenth row. 

Three hundred stitches are needed 
for a shawl. Decrease to secure the 
proper shape, by narroAving at the end of 
each row. Crochet scallops on the straight 
«dg<', and tie in fringe on the sides. Fig. 7,3. 

HERRINGBONE STRll'K. 
( 'ast on any number of stitches di^asible by ;5. (See Fig. 72. ) 
7'7r.s/ Uow. — 1 plain, narrow, tluead over; repeat to last 2 which are 
knit phiin. 

SveondRow.—^&mx 1, seam 2 together, over, repeat till last 2 wliich 
are seamed. Commence! at first row. 

TWISTED I'.AU STRIPE. 
Cast on anv number of .stitcbcs divisible by fi. (See Fig. 7:>.) 




Knitting. 



53 




Firxf I'oic. — One i)l;iiii. Ilucad over, 1 ]>Iiiiii, kuit 3 together, 1 plain, 
over; repeat. 

For the sseeoiul aucl every alternate row tlie single stitch hetweeu the 
two made stitches is seamed ; the rest of the row is knitted. 

Repeat these two rows. 

C'ANK WORK PATTERN'. 

Cast on any number of stitches divisible by 4. 

Fir^f Jioir. — Tliread o\er, 1 plain," over, 3 plain; repeat to end of row. 

Second How. — All seamed. 
Third liotr. — Tliree plain, over, 
slip 1, narrow, pass slii)ped stitch 
o^er, over; repeat. 

Fourth I?nu\ — All seamed. 
Fifth Roir. — Over, slip 1, nar- 
row, i)ass slipped stitch over. o\cr, 3 
phiin. 

Hixtli Ko\r. — All seamcti. 
Fig. 74. Seroith J'oif. — I>ike third row. 

Eighth Row. — All seamed. 

Ninth Bow. — Over, slip 1, narrow, pass slipi)eil stitcli over, over, 3 
plain. 

Tenth Row. — Repeat fiom the third row. 

VAXDYKE PATTERN. 
Cast on !• stitches for each pattern, or any nnmbcr of stitches divisiVde 
l»y 9. 

First Row. — Three plain, * over, narrow at tlie hack, l i)lain. "* repeat 
from * to ■•■". 

Second Rojr. — All seamed. 
Third Row. — One plain, nar- 
i-ow, over, 1 plain, over, narrow at 
the back, repeat. 

Fourth Row. — All seamed. 
Fifth Row. — Narrow, * ovir, 
3 plain, over, slip 1, narrow, ])ass 
the slipped stitch over, * repeat 
from * to ""■. 

Sixth Row. — All seamed, repeat 
from iir.st row. 

(AISLE PATTERN. 

Always ca.st two stitches over .so as to knit the first and last stitch plain. 
Cast on any numl)er of stitches divisible by H. 
First Row. — Plain. 




Fic. 75. 



54 



PIoMi: Decorativk Wokk. 




Srroiid Bote— Hernii 1, over, slip 1, 1 plain, pas.s slipped stitch over, 
.seaiii 1, over twice, 4 plaiu; repeat. 

Third Bow. — Seam 4, 1 plain, seam 2, 1 plainj repeat. 
FourfJi Boir. Seam 1, over, slip 1, 1 plain, pass slipped stitch over, 
seam 1. 

Now take the next two stitches on a 
3d needle and keep them on the right side 
of your knitting; 2 plaiu, knit 2 plain on 
od needle. 

Fifth Bow. — Seam 4. 1 plaiu, seam 2, 
1 i)lain; repeat. 

Begin again from the 2d row. 
If you desire your cable broader you 
need only add a few more stitches, say 
9 or 10 to the pattern. With 10 stitches 
you slii» off 4 to the 3d needle. 

1,attic!:-w()i?k pattern. 
Fig. 7G. 

This is very handsome for a baby's coverlet. 

Cast on in white wool 110 stitches on long Avooden needles, No. (!. 

You can put a Ijorder on when finished. 

Cast on 22 stitches, 6 stitches to 
each pattern, make 2 plain stitches 
at the beginning and end of row. 

First Bow. — All plain. 

Second Bow. — Two plaiu, ^' take 
otf 6 long stitches, and pass the first 
3 over the second 3, but do not let 
them slip off; now knit these 6 
])lain. * Repeat from * to *. 

Knit 2 idaiu rows. Repeat from 
second row. 

You can make tlic otlicr stri]>e 
ditfcrcnt, if you wish. 

ri:i:x vattkkx. 

Cast on any number of stitches divisiljle by IH. 

First Bow.— Seam 1, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slii)i)ed stitch over. 3 plain, 
ll)read over, narrow, over, 3 plain, over, slij) 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch 
over, over, 3 plain, narrow; repeat. 

Second, Fourth, Si.rih and Fighth i^ow.s. — I'lain. 

TAmZ i2o«'. — Seam 1, slip 1, 1 plaiu, pull slipjud .stitch over, 2 plain, 
over, 2 plain, over, 1 plain, slip 1, narrow, pass slipped stitch over. 1 ]ilaiu, 
over. 2 plain, over, 2 plain, narrow; rf])eat. 




Fig. 77 



Kmttinc. 



55 



Fifth Row. — Scam 1, slip 1, 1 plain, i)ul I slipped stitch over, 1 plain, 
over, 3 i)lain, over, 1 plain, slip 1, narrow, jjass slipped stitch over, 1 plain, 
over, 3 plain, over, 1 plain, narrow; repeat. 

Sciriith Jiow. — 8eani 1, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, over, 2 
plain, narrow, over, 1 plain, over, slip 1, narrow, pass slijiped stitch over, 
over, 1 plain, over, slip], 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 2 plain, over, 
narrow; repeat. 

This pattern is very pretty for tidies or quilts made iu strips; it is also 
pretty for l)ags. If used for this purpose, it would be necessary to line tlie 
knitted part witli something bright in silk or satin, and use ribbon of tlie 
same shade lor draw-strings iu the top. Knit in ice wool or Shetland wool, 




it is lovely for 
som(* scarf. 



Fi<;. 7S. 
■;ha\\ Is. or head wraps, and in .saxony, 

TIIKI.I.IS PATTERN. 



it makes a liand- 



C'ast on any number of stitches divisible by 9. (See Fig. 79.) 

First How. — Three plain, narrow, thread over, 4 plain, rej)eat. 

Second. Fourth, Sixth and Eighth Eoics. — Plain. 

Third Bow. — 2 plain, narrow, over, narrow, over, 3 plain, repeat. 

Fifth How. — 1 plain, narrow, (over, narrow) twice, over, 2 plain, reiHjat. 

Seventh Bow. — Narro^^^ (over, narrow) 3 times, over. 1 plain, repeat. 

Commence at first row. 



Cast on ai 



TKXXIKS I'.VTTKKX. 

niindxT of stitches divisiblt- by !l. (See Fig. W. ) 



66 



Home Decokative AVokk. 



First L'ow. — 81ip 1, 1 i)l:uu, pull .slijjped stitch over. ."> plain, over, 1 
plain, over, 1 jjlaiu; repeat. 

Second lioxc. — Slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, y plain. 




Fig. 70. 
Third Bote. — Slip 1, 1 i)hnn, pull slip])c(l stitch over, 4 i^lain, over. 1 
I)lain, over, 2 plain; repeat. 

FouHh, Si.rfh, Eiijhlh, Tnillt ond Tirelfth A'ofc.s.— Like 'id. 

Fifth i.'ow.— Slip 1, 1 
plain, pull slipiied stitch 
over, 3 plain, over, 1 jdaiu, 
over, o plain; repeat. 

Seventh Bow. — Slip 1, 1 
plain, pull slipped stitch 
over, 2 plain, over, 1 idain, 
over, 4 plain; repeat. 

Miith i2ow.— Slip ^1, 1 
plain, pull slipped stitch 
ovei'. 1 plain, over, 1 ]>lain, 
over. ."> plain; repeat. 

F.lrvrnth Bow. — Slip 1, 1 
jdain. pull sli])ped stitch 
o\er, over, 1 plain, over, 6 



Fig. 80. 
plain; repeat. Continue in this manner from the beginninji. 

RAISED TLAIT KXITTIN'G FOK CARIUAGK Kr(;. 

This is represented in Fig. 81 . 

Needles No. 5, 3 pounds and .'! ounces of 12-th read tleccy wool. Vou 
must also have an extra needle by you. 

It is to be done in stri])cs and then crochetted tojvethcr. 




Knitting. 



57 



Cast on 20 stitohoi 




;iiul knit () jtlain rm\s. 

Screnlh Jiow. — 4 i)liiiii, scam 1,111111 loiiiid 
ami knit and seam these 4 alternately nntil 11 
rows are done. When 11 rows are done, slip 
these 4 stitches onto the extra pin, Miiich you 
must keep on the right-hand side of your knit- 
ting. Seam 4 stitches on the right-hand, needle 
off the 2d needle on the left, leaving the 3d 
needle hanging down over the i-ight side of the 
knitting; then seam the 4 stitches on the above- 
mentioned 3d needle, seam 4, 4 plain. 

Eiylith Hoic.—XW plain. 

XiiiihBoir. — 4 plain, seam 12, 4 plain. 

Tenth Eou\ — 8 plain, turn round and seam 
and knit these 4 alternately till 11 rows are 
done. Slip them on to the extra needle, and 
let it hang down over the right side of the 
knitting. Knit 4 stitches plain on the right- 
hand needle otf the left one, then 4 plain, rest 



plai 



KIcniilli How. Four plain, seam 12, 4 



Fig. 81. plain. 

Twelfth Bow. — All plain. 

liepeat from seventh row till one yard and 
a half is done, then knit (i ])lain rows, and 
bind off. 

Make 5 stripes and join. I'ut a IVinge or 
edge on. 

baby's knitted AFGHAX ok I AKHIA(iK 
KOBE. 

Fig. 82 shows a single stripe. 

Long wooden needles, No. 10, and a third 
short needle are required; also one and one- 
half ]X)unds of pale blue wool. 

Ca.st on 150 stitdies, and knit 4 plain 
rows. 

Firat JiOW of Fattern. — *8 phiin, narrow, 
thread over, narrow , over, narrow, over, nar- 
row; * repeat from * to * to the last (! stitches 
which are plain. 

Second Fow. — Two i)lain. seam 4. '■• seam > 
repeat from ••■ to ■■■. 

Third Fow. — ■•" Nine plain, over, narrow. 




Fk;. 8ii. 
, 2 plain, seam 4. 2 plain; '* 

o\er, narrow, oxer, narrow 



58 Home Decorative Work. 

over, 1 plain; * repeat from * to *. The last 6 stitches are plain. 

Fourth Eow. — Two plain, seam 4, * seam 9, 2 plain, seam 4, 2 plain; * 
repeat from * to *. 

Fifth Bow. — * Two plain, slip 2 stitches on to the extra needle, 2 plain, 
knit 2 plain off the extra needle, 2 plain, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, 
narrow, over, narrow; * repeat from * to *. At the end, slip 2 on the exthi 
needle, 2 plain, knit 2 plain off the extra needle, 2 plain. 

Sixth Mow. — Two plain, seam 4, * seam 9, 2 plain, seam 4, 2 plain;* 
repeat from * to *. 

Seventh Bow. — * Eight plain, knit 3 stitches together, (over, narrow) 3 
times; * repeat from * to * till last 8 stitches which are plain. 

Repeat from second row. 

When long enough, add a fringe or the Rose-leaf lace given on page 61. 
It must be knit of wool of the shade of the afghan and sewed on carefully. 

Note. — In the last patterns, if four needles are used, it is all right to 
make the plain rows when directed; but in tidy strips or bed quilts or 
afghans, in order to keep the patterns on the right side, a seam row must be 
made instead of plain, that is, in any pattern where a plain row is given. 

STAR PATTERN. 

See Fig. 83. 

Two balls No. 14 knitting cotton, four needles, fast on 8 stitches, 3 
stitches on two, and 2 on one needle. 

First and every alternate row. — Plain all around. After knitting the 
17th row, there should be 27 stitches on each of two needles and 18 on the 
thinl. 

Second Eow. — Thread over, 1 plain, all around. 

Fourth Bow. — Over, 2 plain; repeat all around. 

Si.it h Bow. — Over, 3 plain, all round. 

Eighth Bow. — Over, 4 plain, all roun(]. 

Te}ith Bow. — Over, 5 plain, all round. 

Twelfth Bow. — Over, 6 plain, all round. 

Fourteenth Bow. — Over, 7 plain, all round. 

Sixteenth Bow. — Over, 8 plain, all round. 

Eiffhteenth Bow. — Over, 1 plain, over, narrow, (i plaiii, all round. 

Twentieth Row. — Over, 1 jilain, over, narrow, over, narrow, ."i plain, all 
II I and. 

Tir< ntii-seeond Bow. — Over. 1 plain, (over, narrow) 3 times. 4 phiin, all 
round. 

Twen I //-fourth Bow. — Over. 1 plain. (oAcr, narrow i 4 times. :'. ])lain. all 
round. 

Twent//-sixlh L'oir.- — Over, 1 plain, (over, narrow) ."> tiuK'S, 2 ])lain. all 
round. 



Kmttix(}. 59 

7'irni/i/-(i;/Ji//i Jiow. ~0\vv. 1 plain, (over, narrow) (> limes, J plain, all 
round. 

T/iiriidh liow. — Over. 1 plain, (over, narrow) 7 times, all round. 



Fkj. 83. 
Von now have 4H stitches on each of two needles, and .i2 stitehes on one 
needle. Bind oft' all bnt 16 stitches on the needle which has the least num- 
I»er of stitches. Knit across plain t\vice, seam across, plain across; this makes 
1 ril). You want six of these ribs on the ritjht side. 



60 Home Decokatinj-: AVukk. 

Sfw the stars togellicr, putting a star ()pi)()sit<- a block. Fifteeu make a 
gcMxl-sized tidy. 

BRAT I) STKIPK. 

This is very pretty lor lauey mittens or ehildreu's hose. 

Cast on 13 stitches. 

First Bow. — Seam 2, knit 9, seam :2. 

Second Bow. — Seam 2, knit 9, seam 2. 

TJiird Bow. — Seam 2, knit 3, take ort' ou a (hirning needle '■',. liolding 
darning needle from yon; knit 3 on left-hand needle, then kuil :; from 
dainer, seam 2. 

Fourth Bow. — Seam 2, knit !), seam 2. 

Fifth and Sixth Bows. — Same as 4th. 

Seventh Bow. — Seam 2, take otf on darner ;!. holding the darner to you 
instead of from yon. knit .'> from left-hand needle, now 3 I'rom darner, knit 3, 
seam 2. 

Eighth /^(xr. -Seam 2. kiut !(. seam 2. 

Ninth and Tenth Bons. — Same as sth. 

Eleventh Bow. — Same as 3d. 

Kepeat, always hringing the three stitches on either side of the braid 
over the three stitches in the center. You will have no trouble. Those who 
knit children's hose will find this pretty for the side stripe. 
OAK -LEAF PATTERN FOR .MITTENS. 

Ca^st 28 stitches ou a needle. 

First Bow. — Knit 9, narrow, over, knit 1, over twice, scam 2. leave 
thread over, knit 1, over, slip and bind, knit 9, seam 2. 

Second Bow. — Knit s, narrow, knit 3, seam 2. knit 3, slip and bind, 
knit 8, seam 2. 

Third Borv. — Knit 7, narrow, knit 1, over, knit 1, over, knit 1. scam 2, 
knit 1, over, knit 1, over, knit 1, slip and bind, knit 7, seam 2. 

Fourth Bow. — Knit (5, narrow, knit 5, seam 2, knit fi, slip and liind, 
knit (), seam 2. 

Fifth Bow. — Knit."), narrow, knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 2, ,scam 2, 
knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 2, slip and bind, knit 5, seam 2. 

Sixth Bow. ^Knit 4, narrow, knit 7, .seam 2. knit 1. slip and biiitl. knit 
4, st^^am 2. 

Seventh Bow. — Knit 3, narrow, knit 3, over, knit 1, over, knit 3, seam 
2, knit 3, over, knit 1, over, knit 3, slip and hind, knit 3, seam 2. 

Eighth Bow. — Kuit 2, narrow, knit 9, .seam 2, kuit 9, sli]) and liind, 
knit 2, seam 2. 

Xiiilli Unw. — Knit 1. iKirrow. knit 4, over, knit 1. over, knit I. scam 2, 
knit 4, over, kiit 1, over, knit 4, slip and bind, knit 1. 

Tenth Bow. — Narrow, knit 11, scam 2, knit II. slij) ami bind, sc:mi 2. 

Kepeat from the first. 



Knitting. 61 



Knitted Laces. 

The IblloAvitig laces can be developed in tine or coarse linen or cotton, or 
in silk or saxony, with very i)leasing results. Tiie directions nsnally men- 
tion some particular material which is very suitable, but others may often 
be used with e(iually good eftect. Insertions to match may always lie made 
l>y knitting both edges like the lop of the lace. 

KOSE-LEAF I.ACE. 

The materials required for the pattern shown in Fig. 84 are No. 50 or 70 
linen thread, and two No. 18 needles; or saxony yarn, and two No. 16 needles 
of steel. 

Cast on I^>1 stitches, knit across plain. 

First Roir. — Slip 1, 3 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain, over, 1 plain, narrow, 
seam 1, narrow, 1 plain, over twice, seam 1, over, 1 plain, narrow, seam 1, 
narrow, 1 plain, over, 3 plain, over, narrow, over twice, narrow, over 
twice, 2 plain. 

Second Row. — Slip 1, 2 plain, seam 1, 2 plain, seam 1, 2 plain, over, 
narrow, seam 4, 1 plain, seam 3, 1 plain, seam 3, 1 plain, seam 6, over, 
narrow, 2 plain. 

Third Row. — Slip 1, 3 ])lain, over, narrow, 1 plain, over, 1 plain, nar- 
row, seam 1, narrow, 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, narrow, seam 1, narrow, 1 
plain, over, 3 plain, over, narrow, 7 plain. 

Fourth Bow. — Slip 1, 8 plain, over, narrow, seam 4, 1 plain, seam 2, 1 
plain, seam 2, 1 plain, seam 6, over, narrow, 2 plain. 

Fifth Row. — Slip 1, 3 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 
narrow, seam 1, narrow, seam 1, narrow, seam 1, narrow, over, 1 plain, 
over, 3 plain, over, narrow, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, over 
twice, 3 plain. 

Sixth Row. — Slip 1, 3 plain, seam 1, 2 plain, seam 1, 2 plain, seam 1, 2 
plain, over, narrow, seam 5, 1 ]>lain, seam 1, 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, seam 
7, over, narrow, 2 plain. 

Seventh Row. — Slip 1, 3 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain, over, 3 plain, 
over, knit 3 stitches together, seam 1, knit 3 stitches together, OA'er, 3 plain, 
over, 3 plain, over, naiTow, 11 plain. 

Eighth Row. — Bind off 7, .I plain, over, narrow, seam 7, 1 plain, seam 9, 
over, narrow, 2 plain. 

IXSEETIOX TO MATCH HOSE-I.EAF LACK. 

Cast on 29 stitches; knit across plain. 

First Row. — Slip 1, 3 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain, over, 1 plain, narrow, 
.seam 1, narrow, 1 plain, over twice, seam 1, over, 1 plain, narrow, seam 1, 
narrow, 1 plain, over, 3 plain, over, naiTow, 2 plain. 



(V2 



Home DECouAiiMi Wokk. 



Second Roir. — Fourplaiu, over, uarrow. scam 4. 1 plain, scam :!. 1 plain, 
seam :?, 1 plain, seam (J, over, narrow, 2 plain. 

Third Bote. — Slip 1, 3 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain, over, 1 ])htin, nar- 
row, seam 1, narrow, 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, rjarrow, seam 1. narrow, 1 
plain, over, 3 plain, over, narrow, 2 plain. 

Fourth Bow. — Four plain, over, narrow, seam 4, 1 ])lain, scam 2,' 1 
plain, seam 2, 1 plain, seam 6, over, narrow. 9 plain. 





^^^^^^^m 


M^S^^M 


^91 




^^^^p^ 


■ 






^^^^1 






m^^i 



Fig. 84. 

Fiflh Bow. — Slip 1, 3 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 
narrow, seam 1, narrow, seam 1, narro^^. seam 1, narrow, over, 1 plain, 
over, 3 ])lain, over, narrow, 2 plain. 

Sid h Bow. — Fourplaiu, over, narrow, seam .l, 1 plain, .scam 1, 1 jilain, 
seam 1, 1 jilain, seam 7, over, narrow, 2 i>lain. 

Seventh Bow. — Sli]) 1. 3 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain, over, 3 plain, over, 
knits together, scam 1, knit :'> together, over, 3 i)lain. oxer, :> plain, over, 
narrow, 2 i>lain. 



Knitting. 63 

Eighth Row. — Four plain, over, narrow, seam 7. 1 plain, seam !>, over, 
narrow, 2 plain. 

Ninth Bow. — Slip 1, 3 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain, over, 5 plain, over, 
knit .3 together, over, 5 plain, over, 3 jilain, over, narrow, 2 plain. 

Tenth Foic. — Four plain, over, Harrow, seam 19, over, narrow, 2 jjlain. 
GBECIAX LACE. 

The materials required for the Grecian lace shown in the H.^th illustra- 
tion are No. 40 spool cotton and No. 18 needles. 

Cast on 50 stitches, and knit across plain. 

First Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, over, 
narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 9 plain, naiTOw, over twice, narrow, 1 
I>lain, over, narrow, 2 plain, over, narrow, 3 plain, over, narrow, 4 plain, 
over, narrow, 5 plain, over, narrow, over, 2 plain. 

Second Bote. — Slip 1, 29 plain, seam loop, 10 plain, over twice, seam 2 
together, 2 plain, over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Third Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, over, 
narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 15 plain, over, narrow, 2 plain, over, 
narrow, 3 plain, over, narrow, 4 plain, over, narrow, 5 plain, over, nar- 
row, over, 2 plain. 

Fourth Bow. — Slip 1, 41 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Fifth Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, over, 
narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 7 plain, narrow, over twice, narrow, 
narrow, over twice, narrow, 1 plain, over, narrow, 2 plain, over, narrow, 3 
plain, over, narrow, 4 plain, over, narrow, 5 plain, over, narrow, over-, 2 
plain. 

Sixth Boio. — Slip 1, 29 plain, seam loop, 3 plain, seam loop, 8 plain, 
over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 to- 
gether, 2 plain. 

Seventh Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 17 plain, over, narrow, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, 3 plain, over, narrow, 4 plain, over, narrow, 5 plain, over, 
nan-ow, over, 2 plain. 

Eighth Bow. — Slip 1, 43 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, over, 
narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Ninth Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, over, 
narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 5 plain, nari'ow, over twice, narrow, 
narrow, over twice, narrow, narrow, over twice, narrow, 1 plain, over, nar- 
row, 2 plain, over, narrow. 3 plain, over, narrow, 4 plain, over, narrow, 5 
plain, over, narrow, over, 2 plain. 

Tenth i?ow. — Slip 1, 29 plain, .seam loop, 3 plain, seam loop, 3 plain, 
seam loop, 6 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, over, narrow, ovor 
twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 



64 



HojiE Decorative Work. 



Eleventh i?oi«.— Slip 1, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 19 plain, over, narrow, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, 3 plain, over, nan-ow, 4 plain, over, narrow, 5 plain, over, 
narrow, over, 2 plain. 




Fk;. r.s. 

Twelfth Bow. — Slip 1, 1.3 plain, o^■t'r twite, seam 2 together, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Thirteenth Row. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 3 plain, narrow, over twice, nar- 
row, narrow, over twice, narrow, narrow, over twice, narrow, narrow, over 



Knitting. 65 

twice, narrow, 1 plain, over, narrow, 3 plain, over, narrow, 3 plain, over, 
narrow, 4 plain, over, narrow, 5 plain, over, narrow, over, 2 plain. 

Fourteenth Bow. — Slip 1, 29 plain, seam loop, 3 plain, seam loop, 3 
plain, seam loop, 3 plain, seam loop, 4 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 
plain, over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Fifteenth Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 21 plain, over, narrow, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, 3 plain, over, narrow, 4 plain, over, narrow, 5 plain, over, 
narrow, over, 2 plain. 

Sixteenth Bore. — Slip 1, 47 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Seventeenth Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 1 plain, narrow, (over twice, 
narrow, narrow) 4 times, over twice, narrow, 1 plain, over, narrow, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, 3 plain, over, narrow, 4 plain, over, narrow, 5 plain, over, 
narrow, over, 2 plain. 

Eighteenth Bow. — Slip 1, 29 plain, (seam loop, 3 plain) 4 times, seam 
loop, 2 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, over, narrow, over twi(;e, 
seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Nineteenth Bow. — Slip!, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 49 plain. 

Twentieth Bow. — Slip 1, narrow, over, narrow, over, narrow, 5 plain, 
over, narrow, 4 plain, over, narrow, 3 plain, over, narrow, 2 plain, over, 
narrow, narrow, 18 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, over, nar- 
row, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Twenty-first Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 3 plain, narrow, (over twice, 
narrow, narrow) 3 times, over twice, narrow, 28 plain. 

Twenty-second Boiv. — Slip 1, narrow, over, narrow, over, narrow, 5 
plain, over, narrow, 4 plain, over, narrow, 3 plain, over, narrow, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, knit 1 loop plain, seam 1 loop, (3 plain, seam loop) 3 times, 4 
plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, over, narrow, over twice, seam 
2 together, 2 plain. 

Twenty-third Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 46 plain. 

Twenty-fourth Bow. — Slip 1, nari'ow, over, narrow, over, narrow, 5 
plain, over, narrow, 4 plain, over, narrow, 3 plain, over, narrow, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, 17 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, over, narrow, 
over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Twenty-fifth Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 5 plain, narrow, (over twice, 
narrow, narrow) twice, over twice, narrow, 28 plain. 

Tweniy-si.rth Bow. — Slip 1, narrow, over, narrow, over, narrow, 5 plain, 
5 



66 Home Decorative Wokk. 

over, narrow, 4 plain, over, narrow, 3 plain, over, narrow, 2 plain, over, 
narrow, knit 1 loop plain, (seam 1 loop, 3 plain) twice, seam loop, 6 plain^ 
over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 to- 
gether, 2 plain. 

Twenty-seventh lioic. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 
plain, over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 44 plain. 

Twenty-eighth Bom. — Slip 1, narrow, over, narrow, over, narrow, 5 plain, 
over, narrow, 4 plain, over, narrow, 3 plain, over, narrow, 2 plain, over, 
narrow, 15 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, over, narrow, over 
twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Twenty-ninth Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 
plain, over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 7 plain, narrow, over 
twice, narrow, narrow, over twice, narrow, 28 plain. 

Thirtieth Bow. — Slip 1, narrow, over, narrow, over, narrow, 5 plain, 
OA er, narrow, 4 plain, over, narrow, 3 plain, over, narrow, 2 plain, over, 
naiTOAV, 1 plain, seam 1, 3 plain, seam loop, 8 plain, over twice, seam 2 to- 
gether, 2 plain, over, naiTow, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Thirty-first Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 ]ilain> 
over, nanow, over twice, seam 2 together, 42 plain. 

Thirty-second Bow. — ^Slip 1, narrow, over, narrow, over, narrow, 5 plain, 
over, narrow, 4 plain, over, narrow, 3 plain, over, narrow, 2 plain, over, 
narrow, 13 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, over, narrow, over 
twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Thirty-third i?oit'.— Slip 1, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, 
OA'cr, narrow, o\cr twice, seam 2 together, 9 plain, narrow, over twice, 
narrow, 28 plain. 

Thirty-fourth Bow. — Slip 1, 29 j)lain, seam loop, 10 plain, over twice, 
seam 2 together, 2 plain, over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Tliirty-fifth Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 15 plain, over, narrow, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, 3 plain, over, narrow, 4 plain, over, narrow, 5 plain, over, 
narrow, over, 2 plain. 

Tliirty-sixth Row. — Slip 1, 41 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Repeat from 5th row, and commence again. 

BEAUTIFUL LACE. 

Cast on 28 stitches, knit across plain. 

First Bow. — Slip 1, 2 plain, (over, narrow) twice, over, 1 plain, over, 2 
plain, narrow, 4 plain, narrow, 2 jjlain, (over, narrow) 3 times, 2 plain. 

Second Bow. — This and every even row all seamed. 

Tldrd Bow. — Slip 1, 2 plain, (over, narrow) twice, over, 3 plain, over, 2 
plain, narrow, 2 plain, narrow, 2 plain, (over, narrow) 3 times, 2 plain. 



Knitting. 



6T 



Fiflh 7iV)ir.— Sli]) 1. "2 itlain, (over, uarrow) twice, over, .') iilain, over, 2 
plain, narrow, narrow, l plain, (over, narrow) 3 times, 2 plain. 

Sei-cnfh i.'oH'.— Slip 1, narrow, 1 plain, (over, narrow) twice, over, 2 
l)lain, narrow, 4 plain, uarrow, 2 plain, over, 1 plain, (over, narrow) twice, 
over. 3 plain. 

Ninth ii'oic— Slip 1, narrow, 1 plain, (over, uarrow ) twice, over, 2 plain, 
narrow, 4 plain, narrow, 2 plain, o\er, 1 plain, (over, narrow) twice, over, 
3 plain. , 

Eleventh Row.— i^\\Y 1, narrow. 1 plain, (over, narrow) twice, over, 2 
plain, narrow, uarrow, 2 j.lain. over. T. plain, (over, uarrow) twice, over, 
3 plain. 

Seam across and hcsi'i at lirst row . 

I,EMOX-SEED I.ACE. 

This pattern is shown iu 
Fig. 8(5. 

Cast on 23 stitches ; kuit 
across plain. 

First /?o!('.— Three plain, 
o\er, uarrow, 3 plain, over, 
1 plain, over, .5 plain, (over, 
narrow) twice, o\cr four 
times, uarrow, over, narrow, 
1 jilain. 

Second iJoir.— Five plain, 
(seam 1, 1 plain) three times, 
seam 1, 13 plain, over, nar- 
row, 1 plain. 

Third i?o(r.— Three 
])lain, over, narrow, 1 x>laiii) 
uarrow, over, 3 plain, over. 
Fig. 86, uarrow, 3 i)lai.i, over, nar- 

row, 1 plain, over, uarro-w, 4 plain, over, uarrow, 1 plain. 

Fourth Bow.— Ei^^ht plain, seam 1. 2 plain, seam 1, 13 plain, over, 
narrow, 1 plain. 

Fifth Row. Three i)lain, over, nanow. uarrow, over, o plain, over, 
narrow, 2 plain, over, uarrow. 2 plain, over. narro\\ , ?, plain, over, uarrow, 

I plain. 

Sixth Row.— ^i-y^n plain, seam 1, 3 plain, seam 1, 13 plain, over, uar- 
row, 1 plain. 

Serenth Row.— Thrcv plain, over, 3 together, over, naiTOw. 3 plain, uar- 
row. over, nairow, 1 plain, over, narrow, 3 plain, over, uarrow, 2 plain, 
over, narrow. 1 j)lain. 




68 Home Decorative Work. 

Eighth Bow.—Shi plain, seam 1, 4 iilaiu, seam 1. 11 plain, over, nar- 
row, 1 plain. 

Ninth Bow. — Three plain, over, narrow, 1 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain, 
•narrow, over, 3 plain, over, narrow, 4 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain, over, 
narrow, 1 plain. 

Tenth Eoiv. — Five plain, seam 1, 5 plain, seam 1, 11 plain, over, nar- 
row, 1 plain. 

Eleventh Boiv. — Three plain, over, narrow, 2 plain, over, slip 1, narrow, 
throw slipped stitch over, over, 4 plain, over, narrow, 5 plain, oAer, narrow, 
over, narroAv, 1 plain. 

Twelfth Bow. — Bind off 3, 7 plain, seam 1,11 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain. 

The upper part, knitted alike on both edges, makes an insertion 
to match. 

NORMANDY LACE. 

Cast on 22 stitches, knit across plain. 

First Bow. — Knit 3, over, narrow, knit 3, over, knit 3 together, over, 
knit 3, over, knit 3 together, over, knit 3, over, knit 2. 

Second Bow. — Over, narrow, over, knit 5, over, knit 1, over, knit 5, over, 
knit 1, over, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 1„ 

Third Bow. — Knit three, over, narrow, knit 7, narrow, over, knit 1, 
over, narrow, knit 3, narrow, over, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 1, over, knit 2. 

Fourth Brno. — Over, narrow, over, knit 1, narrow, over, knit 3, over, 
narrow, knit 1, narrow, over, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 8, over, narrow, 
knit 1. 

Fifth Bow. — Knit 3, over, narrow, knit 7, over, narrow, knit 1, narrow, 
over, knit 3 together, over, narrow, knit 1, narrow, over, narrow, knit 1, 
over, knit 2. 

Sixth Bow. — Over, narrow, knit 1, slip the second stitch over the last, 
o\er, narrow, knit 1, over, knit 3 together, over, knit 3, over, knit 3 to- 
gether, over, knit 10, over, narrow, knit 1. 

Seventh Bow. — Knit 3, over, narrow, knit 9, over, knit 1, over, knit 5, 
over, kuitl, over, knit 1, narrow, over, knit 1, narrow. 

Eighth Boio. — O^er, narrow, knit 1, slip the second stitch over the last, 
over, narrow, knit 3, narrow, over, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 3, narrow, 
over, knit 3 together, over, knit 6, over, narroAv, loiit 1, 

Ninth Bow. — Knit 3, over, narrow, knit 2, narrow, over, knit 3, over, 
narrow, knit 1, narrow, over, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 1, narrow, over, 
knit 1, narrow. 

Tenth Boio. — Over, narrow, knit 1, slip the second stitch over the last, 
over, knit 3 together, over, narrow, knit 1, narrow, over, knit 3 together, 
over, narrow, knit 1, narrow, over, narrow, knit 3, over, narrow, knit 1. 

Kepeat from first row. 



Knitting. 



69 



OPEXWOKK LACE EDGE. 

Cast on 24 stitches. (See Fig. 87. i 

First Maw. — Knit 4, over, narrow, and so on to the entl of the row, knit- 
ting the last stitch plain. 

Second Eoiv. — Knit plain. 

Third Bote. — Knit 5, over, narrow, to the end of the row. knitting the 
last stitch plain. 

Fourth Row. — Knit plain. 

Fifth Rou\—Km\,Q, over, 
narrow, to the end of the 
row, knitting the last stitch 
plain. 

Si.vt?t, Seventh, Eighth and 
Ninth Hows. — Plain. 

Tenth Bow. — Bind off 3 
stitrlies; knit the rest plain. 

Eleventh and Twelfth 
Ji'oic.s. — Knit plain. 

Repeat from first row. 

DIAMOND OPENWOKK LACE. 

This easy pattern is rep- 
resented in Fig. 88. 

Cast on 20 stitches and 
knit across plain. 

Fird Row. — Knit plain 
B'lu. 87. to the last (J stitches, thread 

over twice, narrow, knit 1 plain, over twice, knit :} plain. 

Secmd i?ow.— Knit 10 plain, over twice, narrow, knit 1 plain, over 
twice, narrow, knit the rest plain. 
Tliird J^ow.— Like the first. 
Fourth Bow.— Knit 12 plain, over twice, narrow, knit 1. over twice, 

narrow, knit 5. 

Fifth Roiv. — Like the first. 

Sixth Bow.— Knit 14, ovi-r twice, narrow, knit 1, over twice, narrow, 

knit 4. 

Seventh 7?.«(r. — Like tlu' lirst. 

Fii/lith Row.— Knit Ki, over twite, narrow, knit 1. over twice, narrow, 

knit :5. 

Mnth Row. — Knit all plain. 

Tenth Row.— S\iV 1 it'ik*' <'"'" ^^itl'»"lt knittin-;!. iiar.<.w. knit 1, over 
twice, narrow, knit 1, over t\\ i<e. narn.w. knit the rest plain. 




70 



Home Decokative A^'<)l:K. 



Eleventh Row. — Knit 5, over twice, narrow, knit 1, over twice, narrow, 
knit the rest plain. 

Twelfth Row. — Slip 1, narrow, knit 1. over twice, narrow, knit 1. over 
twice, narrow, knit the rest plain. 

Thirieenth Row. — Knit 6, over twice, narrow, knit 1, over twice, nar- 
row, knit the rest plain. 

Fourteenth Row. — Slip 1, narrow, knit 1. over twice, narrow, knit 1, 
over twice, narrow, knit the rest plain. 

Fifteenth Row. — Knit 7, over twice, narrow, knit 1, over twice, narrow, 
knit the rest plain. 

■■PMnnjI^MBHI Si.rteenfh Row. — Slip 1, 

narrow, knit 1, over twice, 
knit 1, over twice, narrow, 
knit the rest plain. 

Seventeenth Row. — Knit 
S. over twice, narrow, knit 
1. oxer twice, narrow, knit 
tile rest plain. 

Eiffhteenth Row. — Knit 
all ]»lain. 

Kepeat from the tirst 
row. 

KXITTJCl) TOKCIION J-.VCK. 

This is \ cry handsome 
in line thread. 
Fn;. 8S. Cast on :;4 stitches. 

First Row. — Slip 1, knit o, over, knit 2 together at the back (iuseit 
needle through the stitches back of the needle in the left hand), knit o, nar- 
row, over twice, purl 3, over, knit 2 together at the back (over after purl, 
means keep the thread in place and not throw it back), knit 3, over, knit 
2 together at the back, over and narrow six times, knit 1. 

,'<eeond Row. — Slipl, knit 2:5, purl 5. knit;}, knit 1 and purl 1 hotli in 
.same stitch, knit 1. 

Third Row. — Slip 1, knit o, over, knit 2 together at the hack, knit 1, 
narrow, over twice, ]>url o, over, knit 2 together at the back, knit ;>, ovtr 
and narrow six times, knit 2. 

Fourth Row. — Slip 1, knit 24, purl o, knit 5, knit 1 and purl 1 both in 
same stitch, knit 1. 

Fifth Row. — Slip 1, knit 7, over, knit :> stitches together, oxer twice, 
l)url 7, over, knit 2 together at the back, knit :>. over and narrow (I times, 
knit 1. 

Sixth Roir.- Slip 1, knit 2.'). purl 1, knit 7, knit 1 and purl I in same 
.stitch, knit 1. 




Knitting. 71 

Scrciifh Bow. — Slip 1, knit (>, narrow, over, knit !}, o\er, knit 2 together 
tit tlu- back, pnrl 3, narrow, over, knit :!, narrow, over, knit 1 at the l)aek, 
over and narrow 5 times, knit 2. 

Eiffhth llow. — Slip 1, knit 24, purl 3, knit 6, narrow, knit 1. 

Xinih Mow. — Slip 1, knit 4, narrow, over, knit 5, over, knit 2 together 
at the back, purl 1, narrow, over, knit 3, narrow, over, knit 1 at the back, 
over and narrow six times, knit 1. 

Tenth i?o«'.— Slip 1, knit 23, purl 5, knit 4, narrow, knit 1. 

Eleventh Row. — Slip 1, knit 2, narrow, over, knit 7, over, knit 3 to- 
getlier, over, knit 3, narrow, over, knit 1 at the l)ack, over and narrow six 
times, knit 2. 

Twelfth i?o»'.— Slip 1, knit 21, puii 7, knit 2, narrow, knit 2. 

Kepeat from the beginning. 

DEEP KXITTED I.ACE. 

Cast on 35 stitches. 

First Row. — Knit 4, over and narrow 15 times, over, knit 1. 
Second and All Even Bows. — Plain. 

lliird Boii\ — Knit 7, over and narrow 14 times, over, knit 1. 
Fifth Row. — Knit 10, over and narrow 13 times, over, knit 1. 
Seventh Bow. — Knit 13, over and narrow 12 times, over, knit 1. 
Ninth Bow. — Knit l(i, over and narrow 11 times, over, knit 1, 
Eleventh Bow. — Knit 19, over and narrow 10 times, over, knit 1. 
Thirteenth Bow. — Knit 22, over and narrow 9 times, over, knit 1. 
Fifteenth Row. — Knit 25, over and narrow 8 times, over, knit 1. 
Seventeenth Row. — Knit 28, over and narrow 7 times, over, knit 1. 
Xinefeenfh Row. — Knit 31, over and narrow 6 times, over, knit 1. 
Twenty-first Row. — Plain. 

Twenty-second Row. — Cast oft" 10 stitdies, knit the rest, tlien there will 
be 35 stitches left, with which proceed as l)efore. 

SCROLL-LEAF LACE. 

Cast on 23 stitches. 

Fivst Boio. — Slip 1, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, 
knit 9, over, narrow, over, narrow, over three times, narroAv. knit 1, over, 
narrow, knit 1. 

Second Row. — Knit 6, purl 1, knit 1, i)url 1 (making 4 stitches of the 
large loop), knit 14, purl 1, knit 2. 

Tliird Row. — Slip 1, knit 1, over,|Slip 1, knit 1, jjass slipped stitch over, 
knit 3, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 3, over, narrow, over, narrow, knit 
4, narrow, over, knit 2. 

Fourth Row. — Knit 17, puil 1, knit 5, purl 1, knit 2. 

Fifth J?«)('.— Slip 1, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pass .slip]>< d stitcli over, 



72 Home Decorative Work. 

knit 1, narrow, over twice, narrow twice, over twice, narrow, knit 2, over, 
narrow, over, narrow, knit 3, narrow, over, knit 2. 

Sixth Mow. — Knit 15, purl 1, knit 3, pari 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 2. 

Seventh Eoic. — Slip 1, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitcb 
over, knit 3, narrow, over, narrow, knit 5, over, narrow, over twice, narrow, 
knit 2, narrow, over, knit 2. 

Eighth Boiv. — Knit 17, purl 1, knit 5, purl 1, knit 2. 

Ninth Bmc. — Slip 1, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, 
knit 1, narrow, over twice, narrow twice, over twice, narrow, knit 4, over, 
narrow, over, narrow, knit 1, narrow, over, knit 2. 

Tenth Row. — Knit 15, purl 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 2. 

Eleventh Boic. — Slip 1, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitcb 
over, knit 3, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 7, over, narrow, over, narrow 
twice, over, knit 2. 

Twelfth Rote. — Knit 17, purl 1, knit 5, purl 1, knit 2. 

Thirteenth Row. — Slipl, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitdi 
over, knit 15, over, narrow, over, narrow, knit 3. 

Fourteenth Rmv. — Bind oif 3, knit 19, purl 1, knit 2. 

Commence again vnth the first row. 

BLOND-EDGE LACE. 

Cast on 21 stitches. 

First Row. — Slip 1, knit 1, thread over twice, purl 2 together, knit 2, 
over, narrow, knit 3, thread over twice, purl 2 together, knit 1 , thread over 
three times, knit 2, thread over twice, purl 2 together, knit 1 , thread over 
twice, purl 2 together. 

Second Row. — M .ko 1 (by putting right-hand needle under the thread 
and winding around it once), purl 2 together, knit 1, over twice, purl 2' 
together, knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 7, over 
twice, purl 2 together, knit 2. 

Third Row. — Slip 1, knit 1, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 3, over, 
narrow, knit 2, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 6, over twice, purl 2 to- 
gether, knit 1, over twice, purl 2 together. 

Fourth Row. — Make 1, purl 2 together, knit 1, over twice, purl 2 to- 
gether, knit 6, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 7, over twice, purl 2 to- 
gether, knit 2. 

Fifth Row. — Slip 1, knit 1, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 4, o\er, 
narrow, knit 1, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 6, over twice, purl 2 to- 
gether, knit 1 , over twice, purl 2 together. 

Sixth Row. — Make 1, purl 2 together, knit 1, over twice, purl 2 to- 
gether, knit 6, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 7, over twice, j)url 2 to- 
gether, knit 2. 

Seventh Bow. — Slip 1, knit 1, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 2, over, 



Knitting. 73 

narrow, knit 3, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 6, over twice, purl 2 to- 
gether, knit 1, over twice, purl 2 together. 

Eighth Row. — Make 1, purl 2 together, knit 1, over twice, purl 2 to- 
gether, knit 6, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 7, over twice, purl 2 to- 
gether, knit 2. 

Ninth Row. — Slip 1, knit 1, over twice, purl 2 together, knit ;{, over, 
narrow, knit 2, over twice, purl 2 together, knit G, over twice, purl 2 to- 
gether, knit 1 , over twice, purl 2 together. 

Tenth Row. — Make 1, purl 2 together, knit 1, over twice, purl 2 to- 
gether, knit 6, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 7, over twice, purl 2 to- 
gether, knit 2. 

Eleventh Row. — Slip 1, knit 1, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 4, over, 
narrow, knit 1, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 6, over twice, purl 2 to- 
gether, knit 1, over twice, purl 2 together. 

Twelfth Row. — Bind off 3, knit 7, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 7,. 
over twice, purl 2 together, knit 2. 

Commence again with the first row. 

ORANGE-LEAF LACE. 

This is very handsome for curtains, or may be used to trim the Orange- 
quarter quilt for which directions are given farther on. (See Fig. 89. ) 

Cast on 27 stitches; knit across plain. 

First Row. — Slip 1, 2 plain, wind thread around needle once, seam 2 to- 
gether, 2 plain, over twice, narrow, rest plain. (28 stitches on needle. ) 

Second Row. — Slip 1, 8 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 9 plain, seam 1, 1 
plain, seam 2, 2 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain. (30 stitches on needle. ) 

Third Row. — Slip 1, 2 plain, wind thread around needle once, seam 2 to- 
gether, 2 plain, seam 1,10 plain, seam 3, 9 i)lain. (30 stitches on needle. ) 

Fourth Row. — Slip 1, 9 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 12 plain, seam 2, 2- 
plain, over, narrow, 1 plain. (32 stitches on needle.) 

Fifth Rmo. — Slip 1, 2 plain, wind thread around needle once, seam 2 
together, 2 plain, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, 7 plain, seam Ft. 9 
plain. (34 stitches on needle. ) 

Sixth Roiv. — Slip 1, 10 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 10 plain, seam 1, 2 
plain, seam 1, 1 plain, seam 2, 2 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain. (36 stitches 
on needle. ) 

Seventh Row. Slip 1, 2 plain, wind thread around needle once, .seam 2 
together, 2 plain, seam 1, 12 plain, seam 7. 9 plain. (36 stitches on needle.) 

Eighth Row. — Slip 1, 11 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 16 plain, .seam 2, 'i 
plain, over, narrow, 1 plain. (38 stitches on needle.) 

Ninth Row. — Slip 1,2 plain, wind thread around needle once, seam "^ 
together, 2 plain, over twice, narrow, over twice, narr()^^ . over t^vi(•<^ nar- 
row, 7 plain, seam 9, 9 plain. (41 stitches on needle.) 



74 



Home Decorative Work. 



Tenth Row. — Slip 1, 12 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 1:1 plain, seam 1, 2 
plain, seam 1, 2 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, scam 2, 2 plain, over, narrow, 1 
plain. (43 stitches on needle.) 

Ehrenth llow. — Slip 1, 2 plain, wind thread around needle once, seam 2 
together, 2 plain, seam 1, 15 plain, seam 11,9 plain. (43 .stitches on needle.) 

Twelfth Row. — Slip 1, 13 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 21 plain, seam 2, 2 
plain, over, narrow, 1 plain. (45 stitches on needle.) 

Thirteenth Row. — Slip 1, 2 plain, wind thread around needle once, seam 
2 together, 2 plain, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, over tvpice, slip 




Fiu. 89. 
1, narrow, throw the slipped stitch over the narrowed one, over twice, nar- 
row, 7 plain, seam 13, 9 plain. (48 stitches on needle. ) 

Fourteenth Row. — Slip 1, 8 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, throw .slipped sfitch 
over, 9 plain, narrow, 8 plain, seam 1, 2 plain, seam 1, 2 plain, seam 1, 2 
])lain, seam 1, 1 plain, seam 2, 2 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain. (46 stitches 
on needle. ) 

Fifteenth Rmo. — Slip 1, 2 plain, wind thread around needle once, seam 
2 togetiuT, 2 plain, seam 1, 18 plain, seam 11, !> plain. (46 stitches on 
needle. 

Sixteenth Row. — Slip 1, 8 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, throw the slipped stitch 
•over plain one, 7 plain, narrow, 19 ])lain, seam 2, 2 plain, over, narrow, 1 
plain. (44 stitches on needle.) 

Seventeenth Row. — Slip 1. 2 plain, w iiid thread around needle once, seam 



Kmtting. 75 

:l tojietlier, 2 plain, over twice, uavrow, over twice, Tiari()\\ , over twice, kuit 
.'5 together, over twice, knit 15 together, over twice, iiaiTo\\ . 7 plain, seam !), 
y ])lain. (47 stitches ou needle.) 

Eighteenth JRow. — Slip 1, 8 plain, slip 1. 1 i)lain, throw slipped stitch 
oAer plain one, 5 plain, narrow, 8 plain, seam 1. :i plain, seam 1, :l ])lain, 
seam 1, 2 plain, seam 1, 2 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, seam 2, 2 plain, over, nar- 
row, 1 plain. (45 stitches on needle.) 

Nineteenth .Koif.— Slip 1, 2 plain, wind thread around needle once, seam 
2 together, 2 plain, seam 1, 21 plain, seam 7, i) plain. (4.") stitches on 
needle. ) 

Twentieth Jloir. — Slij* 1. "^ plain, slip 1, 1 plain, throw slij)ped stitch 
over. ',) plain, narrow, 22 plain, seam 2, 2 plain, over, narrow, 1 jdain. (43 
stitches on needle.) 

Tu-rnty-first Hoir. — Slip 1, 2 jilain, -wind thread around needle once, 
seam 2 together, 2 plain, over twice, narrow, over lAvice, narrow, over twice, 
knit :> together, over twice, knit 3 together, over twice, knit 3 together, 
o\ er twice, narrow, 7 plain, seam 5, 9 plain. (46 stitches on needle. ) 

Tirenfi/second Jloiv. — Slip 1, 8 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, throw slipped stitch 
over, 1 |>laiu, narrow, 8 plain, seam 1, 2 plain, seam 1, 2 jjlain, seam 1, 2 
])lain, seam 1, 2 plain, seam 1, 2 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, seam 2, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, 1 plain. (44 stitches on needle.) 

Tirrntfj-thinl Jiow. — Slip 1, 2 plain, Avind thread around needle once, 
seam 2 together, 2 plain, seam 1, 24 plain, seam 3, 9 plain. (44 .stitches on 
needle.) 

Tirenty-fourth Row. — Slip 1, 8 plain, knit 3 together, 2o jilain, .seam 2, 

2 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain. (42 stitches on needle.) 

Tu-eniij-fifth Bow. — Slip 1, 2 plain, wind thread around needle once, 
seam 2 together, 2 plain, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, over twice, 

3 together, over twice, 3 together, over twice, 3 together, over twice, 3 to- 
gether, over twice, narrow, 17 plain. (4o stitches on needle. ) 

Twenty-sixth Bow. — Slip 1. 17 plain, seam 1, 2 plain, seam 1, 2 plain, 
seam 1, 2 plain, seam 1, 2 plain, seam 1, 2 plain, seam 1. 1 jtlain, seam 2, 2 
l>lain, over, narrow^ 1 plain. (45 .stitches on needle.) 

Tirenfy-serenth Bow. — Slip 1, 2 plain, wind thread around needle once, 
.seam 2 together, 2 plain, seam 1, ,37 plain. (45 stitches on needle.) 

Twenty-eighth Brno, — Bind oft" 1>^ stitches, 19 plain, seam 2, 2 plain, 
over, narrow, 1 plain. 

MARIKTTA l..\ri:. 

Cast on 3;} stitches. 

First Row. — Kuit plain. 

Second Bow. — Slip 1, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, 
knit 1. over, narrow, knit 7, over, narrow twic*, over twice, knit 1, over> 
narrow, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, knit 2. 



70 Home Decorative Wokk. 

Third Row. — Slip 1, kuit 7, over, narrow, knit 2, purl 1. knit 2, over^ 
narrow, knit 10, over, narrow, knit 2, purl 1 , knit 2. 

Fourth Jioic. — Slip 1, knit 5, over, narrow, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 6, 
over, narrow, knit 5, over, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, over, narrow, 
over, kuit 2. 

Fifth Bow. — Slip 1, knit 8, over, narrow, knit 5, over, narrow, knit 10, 
over, narrow, knit 5. 

Sixth Row. — Slip 1, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 1, over, naSTOw, 
knit 3, over, narrow, knit 5, over, narrow twice, over twice, narrow, over, 
narrow, knit 2, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, knit 2. 

Seventh Row. — Slip 1, knit 9, over, narrow, knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, over, 
narrow, knit 10, over, narrow, knit 2, purl 1, knit 2. 

Eighth Row. — Slip 1, knit 5, over, narrow, knit 4, over, narrow, knit 4, 
over, narrow, knit 5, over, narrow, knit 3, over, narrow, over, narrow, 
over, knit 2. 

Ninth Row. — Slip 1, knit 10, over, narrow, knit 5, over, narrow, knit 10, 
over, narrow, knit 5. 

Tenth Row. — Slip 1, narrow, over twice, narrow, kuit 1, over, narrow, 
knit 5, over, narrow, kuit 3, over, narrow twice, over twice, narrow, knit 1, 
over, narrow, knit 4, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, knit 2. 

Eleventh Roiv. — Slip 1, knit 11, over, narrow, knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, 
over, narrow, knit 10, over, narrow, knit 2, purl 1 , knit 2. 

Twelfth Row. — Slip 1, knit 5, over, narrow, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 
2, over, narrow, knit 5, over, naiTOW, knit 5, over, narrow, over, narrow, 
over, knit 2. 

Thirteenth Row. — Slip 1, kuit 12, over, narrow, knit ."), over, narrow, 
kuit 10, over, narrow, kuit 5. 

Fourteenth Row. — Slip 1, narrow, over twice, narrow, kuit 1, over, nar- 
row, knit 7, over, narrow, kuit 1, over, uarrow twice, over twice, narrow, 
knit 1, over, uarrow, knit 12. 

Fifteenth Row. — ^Bind off 5, knit 6, over, narrow, knit 2, purl ], kuit 2, 
over, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 7, over, narrow, knit 2, purl 1. kuit 2. 

You should now have 33 stitches again and the holes in the iu.sertion 
will run up in makino; the next scallop and down in the next, and s<> ou. 

DIAMOND LACE. 

Cast ou IH .stitches; kuit across plain. Always slij) the lirst stitfli at 
the top. 

First Row. — Kuit 5, narrow, over, narrow, kuit 1, over, knit 3, over,, 
narrow, knit 1, over, knit 2. 

Second and All Even Rows. — Kuit plain. 

Third Roic. — Knit 4, uarrow. over. aarroAv, kuit 1. over, knit "i. over 
narrow, kuit 1. o\er. kuil 2. 



Knitting. 77 

Fifth Row. — Knit 3, narrow, over, narrow, knit 1, over, knit 7, over, 
narrow, knit 1, over, knit 2. 

Seventh Eow. — Knit 2, narrow, over, narrow, knit 1, over, knit 9, over, 
narrow, knit 1, over, knit 2. 

Ninth Eow. — Knit 4, over, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 5, narrow, 
over, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 1. 

Eleventh Bote. — Knit 5, over, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 3, nar- 
row, over, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 1. 

Thirteenth Eow. — Knit 6, over, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 1, 
narrow, over, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 1. 

Fifteenth Eow. — Knit 7, over, narrow, knit 1, over, slip 1, narrow, throw 
slipped stitch over, over, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 1. 

Repeat. 

FEATHEK LACE. 

Cast on 14 stitches. 

First Eoto. — Knit 2, over twice, seam 2 together, over twice, narrow, 
■over twice, seam 2 together, knit 1, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, 
knitl. 

Second Eow. — Knit 3, seam 1, knit 2, seam 1, knit 2, over twice, seam 2 
together, knit 1, seam 1, knit 1, over twice, "seam 2 together, knit 1. 

Third Eow. — Knit 2, over twice, seam 2 together, narrow, knit 1, over 
twice, seam two together, knit 3, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, 
knit 1. 

Fourth Eow. — Knit 3, seam 1, knit 2, seam 1, knit 4, over twice, seam 2 
together, knit 2, over twice, seam 2 together, knit 1. 

Fifth Eoiv. — Knit 2, over twice, seam 2 together, over twice, narrow, 
over twice, seam 2 together, knit 5, over twice, narrow, knit 1. 

Sixth Eow. — Knit 3, seam 1, knit 2, seam 1, knit 6, over twice, seam 2 
together, knit 1, seam 1, knit 1, over twice, seam 2 together, knit 1. 

Seventh Eow. — Knit 2, over twice, seam 2 together, narrow, knit 1, over 
twice, seam 2 together, knit 7, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, knitl. 

Eighth Eow. — Knit 3, seam 1, knit 2, seam 1, knit 8, over twice, seam 2 
together, knit 2, over twice, seam 2 together, knit 1. 

Ninth Eou\ — Knit 2, over twice, seam 2 together, over twice, narrow, 
•over twice, seam 2 together, knit 9, over twice, nan-ow, over twice, narrow, 
knit 1. 

Tenth Eow. — Knit 3, seam 1, knit 2, seam 1, knit 10, over twice, seam 2 
together, knit 1, seam 1, knit 1, over twice, seam 2 together, knit 1. 

Eleventh Eow.— Knit 2, over twice, seam 2 together, narrow, knit 1, 
over twice, seam 2 together, rest plain. 

Twelfth Eow. — Bind oil" 9, knit 6, over twice, seanx 2 together, knit 2, 
over twice, seam 2 together, knit 1. 

Repeat from the beginning. 



78 Home Decokativk \\^jkk. 

MYRTLE-LEAF LACE, 

Cast on ^(j stitches. 

First Eoir. — Knit 2, over, narrow, knit 1, over, knit 2, slip 1, knit 2" 
together and throw the slip-stitch over, knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 2, 
slip 1, knit 2 together and throw the slip-stitch over, knit 2, over, knit, 2, 
over, narrow, over twice, knit 2. There should now he 28 stitches. 

Second How. — Knit 3, purl 1, knit 1, over, narrow, purl 17. knit 1, 
over, nj.rrow, knit 1. 

Third Bow. — Knit 2, over, narrow, knit 2, ovef, knit 1, slip 1, knit 2 
together and throw the slip-stitch over, knit 1, over, knit o, over, knit 1, 
•slip ], knit 2 together and throw the slip-stitch over, knit 1, over, knit 3, 
over, narrow, knit 4. (Twenty -eight stitches. ) 

Fourth l^ow. — Knit 5, over, narrow, purl 17, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 1. 

Fifth Mow. — Knit "?., over, narrow, knit 3, over, slip 1, laiit 2 together 
and throw the slip-stitch over, over, knit 5, over, slip 1, knit 2 together and 
thro V the slip-stitch over, over, knit 4, over, narrow, over twice, knit 2, 
narrow, over twice. (Thirty-one stitches. ) 

Sixth Bow. — Knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, over, narrow, purl 
17, knit 1 , over, narrow, knit 1. 

Seventh Bow. — Knit 2, over, narrow, narrow, knit 2, over, knit 1 , over, 
knit 2, slip 1, knit 2 together, throw the slip-stitch over, knit 2, over, knit 
1, over, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1 and throw the slip-stitch over, knit 1, over, 
narrow, knit 7. 

Eiffhth Bow. — Knit 8, over, uai'row, purl 17, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 1. 

Ninth Bote. — Knit 2, over, narrow, narrow, knit 1, over, knit 3, over, 
knit 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, throw the slip-stitch over, knit 1, over, knit 
"., over, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1 and throw the slip-stitch over, knit 1, over, 
narrow, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 1. 
(Thirty-four stitches.) 

Tenth Boiv. — Knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, over, 
narrow, purl 17, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 1. 

Eleventh Bow. — Knit 2, over, narrow, narrow, over, knit 5, over, slip 1, 
knit 2 together, throw the slip-stitch over, over, knit 5, over, slip 1 , knit 1 
and throw the slip-stitch over, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 10. (Thirty-four 
stitches.) 

Twelfth Boiv. — Cast olf 8 stitches, knit 2, over, nai-row, purl 17. knit 1, 
over, narrow, knit 1. 

Rej)eat from the beginning. 

This makes a ^('ry pretty lace, three inches wide, when knit of No. 12 
thread. 

HEAUT LACE. 
This prett}' lace is shown in Fig. 90. 
Cast on IT) stitches and knit across plain. 



Knitting. 



TO 



First JiOir. Knit 2, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 2, over twite, nar- 
row, o\er, knit ], i)\vr, knit 1, over twice, narrow, knit 1, over twice, knit 2. 
Second Row. — Knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 6, knit 1, purl 1, knit 2, over 
twice, purl 2 together, knit 2. 

Third Row. — Knit 2, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 2, over twice, nar- 
row, knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 3, over twice, uarrow, knit 5. 

Fourth Row. — Bind otf 2, knit 4, purl 10, knit 1, inirl 1, knit 2, over 
twice, purl 2 together, knit 2. 

Fifth Row. — Knit 2, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 2. over twice, nar- 
row, knit 4, over, knit 1, over, knit o, over twice, narrow, knit 1, over 
twice, knit 2. 

Sixth Row. — Knit 3, piirl 1, knit 3, purl 14, knit 1, purl 1. knit 2, over 
twice, purl 2 together, knit 2. 

Seventh Row. — Knit 2. over twice. ]iuil 2 together, knit 1, narrow, over 

twice, knit 3 together, knit 
it, knit 3 together, over twice, 
narrow, knit o. 

Fitjhth Row. —Bind off 2, 
knit 4, purl 12, knit 1, purl 
1, knit 2, over twice, purl 2 
together, knit 2. 

Xinth Row. — Knit 2, over 
twice, purl 2 together, knit 1, 
narrow, over twice, knit 3 
together, knit 7, knit 3 to- 
gether, over twice, narrow, 




purl 10, knit 1, purl 1, knit 2, over 



Fiu. uo. 
knit 1, over twice, knit 2. 

Tenth Roic. — Knit 3, purl 1. knit 
twice, purl 2 together, knit 2. 

Eleventh Row. — Knit 2. over twice, purl 2 together, knit 1, narrow, over 
twice, knit 3 together, knit T), knit 3 together, over twice, uarrow, knit ;"). 

Tivelfth Row. — Kind off 2, knit 4, ])url ><, knit 1, purl 1, knit 2, over 
twice, purl 2 together, knit 2. 

Thirteenth Row. — Knit 2, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 1, narrow, 
over twice, knit 3 together, knit 3, knit 3 together, over twice, narrow, knit 
1, over twice, knit 2. 

Fourteenth Row. — Knit :'., purl 1, knit 3, purl 6, knit 1, ]iurl 1, knit 2, 
over twice, purl 2 together, knit 2. 

Fifteenth Row. — Knit 2. over twice, purl 2 together, kuit 1, uanow. 
over twice, knit 3 together, kuit 4 together, slip iirst narroAved stitch o^•er 
second narrowed .stitch, over twice, narrow, knit .'). 

Si.vfeenth Row. — Bind off 2, kuit 4, purl 2, knit 1. i>url 1, knit 2, over 
twice, purl 2 together, knit 2. Repeat from first row. 



80 Home DECOKATI^■E Work. 



OPENWORK LACE. 

Cast on 15 stitches and knit across plain. (See Fig. 91.) 
First Bote. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain, o^■er twice, seam 2 
together, over twice, seam 2 together, 1 plain, over, narroAv, over three 
times, narrow, 1 plain. 

Second Row. — Two plain, knit 1 loop plain, drop 1, seam 1, knit the 
remaining stitches plain. 

Till id Row. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over, narrow, (i plain, over, narrow, knit 
the remainder plain. 

Fourth Roto. — All plain. 

Fifth Row. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 
together, over twice, seam 2 together, 1 plain, over, narrow, over 3 times, 
narrow, over 3 times, narrow. 

Sixth Row. — 1 plain, knit 
1 looj), drop 1, seam 1, knit 1 
loop, drop 1, seam 1, knit re- 
mainder plain. 

Seventh Row. — Slip 1, 1 
plain, over, nari'ow, 6 plain, 
over, narrow, remainder plain. 
Eighth Row. — All plain. 
Ninth Row. — Slip 1, 1 
plain, o^er, narrow, 1 plain, 
(over twice, seam 2 together) 
twice, 1 plain, over, narrow, 
(over three times, narrow) 
three times. 

Fig. 91. Tenth Rou\—{\ plain, knit 

1 loop plain, drop 1, seam 1) three times, knit remainder plain. 

Eleventh i?oit).— Slip 1, 1 plain, over, narrow, 6 plain, over, narrow, 
remainder plain. 

Twelfth Row. — Bind off 6 stitches, remainder plain. You should have 
l.') stitches after binding off, to start again. 

S.VW-TEETH EDGE. 

Cast on 12 stitches, and knit across plain. (See Fig. 92.) 

First Row. — Two plain, o\ev twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain, over, nar- 
row, over, narrow, over, 2 i)lain. 

Second Row. — Knit bat'k plain till 4 stitches remain on the needle, over 
twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Third Rotv. — Two ])lain, over twice, seam 2 together, 3 plain, over, nar- 
row, over, narrow, over, 2 plain. 




Knitting. 



81 



i'tnirth Hiiir. Knit l)ack jdain till 4 stitches remain on iieodlf. over 
twiee, seam 'Z together, 2 plain. 

Fifth Row. — Two plain, over twiee, seam "i together. 4 jtlain, over, nar- 
row, over, narrow, over, 2 plain. 

Sixth Bow. — Knit back plain till 4 stitches remain on the needle, over 
twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Seventh Eon\—^Two plain, over twiee. seam 2 together, r, plain, over, 
narrow, over, narrow, over, 2 plain. 

Eif/hth lioir.— Knit back plain till 4 stitches are left on the needle, 
over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

XintJl Foir. — Two plain, over twiee, seam 2 together, remaining 12 phiin. 

Tenth i?«ir. Bind off 4. knit ])lain to la.st 4, over twice, seam 2 together, 
2 plain. 

DELICATE RiniiEO I..\(K. 

Note. — In knitting this 
pattei'n, where the thread is 
already over the needle 
twice, the first loop is to be 
knit and the second pnrled, 
in places where the nine 
large holes form the dia- 
monds; but in forming the 
feathery line thi-ough the 
middle of the pattern, and 
in the top row of holes, only 
the first loop is u.sed, the 
second being dropped. When 
directed to put the ' ' thread 
over twice ' ' before purling, 
it will seem to be over three 
Fig. 92. times, owing to bringing 

the thread forward" in order to i)url the next stitch: but when this is done, 
only two loops will apjjcar on the needle. 
. Cast on .">9 stitches and knit across plain. 
First Bow. — Slij) 1, knit 0, * throw thread over, knit 2 together,* re- 
peat from * to * 14 times in all; then throw thread over twice, purl 2 to- 
gether, knit 4, narrow, thread over twice, narrow, knit 4, thread over, nar- 
row, thread over, narrow, thread over 4 times, narmw. narrow^ thread over, 
knit 2. 

Siitnid lliiiv. — Slip ], knit .">. purl 1, knit 1, i)url 1 (making 4 stitclK\s 
where the thread was j)ut over 4 times), knit 10, jmrl 1 (in the sec<md loojt), 
knit ."), thread over twice. i»url 2 together (drop the second loop without 
knitting), purl :>."). 
() 




82 



Home Decorativi: AA^okk. 



Third Jiou'. — Slip 1, knit 34, thread over twice, purl 2 together (drop 
the second loo]> without knitting), knit *2, narrow, thread over twice, nar- 
row, narrow, thread over twice, narrow, knit 3, thread over, narrow, thread 
over, narrow, knit 4, narrow, thread over, knit 2. 

Fourth Row. — Slip 1, knit 16, purl 1 (in the second loop), knit 3, purl 1. 
knit 3. thread over twice, purl 2 together, purl 35. 




Fig. 93. 

Fifth Row.— Slip 1, knit 6, * thread over, knit 2 together;* repeat from 
* to * 14 times in all; thread over twice, purl 2 together, narrow, thread 
over twice, narrow, narrow, thread over twice, narrow, narrow, thread over 
twice, narrow, knit 2, thread over, narrow, thread over, narrow, knit 3, 
narrow, thread over, knit 2. 

Sixth i?©!!;.— Slip 1, knit 14, purl 1, knit 3. purl 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 
1, thread over twice, purl 2 together, purl 3."). 



Knitting. 



83 



Seventh How. — Slip 1, knit 34, thread over twice, piul 2 together, Knit 

2, narrow, thread over twice, narrow, narrow, thread over twice, narrow, 
knit 5, threatl over, narrow, thread over, narrow, knit 2, uanow, thread 
over, knit 2. 

Eighth Eow. — Slip 1, knit 16, purl 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 3, purl 1, knit 

3, thread over twice, purl 2 together, knit 28, purl 7. 

Ninth Bow. — Slip 1, knit 6, purl 28, thread over twice, purl 2 together, 
knit 4, narrow, thread over twice, narrow, knit 8, thread over, narrow, 
thread over, naiTow, knit 1, narrow, thread over, knit 2. 

Tenth Bow. — Slip 1, knit 18, purl 1, knit o, thread over twice, purl 2 
together, knit 28, purl 7. 

Eleventh Bow. — Slip 1, knit 6, purl 28, thread over twice, purl 2 to- 
gether, knit 17, thread over, narrow, thread over, narrow, narrow, thread 
over, knit 2. 

Twelfth Bow. — Slip 1, knit 24, thread over twice, purl 2 together, knit 
28, purl 7. 

TJdrteenth Bow. — Slip 1, knit 6, purl 26, thread over twice, purl 2 to- 
gether, knit 18, thread over, 
narrow, thread over, narrow, 
knit 3. 

Fourteenth Bow. — Slip and 
l)ind 3, knit 21, thread over 
twice, purl 2 together, purl 35. 




Eepeat from the first row. 
This is without the top 
row of holes; if those are de- 
sired, slip 1, knit 4, put thread 
over twice, and narrow, at the 
Fig. 94. beginning of all the odd rows. 

Knitted in f)ne thread and with fine needles, this makes a delicate and 
fihuy lace. 

FLUTED BORDER. 

This pattern is shown in Fig. 94. 

If knitted with thick cotton, this border will be suitable for trimming a 
counterpane; if fijie cotton is used, it will form a pretty child's collar. In 
saxonj', it makes a beautiful edging for flannel skirts. 

To make a collar, begin by casting on two himdred and twenty stitches, 
then work six rows backward and forward, alternately knitting four stitches 
and purling two. 

In the second, fourth and sixth rows, the four stitches are purled, and 
the two are knitted. 

Seccnth Bote. — Purl 2, thread over, knit 2, purl 2; repeat. 

Eighth i?oii'.— Alternately purl 5 and knit 2. All the rows with even 



84 Home IJecukatia e AVokk. 

numbers are knitted like tliis, except that the number of the knitted stitches 
is increased l)y two in each of them; Ave will not. therelbre, hencetbrth 
juention these rows. 

Xinih Eow. — Knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 2, purl 2; repeat. 

Eleventh Bow. — Knit 2, over, knit 3, over, knit 2, purl 2; repeat. 

Thirteenth Row. — Knit 2, over, knit 5, over, knit 2, purl 2; repeat. 

The pattern is continued in the same manner. The small gores formed 
Ijetween the ribs are increased by two stitches in every second roM'. Each of 
the.se gores has thirteen stitches in the twenty-first row, which is the last. 
Cast olf all the stitches after this row. Take a crochet needle, and with the 
same material work one stitch of double crochet in every stitch of the sel- 
vedge, then the two following rows for the edging. 

First Row. — Alternately one treble, one chain, under which miss one 
stitdi. 

Second Row. — Alternately one double over one treble of preceding row, 
one purl (that is, five chain and one slip-stitch in the first), under which 
miss one. 

Over the first row of the knitting, work one row of close double crochet 
for the top heading. If for a collar, add a row of small scallops. 

Knitted Edgings. 
■ liAHV ■' i;i>(;iN(;. 

Cast on 8 stitches; knit across plain. 

First Row. — Thread over needle, i)url 2 together, thread over, purl 2 
together, knit 1, over, knit 1, over, knit 2. 

Second Row. — Thread over, knit fi, thread over twice, purl 2 together, 
thread over, purl 2 together. 

Tliird Row. — Thread over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2 together, knit 7. 

Fourth Row. — Cast 00*3, knit ?>, over twice, purl 2 together, over twice, 
purl 2 together. 

K'l'peat from fir.st row. 

This pattern can be made wider l>y ])Uttiug on one more stitch and 
making one more eyelet and casting off four .stitches; or, two stitches, niak- 
in<' two more eyelets, and casting off five stitches. Either pattern, knit 
with No. 100 cotton, trims ruffles beautifully, or infants' linen or cambric 
clothing. Cotton is preferable to linen thread, as the linen wears rough and 
does not last as long as cotton. 

POiXTEI) EtHJIXG. 

Cast on 8 stitches and knit across plain. 

First Ti'oir.— Thread round needle, seam 2 together, thread over twice, 
seam 2 together, knit 1, thread over twice, seam 2 together, knit 1. 



Kmttinc. 



S5 



,S('(OtiiI Jiow. — Tlin'iul around needle makiiif^ 1 stiteli, knit '.\. seam 1, 
knit 1, tliread over twiee. seam 2 together, tliread over twice, seam 'l 
together. 

Tliird liou'. — Thread around needle, seam 2 logetlier. Iliread o\tr twiee, 
seam 2 together, knit 1. thread over twice, seam 2 together. thr«'ad over 
twice, seam 2 together, knit 1. 

Fourlh Row. — Thread aronud needle, knit :>. seam 1, knit 2, seam 1. knit 
1, thread over twice, seam 2 together, thread over twice, seam 3 togiither. 

Fifth Row. — Thread around needle, .seam 2 together, tliread over twice, 
seam 2 together, knit !). 

Sicth Row. — Ca.st off a. knit :t. thread over twice, seam 2 together, 
thread over twice, seam 2 together. 

Kepeat from first row. 

Beautiful knit of No. DO or 100 spool cotton. 

Cast on 8 stitches and knit across ]ilain. 

Fir.'<f Roir. — Slip ]. knit 1. tliread over twice, purl 2 together, knit 2, 

thread over twice, knit 1, 
thread over, knit 1. 

Second E w. — Knit 4, iiurl 
1. knit 2, thread over twice, 
|)Uil 2 together, knit 2. 

Tiiird iJoic— Slip 1, knit 
1, thread over twice, puil 2 
l*'i<; 9-"» together, knit the rest plain. 

Foitrf/i Row. — liind off;!, knit :>, over twice, jmrl 2 together, knit 2. 
Repeat from the first. 

ItKAt Tlini. KlHiJXCi. 

Ca.st on T stitches; knit across plain. 

FiiKt Row. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over, narrow, over. 1 plain, over, 2 ]ilaiu. 

Seco)i(l Row. — Over, narrow, seam 4. 1 plain, over, narrow. 

'F/iird Row. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over, narrow, over, 3 plain, over. 2 ])laiu. 

Fourth Row. — Over, uaiTow, seam (J, 1 plain, o\er, narrow. 

Fifth Row. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over, narrow, over, 1 plain, over, slip 1. 
iiarrow, pass .slipped stitch over, over, 1 plain, over, 2 ]»lain. 

Si.vth Row. — Over, narrow, .seam 8, 1 plain, over, narrow. 

Seventh Row. — Slip 1. 1 ]>lain. over, narrow, over, :{ plain, over, 1 plain, 
over. 15 plain, over, 2 ])lain. 

Eighth Row. — Over, narrow, seam 12, 1 plain, over, narrow. 

Xinth R)ir. — Slip 1. 1 i)lain, over, slip 1, narrow, pass slippe«l stit<h 
over, over, slip 1. narrow. ])ass slipped stitch over. over. :i jiiain. over, slip 
1, narrow, pass .slipped stitch over, over, narrow. 1 •jilaiii. 




80 Home Decorative A\'()kk. 

Tenth Row. — Ovei', narrow, seam 10, 1 plain, over, nanow. 

Eleventh Row. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over, slip 1, narrow, pass slipped stitch 
over, narrow, over, slip 1, nari'ow, pass slipped stitch OAer, over, slip 1, 
narrow, pass slipped stitch o\er, narrow. 

Twelfth Row. — Over, narrow, seam 5, 1 plain, over, narrow. 

Thirteenth Row. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over, slip 1, knit 3 stitches together, 
l)a.ss slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, narrow, pass slipped stitch over. 1 plain. 

Fourteenth Row. — Over, narrow, seam 2, 1 plain, over, narrow. 

A PRETTY EDGE. 
Ca.st on 6 stitches; knit across plain. 
Fir.st Row. — Two plain, over, narrow, over, 2 jdaiu. 
Second Row. — Four plain, seam 1, 2 plain. 
Third Row. — Two plain, over, narrow, 1 plain, over, 2 plain. 
Fourth Row. — Five plain, seam 1, 2 plain. 
Fifth Roir. — Two plain, over, narrow, 2 plain, over, 2 plain. 
Sixth Row.— Six plain, seam 1, 2 plain. 

Seventh Row. — Two plain, over, narrow, 3 i)lain, over, 2 plain. 
Eighth Row. — Seven plain, seam 1, 2 plain. 

Xinth Row. — Two i)lain, over, narrow, 2 plain, over twice, narrow, 1 
plain, over, 2 plain. 

Tenth Row. — Six plain, seam 1, 3 plain, seam 1. 2 plain. 

Elerenih Row. — Two plain, o^er, narrow, 4 plain, narrow, over, narrow, 

1 ]>laiu. 

Twelfth Row. — Three plain, harrow. 1 ]ilaiu, narrow, 1 plain, seam 1, 

2 plain. 

Tliirtecnih Roir. — Two ])lain, o\er, narrow, 1 i)lain, narrow, over, nar- 
row, 1 plain. 

Fourteenth Row. — Three plain, narrow, 1 plain, seam 1, 2 plain. 

Fifteenth Row. -Two Y)\aiu. over, narrow, 1 plain, slip narrowed stitch 
over, over, narrow, 1 plain. 

Si.deenth Row. — Four plain, seam 1, 2 plain. 

In beginning the pattern, commence at the third row; in the second, 
fourth, sixth, eighth, tenth, twelfth, fourteenth and sixteenth rows, knit 
the lirst stitch. 

H.UVEK-1-EAF EDGING. 

Cast on 10 stitches; knit across plain. (See Fig. 9G.) 
Fir.'it Row. — Two plain, over, narrow, over twice, narrow, 4 ])laiii. 
Second Row. — Six plain, seam 1, 1 plain, seam 1, 2 plain. 
Third Rou\ — Two plain, over, narrow, 7 plain. 
Fourth Row. — Eight i)lain, over, narrow, 1 plain. 

Fifth Row. — Tavo ])lain, over, narrow, 1 plain. <>\ir twice, narrow, over 
twice, narrow, 2 plain. 



Kmttixc. 



87 



Si.iih Bow. — Four iilain. seam 1. 2 plaiu, seam 1, 2 plain, over, narrow, 
1 plain. 

Seirnl/i Boir. — Two plain, over, narrow, 9 plain. 
Kiijhih Kou\ — Bind t>rt";>, (> plain, over, narrow, 1 plain. 
If.VLF-lXClI KD(iIX<;. 

Cast on o stitches and knit across plain. 

/'7/-.sY Uow. — Slip 1, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 1. over twice, knit 2. 
Svcond Row. — Slip 1, knit 2. purl 1. knit 1, over twice, purl 2 together, 
knit 1. 

Third Row. — Slij} 1, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 5. 

Fonrfh Row. — Cast oft' 2, knit 2, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 1. 

iicpeat from the first. 

TKEFOir, KlXilXii. 



C.n.st on 1 1 stitches. 




Fig. 96. 



Fir.^t Ro)r. — Slip 1, knit 5, 
thread over, knit 3 together, 
thread over, knit 2. 

Second Roic. — Slip 1, knit 10. 

Third i?OM'.— Slip 1, knit 3, 
narrow, over, knit 3, over, 
knit 2. 

Fourth Row. — Slip 1, knit 

n. 

Fifth ^oif.— Slip 1, knit 2, 
narrow, over, knit 5, o\er. knit 2. 



Sixth .SoH-.— Slip 1, knit 12. 

Seventh Row. — Slip 1, knit 1, narrow, over, knit 7. oxer, knit 2. 

Eiffhth ii'oic— Slip 1, knit 13. 

Xinth Row. — Slip 1. knit 3, over, n.urow. knit 3. narrow, over, nar- 
row, knit 1. 

Tenth AVw.— Slip 1, knit 12. 

Elerrnth Row. — Slip 1, knit 4, ovci-. narrow, knit 1. narrow, over, nar- 
row, knit 1. 

Twelfth Row. —i^Wp 1, knit 11. 

Thirteenth Row. — Slip 1. knit .">, over, knit 3 together, oxer, narrow, 
knit 1. 

Fonrtrinth i>V>ir.— Slip 1. knit 10. 

FKKXCH Eixii:. 

( ast on 13 .stitches and knit across plain. 

Fir.ft Ron-. — Knit 3, over, narrow, knit 2, over, narrow, knit I. 

Svrond h'otr. Knit 2, over lour times, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 2, 
over, narrow, laiit :!. 



88 



Home ])ECOKATn k A\ohk. 



Third Jiow. — Knit 5, over, narrow, knit •>. over, narrow, knit ], ])nrl 1, 
knit 1, purl 1, knit ;2. 

Fourth i?o/r. — Knit 8, over, narrow, knit 2. over, narrow, knit :{. 
Fifth It'oir. — Knit 5, over, narrow, knit ;2, o\e\\ narrow, knit (i. 
Si.rth lioiv. — Knit K), over, narrow, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 1. 
Scrciifh Eoir. — Knit 'A. over, iiarrow, knit 2, over, narrow, knit 8. 
Kif/hfh Row.— Bind off 4 stitches, knit 12. 
Ivepeat from tlie lirst row. 

SEA-SHELL EI)(1E, 
Cast on 12 stitehes; knit across plain. 

First Jtow. — Two plain, thread over twice, narrow. (I ]>lain. over twice, 
senni 2 together. 

Second Bow. — Wiml thread around needle once, seam 2 together. 7 

plain, knit first loop plain, 
seam second loop, 2 plain. 

niird Bow. — E 1 e v e n 
plain, over twice, .seam 2 to- 
gether. 

Fourth B o ir. — W i n d 
thread around needle once, 
seam 2 together, 11 ])lain. 

Fifth Bow. ^Two plain, 
over twice, narrow, over 
Fig. 97 twice, narrow. .') plain, over 

twic«', seam 2 together. 

Si.cih Bow. — Wind thread arouiul needle once, seam 2 togetlier, (! plain, 
knit 1 loop plain, seam 1 loo)i, 1 plain, .seam 1 loop, 2 ])lain. 
Seventh Bow. — Thirteen ])lain. over twice, seam 2 together. 
Kif/hth Bdir. — Wind thread around needle once, seam 2 together, ll> 
jdain. 

\inth Bow. — Two plain, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, over 
twici', narrow, 5 plain, over twice, seam 2 together. 

Tenth Bow. — Wind thread around needle, seam 2 together, (i plain, knit 
] loo]), seam 1 loop, 1 plain, knit 1 loop, seam 1 loop, 1 jdain, knit 1 loop, 
scam 1 loop, 2 plain. 

Eleventh Bow. — Eleven plain, take eleventh hack on left-haiwl needle, 
sliji (i stitches over that stitch, over twice, seam 2 togethei'. 

Twelfth Bow. — Wind tlnead around nee<lle once, seam 2 logether. 10 
plain. 

emim:k(»h's i..\(e. 
Cast on 9 stitches: knit across ]>lain. 

Firxi Bow. — Slip 1, 2 plain, tliread over, narrow, 1 jilain. o\er twice, 
narrow, 1 jilain. 




KMTTIN(i. 89 

Seeoiitl Hoir. — Two jtlaiii. knit 1 looji. «:iin 1 looj). .'J ]ilaiii, over, nar- 
row, 1 ))lain. 

Third Boir. — Slip 1, ~ )»lain, over, narn)w, ."> ])lain. 

FourIJi I'oir. — Seven ])lain, over, narrow, 1 plain. 

Fifth Bow. — Slip 1, 2 plain, over, narrow, 1 ])lain. over Iwic*'. narrow, 
over twice, narrow. 

Sixth Row. — One plain, 1 loop plain, seam 1 loop, 1 plain. 1 loop plain, 
seam 1 loop, 3 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain. 

Seventh Row. — Slip 1, 2 plain, over, narrow, 7 plain. 

Eif/hfh Row. — Bind off :{. "> plain, over, nari"ow. 1 ])lain. 

t>AK-LEAF EIMiK. 

Cast on 10 .stitches and knit across plain. 

First Row. — Two plain, over twice, seam 2 together. 1 plain, over twice, 
narrow, over twice, narrow, 1 plain. 

' Second Row. — Two jilain, 1 loop plain, seam 1 loop. 1 plain. 1 loop 
plain, seam 1 loop, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Tlnrd Row. — Two plain, over twice, .seam 2 together, :> plain, oxci- twice, 
narrow, over twice, narrow, 1 plain. 

Fourth Row. — Two plain, knit 1 loop, seam 1 loo]i. 1 ])lain. knit 1 loop, 
seam 1 loop, 3 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain 

Fifth Row. — Two plain, over twice, seam 2 together, ."> plain, ovir 1\\ ice, 
narrow, over twice, narrow, 1 plain. 

Sixth Rou\ — Two plain, knit 1 loop, seam 1 loop, 1 i)lain. knit 1 loop, 
seam 1 looj), 5 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Seventh Row. — Two plain, over twice, seam 2 togcth< r. 7 jilain. over 
twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, 1 plain, 

Eiffhth Row. — Two plain, knit 1 loop, seam 1 loop. 1 plain, knit I loo)>, 
seam 1 loop, 7 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Xinth Row. — Two plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 14 ))lain. 

Tenth Row. — Bind off" till ten .stitches remain on needle. ."> ]ilain. over 
twice, seam 2 together, 2 i)lain. 

OPKXWOKK-POIXT ErxJK. 

This is very pretty in No. .">(» linen thread. 

Cast on 10 stitches. 

First Row. — Knif 3, thread over twice, juirl 2 togethei. knit 2. over 
twice, narrow, knit 1. 

Second Row. — Knit 3, pnrl 1, knit 2. over twice, i)nrl 2 together, knit 3. 

Tliird y>'o(r. — Knit 3, over twice, pnrl 2 together, knit (i. 

Fourth Row. — Knit 6, over twice, purl 2 together, knit .">. 

Fifth Row. — Knit 3, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 2. oxer Ixvice, 
knit 1, over twice, narrow, ktiit 1. 



90 Home Decoratia e AVokk. 

.S7.T/A Eoiv. — Knit 3, purl 1, kuit 2, purl 1, kuit 2, over twJco, purl 2 
together, knit 3. 

Seventh Row. — Knit 3, over twice, purl 2 together, kuit 9. 

Eighth Eow. — Knit 9, thread over twice, purl 2 together, knit 3. 

Ninth Bow. — Knit 3, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 2, over twice, 
narrow, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 1 . 

Tenth Row. — Knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, jjurl 1, kuit 2, over 
twicp, purl 2 together, knit 3. 

Efrrenth Row. — Knit 3, over twice, purl 2 together, knit 12. 

Tiretfth Row. — Slip and bind off 7, knit 4, over twice, purl 2 together, 
knit'3. 

Repeat from the first row. 

LEAF EDGE. 

Cast on 14 stitches. 

First Row. — -Throw thread over, kuit 1, over, kuit 2, narrow twice, knit 
2, over, narrow, over, narrow, knit 1, 

Second Row. — Seam across, slipping first stitch. 

Third Row. — Over, knit 3, over, knit 1, narrow twice, knit 1, over, 
narrow, over, narroAV, knit 1. 

Fourth Row. — Seam across, slipping first stitch. 

Fifth Roiv. — Over, knit 5, over, narrow twice, over, narrow, over, nar- 
row, kuit 1. 

Sixth Row. — Seam across, slipping first stitch. 

Seventh Row. — Over, knit 3, narrow, knit 2, over, narrow, over, narrow, 
over, narrow, kuit 1. 

Eighth Row. — Seam across, slipping first stitch. 

Begin at first row. 

MYSTIC EDGING. 

Cast on 19 stitches; kuit across plain. 

First Row. — Knit 3, over, narrow, knit 2, over, knit 1, over, nanow, 
knit 1, narrow, over, knit 2, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow. 

Second Row. — Knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, jnirl 1, narrow, kuit ], over, slij) 
1. narrow, throw over the slipped .stitch, over, kuit 3, over, narrow, narrow, 
over, narrow, knit 1. 

Third Row. — Knit 3, over, narrow, over, uarrow, knit 1, narrow, over, 
kuit 1, over, knit 1, narrow, knit 6. 

Fourth Row. — Bind off 2, knit 5, over, knit 3, over, slip 1, unrmw, 
throw over the slipped stitch, over, knit 3. over, narroAV, knit 1. 

Repeat from the first row. 

NARROW TOUTHKD EDGE. 

Cast on 9 stitches. 

Fir.'<t Row. Slip 1. kuit 2, over twice, narrow, over twice, unrvow. knit 2. 



Knitting. 91 

Second How. — Kuit plaiu all hut the loops; knit aud purl these. 

Third Roto. — Slij) 1, kuit :2, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, 
kuit 1. 

Fourth Row. — Like second row. 

Fifth Row. — Slip 1, knit :2, o\cr twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, 
kuit G. 

Si.rth Row.—JAke second row. 

Seventh Row. — Slip 1, knit 2, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, 
knit H. 

Eighth Row. — Like second row. 

Ninth Row. — Slip 1, knit 2, over twice, narrow, over twice, uarrow, 
kuit 10. 

Tenth Row. — Bind off 10. knit and ]inil the loops. 

Repeat from the tii-st row. 

OPENWORK EDGIXCt. 

Cast on 15 stitches; kuit across plain. 

Fird Row. — Slip 1, 3 plaiu, over, narrow, over, narrow, 3 plaiu. over, 
narrow, over three times, narrow, 1 plaiu. 

Second Row. — Slip 1, 1 plaiu, knit first loop plain, seam second loop, 
knit third loop plain, 2 plain, over, narrow, 5 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain. 

Third Row. — Slip 1, 2 plain, over, narrow, 1 plaiu, over, narrow, 2 
plain, over, narrow, 5 plaiu. 

Fourth Row. — Slip 1, 6 plain, over, narrow, .") ])lain, over, narrow, 1 
plaiu. 

Fifth Row. — Slip 1, :2 plain, over, narrow, 2 plaiu. over, narrow, I plain, 
over, narrow, r> plaiu. 

Si.rth Rmr. — Bind oflf 2, I plain, oxer, narrow. ."> plaiu, over, narrow, 
1 plain. 

ITALIAN' EDGE. 

('a.st on l.j stitches; kuit across ]»lain. 

First Row. — Knit o plain, over, narrow, :? j)lain, over, 1 plain, over, 
ti plain. 

Second Row. — Knit 6 plaiu, over, o plain, over, narrow, .'» plain, over, 
nanx>w, 1 plain. 

Third Row. — Kuit !> plain, over, narrow, nairow. over. .> plain, over, 
(» ]tlain. 

Fourth Row. — Bind off till there are 14 stitches left on needle. 1 i)Iain, 
over, narrow, 3 plain, narrow, over, narrow, 1 plain, over, uarrow. 1 plaiu. 

Fifth Row. — Knit 3 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain, over, uarrow 1 plain, 
narrow, fixer, 3 jilain. 

Si.rth It'oir. — Knit 3 plain, over, 1 plain, over, slip 2, 1 plaiu. throw the 
two slipped stitches over the one plain, over 4 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain. 



92 Home Decorative Work. 

WOXDERFIL KI»GIX(J. 

Cast on 13 stitches; kuit across plain. 

First Bote. — Seam \^, 8 plain, sea:n 2. 

Second Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over plain one, over, 
seam 8, over, slip 1 , narrow, pull slipped stitch over narrowed one, 

Thtrd Bow. — In the tirst stitch, kuit 1 plain and seam 1, thus making 
two stitches out of one, 10 plain, seam 1. 

Fourth Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over, seam 2 together, seam 4, seam 2 to- 
gether, over, 3 plain. 

Fifth Bow. — In the first stitch, kuit 1 ]>lain aud seam 1, as hefore, 
seam 3, 6 plain, seam 3. 

Sixth Bow. — Slip 1, 2 plain, ovtr. seam 2 together, siam 2, seam 2 to- 
gether, over, 5 plain. 

Seventh Bow. — In the first stitch, kuit 1 plain and seam 1, seam ."i, 4 plain, 
seam 4. 

EJffhth Bow. — Slip 1, 3 plain, over, seam 2 together, .seam 2 together, 
over, 1 plain, narrow, over twice, narrow, 2 plain. 

Ninth Bow. — Slip 1. seam 2. knit first loop, scam second loop, scam 3, 
2 plain, seam 5. 

IVnt/i Bow. — Slip 1. 1 plain, narrow, over, narrow, 3 ])lain. narrow. 

Eleventh Bow. — Sli^j 1, seam 4, (i plain, seam 3. 

Twelfth 7?0Jr.— Slip 1, narrow, over, seam (i, over, narrow. 1 plain, 
narrow. 

DIAMOXI) KlXilXii. 

Cast on !) .stitches,- kuit across plain. 

Firnt Bow. — Knit 3 plain, narrow, over, narrow. <iv<m-. 1 jilain. o\er, 
1 plain. 

Seeond Bow. — Kuit 1 ]»iain. seam 1, 1 ]ilaiu. st-am 1. 1 jilain, srani 1, 
4 plain. 

Third Bow. — Knit 2 plain, narrow, over, narrow, over, 3 plain, over, 
1 plain. 

Fourth Bow. — Knit 1 ]ilain, seam 1, 3 plain, seam 1, 1 jilain. scam 1, 
.^ plain. 

Fifth Bow. — Kuit 1 jdaiu, narrow, over, narrow, over. •"> jilain. oxer. 

1 plain. 

Si.fth Bow. — Kuit 1 ]>laiu. seaiu 1. ."> [duiu. seaui 1. 1 plain, seam 1. 

2 plain. 

Seventh Bow. — Knil 3 )>lain. over, narrow, oyer, narrow. 1 }ilaiu. nar- 
row, over, narrow. 

Eiyhth Bow.— Knh 1 ]tlaiu, seam 1. 3 ]ilaiu. seam 1. 1 ]ilaiu. seam 1, 

3 plain. 

Xinth Bow.—}\u\t -\ ]tlaiii. o\er. narrow, over, knit '.'> together, over, 
nari-ow. 



Knitting. 03 

Tetith Jx'oH-. — Knit 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, seam 1, 4 plaiiu 
Elercuth Bow. — Knit 5 jilaiu, over, knit 3 together, ovt-r. narrow. 
Tivdfth How. — Knit 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, .seam 1, 5 plain. 

SWISS EDGE. 

Cast on 16 stitches; knit across plain. 

Fimt Bow. — Knit 3 plain, over, narro^v, over, narroAv, .") plain, narrow, 
over, 1 plain, over, 1 plain. 

Second Bow. — Knit across j)lain. 

Third Bow. — Knit 4 plain, over, narrow, over, narrow. :! plain, narrow, 
over, ',i plain, over, 1 plain. 

Fourth Bow. — Knit back plain. 

Fifth Bote. — Knit 5 plain, over, narrow, over, narrow, 1 ]>laiti. narrow, 
over, 5 plain, over, 1 plain. 

Si.vth Bow. — Knit back plain. 

Seventh Bow. — Knit G plain, over, narrow, over, knit I! stitches together, 
over, narrow, 5 plain, over, 1 plain. 

Eighth Bote. — Knit back plain. 

Xinth Bow. — Knit 5 plain, over, narrow, over, narrow, 2 i)lain, over, 
narrow, o plain, over, 1 plain. 

Tenth Bow. — Knit back plain. 

Eleventh Bow. — Knit 4 plain, over, narrow, over, narrow, 4 plain, over, 
narrow, 5 plain, over, 1 plain. 

Twelfth Bote. — Bind off 5 stitches, 1.") j>laiii. 

FAG(i(»T KIKii:. 

Cast on 10 stitches; knit acro.ss plain. 

First Boir. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over, seam 2 together, 2 jjlaiu, over twice, 
uanow, 2 plain. 

Second Boio. — Knit 4 plain, seam 1, 2 plain, over twice, scam 2 together, 
2 plain. 

Third Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over, .seam 2 together. :> jdain. over twice, 
narrow, 2 plain. 

Fourth Bow. — Knit 4 plain, seam 1, 15 plain, oxer twice, seam 2 to- 
gether, 2 plain. 

Fifth Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, over, seam 2 together, 4 ])lain, over twice, 
narrow, 2 plain. 

Si.rth Bo)r. — Knit t ])lain, seam I, I plain, over twice, .seam 2 togetlier, 
2 plain. 

Seventh Bow. — Slij) 1, 1 i>lain, over, seam 2 together, rest plain. 

Eiffhth Bow. — Bind otl" o stitches, 5 plain, over twice, seam 2 together, 
2 phiin. 



9-lr Home Decorative Work. 

Articles in Knitting. 

AX ELEGANT QUILT, 

It is made of woodbine twists aud diamonds, in 10 strips, 13 diamonds 
long. Knit some kind of a pretty edge fcr a border. It takes 28 balls of 
knitting cotton No. 10, and very coarse knitting needles, called mitten 
needles, 

Knit across plain 4 ro« s at the beginning of each and 4 rows before 
binding off. 

Cast on 63 stitches. 

First Row. — Knit 16 plain, seam 11, 4 plain, thread over twice, narrow, 

3 plain, seam 11, 16 plain. 

Second How. — 4 plain, seam 8, 15 plain, seam 9, 15 plain, seam 8, 4 plain. 

Tlurd Row. — 16 plain, seam 11, 9 plain, seam 11, 16 plain. 

Fourth Roio. — 4 plain, seam 8, 15 plain, seam 9, 15 plain, seam 8, 

4 plain. 

Fifth Row. — 30 plain, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, 29 plain. 

Sixth Row. — 4 plain, seam 8, 4 plain, seam 31, 4 plain, seam 8, 4 plain. 

Seventh Row. — Knit across plain. 

Eighth Roic. —4 plain, seam 8, 4 plain, seam 31, 4 plain, seam 8, 4 plain. 

Ninth Rotv. — 16 plain, seam 9, 4 plain, over twice, narrow, over twice, 
narrow, over twice, narrow, 3 plain, seam 9, 16 plain. 

Tent?i Rote. — 4 plain, seam 8, 13 plain, seam 13, 13 plain, seam 8, 4 plain. 

Eleventli Row. — 16 plain, seam 9, 13 plain, seam 9, 16 plain. 

Twelfth Row. — 4 plain, seam 8, 13 plain, seam 13, 13 plain, seam >■', 
4 plain. 

Tliirtecnth Row. — 28 plain, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, o\er 
twice, narrow, over, narrow, 27 plain. 

Fourteenth Row. — 4 plain, seam 8, 4 plain, seam 31. 4 plain, seam 8, 
4 plain. 

Fifteenth Row. — Knit across plain. 

Sixteenth Row. — 4 plain, seam 8, 4 ])lain, seam 31, 4 plain, seam 8, 
4 plain. 

Seventeenth Row. — 4 plain, slip 4 stitches from your left-hand needle on 
a hairpin, knit 4 plain, then put your 4 stitches back on the left-hand 
needle; now 8 plain, seam 7, 4 plain, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, 
over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, 3 plain, seam 7, 
4 plain, slip 4 stitches from your left-hand needle on a hairpin, 4 plain, then 
put the 4 stitches back on the left needle, 8 plain. 

Eighteenth Bow. — 4 plain, seam 8, 11 plain, seam 17, 11 plain, seam 8, 
4 plain. 

NinctcentJi Row.—\Q plain, seam 7, 17 plain, seam 7, 16 plain, seam 8, 
4 plain. 



Knitting. 



95 



Twentieth Row. — I plain, seam 8, 11 plain, seam 17. 11 plain, seaiu 8, 
4 plain. 

Ticcnty-Jirst Eow. — ;2() plain, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, 
over twice, narrow, o^er twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, over twice, nar- 
row, 25 plain. 

Ticeniy-second Row. — 4 plain, seaui 8, 4 plain, seam \M, 4 plain, scam 
8, 4 plain. 

Twenfy-third Row. — Knit across plain. 




Fig. 98. 

Twenty-fomrth Roiv.—A plain, seam 8, 4 plain, seam 31, 4 plain, seam 
8, 4 i)lain. 

Twenth-ffth Row. — 16 plain, seam 5, 4 plain, over twice, narrow, oxer 
twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow , 
over twice, narrow, over twice, narroA\', 3 plain, seam 5, 16 plain. 

Twenty-sixth Roir. — 4 plain, seam 8. plain, seam 21, 9 plain, seam 8, 
4 plain. 

Twenty-seventh Row. 16 plain, seam o, 21 plain, seam a, 16 plain. 

Ttreniy-eitjhth Row. — 4 plain, seam 8, 9 i)lain, seam 21, 9 plain, seam 
8, 4 jtlain. 



06 Home Decorative Work. 

Twenty-ninth Fou'. — Knit 24 plain, over twice, uarrovr, over twite, nar- 
row, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, over twice, 
narrow, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, 23 plain. 

Tliirtietli Brno. — Knit 4 plain, seam 8, 4 plain, seam 31, 4 plain, seam 8, 
4 plain. 

Thirty-first Mote. — Knit across plain. 

Th iff //-second How. — Four plain, seam 8, 4 plain, seam 31, 4 plain, seam 
8, 4 plain. 

Tlurtjj-tliird Bow. — Four plain, take 4 stitches from your left-hand needle 
on a hairpin, 4 plain, put back the 4 stitches on the left-hand needle, 
8 plain, seam 3, 4 plain, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, over twice, 
narrow, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, over 
twice, narrow, over twice, narroAv, over twice, narrow, 3 plain, seam 3, 4 
plain, slip the next 4 stitches on a hairpin, 4 plain, put the 4 .stitches that 
are on the hairpin back on the left needle, 8 plain. 

Thirty- fourth Bow. — Four plain, seam 8, 7 plain, seam 25, 7 plain, seam 
8, 4 phiin. 

Thirty-fifth Bow. — Knit 16 plain, sejim 3, 25 plain, seam 3, 16 plain. 

Thirty-sixth Bow. — Four plain, seam 8, 7 plain, seam 2r>, 7 plain, seam 
8, 4 plain 

Thirty-seventh Bow. — Knit 22 plain, (over twice, narrow) 10 times, 21 
]ilain. 

Thirli/-rii/hfh Bow. — Four plain, seam 8, 4 plain, seam 31, 4 plain, seam 
8, 4 plain. 

Thirty-ninth Bow. — Knit across plain. 

Fortieth Bow. — Four plain, seam 8, 4 plain, seam 31, 4 plain, seam 8, 4 
plain. 

Forly-firnf Bow. — Knit 16 plain, seam 3, 4 plain, (over twice, narrow) 9 
times. 3 plain, seam 3, 16 plain. 

Forty-second Bow. — Four plain, seam 8, 7 plain, seam 25, 7 plain, seam 
8, 4 plain. 

Forty-third Bow. — Knit 16 plain, seam 3, 25 plain, seam 3, 16 plain. 

Forty-foiuih Bow. — Four plain, seam 8, 7 plain, seam 25, 7 plain, seam 
8, 4 plain. 

Forty-fifth Bow. — Knit 24 plain, (over twice, narrow) 8 times, 23 plain. 

Forfy-si.vfh Bow. — Four plain, seam 8, 4 plain, seam 31, 4 plain, seam 
8, 4 plain. 

Forfy-screnth I>'ow. — Knit across plain. 

Forty-cii/hlh Bow. — Four plain, seam 8, 4 plain, seam 31, 4 plain, seam 
8, 4 i)lain. 

Forty-ninth Bow, — Four plain, take 4 stitches from your left-hand needle 
on a hairpin, 4 plain, put the stitches back on the left-hand needle, 8 plain, 
seam 5, 4 plain, (over twice, narrow) 7 times, 3 plain, seam 5, 4 plain, slip oflf 



Knitting. 97 

4 stitches on ahairpiu, 4 plain, put the stitches back on the h It needle, 8 plain. 

Fiftieth Row.—Yowv plain, seam 8, ft plain, seam 21, plain, seam 8, 4 
plain. 

Fifty-first Row.— Kmi 16 plain, seam .">, 21 plain, seam .">, 16 plain. 

Fifty-second Row.—Yowr plain, seam 8, 9 plain, seam 21, 9 plain, seam 
8, 4 plain. 

Fifty-third Row.— Knit 26 plain, (over twice, narrow) 6 times, 25 plain. 

Fifty-fourth Row. — Fonr plain, seam 8, 4 plain, seam 31, 4 plain, seam 
8, 4 plain. 

Fifty-fifth Row. — Knit across plain. 

Fifty-si.iih Row. — Four plain, seam 8, 4 plain, seam 151, 4 plain, seam 8, 

4 plain. 

Fifty-seccnih Row. — Knit 16 plain, seam 7, 4 plain, (over twice, narrow) 

5 times, 3 plain, seam 7, 16 plain. 

Fifty-eighth Row. — Four plain, seam 8, 11 plain, seam 17, 11 plain, seam 
8, 4 plain. 

Fifty-ninth Roto. — Knit 16 plain, seam 7, 17 plain, .seam 7, 16 plain. 

Sixtieth Row. — Four plain, .seam 8, 11 plain, seam 17, 11 plain, seam 8, 4 
plain. 

Sixty-first Row. — Knit 28 plain, (over twice, narrow) 4 times, 27 plain. 

Sixty-second Row. — Four plain, seam 8, 4 plain, seam 31, 4 plain, seam 8, 
4 plain. 

Sixty-third Row.- Knit across plain. 

Sixty-fourth Row. — Four plain, seam 8, 4 plain, seam 31, 4 plain, seam 8, 
4 plain. 

Sixty-fifth Row. — Four plain, slip 4 stitches off left needle on a hairpin, 4 
plain, put the stitches back on the left needle, 8 plain, seam 9, 4 plain, 
(over twice, narrow) 3 times, 3 jilain, seam 9, 4 plain, slip 4 on a hairpin, 4 
plain, put the stitches back on the left needle, 8 plain. 

Sixty-sixth Row. — Four plain, seam 8, 13 plain, seam 13, 13 plain, seam 
8, 4 plain. 

Sixty-seventh Row. — Knit 16 plain, seam 9, 13 plain, seam 9, 16 plain. 

Sixty-eighth Row. — Four plain, seam 8, 13 plain, seam 13, 13 plain, seam 
8. 4 plain. 

Sixty-ninth Row. — Knit 30 plain, over twice, narrow, over twice, narrow, 
2}) plain. 

Seventieth Row. — Four plain, seam 8, 4 plain, seam 31, 4 plain, seam 8, 4 
plain. 

Seventy-first Row. — Knit acrcss plain. 

Seventy-second Row. — Four plain, seam 8, 4 plain, seam 31, 4 plain, 
seam 8. 4 plain. 

When knitting the .second diamond, cross the chain when you make the 
third row of holes. Third diamond like the first, and so on. 
7 



98 Home Decokative AVokk. 



ORAXGE-QIIAKTER QUILT. 

Use No. 10 four-thread knitting cotton, 5 mitten needles, not too coarse. 

Orange-leaf lace, directions for which are given under ' ' Laces, ' ' is very 
pretty to edge the quilt. It takes 100 squares for the qiiilt. Four of these 
squares sewed together make a very pretty tidy, edged with the Orange- 
leaf lace. 

For the square cast on 8 stitches, 3 on each of two needles and 2 on 
one needle. 

First Bow. — Over 1, 1 plain, all round. 

Second Bow. — Plain all round. 

Third Bow. — Over 1, 1 plain, all round. 

Fourth Bow. — Seam 1, 5 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, all round. 

Fifth Bow. — Over, 3 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 3 plain, over, 1 plain, 
all round. 

Sixth Bow. — Seam 2, 7 plain, seam 2, 1 plain, all round. 

Seventh Bow. — Over, 5 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 5 plain, over, 1 plain, 
aU round. 

Eighth Bow. — Seam 3, 9 plain, seam 3, 1 plain, all round. 

Ninth Bow. — Over, 7 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 7 plain, over, 1 plain, 
all round. 

Tenth Bow. — Seam 4, 11 plain, seam 4, 1 plain, all round. 

Eleventh Bow. — Over, 9 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 9 plain, over, 1 plain, 
all round. 

Thoelfth Bow. — Seam 5, 13 plain, seam 5, 1 plain, all round. 

Thirteenth Bow. — Over, 11 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 11 plain, over, 1 
plain, all round. 

Fourteenth Bow. — Seam 6, 15 plain, seam 6, 1 plain, all round. 

Fifteenth Bow. — Over, 13 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 13 plain, over, 1 
plain, all round. 

Sixteenth Bow. — Seam 7, narrow, 13 plain, narrow, seam 7, 1 plain, 
all round. 

Seventeenth Bow. — Over, 29 plain, over, 1 plain, all round. 

Eighteenth Bow. — Seam 8, narrow, 11 plain, naiTOw, seam 8, 1 plain, 
all round. 

The nineteenth, twenty-first, twenty-third, twenty-fifth, twenty- 
seventh, twenty-ninth and thirty-first rows are like the seventeenth. 

Twentieth Bow. — Seam 9, narrow, 9 plain, narrow, seam 9, 1 plain, 
all round. 

Twenty-second Bow. — Seam 10, narrow, 7 plain, narrow, seam 10, 1 
plain, all round. 

Twenty-fourth Bow. — Seam 11, narrow, 5 plain, narrow, scam 11, 1 
plain, all round. 



Knitting. 



99 



Tuenii/-»i.rth Jimv. — Seam 12, iiarroAV, !? plain, uarnnv, seam 12, 1 plain, 
all round. 

Tiventy-ciyhih Row. — Scam i:*>, narrow, 1 plain narrow, seam l:!, 1 
plain, all round. 

Thirtieth Row. — Seam 14, narrow, narrow, seam 14, 1 plain, all round. 

Thiiii/-f:econ<I and All Ercn 7?oirs.— Plain all round. 




Fig. 99. 

Thirty-third Row. — (Over, narrow) 15 times, over, 1 plain, over, 1 plain, 
all round. 

Thirty-fifth Row. — Over, narrow, (over, 4 plain, narro^v) 5 times, over, 1 
plain, over, 1 plain, all round. 

Thirty-seventh Row. — Over, narrow, (over, 1 plain, over, narrow, 1 plain, 
narrow) 5 times, over, 1 plain, over, narrow, over, 1 plain, all round. 

Tliirty-ninth Row. — Over, narrow, (over, 3 plain, over, narrow, narrow) 
5 times, over, 3 plain, over, narrow, oAer, 1 plain, all round. 



100 Home Decorativp: Work. 

Fofty-Jird Row. — Over, 2 plaiu, (over, narrow. 1 plaiu, narrow, over, 1 
plain) 5 times, over, narrow, 1 plain, narrow, over, 2 plain, over, 1 plain, 
all round. 

Forty-third Row. — Over, 4 plain, over, narrow, narrow, (over, :> plain, 
over, narrow, narrow) ."i times, over, 4 plaiu, over, 1 plain, all round. 

Forty-ffth Rou\ — Over. 43 plain, over, 1 plain, all round. 

Forty-seventh Row. — (Over, narrow) 22 times, over, 1 plain, over, 1 plain, 
all round. 

Turn the work and knit the lortv-ninth. iiltieth and tifty-tirst rows to 
form a ridge. 

At the beginning of the square, when you get 32 stitches on 3 needles, 
take the fourth needle and have 8 stitches on each needle, using a fifth needle 
to knit with, so that each needle will be on one side of the square. 

KNITTED Or.IVE-LEAF QUILT. 

Cast on 38 stitches with 4 extra for edge stitches (2 on each side). 

First Row. — Knit 2 plain, seam 2, * narrow. 11 plain, seam 2, over 
twice, 1 plain, over twice, seam 2 *; repeat from star to star to the last 2 
which are plain. 

Second Row. — Knit 4, * seam 3, 2 plaiu. seam 10, seam 2 together, 2 
plain *; repeat from star to star to the last 2 which are plain. (Remember 
that whenever the thread is put over twice in coming back, the second loop 
is dropped throughout the pattern; its only use is to make a large hole.) 

Tliird Roir. — Knit 2 plain, seam 2, * narrow, 9 plain, seam 2, 1 plain, 
^ovcr, 1 plain) twice, seam 2 *; repeat from star to star, last 2 plain. 

Fourth Row. — Knit 4 plain, * seam .5, 2 j)lain, seam S. seam 2 together, 
2 plain * ; repeat from star to star, last 2 plain. 

Fifth Row. — Knit 2 plain, seam 2, * narrow, 7 plain, scam 2, 2 plain, 
over. 1 plain, o\ er, 2 plain, seam 2 *; repeat from star to star, hist 2 plain. 

Si.vth Roir. — Knit 4 plain, * seam 7, 2 plain, seam fi, seam 2 together, 2 
plain '• ; repeat from star to star, la^st 2 plain. 

Seventh Row. — Knit 2 plain, seam 2, * narrow, a plain, seam 2, 3 plain, 
over. 1 plaiu, over, 3 plain, seam 2 *; repeat from star to star, last 2 plain. 

Fifjhth Row. — Knit 4 plain, ■•■ .seam 9, 2 plain, seam 4, seani 2 together, 
2 plain *; repeat from star to star, last 2 plain. 

Xinth Row. — Knit 2 plain, seam 2, * narrow, 3 plain, seam 2, 4 plaiu, 
over, 1 plain, over, 4 plain, seam 2 *; repeat from star to star, last 2 plain. 

Tenth Row. — Knit 4 plain, * seam 11,2 plain, seam 2, seam 2 together, 
2 plain *; repeat from star to star, last 2 plain. 

Eleventh Roiv. —Knit 2 plain, seam 2, * narrow, 1 plain, seam 2, 5 plain, 
over, 1 plain, over, 5 plain, seam 2 *; repeat from star to star, last 2 plain. 

Twelfth Row. — Knit 4 plain, * seam 13, 2 plain, seam 2 together, 2 
plain *; repeat from star to star, last 2 jdain. 



Knitting. 1(»I 

Tldrteenth L'ow. — Kuit '2 plain, seam 'Z. * over twice, 1 ])laiii, over 
twiee, scam !i, uaii-ow, 11 plaiu, seam 2 *; repeat from star to star, last 2 
plain. 

Fourteenth Jiotv. — Knit 4 plain, * seam 10, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 
seam !{, 2 plain *; repeat from star to star, last 2 plain. 

Fifteenth Jxoir. — Knit 2 i)lain, seam 2, * 1 plaiu, over, 1 plain, ovej-. 1 
plain, seam 2, narrow, 9 i)lain, seam 2 ■'■; repeat from star to star, last 2 
plain. 

Sixteenth Bow. — Knit 4 plain, * .seam 8, seam 2 together, 2 plain, seam 
5, 2 plain *; repeat from .star to star, 2 plain. 

Seventeenth Bow. — Knit 2 plain, seam 2, * 2 plain, over, 1 ])lain, over. 2 
plain, narrow, 7 plain, seam 2 *; repeat from star to star, last 2 plain. 

Eighteenth Boiv. — Knit 4 plain, * seani 6, .seam 2 together. 2 plain, seam 
?! 2 ]>lain *; repeat from star to star, last 2 plain. 

Nineteenth Bow. — Knit 2 plain, .seam 2, * 3 plain, over, 1 ])laiu, over, 3 
plaiu, seam 2, narrow, .'> plain, seam 2 -'; repeat from star to star, last 2 
plain. 

Twentieth Bow. — Kuit 4 plaiu, * seam 4, seam 2 together, 2 plain, seam 
9, 2 plain *; repeat from star to star, last 2 plain. 

Ihmnty-firat Bow. — Knit 2 plain, seam 2, * 4 plain, over, 1 }»lain. over. 4 
pjain, seam 2, nari-ow, 3 plain, seam 2''': repeat from star to star, last 2 
plain. 

Twenty-sicond Bow. — Knit 4 plaiu, * seam 2, seam 2 logetlier, 2 i)laiii. 
.se'am 11, 2 plain*; repeat from star to star, last 2 plain. 

Twent/j-third Bow. — Knit 2 plaiu, seam 2, * ^ jjhiin, over, 1 ])lain, over, 
.') plain, seam 2. narrow, 1 plaiu, seam 2 *; repeat from star to star, last 2 
plain. 

Twenty-fourth Bow. — Kuit 4 plain, * seam 2 together. 2 ])lain. seam 13. 
2 plain *; repeat from star to star, last 2 plain. 

KNITTED STAR QTILT. 

Materials: Xo. 8 knitting cotton and fonr No. 1(1 needles. 

Cast stitches on each of 2 needles, and knit around plain once. 

First Bow. — Over, 2 plain, over, 2 plain, all round. 

Second and All Even Bows.— Flain. 

Third Bow. — Over, 3 plain, over, 3 jjlain, all round. 

Fifth Bow. — Over, 4 plain, over, 4 plaiu, all round. 

Seventh Bow. — Over, 5 plaiu, over, 5 plain, all round. 

Xinfh Bow. — Over, 6 plain, over, (5 plain, all round. 

Eleventh Bow. — Over, 7 plain, over, 7 plain, all round. 

Twelfth Bow. — This row being knit plain gives s stitches between each 
open ixjw, which is the widest part of each star ]X)inl. 

Thirteenth Bow. — * Over, 1 plaiu, over, narrow, ."> i)lain ■; repeat from 
star to star, all around. 



102 Home Decokatin e AVokk. 

Fifteenth Row. — * Over, 1 plain, (over, narrow) twice, 4 i)lain'*; repeat 
from star to star, all round. 

Seventeenth Row.—* Over, 1 plain, (over, narrow) 3 times, :> plain '^'j re- 
peat from star to star, all round. 

Nineteenth Row. — * Over, 1 plain, (over, narrow) 4 times, 2 plain,* all 
round. ' 

Twenty-first Row. -* 0\eY, 1 plain, (over, narrow) 5 times, 1 plain*; n-- 
peat all round. 

Twenty-third Row. — - Over, 1 plain, (over, narrow) 6 times,* all round. 

Twcnty-fonrth Row. — All plain. 

Twenty-fifth Row. — Bind otf till there is 1 stiteh on tlie rii-lit-luiiul needle 
and 14 stitches on the left. 

Twenty-sixth Row. — Knit 2 plain (and 1 on the needle makes 3\ seam 3, 
3 ])lain, seam 3, 3 plain, etc. 

Twenty-seventh Row. — Seam 3, 3 plain, seam 3, 3 plain, seani 3, etc. 

Tweniy-eighth Row. — Knit 3 jilain, .seam 3, 3 plain, seam 3, 3 plain, etc. 

These last 3 rows are repeated imtil you have 27 rows of this kind. 

Bind ofl". 

Join, turning all the liasket Avork in the same direction for one row, either 
the length or width of the bed, and in the opposite direction for alternate 
rows. This leaves a three-sided depression to be filled thus: Take up 8 
stitches along the edge of the basket work, holding the wrong side of the 
spread toward j'on. 

First Row. — Over, 1 plain, (over, narrow) 3 times, over. 1 plain. 

Second and Every Even Row. — All seamed. 

Third Row. — Over, 1 plain, (over, narrow) 4 times, o\er, 1 ])lain. 

Fifth Row. — Over, 1 plain, (over, narrow) 5 times, over, 1 plain. 

Seventh Row.— 0\er, 1 plain, (over, narrow) 6 times, over, 1 i)lain. 

Ninth Row. — Over, 1 plain, (over, narrow) 7 times, over, 1 plain. 

Eleventh Row. — Over, 1 plain, (over, narrow) 8 times, over, 1 plain. 

Thirteenth Row. — Over, 1 plain, (over, narrow) 9 times, over, 1 plain. 

Fifteenth Row. — Over, 1 plain, (over, narrow) 10 times, over, 1 plain. 

Sixteenth Row. — Seam across. 

Seventeenth Row. — Bind oti". 

.W'OTHEK K.NMTTKI) QUILT. 

This quilt is c()m]x)sed of two kinds ol' stripes. I'se medium sized 
knitting cotton. 

For the close stripe, cast on (id si itches. 

First Roir. — All seamed. 

Seeond Row. — Slip 1, seam 11. 1 ])lain. seam I!, 10 jdaiii, seam •.*. 10 
]tlain, seam 3, 1 plain, seam l.">. 

Tliird and All Odd Rows. — Knit all the stitches wliicli appear knit 
on tliis side and seam those which appear S(>amc(l. - 



Knitting. 103 

Fourth I'ow. — Slip 1, l(i jjlaiu, seam :>, 8 i)lain, se:im 1, 8 plaiu, st-aiu 4, 
17 i>laiii. 

Sixth Mow. — Sli)» 1, scam 14, 8 i)lain, seam 3, 6 plaiu, seam 6, 6 plain, 
seam 3, 15 plain. 

Eighth Boio. — Slip 1, 18 plaiu, seam 3, 4 plaiu. seam 3, 2 plaiu, seam 3, 
4 plaiu, seam 3, 19 plaiu. 

Tenth Row. — Slip 1, seam 14, 5 plain, seam 3, 2 plaiu, seam 3, 4 plaiu, 
.seam 3, 2 i^laiu, seam 3, 5 plaiu, seam 15. 

Twelfth Row. — Slip 1, 20 plaiu, seam 6, 6 plaiu, seam G, 21 plain. 

Fourteenth Row. — Slij) 1, seam 14, 7 plaiu, seam 4, 3 plain, seam 2, 3 
plaiu, seam 4, 7 plain, seam 15. 

Sixteenth Row. — Slip 1, 21 plaiu, seam 3, 3 plain, seam 4, 3 plain, 
seam 3, 22 plaiu. 

Eighteenth Row. — Slip 1, seam 14, 6 plaiu, seam 3, 3 plaiu, seam 0, 3 
plain, seam 3, 6 plain, seam 1.5. 

Twentieth Row. — Slip 1,19 plaiu, seam 3, 3 plaiu, .seam 3, 2 plaiu, seam 
3, 3 plaiu, seam 3, 3 plaiu, seam :], 20 plain. 

Twenty-seeond Row. — Slip 1, seam 14, 4 plaiu, seam 3, 3 plaiu, seam 3, 
4 plain, seam 3, 3 plain, seam 3, 4 plaiu, seam 15. 

Twenty-fourth Row. — Slip 1, 17 plain, seam 3, 3 plain, seam 3, 6 plain, 
seam 3, 3 plain, seam 3, 18 plain. 

Twenty-si.vth Row. — Slip 1, §.eam 14, 2 plaiu, seam 3. 3 plain, seam 3, 8 
plaiu, seam 3, 3 plain, seam 3, 2 plaiu, seam 15. 

Twenty-eighth Row. — Slip 1, 15 jilain, seam 3, :! plain, seam 3, 10 plain, 
seam 3, 3 plaiu, seam 3, 16 plain. 

Thirtieth to Fifty-third Row.s.— Like the 26th, odd vows like 2d. Com- 
mence at the 2d row and Avork to the 53d row till the strip is long enough. 

For the openwork stripe, east on 50 stitches. 

First Row. — All seamed. 

Second Rmv. — Slip 1, seam 2, over, narrow, seam 3, 11 plain, narrow, 
over, 1 plain, over, seam 2, over, 1 jjlain, over, narrow, 11 plain, seam 3, 2 
plaiu, over, narrow, seam 3. 

Third Row.— Slip 1, 2 jilain, seam 2, over, seam 2 together, 3 plaiu, 
seam 10, seam 2 together, crossed (to do this, place the thread on the needle, 
as in seaming, insert the needle from left to right in the back veins of Ijoth 
stitches and seam them off together), seanr 3, 2 plain, seam 3, seam 2 to- 
gether, seam 10, 3 plain, seam 2, over, .seam 2 together, seam 10, 3 plaiu, 
seam 2, over, seam 2 together, 3 plain. 

Fourth 2?ow.— Slip 1, seam 2, 2 plain, over, narrow, seam 3, 9 plaiu, 
narrow, knit 1 twice (that is knit the stitch plain, slip it back on left-haud 
needle, and knit it plain again. 

Fifth Row. — Slip 1, 2 plain, seam 2, over, seam 2 together, 3 jdain, 
seam "^. seam 2 together, crossed as before, seam 5, 2 plain, seam 5, 



]04 Home Decokative Wokk. 

fieani 2 together, seam 8, 3 plain, seam 2, over, seam 2 together, 3 plain. 

Sixth Mow. — Slip 1, seam 2, 2 plain, over, narrow, seam 3, 7 plain, uar- 
i-ow, 2 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 2 plain, seam 2, 2 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 
2 plain, narrow, 7 plain, seam 3, 2 plain, over, narrow, seam 3. 

Seventh L'ow. — Slip 1, 2 plain, seam 2, over, seam 2 together, 3 jilain, 
seam 6, seam 2 together crossed, seam 7, 2 plain, seam 7. seam 2 together, 
seam 6, 3 plain, seam 2, over, seam 2 together, 3 plain. 

Eighth L'ow. — Slip 1, seam 2, 2 jjlain, over, uanow, seam 3, 5 plain, 
narrow, 3 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 3 plain, seam 2, 3 plain, over, 1 plain, 
over, 3 plain, narrow, f) plain, seam 3, 2 plain, over, narrow, seam 3. 

Ninth Bow. — Slip 1, 2 plain, seam 2, over, seam 2 together, 3 plain, 
seam 4, seam 2 together crossed, seam 9, 2 plain, seam 9, seam 2 together, 
seam 4, 3 plain, seam 2, over, seam 2 together, 3 jilain. 

Tenth Bow. — Slip 1, seam 2, 2 plain, over, narrow, seam 3, 3 plain, nar- 
row, 4 plain, OA^er, 1 plain, over, 4 plain, seam 2, 4 plain, over, 1 plain, 
over, 4 plain, narrow, 3 plain, seam 3, 2 plain, over, narrow, seam 3. 

Eleventh Bow. — Slip 1, 2 plain, .seam 2, over, seam 2 together, 3 plain, 
seam 2, seam 2 together crossed, seam 11,2 plain, seam 11, seam 2 together, 
seam 2, 3 plain, seam 2, over, seam 2 together, 3 plain. 

Twelfth Bow. — Slip 1, seam 2, 2 plain, over, narrow, seam 3, narrow. .> 
plain, over, 1 plain, over, 5 plain, seam 2, 5 plain, o\er, 1 plain, over, 5 
plain, narrow, 1 plain, seam 3, 2 plain, over, narrow, seam 3. 

Thirteenth Bote. — Slij) 1, 2 plain, seam 2, over, seam 2 together, 3 plain, 
seam 2 together crossed, seam 13, 2 plain, seam 13, seam 2 together, 3 plain, 
seam 2, over, seam 2 together, 3 plain. 

Repeat from the 2d row till the stripe is long cnous>h 

ANOTHER STRIPED Qlll.T. 

Materials: No. 12 cotton, and No. 11 necdhs. 

Cast on 75 stitches; knit across plain. 

Thirteen stitches on each end are for ed<ie stitclns. whicli are jdain or I'n 
threes for basket work, if Avished. 

First Bow. — Edge, *seam 3, over, 1 plain, over, seam 3, slip 1, 1 plain, 
pull slipped stitch over, 10 plain, narrow *; repeat from star to star to the 
last 7, then .seam 3, over, 1 i)Iain, over, seam 3; edge. 

Second Bow.—Thiii with all even rows are knitted as they eome, ])lain if 
plain, seamed if seamed. 

Third Bow. — Edge, ''•' seam 3, 1 plain, over, 1 jdaiu, over, 1 ])lain, seam 
3, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slii)ped stitch over, 8 plain, narrow *; repeat from 
star to star to the last 9, then seam :>, 1 i>laiii. over, 1 plain, over. 1 ])lain, 
seam 3; edge. 

Fifth Bow. — Edge, * seam 3, 2 plain, over, 1 i)lain. over. 2 ])lain. seiiin 
3, sli]! 1. 1 ])l:iin. ])nll slipped stitcli over, (i plain, nari'ow *: repeat from 



Knitting. 1(>5 

star to star to the last 11, tlu'U seam :>, :l jdaiu, over, 1 plaiu, over, 2 i)lain, 
st^am 3; edge. 

Seventh Rotv. — Edge, ' seam 3, 3 plaiu, over, 1 plain, over, 3 plain. se;xm 
3, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 4 plain, narrow *; repeat from 
star to star to the last 13, then .seam 3, 3 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 3 plain, 
seam 3; edge. 

Ninth Bow. — Edge, * seam 3, 4 plain, over. 1 plain, over. 4 plaiu, seam 
3, slip 1, 1 plain, pall slipped stitch over, :2 plaiu, narrow *; repeat iVom 
star to star to the last 15, then seam 3, 4 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 4 plain, 
seam 3; edge. 

Eleventh Row. — Edge, * seam 3, ."> ])lain, over, 1 plain, over, "> plaiu, 
seam 3, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, uarrow *: repeat from star 
to star to the last 17. then seam 3. .5 plaiu. over, 1 plain, over, 5 plain, seam 
3: edge. 

Thirteenth Row. — Edge, * seam 3, 6 plain, 1 plain and seam 1 in the 
next stitch, 6 plain, seam 3, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over*; re- 
peat from star to star to the last 19, then seam 3, 6 plain, 1 plain and seam 
1 in the next stitch, 6 plain, seam 3; edge. 

Fifteenth Row. — Edge, * seam 3, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 
10 plain, narrow, seam 3, over, 1 plain, over *; repeat from star to star to 
the last 20, then seam 3, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 10 plaiu, 
narrow, seam 3; edge. 

Seventeenth Row. — Edge, * seam 3, slip 1, 1 plaiu, pull slipped stitch 
over, 8 plain, narrow, seam 3, 1 plaiu, over, 1 plain, over, 1 ]ilaiu *; repeat 
from star to star to the last 18, then seam 3, slip 1. 1 plain, pull slipped 
stitch over, 8 plain, narrow, seam 3; edge. 

Nineteenth Row. — Edge, * seam 3, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch 
over, 6 plaiu, narrow, seam 3, 2 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 2 plain *; repeat 
from star to star to the last 16, then seam 3, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped 
stitch over, 6 plain, uarrow. .seam 3; edge. 

Twenty-first Row. — Edge, * seam 3, .slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch 
over, 4 plain, uarrow, seam 3, 3 iilain, over, 1 plain, over, 3 plaiu -; repeat 
from star to star to the last 14, then seam 3, slip 1, 1 jilaiu, pull slipped 
stitch over, 4 jilain, narrow, seam 3; edge. 

Twenty-third Row. — Edge, * seam 3, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped .stitch 
over, 2 plain, narrow, seam 3, 4 plain, over, 1 plain, over. 4 plain *; rei)eat 
from star to star to the last 12, then seam 3. slip 1. 1 ]ilnin. pnll slipped 
stitch over, 2 i>lain, uarrow, seam 3; edge. 

Twenty-fifth Row. — Edge, * seam 3, slip 1. 1 plaiu, pull slipped stitch 
over, uarrow, seam 3, 5 plain, over, 1 plain, over. .■> plain *; repeat from st;n' 
to .star to the la.st 10, then .seam 3, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 
narrow, s<>am 3; edge. 

Tircnty-srrenth Row. — Edge. * seam 3. slip 1, 1 plain. ])ull slipped stitih 



106 Home Decokative Wokk. 

over, seam 3, 6 plain, make 1 plain and 1 seam in the next stitch, 6 plain *; 
repeat from star to star to the last 8, then seam 3, slip 1, 1 plain, pull 
slipped stitch over, seam 3. 

Repeat from the first row. Once through the pattern forms a leaf. 
Fifty-two leaves make one stripe. 

TRIANGLE BED-QUILT. 

Materials: No. 10 knitting cotton, and two medium-sized needles. 

Cast on 3 stitches. 

First Bow. — Over, 1 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 1 plain. 

Second Bow. — Over, seam 5, 1 plain. 

Third Bow. — Over, seam 1, 2 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 2 plain, seam 1. 

Fourth Bow. — Over, 1 plain, seam 7, 2 plain. 

Fifth Bow. — Over, seam 2, 3 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 3 plain, seam 2. 

Si.vth Bow. — Over, 2 plain, seam 9, 3 plain. 

Seventh Bow. — Over, seam 3, 4 plain, over, 1 plain, o^ er, 4 plain, seam 3. 

Eighth Boiv. — Over, 3 plain, seam 11, 4 plain. 

Ninth Bow. — Over, seam 4, 5 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 5 plain, seam 4, 

Tenth Bow. — Over, 4 plain, seam 13, 5 plain. 

Eleventh Bow. — Over, seam 5, (i plain, over, 1 plain, over, 6 plain, 
seam 5. 

Twelfth Botv. — Over, 5 plain, seam 15, 6 plain. 

Thirteenth Bow. — Over, seam 6, 1 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, pass slipped 
vstitch over, 11 plain, nan'ow, seam 6. 

Fourteenth Bow. — Over, 6 plain, seam 13, 7 plain. 

Fifteenth Bow. — Over, seam 7, slip 1, 1 plain, pass slipi>ed stitch over, 
!» plain, narrow, seam 7. 

Sixteenth Bote. — Over, 7 plain, seam 11,8 plain. 

Seventeenth Bow. — Over, seam 8. slip 1, 1 plain, pass slipped stitch over, 
7 ])lain, narrow, seam 8. 

Eitjhtecnth Bow. — Over, 8 plain, seam 9, 9 plain. 

Ninrleenth Bow. — Over, seam 9, .slip 1, 1 plain, pass slipped stitch over, 
•") plain, narrow, seam 9. 

Twentieth Bow. — Over, 9 plain, seam 7, 10 plain. 

Twenty-first Bow. — Over, seam 10, slip 1, 1 plain, i)ass slip])ed stitch 
o\ ir, 3 plain, narrow, seam 10. 

Twenty-second Bow. — Over, 10 plain, seam 5, 11 plain. 

Twenty-third Bow. — Over, seam 11, sliji 1, 1 plain, i)ass slipp<'d slitch 
over, 1 plain, narrow, seam 11. 

Twenty-fourth Bow. — Over, 11 plain, seam 3, 12 plain. 

Twenty-fifth Bow. — Over, seam 12, knit 3 together, seam 13. 

Twenty-si. >th Bow. — Over, 26 plain. 

Twenly-serenth Bow. — Over, 27 i)lain. 



Knitting. 107 

Tiocnty-cightli Row. — Over, seam 28. 

Tiveniy-nintli Row. — Over, 29 plain. 

Thirticih Row. — Over, seaui 30. 

Thirty-first Row — Over, seam 31. 

T/iirfy-.sccond Row. — Over, 32 plain. 

Thirty-third Row. — Over, seam 33. 

Thirty-fourth Row. — Over, 34 plain. 

Thirty-fifth Row.— Over, 35 plain. 

Thirty-sixth Row. — Over, seam 36. 

Thirty-scrcnth Row. — Over, 37 plain. 

Thirty-eighth Row. — Over, seam 38. 

Thirty-ninth Row. — Over, narrow, over, narrow, to the ciul of the row, 
then work off the last stitch plain.. 

Fortieth Row. — Over, seam 39. 

Forty-first Row. — Same as 39th row. 

Forty-second Row. — Over, seam 41. 

Forty-third Roio. — Same as 39th row. 

Forty-fourth Row. — Over, seam 43. 

Forty-fifth Row. — Over, 44 plain. 

Forty-sixth Row. — Over, seam 45. 

Forty-serenth Roic. — Over, 46 plain. 

Forty-eighth Row. — Over, 47 plain. 

Forty-ninth Row. — Over, seam 48. 

Fiftieth Row. — Over, 49 plain. 

Fifty-first Row. — Over, seam 50. 

Fifty-second Roto. — Over, seam 51. 

Fifty-third Row. — Over, 52 plain. 

Fifty-fourth Roiv. — Over, seam 53. 

Fifty-fifth Row. — Over, 54 plain. 

Fifty-si.rth Row. — Over, seam 55. 

Fifty-serrnth Row. — Over, seam 2, * 1 i)lain, over, 1 plain. o\( r. 1 plain, 
scam 7; repeat from * to the end of the row, seam 1. 

Fifty-eighth Row. — Over, 1 plain, * scam 5, 7 plain, seam 5, 7 ]ilaiu *; 
repeat to the end of the row, then knit 3 plain. 

Fifty-ninth Row. — Over, seam 3, "^ 2 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 2 plain, 
scam 7, 2 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 2 plain, seam 7 *; repeat to the end of 
tlie row, then seam 2. 

Sixtieth Row. — Over, 2 plain, * seam 7, 7 plain, sca?n 7 *; repeat to the 
end of the row, then knit 4 plain. 

Si.viy-first Row. — Over, seam 4, ''' 3 plain, over, 1 plain, o\ev, 3 plain, 
scam 7, 3 plain, over, 1 plain *; repeat to the end of the row, then seam 3. 

Sixty-second Roiv. — Over, 3 plain, * scam 9, 7 plain, .scam 9, 7 plain *; 
repeat to the end of the row, then 5 plain. 



108 IIU-ME DjXORATINK A^^JHK. 

Six/i/-tJiir(I llinr. — -(Jver. seam 5, * 4 ])laiii. ovei-. 1 plaiu. over. 4 plain, 
seam 7. 4 plain, over. 1 i»lain. over. 4 plain, seam 7 *; repeat to tlie end of 
the row, then seam 4. 

Sidy-fourth liou). — Over, 4 plain, * seam 11. 7 plain, .seam 11 *: njieat 
to the end of the row, then G plain. 

Sixty-fifth Row. — Over, seam 6, * 5 plain, over. 1 ])lain, over. .■> })Uun, 
seam 7, 5 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 5 plain, seam 7 *; repeat to the end of 
the row, then seam 5. 

Sixty-sixth Bow. — -Over, 5 plain, * .seam 13, 7 plain, seam i:! '■: repeat 
to the end of the row, then 7 plain. 

Sixty-seventh Bow. — Over, seam 7, * 6 plain, over. 1 plain, over, (i plain, 
.seam 7, 6 plain, over, 1 jjlain, over. 6 plain, seam 7 ' : repeat to the end (»f 
the row, then seam 6. 

Sixty-eighth Bow. — Over, (i plain, ■ .seam lo. 7 i)lain. seam 15, 7 plain *: 
n'peat to the end of the row, then 8 plain. 

Sixty-ninth Bow. — Over, seam 8, * slip 1. 1 jdain. pass slipped stitch 
over, 11 plain, narrow, seam 7, slip 1, 1 plain, pa.ss slipped stitch over, 11 
plain, narrow *; repeat to the end of the row, then seam 7, 

Secentieth Bow. — Over, 7 plain, * seam 13, 7 plain, seam 1:5 *; re]>eat to 
the end of the row, then 9 plain. 

Seventy-first Bow. — Over, .seam 9, * slip 1. 1 plain. i)ass .slijtpcd stitch 
over, 9 plain, narrow, seam 7 *; repeat to tlie end of Ihe row. then seam 8. 

Seventy-second Bow. — Over, 8 plain, * seam 11. 7 i)lain. seam 11 ■■"; re- 
peat to the end of the vow, then 10 plain. 

Seventy-third Bow. — Over, seam 10, * slip 1, 1 ]>laiu, pass slipped stitch 
over. 7 plain, narrow, seam 7 *; repeat to the end of the row, then seam 9. 

Seventy-fourth Bow. — Over, 9 plain, "■■■ seam 9, 7 i»hiin, seam 9 '■: repeat 
U> the end of the row, then 11 plain. 

Seventy-fifth Bow. — Over, seam 11, ''"slipl, 1 plain, pass slipped stitch 
over, 5 plain, narrow, seam 7 "■*; repeat to the end of the row. then seam 10. 

Seventy-si.tth Bow. — Over, 10 plain, * seam 7, 7 ])lain. seam 7 ''■': repeat 
to the end of the row, then 1:2 plain. 

Seventy-seventh Bow. — Over, seam 12. ■" slip 1. 1 ]ilaiM. i>asssli})iic<l stitch 
over, 3 plain, narrow, seam 7 *; repeat to the end dl'lhc row. then se;iin 11. 

Seventy-eighth Bow. — Over, 11 plain, * seam '■>, 7 jdaiii, scam ."«. 7 plain *: 
repeat to the end of the row, then 13 plain. 

Seventy-ninth Bow. — Over, seam 13, * slii> I. 1 iilaiii, ])ass slijipcd stitch 
over, 1 plain, narrow, seam 7 *; repeat to the iiid of the row, then seam 1:2. 

Eightieth Bow. — Over, 1'2 plain, * seam 3. 7 i)lain, seam 3. 7 i)lain '•'■; 
repeat to the end of the roAv. then 14 plain. 

Eighty-first Bow. — Over, seam 14, '^ knit :'. toncther. seam 7. Unit 3 to- 
gether, seam 7 *; repeat to the end of the row. scam 13, 

Eighty-srrond Rotr. — Over. (i9 plain. 



Ivmt'unc;. 109 

Eiijhtii-lhinl Ron-. — Over. 70 itluiii. 

Eujhtif-fourth Row. — Over, seam 71. 

Eiiihty-fiflh Row. — Over, 72 plain. 

Eighty-sixth Row. — Over, seam 73. 

This comijletes oue triangle, four of which make a square: tbity-uiue 
s<iuares complete the quilt, seven in length and seven in width. Croohefc 
tlie squares together. 

IIUNKYCUMB STKIPEI> QIII.T. 

This is knit in stripes ot'lwo kinds. Tl is a l)enutirnl jiatti-ni and ([uite 
easy to knit. 

To begin the wide or hom vcouib stripe, cast on 80 stitches. 

Fird Row. — Knit plain. 

Second Roio. — Purl. 

Third i?o(c.— Plain. 

Fourth Roic. — Knit 6, * slip 2, knit 4, * repeating from star to star to 
the end of the needle, ending with 6 plain. 

Fifth Row.— Knit the same as the fourth row. only purl instead of plain, 
and slipping the same stitches. 

Sixth Row.— The same as the fourth, plain and slip. 

Seventh Row. — The same as the fifth row, purl and slip. 

Eighth Row. — The same as the fourth row, plain and slip. 

Ninth Row. — Knit across plain, slipped stitches and all. 

Tenth Row. — Purl acros.s. 

Elercnth Row. — Plain. 

Twelfth Row. — Knit o, * slip •.'. knit 4.* and so on to the end of the 
needle, ending with 3 plain. 

Alternate rows of honeycomb must begin and end with 6 stitohes, the 
other with 3 stitches. 

For the narrow twist stripe, cast on 40 stitches. 

First and Odd Rows. — Knit across plain. 

Second and Even Roivi<. — Knit 4. purl 8, knit 4. ])nrl s. knit 4, purl 8, 
knit 4. 

Seventeenth Row. — Knit 4 plain, take a third' needle and slip the next 
tour stitxhes on it; knit the next four stitches, go back and knit the four 
stitches on the third needle; repeat this twice to the end of the needle, mak- 
ing three sets of twists with a row of gai'ter stitch between. 

Eepea.t from the first. 

It will take seven narroAv and six wide stripes. A tidy can be knit from 
the saaie directions, with either tidy cotton or linen or cotton spool tlire^, 
with a lace edge either crochetted or knit, and is very handsome. 

VINE TIDY. 

Cast on 89 stitches and knit across alternately 11 times i)lain and seam. 

Fir.tt Row. Knit 12 plain, narrow, =*' (over, narrow) 3 times, over, 1 



110 



Home Decokatia e A^^ORK. 



plain, over, 2 plaiu, slip 1, 1 plain, throw slii)pe(l stitch over, 4 i)lain, slip 
1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 2 plain, repeat from * twice, (over, nar- 
row) 3 times, over, 12 plain; commence the row again, and so continne to 
the end of the needle. 

Second and All Eien Bows. — All seamed. 

Third Bow. — Knit 11 plain, narrow, * (over, narrow") 3 times, over; 3 




Fig. 100. 
plain, over, 2 plaiu, slip 1^ 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 2 plain, slip 1, 
1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 2 plain; repeat from * twice, (over, narrow) 
3 times, over, 13 plain, and so continue to the end of the needle. 

Fifth Eoto. — Kuit 10 plain, narrow, * (over, narrow) 3 times, over, 5 
plain, over, 2 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, slip 1, 1 plain, 
pull slipped stitch over, 2 plain ; repeat from * twice, (over, narrow) 3 times, 
over, 14 plain, continue to the end of the needle. 

Seventh Bow. — Knit 12 plain, * (over, narrow) 3 times, over, 2 plain, 



Knitting. Ill 

slip 1, 1 plaiu, pull slipped stitch over, 4 plaiu, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped, 
stitch over, 2 plain, over, 1 plain; repeat from * twice, (over, narrow) 4 
times, 12 plain, continue to the end of the needle. 

Xinth J^oiv. — Knit 13 plain, * (over, narrow) 3 times, over, 2 plaiu, slip 
1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 2 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped 
stitch over, 2 plain, over, 3 plain; repeat from * twice, (over, narrow) 4 
times, 11 plain, continue to the end of the row. 

Eleventh E&iv. — Knit 14 plain, * (over, narrow) 3 times, over, 1 plain, 
slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stit«h 
•ver, 2 plain, over, 5 plain; repeat from * twice, (over, narroAv") 4 times, 
10 plain. 

Repeat to the length desired, then knit lu-ross 11 times, alternately plain 
and seam. 

Finish by knotting in fringe about four inches deep, or Avitli :i knitted 
or crochetted edge. 

APPLE-LEAF TIDY. 

Cast on as many stitches as wished for, allowing 20 stit<;hes for each 
figure, and 6 extra stitches for edge stitches. ("Edge " in this pattern means 
knit 3 plain at beginning and 3 plain at the end of the row.) Knit twice 
across plain before commencing the tidy, and twice across plain before bind- 
ing otf. 86 stitches is a good number for a tidy. 

First Row. — Edge, * seam 1, narrow, 3 plain, thread over, narrow, over, 
■arrow, over, 1 plain, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, 3 plain, narrow *: 
repeat from * to the end, edge. 

Second and All Even Bows. — All seamed. 

Third Row. — Edge,* seam 1, narrow, 2 plain, over, narrow, over, nar- 
row, over, 3 plain, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, 2 plain, narrow; repeat 
from * to end, edge. 

Fifth Row. — Edge, * seam 1, narrow, 1 plain, over, narrow, over, nar- 
row, over, 5 plain, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, 1 plain, narrow; repeat 
from * to end, edge. 

Seventh Row. — Edge,*seam 1, narrow, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, 7 
plain, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, nari'ow; repeat from * to the end, edge. 

Ninth Row. — Edge, narrow, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, 9 plain, 
over, narrow, over, narrow, over, knit 3 together, over, narrow, over, nar- 
row, over, "9 plain, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, 1 plain. (The "re- 
peat " is all written out in this row.) Edge. 

Eleventh Row. — Edge,* 1 plain, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, 3 
plain, narrow, seam 1, narrow, 3 plain, over, narrow, over, narrow, over; 
repeat from *, then 1 plain, edge. 

Tliirtecnth Row. — Edge,* 2 plain, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, 2 
plain, narrow, seam 1, narrow, 2 plain, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, 1 
plain; repeat from *, narrow. 



Ill' Home DECouAm k AVokk. 

Fifteenth Row. — Edge,* 3 plain, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, 1 
])laiii. narrow, seam 1, narrow, 1 plain, over, narrow, over, nari'OAv, over, 2 
plain ; repeat i'roni *, edge. 

Seventeenth Row. — Edge,* 4 plain, over, narrow. o\er, uaiTow, over, 
narrow, seam 1, narrow, over, narrow, over, narroAv, t)ver, .1 plain; repeat 
from*, edge. 

Ninefrcnth liotc. — Edge,* 5 plain, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, knit 
3 together, over, narrow, over, narrow, over, 4 plain ; repeat from *, edge. 

Twentieth Row. — Seam back, then hegin with first row, and so continue 
till the tidy is of the desired length. Make any pretty edge and sew it on. 
KNITTED SOFA AFGHAN. 

Three ivory needles, No. 7. Two pounds of wool of different shades. 
Make as many stripes as will make it wide enough. 

The following rule is for one stripe: 

Cast on 30 stitches, knit across plain 6 times. 

Seventh Row. — Knit 1 plain, * ,slip the next 3 on the extra needle, 
bring the needle in front, 3 plain, pass the needle to the back, 3 i^lain, now 
knit the 3 plain off the extra needle,* seam 3, 1 plain, over, seam 3, 3 
plain *. Repeat from * to * to the last 2, which are knit plain. 

Eiijhth Row. — Knit 2 plain, seam it, 3 plain, seam 2, 3 plain, seam 9, 
2 plain. 

Ninth Row. — Knit 11 plain, seam 3, 2 plain, over, seam 3, 11 plain. 

Tenth Rotv. — Knit 2 plain, seam 9, 3 plain, seam 3, 3 plain, seam 9, 2 
plain. 

Eleventh Row. — Knit 2 plain, repeat from * to * in 7th row, seam 3, 3 
plain, over, seam 3, repeat from * to * again, 2 plain. 

Twelfth Row. — Knit 2 plain, seam !). 3 plain, seam 4, 3 plain, seam 9, 
2 plain. 

Thirteenth Row. — Knit 11 plain, seam 3, 4 plain, over, seam 3, 11 plain. 

Fourteenth Rotv. — Knit 2 plain, seam 9, 3 plain, seam 5, 3 plain, seam 
9, 2 plain. 

Fifteenth Row. — Knit 2 plain, repeat from * to * in 7th row, seam 3, 
slip 1. 1 plain, pass the slipped stitch over, 3 plain, seam 3. Repeat from * 
to * again, last 2 plain. 

Si.iieerith Row. — Knit 2 plain, .seam 9, 3 ])laiu, seam 4, 3 plain, seam 9, 
2 plain. " 

Seoenlei nth Row. — Knit 11 jilain, seam :>, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped 
stitch over, 2 plain, seam 3, 11 plain. 

Eighteenth Jiow. — Knit 2 plain, seam 9, 3 plain, seam 3, 3 plain, seam 
9, 2 plain. 

Nineteenth Ron-. Knit 2 plain, repeat iVom * to * as in 7th row, seam 
3, slip 1, 1 plain, pass the slipped stitch over, 1 plain, seam 3. Repeat from 
* to *, 2 plain. 



Knitting. 113 

Tucniidh How. — Knit 2 ])lain, seam '.). r*. ])laiii, seam 2, '.i ])lain, seam 9, 
■2 plain. 

Twentji-first Row. — Knit 11 ])lain, seam 15, slip 1, 1 plain, pass the 
slipix'd stitch over, seam 3, 11 plain. 

Twenty-second Bow. — Knit 2 jdain, seam 0, '.\ plain, seam 1, 3 plain, 
seam 9, 2 plain. 

Kepeat from the seventh row till the strii)e is long enough. Crochet the 
stripes together Avith black. Add a fringe or edge made from .some of the 
rules in the first part of the chapter. 

A BEAUTIFUL DESIGN FOR AN AFGHAN. 

Cast on any number of stitches that will be a multiple of four, and 
ad<l two. 

First How. — Purl quite across. 

Second Koxc. — Knit the first stitch; then knit, purl and knit, before 
slipping the second stitch, making three stitches of one; purl the ne.vt tliBee 
together; knit, purl and knit the next stitch, making three stitches of one; 
purl the next three together, and so continue across the needle. 

Third Row. — Like the first row. 

Fourth Row. — Knit the first, purl the next three together; then knit, 
purl and knit the next before slipping, making three stitches out of one, 
etc., thus changing the order with the first row. Kemember alwaj^s to knit 
the first stitch, and to change the order of the raised figures. 

By knitting the second and fourth rows alike, the pattern will be 
striped. Every other row is to be purled. 

KNITTED CARRIAGE ROBE OR AFGHAN. 

Materials: Three pounds blue and black six-thread fleecy wool; two 
No. .5 bone needles and an extra needle. 

Cast on with blue 1 stitch, increase one every row till you have knitted 
24 plain rows. You now have 24 stitches. 

First Row. — Five plain, narrow, thread over, 1 plain, over, seam 2 to- 
gether, 5 plain, narrow, over, 1 plain, over, seam 2 together, 4 plain. To 
put thread over once before seaming, wind it round the needle, otherwise 
you will not get the extra stitch. 

Second Row. — Two plain, seam 1, irarrow, over, seam 3, over, seam 2 
together, seam 3, narrow, over, seam 3. o\'er, seam 2 together, seam 2, 2 
plain. 

Third Row. — Three plain, narrow, over, 5 plain, over, seam 2 together, 
1 ]daiu, narrow, over, 5 plain, over, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Fourth Row. — Two plain, .seam 8, over, seam 3 together, over, seam 7, 
over, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Fifth Row. — Three plain, over, seam 2 Jtogether; now * 5 plain with 
the extra needle, twist the wool four times round these 5, now knit them 
off with the right-hand needle, narrow, over, 2 plain.* Repeat from * to *. 
8 



ll-t 



lIo.ME Decorative Work. 



Sixih Mow. — Two plain, seam 1, over, seam 2 together, seam :>, narrow, 
over, seam 3, over, seam 2 together, seam 3, narrow, over, seam 2, 2 plain. 

Sevenlh Row. — P'ive plain, over, seam 2 together, 1 plain, narrow, over. 
5 plain, over, seam 2 together, 1 plain, narrow, over, 4 plain. 

Eighth Row. — Two plain, seam 3, over, seam 3 together, over, seam 7, 
over, seam 3 together, over, seam 4, 2 plain. 

Ninth Row. — Five plain, narrow, over, 1 plain, over, seam 2 together. 
5 plain on the extra needle, twist wool 4 times round and knit them off, 
narrow, over, 1 plain, over, seam 2 together, 4 plain. 

Tenth Roir. Two yilain, seam 1, narrow, over, seam I', <)\('r. seam 2 




Vm. iul. 



together, seam 



together, scam :'., narrow, over, seam 3, over, seam 
plain. 

Eleventh Row. — Three plain, narrow, over, 5 plain, over, seam 2 together, 
1 plain, narrow, over, 5 x>lain, over, seam 2 together, 2 })lain. 

Twelfth Row. — Two plain, seam 8, over, seam 3 together, o^■er, seam 7, 
over, seam 2 together, 2 plain. 

Kepeat from fifth row. Work about one yaid and fourteen inches to a 
stripe, remembering to taper oflf to one stitch at the end to match the begin- 
ning. The next stripe is black, but is all done in plain knitting, com- 
mencing with 1 stitch, and widening uj) to 21, and finishing at the end like 
the first strijje. On the blue stripes fasten blue tassels; on the black stripes 
fasten black tassels. 

On the i)lain black siripcs, witli a coarse worsted needle, work large blue 
stars about four inches anart. 



Knitting. 1 15 



Remarks on Stocking Knitting. 

THi: IIKKI.. 

The licel always seems to jneseut mouiilains of (lillicult y. The I'oUow- 
5ng ]tatteru is one of the best: 

Divide your stitehes. "We will say you liave .■)() altogether on :} needles; 
take 12 ou each side of the seam-stitch and knit these 25 backward and 
forward in roAvs, not rounds (making the seam stitch all the same i; you 
must seam backward so as to keep the knitting even. Continue until you 
have made a flap about ',i inches long, always slipping the first knitted 
stitch. Now knit j)laiu from the right-hand side, the 12 stitches, then the 
seam stitch, which you do uot make again, 4 plain, narrow, 1 plain, turn, 
seam until you get to 4 beyond the seam stitch, seam 2 together, seam 1, 
turn, knit idain until you come to the stitch in the previous row where you 
turned — you may know it easily by the little hole which was formed by the 
turning; you now narrow once, 1 plain, then turn; seam the next row, of 
course always seaming 2 together where the little hole has been left, and so 
on until you have gradually worked oft" the stitches. You then pick up the 
side stitches of this flap and the heel is finished. 

TO DECKK.VSE FOR THE TOE. 

Put half your stitches on one needle, one-quarter ou t lie second, and a 
quarter on the third needle. 

Tluis: suppose you liave (j<) stitches, you must lia\e l>0 on one side and 
1.1 on each of the other two. 

The 30 must be the front or ii1)hed part, the 2 needles with 1.") stitclies 
on them ought to be the sole part. In doubling your knitting now, t lie 
front part ought to lie evenly on the sole of the foot. Begin and knit the 
30 stitches by — 27 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, pass the slipped stitch over, 1 plain. 
Now begin next needle, 1 plain, narrow, knit plain to the end of the needle. 
Now begin the third needle, 12 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, pass slipped stitch o\(r. 
1 plain. Now go back again to the :>0 stitches, 1 plain, narrow, knit plain 
to the end of the needle. Do 2 rounds ])lain, and then decrease again in the 
sjmie manner 4 stitches in every round, leaving always 2 stitches between 
the decreasing, remembering always to do two rounds of plain knitting 1)e- 
tweentlie decreasing rounds. Repeat for two inches, bind off. Some people 
only do one round between the decreasing; this plan makes the toe rounder 
and more jiuckered. 

LADIK.S' PEA IX .SIl.Iv STOCK IXCiS. 

Four needles No. 16. Ca>st ou 40 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit 2 
seam, 2 plain, for H rounds. Now begin to knit plain, making the lirat 
stitch the seam stitch. You need not widen for the calf. ^Vhen 12 inches are 



IIG 



Home DECoKAT^^E Wokk. 



knitted, tlecrease every fifth row iiutil you have ouly 84 stitches on your 
needles. 

AVheu the (stocking is 20 inches long, divide lor the heel, by taking 21 
stitches on each side of the seam stitch. Knit the heel as directed. Pick 
up tlie side stitches. Make the foot 9 inches long, making the toe as before 
described. 

J.ADIES' KNITTED SII.K STOCKINGS. 
Materials: 3 J ounces of coarse knitting silk, and 4 steel needles No. 18. 
Cast 49 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit plain 21 rounds. 

Twenty-second Bound. — Thread over, knit 3 to- 
gether, alternately all round. 

Twcnty-tliird Bound. — Knit 1 ])liiin, .seam 1, 1 
plain, alternately, all round. 

In the next round seam the middle stitch of the 
last needle; this forms the back seam and is seamed 
in e\ery round. (A piece of yarn or cotton tied 
where the seam stitch comes Avill aid the knitter.) 
Knit 11 inches or 230 rounds ijlain, then commence 
to narrow for the ankle. This is done by knitting 2 
stitches together before, and 2 after the .seam in 
every 7th round for 17 rounds: this brings the num- 
ber of stitches to 113. 

Knit 3 inches plain for tlic ;itikle without in- 
crease or decrease. 

Divide the stitches for the heel, placing 28 on 
each side the seam, and leaving 56 on the two front 
needles. On the heel stitches knit 48 rows, 1 row 
|)lain, ^vhen the right side is toward you, and 1 row 
seamed when from you. 

Knit the gusset for the heel as follows: 29 
stitches j)lain, narrow, turn, seam 3, seam 2 together, 
turn, 5 plain, narrow, turn; repeat until all the side 
stitches are taken in. Now with another needle 
pick up the stitches on each side of the heel. Knit 
all round once to the right-hand side of the heel. To 
decrease to form the gusset of the foot, knit first stitch plain, slip the second, 
third stitch plain, i)ass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit to within 
3 stitches of the end of the next needle, then slip 1, 1 plain, pass slipped 
stitch over, knit the last one plain. Knit a plain row between every decrease. 
Continue to decrease in this way until there are only 113 stitches re- 
maining. Knit plain 88 rounds for the foot, or about 4} inches. Then 
decrease for the toe as follows: arrange the stitches so that the number of 
stitches on the front needle is equal to those of tlie two under needles to- 




FiG. lOi 



Knitting. 1 1 7 

getlier; knit liist tstiUh plain, slip tlu' sciontl, third plain, pass slij^ped stitih 
over, knit plain across to within 3 stitclics of the end of the needle, slip the 
next stitch, 1 plain, pass the slipped stitch over, knit the last one plain: de- 
(uease the .same at the hegiuning of the second and at the end of the third 
needle. Continue thus with a plain round between until only 20 .stitches 
remain. Now bind oft". The top of the stocking is turned down an inch 
and neatly hemmed on the wrong side. The inste]» may be embroidered, if 
desired, with silks of contra.sting shades. 

gentleman's riubeo silk hose. 

Materials required: 2.} ounces coar.se knitting silk in any shade: .'. ounce 
ditl'erent shade for heels and toes; four Xo. 19 steel needles. 

Cast 114 stitches on three needles. Knit around once plain, then knit 
ribs by knitting 2 plain, 1 seam, all round for about 60 rounds, which will 
measure about three inches; then knit ribs, o stitclies plain. 1 seam all 
round, till you have 6^ inches in wide ribs. 

Comnu'uce the heel by putting in your ] ounce shade on one needle, 59 
stitches, preserving the ribs of 5 plain, seam 1, across the needle, returning 
seam 5, 1 plain; always slip the first stitch. Knit 60 rows like this. Now 
decrease as follows: 

Sixty-fird FiOW. — (Five jdaiu, seam 1)3 times, 4 i)lain, slip 1, 1 jilain, 
pull slipped stitch over, 11 i)lain, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 4 
jtlain, (seam 1, .I plain) 3 times.' Return, knitting .seamed stitches plain and 
plain stitches seamed; do this in every ))ackward row, forward rows plain. 

Sixty-third Ron- . — (^Five plain, sean\ 1) 3 times, 3 plain, slip 1, 1 ]ihiin, 
pull slipped stitch over, 11 plain, .slipl. 1 plain, pull slipped .stitch over. 3 
plain, (seam 1, 5 plain) 3 times. 

Sixty-fifth Row. — (Five plain, .seam 1 i :} times,:} ])lain, .slip 1, 1 ))lain, 
pull slipped stitch over, 11 plain, slip 1. 1 ]»lain. ]mll slipped stitch over, 2 
l)laiu, (seam 1, 5 plain) 3 times. 

Sixty-seventh Row. — (Five plain, seam 1 i 3 times, 1 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, 
pull slipped stitch over, 11 plain, slipl. 1 plain. i)ull sli]>])cd stitch oM-r, 1 
plain, (seam 1, .'> plain) 3 times. 

Si.ity-ninih Row. — (Five plain, scam li3 times, slip 1, 1 plain, pull 
sli)>pcd stitch over, 11 plain, slip 1. I idnin. pull slipiicd stitch over, (seam 
1, 5 i>lain) 3 times. 

Seventieth Row. Al'tvv svnnnn<x.i\u- 11 middle stitches, tnrn, knit hack. 
knitting the last stitch of the 11 with t lie one next it together; proceed in 
rows, knitting plain and seaming, but at the end of each low knit together 
the last stitch of the tongue, or middle part, with the tirst of tlie adjoining 
side stitches, till the side stitches have been used up. This forms tiie 
French heel. Now with the shade of .silk you started with, pick up and 
knit toward the left, 1 stitch in ca<h l(M)p on the side of the heel, excejit in 
every sixth loop, where 2 stitches should be worked ]ilain and twist stitch. 



lis Home DECoifATi\E "\\\)i:k. 

'rhe jslitclus Iteing all picked u]), kuit one round, pkicing the whole of 
the iustep stitches on one needle (seaming and knitting tliese plain to pre- 
ser\e seven ribs), save two stitches at each end, which are transferred to 
the two side needles, on Avhich the other stitches are equally placed, the di- 
vision being at the middle of the bottom of the foot. From this point the 
knitting advances regularly round and round. The narrowing for the guis- 
set is always made on the instep end of each of the side needles. 

First Hound of the Foot. — Beginning at the center of the heel w ith the 
first side needle, knit i)lain till wdthiu 4 stitches of the end, then narrow, 2 
plain. Knit across the instc]) needle, seaming the 8 stitches wliich make the 
seven ribs, viz.: one before, one between, one after, each row of live. This 
brings you to the second side needle: 2 plain, slip!, 1 plain, pull slipped 
stitch over, rest plain. 

Second Bound. — Without decreasing. Kepeat these two rounds till 
there are 11-1 stitches on the needles. Tlie gussets are then finishe<l. 

Put back on the instep needle each end, two stitches from the side 
needles. Continue knitting till the required length of the foot is obtained, 
the instep stitches being ribbed till the narrowing of the toe begins, which 
is kuit plain. Change the color of the silk lor the toe like that of the heel. 
Commence the middle of the instep needle. Knit all but 3 stitches, slip 1, 
1 ])laiu, pull slipped stitch over, 1 plain; on next needle, 1 plain, narrow, 
knit jdain irntil 3 are left; slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipjied stitch over, 1 plain; 
at first corner of instep needle, 1 plain, nanow, knit to the middle of the 
needle. This completes the first round of decreasing for the toe. Knit 
plain :> rounds, then decrease in the next round as before. Knit ]ilaiu 3 
rounds, tlien decrease as before, and so on to the end. 

KXITTEI) STOCKIXUS FOR GIRLS KR(>:\t FIVK IM Si:Vi:.V VK.VRS OI.I). 

Cast .->0 stitches on each of three needles. 

Fimt to Tentli Jiounds. — All kuit ])i:iin. 

F/erenfJi Hound. — .Vlternately thread oxci. nanow. all round. 

Tu-elfth J'omid. — All knit plain. 

Tliirieenth to Tirentieth Rounds. — I'^iisl like clt•^"(■ntll row. Ilicn like 
twelfth row, all round. 

Fold down the fust 1:2 rounds on the wrong side for the lieni. .iiid sew 
down nicely to Ibrm a neat finish lor the toji. 

Tirenty-first 1,'ound. '-M )nc jjlain, over, slip 1. 1 |iiaiii, i)ull slipjied stih'h 
over. 3 plain, narrow, over, and repeat from *. 

Twenty-seeondJiound. -'{"wo plain, "' o\cr. slij) 1. 1 plain, jiull slipped 
stitch over, 1 jjlain, narrow, over, 3 plain, and rejx'at iVoiii \ but linally in- 
stead of 3 plain, knit only 1 ]ilain. 

Tuenty-thlrd Uouud. — Three })lain, * over. slii> I. narrow, ])ull sli|>ped 
stitch over, over, o j)lain. and repeat from ', )>ut linally instead of ."> jdain, 
knit :; ])l;un. 



KMTTlNCi. 



119 



Twcniji-fnurth Hound. — All knit plain. 

Ropcat 72 times the twenty-second to twenty-tif'th rounds, always trans- 
posing the design. For the curve at the knee, work WH inserted rounds be- 
tween the eighteenth and nineteenth ]»at1cru figures on the middle 42 
stitches, which are taken up on a separate needle. Of course, the rounds 
worked on tlie wrong side should always be seamed to correspond with the 
design, and at the end of each round the next of 
tlie stitches left standing in the coui-se of the in- 
si rted rounds should always be knit up, so that 
riiKilly only 42 stitches remain standing. Theu 
continue to work, always going Ibrward, and iu 
tlu! lirst round of the tAventieth pattern figure 
fasten together the middle 14 of the 42 stitches 
]ireviously left standing with 1 stitch, and, atter 
an interval of 14 rounds belbre and after these 14 
stitches, again fasten together 14 stitches in the 
same manner. In the first round of the thirty- 
third pattern figure, above tliese three narrowings, 
widen 2>< stitdies, making 54 stitches on 2.^ stitches 
tlierc. At the Ijcginuing ol" the first round of tlie 
fifty-seventh and filty-uinth jjattern figures, iu a 
straight direction above the widening, narrow 14 
stitches, lasteuing them together Avith 1 stitch. 
After finishing the seventy-second pattern figure, 
lake up the first and last stitches on a separate 
needle for the heel, knit the latter. 44 rounds 
high, and finish in the usual nuuiner. Next take 
up the edge-stitches on needles, and knit the 
stitches for the sole all plain, and the stitdies of 
the front, which were previously lett standing;, iu 
Fui. loa. ^]j,. openwork design (58 rounds high, in doing 

which, narrow on lioth sides of the heel. The toe is worked in (Id rounds, 
all knit plain in the usual manner. 

Throu'di the hem at the top run l)Lue silk ribbon gathered on elastic 
braid, and tied in a bow on tlu' outside in adjusting the stocking. 




:;o on each of two 



]{.\ll.i;(>AI> Sl(><KlN<iS. 

Four balls of coarse knitting silk. 

Cast 96 stitches on three medium-si/ed needle: 
needles, 36 on the third. 

Knit round and round without increase or decrease till you liave a long 
slim pipe eighteen inches long. It will be hardly large enough for a 
■wristlet, and a laujihable looking tliini: wlien styled a stocking: but now 



120 



Home Decorative Work. 



knit rouud one row, and drop every 4th stitch (knit 3 jilain and drop the 
4th) . This makes the pipe 24 stitches smaller. Now knit round about 20 
times, and then toe otf. No heel is necessary. Put your finger in the 
stocking against the under part of a dropped stitch, and ravel it out to the 
top. Make e\ cry dropped stitch to run and you will instantly have a striped 
openwork stocking elastic enough for the largest leg. The dropped stitch 
makes a little ladder, as pretty as any openwork design. It is a poor foot, 
indeed, that will not find the railroad stocking as nice as the best "regular 
make. ' ' 

KNITTED SII.K STOCKINGS FOE A CHILD OF TWO YEAKS. 

Two ounces of silk, tour No. 18 needles. * 

Cast 72 stitches on one needle, and knit off on three needles, 24 on each 
needle. Join and knit a plain round. 

Second ami Third Hounds. — Seam. 
Fourth Round. — *One plain, thread over, 
2 plain, sli]i 1. narrow, draw the slipped 
.stitch over the knitted stitch, 2 plain, over, 
repeat from *. 

Fifth Round.— AW plain. 
Repeat fointli and lifth rounds li>ur 
times more. 

Fourteenth and Fifteenth Rounds. — All 
seamed. 

Sixteenth Round. — Like the fourth. 
Seventeenth Round. — All plain. 
Repeat these two rounds four more times. 
Twenty-sixth and Turnti/seventh J.'oiinds. 
— All seamed. 

Twentrj-eighth Round.— Krni plain. 
Twenty -ninth Round. — Narrow, * ])ut the 
thread forward, then round the needle, nutk- 
ing 2 stitches, narrow; repeat from *. 

Thirtieth Round.— Kmi plain (knit 1 
stitch only on the 'over'' or make stitches 
Fio. 10-4. of the last round k 

Thirty-first Rouud. — Knit plain. 
Thirty-second and Thirty-third Rounds. — Seamed. 

This rouud ends the heading or ornamental top of the stocking. You 
now increase a stitch by knitting 1 between the two nee4;lles; this stitch is 
io Ibrm the seam stitch to the leg. 
The leg: Knit two rounds plain. 

TJiird and Fourth Rounds. — Seam 1. ■ 2 i>lain. scam fi. niwat iVom *. 
Fifth and Sixth A'ow/c/.s.— Plain. 




Knitting. 121 

Srvrnth and Eighth I\i)iui(h. — Knit 1 jilain, * si-aiii (i. 'i jUain. ■•■ r(|Kat 
from *. 

Now repeat from the tirst round of the leg. Kuit forty-four rounds in 
tliis manner, then decrease 1 stitch on each side of the seam stitch, knit four 
rounds with no decreasings, make four rounds of decreasings, and lour 
rounds between each without any decreasings, then knit fourteen rounds ac- 
cording to the pattern. 

Divide for the heel. Take 32 stitches, 16 on the fii-st and last needles, 
for the heel. Knit 26 rows of plain and seam knitting alternately on these 
32 stitches, then form the heel as follows: Take the 7 middle stiichcs. 
* knit them, and as you knit the la.st, knit it and the 8th stitch together, 
turn, seam these 6 and the 7th and the ne.xt stitch on the needle together, 
turn; reiieat from * until you have <mly the 7 stitches left on the needle. 
At the end of the last 7 stitches raise lo stitches on the side of the he»'l (the 
26 rows), then knit the stitches left in the front (knit according to pattern) 
raise 15 stitches on the next side of the heel. Knit four rounds (the pattern 
in front, plain underneath). 

Fifih Round. — Knit the 2 tirst stitches and 2 hist stitches of the plain 
under part together, the rest as before. The next 4 rounds like the lirst 4. 

Tenth Round. — Like the .5th round. Kuit 24 rounds more (plain under- 
neath, the pattern in front), then knit 5 rounds plain all round. 

You now commence the decreasings for the toe. Knit the first needle 
all but the last 3 stitches. This is the second needle on the under part of 
the foot. Narrow, 1 plain, 1 plain on the second needle, narrow, knit to the 
last 3 on this needle, knit the first 2 of them together, 1 plain, 1 plain on 
*the third needle, narrow, finish the needle, knit two rounds plain, re[)eat 
'the round of decreasings. Knit in this manner until you have only 12 
stitches each on the front and back needles. Rind off. and sew up the toe. 

KXITTKM I.i:(i<iIN(;s. 

Materials required: three ounces of Starliglit zephyr or ( Jermaulown 
yarn and four steel needles. No. 14. 

Commence at the top of the leg. 

Cast on 72 stitche.s, that is, 24 on each of iluee needles: knit 2 ]ilain, 
seam 2, alternately for two inches and a lialf; then seam three rounds. 

For the openwork part of tlie leg: 

First and Third Rounds. — One plain, over. 2 plain, knit :» together. 2 
plain, over, repeat from beginning of round. 

Second and Fourth Jiounda. — Plain. 

Fifth and Sixth Round.'i. — Seam, and then repeat from the fii-st nuMid 
until you have done seven inches, measuring I'rom the top. 

Now c-ommence to decrease the leg; mark a stitch for the center of the 
back, and narrow in every tliird round, taking care to keep the patterns in 



122 Home DECOKATI^E A\'oi{k. 

ail o\eii line, one above another: Avork two and one-half indies more «tl' the 
openwork, then four rounds plain knitting, and three rounds seamed. 

In the ribbed pattern of the ankle, work two inches of seam 1, 1 plain, 
alternately; divide the stitches as yon would for a stocking, half on one 
needle for the heel, and half divided on two needles for the front; work the 
heel in ribbed knitting, but as it is not in the round, the seam stitch luust 
be knitted, and the knitted stitch seamed in each alternate row to keep the 
]»attern even; work two and one-half inches and bind off. Pick up 12 
stitches from the side of the heel, and put them on a needle with 3 stitches 
from the front; Avork across the front — all but the last 3 stitches — in the 
rilibcd pattern; with another needle knit the last 3 stitches, and pick up 12 
stitches from the side of the heel; seam the side stitches and knit and seam 
across the front. 

First Eoic. — Nine plain, narrow, knit across the liout of the foot, still 
retaining the ribbed pattern; knit 2 stitches on the next needle, narrow, 
knit to the end ot the row. 

Second Row. — Seam the knitted and knit the seamed stitches of the 
last row. 

Continue to repeat these two rows until all the stitches at the side of 
the heel are taken in. then work on the front stitches only in the ribbed pat- 
tern, decreasing one stitch by narrowing at the beginning of every row until 
you have worked the front the length required. Now pick up on three 
needles the stitches at the side of the foot and at the ))ack of the heel, and 
.seam in the round with the toe stitches for four rounds; then l>iiul off. Cro- 
chet a shell edge around the foot part. 

KNITTED LEGGINGS FOR <HII,n FROM OXE To TWO YEARS OIJ). 

Materials; one and a half ounces blue and one ounce white single zephyr; 
four needle.s. No. 14. (See Fig. 104.) 

Cast on with blue 65 stitches, 22 on each of two needles, 21 on the 
third, join; 2 plain, seam 2, for two inches. Now with white knit twelve 
]ilaiii rounds, seaming the eleventh stitch of the la.st needle every time to 
form the seam at the back of the leg. 

TMtieenth Bound. — Seam Avith blue wool, widen belore and alter scam 
stitcli. 

Fourteenth and Fifteenth Rounds. — Knit plain with blue. 

Si.rteenth, Seventeenth and Eighteenth Rounds. — Knit ])lain with Avhite; 
continue to seam three rows Avith Idue, and three Avith white plain, seven 
times more, increasing in the eighteenth and twenty-third rows, before and 
alter the seam stitch, and decreasing by narrowing belore and after the 
scam stitch, in the twenty-eighth, thirty-third, thirty-eighth, forty-third, 
forty-ninth, fifty-.si.xth and sixty-third rows; the fifty-eighth 1o the sixty- 
third rows are knitted with white avooI; bind off. 



Kmtting 



1-23 



Imh- the loot, cast on with blue 48 stitt Iks on one iifcdU-. Knit loriy 
])laiu rows, )»imloft"15 stitches, and continue to knit on the remaining '.V.i 
stitches until jou have knit enough rows to go around the heel. Bind off 
and finish Avith a crochettcd edge. Tlie foot is sewed to the leg. and the 
opening is fastened with pearl buttons, ^^ew on a leather stra)» to go under 
the I'tM.t. 

I'.Ar.Y's Jjoors. 
Two needles No. l(i. lialTan ounce i»ink and lialfau ounce wliite saxony. 
Cast on •")() stitclies witli Ihi^ pink. 

Firxf. Jioir. — .Vli plain. 

Second How. — Three plain, * .seam :>. 2 i)lain *; 
repeat from star to star to the last :i stitches, whicii 
are done plain. 

Now do tin- third and louilli rows like tiie 
second row. 

FIffh Jiou-.^AW plain. 
Si.rlh lioic. — All seanu'd. 

Scirnth Row. — Slip first stitch. * narrow*; re- 

])(at from star to star, to the last one which is ])lain. 

F.iijhih Jiow. — >!lip 1, ""'thread over. 1 plain *; 

rfi>cat from star to star. You ought now to liave 

r.O stitches. 

Xinlh 1,'oir. — All plain. 
Tciiih I'ow. — Seam every .stitcii. 
Eli'vcnih Bow. — Slip 1, narrow; continue to 
narrow until you come to the last stitch Avliich 
must be knit plain. 

Twelfth How. — Same as eiglitli, 
Thhieenih Jiow. — All i»lain. 
Foioteeuili Jiow. — All seamed. 
Now join on the white, make one plain low, 
tiicn nine rows of ril)hing (.seam "i. "J ))hiinV but 
remember to do :> plain stitches at the beginning and :*. at the end. 
Tenth h'ow All jilain. 
JUerenth />'«»•.— All seamed. 

Twelftli How. — Slip I,"' narrow.* rei>eat from star to star lollie hist stit<l»^ 
whitlv is jdairt. 

Thirteenth A'o/r.— Slip 1, * over. 1 plain *. repeat fr<)m star to star. You 
sluuild have now .'»() stitches on tin- needle. 
I'oititef nth How.— AW ]>lain. 
Fifteenth How. — AH seamed. 

Repeat last tour rows, three times, so as to have four rows of holes; do 
not get on inttre than ■'><l stitches. 




124 



Home DECoiiATivi: A\"okk. 



Joiu im the piiik wool. 

Sixteenth Row. — Slip 1. narrow 10 plain, narrow, 20 i)lain. narrow. 10 
plain, narrow, 1 plain. 

Second Roto of Pink. — All ]>lain. 

Tliird Row. — Slip 1, narrow, knit plain to last 2, which are knit tonether. 

Fourth Row. — All plain. 

Fifth Row. — Knit 14 plain, join the v.hite, 10 plain, turn round and 
work on these 16 stitches in white, leax ijig the pink on the needle without 
working it. Seam a row. 

Then * slip 1, narrow *; repeat from star to star. 

The next row slip 1, then * OAer, 1 plain'''; repeat from star to star. 
You ought now to have If? stitches. 




Fm. iuo. 

One plain row, one seam row. 

Repeat last four rows, four times. 

Bind off the white, and go on Avith the pink on the right-hand side. 

Pick up 11 stitches from the side of the white flap, make 11 stitches; 
knit fourteen plain rows. 

Fiflccnih Row.--* HWi) 1, narrow • : repeat. 

Si.rlatith Row. ^ AW plain. 

Scvciilcoith Row. — Slip 1, narrow, rest plain. 

Kiijhtccuth Row. — All plain. 

Nineteenth Row. — Slip 1, narnnv, narrow; the vest ])lain knitting until 
you come to within ?> of the end, narrow, 1 jdain. 

Twentieth Rotv.—A\\ plain. 

Twenty-first Row. — Slip 1, luirrow, narrow, continue lo knit ]i 
witliin T) of the heel, when you narrow, narrow, 1 plain. 

Twenty-Si iiiiiij liow. All ]>lain. 



till 



Knitting. 



125 



Tnruiii-third Jloiv. — .Slij) 1. iiairow, narrow, all i)laiii to the last 2 which 
narrow. 

Twentji-fourth Row. — All plain. 

Tircnln-Jifth liou\ — Slip 1, narrow, rest ]ilain. 

TicPiity-xi.cth lion. \\\ plain. 

Twrulij-scrcnih J\oa\ — Slip 1, narrow, rest jjlain. 

Tircnti/-(if/hth Row. — Plain, biml otV. 

Pick up 11 stitches to form the toe. 

First Roio. — All plain. Then increase at the toe at llie beginning of 
every row until you have 18 stitches. Three rows plain. Narrow every 
other time at the toe till you have 11 stitches. Pick up 1 1 white stitches at 
the side of the flap, still knitting with pink, and take np the 14 stitches at 
the end of the flap. 

Fourteen plain pink rows. 

Go back to * at the fifteenth row, and end at the twenth-eighth row. 
Bind off. 

AXOTIIER I'.AHV'S BOOT. 

Cast on 54 stitches. 

KTiit one row plain, soani one vow, knit twenty-two rows, increasing oa 




Fig. 107. 
the third stitch of every row. There should now be 75 stitches on the 
needle. Seam one row, knit twenty-two rows, decreasing by knitting the 
second and third stitches together in every row. Tliere should now be 54 



126 



Home Decor atui: Work. 



stitches. Seam one row, iiuieasing on the third stitch. Cast t)n ".id stitches 
J" r the heel. There should now be 76 stitches. Knit eighteen rows, scam 
Ltne row and knit ten rows, increasing at the toe end only. There will now 
be 90 stitches. Knit 50 stitches, leaving 10 stitches on another needle, and 
knit backward and forward lor the front of the foot, as follows: 
First 7?oir.— Knit r)0. 
Second Hoir. — Seam nO. 

Third liow. — One plain, narrow — twenty-four times. 

Fourth liDir. Knit 1 jjlain, over, seam to the end. These four rows 
fori", the pattern, and must be repeated eight times more. 

1 lake 40 stitches for the side of the foot. Ten rows plain, seam one 
row, eighteen rows plain, decreasing at the toe end only; bind off. 

For the leg: Take up the 40 stitches on the side, knitting also 22 
stitches for the front; then knit the 40 left on the .spare needle, one row 
plain, seam one row, one row of holes (by putting the silk tAvice round the 
needle and narrowing). Stam one row, tlicii ten patterns the same as the 
front of the foot. 

Furtj/seeond Boir. — Knit :{ 
]>luin, seam 15, 3 plain, seam ',',, to 
tlie end of the row. 

Forty-third, Forty-fourth. For- 
/ij-(i<jhth, Forty-ninth and Fiftieth 
lio ((• — Li ke forty-second . 

Fnrly-Jifth, Forty-sijth and 
Forly-screnth Hous. — Seain :>. M 
lilain, seam 3, 3 plain, to the end. 
Fifty-jird J!ow. —Plain. 
Kei)eat like the tifty-lirst live 
times more. Bind off on the 
wmng side. 

lady's kxitted boot. 
It is made of black knitting 
silk and .sewed to a cork sole. 

Begin on the under edge of 
Fio. 108. the boot. Cast 340 stitches <m 

steel needles, join and knit 1 20 plain rounds. In doing this always knit 
3 together as one on the middle of the front of the foot in every other round 
of the lir.st sixty-eight ronnd.s. The stitch formed by knitting 3 together 
ibrms the middle stitch, and in narrowing this mu.st always be knitted with 
<me stitch at each side of it. In the last fifty-eight rounds narrow 
in this manner m every round. After the 12fith round follow si.xty-cight 
rounds, alternately seam 2. 2 plain; then bind off. Crochet a border around 
the top. (Fig. 108.) 




Knitting. 1'27 

KNITTED SLIPPERS. 

Materials: four ounces of l)lu«' douhU': ]U'rlin ^vool, and lour ouii(<s of 
white; three bone knitting nerdlos and a pair of lamh's-wool soles. 

Commence the slipper at the toe with hlue wool; cast on 10 stitclu-s and 
increase one by jjuUing the wool forward, after the first stitch and before 
the last stitch of each alternate row. When knitting every other row, pass 
the white wool between every stitch, leaving a loop of about an inch on one 
side and drawing it tight on the other side. In knittinji the next row the 




FlU. 3 0U. 

white wool is not used, but is drawn straight across the woik. Continue to 
knit backward and forward until the slipper is wide enougli across the 
instep. Then divide the stitches, bind olf 10 stitches in the middle, and 
with a third needle continue to work as before on one-half without increase, 
until you have made the length from the instep to the back of the heel. 
IMnd off and work the other flap the same, join up the back of the heel with 
needle and wool, and line with some soft material, if liked. Sew the bot- 
tom of the slipper to the sole, and trim the top with pleated ribbon and 
a bow. 

AXUTMKK KNITTKI) SI.IPPKK. 

Materials rec^uind: one skein each of dark and light Germantown 
zephyr, and medium sized steel needles. 

Cast on 14 stitches, using the dark wool, and knit across plain four 
times, widening each time by picking up a stitch and knitting it before 
knitting the last one on the needle. You now have 18 stitches. Now, slip 
off 2 stitches Avithout knitting them; then with the light wool knit 2 and 
slip 2, repeating to the end of the row. Turn, and slip 2 stitches; then 
seam 2, slip 2, and repeat to the end of the row. Knit two more rows like 
the la.st two, then knit four plain rows w ith the dark wool, widening as 
before. 

Now take up the light wool again, and knit four rows, .slipping 2 and 
knitting 2 across the first and third, and slipping 2 and seaming 2 across the 
second and fourth. On these four rows you must not widen. 

Continue knitting in this way, using tlie light and dark wool alter- 
nately until you have sixty-five stitches on the needle, then knit twenty-two 
stitches, take another needle and bind oft' twenty-two, then knit the re- 



12.S HoMK Decorative Work. 

maiiiing tweuty-one, widening as l)efore, which will give twenty-two stitches 
f>n 1 hat needle also. 

\ow knit l)ack and forth, using light and dark wool alternately, but 
not widening with either until you have a strip long enough to reach to 
the hack of the heel; then bind otf, knit the other strip in the same way, and 
sew up the back. 

Crochet a row of holes around the top, and then a row of scallops. Run 
elastic tape in the holes, and sew a bow of ribbon on the front. 

The slippers are to be sewed to the fleece-lined cork soles. 
KNITTED SLIPPERS WITH ROLL TOP. 

Materials required: four ounces each of Iduc, and white Berlin wool; 
four i)ins. No. 12; a pair of cork soles. 

Begin at the toe, with the blue wool, and cast on ten stitches. When 
knitting with the white wool, use from two l)alls at the same time. 

First Bow. — Knit plain. 

Second Bow. — Over, *knitl, take the double Avhite wool and turn it 
twice over the pin to form a loop of about three-fourths of an inch; with the 
left-hand ])in pass the last knitted stitch over the four loops of white; knit 
2; repeat from the star to the end of the row. 

Third Row. — Over, slip the loop of Avhite; knit the blue, passing the 
blue wool with which you are knitting around the double white wool. In 
knitting the next stitch, this will draw the white close to the work, and so 
carry it to the other side to be ready for making the next row of loops. 

Fourth Bow. — Over, knit the blue stitches plain; knit the four white 
loops at the back as one stitch. 

Fiftji Row. — Over, knit plain to the end of the row. 

Repeat from the second row, increasing at the beginning of each row, 
uutil the work is wide enough across the instep, then divide the work for 
the sides, casting off ten stitches in the middle. 

Work the side stitches as you did the instep, but without either in- 
creasing or decreasing, until the strip is long enough to reach to the back of 
the heel; then cast off and work the other side in the same way. Sew the 
seam in the heel with the wool. 

Now pick up the stitches around the top of the slipper on three of the 
pins; with the fourth, knit as on a stocking. Knit ten rows, seaming one 
stitch and knitting one plain, then bind off, and hem the piece down to the 
top of the slipper in the inside, to form a roll around the edge. 

CHEMISE YOKE IN KNITTING. 

This dainty trimming, shown in Fig. 110, may be knit either in linen 
or cotton, fine or coarse, as desired, to corres^wnd with the material. Baby 
ribbon or narrow velvet is run into the two rows of holes to make it fit 
neatlv aronnd the neck. 



Knitting. 129 

Cast on -24 stitclies. (Always kuit 1 aud purl 1 in the stitclu-s made by 
throw iiig the thread over the needle twice.) 

First Jiotc. — Slii) 1, knit ;*:>. 

Sceoud Row. — Same as first ro\> . 

Third Roic. — Slip 1. narrow, thread over twice, narrow, knit 14, nar- 
row , thread over twice, narrow, knit 1. 

Fourth Bow. — Like the first. In the made stitches, knit 1, i)iirl 1, 
makii'.ji; 24 stitches in the row. 

Fifth Eoiv, — Like the first. 

Si.fth Row. — Like the third. 

Screnth Emc.^hike the fourth. 

Kif/hth ^OH'.— Like the filth. 

yinth Row. — Slip 1, narrow, thread over twice, nan^w, knit •">. narrow 
over twice, narrow, knit 5, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 1. 




Fkj. 110. 

Tenth Row. — Like the fourth. 

Eleventh Row. — Slip 1, knit 7, narrow, over twice, narrow . narrow, over 
twice, narrow, knit 8. 

Twelfth Row. — Slip L nan-ow, over twice, narrow, kuit 14, narrow, 
over twice, narrow, knit 1. 

Tliirtcenth Row. — Slip 1, knit 5, narroAV, over twice, narrow, narrow, 
over twice, narrow, narrow, over twdce, narrow, narroAv, over twice, nar- 
row, knit 6. 

Fourteenth Row. — Slip 1, knit 23. 

Fifteenth i?ou'.— Slip 1, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 3, narrow, 
over twice, narrow, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 3, narrow, over twice, 
narrow, knit 1. 

Sixteenth A'oit'.— Slip 1, kuit 23. 

SecenteenthRow.—^lip 1, knit 9, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 10. 

Eighteenth Row. — Slip 1, narrow, over twice, narrow, knit 14, nan-ow, 
over twice, narrow, knit 1. 

Repeat from the first row. When length sufficient is obtained, join the 
ends and crochet the edge as follows: 
9 



130 Homp: Decokative Wokk. 

I^irst Bow. — Single (rtx-het into the knitted edge. 

Second Row. — One single erochet into first edge loop, rive ohaiu, one 
single crochet into first chain (ti)nuing a picot), miss one edge loop, one 
single crochet into next (or third) edge loop: repeat. If liked better, a nar- 
row knitted edge may be sewed on. 

The sleeves are made in the same way, and attached to the yoke at the 
shoulder. , 

KNITTED JACKET FOK LNFANT. 

Materials: You may use white Shetland or white single zephyr; two 
No. 9 needles. 

The lace on the bottom of the jacket is knit first. 

Cast on 113 stitches. 

First and Second Rows. — All seanu-d. 

Third, Fifth, Ninth, Eleventh, Fifteenth and Seventeenth Rows. — Knit 2 
plain, * slip 1, narrow, draw the slipped stitch over the narrowed one, 2 
plain, over, 1 plain, over, 2 plain *; repeat from star to star, 1 plain. 

Fourth, Sixth and Seventh Rows. — All seamed. 

Eighth Roto. — All plain. 

Tenth, Twelfth and Thirteenth Rons. — All seamed. 

Fourteenth Row- — All plain. 

Sixteenth, Eighteenth and Nineteenth Rows. — All seamed. 

Twentieth and Twenty-first Rows. — Plain. 

Twenty-second, Twenty-fourth and Twenty-si.vth Rows, — ^All seamed. 

Twenty-third Row. — Slip 1, 1 plain, * thread over, slip 1, 1 plain, draw 
the slipped stitch over the knitted one, 1 plain, narrow, over, 1 plain *; 
repeat from star to star till you get to the last 3 stitches, then over, slip 1 , 
1 plain, draw slipped stitch over, 1 plain. 

Twenty-fifth Roiv. — Slip 1, 1 plain, * over, slip 1, narrow, draw the 
slipped stitch over, over, 3 plain * ; repeat from star to star till last 3, now 
over, slip 1, 1 plain, draw slipped stitch over, 1 jjlain. 

Twenty-seventh Row. — Slip 1. 1 plain, * over, 1 plain, over, slip 1. 1 
plain, draw slipped stitch over, 1 plain, narrow *; repeat from star to star 
to the last 3, then over, slip 1, 1 plain, draw slipped stitch over, 1 plain. 

Twenty-eighth Row. — All seamed. 

Twenty-ninth Row. — Slip 1, 1 plain, * over, 3 plain, over, slip 1, narrow, 
draw slipped stitch over * ; repeat from star to star, to the end of the row, 
over, slip 1, 1 plain, draw slipped stitch over. 1 plain. 

Now repeat twice the rows from the t w enty-SQCond to the thirtieth. 
Then repeat the third time from the twenty-second row, but this time knit 
to the end of the twenty-seventh row. instead of to the end of the twenty- 
ninth row. 

This brings you up to the fifty-second row. 

Fifty-second Row.— A^'\ >n-imu-d. In knitting this row seam 30 .stitches. 



Knitting. 131 

then slip a twine through them, drawing out the needle; these stitches are 
to form one of the fronts. Now seam ."):> for the back, seam the remaining 
;50 and slip these on a twine also. 

Now for the hack. 

Fifijj-third Boir. — Like the twenty-ninth row. 

Next repeat the pattern from the twenty-second row to the twenty- 
seventh until you get to the seventieth row, then make eight row.s from 
the twenty-second to the twenty-ninth rows again, and narrow at the be- 
ginning of each row, to form the shoulders. Now put these stitches on a 
twine until yoii have tinished the two fronts. For each front, do the same as 
yon did with the back only narrowing on the inside of each .shoulder. Then 
put all these stitches again on one needle, back and fronts, and knit as be- 
fore, decreasing once on the shoulders, and take care to keep the pattern. 
Make eight rows, then knit two plain rows for the neck. Now make a row 
of holes, * over, narrow *; repeat. 

jVext Hoic. — Plain. 

Last Bow.— Bind off. 

Crochet an edge up the fronts and around the neck. 

Sleeve: Begin at the bottom. Cast on 2.5 stitches. 

Firat and Second Eoics. — All seamed. 

Tliird Row. — * Two plain, slip 1, narrow, draw the slipped stitch over 
the knitted one, 2 plain, over, 1 plain *; repeat from star to star; 1 plain. 

Foutih, Sivth and Seventh Rows. — All seamed. 

Fifth, Ninth and Eleventh Rows. — Like the third row. 

Eighth Row. — All ^ilain. 

Tenth, Twelfth and Tliirteenth Rows. — All seamed. 

Fourteenth and Fifteenth Rows. — Plain. 

Sixteenth and Eighteenth Botes. — All seamed. 

Seventeenth /Zoic— Slip 1, (over, seam 2 together) twelve times. In this 
row you run a ribbon for the hand. 

'Nineteenth and Twentieth Bows. — All phiin. 

TKvnty-Jirst Bow. — All seamed. 

Now work the jacket pattern live times Irom the twenty-second to the 
twenty -eighth rows, increasing one stitch at eac-h end of the row — before the 
last stitch and after the first stitch. In the fifty-first row bind off o stitches, 
then continue the work. 

Fifty-second Boiv. — Bind oft' 6, continue the work. In the next row bind 
off 2 at the beginning and do this every row until you have worked sixty -one 
rows; bind off the remainder. Sew up the sleeve and sew into the armhole, 
run a ribbon in at the throat, and finish -with a bow^ of ribbon. 
KMTTED JUG PURSE. 

Materials: pink silk and black silk No. 300, and five needles No. 16. 

Cast 12 stitches on one needle for the siK»ut, and 10 on each of the three 



132 Home DECoKATI^ e Work. 

othei- needles : Tourplaiu rounds. Now knit rounds of 2 plain, seam 2 (except 
the spout, which leave plain), narrowing 1 stitch at each side of the 12 in 
the first four rounds, and 1 stitch on every alternate side in the next eight 
rounds. The spout is now finished and you ought to have 31 stitches on 
the needles. Now knit 2 seam, 2 plain, for twelve rounds, except under the 
spout where 1 stitch is to be plain. 

With black begin the bowl; increase 1iy knitting 2 stitches in one; 
seam two rounds; four plain pink rounds; one round with black, increasing 
12 stitches (one in every six), seam two rounds Avith black; four plain pink 
rounds; one round with black. There ought to be 86 stitches now. Seam 
two rounds black, six rounds pink. Seam two rounds black, four rounds 
pink. 

Knit one round black, decreasing 10 stitches at intervals. Seam two 
rounds black, four rounds pink, one round black, narrowing 6. Seam two 
black rounds. You ought now to have 72 stitches. Divide these by six. 
Knit eleven pink rounds, narrowing 6 stitches in each round by knitting 2 
together at the commencement of each division, when a star of six points 
Avill be found, and 6 stitches left on the needles. These are to be drawn up 
and sewed together. Now cast on 6 stitches, knit and seam till you have 
done three inches. This is for the handle; attach one end to the bowl and 
tlic other to the top of the jug. 

LADIES' KNITTED JACKET. 

Materials: lour ounces of Starlight three-thread saxony for the body, and 
one separate skein of a contrasting shade for the edge ; No. 1 steel needles. 

The border below the waist is made first. With the yarn for the edge 
cast on 192 stitches loosely. Knit three rows plain, always slip]>ing the 
first stitch. 

Fourth lioiv. — .Join on the other yarn. over. 4 plain, knit :> stitches 
together, 4 plain, over, 1 plain: repeat to the end. 

Fifth y.'f)H'.— Plain. 

Repeat the fourth and fifth rows five times more. Join on the yarn for 
the edge, and knit four rows plain. Then join on the other yarn, and re- 
])eat the fourth and fifth rows six times, in all thirty-one rows, and again 
join on the yarn for the edge. 

Thirty-second Row. — Two i)lain, narrow, repeat to the end of llie row. 
This leaves you 144 stitches. 

Knit three rows plain. 

Now begin the body, for which join on the yarn. 

First How. — Slip 1, 20 plain, then increase 1 by putting the right needle 
under the horizontal loop between the stitches on the two needles, tlirowiug 
the yarn ai-ound and bringing it up as an e.xtra stitch: or the increase may 
be made by knitting two loops or stitches into one. 



KXITTIXG. 1 8?) 

Alter increa.siuo;. knit 41 jdaiii. im-riase as bctuic. knit .'(i jdaiii, in- 
crease, knit 41. increase, knit :21. 

Second Jiuw. — Plain, .slii)pin<i the liist stitch eveiy time. 

Third RoH\ — Slip 1, "21 jtlain. increase, knit 41, increase, knit ^.i i^lain. 
knit 41, increase, knit 2;2. 

Repeat the last two rows twenty-six more times, but as the work in- 
creases 4 stitches each time, in working the third row always knit 1 m re 
stitch at the beginning and end of the rows, and at the 22 plain (marked in 
italics) knit 2 more each time. 

The beginning and end of the rows form the front of the jacket, the 41 
plain at eadi side the anu pieces, and the increased part iii the center of the 
row is for the back. When these rows are worked there will be ^oG stitches 
on the needle. Knit twenty ]ilain rows. 

Sereniidh lloic. — Slip 1,(59 plain; then for the armhole bind off 20 
stitches; knit 76 stitches for the back, and bind olf 20 stitches Ibr the other 
armhole; knit the remaining 70 stitches plain. 

To work one front, knit thirty-two plain rows on the last 71) .stitches, 
leaving stitches lor the back and the other fixjnt unworked. 

Thirtji-ihiid Jiou-. — Bind off 9 stitches at the beginning of llic low for 
the neck, and knit the rest plain. 

Th iiii/-fo u rth Row. — I'la i n . 

'riiirty-Jiflh lioir. — Slip 1. I plain, narnjw: knit the rest jtlain. 

Kepeat the last two rows nine times more and bind oil". This Itiiidiiig 
off forms tjie .shoulders and should measure about eight inches. 

For the other front take the 70 stitches on the other side, and beginning 
at the side bind otT for the armholes, knit 31 rows ^dain; then Avork as for 
tlie tii-st front from the thirty-third row, and repeat to the binding off. 

For the Inuk, knit twenty rows plain, then narrow for the shoulder, tlius: 

Tircniij-Jirst Jt'oir. — Slip 1, narrow, knit the rest plain. Work three 
more rows like the twenty-fii-st, then knit two rows plain. KejK'at these 
.si.x rows (twenty-fii-st to twenty-sixth) seven times more, and bind ofl". 

Sew the binding olf of the fronts to the slanting sides of the back ; with 
the yarn for the edge cast on 3G0 stitches for trimming, and knit like tlie 
Iwmler to the end of the fifth row. Then repeat the fourtli and (ifth rows 
once more. 

.loin on the other yarn, knit two plain rows; liind olf tightly. Sew tliis 
trimming along the fronts and around the neck. 

To make the .sleeves, use yarn that was used for tlie liody and cast on 
100 stitches; knit forty rows plain. 

Forty-jirfit and Forfy-M'cond liOirs. — Slip 1. I ])lain. narrow: the n-st 
plain. 

Foiiy-lhii-d (iiid Fori y-fou rth Huns. - Plain. 

Kepeat the last four rows fourteen times niorc^ and bind olf. A\'iththe 



134 Home Decorative 'V^^)kk. 

sanif yarn a.s that used lor the edge cast on 84 stitches for a cuti", and, begin- 
ning at the first row of tlie Ijorder, work to the end of the thirty-first row. 
Then work three rows plain and bind off. Sew this to the slee^•e. 

Sew up the sides of the sleeves, and sew to the armholes of the pocket. 

The sleeve may be omitted. In that case, knit small pieces of trim- 
ming like that around the neck, and sew to the armholes. 

DESIGN FOR SHOULDER CAPES. COLLARS, ETC. 

Cast on 19 stitches. 

First, Third and Fifth Jioivs. — Knit :>. thread over and narrow, to the 
end. 

Second and Eren Bows. — Knit across plain. 

Seventh Ron-. — Knit across plain. 

Eighth Row. — Knit 16 stitches, leaving them \evy loose on the needle, 
at least one-fourth of an inch if the yam is fine, longer if it is coarse, then 
knit 3 just as usual. 

Ninth Row. — Knit 3, count 4 stitches, and leave them on the needle, 
knit the next 4, then knit the 4 left at first, leave the next 4, knitting the 
last 4, then knit the 4 left (this is done by leaving the stitches on the needle 
and drawing the others under and knitting them). 

Tenth Eow. — Knit across plain. 

Begin again at the first row. This should be knit with wooden or 
ivory needles, with saxony or Germantown yarn. One can make it as deep 
a.s desired. It is even used for shoulder capes. 
STRIPED SHAWL. 

Have ro'ady wooden needles. No. 6 or 7, and Shetland wool. 

Cast on any number of stitches that Avill divide by 24, and two addi- 
tional stitches at each end for edge stitches to be knitted plain in each row, 
taking oft" the first stitch. These stitches will not be mentioned in the 
l>a1tern. 

First Row. — Two plain, over, knit 2 together, 3 plain, over, knit 2 to- 
gether, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together twice, pass the one ovei' 
the other so as to form one stitch, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 to- 
gether, over, 3 plain, over, knit 2 together; repeat from the beginning. 

Second and jill Even Rows. — Purl. 

TTiird Row. — One plain, knit 2 together, over, 3 plain, knit 2 togeth<-r, 
o\ er, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, oA-er, 1 plain, over, knit 2 to- 
gether, over, knit 2 together, over, 3 plain, knit 2 together, over, 1 ]>lain; 
repeat. 

Fifth Row. — Two plain, o^er. knit 2 together, 1 plain, knit 2 together, 
over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, 3 plain, o\er, knit 2 to- 
gether, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, 2 plain, over, knit 2 to- 
gclhcr: rc]ica1. 



Knitting. 135 

Seventh Row. — Due phiiii, kuit 2 together, over, 1 i^lain, kait 2 together, 
over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, 5 plain, over, knit 2 to- 
getlier, over, kuit 2 together, over, knit 2 together twice, pass one over the 
other as before, over, 1 plain; repeat. 

Ninth Row. — Two plain, over, knit 2 together, 1 phiin, over, kuit 2 to- 
getlier, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, 1 plain, over, knit 2 to- 
gether, 2 plain, over, kuit 2 together, over, knit 2 toge^ther, over, 1 plain, 
over, knit 2 together; repeat. 

Eleventh Bow. — One plain, knit 2 together, over, ?> plain, over, kuit 2 
together, over, kuit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, 2 plain, knit 2 to- 
gether, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, 1 plain, knit 2 to- 
gether, over, 1 plain. 

Tn-clfth Row.—V\xy\. 

Kepeat from the first row. 

A QUICKLY MADE SHAWL. 

Have ready wooden needles, No. 6 or 7, and Shetland wool. Cast on 
any number of stitches that can be divided by six. adding two at each end for 
the edges, to be knitted ijlain on both sjdes. 

Fird Bote. — After the two edge stitches, * over, slip 1, knit 2 together, 
pass slipped stitch over, over, 3 plain; repeat from the .star. 

Second Bow. — Purl, except the edge stitches. 

Third Bote. — After the edge stitches, 3 plain, over, * slip 1, knit 2 to- 
gether, pass slipped stitch over, over; repeat from the star. 

Fourth Bow. — Purl, except the edge .stitches. 

Repeat from the first row. 

A KXITTEl) SHOULDKR CAPE. 

Use small wooden or rubber kuitting needles; also provide two skeius of 
black Gtermantown and two skeins of red, or any two colors you like. 

Cast on 64 stitches with the black. 

First Row.- — Knit plain. 

Second Bow. — Purl. 

Repeat the above two rows three times. 

Ninth Boic. — Join on the red, and purl. 

Tenth Bow. — Knit plain. 

Repeat these two rows three times. 

Seventeenth Bow. — Join on the black and ]>url. 

Eighteenth and Even Bows. — Purl. 

Nineteenth and Odd Bow.'i. — Knit plain. 

Twenty-fifth Bow. — Join on the red, and ]iiirl. 

Twenty-sixth Bow. — Knit plain. 

IJepeat the last two rows ihree times. 'I'lieii repeat from the seventeenth 
IX)'.. until you have thirty-three black ridges and thirtv-lwo red ones. 



136 Home Decorative Work. 

* Bind oil' '.) stitches, drop the fourth; repeat from the star all aeioss. 

Kavel the dropped stitches back to the first row. Run a thread of the 
black up the side of the cape you bound off, and draw it to the length of the 
side you cast on. Gather one of the long sides to fit the size of the neck, 
and crochet across it a row of single crochet. 

Next Bow. — Foiir ch, * skip 2 sc stitches, 1 dc in each of next :> stitdies, 

2 ch; repeat from the star through the row. 

Next Eow.^* One dc imder 2 ch, 4 ch, and catch in the first stitcli of 
the 4 ch with an sc. This makes a picot; repeat from the star three time s, 1 
dc under the same 2 ch, 1 sc under the next 2 ch; repeat through the rov\ . 

Run a ribbon through the holes and tie in a pretty bow at the throat. 

HALF-SQUARE SHOULDER SHAWL. 

Materials: large rubber or wooden needles, and three and a half skeins 
of Germantown w^ool. Cast on 118 stitches. 

First How. — Knit across plain. 

Second Eoiv. — Knit across plain until you come to the last three stitches^ 
then narrow, knit 1. 

Repeat these two rows until you have but one stitcli left on tlie needle; 
then break the wool and draw it through. 

First Row of ' the Border . — Put 1 dc in every other stitch, with 1 ch 
between, around the two sides of the shawl. At the point iii the back, put 

3 dc with 1 ch between. 

Second Bow. — Three dc in the first loop, with 1 ch between, 1 dc, 1 ch 
between, through the row to the point, 2 dc with 1 ch between in the loop, 
1 ch, dc in dc, 1 ch, 2 dc with 1 ch between in the next loop; finish like the 
first of the row. 

Third Boio. — Three ch, 1 dc in the loop, 1 ch, 1 dc in the loop; so con- 
tinue to the point *; put 2 dc with 1 ch between in the loop, 1 ch; repeat 
from the star three times, and finish the row like the first ])art. 

Fourth i?o«;.— Like the third row to the point; then 2 dc with 1 ch be- 
tween in the second loop (where the 2 dc were in one loop), 1 ch, 2 dc in 
between the loops of 1 ch, 2 dc and 1 ch between in the third loop, 1 ch, 1 <lc 
in the next loop; finish like the first part of the row. 

Fifth Bow. — Like the fourth row to the point; then jmt 2 dc wath 1 ch 
between in the middle loop. 

Sicth Bow. — Like the fifth row. 

Tie a fringe in each loop with three pieces of the wool a finger long. 

To finish the neck, make a row of holes of 2 ch and 1 dc, then put a 
scallo)) of 4 (Ic in one loop, and 1 sc in the next. 

ladies' knitted skirt. 

Materials: one pair of bone needles. No 5, fourteen inches long. 

This skirt is ]tretty made of single Berlin wool of any color preferred, 



Knittix(j. 



137 



sixteen onuces of white, eight ounces ol" colored. This slviit is made in two 
breadths, front and ba^k. It is liegun at the bottom and worked toward 
the top. 

Front breadth: Cast on 14G stitches witli Ihe colored wotl. 

Firs.t and Third Bows. — All plain. 

Second and Fifth Bowh. — All seamed. 

Fourth i?o(r. Join on the white, and knit plain. 




Fig hi 

Hixth Bow. — Slip 1. 5 i)lain, seam 1, * 11 plain, seam 1 *; repeal from 
star to star to the end of the row. Any stitches left over knit plain 

Seventh Bow. — Slip 1, seam 5, 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, * seam 9, 1 ])lain, 
seam 1, 1 jilain *; repeat fi-om star to star ten times; seam the remaining 5. 

Eighth Bow. — Slip 1. 3 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, scam 1, 
*7 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, seam 1 *j repeat from star to 
star ten times, 5 plain. 

Ninth Bow. — Slip 1, seam 3, 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, seam 1, 1 i>lain, 
seam 1, 1 i)lain, * seam 5, {1 jdain, .seam 1) three times, 1 plain '', repeat 
from star to star ten times, seam 3. 



138 Home Decorativk A\'<)i:k. 

Tenth Bote. — Slip 1, (1 plain, seam 1) five times, * 3 plaiu, i^seam 1, 1 
plain) three times, seam 1 * ; repeat from star to star ten times, 3 plain. 

Eleventh, Thirteenth and Fifteenth Boivs. — Slip 1, seam 1, 1 plain, to the 
end of the needle. 

Twelfth and Fourteenth Rows. — Slip 1, 1 plain, seam 1, to the end of the 
needle. 

Sixteenth Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, seam 1, * 3 plain, (seam 
] , 1 plain) four times, seam 1 * ; repeat from star to star ten times, 3 plaia, 
(seam 1, 1 plain) three times. 

Seventeenth Row. — Slip 1, (seam 1, 1 plain) t^vice, * seam 5, (1 plain, 
seam 1) three times, 1 plain * ; repeat from star to star ten times, seam. 5, 1 
plain, seam 1, 1 plain. 

Eighteenth Bow. — Slip 1, 1 plain, seam 1, * 7 plain, (seam 1, 1 i)lain) 
twice, seam 1 *; repeat from star to star ten times, 7 plaiu, seam 1, 1 plain, 
seam 1, 1 plain. 

Nineieenth Bow. — Slip 1, seam 1, 1 plain, * seam 9, 1 j)lain, seam 1, 1 
plain *; repeat from star to star ten times, seam 9, 1 plain. 

Twentieth Bow. — Slip 1, * 11 plaiu. seam 1 *; rejieat fiom star to star 
eleven times, seam 2. 

Twenty-first Bow. — Slip 1, all seam. 

Twenty-second Bow. — Put on colored wool; knit plain. 

Twenty-third and Twenty-fifth Boivs. — Plain. 

Twenty-fourth Botv. — Seamed. 

Twenty-sixth Bow. — With white knit plain. 

Twenty-seventh Bow. — Slip 1, 3 plain, seam "2, to the end of the needle. 

Twenty-eighth Bow. — Slip 1, 2 plain, seam 3, to the end of the needle. 

Twenty-ninth Bow. — Slip 1, seam 2, 3 plain, to the end of the needle. 

Thirtieth Bow. — Slip 1, seam 3, 2 plain, to the end of the needle. Re- 
peat the last four rows until you have about eighteen inches in lengtli; now 
work five inches of ribbing as follows: 3 plain, seam 2, on the right side, and 
seam 3, 2 plain on the wrong side. 

Back breadth: Knit like the front till the last ribbing is reached, then 
divide the stitches in halves to form the placket hole. Sew the front and 
l)ack pieces together at the sides. 

Now take any one of the pretty edgings already given and make a trim- 
ming for the bottom. Allow for fullness. 

ANOTHEK KNITTED SKIHT. 

I'ront breadth : 

First Bow. — Cast on 150 stitches; knit across plain. 

Second Row. — Seam 2, * 3 plain, over, 1 i)lain, over, 3 ])lain. seam 3 to- 
igether *; repeat from star to star till the last 2, -which are seamed. 
TJdrd Rou\ — All seamed. 
Fourth Row. — Like the second row. 



K.\ririN(;. 189 

Make these two rows over and over till the border is deep enough. Then 
knit s pliiin, seam 8, tor eight rows, then reverse and seam 8, 8 plain, lor 
eight rows; do this till yon have six rows of blocks; then seam 3, 3 plain, 
till half a finger from the top, which is plain. When you commence the 3 
and 3 ribbing, then narrow at the beginning of every row. 

Back breadth: The same without narrowing, remembering to divide the 
stitches for the placket hole, ribbing each half separately. 

child's knitted skikt. 

Take two bone knitting needles with a ball on one end to ])revent the 
stitches from slipping off. 

Cast on 108 stitches of saxony in any shade desired. AVhitc, bordered 
Axith pink or l)lue, is pretty, but two shades of red are the most serviceable. 

Seam the first row and knit back plain. 

For the next row, take up 2 together, knit 2 plain, thread ovtr. knit 1 
])laui, over, knit 2 plain, slip 1. knit 1 plain, draw over .slipjied stitch. Re- 
peat this pattern all the way across the needle; then .seam back, and repeat 
spven ix)unds. 

Now tie on a ditferent sliade tor the border and knit seven romids. 
Break off the thread, tie on the first shade, and knit five rounds. Knit back 
}»lain; seam once across; knit back plain. 

Knit 2 together, 2 plain, thread over, knit 1 plain, thread over, knit 2 
plain, slip 1, knit 1, draw slipped stitch over; repeat across tlie needle, and 
scam back. Do this three times; then knit back plain and seam across; 
knit back plaiu, and repeat from the first. 

.ti:k8t:v for girl ok bov. 

It may be made of any kind of strong wool, red and black; four No. 13 
needles. 

Ca>st on one needle with l)hick iUi stitches. 

First Jio}r. — Knit plain. 

Second lion: — *Two plain, seam 2 *; repeat from star to star. 

T/iird Jinn-. — Same as the last, only seam 2, 2 plain— reverse of the other. 

iJepeat these two rows three more times. 

Join the red and knit eight rows like the second and third to form a 
second stripe; repeat these two stripes until you have knitted seventeen in all. 

Now knit two rows of the next black stripe, then divide for the collar. 
Now take a third needle. Knit in ribs, as before, the first 28 stitches, turn, 
knit them back, knit two more rows on these stitches, knit a fifth row, and 
at the end of this row cast on 40 stitches: leave this needle and al)ont half a 
yard of wool. Take the 40 stitches oft' on a strong pi<'ce of cord. 

Knit the last 28 stitches in ribs; begin after the fortieth stitch, and 
knit four rows on them. Knit a fifth row, then knit plain the 40, and the 
•If* on the next shoulder, wliich eonii»letes the stripe. Knit seventeen more 



140 



lIcjMK Dkcokatin !•: AVoUK. 



stripes tu coriespouil Avith the lii-st seveuteeu. Wheu yon li;i\e knitted the 
last stripe, bind oil" 1 plain, * put the left needle into this stiteh again and 

knit another in it. Knit the next stitch 
plain, draw the last one over this just knit- 
tod, knit another and draw the last knitted 
over this *; knit the whole row this wify, 
lejieating from star to star.' 

You noA\ finish the collar. 

Take up the -iU stitches left in tlic mid- 
dle of the work; knit them with red. Take 
up 3 stitches on the shoulder; with two more 
needles take up the 40 casst on and 3 on the 
next shoulder. With a third needle knit 
four rounds of red, six rounds of black, six of 
red, and bind off as you did at the bottom. 

The sleeve may be ribbed to the right 
length with three needles, then sewed into 
the jersey. 

LAl>Ii;s' T-NDERVEST. 

This vest is knitted of three-thread sax- 
ony on coarse steel needles. Commencing at 
llie bottom cast on 384 stitches. The first 
thirty rcnuids should l)i'. knit :?. purl 2; for the next 6 rows, purl ;!, knit 1, 
purl 3, knit 1, etc. 

The next six rows should be purl 1, knit 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 3, re- 
versing the former rows and forming a basket pattern which is very pretty. 

These pattern rows should be continued, alternating until the vest is 
twenty inches long; then divide the stitches, leaving half for tlie back on 
the needles until the fronts are finished. Divide the remaining stitches 
equally and knit separately, keeping the basket pattern by knitting and 
purling as before. Ha\aug worked sixteen of the basket patterns, commence 
the gores. Work 20 stitches next the arrahole. pick up a loop between this^ 
and the next stitch and knit it, knit 13 stitches and widen again bj'- 
picking up another loop and knitting it, knit 26 stitches; knit three rows, 
keeping the pattern (knitting 1he gore stitches plain — these should alway.s 
be knit plain); in the fourth row increase by taking up a loop belbre and 
after the loop made before. This increase is continued until the gores are 
long enough. Cast off across the front, leaving 26 stitches for tlie shoulder. 
AVork as far as the top of tlie shoulder, which you must judge of by the size 
of the armhole needed; cast off these 26 stitches. Then proceed in 1li(i same 
way with tlie other side. 

Now taking the back, work it as high as you tliink it ought to In-. Ilien 
cast oft' all but 26 stitches on each siiouldc)-. Knit these to corresiioiid with 




Kmttinc;. 141 

the IVouts; join them by sewing together. Then taking up the stitches in 
the annliole, proceed to knit the sleeves. Form tlie gusset by knitting two 
stitches in one exactly in the middle of the under-arm. Continue to increase 
until the sleeve is large enough, then knit it the length reciuired. 

IC liked, crochet an edge in the neck and sleeves. 
ladies' kxittkd silk vest. 

The vest is made in ribs throughout; it, therefore, fits the form just as 
ajei-sey would, and it is this that makes it warm without being cumber- 
.some. The directions are for a large-sized vest, that is, one ranging from 
thirty-eight to forty inches bust measure. Vests or underwear of silk are 
exceedingly warm, and do not irritate the skin. 

For this vest, thirtei-n spools of pure tliread silk are required, two and 
one-half yards of pink satin ribbon about one inch in width, also the same 
number of yards of very narrow pink satin ribbon to run in the neck. Pro- 
cure also two steel needles. No. 17, twelve inches in length, one fine steel 
crochet hook, and one small skein of filo-floss for sewing the seams. The 
knitting silk is of too hard a twist to ssw with, and, if used, will make an 
uncomfortable seam to come next the person. 

Tliis vest is made in two pieces, front and back, which are knit per- 
fectly straight up and down u]ion tA\o needles, until the neck is reached, 
where shaping begins according to directions. "WTien the front and back are 
completed they are joined under each arm. The narrow strips Mhich pass 
over the shoulder and form the sleeve are joined by crochet. The hip or 
bottom part of the vest is widened by gussets, which are knit separately, 
one being placed in each side seam. The neck, sleeves and bottom of the 
vest are finished with crochetted edges. 

Directions. — Cast on with two needles loosely 200 stitches. This is Ibr 
the lower edge of the vest. In the second row across, arrange the work in 
ri))s of threes and twos. Every sixth row is purled all the way across and 
produces the little ridges on the fabric, as shown in the illustration. Con- 
tinue thus until you have a straight piece, in length about twenty-tour 
inches. Now arrange the work so that, in beginning the next row, the wrong 
side of the fabric Avill lie next to you. Knit olf in the usual way for 50 
stitches, using an extra knitting needle. Leave the remaining 150 stitches 
on another needle. They will be apt to slip off, and until rgady to work 
them off the needle, secure them by placing a small cork on each end of the 
needle. For the present, this needle of 150 stitches is left, and you knit 
upon the 50 stitches already mentioned, continuing the pattern of the fabric 
just the same; by so doing you are forming the shape of the neck and the 
short slee\e of the vest. Each time the edge is reached on the side of the 
neck, narrow once; repeat until you have the stitches reduced to 20. Upon 
these, still knit the pattern for a length of six inches, then cast off. This 
makes a long strip which is to form the sleeve or shoulder-band. This vest 



14-2 



IIo:me DEf'OKATiM-: Wokk. 



is shaped at the top as nearly like a French yoke as it is possiljle to knit one. 
Next cast offlooselj^ 100 stitches from the needle containing the 150 stitches. 
Upon these remaining 50 stitches, knit a strip to correspond to the strip al- 
ready described. Keraember to narrow only on the side next the ne<k. This 




Fig. 113. 
completes the knitting of one-half of the vest. For the other half of the vest 
knit exactly as for the half already described. 

Now with a line crochet hook fill in' the space between the two long 
strips, or raise the top of the front and back with open work. To make the 
open work with which this space is filled, begin at the right-hand corner, 
and sccnre the silk firmly. IJaisc oiw trcl)le, make a chain of 5. then raise 



Knitting. 145 

one treble; repeat mnoss. In making the trebles, arrange so as to bring one 
treble each side ol"e\ery rib of three stitches. Break the silk at the end of 
every row. Upon the row already made, work another row the same as the 
first, except tliat each treble is worked midway of eacli chain of 5 of the 
preceding row. So alternate for nine rows; but in beginning and ending 
each row, increase a chain of 5 and 1 treble to make it fit the form. This 
will be readily seen in working. If you do not increase, the space will not 
be entirely filled. Now join the strip over the shoulder in this way: Make 
a long chain from the front strip to the back strip and secure. Then upon 
this work a chain of 5 and 1 treble clear across. Now to this add another 
row the same as the first, only bring each treble midway of a chain of 5 of 
the previous row. So alternate for five rows; and you will have a piece 
like that in the front and back described, and will also have formed the 
sleeve or band. The other strips are joined just the same. Now Avork 
around the edge of the neck one row of trebles, setting them close together. 
To this row add another, which work as follows: 

Make one treble into each of two stitches or trebles of the preceding row; 
5 chain; pass over 5 trebles; repeat. To this row. add another by working 
thus: 1 treble into each of the 2 trebles of last row; 1 chain; 4 trebles, each 
separated by 1 chain into the third of 5 chain; 1 chain; repeat. Now add 
another row : 1 treble into each of the 2 trebles of the last row ; 1 chain ; 4 
trebles (each separated by 1 chain) into the center; 1 chain between the 
trebles of the last row ; 1 chain ; repeat. Eepeat this last row once more. Now 
to this add a row of scalloijs, making about 15 trebles into 1 stitch for each 
scallop. Fasten down by 1 single crochet to the treble of the previous row. So 
work all around the neck. Add a similar row of scallops to the outer edge 
of tl\,e strip-band or sleeve. This completes the working of the band or 
sleeves. Run narrow ribbons in through the holes and tie in pretty l>ows 
in front. 

Next sew up the seams under the arms, leaAdng a space of about five 
inches at the bottom for the insertion of a gusset. 

Gussets. — Cast on loosely 50 stitches on two needles; knit in ribs of 
threes and twos, as you have for the other part of the vest. M|,ke this pat- 
tern for about one inch. Then narrow once at the beginning of every row, 
that is, each time you turn the work. This narrows the work oft' to a point, 
or one stitch. When the gusset is finished, make one more for the other 
side, and sew into the seam at the bottom or hip part of the vest. This 
gives ample room for a person of large size; for one of smaller proportions 
these gussets are unnecessary. Now add to the bottom of the vest a trim- 
ming of openwork and scallops as made above. This completes the work. 
ladies' knitted undervest. 

Materials- two ounces white split zephyr, five small bone knitting 
needles. 



l-t-t 



Home Decorative Wokk. 



Cast on 75 stitches on each of four needles; knit four plain rows. 

Fifth Roiv. — * Thread over, slip 1, 1 plain, pass slipped stitch over *; 
repeat from star to star. 

^ixth to Eleventh lioivs. — All plain. 

Now make two hundred and twenty rows of 2 plain, seam 2, as in ordi- 
niwx ribbing. This reaches to the armhole. Now divide the stitches in 
equal numliers on two needles, and continue the ribbed knitting in rows 
backward and forward on each separate part, for one hundred and ten 
rows; then bind off all but 16 stitches at the end of each part, and knit these 




Fig. 114. 
rows backward and forward in jjlain knitting, for one hundred and ten 
i-ows, then join it to the opposite side of the vest. 

This forms the shoulder-strap. 

For the sleeve, cast on 22 stitches, and work backward and forward in 
])lain knitting until you have the length required for the annhole. ]\Iake a 
gus-iet and sew in the sleeve. 

Trim the neck and sleeves with some pretty edge. 
KNITTED UNDER-DKAWEKS. 

Materials required: zephyr Germantown, a pair of No. 4 needles of 
bone, wood or rubber, also a jiair of No. 8 needles. 

With the No. 8 needles cast on 200 stitches for the ])ody and one extra. 
This one extra stitch is to be marked })y a colored thread in the middle of 
the work to form a center to the body. 



Knitting. 145 

First Boir. ^Knii ])l:iiii 100 stitches, purl I (the center stitcli i. knit 
plain 100. 

Second Row. — Knit 2, purl 2; repeat to the end of the row. 

Third Row. — Knit 2, purl 2; repeat to the end of the row. 

Repeat the last row three times more. 

Seventh Bow. — Increase a stitch (by putting the wool over the needle) 
on each side of the center stitch. All the rest of the row is— knit 2, purl 2. 

Next Four Rows. — Like the second row. 

Twelfth Bow. — Ijike the seventh row. 

Ne.vt Four Bows. — Like the second row. 

Seventeenth Row. — Like the seventh row. 

Go on in this manner, increasing a stitch on each side of the center 
stitch in every fifth row, until you have worked sixty-eight rows. Tlien 
divide the stitches in two parts for the legs. Knit on the first half of the 
stitches sixteen plain rows, still keeping the rib of 2 plain and 2 purl. 

Now, at the seventeenth row, with four needles, join the work and knit 
eleven rounds, 2 plain, 2 purl. 

Ticelfth Bound. — Narrow on each side of the seam stitcli, which now is 
the stitch where the work is joined.* 

Next Three Bounds. — Knit 2 plain, 2 purl, as above. 

Sixteenth Bound.— l^^ai'Tow on each side of the seam stitch again, lie- 
peat from star, knitting four ribbed rounds as above between each round of 
decreasing. 

Work in this manner until you have only 54 stitches left on the needles. 

Now knit twenty rows off, knit 1, purl 1, and cast off loosely. 

Now take up the stitches on the other leg, and repeat the above direc- 
tions exactly. When both legs are finished, take up the center stitch of the 
body, and knit a gusset in this manner: 

Knit 1, turn, take up the stitch on the last row of the leg, knit it, turn, 
slip the first stitch, knit the next, knit the first stitch on the other leg, turn, 
slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1 on the next leg, turn, slip 1, knit 4; take up 1 on 
the next leg, turn, slip 1, knit all the rest, and take up 1 at the end of each 
row until the stitches are all knitted up to the join of the legs. Then con- 
tinue to knit, decreasing 1 at the end of each row, as you take uj) the stitches 
on the other side of the leg, and up the front of the body, until you have 
only 1 stitch left; knit this, take up the stitches on the sides of the two 
fronts, and knit three rows. Sew- over strongly in the front. Then take a 
crochet needle and crochet a Ijnnd of ten rows for the waist. 

chii.d's knitted shiet. 
This will fit a child three or four years of age. 
Materials: four needles No. 11, one ounce of Shetland wool. 
Cast on each of three needles, 11 stitches for each of sixteen scallops, or 
10 



U6 



Home DECORAxn k A\'()rk. 



176 stitches. Cast 128 stitches on one iieedh-, (i4 on each ol' tlu- otJur two 
needles; knit fonr rounds in seam knitting. 

Fifth Bound. — One plain, * thread over, :> plain, narrow, narrow, 8 ])lain, 
over, 1 plain * ; repeat from star to star to the end of the row. 

For the sixth and eighth following rounds repeat the fifth round, then 
seam three rounds; repeat from the fifth round twice more, then repeat the 
fifth round eight times, two plain rounds. After that knit forty rounds of 
4 plain, 2 seam. In the forty-first round of ribbing you divide for the two 
fronts. Knit on the needle with 128 stitches fifteen more rows ol' ribbino-. 




Wu 

wm 

Fig. 115. 
then sixteen rows plain. On the first fourteen stitches knit twenty rows 
plain, bind off, then cast ofl" the middle stitches; leave 14 at the end, and 
knit twenty rows plain on them, then leave them. On the other half of the 
stitches knit fifteen more rows of ribbing, then sixteen rows plain ; bind oft' 
round on the first and last 14 stitches; as j'ou do so, knit in the last of the 
little rows with them. 

For the sleeve : Cjtst on 6(j stitches; repeat the ti r.st lourteen rows of the 
pattern. Then knit and seam alternate rows for sixteen rows; bind off, set 
the sleeve into the armhole. Around the neck crochet a pretty edge. 
haby's LONG-SLEKVKI) shikt. 

l'ro\ ide two skeins ea<h of white, pah> blue and canary colored imported 



Knitting. 147 

saxony, Ibr three shirts. I'ink is licantit'ul. but it liulcs Icidly. I'sc fiiu' 
hone needles. 

To begin tiie baek, east on 7S stitches. 

First Row. -Knit aeross i)hiin. 

Second Eoiv. — All seamed. 

T/iird Eoiv. — Knit plain. 

Fourth Mow. — One plain, * narrow, 3 plain, ovei', 1 plain, over, .'5 
plain, narrow ■•'■; repeat tVoiu star to star till the last stitch, which is knit 
plain. 

Fifth, Seventh, Tenth, Thirteenth and Fifteenth A'oun. — All seamed. 

Si.vth, Eightli, Tirelflh and Fourteenth liows. — TJke the fourth row. 

Xinth and Eleventh L'ous. — All i)laiu. 

So continue, till there are four finished pattern rows, that is, lour times 
three rows of ejelets with ribbing between, and rib))ed rows. In going 
aeross the last row of the Ijorder (which you may knit any other way j'ou 
choose, if this way is too much work), narrow 3 stitches on each end of the 
needle, leaving 72. Now knit forty-six times across of 2 plain, seam 2. 
(Knit about sixty times across, if the child is long-waisted.) Now to shape 
the shoulder, narrow 1 at each end of the needle everj' time across, until 
you have 44 stitches. Bind oft". 

To begin the front, — after you have made a border to match tlie back, 
knit 2, seam 2, thirty-si.\: times across. Take oft" one-half the stitches on 
another needle, then knit ten times across, .still ribbing. Then narrow on 
the outside of the needle every time across till you have 28 stitches. At the 
inner end of the needle (or middle of the front), bind oft' 3 stitches every 
other time across (to hollow the neck), continuing to narrow for the shoulder 
as before till all are bound oft", leave the yam long enough to sew up the 
shoulder. Knit up the other half of the front the same way. Sew up the 
.shoulders and sides on the wrong side, leaving a space tor the sleeves. 

For the slee\e, cast on 40 stitches. At first, use medium sized steel 
needles; knit 2 plain, seam 2, till jou have done thirty rows. In the thir- 
tieth row, widen 12 stitdies, picking them up at equal distances. Now put 
in bone needles; knit 2 plain, seam 2, for forty rows. For gussets, Aviden 
one at each end of the needle every other time across till you have 64. Bind 
off, sew up and insert in the body. Finish the neck in any pretty way you 
like and run baby ribbon in to tie it. 

child's KXITTEI) .shikt. 

The pattern is for a child tliree years old. 

Cast on 56 stitches. 

Scam 2, 2 plain, for twenty rows. 

KTiit thirty-five rows plain. 

One row of* over, narrow *; repeated all around from .star to star. 

Knit five rows of seam 2, 2 plain, all around. 



148 Home DEroEAxnE Work. 

The above makes half the shirt. ]Makc another half the saiiie way. 
Hew up as far as the armhole. 

Cast on 46 stitches for the sleeve and knit twelve rows of seam 2, 2 
plain; then a row of holes, and four plain rows. Sew them in and run baby 

ribbon thronch the holes. 

■ t 

ixfaxt's siriKT. 

Cast on 81 stitches, Avith white wool. 

First lioir. — All plain. 

Second Bow. — Slip 1, over, 3 plain, slip 1, narrow, pull slipped stitch 
over the narrowed one, * 3 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 3 jilain, slip 1, narrow, 
pull slipped stitch over *; repeat from star to star to the end of the row. 

Third Bow. — All seamed. 

Repeat the second and third rows till you have thirteen rows of .shell 
work. 

Now seam 1, 3 plain, seam 2; make forty-nine rows like this. 

Fiftielh and Fifty-second Bows. — All seamed. 

Fifty-first and Fifty-third Bows. — All plain. 

Fifty-fourth Bow. — Over, narrow, all across; this forms holes. 

Fifty-fifth Bow.— AW plain. 

Fifty-sixth Bow. — All seamed; bind off. 

For the sleeve, cast on 51 stitches, knit lour rows of shells like the bot- 
tom of the shiit, bind otf 14 stitches at each end of the needle, and sew the 
rest into the body. 

Run ribbon in the holes. 

t'HEST PROTECTOR. 

Provide four skeins of white yarn and two ivory needles. 

Beginning at the lower edge of the back with 42 stitches, knit back and 
forth plain, increasing in the eighth and every following fourth row to the 
fifty-second inclusive. (You increase on each side of the twelve middle 
stitches by knitting two stitches into one — knit and purl.) When one hun- 
dred and two rows are finished, work the two shoulder-pieces on the 27 
stitches nearest each end, binding off the stitches between for the neck. 
Work sixty-six rows for each shoulder-piece, but during the first eight rows 
decrease at the neck by narrowing every other row in order to shape it 
nicely. Bind off the stitches on the left side, but on the right cast on 35 
stitches for the front. 

Work the front the same in size and shape as the back, which will of 
course need decreasing instead of increasing. Crochet a narrow scallop all 
around, beginning at the leit shoulder. Sew fiat buttons at the bottom of 
the front and clastic braids eight inches long at the l)ack, with a buttonhole 
worked in, to fasten on the front. Fasten the left shoulder with small fiat 
buttons. • 



Knittino. 149 

kxp:e CAi's. 

Many ikU^rly people who sutter from cokl kuees will appreciate the 
oomlbrt dt'iivcil Irom a ])air of knee ruys. IVocure single zephyr and No. 1'2 
needles. 

Cast ou 42 stitches and kuit six row s plain. 

Sevcnfh Row. — Knit 21, pick xip a stitch, knit 21. 

Eighth and Tenth Bowh. — Plain. 

Kinth 7'f»ir. — Knit 21, jnck np a .stitch, kuit 2, pick up a stitch, kuit 20. 

Continue increa.siug in oven- second row (alternating with the plain ) 
until there are 42 stitches on each side, making H4. always knitting 20 
stitches at each side of the increasing at the center. 

Now knit six lows plain; then decrease in every second row in the same 
manner as you increased until you have 42 stitches left, as at the heginning; 
then six n)ws plain; cast off loosely and sew up. 

These caps are shaped to the knees and need no fastening in the way of 
an elastic, if Ihey are carefully made of the right size. 
lady's silk mitten. 

Materials re(Hiired: one ounce of coarse knitting silk, and live knitting 
needles No. 19. 

Cast on 82 stitches. Have 28 stitehes (m one needle and 27 on each of 
the other two. 

First Hound. — Plain all around. 

Second Bound. — One plain, over, 1 plain, ov»'r, 1 plain, over, 1 plain, 
over, 1 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 1 plain, scam 2; repeat till 10 stitches re- 
main on the third needle, then 8 plain, seam 2. 

Third Bound. — Slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 9 plain, narrow, 
seam 2: repeat until 10 stitches remain on the third needle, then 8 ])lain, 
seam 2. 

Fourth Bound. >^\il) 1, 1 plain, imll slipped stitch over, 7 i)laiii, nar- 
row, seam 2; repeat until 10 stitches remain on the third needle, then s 
l>lain, seam 2. 

Fifth Bound. — Slip 1, 1 plain. jjuU slipped stitch OAcr, 5 plain, naiiow. 
seam 2: repeat nntil 10 stitches remain on the third needle, then s ]>l;iin. 
.seam 2. 

As four rounds are re(|uired to complete each slii-ll jjattern, the sixth, 
seventh, eighth and ninth rounds are a repetition of the foregoing second, 
third, Iburth and iil^th rounds in the onh-r named. This shell is repeated in 
the mitten shown in the ligure seventeen times, hut if a larger wrist is de- 
sired nune shells can he added at pleasure. The twist ])attern slii>w ti in the 
center of the hack is continued as follows: 

Tcnihand Eleventh Bounds. — Same as the second and third rounds. 

In the twelfth round the last 10 .stitches are dis|M)sed of in the Inllowiiig 
niann'r. Slip off the lii-st 4 stitches on an extra needle, knit the next 4 



150 



Home Dkcokatiae AVouk. 



plain, then put back the 4 stitches on the left-hand needle and with the 
right knit them plain, and seam the 2 stitches remaining. This operation 
must be repeated in every tAvelfth round to narroAviny. One shell stripe 
each side ol" the twist is continued to narrowing;. 











'A 






*t» 



\3;. 
Fig. 116. 

In commcnciiiii Ihe tlnnnb, the stitches for this purpose must be so 
chosen as to britiii the fancy work on tin; back of the mitten as near as ]>os- 
sible 1o the center of 11i<^ same. In the ri<iht-band mitten 1h<' thumb is on 
the left-hand side of the I'ancy work, and in the lel'l-liaiid mitten the revensc. 
"VS'licn you have 27 stildus in tlic tlnindi. knit three rounds ]>Iain (except in 



KxiTTI\{i. 151 

the fancy back), aucl ut the cud of the third phiiii round cast on 4 extra 
stitches. Now slii> the 27 thumb stitches on a piece of twine, tie securely, 
and with tlie remaining stitches continue the hand, narrowing in each round 
once at the point where extra stitches were made until 74 stitches remain. 
Continue knitting plain (except the fancy stri])e on the back) until the 
mitten is the length of the middle finger. 

Now commence to narrow; 7 plain, narrow, all round: seven plain 
i-ows; 6 plain, narrow, all round; six plain rows; '-> plain, narrow, all round; 
five ])lain rows: 4 plain, narrow, all round; four jilain rows. 

Now narrow once on each needle in every round until only 4 stitches 
are left on a needle, tlu'U narro^v twice on each needle and bind ofl'. "When 
decre;ising, once on each middle uiedle only; do- not narrow at the same 
point in every round, but at a diflterent place in each successive round. 

To finish the thumb, place the 27 stitches on three needles and pick up 4 
stitches from the base of the gore formed between the hand and thumb by 
casting on the 4 extra stitches, knit once around plain, and narrow once in 
each of the next four rounds at the point where the gore is,, then knit fifty 
rounds plain and finish 1)}' narrowing once on each needle in every round, 
until all the stitches are disposal of. 

lady's kan( y :\htti;x. 

Materials: one skein of Ibur-thrcadcd saxony nv Andalusiau yarn, or 
three sjjools of knitting silk; needles No. 20. 

First Bound. — Cast 36 stitches on each needle. l(»>i in all. and knit once 
around plain. 

Second Bound. — Over, narrow; reiieat all aruiind. 

Third Bound. F\iun. 

Fourth Bound. — Seam :{. 1 plain, (over, 1 plain) eight times: repeat all 
around. (Seam o, must begin each needle after this, in making the cuft.) 

Fifth Bound. — Seam 3. 17 plain; repeat all around. 

Sixth Bound. — Seam 3. 1 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 
12 ]»lain, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over; repeat all around. 

Serenlh Bound. — Seam 3. 1 ])lain, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch 
over. 10 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over; repeat all around. 

Eighth Bound, ^eam 3, 1 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch 
over, 8 plain, slip 1, 1 i>lain, pull slipped stitch over; repeat all around. 

Ninth Bound. Seam 3, 1 ])lain, slij) 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 
»! plain, slip 1, 1 plain. ])ull slipped .stitch over; repeat all around. 

Tenth., Eleventh, Tu-etfth, Thirteenth, Fourteenth and Fifteenth Bounds. — 
Jjike the fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth and ninth rounds. 

Sixteenth Bound.— fieara 3, 1 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch 
over, 4 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, ])ull slipped stitch over; repeat all around. 

Sctunt<t nth Bound. — Seam 3. 1 ])lain. (over, 1 ])lainl six times: repeat 
all around. 



152 Home Decorative Work. 

Eighteenth Bound.— ^Seani 3, 13 plain; repeat all around. 
Nineteenth, Twentieth and Twenty-first Bounds. — Like the eighth, ninth 
and sixteenth rounds. 

Twenty-second Bound. — Seam 3.1 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped 
stitch over, 2 plain, slip 1. 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over; repeat all 
around. 

Tioenly-thitd Bound. — Seam 3, 1 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, ])ull slipi)ed 
stitch over, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over; repeat all around. 

Twenty-fourth Bound. — Seam 3, 3 plain, repeat; continue this for six 
rounds. 

TIdrtieih Bound. — This makes the holes to run the coi-d through. Seam 
3 over three times, narrow, 1 plain, seam 2, over three times, seam 2 to- 
gether; repeat all around. (Knit or seam as before.) 

Thirty-first Bound. — Seam 3, 3 plain; repeat, and continue thus for six 
r<mnds. (The thread thrown over is knit as one stitch.) 

Thirty-seventh Bound. — Now begin the Avidening for the thumb, and the 
shells for the back of the mitten. Seam 3, 1 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 1 
plain, * seam 3, (over, 1 plain) six times; repeat from star twice, seam 3. 
This ends the second needle. The third needle, containing 18 stitches, is 
knit plain the rest of the time, and forms the palm of the mitten. 

Thirty-cighih Bound. — Seam 3, 1 plain, seam 1 (which is the one wid- 
ened for the thumb), 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, * seam 3, 12 plain; repeat 
Irom star twice, seam 3. Knit the other needle plain. 

Thirty-ninth Bound. — Seam 3, 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, ^eam 1, 1 plain, 
*seam 3, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 8 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, 
puU slipped stitch over; repeat from star twice, seam 3. Knit the other 
needle plain. 

Fortieth Bound. — Seam 3, 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, * 
seam 3, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 6 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, pull 
slipped stitch over; repeat from star twice, seam 3. Knit the other needle 
plain. 

Forty-fir.'it Bound. Hexim 3, 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, .seam 1. 1 plain. 

* seam 3, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 4 plain, slip 1. 1 plain, 
pull slipped stitch over; repeat from star twice, seam 3. Knit the other 
needle plain. 

Forty-seeond Bound. —Seam 3, 1 plain, over, 3 plain, over. 1 plain, "■" 
seam 3, over, and 1 plain, six times; repeat from star twice, seam 3. 

Forty-third Bound. — Seam 3, 1 plain, seam 1, 3 plain, .seam 1. 1 i)l:ii)i. 

* seam 3, 12 plain; repeat from star twice, seam 3. 

Forty-fourth Bound.— Seam 3, 1 plain, seam 1, 3 plain, seam 1, 1 ]»laiii, 
='•= st^m 3, sli]) 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 8 plain, slip 1. 1 plain, 
pull slij>ped stitch over; r«>])eat from star twice, seam 3. 

Forly-IH'th Hound, Seam :'.. 1 ])l:Mn, seam 1. 3 jilaiii, scam 1. 1 plain, * 



Knittinc;. 153 

seam 3, slip 1. 1 plain, ])ull slipped stitch over, (i plain. sli]» 1. 1 i)litiii. jkiII 
slipped stitch over; repeat from star twice, seam 3. 

Forty-sixlh Round. — Seam 3, 1 plain, seam 1, 3 plain, seam 1, 1 plain. * 
seam 3, slip 1, 1 plain, pull slipped stitch over, 4 plain, slip 1, 1 jilain, ])nll 
slipped stitch over; repeat from star twice, seam 3. 

Forty-seventh Round. — Seam 3, 1 plain, over, 5 plain, over, 1 iilain. * 
seam 3, over, 1 plain, six times; repeat from star twice, seam 3. 

This makes two rows of shells on the back, and it will he easy to go <.>n. 
The widened stitch for the thnnil) is always seamed, and you widen only on 
the rows where you widen for the shells. Knit till you have finished four- 
teen rows of shells on the hack and are ready to begin another. Then take 
off the thumb stitches, the 27 stitches you have made and the seamed and 
knit stitches each side. 31 in all. This will be the rule for that row: 3 plain, 
(those 3 seamed stitches before the thumb are knit the rest of the time), take 
otF the 31 thumb stitches, make 12 stitches by knitting them on (holding the 
wrong side of the work toward you), * seam 3, over, 1 plain, six times; re- 
peat from star twice, seam 3. Knit the other needle plain. 

Make fourteen rows of shells after taking off the thumb: then begin to 
narrow, knitting plain the rest of the lime: 7 stitches plain, narrow: repeat 
all around. 

Knit seven rows plain. 

Knit 6 stitches plain, narrow; repeat all around. 

Knit six rows plain. 

Knit 5 stitches plain, narrow: repeat all aiound. 

Knit five rows jdain. 

Continue tlius till all are seamed off. 

The thumb is knit plain. Take up the 31 stitches, 15 on one needle 
and 16 on the other. With the third needle take up stitches across the wid- 
ened part of the hand, one for each loop, and one each side, 14 in all. Knit 
around plain once, then begin to narrow on the third needle, slipping and 
binding eacli side of the needle once; then a plain row, then narrow as be- 
fore, plain row, etc. After knitting a few rows, slip off some stitches from 
the other needles to the third, and continue narrowing till there are only 32 
stitches left, 11 on two needles. 10 on one. That makes the gore for the 
thumb. Now knit plain till tlie thumb is long enough to come a little above 
the bottom of the thumb nail when trying it on. Tlien narrow once in tlic 
middle of each needle, knit around plain once, then narrow all otf. bv nar- 
rowing once in the middle of each needh- till none remain. 

This will make the left-hand mitten. In starting the hand part of tbe 
other, make the first needle the plain one tliat forms the palm, and follow 
around backward. 

AXOTHEK I'KKTTY MITTEX. 

Materials: one ounce of knitting silk, and four No. Is or 1S» knitting 
needles. 



154 Home Decorative Wokk. 

Cast 132 stitches on these needles, phicinji 48 on each oCtwo needles and 
'.id on the third. 

Fird Bound. — Knit plain. 

Second Bound. — One plain, * over, 1 plain, over, 1 plain *; repeat from 
star eight times, seam 3 stitches. Commence the next shell by 1 plain, * 
over, 1 plain, * repeating from star to star eight times, seam 3. Continue 
making shells and seaming 3. till once around, Avhen there will be eleven 
shells started. 

Third, Fourth, Fifth and SixtJi Bound.s. — Slip 1. 1 plain, pull slipped 
stitch over, and narrow the last 2 stitches of each shell, knitting stitches be- 
tween plain, always seaming the 3 stitches separating the shells. There are 
now 9 stitches in every shell. 

Seventh Bound. — Like the second. 

Eighth, Xinth, Tenth and Elcrcnth JioKnds.-liAkc i\u- Ihird, fourth, Jifth 
and sixth. 

Repeat thei^e five rounds till you have three row.s of shells with eight 
lioles in each ; by narrowing the next round you have six holes in a shell, 
l^epeat the five rounds; the next time by narrowing you have four holes in 
a shell. In like manner narrow the shells to 3 stitches in each, which leaves 
you 3 seams alternating with 3 plain to start on the wrist, which knit in 
ri))s from one to two inches long, as you please. 

Seam 3. 1 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 1 plain, seam 3. This sets the 
thuml). 

Now 1 plain, then (over, 1 plain) seven times, seam 3, 1 plain, then 
(over, 1 plain) seven timeS; seam 3, 1 plain, then (over, 1 plain) seven times, 
.seam 3. This starts three shells for the back of the hand; knit plain the 
rest of the round till you reach the thumb; here 1 ]ilain. seam 1, 1 plain, 
.seam 1, 1 plain, seam 3. 

Now you are at the shells again. Narrow the first and last stitches of 
each shell, knit the rest plain (remember 3 seams between the shells) till 
you reach the thumb again; 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, seam 1, 1 plain, seam 
3. This time the shells are knit plain. Knit the thumb the same again ; 
narrow the first and la.st stitches of shells this time around; knit plain till 
you get to the thumb again; knit the thumb the same as before; shells 
plain this time. Now you have 7 stitches in each shell. You widen tlie 
tlui nib each time you make holes in the shells. Commence at the thuml>. 
.seam 3, over, 1 plain, over, 3 plain, over, 1 plain, seam 3. 

Shells: 1 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 1 plain, over, 1 plain, 
se«m 3; rejieat for shells; then knit plain to the thumb. Now seam 3, 1 
plain, seam 1. 3 plain, seam 1, 1 ])lain. seanv '.). Then narrow the first and 
last stitches of each sh<dl. 

Nc-^i Hound. Thumb the same, shells to )>»■ knit ])lain. 

j^e.rl Honnd. — Thumb the .same, shells narrow. 



Kmttino. 1;"»5 

X(.r( Hound. 'riuiiiil> llic same, shells i)lain. So continue till you liave 
7 stitches in e;xch shell. 

Repeat these rounds till you have 25 stitches lor the thumb between the 
t wo seamed lines of 8 stitches eac:h ; carry the back of the hand along with 
1 he shells as you have been doing. Take the thumb off" on a thread. Cast 
on 14 extra stitches across the thumb for a gusset, and carry your 3 seam 
stitches along on both sides of the gusset until it is finished; then droj) the 
scam on the inside of the hand, but carry it each side of the shells as far 
down the hand as you continue the pattern. The gusset is to be narrowed 
by knitting together the first 2 and the last 2 of the 14 stitches every other 
round. Continue knitting all idain with the exception of the fancy stripes 
in the back, until the hand is long enough, then decrease as follows: Begin- 
ning at the comer of the needle, knit 7 plain, narrow, all around. 

Knit seven i-ounds plain. 

Knit 6 i)lain, narrow, all around. 

Knit six rounds plain. 

Knit f) plain, narrow, all around. 

Knit five rounds jilain. 

Knit 4 plain, narrow, all around. 

Knit four rounds plain. 

So continue to the end. AVhen you take xip the thumb take up also the 
14 .stitches and narrow them off as before to form the other half of the gusset. 
Knit about fifty-four plain rounds, then finish by narrowing once on each 
needle in every round till all the stitches are dLs^wsed of. 
gentleman's bilk mitten. 

Materials: four No. 18 needles; one and one-half ounces of knitting silk. 

Cast on 78 stitches. 

Knit 2 plain and seam 2 around the needles till there is about an inch 
and rt lialf of webbing or .seaming. Then knit plain once around, knit to 
the middle of a needle, seam 1, over, 1 plain, over, seam 1. Knit plain (al- 
ways seaming the seam stitch), and every sixth or seventh row make a stitch 
in.side the seam stitch as directed, until there are as many stitches between 
the seams as there are cm the other needle, that is, 26. Slip these stitches 
otY on a thread; tie the ends. 

Cast on 8 stitches between the seams and knit around plain till the 
mitten reaches the nail of the second finger, then narrow at the beginning 
of each needle. Knit four rows without naiTOwing. Narrow, and knit 
three rows plain; nanow, and knit two rows plain; naiTow, and knit one 
row; then narrow every time till all the stitches but 2 are knit. Draw 
the silk through these stitches and Jasten securely. A fine darning 
needle is the best thing to do it Avitli. 

For the thund), take the stitches off" the thread and take up the 8 made 
between the .seams. Knit once around ]ilain; then narrow the made stitches 



15*) Home Decokativk AVokk. 

every time around till they are all taken up; tlien knit round and round till 
the thumb is long enough. NarroAV it off l)y narrowing at the heginning of 
eaeli needle till finished. 

gentleman's knitted glove. 

These gloves Avill fit either hand. This is desirable for longer v.'ear; 
but, if preferred, the usual finger outlines on the back of the hand can be 
marked with .silk, in chain or feather stitch, and they are then worn like 
other gloves. 

Take two ounces of three-ply saxony and four No. 16 knitting needles. 
Cast on 72 stitches (24 on each needle), and knit once around plain. Knit 
ibrty rounds ribbed (knit 2, purl 2). Now 6 rounds plain; then begin to 
increase or widen for the thumb, thus: at the beginning of the first needle, 
over, knit 3, over; knit the rest plain. In the same place at the next round: 
over, knit 5, over; knit the rest plain. Continue to widen for the thumb 
in this way until there are 33 stitches between the increased stitches, thus 
Ibrming the outside thumb gore. Now six rounds plain. Slip the 35 
thumb stitches on a thread, and cast on 9 stitches in the place of those 
.slipped off. Complete this and the next round plain. 

In the third round from the thumb, narrow twice the first two of the 
nine stitches cast on and the last two. Narrow in the same place every al- 
ternate round until there are but 72 stitches left, or 24 for each needle. 
Knit twenty rounds plain. Now begin the fingers. 

For the first one, take 10 stitches from the first needle and 10 from the 
last; then slip all the remaining stitches on a thread. Cast 9 stitches on 
a third needle, join the finger stitches and knit around plain until as 
long as the finger; then narrow off' quickly, thus: 

First Round. — Knit 2, narro\\-. all around. 

Second Bound. — Plain. 

Third Hound. — Knit 1, narrow: re]teat all aroimd. 

Fourth Round. — Plain. 

Now narrow all the stitches until one is left. Leave a length of ww>l 
and fasten neatly with a needle. 

For the second finger, take 9 stitches from the front of the glove and 9 
from the back; i>ick \\\) 9 .stitches wliere they were cast on to make a gore 
for the first finger ; knit these 27 stitches, then cast on 9 more and join to- 
gether; arrange these stitches on three needles and knit one round plain. In 
every alternate round narrow the first two and the last two stitches of the 
gores until there are only 29 stitches left for the finger. Continue and finish 
this linger like the first. 

The third finger is worked iike tlic second. 

For the fointh finger, the rest of the stitches are used, and this finger is 
knit like the others, except that you cast on 9 stitches and pick \\\> 9 Irom 
the "ore and narrow until there are 25 stitches left for the finger. 



Knitting. 1;">7 

For the thumb, take the 35 stitches from the threa<l and pick iij) 9 from 
the gore; work exactly like the fingers, narrowing to 35 stitches. 
These gloves are handsome knitted in black or bro^A•n silk. 

OPKRA HOOD. 

Two ounces white Berlin wool, and one ounce 1)lue. Needles No. 9. 

Cast on 1 stitch with white and increase at the beginning of every row 
until you have 8; and now you must always cast on 3 extra stitches at the 
beginning of a row. 

Seventh Row. — All seamed. 

EiglitTi Row. — Slip 1, * thi-cad over, narrow *; repeat from star to slai. 

Ninth, Row. — All s'^anicd. 

Tenth i?oio.— Plain. 

Eleventh Row. — Plain. 

Repeat from the eightli row till you have 15(5 stitches, knit two rows 
without increasings, narrow to 115 stitches, then bind off 3 stitches at the 
beginning of each row for six rows. This finishes the fore part; make a 
plait exactly in the middle, ojjposite the point, and with a wool needle and 
white wool gather the other part (on each side of the plait) so that it may 
measure extKtly twenty inches to form the neck. Pick up for the neck 98 
stitches. 

First Row. — Thread over, narrow, 1 plain, repeat. 

Second Row. — Over, knit plain till you come to the center stitch, over, 
knit plain the center stitch, over, knit plain. 

Work these rows twelve times. 

Twenty-fifth iZow.— Like the first. 

Two more plain rows, bind off". 

Trim the head with swansdowu oi-a quilling of blue ribbon. Run rib- 
bon in the holes. Finish with bows. 

lady's hood. 

Take Avoodeu needles about the size of a small pen-holder; get either 
I'ompadour wool or split zephyr of white or a delicate color. 

Cast on 60 stitches; knit plain very loose till you have a piece about fif- 
teen inches long; slip 30 stitches on a hairpin, knit the remaining 30 back 
and forth until you have made a strip about twenty inches long; bind off. 
Now go back to those on the hairpin and knit as you did the others. Cro- 
chet a pretty border around the whole thing, gather the ends and put a tassel 
on each. Gather the top loo.sely, and put on a lx)w. Cross the two ends be- 
hind and tie under the chin. 

AXOTHEK HOOD. 

Cast on 324 stitches, with white Shetland w(x>l. 
First Row. — All plain. 



158 



Home Decokatim: Work. 



Second Jiuw. — One j^laiu. thread owr. narrow; repeat the lirst and 
second rows, narrowing at the beginning of every row, till all the stitches 
are worked off. 

Line this with pale Idue or rose colored silk. The hood may he 
trimmed with some kind of an edge, and ribbon run in as before. 

A KNITTED HOOD. 

Put on the needle 90 stitches and knit in ridges of five rows, plain and 
seamed, until you have eighty-five rows. Then knit 27 stitches on one 
needle; now, drop 1 stitch, bind off 6 stitches, drop 1, bind off 6, and so con- 
tinue until there are 27 stitches left. 

These two groups of 27 stitches are each to be knit in ridges of five rows, 
until there are one hundred and fifty of them; then bind oft', dropping 
every seventh stitch. Pull your finger through the dropped stitches to make 
open work. These ends are to hang in front like cap-strings. Sew the hood 
together along the first row, bring the point toAvard the front, and iasten it 
with a large bow that stands up stylishly. Crochet a pretty lace all around 
the hood. 

chii.d's angora hood and muff. 

I'^rom six to eight balls of white or gray angora yarn are required lor the 
hood, also a pair of moderate sized bone needles. The knitting is all done 
plainly back and forth and is very rapid work. The beauty of the finished 
work is the surface like fur which is the same on both sides, and which 1»e- 
comes more thick and beautiful every time it is washed. 

Knit a piece of the 
shape of the diagram 
(,Fig. 116), making 
the longest edge of a 
sufficient length to 
reach around the front 
of the head. The nar- 
row bottom part is 
for the crown, the 
corner edges being- 
sewed together over 
and o\ er on the under 
side. A narrow strip 
can also be knitted 
Fi<- ""• and fulled on for a 

cape, if desired. The hood is prettily finished with rows of swansilowu, 
ribbon bows and ties (Fig. 118). Finely quilled lace or niching sewed iu 
at the front gives a pretty effect around the face. 



Knitting. 



159 




Fig. 118. 



To make a lovely little muff to match, kuit a strip as wide as the muff 
is to be long. Sew the strip together, stuff, line with silk, and trim with 
doA\-n and ribbons to match the hood. 

GEXTLEMAX'S KXITTED CAP. 

Materials: two No. 18 needles and coarse J)lack knitting silk. 
Cast on for the side 9(5 stitches, and, going back and forth on these, 
work four hundred and fifty plain rounds. 
But, in order to shape the cap, narrow a*5 Ibl- 
lows: before working off the first stitch, bring 
the silk before the needle; knit first round 
plain; returning, pay no attention to the last 
stitch with the thread before it, but turn the 
work, leaving 2 stitches on the needle; bring 
the thread before the needle before knitting 
the first stitch; knit the third round plain; re- 
turning, turn the work, leaving 4 stitches on 
the needle. Proceed in this manner, ea«h 
time leading the last stitch with the tliread be- 
fore it, till you kuit 51 stitches (this ■svlll be 
the ninetieth round). Now knit through the 
needle, knitting each double stitch as one, and 
at the end of this round the first gore is com- 
plete, and the same uuml)er of stitches are on the needle as in the fii*st 
round. Repeat this five times, and bind oft". Take \i]} the stitches on the 
under edge on three needles, and kuit in rounds lor the border, as follows: 
First Round. — All plain. 

Second Round. — Knit 3 plain, seam 3; repeat. 

Third to Liffhteenih Rounds. — Like the preceding round, but in every fol- 
lowing round the design should be carried 1 stitch farther, so that on the 
right side, to the ninth round, lines are fonucd from right to left, which re- 
turn from the tenth to the eighteenth rounds. Knit a few plain rounds, 
bind oft'. 

ladies' KXITTED SILK PIKSE. 
Two skeins of black purse silk, two skeins of old-gold purse silk, jet 
beads, steel clasp and chain, a tassel of black beads, and five fine steel 
knitting needles will be needed for this purse. (See Fig. 118.) 

Begin with the black silk, in the middle of the bottom part of the 
puise, and for one of its twelve divisions, cast on seven stitches; knit four- 
teen rows on these, back and forth, so that the work will be knitted on one 
side and purled on the other; the first row of this part is purled, and the 
first stitch of every row is slipped. * On that side Avhere hangs the thread 
with which you work, take the back chain of. the seven selvedge stitches of 
the part you have just knitted on a separate needle, and knit another part, 



160 



Home Decoratre AVork. 




Fig. 110. 



Knitting. 1(31 

the first row of which is knitted, and which must have fifteen roAVs; re]>eat 
ten times more from star. The stitches of several divisions can l)e taken on 
the same needle, to prevent the annoyance of working with so many needles. 

When the twelfth part is completed, take the selvedge stitclies on the 
left hand on another needle, cast them off together with the cast-on stitches 
of tlie first part, and fasten off the silk. Now take the seven right-liand 
selvedge stitches of one black part on a needle, take the old-gold silk (ha\nng 
first strung the beads on it) and work fifteen rows on these stitches, the first 
row being purled because on the wrong side. In the first, as in all the 
purled rows, the last stitch must be purled together with the next stitch of 
the next black part. In the purled -rows, moreover, excepting in the first 
and last one, a bead must be worked in after casting off the second and 
fourth and sixth stitches. The stitch must be worked by inserting the 
needle into the back part, and in drawing through the silk which has been 
thrown forward, letting the bead slide through the stitch so that it will be 
on the right side of the work. In the following knitte.d row, the needle 
must also be inserted into the back part of the bead stitch. When twehe 
such old-gold parts have been completed, work again twelve black parts on 
the selvedge stitch of the same, in which the beads are not knitted in, but 
sewed on afterward, when the purse is completed. Then work three times 
more alternately twelve old-gold and twelve black parts; when the last 
twelve black parts have been completed, cast off the stitches of the last 
black part together with the selvedge stitches, the first on the wrong side; 
the stitches of the sixth part are cast off in the same manner, together with 
the selvedge stitches of the seventh. The old-gold parts which remain to be 
worked on the black part are thus lessened by two; the second, third and 
fourth, and the seventh, eighth and ninth of these parts must be sis rows 
longer. Then gather all the stitches and selvedge stitches of the ten parts on 
two needles, in such a manner that the two black parts, the stitches and sel- 
vedge stitches of which have been cast off together, are jjlaced on the sides 
of the purse, and knit as follows, with black silk, first on the stitches of the 
one needle, and then on those of the other: One row knitted, knitting to- 
gether every third and fourth stitch; then work three rows backward and 
forward on the same number of stitches, which must be knitted on the right 
side; then work eight rows more in the same manner, casting off the first 
two stitches of the eight rows. Then cast off all the remainiiig stitches, sew 
the beads on the black i^arts according to the illustration; also the clasp and 
bead tassel. 

WRISTLETS FOR GEXTLEMEX. 

I'.se two shades of single zephyr. One pair of wristlets will require 

from an ounce to an ounce and a half of the wool. With the zephyr doubled 

cast 27 stitches on two of the needles and 18 on the third. Nine stitches 

fonn a shell. In the directions given below, only one group of the 9 stitches 

11 



162 Home Decorative Work. 

is considered. The directions are to be repeated in every instance, until you 
have worked all the groups of nine on the round. 

First Round. — Seam 2, knit 1, over, knit 4, narrow. 

Second Round. — Seam 2, knit 2, over, knit 3, narrow. 

Tliird Round. — Seam 2, knit 3, over, knit 2, narrow. 

Fourth Round. — Seam 2, knit 4, over, knit 1, narrow. 

Fifth Round. — Seam 2, knit 5, over, narrow. 

This forms one row of shells. Now take another shade of worsted, if 
you like, and begin as at first. It is pretty knit with two rows of shells of 
each color, or with but one color throughout. 

KNITTED FRINGE. 

Cast on 14 stitches. 

First Row. — Knit 2, over, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 7. 

Second Row. — Knit 8, over, narrow, knit 1, over, narrow, knit 1. 

Eepeat these two rows. The first 8 stitches are for the heading; the six 
plain are to be dropped from the needle when the fringe is of the required 
length. Then bind off the remaining 8 stitches and unravel those which 
were dropped for the fringe. Fringe made out of yarn for rugs is very hand- 
some. It should be dampened and pressed with a hot iron before raveling, 
to make it crinkled. 

A BALL FOE BABIES. 

Cast on 30 stitches and knit across plain. Turn and knit all but the 
last 7 stitches; leave them on the needle, pass the yarn between the needles, 
turn and knit back, leaving the last 7 stitches at that end; turn back and 
knit aU but 6; turn again and knit all but 6; then leave 5 at each end; then 
4; then 3; then 2; then 1; then knit all. Afterward knit once across plain; 
then tie on another color and repeat the rule. 

Be careful to make no mistake and you will begin each new gore at the 
same end. Knit nine gores, slip and bind loosely to finish the last gore, and 
sew the two edges, or what is better, knit together instead of slipping and 
blading first, in this way: put the needle through the first stitch where cast 
on, then through the firet stitch on the other needle and knit them together; 
then put the needle through the second stitch where cast on, and through 
the second stitch on the needle, and knit them together, then slip the firet 
stitch on the right-hand needle over the second, leaving only one stitch on 
the needle, and go on knitting the edges together in that way. Draw up 
one end and fasten, and fill with cotton. 

KNITTED CHAIR TIDY. 

This pattern is simple and very easy, so that it can be lelt off anywhere, 
and no trouble to know whereto begin next time. It is knit in strips, to 
be sewed tightly together. 

AVith No. 8 spool thread, or tidy cotton, cast on 31 stitches, using two 
needles. 

First Row. — Knit 15, narrow, knit 13, make 1, knit 1. 



Knitting. 163 

Seco7id Row.— Vnrl 15, purl 2 together, purl 13, make 1, purl 1. 

ntird F.ow. — ^<ame as first. 

Fourth Row. — Same as second. 

Fifth and Sixth Iio)cs. — Same as first. 

Sei-oith liow. — Same as second, etc., reversing tlie sixth row, so that it 
will come in ribs. The tidy can he knit any length and any width. Finish 
with a knit edge all around. 

KNITTED BRACES. 

These braces are knitted with coarse white cotton, taken double; the 
braces themselves are worked in brioche stitch, the lappets are knitted jilain. 

Begin at the bottom of the front lappet, make a foundation chain of 14 
stitches. Knit five rows plain backward and forward, then divide the 
stitches into halves to form the buttonhole; knit fifteen rows on each of 
the halves consisting of 7 stitches; then take the 14 stitches again on one 
needle and work seventeen rows on them; then work a second buttonhole 
like the first one. Knit six more rows plain, increasing one at the end of 
every row, so that the number of stitches at the end of the lappet is 20. 
Then begin the pattern in brioche stitch, which is worked as follows: 

Knit first one row, then slip the first stitch of the first following pattern 
row, * throw the cotton forward, slip the next stitch (slip the stitches always 
as if you were going to purl them), knit 2 together; repeat five times more 
from the star. The last stitch is knitted. 

Second Boiv.— Slip 1, * knit 2; the stitch which has been formed in the 
preceding row by throwing the cotton forward is slipped after the second 
knitted stitch; repeat five times more from the star; knit the last stitch. 

Third Hoiv.—^Uiy 1, * decrease 1 (here, and in all the following rows, 
knit the next stitch together with the stitch before it, which has been formed 
in the ijreceding row by throwing the cotton forward) , throw the cotton for- 
ward, slip 1; repeat from the star; knit the last stitch. 

Fourth i?oip.— Slip 1, *knit 1, slip the stitch which has been formed in 
the preceding row by throwing the cotton forward, knit 1; knit the last 
stitch. 

Repeat these four rows till the braces are long enough. Then knit six 
rows plain, decreasing one at the end of every row, then work each lapi)et 
separately, di^dding the stitches so that each one is 7 stitches wide. Each 
lappet has seventy-two rows; after the first eighteen rows, make a button- 
hole as described for the preceding one. 

Work eighteen rows between the first and second buttonholes. The 
lappets are rounded olf by decreasing after the second buttonhole. 
A QUirKLY MADE LAP-ROBE. 

Take common knitting yarn of two contrasting colors, and use Avooden 
needles. Use as many colors as you choose. Knit the robe in strips and 
sew them together, grouping the colors to suit your fancy. 



164 Home Decoeative "Work. 

Cast on 2 stitches, and knit l)ack and forth in "garter stitch," making 
a stitch every time across, until you have 20 stitches on your needle. Kow 
continue knitting, but without widening, until the strip is as long as you 
wish the robe; then narrow once every time across, until all the stitches are 
narrowed ofif. Line the robe with flannel, and finish each point with a bail 
or tassel of the yarn. 

KNITTED MATS FOR THE DINING TABLE. 

These mats are knit in three sizes. For the largest size, cast on 36 
stitches; for the next size, 30 stitches; and for the smallest, cast on 24 
stitches. The materials used are Iavo knitting needles, and a ball of white 
knitting cotton, No. 10. 

First Eow. — Knit 3, turn and knit the same 3 stitches over again. 

Second Bow. — Knit 6, turn and knit the same 6 stitches over again. 

Tiiird Row. — Knit 9, turn and knit the same 9 stitches over again. 

Fourth Bow. — Knit 12, turn and knit the same 12 stitches over again. 

Fifth Bow. — Knit 15, turn and knit the same 15 stitches over again. 

Continue knitting the rest of the stitches in the same way, only knitting 
3 more stitches each time, and after knitting to the end of the needle, turn 
and seam back to the beginning. This forms a gore; and it takes twenty 
gores to make a mat. After knitting the last gore, do not seam back to the 
beginning, but bind oft' the stitches, and sew the mat together. 

After making the other two mats, crochet a border around each of them 
by making 3 double crochet stitches with one chain between (or you can 
crochet any pattern you wish for border), using colored yarn, if liked. 

A KNITTED DOLL. 

A child will care more for this than for a fancifully dressed French doll 
with real hair, and eyes that move. The body is knit first, of red yarn, be- 
ginning at the neck. 

Cast on 14 stitches, widen at the beginning and end of the needle every 
other row until you have 28 stitches, then every row until you have 32 
stitches, then narrow once at the beginning and at the end of the needle. 

Knit one row across plain. 

Next row, narrow at the beginning and end ul" llie needle. 

Next row plain. 

Next row, naiTow at the beginning and end. 

Knit two rows plain. 

Next knit two tows, widening at the beginning and end of the needle, 
with one plain row between. 

Knit three row.s plain. ' 

Kmt one row, narrowing at each end. 

Knit four rows plain. 

Knit one row, narrowing at each end. 



Knitting. 165 

Continue knitting four rows plain and one row narrowed at each end, 
until there are 20 stitches. This completes half the jacket. 

After completing the other half in the same way, take up the stitches at 
the bottom of the jacket, and knit six rows of black for a belt. 

Begin the jiantaloons with blue, widening every third stitch on the 
back, and seaming the middle stitch. Knit four rows. 

In knitting the fifth row, widen each side of the seam. 

Knit three rows, and widen again, then three more plain. 

Take otf half the stitches for the leg. Count olf one-fifth of the stitches 
in the seat, and as you continue to knit, narrow on the back side of these so 
as to form a gore; knit the rest of the leg like a stocking. "WHien long 
enough to reach the shoe, have 24 stitches on the needle and finish with 
black. 

For the sleeves, cast on 8 stitches. Widen at each end of the needle till 
there are 16 stitches. 

Knit 16 rows, then narrow at each end of the needle 

Knit one row plain. 

Knit one row, narrowing at each end. 

Xow join on white, and use four needles. Knit 2, then widen on each 
needle. Knit six rows and narrow off the stitches. 

For the neck, jnck up 12 stitches at the top of the jacket with white. 
Using four needles, knit four rows j)lain. Take half the stitches on the back 
for hair, and knit with black. Widen five times on the first row; knit eight 
rows plain; knit three rows, narrowing each time at the beginning and end 
of the needle. 

Take the other half for the face and knit with white. Widen every 
second stitch on the first row, then knit four rows like the heel of a stock- 
ing, and widen on the right side twice in the middle. For the nose, knit 
across on the wrong side plain; on the right side widen at each end of the 
former widenings; knit five rows plain; next row, narrow olf the last two 
\\'idenings ; knit one row plain ; next row, narrow off" the other two widen- 
ings; knit two rows; knit two rows, narrowing at each end. Take the 
black and knit five rows like the toe of a stocking. 

For the rim of the hat take up stitches near the edge of the black, 
widen eveiy third stitch the first row; knit three times around in ribs, and 
bind off. 

Sew up where necessary, and stutf witli wool. 




l^arl^ 111 

CROCHET WOEK. 

'HE pretty aud useful fancy work known as "crochet" became 
fushiouable about the year 1838, although it was practiced in the 
nunneries as early as the sixteenth century. 

The stitch is so simple that anyone can learn to work it. Indeed, it re- 
quires less care and attention than most kinds of fancy work. At the saiue 
time, the finer kinds, such as" Irish point, raised rose, aud Honiton crochet 
are almost as beautiful as lace, and demand much skill and patience. 

The work, beiug a series of small stitches worked over and over again, 
requires the names of the stitches to be abbreviated, and certain marks 
made to show where the lines and stitches can be repeated, or the explana- 
tions of the patterns would be both long and tedious. The principal mark 
used in crochet is the asterisk (*), two of Avhich are placed in the explana- 
tion of the pattern at particular points; this means that the stitches placed 
TDctween the two are to be repeated from where they end at the second 
asterisk, by commencing them again from the first asterisk and working 
them to the second as many times as directed. The following is an example: 
"Work 5 tr, 3 ch, * miss 3 on foundation, 3 dc, * and repeat three times," 
would, if not abbreviated, be written thus: " ^york five trebles, three chain, 
miss three on foundation, work three doubles, miss three on foundation, work 
three doubles, miss three on foundation, work three doubles, miss three on 
foundation, work three doubles. " Occasionally letters are used, as, for in- 
stance, when a row is worked to a certain stitch, and is then repeated back- 
wards. The letter b is then put at the commencement of the row, and a 
where the stitches are to commence being worked backwards. Repetitions 
will sometimes occur within each other, and when this happens, the piece of 
work to be repeated within the other part, is marked oft' between two 
asterisks, and the second repetition i^laced within plain crosses. 

The Stitches Used in Crochet. 

The fundamental stitch used in crochet is the chain stitch; all other 
stitches are modifications of this. This is the stitch most used ibr the foun- 
dation or first row of a piece of work. 

CHAIN STITCH. 
Make a loop, and with the hook draw the thread through it, (Fig. 120.; 
This is the foundation of all crochet Avork, and its abJueviation is ch. 

166 



(.'rochet Work. 



167 




SINGLE CKOCHET. 

Put the liook through the stitch, draw the thread through, throw the 
thi-ead over the hook and draw through lioth the loop and the stitch. (Fig. 

121.) This is usually abbrevi- 
ated to sc. Drawing th3 new 
stitch through the stitch ou the 
hook makes a slip-stitch. 

DOUBLE CEOCHET. 

Put the thread over the hook, 

pass the hook through a stitch 

of the foundation, draw through, 

put the thread again over the 

hook, and draw through all 

three loops on the hook to- 

FiG. 12a gether. The abbreviation is dc. 

Tliis is also called half-treble stitch. 

TREBLE CEOCHET. 
Put the thread once over the hook, insert the hook into the foundation, 
draw a loop through the founda- 
tion; there will then be three 
loops on the hook, (Fig. 122.) 
Put the thread again over the 
hook, and draw through two 
loops; put the thread over the 
hook again, and draw through the 
next two loops. The abbrevia- 
tion is tr, 

(Short treble is worked the same Fig. 1 21 . 

as the above, only the wool is drawn througli all three loops at once, instead of 

first through two and then through 
two again. This is the same as dc. ) 

DOUBLE OR LONG TEEBLE. 
Put the thread twice over the 
hook, insert the hook into the foun- 
dation, put the thread over the 
hook, draw through the foundation, 
put the thread over the hook, draw 
through two loops, put the thread 
over the hook a second time, and 
draw through two loops, put the 
thread a third time over the hook and 
Fig. 122. drawthroughthelasttwoloopsonthe 

hook . (Fig 123) . To make longer trebles, throw thread over hook three times. 





168 



Home Decorative Work. 



These comprise the common stitches used in crochet; but there are some 
other more fanciful stitches that are used for special kinds of work, as shawls, 
afghans, etc. 

CROSS TREBLE. 

JIake a chain of the length desired. (Fig. 124.) Throw the yarn over 
the hook twice, put the hook into the first foundation stitch and draw the 
yarn through. There should now be four stitches on the hook. Put the 
yarn over, draw through two, yam over again, and put the hook into the 
second foundation stitch from where it was last j)ut through; draw the yarn 
through again, as before. There will now be five stitches on the hook. Yam 
over again, draw through two; yarn over, draw through two more; again 

yarn over, draw through two; 
yarn over again, draw through 
last two, chain one, yarn over, 
put tlie hook through the two 
loops indicated by the arrow 
point; draw the yam through; 
you now have three stitches on 
the hook; yam over, draw 
through two, yarn over, draw- 
through the last two. 

STAR STITCH. 

Make a chain of the required 
length and pull the last loop out 
Fig. 123. rather longer than the others. 

(Fig. 125.) Take up one loop from the first chain stitch in the foundation, 
one from the second chain, and from the third and fourth. There are now 
five stitches on the needle; throw the wool over the hook and draw through 
all five; then put the wool over, and draw through the last loop (that is, 
one chain). Draw out this last 
stitch till rather large; put the 
needle through the little hole at 
the point of the last shell (hole 
made by the last stitch) and 
raise a second loop; the third 
loop is obtained by putting the 
needle through the back of the 
last of the five stitches in the 
shell previously made; and the 
fourth and fifth loops are raised 
through the next stitches in the ^^'''■ 

foundation chain; wool over, draw througli all Wve loops oa the needle, 
and work one cliain. JJopeat these shells across the foundation chain. 







1 




/ 


,^ 


4' 


't 
^ 


%s:^Si^i 


^^ 


^ 


?^T 


\l 








i 


^H 


H 


^Sli 


1 


^9 




Crochet Work. 



169 




Second Row. — Join the -wool at the upper right-hand corner. (A neat 
way is to fold over the eiul for a half-iuth, draw the loop through, and then 
work the two threads like one. This is a firm join and neat, too, if no more 
wool than is necessary is doubled.) Work three small chain stitches, draw- 
ing the last one a little larger; raise a second loop from the chain preceding 
this, ami a third from the first chain, a fourth from the back of the upper 
Btitch iu the first star of the preceding row ; a fifth by putting the needle 
-^ through the little hole in the corner 

of the same star (that is, the first 
of the preceding row); work off all 
five, and work one chain. Then 
repeat to the end. 

TRICOT STITCH. 

The crochet needle must be 
rather a long one of bone, and of 
the same size .from end to end. 
(Fig. 126.) Make a chaia as for 
Fig. 125. aiiy crochet; suppose we say 17. 

First Row. — At the end, turn and work back on the chain thus: Put 
the needle through the fifteenth loop (the next but one to the last of the 
chain), and drawing the yarn through, leave the stitch on the needle; with 
this and the seventeenth stitch 
of the chaia, there will be two 
stitches on the needle. Put 
the needle through the next 
stitch of the chain, and draw- 
ing the loop through, leave 
that loop on the needle also. 
Go on to the end of the chain 
thus, and there will be six- 
teen loojis on the needle. In 
making a chain for tricot cro- 
chet, always make one more 
stitch than the number that 
the work is to have, so as to 
make a neat turn at the end. 

Second Row. — At the end of Fig. 126. 

the first row, ha\-ing all the stitches on the needle, take up the j'arn with the 
hook and draw it through the first stitch only; then catching the yarn up 
again, draw it through the stitch just made and the next stitch on the 
needle, then through the stitch just made and the next stitch, and so on to 
the end of the row, when only one stitch will be left on the needle. 

Tliird Row.—Vut the hook through the first perpendicular stitch of the 




170 Home Decorative AVoek. 

preceding row, and draw the yarn through, leaving the stitch thus made on 
the needle. Go to the end of the row thus, drawing the yarn through each 
perpendicular stitch of the preceding row, leaving all the stitches thus made 
on the needle; then work back as in the second row. 

So continue as far as desired. This form of crochet is called tricot be- 
cause it resembles knitting. 

BASKET-STITCH TEICOT. 

Make a chain of the length required. 

First Eow. — Work up a loop through the first stitch, work 1 chain 
through the loop. Repeat until all the loops are worked up. In working 
off, work through a loop, slip each alternate looj) off the hook, work 3 chain 
between the loops worked through. 

Second Row. — * Pass the slipped-off loop at the back of the chain, draw 
up a loop through it, then work 1 chain through the loop, draw up a loop 
through the next loop and under the chain, work 1 chain through the loop. 
Eepeat from the star. 

Begin again at the second row. 

MTSCOVITK TRICOT. 

Make a chain as usual. 

First Bow. — AVork up the loops as for ordinary tricot, work off the first 
loop, * 3 chain, work off the next two loops. Repeat from the star. 

Second Boxv. — ^^''ork uj) the loops like the last row, * 3 chain, work off 
two loops. Repeat from the star. 

Continue in this manner from the first row. 

JUI.IA STITCH — A VARIETY OK TKICOT. 

Make a chain of any leng-tli. 

First and Second Boirs. — Tricot. 

Third Bow. — Raise the first, * raise the next, then raise the one under- 
neath; pull the wool through this lower one, then through the next two loops, 
then 1 chain; raise the next stitch as usual. Repeat from the star. 

Now work two rows of tricot; then go back to the third row. 
PEAK STITCH — A VAEIETV OF TRICOT, 

Make a chain as long as desired. 

First Bow. — Raise all the stitches; work 2 chain, then * pull the wool 
through 2 loops three times in succession, insert the hook in the last loop but 
one, pull the wool through, and work 2 chain. Repeat from the star. 

Second Bow. — Put the wool over the hook, raise the second of the 2 
chain. Count at the end of this row to see whether the number of your 
stitches is correct. Work back as in tricot. 

Fourth Boiv. — Tricot, raising the sloping stitches as well as the others. 

Repeat these rows. 

CRAZY STITCH. 

JSIake a chain of stitches of the length desired (Fig. 127). Throw the yarn 



Ckocuet A\'ukk. 171 

over the needle, take up the third nearest stitch to the needle, tliro^v the 
yarn over the needle and pull through the loop, throw the yarn over again, 
and pull it through the nearest two loops on the needle, and crochet the re- 
maining two loops off in the same way. This completes the first double 
stitch. Make 2 more double stitches in the same looii. Then take up the 
third loop in the chain, counting from the loop holding the 3 double stitches; 
throw the yarn over the needle, then pull the yarn through it and the loop 
on the needle at once, to fasten down the shell thus made. Then make a 
chain of 3 stitches, throw the yarn over the needle, pass the needle through 
the loop holding the last stitch, and make 3 double stitches in this loop; 
make the single or fastening stitch in the third stitch in the chain from this 
stitch. Then make a chain of 3 stitches, and proceed all along the chain in 
making the chain of 3 stitches, a shell of 3 double stitches, and the single 




Fig. 127. 
fastening stitch in order as dcscriljed. When at the end of the chain, make 
a chain of 3 stitches, then turn the work and take up the third stitch in the 
shell of the 3 double stitches last made, and pull the yarn through to make the 
fastening stitch described. Then make a chain of 3 stitches, throw the yarn 
over the needle, and pass the needle in the nearest hole formed by the chain 
of 3 stitches in the first row; make 3 double stitches in this hole; then make 
a single crochet stitch in the third stitch in the next shell; then a chain of 3 
stitches, then 3 doubles in the next hole formed by the chain of stitches, and 
so on to the end of the row. At the end of the row, take on the last stitch 
in tlie shell remaining, making a single crochet here; make a chain of 3 
stitches, turn, and proceed from the first row. 

DOUBLE-SHELL STITCH. 

Make a chain of tht^ desired length. (Fig. 128.) 

First How. — In the second stitch of the foundation chain make 8 lona 



172 



Home Decorative Work. 



crochet stitches rather loosely ; skip 3 stitches, and fastea with a single cro- 
chet. Skip 3 stitches and work 8 trehle stitches. Continue this the entire 
length. Break the wool. 

Second Row. — Fasten the wool in the first stitch of the first shell; then 
put the hook through the first stitch, and draw the wool through loosely; 
then through the second stitch and so on, until you have 6 loops on the hook. 
Draw tlie wool through all the stitches, and fasten with a single crochet 
stitch, 3 chain, and fasten in the stitch that the last loop was drawn through 
(rt); 11 stitches made as before from the top of the second shell to the top of 
the third shell. Draw the wool through the 11 loops; then chain and fasten 
in the stitch the last loop was drawn through. Eepeat from a the entire 
row. Break the wool. 

Tliird Row. — Fasten at the opposite end, 3 chain, 4 treble stitches in 
the 1 chain that fastens the 6 loops in the preceding row {a) ; 1 single cro- 
chet stitch in the single crochet stitch of the second row, 8 trebles iu 




Fig. 128. 
the next 1 chain that fastens the next shell. Eepeat from a to end nf the 
row. Break the wool. 

Foitrih Roic. — This row is the same as the second row, but is be.njjun with 
a whole shell instead of a half shell. 

irOLI.OW-SPOT STITCH. 

Make a foundation chain of the length rcMjuired. upon whicli worlv a 
straight row of double crcchet. (Fig. 120.) 

First Row. — Work 5 double stitches, insert the liook into the l)ottom 
front part of the stitch of the preceding row, and work 4 trebles witliout 
touching the stitch on the hook left from the double, crochet, always putting 
the hook into the saniestitcli in tlic ])reccding row. 



Crochet Work. 



173 



For the fifth treble, put it into the same stitch as the preceding 4, then 
take up the -wool and -work off the 3 loops on the hook, as in treble crochet. 
Work 5 doubles, missing the stitch of the preceding row under the s]K>t. 
The second row will have the spots worked iu it as above, T)ut they will be 

placed so as to come alternately 



with the ones first worked. They 
must be worked all on the right 
side, each row being fastened off. 

EICE STITCH. 

Make a chain of any desired 
length. (Fig. 130.) Wind your 
thread five times around the 
needle, put the needle through 
the second loop of the foundation 
chain, pass the needle under the 
thread, draw the thread through 
Fig. 129. the loop, and then draw it 

through all the loops on the needle. This makes a group of threads like 





Fig. 130. 
grains of rice. Make a chain stitch before proceeding to make the next 
group. In the next row the groups are to be placed in the chain stitch of 
the preceding row, as shown in the cut. 

CROSS-AXD-B.VLI. STITCH. 
For this a coarse bone hook No. 2 and tliree shades of double Berlin wool 
are required. (Fig. 131.) The pattern is worked lengthwise and must be 



IT-i 



Home Decorative Work. 




(lone loosely. Make a chain of the length required, using light shade of red. 
First Row. — Work a treble into the third chain*; now cross back in front 
of this and work a short treble into the second chain, then miss 1 loop, 
cross back again and work a short treble into the same loop as the last treble 
but one was worked into. Miss 2 chain and work a single treble into the 
next stitch. Repeat from the star. Fasten the wool at the end of the row. 
Second Roto. — Join the white with an sc. (You must always work 

over two threads of the 
under row, not merely 
through one thread.) 
* Work a single crochet 
into the next, then 5 
chain, and another sc into 
the same hole. This 
forms the first ball, which 
ought to be exactly over 
the crossed trebles. Work 
a double into the next, 
"(always over two threads, 
Fig. 131. not over the whole three). 

Repeat from the star. 

Third Row. — Join the darkest shade of red -with an sc, then 3 chain, 
* 1 treble (exactly in the middle of the next 2 balls, that is, over the second 
of the 3 do stitches), a short treble into the place where you joined, crossing 
over as before explained. Repeat from the star. Always work the short 
treble into the same hole as the last 
treble Ijut one. These rows are re- 
peated alternately. 

THREE- LOOP CROCHET. 

This pattern is most suitable for 
a large hook and fleecy wool or ten 
or twelve thread. Make a chain of 
the required length, loop the wool 
twice around the hook backward (in 
the opposite direction to the way in 
which it is generally looped); pass 

the hook downward through the Fig. 132. 

next stitch lying at the back of the row (see the arrow). Now bring llie 
wool in front of the stitcli just taken on the liook and draw the wool through 
the 3 loops on the hook. Every stitch is the same. Always begin at the 
same end. (Fig. 132.) 




Crochet Work. 



175 



MOSAIC STITCH. 

A hone hook Xo. 2 aud single ■wool are used for this pattern. (Fig. 1:^3.) 
Make a foundation chain. 

First Jiow. — Work a treble into the fourth stitch, then 7 more trollies 
into the same hole, * miss 2 loops of the foundation chain and work 1 double 
in the next; miss 2 loops, work 8 trebles into the next. Eepeat from the 
star to the end of the row ; fasten off. 

Second Bow. — Join to the first stitch of the preceding row by an sc, 
then put the wool round the hook and insert the hook from the back through 
the space left between the first and second trebles of the preceding row (not 
through the exact center but so as to have only two threads above), then put 
the hook back in the same way underneath the next treble (which looks like 
a large chain), draw the wool through, then draw it through the next two so 
as to make a treble stitch. You ought now to have two loops on your hook, 
as in tricot. Do this twice more (beginning with the last stitch used), and 
when you liave four loops on your hook draw the wool through all these 
stitches, and make 1 chain to draw it securely together. "Work 1 chain to 
complete the stitch. ^ Work 3 chain, 1 doiible into the hole of the pre- 
ceding row between the fourth and fifth treble stitches. Work treble 




Fig 133. 

stitches as described above, remembering to keep the last loop of all on the 
hook each time, miss the double stitch in the former row, aud when you 
have 8 tricot trebles on your hook draw the wool through all the stitches, 
then make 1 chain to end it securely. Eepeat from the star. There ought 
always to be eight loops on the hook when you get to the middle of a peak. 
At the end of the row there will be only a half square like the beginning. 

Tliird 7?ow'.— Begin this row at the first chain of the foundation row, 
joining with a double stitch. Work 12 trebles into the small hole formed by 
the 1 chain at the peak, * 1 double into the .same place as in the former row, 



176 Home Decorative Work. 

working completely over the underneath stitch so as to cover it. Work 8 
doubles into the small hole at the next peak formed by the single chain 
stitch. Eepeat from the star. You perceive that this row is all treble; 
there is no tricot. At the end of the row work 12 trel^les and finish olf by a 
single stitch into the ast stitch of the foundation. 

Fourth Bow Join the wool at the eighth treble, which is the peak, by 
a single stitch, and then proceed as in the second row ; end with 3 chain into 
the last stitch. 

Fifth Bow. — Like the third, only begin at the same stitch as in the pre- 
ceding row. Eepeat these rows alternately. The cut gives the ends of the 
wool left exactly as in working. 

Sixth Boiv. — Begin at the same place and work 12 this time to make the 
first square complete. 

Orochetted Edgings. 

In working the following edgings and laces, care should be taken to 
work all the stitches evenly and closely. Coarse, loose work is never pretty, 
and the handsomest pattern can be spoiled by poor work. Any of the 
edgings which begin with a long foundation chain can be worked directly upon 
the material, by piercing holes with a darning needle at suitable intervals 
near the edge of the hem, and crochetting the second row directly into these 
instead of the foundation chain. This looks well and saves the trouble of 
se\\ iug on. In nearly every instance, one can easily see how to make an 
insertion to match, by omitting the scalloped part and working the two 
edges just alike. This is so easy to do that it has not been deemed neces- 
sary, as a rule, to give separate directions for insertions. 
ONE-ROW EDGING. 

Make a chain of 3 stitches, and work 3 tr into the first ; this makes one 
point. Now work 3 ch, and then 3 tr into the top of the last tr made 
(always catching through two threads), and continue in this manner to any 
length desired. 

By puncturing the edge to be trimmed with a darning needle at regular 
intervals of a quarter of an inch or less apart, this edge can be attached as 
fast as made without the work of sewing on. Work on the wrong side. In 
that case, fasten the thread in a hole, work 3 chain, then 3 tr in the same 
hole, then fasten in the next hole with a close slip-stitch ; now 3 ch, 3 tr in 
the same hole, and fasten in the next with a slip-stitch, so continuing to the 
end. 

HALF-SHELL EDGE. 
Make a chain of T) and fasten in a ring with a tr in the firet stitch. Now 
work 1 sc and 10 tr in the ring; turn, 5 ch, and fasten with a close slip- 
stitch in the top of the fourth tr of the half-shell; then turn and work in the 
ring 1 sc and 10 tr, as before. So continue as far as desired. This can also 



Crochet Work. 177 

be worked directly on the edge of a hem, if desired. 

TWO-ROW EDGING. 

First Row. — Crochet a chain of any length desired ; turn. 
Second How. — Work 1 tr in the third stitch from the end; 2 ch and catch 
into the top of the last tr with a close slip-stitch to form a picot ; 2 tr in the 
same stitch of the foundation. * Now skip 3 stitches of the foundation, 
work 2 tr in the next, make a picot as before, 2 tr in the same stitch ; repeat 
from tlie star to the end. 

If it is desired to work the edge directly upon the material, omit the 

foundation chain, and punch 
a series of holes with a darn- 
ing needle, at suitable inter- 
vals. Fasten the thread in a 
hole, 3 ch, 1 tr in the same 
Fig. 134. hole, work a picot as above, 

and 2 tr in the same place; then * 2 tr in the next hole, picot, 2 tr in the 
same place ; and continue from the star to the end. 

Worked in silk, this makes a dainty trimming for baby's flannels. It 
is also pretty in linen or cotton. 

KARROW-SCALLOP EDGING. 
Make a chain of the desired length. 

First Roio. — Work 1 tr into every stitch of the foundation. 
Second Bow. — Fasten the thread in a stitch, then work 1 sc, 3 tr, 1 sc all 
in the next stitch, fastening in the next with a close slip-stitch; then 1 sc, 3 
tr, 1 sc in the next, fastening in the next again with a slip-stitch. Continue 
in this manner to the end. 

If it is desired to work this directly upon the material, work the row 
of tr through holes made with a darning needle irf the edge of the hem, in- 
stead of first making a foundation chain. Work on the wrong side of the 




EYELET EDGING. 

Make a chain of 4 stitches; turn. 

First Row. — Work 1 sc in each of the last 3 stitches of the foundation; 
turn. 

Second Row. — Work 2 ch, then 1 tr in each of the next 3 stitches, 5 ch 
and fasten with a slip-stitch in the last stitch of the row of sc; turn. 

TJtird Row. — Work 10 sc in 5 ch, then 1 sc in each of the next 3 
stitches; turn. 

Repeat from the second row. 

BUTTONHOLE EDGE. 

Make a chain of 4 stitches; turn. 

First i?ow.— Work a shell (3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr) in the fourth stitch; turn. 
Second Roio. — Work 2 ch, shell in shell; turn. 
12 




178 Home Decokative Work. 

Third Bow. — Work 2 ch, shell in shell, 6 ch and fasten with a slip-stitch 
at the end of the previous shell ; turn. 

Fourth How. — Work 12 sc in 6 ch, shell in shell; turn. 
Eepeat from the third row. 

OPEN-POINT EDGING. 

Make a chain of 9 stitches; turn. 

First BouK — Skip 3 stitches of the foundation, and work 1 tr in each of 
the next five stitches, 3 ch, 1 tr in the last stitch; turn. 

Second Bow. — Work 4 ch, 3 tr in 3 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in the middle one of 

the 5 tr, 2 ch, and fasten 
with 1 tr in the end of the 
previous row; turn. 

TJiird Bow. ~^Yol± 6 ch, 
1 tr in the middle tr of the 
previous row, 2 ch, 1 tr in 
the top of the first of 3 tr, 1 
Fig. 135. tr in each of the next 2 tr, 

3 tr in 4 ch, 3 ch, 1 tr in the same place; turn. 

Fourth Bow. — Work 4 ch, 3 tr in 3 ch of previous row, 2 ch, 1 tr in the 
third of the 6 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last of the 6 tr; turn. 

Eejieat from the third row to any length desired ; then go over the 
bottom edge throughout, working it over with single crochet as closely as 
possible, xjutting about 7 sc in the middle loops of 6 ch and 2 sc in the others. 
This is a pretty pattern, and it makes a very durable edging, if it is Avorked 
closely throughout. 

QUICK EDGING. 

Make a chain of 8 stitches; turn. 

First Bow. — Work 1 tr in the third and each of the following 3 stitches, 

4 ch and fasten with a slip-stitch at the end ; turn. 

Second Boio. — Work 10 tr in the hole just formed, 3 ch and fasten with 1 
tr in the last stitch of the previous row ; turn. 

Third Bow. — Work 3 ch, then 4 tr in the hole just formed, 4 ch and 
fasten with a slip-stitch in the fourth tr of the scallo^i; turn. 

Repeat from the second row. 

POINTED-SCALLOP EDGE. 

Make a chain of 4 stitches ; turn. 

First Bow. — Work 3 tr in the fourth stitch of the foundation, 2 ch, 3 tr 
in the same place; turn. 

Second Bow. — Work 3 ch, then 3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr in 2 ch; turn. 

Third 7?o?<;.— Work 3 ch, then shell (3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr) in shell, 1 tr in 3 
ch; turn. 

Fourth Bow. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 6 tr in looj) of 3 ch, 3 ch, 6 tr in 
same loop, and fasten with a slip-stitch in the point of the next shell; turn. 



Crochet Work. 



17C. 




Fifth Row. — Work 1 sc in each of the 6 tr, 3 eh and fasten with 1 sc in 
the first stitcli of the middle loop, 3 ch and fasten with 1 sc i:i the second 
stitch, 3 ch and fasten with sc in the third stitch, then 1 sc in each of the 6 
tr, 1 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in 3 ch; turn. 
Repeat from the second row. 

KOSE EDGING. 
Make a chain of 14 stitches. 

Firnt Row. — Turn and work 1 Ir in the sixth stitch fjom the end, 6 ch, 
1 tr in the fourth stitch of the foundation from the last one worked, C ch, 1 

tr in the next stitch but one, 3 

ch, 1 tr in the same stitch as 

before, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last 

stitch of the foundation ; turn. 

Second Row. — Work 6 ch, 1 

tr in 3 ch,; then 2 ch, 1 tr, 3 

Fig. 136. <^h; 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr, all in the 

s.ime 3 ch: 3 ch, fasten to the middle of the 6 ch with an sc, 3 ch, 1 tr in 

last 6 ch ; turn. 

Tliinl XJo?P.— Work G ch, 1 tr in the last 3 ch, 6 ch (miss 3 ch and 2 ch), 
1 tr in the next 3 ch; then 2 ch, 1 tr, 3 ch, 1 tr 2 ch, 1 tr, all in the same 
3 ch ; turn. 

Repeat from the second row. Use fine thread and a fine hook, and 
make all the stitches short and close. 

TRIPLE-LOOP EDGING. 
Make a chain of four stitches; turn. 

First Row. — Work 1 sc in the last 3 stitches of the foundation. 
Second Row. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next C stitches; turn. 
Third Row. — Work 1 sc in each of the next 3 tr; turn. 
Fourth Row. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next C stitches, 5 ch and 
fasten it with a slip-stitch in the last stitch of the preceding row of sc; turn. 
Fifth Roto. — Work 10 sc in the loop of 5 ch, then 1 sc in each of the next 
3 stitt'.ies; tui-n. 

Sixth Roiv. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 stitches, 5 cli, and 
fasten with a slip-stitch in the same place as the last tr; turn. 

Seventh iJoH'.— Work 5 sc in the first half of the 5 ch, turn, 5 ch and 
fasten in the middle of the pre%dous scallop, turn and work 10 sc in the 5 ch, 
then 5 more sc in the last half of the pre\ious 5 ch to complete the scallop, 
1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches ; turn. 

(This makes a very pretty edging repeated from the fourth row; but a 
more elaborate one is produced by addinp; the following rows.) 

Eighih Row. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 stitches; then 1 ch, 
1 tr, in every other stitch all around the scallop, then 1 ch and fasten -u-ith a 
slip-stitch to the first row of sc; turn. 



180 Home Decorative Work. 

Mnth Row. — Work 1 sc, 1 dc, 1 sc in every opening of 1 ch around the 
scallop, then 1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches; turn. 

This completes one scallop. Eepeat from the second row. 

EVEELASTING LACE EDGE. 

Make a chain as long as the trimming desired. 

First Bow. — Work 1 tr in a stitch, 1 ch, miss 1 on the foundation, 1 tr 
in the next, 1 ch, miss 1, 1 tr, etc. to the end. 

Second Bow. — Work 7 ch, pass over 5 stitches and fasten with 1 sc in 
the next, (5 ch, pass over 3 and fasten with 1 sc in the next) three times; 
repeat from the beginning of the row. 

TJiird Bow. — Work 8 tr in 7 ch, 2 ch and fasten with 1 sc in the middle 
of 5 ch, 5 ch and fasten as before in the middle of the next 5 ch, 5 ch and 
fasten as before in the next, 2 ch ; repeat from the beginning of the row. 

Fovrth Bow. — Work 1 tr, 1 ch, into each of the 8 tr of the preceding 
row, then 2 ch and fasten with 1 sc in the middle of 5 ch, 5 ch and fasten as 
before in the middle of the next 5 ch, 2 ch; repeat from the beginning of the 
row. 

Fifth Boiv. — Work 1 tr, 2 ch in the top of each of the 8 tr of the preced- 
ing row, 3 ch and fasten with 1 sc in the middle of 5 ch, 3 ch ; repeat from 
the beginning of the row. 

Sixth Bow. — Work 1 tr into the first of the 8 tr of the previous row, 3 
ch, 1 dc in first stitch of this chain, 1 tr in the next tr, and repeat around 
the scallop; then 2 ch and fosteu with 1 sc in the sc of the preceding row, 2 
ch; repeat from the beginning of the row. 

PICOT- SCALLOP EDGING. 

Make a chain of 7 stitches ; turn. 

First Bow. — Skip 3 stitches of the foundation, and work 3 tr in the next, 
3 ch, 3 tr in the same place, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last; turn. 

Second Bow. — Make 4 ch, 1 tr in the first tr of the shell, 2 ch, work a 
shell in the middle of the former shell (always 3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr), and fasten 

with an sc to the top of the 
former shell; turn. 

Tliird Bow. ~\s oik 5 ch, 
shell in shell, 2 ch, 1 tr in 
last tr of former shell, 2 ch, 
1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in 
middle of 4 ch ; turn. 

Fourth Bow. — Work 4 ch. 
Fig. 137 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in 

next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the first tr of the shell, 2 ch, shell in shell, iasten to the 
top of the last shell with an sc; turn. 

Fifth /?oi(;.— Work 5 ch, shell in shell, 2 ch, 1 tr in last tr of former 
shell; turn. 




Crochet Work. 181 

Repeat from the second row as far as desired. 

Work the tiny picot scallops of the lower edge as follows: Fasten the 
thread in the first hole of the edge, 2 ch, fasten with an sc at the beginning 
of 2 ch (forming a picot), 1 sc in the next hole, 1 picot (2 ch fastened with 
an sc at the base of the 2 ch), 1 sc in the next hole, 1 picot, 1 sc in the next 
hole at the point, 1 picot, 1 sc in the same hole, 1 picot, 1 sc in the next 
hole, 1 picot, 1 sc in the next, 1 picot, 1 sc in the next, 1 sc in the next, 1 
picot, 1 sc in the next, and so on to the end. 

HOUR-GLASS EDGE. 
Make a chain of five stitches; turn. 

First Eou\ — Work 1 sc in each of the last 4 stitches; turn. 
Second Row. — Work 6 ch and fasten with 1 tr in the last stitch of the 
row of sc; turn. 

Third i?ow.— Work 6 ch and fasten with 1 tr in the fifth stitch of the 

pre%ious 6 ch ; turn. 

Fourth Row. — Work 4 ch and with a 
slip-stitch fasten this and the middle of 
the two rows of 6 ch together, 3 ch and 
fasten with 1 tr in the fifth stitch of the 
preceding row ; turn. 
Fig. 138. Fifth Row. — Work 4 ch and fasten 

with 1 sc in the third stitch of 4 ch of the previous row; turn. 

Eepeat from the first row. This completes the foundation j)art. The 
scallops are work ed as follows, after fastening the thread at the corner of the 
first ' ' hour-glass. ' ' 

Fird i?oio.^Work 6 ch and fasten with a slip-stitch at the other corner 
of the " hour-glass " ; turn. 

Second Row. — Work 2 sc, 2 ch — in G ch five times, 2 sc in the same, 
and fasten with a slip-stitch in the last stitch of the row of s(! ; turn. 

Third Row. — Work 1 sc, 1 dc, 1 sc — in each loop of 2 ch around the scal- 
lop, and fasten with a slip-stitch in the last stitch of the row of sc; turn. 
This finishes one scallop. 

HAI>F-WHEEL EDGING. 

Make a chain of four stitches; turn. 

First Row. — Work a shell (3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr) in the last stitch of the foun- 
dation; turn. 

Second Row. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell; tmn. 

Tliird Rotv. — Work 5 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in 3 ch; turn. 

Fourth Row. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in last tr of last shell, (2 ch, 
1 tr, in loop of 5 ch) five times, festen with a slip-stitch in the point of the 
next shell; turn. 

Fifth Row. — Work 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc — in each loop of 2 ch, around the seal- 




182 Home Decorative Work. 

lop, fasteuing with a slip- stitch over each tr, shell iu shell, 1 tr iu 3 ch; 
turn. 

Kepeat from the second row. 

CRAZY EDGING. 

Make a chain of the desired length; turn. 

First Row. — Work 4 tr iu the fourth stitch of the foundation, and fasten 
with 1 sc in the third stitch from that, 3 eh, 4 tr in the same stitch as the 
sc and fasten with 1 sc in the next third stitch, and so continue to the end; 
turn. 

Second Row. — Work 6 ch and fasten with 1 sc under 3 ch, 6 ch, fasten 
with 1 sc under the next 3 ch, and so continue to the end ; turn. ^ 

Third Row. — Work 6 ch and fasten with 1 sc under the first 6 ch of the 
preceding row, 6 ch, 1 sc under next 6 ch, and so continue to the end ; turn. 

Fourth Row. — Work 3 ch, 4 tr under 6 ch, 1 sc under the next 6 ch, 3 
ch, 4 tr under the same 6 ch, 1 sc under the next 6 ch, and so continue to the 
end; turn. 

Fifth Row. — Work 3 ch, 4 tr in the top of the first tr of the last row, 1 sc 
in 3 ch of former row, 3 ch, 4 tr in the same 3 ch, 1 sc in the next 3 ch, 4 tr 
in the same 3 ch, 1 sc in the next 3 ch, and so continue to the end. 

WINDOW EDGING. 

Make the openwork as follows: 9 ch, turn and fasten in the third stitch 
from the beginning with 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the first stitch of the foundation; 
turn, 4 ch, 1 tr in the middle tr of the previous row, 2 ch, 1 tr in the second 

stitch of the next loop; turn. 
For the close work, * 3 ch, 
4 tr in the first hole, 9 tr in 
the next, 4 tr and 1 sc in the 
next, and fasten with a close 
slip-stitch in the same place 
where the tr of the open- 
FiG. 139. work was fastened ; turn and 

work back with 1 sc in every tr of the previous row ; turn. 

Begin the next openwork by 4 ch, and fasten with 1 tr in the third 
stitch of the close work, 2 ch, 1 tr in the third stitch from the la.st; turn, 4 
ch, 1 tr iu the top of the middle tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the third stitch of 4 ch; 
turn. 

Now repeat from the star to any length desired. This edging can al-so 
be worked directly on the material. 

ZIG-ZAG EDGING. 

Make a chain of the desired length; tiirn. 

First Row. — Work 1 sc in the fourth stitch of the foundation, 7 ch and 
fasten with 1 sc to the next fourth stitch, 7 ch, fasten Avith 1 sc in the next 
fourth stitch, and so continue to the end; break the thread. 




Crochet Work. 183 

Second Bow. — Work 1 sc in the middle of the first 7 ch, * 1 tr in the 
middle of the next 7 ch, 3 ch, 5 tr over the tr just made, 1 tr in the mid- 
dle of the next 7 ch, 3 ch, 5 tr over the tr just made; repeat from the star to 
the end. 

This is very pretty worked directly upon the edge of cambric ruffling, 
omitting the foundation chain. The ruffling comes by the bolt in different 
widths with a hea\'y thread in the top edge to draw it up. 

ANY WIDTH EDGING. 

Make a chain of the length required; turn. 

First Row. — Work back with 1 tr in each stitch of the foundation; turn. 

Second Bow. — Work 1 sc in each of the nearest 3 stitches, 5 ch, pass over 
3 stitches, 1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, 5 ch, miss 3, and so continue to 
the end ; turn. 

Third J?o!i'.— Work 3 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr— in the first loop; 3 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr— in 
the second loop, and so on to the end. This forms a row of shells all the 
way across. Repeat this row (working the shells in the 3 ch of the former 
shells) as many times as desired. 

Last iJoio.— Work 3 tr in the 3 ch of the first shell, 3 ch, 1 dc in the first 
stitch of the same 3 ch to form a picot, 3 tr in the same place as before, and 
so continue the row of picot shells to the end. 

EICK-RACK EDGE. 

Make a chain of 15 stitches; turn. 

First Botv. — Work 1 sc in the sixth stitch, 3 ch, 1 sc in the ninth stitch, 
3.ch, 1 sc in the twelfth, 3 ch, 1 sc in the fifteenth, 4 ch; turn. 

Second Brno. — Work 1 sc in the first loop, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next, 3 ch, 1 

sc in the next, 3 ch, 1 sc in the 
last, 4 ch ; turn. 

Third Bow. — Work 1 sc in the 
first loop, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next, 3 
ch, 1 sc in the next, 3 ch, 7 tr in 
the next, 3 ch ; turn. 

Fourth Bow. — Work 1 sc between 
the first and second tr's, 3 ch, 1 sc 
between the second and third; so 
Fig. 140. continue around the scallop, then 

3 ch, 1 sc in the first loop, repeated to the end, 4 ch; turn. 

Repeat from the second row, fastening each scallop with an sc to the pre- 
ceding scallop. 

CROSS EDGING. 
Make a chain of 18 stitches; turn. 

First Boio. — Work 1 tr in the ninth stitch from the needle, 2 ch, 1 tr 
in the twelfth, 2 ch, 1 tr in the fifteenth, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last stitch; turn. 
Second Bow. — Work 4 ch, 1 tr over the nearest tr of the last row, 2 ch, 1 




184 Home Decorative Work. 

tr over the next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr over the next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the third stitch 
of the last loop; turn. 

Third Row. — Work 4 ch, 4 tr in the second loop of 2 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in the 
last tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the third stitch of the last loop. 

Fourth Row. — Work 4 ch, 4 tr in second loop of 2 ch, 2 ch, pass over 4 tr, 

4 tr in last loop of 4 ch, 4 ch, fasten with a slip-stitch at the end of the last 
row but one; turn. 

Fifth Row. — "Work 10 tr in the loop of 4 ch, 2 ch, 4 tr in middle loop of 
2 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in the top of the last 4 of tr of the preceding row, 2 ch, 1 tr 
in the third stitch of the last loop; turn. 

Sixth Row. — Work 4 ch, 1 tr in the nearest tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the first of 4 
tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last of 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the first tr of the scallop, then 
2 ch, 1 tr — between all the tr's around the scallop, fasten with a slip-stitch to 
the end of the next row ; turn. 

Seventh iJow.— Work 1 sc, 2 tr, 1 sc — in every 2 ch around the scallop, 2 
ch, 1 tr in the next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the next tr, 2 
ch, 1 tr in the third stitch of 4 ch ; turn. 

Repeat from the second row^ 

SQUARE-AND-PICOT EDGING. 

Make a chain of 18 stitches; turn. 

First Row. — Work 1 tr in the fifth stitch from the needle, 7 ch, pass over 

5 stitches, 1 tr in each of the next 4 stitches, pass over 2 stitches, 1 tr in the 
next; turn. 

Second Row. — Work * 4 ch, 1 dc in the first stitch of the same 4 ch, * 
and repeat from star to star twice more (forming three picots), 1 tr in the 
top of the first of 4 tr of the preceding row, 4 tr under 7 ch, 7 ch, 2 tr sepa- 
rated by 2 ch in the loop at the end of the row ; turn. 

TJiird Roiv. — Work 5 ch, 1 tr under 2 ch, 7 ch, 4 tr under the further 
part of 7 ch of the last row, 1 tr in the tr at the end of the last row. 

Repeat from the second row. 

SURPRISE EDGING. 

Make a chain of 18 stitches; turn. 

First Roiv. — Work 3 tr in the third stitch from the needle, 3 ch, pass 
over 3 stitches of the foundation, 3 tr in the next stitch, 6 ch (pass over 6 
stitches of the foundation), 1 tr in the next, 3 ch, 1 tr in the last stitch; turn. 

Second Row. — Work 7 ch, 1 tr over the next tr, 6 ch, shell in shell (3 tr, 
3ch, 3 tr— in 3 ch); turn. 

Third Row. — Work 6 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, 1 sc over the middle of the 
2 previous 6 ch's, 3 ch, 1 tr over the next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in the fourth stitch 
of 7 ch; turn. 

Fourth Row. — Work 7 ch, 1 tr over the next tr, 6 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr 
in last tr of the previous shell, then 4 ch, 1 tr — four times in the loop of 6 ch, 
fasten with a slip-stitch in the point of the previous shell ; turn. 




Crochet Work. 185 

Fifth Roxo. — Work back around the scallop, puttiug 1 dc, 3 tr, 1 dc, iu 
each of the loops of 4 ch fastened by a slip-stitch over each tr, shell in shell, 
6 ch, 1 tr over tr, 3 ch, 1 tr iu the fourth stitch of 7 ch; turn. 

Work in this manner as far as 
desired, always catching together 
in the middle the three chains oi 
6 stitches. (Fig. 141.) 

VANDYKE EDGING. 

Make a chain of 14 stitches j 
turn. 

First Bote. — Work 1 sc in the 
fourth stitch from the needle, 4 ch, 
1 sc in the the third stitch from 
the needle, 3 ch, 1 sc in the second 
Fig. 141. from that, 4 ch, 1 sc in the third 

from that, 3 ch, 1 sc in the last stitch of the foundation ; turn. 

Second How. — Work 3 ch, 4 tr in the little loop of 3 ch, 1 ch, 4 tr in the 
next little loop of 3 ch, 1 ch, 2 tr separated by 3 ch in the small loop at the 
end; turn. 

Third How. — Work 3 ch, 1 sc in the first tr, 3 ch, 2 sc separated by 3 ch 
in 1 ch, 4 ch, 2 sc separated by 3 ch in the next 1 ch; turn. 
Kepeat from the second row. 

DOUBLE-CHAIN EDGING. 

Make a chain of 16 stitches; turn. 

First Bote. — Passing over 7 stitches, work 2 sc separated by 6 ch in the 
next stitch, 2 ch, pass over 2 and work 2 sc separated by 6 ch in the next, 2 
ch, pass over 2 and work 2 sc separated by 6 ch in the last stitch; turn. 

Second Row. — Work 6 ch, 1 sc under the middle of the first loop of 6 ch, 
2 ch, 1 sc under the next loop of 6 ch, 2 ch, 1 sc under the next loop of 6 ch, 
5 ch, 1 sc in the end loop; turn. 

Third Row. — Work 3 ch, 7 tr in 5 ch, 3 ch, 2 sc separated by 6 ch in the 
sc of the last row, 2 ch, 2 sc separated by 6 ch ia the next sc, 2 ch, 2 sc sepa- 
rated by 6 ch in the next sc; turn. 

Fourth Roic. — Work 6 ch, 1 sc in the middle of the first loop of 6 ch, 2 
ch, 1 sc in the next loop of 6 ch, 2 ch, 1 sc in the next loop of 6 ch, 5 ch, 1 
sc in the first tr of the former scallop; turn. 

Kepeat the last two rows only. 

CLOVEK-LEAF EDGING. 

Make a chain of 8 stitches; turn. (Fig. 142.) 

First Row. — Work 3 tr in the third stitch from the needle, 2 ch, 3 tr iu 
the next, 3 ch, 1 tr in the last stitch of the foundation; turn. 

Second JiJow.— Work 6 ch, shell iu shell (3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr— m the 2 di of 
the previous row) ; turn. 



186 Home Decorative AYork. 

Third Row. — ^TIN'ork back -with 2 sc on the shell, 3 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, 
1 tr in the fourth stitch ol 6 ch; turn. 

Fourth How. — Work 6 ch, shell in shell ; turn. 

The Leaf. — Work 12 ch, turn, leaving 6 stitches for the stem, fasten in 
the seventh stitch vrith 1 sc, thus makijy^ a ring; turn and make three loops 
around this one as follows — 4 ch, fasten under the ring with 1 sc, 4 ch, fasten 
Tinder the ring with 1 sc, 5 ch, uniting this at the base of the stem with 1 sc; 
turn, put the thread under and work 1 sc and 6 tr in the last loop, now put 




Fig. 142. 
the needle through the lower stitch of the next shell but one, fasten with 1 
«c, work 6 trmore in the same loop, 1 sc; second loop — 1 sc, 12 tr, 1 sc; 
third loop the same. Now work 8 sc on the 6 ch of the stem and 3 sc on the 
«hell. 

Fifth y?oit'.— Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, 1 tr in the fourth stitch of 
6 ch ; turn. 

Eepeat the pattern from the second row, always fastening the second 
lobe of each leaf (in the middle) to the third lol)e of the preceding leaf with 
a close sc, just as the leaf is fastened to the shell. 
NEW WAVE EDGING. 

Make a chain of the desired length; turn. 

First How. — Work 1 dc in each of 8 stitches, 2 ch, pass over 1 stitch, 1 dc 
in each of the next 8 stitches, 2 ch, and repeat to the end. Draw the last 
loop out very long; turn. 

Second Row. — Work five quadruple trebles (put the thread over four 
times, and work off 2 stitches at a time) in 2 ch, keep the top loop of each 
one on the hook and draw the thread through all together, fastening with a 
close sc; then 6 ch, 5 q tr as before in the same 2 ch, draw the thread 
through all the top stitches and fasten with a close sc; then 5 q tr in the 
next 2 ch, fasten as before, 6 ch, 5 q tr in the same loop, and so continue to 
the end ; turn. 



Crochet Work. 



187 



Tldrd Row. — "Work 6 sc over the first half of 6 ch, 3 ch, 1 dc in the first 
Ktitch of the same 3 ch, 6 sc over the remaining half of 6 ch, 1 close sc where 
the two groups of 5 q tr come together, and so proceed with all the scallops 
to the end. 

Tliis is pretty in thread of any size. Worked in two colors of wool it 
makes a beautiful border for afghans, tidies, etc. 

Orochetted Laces. 

DIAMOND-SHELL LACE. 
Make a chain of 37 stitches; turn. (Fig. 143.) 

First Row. — Work 1 sc in the eighth stitch, 5 ch, pass over four stitches of 
the foimdation, 1 sc in the next, pass over two stitches, 8 tr in the next, 1 sc 
in the third stitch from the shell, 5 ch, pass over four, 1 sc in the next stitch, 
6 ch, pass over four, 1 sc in the next stitch, pass over two, 8 tr in the last 
stitch; turn. 

Second Row. — Work 3 ch, 
8 tr in the first tr of the 
shell, fasten close with 1 sc 
in the middle of the shell, 8 
tr in the last tr of the shell, 
iiasten close in the middle 
of the next chain, 5 ch, fasten 
close in the next chain, 5 ch, 
asten in the next, 8 tr in the 
ffist tr of the next shell, 
fasten in the middle of the 
shell, 8 tr in the last tr of the 
shell, fosten in the middle of 
the next chain, 5 ch, fasten 
in the middle of the next 
chain; turn. 

Third ^OM'.— Work 7 ch, 

fasten in the firet chain with 

Fig. 143. 1 sc, 8 tr in the first tr of the 

shell, fasten close in the middle of the shell, 8 ch, fasten close in the middle 
of the next shell, 8 tr in the last tr of the sliell, fasten close in the middle of 
the next chain; 5 ch, fasten in the next chain, 8 tr in the fii-st tr of the shell, 
fasten close in the middle of the sliell, 8 ch, fasten close in the middle of the 
next shell, 8 tr in the last trof the shell, turn. 

Fourth Row. — Work 4 ch, fasten close in the middle of the shell, 8 tr in 
the last tr of the shell, fasten in the middle of 8 ch, 8 tr in the fii-st tr of the 
next shell, fasten in the middle of the shell, 5 ch, fasten in the next cliain, 5 
ch, fasten in the middle of the shell, 8 tr ir the last tr of the shell, fasten in 




188 Home Decorative Work. 

the middle of 8 ch, 8 tr in the first tr of the shell, fasten in the middle of the 
shell, 5 ch, fasten in the next chain; turn. 

Fifth Bow. — Work 7 ch, fasten in the first chain, 5 ch, fasten in the 
middle of the shell, 8 tr in the middle stitch between tlie two shells, fasten 
in the middle of the next shell, 5 ch, fasten in the next chain, 5 ch, fasten in 
the next, 5 ch, fasten in the middle of the shell, 8 tr in the middle stitch be- 
tween the two shells, fasten in the middle of the next shell ; turn. 

Sixth Koic. — Work 4 ch, fasten in the middle of the shell, 5 ch, fasten in 
the next chain, 5 ch, fiisten in the middle of the next chain, 5 ch, fasten in 
the middle of the next chain, 5 ch, fasten in the middle of the shell, 5 ch, 
fasten in the next chain, 5 ch, fasten in the next chain ; turn. 

Seventh Ro%o. — Work 7 ch, fasten in the middle of the first chain, 5 ch, 
fasten in the next chain, 8 tr in the middle of the shell, fasten in the next 
chain, 5 ch, fasten in the next chain, 5 ch, fasten in the next chain, 8 tr in 
the middle stitch of the shell; turn. 

Eepeat from the second row. 

SHELL-POINT LACE. 

Make a chain of 30 stitches; turn. (Fig. 144.) 

First Mow.—SNovk a shell (3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr) in the fifth stitch from the 
needle, pass over the next three stitches of the foundation, 1 tr in each of 
the next four stitches, 6 ch, pass over seven, 1 tr in each of the next four 
stitches, pass over three, work a shell in the next; turn. 

Second Row. — Work 3 ch, work a shell in the 2 ch of the former shell, I 
tr in each of the next four, 3 ch, fasten with 1 sc in the middle of the last 
chain but one and around the last chain, 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next four 
stitches, shell in shell, 1 tr in the top of the first shell ; turn. 

Third Mote. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in each of the next four 
stitches, 7 ch, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches, shell in shell, 3 ch, 3 tr 
in the last chain loop of the previous row. 

Fourth Row. — Work 3 ch, 3 tr in the first hole, 2 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr 
in each of the next four stitches, 6 cli, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches, 
shell in shell, 1 tr in the top of the shell ; turn. 

Fifth Row. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in each of the next four 
Btitches, 3 ch, fasten with 1 sc in the middle of the last two chains as before, 
3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches, shell in shell, 2 ch, 3 tr in the first 
hole, 2 ch, 3 tr in the last hole; turn. 

Sixth Row. — Work 3 ch, 3 tr in the first hole, 2 ch, 3 tr in the next hole, 
2 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches, 7 ch, 1 tr in each of 
the next four stitches; shell in shell, 1 tr in the top of the last shell. 

Seventh Row. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in each of the next four 
stitches, 6 ch, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches, shell m shell, 2 ch, 3 tr 
in the first hole, 2 ch, 3 tr in the next hole, 2 ch, 3 tr in the last hole; turn. 

Eighth Row. — Work 3 ch, 3 tr in the first hole, 2 ch, 3 tr in tlie second 



Crochet Work. 



189 



hole, 2 cli, 3 tr in the third hole, 2 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr iu each of the next 
four stitches, 3 ch, 1 sc iu the middle of the last two chains, 3 cli, 1 tr in 
each of the next four stitches, shell in shell, 1 tr in the top of the shell; turn. 
Ninth R<yw. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in each of the next 4 stitches, 
7 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 stitches, shell in shell, 2 ch, 3 tr in the first 
hole, 2 ch, 3 tr in the second hole, 2 ch, 3 tr iu the third hole, 2 ch, 3 tr in 
the fourtll hole; turn. 

Tenth Boio.— Work 3 ch, 3 
tr in the first hole, 2 ch, 3 tr 
in the second hole, 2 ch, 3 tr 
in the third hole, 2 ch, 3 tr 
in the fourth hole, 2 ch, shell 
in shell, 1 tr in each of the 
next four stitches, 6 ch, 1 tr in 
each of the next four stitches, 
shell in shell, 1 tr in the top 
of the last shell ; turn. 

Eleventh Row. — Work 3 ch, 

shell in shell, 1 tr in each of 

the next four stitches, 3 ch, 1 

sc in the middle of the last two 

chains, 3 ch, 1 tr in each of 

the next four stitches, shell in 

shell, 3 ch, 1 tr in the first 

hole, 3 ch, 1 tr in the second, 

3 ch, 1 tr in the third, 3 ch, 1 

tr in the fourth, 3 ch, 1 tr in 

the fifth or point, 5 ch, 1 tr in 

Fig- 144= the same hole, 3 ch, 1 tr in 

the next hole, 3 ch, 1 tr in the next, 3 ch, 1 tr in the next, 3 ch, 1 tr in the 

next, 3 ch, 1 sc in the first stitch; turn. 

Twelfth i^ow.— Work 3 ch, then 3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr in the second hole, form- 
ing a shell, then work a shell in each hole around the scallop except the last 
next to the row of shells, 2 ch, 1 sc in the last hole, 2 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr 
in each of the next four stitches, 7 ch, 1 tr in each of the next foxir, shell in 
shell, 1 tr in the last stitch; turn. 

Tliirteenth Jioiv. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in each of the next four 
stitches, 6 ch, 1 tr in each of the next four, shell in shell, 3 ch, then a shell in 
each of the previous shells of the scallop, 3 ch, fasten at the end with 1 sc; 
turn. 

Fourteenth Bow. — Work 2 ch, 1 sc iu the 3 ch, 2 ch, * 1 tr in the middle 
of the first shell, 5 ch and fasten with a slip-stitch in the first stitch of this 
chain, 1 tr in the same place, 5 ch and fasten with a slip-stitch in the first 




190 Home Decorative AVork. 

stitch of this chain, repeating this until you have worked 6 tr in the middle 
of the shell mth the picot loops of 5 ch hetween, then 1 sc in the middle of 
the next shell ; now repeat from the star and fill in the third shell like the 
first one before; do the same with all the shells of the scallop around to the 
next to the last one; 1 sc in the middle of this shell (as in the second), ther 6 
tr in the last shell with picot loops of 5 ch between, 2 ch, 1 sc in the middle 
of 3 ch, 2 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches, 3 ch, 1 sc 
in the middle of the two chains, 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next four, 
shell in shell, 1 tr in the top of the former shell; turn. 
This completes one scallop of the pattern. 

KOUND-SHELL-SCALLOP LACE. 

Make a chain of 15 stitches; turn. 

First i?oty.— Work a shell (3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr) in the fourth stitch from the 
needle, 4 ch, 1 tr in the fifth stitch from the shell, 4 ch, work a shell in next 
to the last stitch, 1 tr in the last ; turn. 

Second Row. — ^Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, miss one, and work 1 tr la 
each of the next three stitches, 1 tr in the 1 tr of the former row, 1 tr in each 
of the next three stitches (making a group of 7 tr in all), 1 ch, shell in shell; 
turn. 

Third Bow. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 4 ch, 1 tr in the middle of the 7 
tr of the preceding row, 4 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in 3 ch ; turn. 

Fourth Bote. — Same as the second row. 

Fifth Row — Same as the third row. 

Sixth Bow. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, pass over one, 7 tr (ha^dng 
the middle one always over the 1 tr of the previous row), 1 ch, shell in shell, 
5 ch, fasten with a slip-stitch in the 3 ch between the two preceding shells; 
turn. 

Seventh Bow. — Work 18 tr in 5 ch, shell in shell, 4 ch, 1 tr iu the middle 
one of 7 tr, 4 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in 3 ch ; turn. 

Eighth Bow. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, 7 tr as before, 1 ch, shell 
in shell, then work * 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr * in every other stitch around the 
scallop, repeating the part enclosed by the stars nine times in all, fasten with 
a slip-stitch in the 3 ch between the shells; turn. 

Ninth Bow. — Work * 2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr * in every 2 ch around the scallop, 
shell in shell, 4 ch, 1 tr in the middle of 7 tr, 4 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in 3 
ch; turn. 

Tenth Row. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, 7 tr, 1 ch, shell in shell, 
then work * 3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr * in every 2 ch around the scallop, fasten with a 
slip-stit(;h in the 3 ch between the shells; turn. 

Eleventh Bow. — Work back in the same manner, putting * 3 tr, 2 ch, 3 
tr * in every 2 ch around the scallop, then shell in shell, 4 ch, 1 tr in the 
middle of 7 tr, 4 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in 3 ch; turn. 

Twelfth Bow. — Work :5 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, 7 tr, 1 ch, shell in shell, 



Crochet Work. 19 1 

* 3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr * iu the first two shells of the scallop, then * 4 tr, 2 ch, 
4 tr * in the next five shells, and fasten with 1 tr in the middle of the next; 
turn. 

Thirteenlh Roio. — Work * 4 tr, 2 ch, 4 tr* in five shells, and * 3 tr, 2 ch, 

3 tr * in the last two shells of the scaUop, then shell in shell, 4 ch, 1 tr in 
the middle of 7 tr, 4 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in 3 ch; turn. 

This completes the pattern. Now work seven rows back and forth, then 
make the 5 ch for the central point of the next scallop. As the eleventh 
row is worked in each, fasten the two top shells of the scallop to the corre- 
sjwnding shells of the preceding scallop. 

POINTED CURTAIN LACE. 

Make a chain of 22 stitches; turn. 

First Bote. — Work a shell (3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr) in the fifth stitch from the 
needle, 4 ch, pass over four stitches of the foundation, 1 tr in the next, 2 ch, 
1 tr in the next, 3 ch, pass over two stitches, 1 tr in the next, 2 ch, 1 tr in 
the next, 3 ch, pass over two, 1 tr in the next, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last; turn. 

Second Bow. — Work 3 ch, 6 tr in the last 2 ch of the previous row, 6 tr 
in the next 2 ch (passing over 3 ch), 6 tr in the next 2 ch (jjassing over 3 ch), 

4 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr under the chain at the end of the last shell; turn. 

Third Bow. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 4 ch, 1 tr under the further end 
of 4 ch of the previous row, 2 ch, 1 tr in the top of the first of 6 tr, 3 ch, 1 tr 
between the second and third of 6 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr between the fourth and fifth 
of 6 tr, * 3 ch, 1 tr between the two groups of 6 tr of the previous row, 2 ch, 
1 tr in the middle of 6 tr, * repeat from star to star once more; turn. 

Fourth BoiD. — Work 3 ch, then groups of 6 tr in every 2 ch (without 
anything between them), passing over the 3 ch's, then 4 ch, shell in shell, 1 
tr under the chain at the top of the former shell ; turn. 

Fifth Bow. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 4 ch, 1 tr under the further end 
of 4 ch of the previous row, 2 ch, 1 tr in the first of 6 tr, 3 ch, 1 tr between 
the second and third, 2 ch, 1 tr between the fourth and fifth, then * 3 ch, 1 
tr between the two groups of 6 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the middle of 6 tr, * repeat 
from star to star twice more ; turn. 

Sixth Row. — Work like the second row, only there will be five groups of 
6 tr in the lower part of the lace, 4 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr under the 3 ch at 
the top of the last shell. 

Seventh Bow. — Work like the fifth, only there will be one more * 3 ch, 
1 tr between the groups of 6 tr, 2 ch; 1 tr in the middle of 6 tr. * 

Eighth Bow. — Like the fourth row, only there will be six groups of 6 tr 
in the lower part of the lace, then 4 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in the 3 ch at the 
top of the last shell ; turn. 

Ninth Bow. — Like the fifth, only there will be two more * 3 ch, 1 tr be- 
tween the two groups of fi tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the middle of 6 tr *; turn. 

Tenth Bow. — :Like the fourth, only there will be seven groups of 6 tr iu 



192 Home Decorative Work. 

the lower part of the lace, then 4 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr under the 3 ch at the 
top of the last scallop. 

Eleventh Mow. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 4 ch, 1 tr under the further 
end of 4 ch of the previous row, 2 ch, 1 tr in the top of the first of 6 tr, 3 ch, 
1 tr between the second and third of 6 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr between the fourth and 
fifth of the same 6 tr, 3 ch, 1 tr between the two groups of 6 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in 
the middle of 6 tr (dropping off five groups of 6 tr); turn. 

Twelfth Bow. — Like the second; repeat from this point. It is easily- 
seen how this lace can be made narrower. It can also be made of any width 
preferred, by widening as usual just below the 4 ch, and making a deeper 
point before dropping off" from the length of the row. 
SPIDER-WEB INSERTION. 

Make a chain of 54 stitches; turn. (Fig. 145.) 

First Bow. — Work 1 tr in both the fourth and fifth stitches from the 
needle, 2 ch, pass over two stitches of the foundation, 1 tr in each of the next 
four stitches, 6 ch, pass over five, 1 sc in each of the next five, 6 ch, pass over 
five, 1 tr in each of the next four, 6 ch, pass over five, 1 sc in each of the next 
five, 6 ch, pass over five, 1 tr in each of the next four, 2 ch, pass over two, 1 
tr in each of the last three ; turn. 

Second Bow. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, 2 ch, 1 tr 
in the first of 4 tr, 2 ch, 4 tr under the nearest end of the 6 ch of the last row, 
5 ch, 3 sc in the middle of the 5 sc of the last row, 5 ch, 4 tr under the last 
end of the next 6 ch, 2 ch, 4 tr under the nearest end of the next 6 ch, 5 ch, 
3 sc in the middle of the 5 sc of the last row, 5 ch, 4 tr under the last end of 
the next 6 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last of the 4 tr of the preceding row, 2 ch, 1 
tr in each of the last three stitches; turn. 

Third Bow. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, 2 ch, 1 tr 
in 1 tr of the previous row, 2 ch, 1 tr in the first of 4 tr, 2 ch, 4 tr under the 
nearest end of the 5 ch, 5 ch, 1 long tr in the middle of the 3 sc of the pre- 
vious row, 5 ch, 4 tr xinder the further end of the next 5 ch, 5 ch, 1 long tr 
under the 2 ch of the last row, 5 ch, 4 tr under the nearest end of the next 5 
ch 5 ch, 1 long tr in the middle of the 3 sc of the former row, 5 ch, 4 tr 
under the further €ud of the next 5 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last of 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 
tr in 1 tr of the former row, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the last three stitches; 
turn. 

Fourth Bow. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, 2ch, 1 tr 
in the next 1 tr of the preceding row, 2 ch, 1 tr in the next 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in 
the first of 4 tr, 2 ch, 4 tr under 5 ch, 2 ch, 4 tr under the next 5 ch, 5 ch, 3 
sc (one on each side and one in the top of the long tr of the preceding row), 
5 ch, 4 tr under the next 5 ch, 2 ch, 4 tr Tinder the next 5 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in 
the last of 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in 1 tr of the preceding row, 2 ch, 1 tr in 1 tr of 
the preceding row, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the last three stitches; turn. 

Fifth Bow. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, * 2 ch, 1 tr 



Crochet Work. 



193 



in 1 tr of the preceding row * three times, 2 ch, 1 tr in the first of 4 tr, 2 ch, 
4 tr in 2 ch, 6 ch, 5 so (one on each side and three in the middle of 3 sc), 6 
■ch, 4 tr in 2 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last of 4 tr, * 2 ch, 1 tr in 1 tr of the pre- 
ceding row * three times, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the last three stitches; turn. 



i^iWiigiM^lftt^i 












Fig. 145. 

Sixth Bow. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, * 2 ch, 1 
tr in 1 tr of the preceding row * three times, 2 ch, 4 tr in the next 2 ch, 2 ch, 

4 tr under the nearest end of 6 ch, 5 ch, 3 sc in the middle of 5 sc, 5 ch, 4 tr 
under the further end of the next 6 ch, 2 ch, 4 tr in the next 2 ch, * 2 ch, 1 
tr in the next 1 tr of the preceding row * three times, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of 
the last 3 stitches; turn. 

Seventh Bow. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 2 stitches, * 2 ch, 1 tr 
in 1 tr of the preceding row * twice, 2 ch, 4 tr in the 2 ch next to the 4 tr, 
6 ch, 1 long tr under 2 ch, 5 ch, 4 tr under the nearest end of the next 5 ch, 

5 ch, 1 long tr in the middle of 3 sc, 5 ch, 4 tr under the further end of the 
next 5 ch, 5 ch, 1 long tr under next 2 ch of the preceding row, 5 ch, 4 tr in 

13 



104 Home Decorative Work. 

the next 2 ch, * 2 ch, 1 tr in 1 tr of the preceding row * twice, 2 ch, 1 tr in 
each of the last three stitches; turn. 

Eighth Row. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, 2 ch, 1 tr 
in 1 tr of the preceding row, 2 ch, 4 tr in 2 ch next to 4 tr, 5 ch, 3 sc (one on 
each side and one in the long tr of the preceding row), 5 ch, 4 tr under 6 ch, 
2 ch, 4 tr under the next 5 ch, 5 ch, 3 sc (one on each side and one in the 
long tr of the preceding row), 5 ch, 4 tr in the next 2 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in 1 tr of 
the preceding row, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the last three stitches; turn. 

Ninth Row. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, 2 ch, 4 tr 
in the 2 ch next to 4 tr, 6 ch, 5 sc (one on each side and three in the middle 
of 3 sc), 6 ch, 4 tr under 2 ch, 6 ch, 5 sc (one on each side and three in the 
middle of 3 sc), 6 ch, 4 tr in the next 2 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the last three 
stitches; turn. 

Tenth Row. — Like the second ; repeat from this point. 

SPIDER-WEB LACE. 

Make a chain of 49 stitches; turn. 

First Row. — Work 1 tr in the fourth and fifth stitches from the needle, 2 
ch, pass over two, 1 tr in each of the next four, 7 ch, pass over five stitches of 
the foundation, 1 sc in each of the next five, 7 ch, pass over five, 1 tr in each 
of the next four, 7 ch, pass over five, 1 sc in each of the next five, 7 ch, pass 
over five, 1 tr in each of the last four, 6 ch; turn. 

Second Roto. — Pass over four stitches, and work 4 tr in the last two 
stitches of 6 ch, 2 ch, 4 tr under the nearest end of 7 ch, 5 ch, 3 sc in the 
middle of 5 sc, 5 ch, 4 tr under the further end of the next 7 ch, 2 ch, 4 tr 
under the nearest end of the next 7 ch, 5 ch, 3 sc in the middle of 5 sc, 5 ch, 
4 tr under the further end of the last 7 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last stitch of the 
4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the last three stitches; turn. 

Third Row. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, 2 ch, 1 tr 
in 1 tr of the previous row, 2 ch, 1 tr in the first of 4 tr, 2 ch, 4 tr under the 
nearest end of 5 ch, 3 ch, 1 long tr in the middle of 3 sc, 3 ch, 4 tr under the 
further end of 5 ch, 3 ch, 1 long tr under 2 ch of the last row, 3 ch, 4 tr 
under the nearest part of 5 ch, 3 ch, 1 long tr in the middle of 3 sc, 3 ch, 4 tr 
under the further part of 5 ch, 3 ch, 1 long tr under 2 ch of the last row, 3 
ch, 4 tr in the last loop of the former row, 6 ch ; turn. 

Fourth Row.- — Pass over four stitches and work 4 tr in the last two 
stitches of 6 ch, 5 ch, 3 sc (one on each side and one in the long tr of the pre- 
vious row), 5 ch, 4 tr under 3 ch, 2 ch, 4 tr under 3 ch, 5 ch, 3 sc (one on each 
side and one in the long tr of the previous row), 5 ch, 4 tr under 3 ch, 2 ch, 4 
tr under 3 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last of 4 tr, * 2 ch, 1 tr in 1 tr * twice, 2 ch, 1 
tr in each of the last three stitches ; turn. 

Fifth Row. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, * 2 ch, 1 
tr in 1 tr of the preceding row * three times, 2 ch, 1 tr in the first of 4 tr, 2 
ch, 4 tr in 2 ch, 7 ch, 5 sc (one on each side and three in the middle of 3 sc), 



Crochet Work. 195 

7 ch, 4 tr in 2 ch, 7 ch, 5 sc (one on each side and three in the middle of 3 
sc), 7 ch, 4 tr in the last loop, 6 ch; turn. 

Sixth Row. — Pass over four and work 4 tr in the last two stitches of 6 
ch, 2 ch, 4 tr nnder the nearest end of 7 ch, 5 ch, 3sc (in the middle of 5 sc), 
5 ch, 4 tr under the further end of the next 7 ch, 2 ch, 4 tr under the nearest 
end of the next 7 ch, 5 ch, 3 sc (in the middle of 5 sc), 5 ch, 4 tr under the 
further end of 7 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last of 4 tr, *2 ch, 1 tr in 1 tr * four 
times, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the last three stitches; turn. 

Seventh Row. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, * 2 ch, 1 
trin 1 tr* five times, 2 ch, 1 trin the first of 4 tr, 2ch, 4 tr under the nearest 
entl of 5 ch, 3 ch, 1 long tr in the middle of 3 sc, 3 ch, 4 tr under the further 
end of the next 5 ch, 3 ch, 1 long tr under 2 ch, 3 ch, 4 tr nnder the nearest 
end of the next 5 ch, 3 ch, 1 long tr in the middle of 3 sc, 3 ch, 4 tr under 
the further end of the next 5 ch, 3 ch, 1 longtr under 2 ch, 3 ch, 4 tr in the 
last loop, 6 ch; turn. 

Eighth Row. — Pass over four stitches, work 4 tr in the next two stitches 
of 6 ch, 5 ch, 3 sc (one on each side and one in the long tr), 5 ch, 4 tr under 
3 ch, 2 ch, 4 tr under 3 ch, 5 ch, 3 sc (one on each side and one in the long 
tr), 5 ch, 4 tr under 3 ch, 2 ch, 4 tr under 3 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last of 4 tr, 

* 2 ch, 1 tr in 1 tr * six times, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the last three stitches; 
turn. 

NintJi Row. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, * 2 ch, 1 
tr in 1 tr * seven times, 2 ch, 1 tr in the first of 4 tr, 2 ch, 4 tr in 2 ch, 7 ch, 
5 sc (one on each side and three in the middle of 3 sc), 7 ch, 4 tr in 2 ch, 7 
ch, 5 sc (one on each side and three in the middle of 3 sc), 7 ch, 4 tr in the 
last loop; turn. 

I'enth Row. — Work 3 ch, 4 tr under the nearest end of 7 ch, 5 ch, 3 sc in 
the middle of 5 sc, 5 ch, 4 tr under the further end of the next 7 ch, 2 ch, 4 
tr under the nearest end of the next 7 ch, 5 ch, 3 sc in the middle of 5 sc, 5 
ch, 4 tr under the further end of the next 7 ch, 2 ch, 4 tr in the next 2 ch, 

* 2 ch, 1 tr in 1 tr * seven times, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the last three 
stitches; turn. 

Eleventh Rote. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, * 2 ch, 1 
tr in 1 tr * six times, 2 ch, 4 tr under the 2 ch next to the 4 tr, 3 ch, 1 long 
tr under 2 ch, 3 ch, 4 tr under the nearest end of 5 ch, 3 ch, 1 long tr in the 
middle of 3 sc, 3 ch, 4 tr under the further end of 5 ch, 3 ch, 1 long tr nnder 

2 ch, 3 ch, 4 tr under the nearest end of 5 ch, 3 ch, 1 long tr in the middle of 

3 sc, 3 ch, 4 tr under the further end of 5 ch ; turn. 

Twelfth i?ou'.— Work 3 ch, 4 tr under 3 ch, 2 ch, 4 tr under the next 3 
ch, 5 ch, 3 sc (one on each side and one in the long tr), 5 ch, 4 tr under the 
next 3 ch, 2 ch, 4 tr under the next 3 ch, 5 ch, 3 sc (one each side and one 
in the long tr), 5 tr, 4 tr in the next 2 ch, * 2 ch, 1 tr in 1 tr * five times, 2 
ch, 1 tr in each of the last three stitches; turn. 



196 Home Decorative Work. 

Thirteenth Row. — Work 3 ch, 1 trin each of the next two stitches, * 2ch, 
1 tr in 1 tr * four times, 2 ch, 4 tr under the 2 ch next to the 4 tr, 7 ch, 5 so 
over 3 sc, 7 ch, 4 tr under 2 ch, 7 ch, 5 sc over 3 sc, 7 ch, 4 tr under 2 ch; 
turn. 

Fourteenth i?o?i;.— Work 3 ch, 4 tr under the nearest end of 7 ch, 5 ch, 3 
sc in the middle of 5 sc, 5 ch, 4 tr under the further end of the next 7 ch, 2 
ch, 4 tr under the nearest end of the next 7 ch, 5 ch, 3 sc in the middle of 5 
sc, 5 ch, 4 tr under the further end of the next 7 ch, 2 ch, 4 tr under the 
next 2 ch, * 2 ch, 1 tr in 1 tr * three times, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the last three 
stitches; turn. 

Fifteenth Row. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, * 2 ch, 
1 tr in 1 tr * twice, 2 ch, 4 tr under the 2 ch next to the 4 tr, 3 ch, 1 long tr 
under 2 ch, 3 ch, 4 tr under the nearest end of 5 ch, 3 ch, 1 long tr in the 
middle of 3 sc, 3 ch, 4 tr under the further end of the next 5 ch, 3 ch, 1 long 
tr under 2 ch, 3 ch, 4 tr under the nearest end of the next 5 ch, 3 ch, 1 long 
tr in the middle of 3 sc, 3 ch, 4 tr under the further end of the next 5 ch; 
turn. 

Sixteenth Row. — Work 3 ch, 4 tr in 3 ch, 2 ch, 4 tr in the next 3 ch, 5 ch, 

3 sc over the long tr, 5 ch, 4 tr under 3 ch, 2 ch, 4 tr under the next 3 ch, 5 
ch, 3 sc over the long tr, 5 ch, 4 tr under the next 2 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in 1 tr, 2 
ch, 1 tr in each of the last three stitches; turn. 

Seventeenth Row. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, 2ch, 

4 tr under the 2 ch next to the 4 tr, 7 ch, 5 sc over 3 sc, 7 ch, 4 tr under 2 
ch, 7 ch, 5 sc over 3 sc, 7 ch, 4 tr under 2 ch, 6 ch; turn. 

Repeat Irom the second row. When the piece of lace is completed, cro- 
chet any pretty kind of scallop around the large Vandykes at the bottom, 
first joining the points of .the 4 tr's with loops of 3 ch. The finish given to 
the "shell-point lace " would be very pretty to finish this with. 

If an edging with small points is desired, one can be made to exactly 
match the foregoing insertion, by beginning the ' ' dropping oif ' ' process at 
the end of the first "spider's web " on the lower edge, instead of forming 
another one below it — as in this lace — in other words, by simply leaving off 
the lower edge of the insertion. In depth it may have just one of the 
" webs " or as many as desired. 

This pattern is also utilized, in a general way, to form yokes for chil- 
dren's summer dresses and latiies' nightdresses. 

OPEN-SQUAKE LACE, 

Make a chain of 35 stitches; turn. (Fig. 146.) 

First Row. — Fasten the thread in the fifth stitch from the foundation 
with a single crochet stitch, 5 ch, fasten with 1 sc in the fifth stitch from the 
last, 5 ch, fasten with 1 sc in the next fifth stitch, and so on across; turn. 

Second Row. — ^Work 3 ch, 12 tr in the first loop of 5 ch, fasten the last to 



Crochet Work. 



197 



the middle of the next loop with 1 sc, 5 th, 1 sc in the middle of the next 
loop, and so on across the row; turn. 

Tliird Row. — * Work 5 eh, 1 sc in the middle of the first loop * five 
times, 5 ch, 1 sc in the second of the 12 tr, 5 ch, 1 sc in the fifth of the 12 tr, 
5 ch, 1 sc in the seventh of the 12 tr; turn. 

Fourth L'ow. — Work 3 ch, 12 tr in the first loop, fasten with 1 sc in the 
middle of the next loop, 5 ch, 1 sc in the middle of the next loop, 7 tr in the 

next; fasten with 1 sc in the 
middle of the next loop, 5 ch, 
1 sc in the middle of the next, 
and so on to the end of the 
row; turn. 

Fifth Roto.—* Work 5 ch, 1 
sc in the middle of the next 
loop * three times, 7 tr in the 
first of the 7 tr of the previous 
row, fasten with 1 sc in the 
fourth (or middle) of the 
same, 7 tr in the last tr of the 
same, fasten with 1 sc in the 
middle of the next loop, 5 ch, 
1 sc in the second stitch of the 
12 tr of the previous row, 5 
ch, 1 sc in the fifth stitch of 
the same, 5 ch, 1 sc in the 
seventh stitch of the same; 
Fig 146. turn. 

Sixth Row. — Work 3 ch, 12 tr in the first loop, fasten with 1 sc in the 
middle of the next loop, 5 ch, 1 sc in the middle of the next, 7 tr in the first 
tr of the preceding row, fasten with 1 sc in the middle (or fourth) stitch of 
the same, 5 ch, 1 sc in the middle of the next shell, 7 tr in the last stitch of 
the same, fasten with 1 sc in the middle of the next loop, 5 ch, 1 sc in the 
next, and so on to the end of the row ; turn. 

Seventh Row. — Work 5 ch, 1 sc in the first loop, 5 ch, 1 sc in the middle 
of the next loop, 7 tr in the first stitch of the shell, fasten with 1 sc in the 
middle (or fourth) stitch of the same, 5 ch, 1 sc in the middle of the next 
loop, 5 ch, 1 sc in the middle of the next loop, 5 ch, 1 sc in the middle (or 
fourth) stitch of the next shell, 7 tr in the last stitch of the same, fasten with 
1 sc in the middle of the next loop, 5 ch, 1 sc in the second stitch of the end 
shell, 5 ch, 1 sc in the seventh stitch of the same; turn. 

Eighth 7^w.— Work 3 ch, 12 tr in the first loop, fasten with 1 sc in the 
middle of the next loop, 5 ch, 1 sc in the middle of the next shell, 7 tr in 
the seventh stitch of the same, fa.sten with 1 sc in the middle of the next 




198 Home Decokative Work. 

loop, 5 ch, 1 sc in the middle of the next loop, 7 tr in the first stitch of the 
next shell, fasten with 1 sc in the middle of the next shell, 5 ch, 1 sc in the 
middle of the next loop, and so on to the end of the row; turn. 

Ninth Bow. — ^Work 5 ch, 1 sc in the middle of the first loop, 5 ch, 1 sc 
in the next, 5 ch, 1 sc in the middle of the first shell, 7 tr in the seventh 
stitch of the same, fasten with 1 sc in the middle of the next loop, 7 tr in the 
first stitch of the next shell, fasten with 1 sc in the middle of the same, 5 ch, 
1 sc in the middle of the next loop, 5 ch, 1 sc in the second stitch of the last 
shell; turn. 

Tenth Row. — Work H ch, 12 tr in the first loop, fasten with 1 sc in the 
middle of the next loop, 5 ch, 1 sc in the middle of the next shell, 7 tr be- 
tween the two shells, fasten with 1 sc in the middle of the last shell, 5 ch, 1 
sc in the middle of the next loop, and so on to the end of the row; turn. 

Eleventh Bow. — * Work 5 ch, 1 sc in the first loop * three times, 5 ch, 1 
sc in the second stitch of the first shell, 5 ch, 1 sc in the fifth stitch of the 
same, 5 ch, 1 sc in the next loop, 5 ch, 1 sc in the second stitch of the last 
shell; turn. 

Twelfth Boiv. — Work 3 ch, 12 tr in the first loop, fasten with 1 sc in the 
next loop, 5 ch, 1 sc in the next, and so on to the end of the row ; turn. 

Thirteenth Boiv. — * Work 5 ch, 1 sc in the first loop * five times, 5 ch, 1 
sc in the second stitch of the shell, 5 ch, 1 sc in the fifth stitch of the same, 5 
ch, 1 sc in the seventh stitch of the same; turn. 

Eepeat from the fourth row. 

PICOT-SHELL LACE. 

Make a chain of 20 stitches; turn. 

First Bow. — Make a ring of the last five stitches by joining the last to the 
sixth from the needle with 1 sc, then work a shell (3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr) in the 
third .stitch above the joining, 2 ch, fasten with 1 sc around the foundation 
chain opposite, 2 ch, work another shell in the'^next third stitch of the foun- 
dation, 1 ch, fasten with 1 tr in the last stitch of the foundation; turn. 

Second Bow. — Work 2 ch, shell in shell, 4 ch, shell in shell, 10 tr in the 
circle of five (formed by the foundation chain at first) ; turn. 

TJiird Row. — Work 1 tr on the first stitch of the scallop, 3 ch, fa.sten 
with 1 sc in the top of the same tr, 1 tr on the second stitch, 3 ch, fasten in 
the top of the same tr with 1 sc, and so continue until ten picots are formed 
which completes the scallop, then shell in shell, 2 ch, fasten with 1 sc in the 
middle of the opposite cliaiu, 2 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, fasten with 1 tr 
around the chain at the top of the previous row; turn. 

Fourth Row. — Work 2 ch, shell in shell, 4 ch, shell in shell, 5 ch; turn. 

Fifth Bow. — Shell in shell, 2 ch, fasten with 1 sc in the middle of the 
former chain, 2 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, fasten with 1 sc around the chain at 
the top. 



Crochet Woek. 



199 



Repeat from the second row. Join each succeeding scallop to the one 
before. 

SIXGLE-FAN LACE. 

Make a chain of 24 stitches; turn. 

First L'oiv. — Work a shell (3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr) in the fourth stitch, 4 ch, 1 tr 
in the tenth stitch from the first shell, 3 ch, 1 tr in the same stitch, 4 ch, 
work a shell in the last stitch of the chain; turn. 

Second Row. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, 8 tr in the middle loop of 
3 ch, 3 ch, shell in shell, 5 ch; turn. 

Third Row. — Shell in shell, 2 ch, 1 tr between each of the eight trebles 




Fig. 147. 
of the former row with 1 ch between, 2 ch, shell in shell ; turn. 

Fourth Row. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 3 tr between the trebles of the 
*'fe,n," shell in shell, 8 tr with 1 ch between in the loop of 5 ch at the end 
of the second row, fasten with 1 sc at the end of the first row; turn. 

Fifth Row. — ^Work * 1 tr, 3 ch, 1 sc * between all the trebles of the scal- 
lop, 2 ch, shell in shell, 4 ch, 1 tr in the middle of the "fan," 3 ch, 1 tr in 
the same place, 4 ch, shell in shell; turn. 

Eepeat from the second row. 

SHELL-AND-FAN LACE. 

Make a chain of 21 stitches; turn. 

First Rmo. — Work 1 tr in the fourth stitch from the needle, 1 tr in the 
next, 2 ch, pass over two, work a small shell (2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr) in the next, 3 
c-h, pass over four stitches, 4 tr all separated by 1 (;h in the next, 3 ch, pass 
over four stitches, work a small shell in the next, 2 ch. 1 tr in the last stitch 
of the foundation ; turn. 

Second Row. — Work 5 ch, small shell in shell, 3 ch, fasten with a slip- 
stitch in the first of the 4 tr, 3 tr between the first and second of these trebles, 



200 Home Decorative Work. 

* 2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr * between the next two, 3 tr between the last two, fasten 
"with a slip-stitch in the top of the last one of these same four trebles, 3 ch, 
work a small shell in shell, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the last three stitches; turn. 

Tliird Row. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, 2 ch, work 
a small shell in shell (always the same kind in this place), 3 ch, 4 tr under 
the middle loop of the "fan " all separated by 1 ch, 3 ch, work a small shell 
in shell (always the same kind in this place), 2 ch, 1 tr in the third stitch of 
the 5 ch of the previous row; turn. 

Fourth fioic^WorVi 5 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, fasten with a slip-stitch 
in the first of the group of 4 tr, 3 tr between the first and second of the same 
group, then * 2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr * between the second and third, 3 tr between 
the third and fourth, fasten with a slip-stitch in the top of the last of this 
same group of 4 tr, 3 ch, shell in shell, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the last three 
stitches; turn. 

Fifth Mow. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, 2 ch, shell 
in shell, 3 ch, 4 tr in the middle of the last " fan " with 1 ch between, 3 ch, 
shell in shell, 2 ch, 1 tr in the third stitch of the 5 ch at the end of the pre- 
ceding row, then 5 ch, and fasten with a slip-stitch in the top of the last 
treble of the third row ; turn. 

Sixth Row, — Work 11 tr in this 5 ch, 1 tr in the top of the 1 tr at the 
end of the last row, 2 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, fasten with a slip-stitch in the 
first of the 4 tr, fill in the top of the " fan " with trebles separated by a 2 ch 
in the middle as before, 3 ch, shell in shell, 2 ch ; 1 tr in each of the last three 
stitches; turn. 

Seventh Roto. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, 2 ch, 
shell in shell, 3 ch, 4 tr separated by 1 ch in the middle of the last "fan," 3 
ch, shelliu shell, 2 ch, then 12 tr all separated by 1 ch in the trebles of the 
scallop, fasten with a slip-stitch at the end of the second row; turn. 

Eighth Roiv. — Work 4 ch, 1 tr in the first hole of the scallop, 2 ch, 1 tr 
in the next hole, 2 ch, 1 tr in the next, and so on around the scallop, fasten- 
ing with 1 tr in the stitch just above the scallop, 2 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, 
fill in the " fan " as before, 3 ch, shell in shell, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the last 
three stitches. 

Ninth Row. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next two stitches, 2 ch, shell 
in shell, 3 ch, 4 tr separated by 1 ch in the top of the preceding " fan," 3 ch, 
shell in shell, 2 ch, then work a small shell (2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr) in every other 
hole around the scallop, 3 ch, fasten with a slip-stitch in the end of the foun- 
dation row ; turn. 

TentJi Row. — Now in the middle of every shell around the scallop, work 
all between the stars: * 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr, * fastening with 
a slip-stitda between each two shells, and the last to the end of the ninth 
row, then 5 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, fill in the " fan " with trebles as before, 
3 ch, shell tn shell, 2 ch,^l tr in each of the last three stitches; turn. 



Crochet Work. 



201 



This completes one large scallop. Repeat the pattern as far as desired, 
fastening the second and all succeeding scallops to the one before where they 
come together. 

BUTTERFLY LACE. 

Make a chain of 53 stitches; turn. 

First Row. — "Work a shell (3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr) in the fourth stitch from the 
hook, make a spider-web stitch (draw the stitch that is on the hook out until 
it is a quarter of an inch long, then pull the thiead through, put the hook 




Fig. 148. 
bettfeen the stitch that was pulled out and the single thread tliat was drawn 
through and pull the free thread through between the tAvo, making two 
stitches on the hook; have these stitches short; then pull the thread through 
both at a time, forming a knot), now catch into the fifth stitch from the 
shell and fasten with 1 sc, make another spider-web stitch, work a shell in 



202 Ho:me Decorative Work. 

the next fifth stitch, 11 ch, 1 tr in the next tenth stitch from the shell, 9 ch, 
1 tr in the ninth stitch from that, 11 ch, work a shell in the next tenth 
stitch, make a spider-web stitch, fasten into the next fifth stitch with 1 sc, 
make another spider-web stitch, work a shell in the fifth (or last) stitch from 
that; tnrn. 

Second Row. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, make two spider-web stitches 
{one after the other), shell in shell, 12 ch, 1 tr in 1 tr of the last row, 7 ch, 
1 tr in 1 tr of the last row, 12 ch, shell in shell, two spider-web stitches, 
shell in shell, 1 tr under 3 ch of the last row ; turn. 

Third Row. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, one spider-web stitch, fasten with 
1 sc in the knot between the spider-web stitches of the last row, make an- 
other spider-web stitch, shell in shell, 13 ch, 1 tr in 1 tr of the last row, 5 ch, 
1 tr in 1 tr of the last row, 13 ch, shell in shell, one spider-web stitch, fasten 
with 1 sc between the two spider-web stitches of the last row, make an- 
other spider-web stitch (always fasten the spider-web stitches of every two 
succeeding rows together in this way), shell in shell ; turn. 

Fourth Row. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, two spider-web stitches (one 
{ifter the other always), shell in shell, 2 ch, pass over two stitches of the 
former chain, 1 tr in each of the next six stitches, 1 sc in the next stitch, 5 
<>h, 1 tr in 1 tr of the last row, 3 ch, 1 tr in the next 1 tr, 5 ch, 1 sc in the 
fifth stitch of the former chain, 1 tr in each of the next six stitches, 2 ch, 
shell in shell, two spider-web stitches, shell in shell, 1 tr under the 3 ch of 
the last row ; turn. 

Fifth Row. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, two spider-web stitches, shell in 
shell, 3 ch, 8 tr commencing in the second treble of the last row, 1 sc in the 
next stitch, 3 ch, 3 tr in the 3 ch between the two trebles of the last row, 3 
«h, 1 sc in the third stitch from the treble, 8 tr, 3 ch, shell in shell, two 
spider-web stitches, shell in shell; turn. 

Sixth Row. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, two spider-web stitches, shell in 
shell, 4 ch, 25 tr commencing in the second treble of the last row, 4 ch, shell 
in shell, 2 spider-web stitches, shell in shell; 1 tr in 3 ch; turn. 

Seventh Roui. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, two spider-web stitches, shell 
in shell, 6 ch, 21 tr commencing in the third treble of the last row, 6 ch, 
shell in shell, two spider-web stitches, shell in shell, 5 ch, fasten with 1 sc 
in 3 ch between the fifth and sixth rows, then 2 ch, and fasten between the 
fourth and fifth rows; turn. 

Eighth Ro%c. — Work * 2 ch, 1 tr * under the 5 ch four times, 2 ch, shell 
in shell, two spider-web stitches, shell in shell, 6 ch, 8 tr commencing in the 
first treble of the last row, 1 ch, pass over one stitch, 1 tr in each of the next 
three stitches, 1 ch, pass over one stitch, 1 tr in each of the next 8 tr, 6 ch, 
.shell in shell, two spider-web stitches, shell in shell, 1 tr imder 3 ch; turn. 

Ninth Row. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, two spider-web stitches, shell in 
shell, 6 ch, 1 tr in each of the 8 tr of the last roAv, 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the 



Crochet Work. 203 

next S tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 8 tr, 6 eh, shell in shell, two spider- 
web stitches, shell in shell, 1 tr in the first 1 tr of the scallop, 4 ch, 1 tr in 
the next 1 tr of the scallop, 4 ch, and so on around, ending with a 4 ch, and 
fastening to a shell, 2 ch, fasten with a slip-stitch between the second and 
third rows; turn. 

Tenth Row. — Work 6 ch, 1 tr in the first 1 tr of the scallop, 6 ch, 1 tr iu 
the next 1 tr, and so on around the scallop, ending with a 6 ch, then shell iu 
shell, two spider-web stitches, shell in shell, 7 ch, 7 tr commencing in the 
second treble of the last row, 2 ch, 1 tr in the middle tr, 2 ch, 7 tr in the 
fii-st 7 tr, 7 ch, shell in shell, two spider-web stitches, shell in shell, 1 tr in 3 
<h; turn. 

Elevenlh How. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, two spider-web stitches, shell 
iu shell, 8 ch, 5 tr commencing in the second treble, 7 ch, 5 tr commencing 
in the second treble, 8 ch, shell in shell, two spider-web stitches, shell in 
shell, 8 ch, 1 tr in the first 1 tr of the scallop, 8 ch, 1 tr in the next 1 tr and 
so on all around, ending with 8 ch and fastening in the last stitch of the 
ibundation chain; turn. 

Twelfth Row. — Work * 1 so, 6 tr, 3 picots (5 ch, 1 sc in the first stitch of 
*he same makes one), 6 tr, 1 sc * in each 8 ch of the scallop, then shell iu 
shell, two spider-web stitches, shell in shell, 10 ch, 1 tr in the third treble, 
21 eh, 1 tr in the third treble, 10 ch, shell in shell, two spider-web stitches, 
shell in shell, 1 tr in 3 ch; turn. 

This completes the pattern once. Join the second scallop to the first bj' 
t'iic middle picots of the first and last small scallops. This is very handsome 
made of No. 40 thread. 

PINEAPPLE LACE. 

Make a chain of six stitches; turn. 

First Row. — Work 3 tr iu the fifth stitch, 2 ch, 3 tr in same stitch, 1 tr 
in last stitch of chain ; turn. 

Second i?ow.— Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in loop at the end of first 
tow; turn. 

Third Row. — Work 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in loop at the end of second 
row; turn. 

Repeat the second row until you have a strip of ten shells, under which 
& scallop is to be worked with the pineapple in the center. Then you are 
ready to begin the eleventh row. 

Eleventh Row. — Work 1 ch, skip two shells, make a shell under the 3 ch 
between the eighth and ninth shells, 4 ch, pass over three shells in the strip 
and make a shell between the fifth and sixth shells iu the strip, 4 ch, make a 
shell between the second and third shells in the strip, 5 ch, fasten with sc 
iu the last loop of the strip; turn. 

There are now three shells along the edge of the strip of ten shells. A 



204 Home Decorative Work. 

row of shells is to be worked in the first and third of these, while the mid- 
dle one forms the foundation of the pineapple. 

Twelfth Boio. — "Work 10 sc under the 5 ch, shell in shell, 4 ch, 10 tr 
under 2 ch in second shell, 4 ch, shell in shell, 5 ch, fasten with sc in 1 ch of 
the preceding row ; turn. 

Thirteenth Row. — -Work back in slip-stitch along the 5 ch to the first 
shell, 1 ch, shell in shell, 4 ch, 1 sc between first aud second tr, 2 ch, 1 sc 
between second and third tr, and so on through the 10 tr; then 4 ch, shell 
in shell, 5 ch, fasten with sc in 1 ch of the last row ; turn. 

Fourteenth Boic. — Work 10 sc under 5 ch, 1 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, 1 sc 
under first 2 ch, * 2 ch, 1 sc under next 2 ch, and repeat from star until you 
have worked the sc eight times; then 3 ch, shell in shell, 5 ch, 1 sc under 1 
ch of the last row; turn. 

Fifteenth Row. — Work along the 5 ch in slip-stitch; then 1 ch, shell in 
shell, 3 ch, 1 sc under the first 2 ch, * 2 ch, 1 sc under next 2 ch, and repeat 
from star until the sc has been worked seven times; then 3 ch, shell in shell,. 
5 ch, fasten in 1 ch of the last row; turn. 

The sixteenth and eighteenth rows are like the fourteenth, except that 
the single crochet stitches are decreased by two; and the seventeenth and 
nineteenth rows are like the fifteenth, decreased by two single crochet 
stitches in each row. 

Twentieth Row. — Work 10 sc under 5 ch, 1 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, 1 se 
under the first 2 ch, 2 ch, 1 sc under the next 2 ch, 3 ch, shell in shell, 5 ch, 
1 sc under 1 ch ; turn. 

Twenty-first Row. — Work along the 5 ch in slip-stitch; 1 ch, shell in; 
shell, throw the thread twice around the crochet hook, put the hook between 
the 2 sc at the end of the pineapple, thread over, draw through two loops, 
thread over, draw through two loojjs, shell in shell, 5 ch, fasten with sc in 
1 ch of the last row ; turn. 

Twenty-second Roiv. — Work 10 sc under 5 ch, fold the pineapple together 
lengthwise so that the two end shells lie against each other, put the hook 
through the center of both shells, and join with 1 sc, then open out the work, 
make 5 ch, fasten with sc in 1 ch of the last row ; turn. 

Twenty-third Row. — Work along the 5 chin slip-stitch, then turn and work 
10 sc in the first large loop, fasten with a slip-stitch in 1 ch, and so continue 
until you have filled in the six loops; then 1 ch, shell in shell, join with se 
at the end of the row; turn and continue as at first until there are ten shells, 
when the second scallop must be started by repeating the directions from the 
eleventh row. 

While working, the first three loops on the edge of each scallop are to be 
joined to the last three loops of the previous scallop by working 5 sc, then 
taking the hook out and putting it through the middle sc of the previous- 
scallop, drawing the loop through and finishing with 10 sc as usual. 



Crochet Work. 205 

PINEAPPLE INSERTION. 

Make a chain of 32 stitches; turn. 

First Mow. — ^Work a tr in each stitch of the chain beginning with the 
fourth; turn. 

Second Row. — Work 4 ch, tr in the next two stitches, 2 ch, pass over 
two stitches, tr in each of the next eight stitches, 2 ch, tr in each of the next 
eight stitches, 2 ch, tr in tlie last three stitches; turn. 

Tliird Roio. — Work 3 ch, tr in the first stitch of the second row, (3 tr, 
2 ch, 3 tr) in 2 ch of tlie preceding row forming a shell ; then work 6 ch and 
make a shell in the next loop, and 2 tr in the second stitch from the shell ; 
turn. 

Fourth Row. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr, 1 ch, shell in shell, 4 ch, then (1 tr, 2 ch) 
eight times in the middle shell, 4 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the 
last two stitches; turn. 

Fifth Row. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr, 1 ch, shell in shell, 4.ch, sc in first loop of 
•8 tr, 3 ch, sc in next loop, and so on through all the loops; 4 ch, shell in 
shell, 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the last two stitches; turn. 

Sixth Row. — Work 3 ch, 2 tr in the 1 ch of the preceding row, 1 ch, shell 
in shell, 3 ch, work pineapple as in the preceding row; 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 
ch, 3 trin the first 1 ch of last row; turn. 

Seventh Roiv. — Work 3 ch, 3 tr, 1 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, work pineapple 
as in the preceding row, 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, 4 tr; turn. 

Eighth Row. — Work 3 ch, 3 tr, 1 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, work across as 
hefore, 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, 4 tr; turn. 

Ninth Row. — Work 3 ch, 5 tr, the fourth and fifth being in 1 ch of the 
last row, 1 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, work across as before, 3 ch, shell in shell, 
1 ch, 6 tr, the first and second being in 1 ch of the last row; turn. 

Tenth Row. — Work 3 ch, 7 tr, 1 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, work across as 
"before, 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, 8 tr; turn. 

Eleventh Row. — Work 3 ch, 9 tr, 1 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, fasten in 2 ch 
of last row, 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, 10 tr; turn. 

Twelfth Row. — Work 3 ch, 11 tr, 1 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, fasten in sc 
of the last row, 3 ch, make only half of the next shell, then fasten it to the 
last shell made, and make the other half, 1 ch, 12 tr; turn. 

Thirteenth Row.—Work. 3 ch, 11 tr, 2 tr in the first two stitches of the 
first shell, 2 tr in the last two stitches of the next shell, then 12 tr; turn. 

Kepeat from the second row. 

OPEN-DIAMOND LACE. 

Make a chain of 23 stitches; turn. 

First Row. — Work 1 tr in the eighth stitch from the end, *2 ch, pass 
-over two stitches, 1 tr in the next; repeat from the star three times more, 
then 1 tr in each of the next three stitches, 9 ch; turn. 

Second Row. — Work 1 tr in each of the first four stitches of 9 ch, 2 ch, 



206 Home Decorative Work. 

pass over two stitches, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches, * 2 ch, pass 
over two stitches, 1 tr in the next; repeat from the star three times more, 5 
ch; turn. 

Tliird Row. — \York 1 tr in the top of the last tr of the last row, 2 ch, 
1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, pass over two stitches, 1 tr in each of the next four 
stitches, 5 ch, 1 double treble in the center of the next chain, 5 ch, pass 
over four stitches, 1 tr in each of next four stitches, 11 ch; turn. 

Fourth Row. — Work 1 tr in each of the first four stitches of 11 ch, 5 ch, 
pass over four of the 5 ch of the preceding row, 1 dc in each of the next 
three stitches, 5 ch, pass over four chain and three trebles, 1 tr in each of 
the next four stitches, 2 ch, pass over two, 1 tr in the next, 2 ch, pass over 
two, 1 tr in the next, 5 ch ; turn. 

Fifth Row. — Pass over two stitches, 1 tr in each of the next four 
stitches, 8 ch, pass over eight, 1 dc in each of the next five stitches, 8 ch, 
pass over eight, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches, 5 ch; turn. 

Sixth Row. — Work 4 tr in 8 ch, 7 ch, 3 dc in the center of 5 dc of the 
previous row, 7 ch, pass over 4 ch, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches, 2 ch, 
pass over two stitches, 1 tr in the next stitch, 2 ch, 1 tr in the end stitch, 5 
ch; turn. 

Seventh Row. — Work 1 tr in the first tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the next tr, 2 ch, 
pass over two stitches, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches, 4 ch, 1 double 
treble in the center of 3 dc, 4 ch, pass over five stitches, 1 tr in each of the 
next four stitches, 4 ch; turn. 

Eighth Row. — Pass over three stitches, 1 tr in each of the next four 
stitches, 2 ch, pass over three stitches, 1 tr in each of the next four, * 2 ch, 
pass over two stitches, 1 tr in the next; repeat from the star three times 
more, 5 ch; turn. 

Ninth Row. — Pass over two stitches, 1 tr in the next, * 2 ch, pass over 
two, 1 tr in the next ; repeat from the star four times more, 1 tr in each of 
the next three stitches, 9 ch. 

Repeat from the second row. 

For the edge : 

First Row. — Work 1 double treble in the depth between two scallops, 3 
ch, 1 dc in the next loop of the chain at the end of the second row, 3 ch, 1 tr 
in the fourth row, 4 ch, 1 dc in the fifth row, 5 ch, 1 dc in the sixth row, 5 
ch, 1 dc in the seventh row, 4 ch, 1 tr in the eighth row, 3 ch, 1 dc in the 
ninth row, 3 ch. Repeat from the beginning of the row; turn. 

Second Row. — Work 1 dc under the first 3 ch, 3 ch, 1 dc under the next, 
3 ch, 1 dc under the next, * 5 ch, 1 dc under the next; repeat from the star 
twice more, 3 ch, 1 dc under the next chain, 1 dc under the next, 2 ch. 
Repeat from the beginning of the row; turn. 

ITiird Row. — Work 1 dc under the first 3 ch, 1 ch, 1 tr under the next 3 
eh, * 3 ch, 1 dc in the first, 1 tr under the same 3 ch; repeat from the star 



Crochet Work. 207 

twice more, 1 ch, 1 dc under the next 5 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr under the next 5 ch, 
* 4 ch, 1 dc in the first, 1 tr under the same chain; repeat from the last star 
twice more, 2 ch, 1 dc under the next 5 ch, 1 ch, 1 tr under 3 ch, * 3 ch, 1 
dc in the first, 1 tr under 3 ch ; repeat from the last star twice more, 1 ch, 1 
dc under the next 3 ch ; then repeat from the beginning of the row. 
PINEAPPLE INSERTION, NO. 2. 

Make a chain of 35 stitches; turn. 

First Bow. — ^Work a shell (3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr) in the fourth chain stitch, 1 
ch, pass over one stitch, 1 tr in each of the next three stitches, 2 ch, pass 
over two, 1 tr in each of the next eight, 2 ch, pass over two, 1 tr in each of 
the next three, 1 ch, pass over one, shell in the last stitch of the chain, 3 chj 
turn. 

Second Row. — Shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 3 tr's, shell under the 
first 2 ch, 3 ch, * 1 sc between the first and second tr, 3 ch; repeat from the 
star nine times, 3 ch, shell under the next 2 ch, 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 3 tr's, 1 
ch, shell in shell, 3ch; turn. 

Tldrd Row. — Shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 3 tr's, 1 ch, shell in 
shell, 3 ch, * 1 sc between the first and second sc (under 3 ch), 3 ch; repeat 
from the star eight times, 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 3 tr's, 1 
ch, shell in shell, 3 ch ; turn. 

Fourth Row. — Shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 3 tr's, 1 ch, shell in 
shell, 3 ch, * 1 sc under first 3 ch, 3 ch ; repeat from the star seven times, 3 
ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 3 tr's, 1 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch; turn. 

Fifth Row. — Shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 3 tr's, 1 tr under 1 ch, 1 
ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, * 1 sc under first 3 ch, 3 ch ; repeat from the star six 
times, 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr under 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 3 tr's, 1 ch, 
shell in shell, 3 ch ; turn. 

Sixth Row. — Shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 4 tr's, 1 tr under 1 ch, 1 
ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, * 1 sc under the first 3 ch, 3 ch ; repeat from the star 
five times, 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr under 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 4 tr's, 1 
ch, shell in shell, 3 ch ; turn. 

Seventh Row. — Shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 5 tr's, 1 tr under 1 ch, 
1 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, * 1 sc under first 3 ch, 3 ch ; repeat from the star 
four times, 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr under 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 5 tr's, 1 
ch, shell in shell, 3 ch ; turn. 

Eighth Row. — Shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 6 tr's, 1 tr under 1 ch, 
1 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, * 1 sc under first 3 ch, 3 ch; repeat from the star 
three times, 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr under 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 6 tr's, 1 
ch, shell in shell, 3 ch; turn. 

Ninth Roiv. — Shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 7 tr's, 1 tr under 1 ch, 
1 ch, shell in shell; 3 ch, * 1 sc under first 3 ch, 3 ch; repeat from the star 
twice, 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr under 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 7 tr's, 1 ch, 
shell in shell, 3 ch; turn. 



■208 Home Decorative Work. 

Tenth Bow. — Shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 8 tr's, 1 tr under 1 ch, 
1 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, 1 sc under first 3 ch, 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr 
Tinder 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 8 tr's, 1 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch; turn. 

Eleventh Bow. — Shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr in each of 9 tr's, 3 tr under 1 ch, 
1 tr in the first 2 tr's of the shell, catch the hook in the second stitch of each 
shell, thus bringing them together, 1 tr in the last two stitches of the shell, 
3 tr under 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 9 tr's, 1 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch; 
turn. 

Tivelfth Bow. — Now to begin the next pineapple, shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 
tr in each of the first 3 tr's, 2 ch, pass over two, 1 tr in each of the next 
•eight, 2 ch, pass over three, 1 tr in each of the next eight, 2 ch, pass over 
two, 1 tr in each of the next three, 1 ch, pass over one, shell in shell, 3 ch; 
turn. • 

Begin at the second row. 

WIDE LACE. 

The number of thread used depends on what one intends to use the lace 
for. Crochet yarn of medium size was used for the sample shown in the cut. 
The pattern is very easy to follow. 

Make a chain of 58 stitches; turn. (Fig. 149.) 

First Bow. — In the fourth stitch make 3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr; 6 ch, skip six in 
the foundation, 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in the same stitch, 6 ch, skip six, 3 tr, 1 ch, 
S tr in the same stitch, 12 ch, skip twelve, 3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr in the same stitch, 
12 ch, skip twelve, 3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr in the same stitch, 6 ch, skip six, 1 tr, 1 
ich, 1 tr in the same stitch, 6 ch, skip six, 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in the last stitch; 
turn. 

Second Botv. — Work 3 ch, 6 tr in 1 ch between the last two trebles of the 
tirst row; the remainder is like the first row, " 6 ch, skip six," etc. 

Third Bow. — Like the first row, except at the lower end, — 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 
tr in the first of 6 tr of the last row; 3 ch; 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in the last of 6 tr 
of the second row. 

Fourth Bow. — Work 3 ch, 6 tr between the last 2 tr of last row, 6 tr in 
1 ch between the next 2 tr; the rest like the third row. 

Fifth Bow. — Work 3 ch; 3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr in the chain between 6 tr of the 
last row; 6 ch; 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr between 2 tr of the last row; 6 ch; 3 tr, 1 ch, 
3 tr between 6 tr of the last row *; 9 ch; pass the hook through all four of 
12 ch at the middle, and join with a single crochet; in chain of nine, make 8 
tr, 2 ch ; turn, and make 1 tr in each of the 8 tr, 2 ch ; turn, and make 1 tr 
in each of the 8 tr, 2 ch ; turn and make 1 tr in each of the 8 tr; 3 tr, 1 ch, 3 
tr in 6 tr of the last row; repeat from the star; 6 ch; 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr be- 
tween 2 tr of the last row, 6 ch; 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in the first treble of 6 tr of 
the last row, 3 ch; 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr at the end of the first 6 tr, 3 ch; 1 tr, 1 ch, 
1 tr in the last treble of the last 6 tr; turn. 

Sixth Bow. — Work 3 ch, 6 tr between the first 2 tr, 6 tr between the 



Crochet Work. 



209 




Fig. 149. 



next 2 tr, 6 tr between the next 

2 tr; remainder like the fourth 
row. 

Seventh Bote. — Like the fourth 
row, except at the lower end, — 
put 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in the first 
treble of 6 tr; 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr be- 
tween the next 12 tr, 3 ch ; 1 tr, 
1 ch, 1 tr between the next 12 tr, 

3 ch; 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in the last 
treble of the last 6 tr. 

Eighth JZow.— Work 6 tr in 
each of 2 tr in the scallop, and 
the rest like the seventh row. 

Ninth ^owj.^-Like the seventh 
row, until you come to the point ; 

1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in the first treble 
of 6 tr; 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr between 
each 6 tr; 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in the 
last treble; turn. 

Tenth Bow.—Wot^ 6 tr be- 
tween each of 2 tr of last row. 
This finishes one scallop; re- 
mainder of the row like the fifth 
row, except when joining the 
four long chains, pass the hook 
also through the point of the 
square block. 

Repeat from the first row. 
DOUBLE-FAN LACE. 

Make a chain of 42 stitches; 
turn. 
First Row. — Make a shell (3 tr, 

2 ch, 3 tr) in the fourth stitch, 4 
ch, 1 tr in the seventh stitch 
from the needle, 3 ch, 1 tr in the 
same stitch, 4 ch, make a shell in 
the next seventh stitch from the 
needle, and fasten it down in the 
third stitch from the needle with 
a single crochet stitch; 3 ch, shell 
in the fourth stitch from the 
needle, 4 ch, 1 tr in the seventh 



14 



210 Home Decorative Work. 

stitch from the needle, 3 ch, 1 tr in the same place; 4 ch, shell in the 
seventh stitch from the needle, 1 tr in the last stitch of the chain, 3 ch; 
turn. 

Second Row. — Shell in shell, 3 ch, 8 tr in 3 ch between the 2 tr's, 3 ch, 
shell in shell, fasten with sc in the end of the shell beneath : 3 ch, shell in 
shell, 3 ch, 8tr in 3 ch as before, 3 ch, shell in shell, 7 ch; turn. 

Third Bow. — Shell in shell, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of 8 tr with 1 ch between 
them, 2 ch, shell in shell, fasten as before; 3 ch, shell in shell, 2 ch, 8 tr with 
1 ch between in each of 8 tr, 2 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in 3 ch at the end, 3 ch ; 
turn. 

Fourth Bow. — Shell in shell, 3 tr in the first, second and third spaces of 
the fan, 2 tr in the fourth, 3 tr in the fifth, sixth and seventh spaces, shell in 
shell, fasten as before ; 3 ch, shell in shell, 3 tr in the first, second and third 
spaces of the fan, 2 tr in the fourth, 3 tr in the fifth, sixth and seventh 
spaces, shell in shell, 1 ch, 10 tr in 7 ch with 1 ch between, fasten with sc in 
the end of the shell of the first row; turn, 4 ch and sc in each space, making 
nine little loops; turn. 

Fifth Bow. — Work 1 ch, shell in shell, 4 ch, Itr between 2 tr in the 
middle of the fan, 3 ch, 1 tr in the same place, 4 ch, shell in shell, fasten as 
before, 3 ch, shell in shell, 4 ch, 1 tr in the middle of the fan, 3 ch, 1 tr in 
the same place, 4 ch, shell in shell, 1 tr in 3 ch, 3 ch; turn. 

Repeat from the second row. An insertion to match may be made with 
one row of fans through the middle, and on each edge a double row of shells 
as in the middle of the lace. 

DOUBLE-FAN LACE, NO. 2. 

Make a chain of 27 stitches; turn. 

First Bow. — Miss three stitches, work 4 tr in each of the next three 
stitches (making 12 tr in all), miss two stitches, make a shell (3 tr, 2 ch, 3 
tr) in the next, 4 ch, 1 tr in the ninth stitch from the shell, 3 ch, 1 tr in the 
same stitch, 4 ch, shell in the last stitch, 3 ch; turn. 

Second Bow. — Shell in shell, 3 ch, 8 tr under 3 ch, 3 ch, shell in shell, 1 
tr in each of twelve stitches with 1 ch between, 5 ch; turn. 

Third Bow. ^One tr in each tr of the last row with 1 ch between, shell 
in shell, 2 ch, 1 tr between each of the 8 tr's with 1 ch between, 2 ch, shell 
in shell, 3 ch; turn. 

Fourth Bow. — Shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next thirteen stitches, turn 
and make 13 sc again; turn, 3 ch, fasten in the second sc, repeat six times, 
or to the last stitch in the fan, making a row of loops across the fan ; shell ia 
shell, 1 tr ill each tr of last row with 2 ch between, 3 ch; turn. 

Fifth Bow. — Make 1 tr in each stitch of the last row to the shell, shell in 
shell, 4 ch, 1 tr in the center of the small fan, 3 ch, 1 tr in the same stitch, 
4 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch ; turn. 



Crochet Work. 211 

Sliih 7?oi<'.— Shell in shell, 3 ch, 8 tr umler 3 oh, 3 oh, shell in shell, 1 tr 
in each stitch of the last row (widening nine times); 5 ch; turn. 

Seventh Roiv. — Make 1 tr fifteen times across the fan, with 2 ch between, 
shell in shell, 2 ch, 1 tr between each of 8 tr's of the last row with 1 ch be- 
tween, 2 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch; turn. 

Eighth Row. — Shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next thirteen stitches, turn' 
and make 13 sc again, turn, 3 ch, fasten in the second sc, repeat six times, 
or to the last stitch in the fan; shell in shell, 6 tr under 2 ch (making a 
scallop); continue these scallops in every other space across the fan, 3 ch; 
turn. 

Ninth Row. — Fasten the 3 ch in the third stitch of the scallop with a 
slip-stitch, 3 ch, fasten in the next stitch, 3 ch, fasten between the two scal- 
lops and continue the same in every scallop to the heading, shell in shell, 4 
ch, 1 tr under 3 ch, 3 ch, 1 tr in the same stitch, shell in shell, 3 ch; turn. 

Tenth i?0H'.— Shell in shell, 3 ch, 8 tr under 3 ch, 3.ch, shell in shell, 6 
ch (for next fan), fasten in the center loop of the first scallop on the fan, and 
make this fan just like the first, fastening the second row to the center loop 
of the second scallop, the fourth row to the third scallop, and the sixth row 
to the fourth scallop. Continue the small fans in the heading just as they 
come, without regard to the large fan in the scallop. 

PRINCESS LACE. 
First /?o?('.— Work 8 ch, turn; 3 tr in the fourth stitch, 2 ch, 3 tr in the 
same, making a shell ; 2 ch, 1 tr in the first stitch. 

g Second Row. — Work 5 ch, 1 
tr in top of the first stitch of 
the shell, 2 ch, 3 tr in shell, 
2 ch, 3 tr, making a shell in 
the top of 3 ch. 

TJiird Row.— Work 3 ch, 3 

tr in shell, 2 ch, 3 tr in the 

same, 2 ch, 1 tr in the top of 

Fig. 150. the last stitch of the sheU of 

the second row, 2 ch, 1 tr in the top of the next square, 2 ch, 1 tr in the 

third stitch of the last ch. 

Fourth Row. — Work 5 ch, 1 tr in the top of the first tr of the third row, 
2 ch, 1 tr in the second tr of the third row, 2 oh, 1 tr in the first stitch of 
shell, 2 ch, 3 tr in the shell of the third row, 2 ch, 3 tr in the same tr in the 
top ch. 

The squares along the top and the little scallop of the bottom edge 
are put on after the rest of the trimming is finished. The squares are made 
with 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr, 2 ch, etc., across. To make the scallop on the bottom, 
— 1 sc in the first square, 5 ch, and fasten back in the second stitch of the 
chain with a slip-stitch; 1 ch and 1 sc in the next square, 5 ch, fasten in the 




212 Home Decorative Work. 

second stitch with a slip-stitch, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next square, and so con- 
tinue the length of the lace. 

This is made quite rapidly and is a very pretty lace. 

BIG-WHEEL LACE. 

Make a chain of 24 stitches; turn. 

First Row. — Make 1 sc in 8 ch, * 5 ch, miss three stitches, 1 sc in the 
next; repeat from the star until there are five loops; turn. 

Second Mow. — Make 5 ch, 1 sc in the loop; repeat four times. 

Third Bow. — Make 5 ch, 1 sc in the first loop, 5 tr's in the next sc, 1 sc 
in the next loop, * 5 ch, 1 sc in the next loop, repeat from the star twice; 
turn. 

Fourth Row. — Make 5 ch, 1 sc in the loop, repeat twice; 5 tr in the next 
sc, 1 sc in the center of the 5 tr of the last row, 5 tr in the next sc, and make 
1 sc in the last loop, 3 ch ; turn. 

Fifth Row. — Make 5 tr in sc at the end, 1 sc in the center of the first 5 
tr, 5 tr in the next sc between the two shells, 1 sc in the center of the second 
shell, 5 tr in sc after the shell, 1 sc in the next loop, 5 ch, 1 sc in the loop; 
repeat once. 

Sixth Row. — Make 5 ch, 1 sc in the loop; repeat twice. The last sc 
comes in the center of the first shell, 5 tr in the sc between two shells, 1 sc 
in the center of the shell, 5 tr in the next sc, 1 sc in the center of the last 
shell, 3 ch; turn. 

Seventh Row. — Make 1 sc in the center of the first shell, 5 tr in sc be- 
tween shells, 1 sc in the center of the second shell, 5 ch, 1 sc in the loop; re- 
peat the loops twice. 

Eighth Row. — Make 5 ch, 1 sc in the loop; repeat four times; the last sc 
comes in 3 ch at the end. 

Ninth Row. — Same as second. 

Tenth Row. — Make 5 ch, 1 sc in the loop; repeat four times. This 
larino'S you to the end of the row, and you must make another chain of five 
stitches, and make 1 sc on the side in the sc at the end of the eighth row. 
This begins the semi-circular border; turn and make 8 sc in this loop, 3 ch, 
turn again, make 1 tr between the fourth and fifth sc, 3 ch, 1 tr in the last 
sc, turn, make 6 sc in the first loop, 1 ch, 6 sc in the second loop, 5 ch; 
turn. 

Eleventh Row. — Make 1 sc in the first loop, 5 tr in the next sc to begin 
the second diamond, 1 sc in the next loop, 5 ch, 1 sc in the next loop, repeat 
twice; turn. 

Twelfth Row. — Make 5 ch, 1 sc in the loop, repeat twice; 5 tr in the 
next sc, 1 sc in the center of the shell, 5 tr in sc to the left of the shell, 1 sc 
in the loop, 2 ch, 1 tr in the first sc in the border, 3 ch, 2 double trebles be- 
tween the third and fourth sc, 3 ch, 2 double trebles in 1 ch, 3 ch, 2 double 
trebles betAveen the third and fourth sc, 3 ch, 1 tr in the last sc, 2 ch, 1 sc 



Crochet Work, 213 

in the sc at the end of the sixth row, that is, on the top of the longest row 
in the diamond, turn, 3 sc in the first chain, * 2 ch, 4 sc in the next chain; 
repeat from the star three times, 2 ch, 3 sc in the last loop; turn. 

Tliirteenth Eow. — Make 5 tr in sc to the right of the shells, 1 sc in the 
center of the shell, 5 tr in sc between shells, 1 sc in the center of the next 
shell, 5 tr in sc after shell, 1 sc in loop, 5 ch, 1 sc in the next loop, repeat 
once; turn. 

Fourteenth Bow. — Make 5 ch, 1 sc in the loop, repeat twice. The second 
sc comes in the shells; 5 tr in the next sc, 1 sc in the center of the next shell, 
5 tr in the sc between the shells, 1 sc in the center of the last shell, 2 ch, 3 
double trebles in the 2 ch over the tr of the last row in the border, 3 ch, 3 
double trebles in the next ch, 3 ch, 3 double trebles between the second and 
third of 4 sc, 3 ch, 3 double trebles in the next 2 ch; repeat around the scal- 
lop, then 2 ch, 1 sc in the sc of the end of the fourth row on the other side of 
the longest row of the diamond; turn, make 4 sc in the first ch, *^ 3 ch, 6 sc 
in the next ch; repeat from the star six times, making only 4 sc the last 
time; turn. 

Fifteenth Row. — Make 1 sc in the center of the shell, 5 tr in sc between 
the shells, 1 sc in the center of the second shell, 5 ch, 1 sc in loop, repeat 
twice; turn. 

Sixteenth Bote. — Make 5 ch, 1 sc in the first loop, repeat four times; 4 sc 
in the first 4 sc of the border, * 3 ch, 6 sc in the 6 sc of the border; repeat 
from the star six times, making 4 sc the last time; 1 sc in the loop at the 
end of the third row, 3 ch, turn; 1 sc in the center of the 4 sc, * 3 ch, 4 tr in 
the 3 ch for the scallop on the edge of the semi-circle, with three picots be- 
tween, each composed of 3 ch, and 1 sc; 3 ch, 1 sc in the center of sc; repeat 
from the star until you have made seven, then finish with 3 ch in the sc's, 5 
ch, 1 sc in loop; repeat four times. 

Begin again with the second row. 

SCOTTISH LACE. 

For the ovals which compose the design, commence in the center, with 
a chain of fourteen stitches; join. 

First Bound. — Work 1 dc in each stitch, except in the first and eighth 
stitches; in each of these work three. 

Second and Third Bounds. — Work 1 dc in each stitch, except the middle 
stitch of each end; in each of these work four. 

Fourth Bound. — Work 1 dc in a stitch, 1 ch, pass over one stitch; re- 
peat. At each end work 2 tr, separated by 1 ch in one stitch, instead of 
passing over a stitch. 

Fifth Bound. — Work 1 dc in a treble of the last row, 4 ch, 1 dc in the 
first; repeat. 

For the stars which join the ovals, — G ch, 1 dc into an oval, (5 di, 1 dc 



214 Home Decorative Work. 

into the first. Repeat from the beginning of the star three times more, join- 
iug into the different ovals each time. 

For the heading: 

First Bow. — Work 1 dc in a picot at the top of the oval, 5 ch, 2 double 
trebles in the oval, 2 double trebles in the next oval, 5 ch ; repeat. 

Second Row. — Work 1 tr in a stitch, 1 ch, pass over one stitch; repeat. 

For the edge: Commence at the top of the end, 1 dc into the heading, 
* 5 ch, 1 dc in the second, 1 tr between two picots; repeat from the star 
fourteen times more; *1 tr between two picots, 4 ch, 1 dc in the first, 1 tr 
in the same stitch the last was worked in, 4 ch, 1 dc in the first, 1 ch; re- 
peat from the star twice; 2 tr separated by a picot between the next two 
picots. Repeat from the last star to the end of the row. 

TEN-MINUTE LACE. 

Make a chain of 13 stitches; turn. 

First Bow. — Pass over the first three stitches, work 2 tr in each of the 
next two stitches, 6 ch, pass over five, 1 tr in each of the next three; turn. 

Second Bow. — Make 3 ch, pass the first tr and work 1 tr in each of the 
next 2 tr's, 2 ch, 2 sc around the next 6 ch, 2 ch, 3 tr in the next 2 tr and 
the following stitch ; turn. 

TJiird Bow. — Make 5 ch, 3 tr in the first 3 tr in the preceding row, 6 ch, 
pass over six stitches, 3 tr in the next 3 tr; turn. 

The fourth, sixth and eighth rows are like the second. The fifth and 
seventh rows are like the third. 

Ninth Bow. — Make 3 ch, 3 tr in the first 3 tr in the preceding row, 6 ch, 
pass over six stitches, 2 tr in the last two of the next three in the preceding 
row; turn. 

Tenth Bow. — Same as the second, except at the close, where you must 
add 9 ch, 2 sc in the first 5 ch of the seventh row, * 13 ch, connect to the 
sixth stitch of the preceding 9 ch, l)ack over the last 9 ch of the 13 ch work 1 
slip-stitch, 1 sc, 1 dc, 2 tr and 4 long trebles. Repeat this three times from 
the star, working 14 ch instead of 13 ch, and closing with 4 ch. 

Eleventh Bow.— "Work. 1 tr in the middle one of the free five of the next 
9 ch in the preceding row, then work same as the third row, using 2 ch in- 
stead of 5 ch. 

Twelfth Bote. — Work as in the second row, then 5 ch, 1 se in the next 
treble in the preceding row, * 6 ch, pass o\ev the horizontal treble and work 
2 sc in the next two of the following 5 ch, 2 sc separated by a picot com- 
posed of 5 ch, and 1 sc in the first of them, in the following stitch, 2 sc in 
the next two stitches; repeat from the star twice, then 6 ch, 1 sc in the fii-st 
of the next 4 ch, 2 ch, 1 sc around the first 5 ch of the fifth row; turn. 

Tliirteenth Bow. — Make 5 ch, connect to the middle chain of the first five 
in the third row, 2 ch, 1 sc in the third stitch of the first five in this row, * 2 
ch, 1 tr in the third of the next 6 ch in the preceding row, 1 picot, 1 dc in 



Crochet Work. 215 

the lowest vein of the preceding treble, 2 ch, 1 tr in the next stitch, a picot, 

1 dc in the lowest vein of the preceding treble, 2 ch, 1 sc around the next 
picot; repeat three times from the star, but at the close work 5 ch instead of 
2, then 1 sc in the middle chain of the next five, and then work as in the 
thii-d row, but instead of the first 5 ch make only 2 ch. 

Fourteenth Row. — Work as in the second row, and at the close add 4 ch, 
and 1 sc around the next 5 ch in the preceding row. 

Fifteenth Row. — Work 2 ch, 1 sc in the following third of the next 4 ch 
in the preceding row; then as in the third row, but instead of the first 5 ch, 
■work 2 ch. 

Continue to repeat from the second to the fifteenth rows, but at every 
repetition connect the middle stitch of the first picot in the thirteenth row to 
the last picot of the preceding pattern. 

01 D-FASHIONED LACE. 

IVIake a chain of 42 stitches; turn. 

First Row. — Miss 5 ch, 1 tr in ihe next, 2 ch, miss 2, 1 tr in the next, 2 
ch, miss 2, 1 tr in the next, 6 ch, miss 6, 1 tr in the next, * 2 ch, miss 2, 1 tr 
in the next; repeat from the star twice, 6 ch, miss 6, 1 tr in the next, 2 ch, 
miss 2, 1 tr in the next, 2 ch, miss 2, 1 tr in the next, 5 ch ; turn. 

Second Row. — Make 1 tr in tr of the last row, 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr, 2 ch, 
miss 2, tr in tr, 6 tr in 6 ch, tr in tr, * 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr; repeat from the 
star twice, 6 tr in 6 ch, tr in tr, 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr, 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr, 2 
ch, 1 tr in the center of 5 ch, 5 ch; turn! 

Third Row. — Make 1 tr in tr of the last row, 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr, 2 ch 
miss 2, tr in tr, 6 ch, miss 6, tr in tr, * 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr; repeat from 
the star twice, 6 ch, miss 6, tr in tr, 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the 
center of 5 ch, 5 ch ; turn. 

Fourth Roio. — Make 1 tr in tr of the last row, 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr, 2 ch, 
miss 2, tr in tr, 6 tr in 6 ch, tr in tr, * 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr ; repeat from the 
star twice, 6 tr in 6 ch, tr in tr, 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr, 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr, 

2 ch, 1 tr in the center of 5 ch, 5 ch, fasten in the top of 5 ch of the third 
row; turn. 

Fifth Row.— Make 20 tr in the loop formed by 5 ch, tr in tr, * 2 ch, miss 
2, tr in tr; repeat from the star twice, 6 ch, miss 6, tr in tr, * 2 ch, miss 2, 
tr in tr; repeat from the star twice, 6 ch, miss 6, tr in tr, 2 ch, miss 2, tr in 
tr, 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr, 2 ch, miss 2, 1 tr in the center of 5 ch, 5 ch; turn. 

Sixth Row. — Make 1 tr in tr, 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr, 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr, 
6 tr in 6 ch, tr in tr, * 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr; repeat from the star twice, 6 tr 
in 6 ch, tr in tr, * 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr; repeat from the star twice, * 2 ch, 
miss 2, 1 tr; repeat from the star all around the scarop formed by 20 tr, and 
fasten by sc to the top of 5 ch in the second row, 2 ch; turn. 

Seventh i?ow.^Make 2 tr in 2 ch of the previous row around the scallop, 
^ith 2 ch between each group of 2 tr, tr in tr, * 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr; repeat 



216 Home Decorative Work. 

from the star twice, 6 ch, miss 6, tr in tr, * 2 eh, mi&s 2, tr in tr; repeat from 
the star twice, 6 ch, miss 6, tr in tr, 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr, 2 ch, miss 2, tr in 
tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the center of 5 ch, 5 ch; turn. 

Eighth Roto. — ^Make 1 tr in tr of the last row, 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr, 2 ch, 
miss 2, tr in tr, 6 tr in 6 ch, tr in tr, * 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr; repeat from the 
star twice, 6 tr in 6 ch, tr in tr, * 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr; repeat from the star 
twice, 3 ch, 1 tr under 2 ch of the previous row; repeat the 3 ch, 1 tr all 
around the scallop, and fasten with sc to the top of the 5 ch in the first row, 
1 ch; turn. 

Ninth Row. — * Make 1 dc, 2 tr, 1 dc under 3 ch of the previous row; re- 
peat from the star all around the scallop; tr in tr, * 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr; re- 
peat from the star twice; 6 ch, miss 6, tr in tr, * 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr; re- 
peat from the star twice; 6 ch, miss 6, tr in tr, 2 ch, miss 2, tr in tr, 2 ch, 
miss 2, tr in tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the center oi 5 th, 5 ch; turn. 

Repeat from the second row. This lace should be worked with fine 
thread, and is i^retty finished with an edge made by fastening 5 ch with aa 
sc between eveiy second tr of the scallof . 

BEAU-irEAL LACE. 

Make a chain of 60 stitches; turn. (Fig. 161.) 

First Row. — Shell in the fourtt stitch of the chain (3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr), I 
spider-web stitch (draw out the stitch on the hook about one-fourth of an 
inch, pull the thread through the stitch, put the hook between the long 
stitch and the thread pnlled through, down next to the work, draw the 
stitches on the hook down close and draw the thread through both), another 
spider-web stitch, catch in the ninth stitch from the shell, two spider-web 
stitches, shell in the ninth stitch, 6 ch, 1 tr in the next ninth stitch, 2 ch, 1 
tr in the same stitch, 6 ch, shell in the next ninth stitch, two spider-web 
stitches, catch in the next ninth stitch, two spider-web stitches, shell in the 
next ninth stitch, 3 ch ; turn. 

Second Row. — Shell in shell, one spider-web stitch, catch in the knot 
between the first two spider-web stitches of the jirevious row, two spider-web 
stitches, catch between the last two spider-web stitches, one spider-web 
stitch, shell in shell, 4 ch, 8 tr in 2 ch of the previous row, 4 ch, shell in 
shell, one spider-web stitch, catch between the first two stitches, two spider- 
web stitches, catch between the last two stitches, one spider-web stitch, 
shell in shell, 1 tr in 3 ch of the last row; turn. 

Tliird iJow. Shell in shell, two spider-web stitches and catch in the 
center knot, two spider-web stitches, shell in shell. 2 ch, 1 tr with 1 ch be- 
tween in each of the 8 tr's of the last row, 2 ch, shell in shell, two s])'.der- 
web stitches, catch in the center knot, two spider-web stitches, shell in 
shell, 2 ch; turn. 

Fourth Row. — Shell in shell, one spider-web stitch, catch in the knot 
between the first two spider-web stitches of the previous row, two spider- 



Crochet Work. 



217 



web stitches, catch between the last two spider-web stitches, one spider-web 
stitch, shell in shell, 3 tr and 1 so in each 1 ch of fan, shell in shell, one 
spider-web stitch, catch between the first two stitches, two spider web 
sticthes, catch between the last two stitches, one spider-web stitch, shell in 

shell, 1 tr in 3 ch of the last 
row, 3 ch; turn. 

Fifth Row. — Same as first 
row. 

bixth Row. — Same as second 
r(w. 

Serenth Roio. — Same as third 
row. 

Eighth Row. — Work 4 ch, 
turn; remainder same as 
fourth row. 

Ninth Rote. — Same as the 
first row; then 12 tr in 4 ch 
at the end of the row for the- 
scallop, catch in 3 ch be- 
tween the fifth and sixth rows, 
with 1 sc; turn. 

Tenth Row. — "Work 1 tr be- 
tween the first and second of 
the scallop, 1 ch, repeat tea 
times; the remainder of the 
row same as second row. 

Eleventh How. — Same as the- 
third row until you get to the- 
scallop; then 3 tr and 1 so- 
under each 1 ch of the last 
row, catch in 3 ch betweea 
the third and fourth rows, 
t urn ; two spider-web' stitf hes, 
catch with 1 sc ])etween the- 
second and third small scal- 
lops of the large scallop, two 
Fig. 151. spider-Aveb stitches, catch ]w- 

tween the fourth and fifth small scallops, two spider-web stitches, catch be- 
tMeen the sixth and seventh small scallops, two spider-web stitches, catch 
between the eighth and ninth small scallops, two spider-web stitches. 
Twelfth Row. — Same as fourth row. 

TJiirteenfh /?on;.— Same as the first row until you get to the scallop; Ihea 
one spider-web stitch, catch in the knot between the firet and second spider- 




218 Home Decorative Work. 

\\ eb stitches of the last row, two spider-web stitches, catch in the knot be- 
tween the third and fourth spider-web stitches, and so on around the scallop; 
the last time make only one spider-web stitch, 1 tr between the second and 
third shells; turn. 

Fourteenth Row. — Work 3 ch, 3 tr with 1 ch between into the knot l)e- 
tween the first and second spider-web stitches of the last row, 3 ch; repeat 
around the scallop; the rest of the row is worked the same as the second row. 

Fifteenth Row. — Same as the third row until you get to the scallop; then 
7 tr under each 3 ch of the last row all around the scallop, catch in 3 ch 
between the first and second rows, 3 ch, catch in the first stitch of the 
original chain; turn. 

Sixteenth Row. — Work 3 ch, catch in the fourth of 7 tr of the last row, 
* 4 ch, catch in the same stitch; rej)eat from the star twice more; 4 ch, 
catch in the fourth tr of the next small scallop and repeat from the first of 
the row all around the scallop; then 3 ch and work the rest of the row the 
same as the fourth. 

Begin again at the first row. 

CBAB LACE. 

Make a chain of 30 stitches; turn. 

First Row. — Make 1 tr in each of the ninth, tenth, eleventh and twelfth 
chain stitches, * 2 ch, miss two stitches, 1 tr in the next; repeat from the 
star until there are six trebles; turn. 

Second Row. — ^Make 5 ch, 1 tr in the second tr, * 2 ch, 1 tr in the next 
tr; repeat from the star four times, 3 tr in the next 2 ch, 11 ch, 4 tr in the 
loop made by 9 ch; turn. 

Third Row. — Make 10 ch, 3 tr in the beginning of the same ch, 1 tr in 
the last tr of the preceding row, 6 ch, 1 dc in the middle of 11 ch, 6 ch, 3 tr 
under 2 ch, 1 tr in the next tr, * 2 ch, 1 tr in the next tr, 2 ch, repeat from 
the star to the end of the row, putting the last tr in the third stitch of 5 ch; 
turn. 

Fourth Rotv.— Make 5 ch, 1 tr in second tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the next tr, 2 
ch, 1 tr in the next, 3 tr under 2 ch, 7 ch, 3 dc in 1 dc of the last row, 7 ch, 
1 tr in the last tr of the group of four, 3 tr under 10 ch; turn. 

Fifth Row. — Make 10 ch, 3 tr in the beginning of the same ch, 1 tr in 
the last tr of the group, 9 ch, 5 dc in 3 dc, 9 ch, 3 tr under 2 ch, 1 tr in the 
next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the third stitch of 5 ch; turn. 

Sixth Row. — Make 5 ch, 1 tr in the second tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the next tr, 2 
ch, 1 tr in the last of the group, 3 tr in 9 ch, 7 ch, 3 dc in 5 dc, 7 ch, 3 tr in 
9 ch, 1 tr in the last of the group ; turn. 

Seventh Roxo. — Make 7 ch, pass over the last 3 tr of the group, 1 tr in 
the first tr, 3 tr in 7 ch, 6 ch, 1 dc in the center of 3 dc, 6 ch, 3 tr in 7 ch, 1 
tr in the next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last of the group, * 2 ch, 1 tr in the next 



Crochet Work. 219 

tr, 2 ch, repeat from the star to the end of the row, putting the last tr in the 
third stitch of 5 ch ; turn. 

Eighth Jiotv.—Make 5 ch, 1 tr in the second tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the next tr, 
2 ch, 1 tr in the next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the next tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last of the 
group, 3 tr in 6 ch, 3 ch, 3 tr in the next 6 ch, 1 tr in the last of the group; 
turn. 

Ninth Bow. — Make 6 ch, 4 tr in 3 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last tr of the 
group, * 2 ch, 1 tr in the next tr; repeat from the star to the end of the jow. 

Kepeat from the second row. When the strip of lace is long enough, 
put on a heavy edge consisting of 12 tr on the outside loops of the scallop, 
and 15 tr on the middle loop. 

KUFFLE LACE. 

Make a chain of 38 stitches; turn. 

First Row. — Make (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in the seventh chain stitch from the 
needle, • pass over 26, 5 ch, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in the next stitch; repeat from 
the star twice more, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last stitch of the chain; turn. 

Second £oiv.—Make 5 ch, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in the second 2 ch of the pre- 
vious row, * 2 ch, 1 sc in the third stitch of 5 ch, 2 ch, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in 2 
ch of the previous row; repeat from the star three times, 2 ch, 1 sc in the 
second stitch of the loop; turn. 

Third Bow. — Make 5 ch, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in the second 2 ch of the pre- 
vious row, * 5 ch, (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) in the next 2 ch; repeat from the star 
three times, 2 ch, 1 tr in the third stitch of 5 ch ; turn. 

The fourth and sixth rows are like the second; the fifth and seventh 
like the third. 

Eighth Row. — Make 5 ch, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in the second 2 ch of the pre- 
vious row, * 2 ch, 1 sc in the third stitch of 5 ch, 2 ch, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in 2 
ch of the previous row; repeat from the star three times more, 15 tr in 5 ch 
of the pre%ious row, and turn without catching the scallop down. 

Ninth Row. — Make 4 ch, 1 tr between the first and second tr of scallop, 
* 1 ch, 1 tr between the next 2 tr's; repeat from the star all around the scal- 
lop, 1 oh, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in the second 2 ch of the previous row, * 5 ch, (1 
tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) in the next 2 ch; repeat from the star three times, 2 ch, 1 tr 
in the third stitch of 5 ch ; turn. 

Tenth Row. — Like the second until you come to the scallop; then 2 ch, 1 
tr between every tr in the scallop. 

Eleventh Row. — Make 5 ch, 1 tr between the first and second tr of the 
scallop, * 3 ch, 1 tr between the next tAvo tr's; repeat all around the scalloi). 
then work like the third row, except to begin with 2 ch instead of 5 ch. 

Twelfth Jiow. — Like the second until you come to the scallop; then 2 ch, 
2 tr between the first and second 2 tr's of the scallop, * 4 ch, 2 tr between 
next two tr's; repeat around the scallop, 1 sc in the foundation chain; turn. 

Thirteenth Row. — Make 2 ch, * 3 tr in 4 ch, 4 ch; repeat from the star 



220 Home Decorative Work. 

around the scallop; then like the third row, except to begin with 2 ch in- 
stead of 5 ch. 

Fourteenth Row. — Like the second. • 

Fifteenth 7iow.— Like the third. 

Sixteenth Eow. — Like the eighth. 

This begins the second scallop. The scallop should be caught down at 
the beginning of the last row with an so in the last do of the second row of 
the first scallop. 

GEEEK LACE. 

Make a chain of 30 stitches; turn. 

First Roiv. — Pass over 3 ch and make 1 tr in each of the fourth and fifth 
stitches, 2 ch, miss 2, 1 tr in the next 2 ch, miss 2, 1 tr in each of the next 
sixteen stitches, 2 ch, miss 2, 1 tr in the next, 2 ch, miss 2, 1 tr in the next^ 
5 ch ; turn. 

Second Sow. — Make 1 tr in the second tr of the last row, 2 ch, 1 tr in 
each of the next 4 tr's, 2 ch, 1 tr in the eighth tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the twelfth 
tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the sixteenth tr, 2 ch, tr in tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 
3 tr, 3 ch ; turn. 

Third Bow. — Make 1 tr in each of 2 tr, 2 ch, tr in tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of 
the next ten stitches, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches, 2 ch, tr in 
tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the third stitch of the chain, 5 ch ; turn. 

Fourth Roto. — Make tr in tr, * 2 ch, 4 tr in 4 tr; repeat from the star 
twice more, 2 ch, tr in tr, 2 ch, 3 tr in 3 tr, 3 ch ; turn. 

Fifth Bow. — Make 2 tr in 2 tr, 2 ch, tr in tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the 
next 4 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 10 tr, 2 ch, tr in tr, 2 ch, tr in tr, 5 
ch; turn. 

Sixth Bow. — Make tr in tr, * 2 ch, tr in tr; repeat from the star four 
times, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr, 2 ch, tr in tr, 2 ch, 3 tr in the edge^ 
3 ch; turn. 

Repeat from the first row. 

For the edge: 8 ch, fasten in the first tr, 3 ch, turn; 4 tr in ch, 3 ch,^ 
turn; 4 tr, 1 tr to the edge of the lace, 4 ch, fasten in the edge of the lace, 3- 
ch, turn; 4 tr in ch, 3 ch, turn; 4 tr in tr's, 1 tr in the edge of the lace, 4 ch 
fasten with sc in the lace. Repeat to the end. 

SIMPLE SHELL LACE. 

Make a chain of the required length. 

First Row. — Work 1 dc into every chain stitch; fasten the thread, and 
begin at the other end. 

Second Boui. — Work 1 dc into the first dc, 2 ch, pass over two stitches, 1 
dc in the next, repeat to the end of the (-hain; fasten the thread. 

Third Row. — Work 1 sc into the first stitch, * 2 ch, pass over two 
stitches, 1 sc in the next; repeat from the star twice more, 5 ch, pass over 
three stitches; repeat from the beginning of the row; fasten the thread. 



Crochet Work. 221 

Fourth i?ow.— Work 3 tr under the 5 ch, keeping the top xOOp on the 
hook each time, and draw all into one stitch at the last, 2 ch; repeat from 
the beginning twice more, then make 4 ch, and three more clusters of the 
trebles in the same 5 ch, 1 ch, 1 dc in the second 2 ch of the last row, 1 dc 
under the next 5 ch, 4 ch, 1 dc under the same 5 ch, 2 ch, 1 dc under the 
same 5 ch, 4 ch, 1 dc under the same 5 ch, 1 dc under the next second 2 ch, 
1 ch; repeat from the beginning of the row; fasten the thread. 

Fifth to Tenth Bows.—Wot]^. 3 tr under the 2 ch between the second and 
third 3 tr's of the last row, 2 ch, 3 tr under the next 4 ch, 2 ch, 3 tr under 
the same 4 ch, 4 ch, 3 tr under the same 4 ch, 2 ch, 3 tr under the same 4 ch 
(always bringing all three stitches in the tr's into one stitch), 2 ch, 3 tr 
under the next 2 ch, 1 ch, 1 dc under the next 1 ch, 2 dc separated by 2 ch 
under the next 4 ch, 2 dc separated by 2 ch under the same 4 ch, 1 dc under 
the next 1 ch, 1 ch; repeat from the beginning of the row; fasten the thread. 

Tenth i?ow.— Work 1 sc under 4 ch in the depth of the scallop, 1 ch, two 
clusters of the trebles separated by 4 ch under the chain between the clus- 
ters of the last row, 4 ch, five clusters of trebles separated by 4 ch under 4 
«h, two clusters of trebles separated by 4 ch under 2 ch, which makes in all 
nine clusters of trebles in the scallop; make 1 ch, and repeat from the be- 
ginning; fasten the thread. 

IRISH PICOTEE LACE. 

Make a chain of 18 stitches; turn. 

First Mow.— Fasten with a slip-stitch in the seventh stitch from the 
needle, 4 ch, fasten in the same stitch, 6 ch, lasten with a slip-stitch in the 
thirteenth chain stitch, 4 ch, fasten in the same place, 6 ch, fasten in the 
last stitch. 

Second Row. — Make 6 ch, fasten in the middle stitch of the first 6 ch, 4 
ch, fasten in the same place, 6 ch, fasten in the next 6 ch, 4 ch, fasten in the 
same place, 6 ch, fasten in the last 6 ch, 6 ch; turn. 

Tliird Row. — Fasten in the middle of the next 6 ch, 4 ch, fasten in the 
same place, 6 ch, fasten in the next 6 ch, 4 ch, fasten in the same place, 6 
ch, fasten in the third stitch of the last 6 ch, 6 ch; turn. 

Fourth Row. — Fasten in the first G ch, 4 ch, fasten in the same place, 6 
ch, fasten in the next 6 ch, 4 ch, fasten in the same place, 6 ch, 12 tr in the 
next 6 ch, fasten to the first row; turn. 

Fifth Rote—Make 3 ch, 1 tr between the first and second tr of the last 
row, 1 ch, 1 tr between the next two tr's and so on around the scallop, 3 ch, 
fasten in the first 6 ch, 4 ch, fasten in the same place, 6 ch, fasten in the 
next 6 ch, 4 ch, fasten in the same place, 6 ch, fasten in the third stitch of 
the last 6 ch, 6 ch; turn. 

Sixth Roiv. — Fasten in the first 6 ch, 4 ch, fasten in the same place, 6 
ch, fasten in the next 6 ch, 4 ch, fasten in the same place, 6 ch, 1 tr between 
the first and second tr's of the last row of the scallop, 2 ch, 1 tr between the 



222 Home Decokative Work. 

next two tr's, and so continue around the scallop; fasten to the foundation 
chain; turn. 

Seventh Bow. — Make 5 ch and fasten with a slip-stitch between the first 
and second tr of the scallop, 5 ch, fasten between the next two tr's, and so 
continue around the scallop, 5 ch, fasten in the first 6 ch, 4 ch, fasten in the 
same place, 6 ch, fasten in the next 6 ch, 4 ch, fasten in the same place, 6 
ch, fasten in the third stitch of the last 6 ch. 

Repeat from the first row, and fasten each downward row of the new 
scallop to the corresponding 5 ch of the last scallop. 

GRETCHEN LACE. 

Make a chain of 31 stitches; turn. 

First Row. — Make 1 tr in each of the first three stitches from the hook, 
2 ch, miss two stitches, 1 tr in each of the next stitches, 2 ch, and repeat 
from the beginning four times, 3 ch ; turn. 

Second Row. — Make 1 tr in the second tr of the last row, 1 tr in the next 
tr, * 3 tr under the next 2 ch, 2 ch; repeat from the star four times, 3 tr, 3 
tr at the edge, 3 ch; turn. 

Third Row.—Mak& 1 tr in the second tr, 1 tr in the third tr, * 2 ch, 3 tr 
under 2 ch of the last row; repeat from the star four timeg, 3 ch; turn. 

The fourth, sixth and eighth rows are like the second ; the fifth and 
seventh are like the third. 

Ninth ^ow.— Make 1 tr in the second tr, 1 tr in the third tr, * 2 ch, 3 tr 
under 2 ch of the last row; repeat from the star four times, 6 ch, catch be- 
tween the seventh and eighth rows, 2 ch, catch between the sixth and 
seventh rows, 15 tr under 6 ch for the beginning of the scallop; turn. 

Tenth Row. — Like the second. 

Eleventh Row. — Like the third until you reach the scallop, then make 5 
ch, catch in the fourth tr of the scallop, 5 ch, catch in the eighth tr of the 
scallop, 5 ch, catch in the twelfth tr of the scallop, 5 ch, catch between the 
fifth and sixth rows, 2 ch, catch between the fourth and fifth rows; turn. 

Twelfth Row. — Make 6 ch, then form a picot by catching back into the 
fourth from the hook, 8 ch, make a picot as before, 8 ch, make a picot, catch 
into the stitch where the first picot was made, 2 ch, catch into the third 
stitch of the first 5 ch ; repeat from the beginning until there are five of the 
long loops, then follow the directions given for the second row ; turn. 

Thirteenth Row. — Like the third. 

Fourteenth Hoio. — Like the second. 

Fifteenth Row. — Like the third until you get to the scallop, then make 
7 ch, catch into the middle picot of the first group of three picots, 7 ch, catch 
into the middle picot of the next group, and repeat all around the scallop, 
catching the last 7 ch between the first and second rows; turn. 

Sixteenth Row.— Make 1 dc, 15 tr, 1 dc in each of the loops made by 7 
ch, working a picot composed of 4 ch after every third tr of the fifteen tr's» 



Crochet Work. 223 

There will be four pioots in each small scallop. Finish the row the same as 
the second row. This finishes one scallop. 
Begin again at the first row. 

COMPOSITE LACE. 

Make a chain of 50 stitches; turn. 

First Row. — Work 4 tr in the fourth stitch from the hook, 3 ch, 1 tr ta 
each of the next twenty stitches, 3 ch, miss 3, 4 tr in the fourth stitch, 3 ch, 
miss 3, 1 tr in each of the next ten stitches, 2 ch, miss 2, 1 tr in each of the 
next four stitches, 3 ch ; turn. 

Second Bow. — Work 1 tr in the top of the second, third and fourth tr's 
of the previous row, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 8 tr's, 3 ch, 4 tr in the top 
of the first stitch of the 4 tr of the preA'ious row, 4 tr in the top of the last 
stitch of 4 tr, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next sixteen tr's, 3 ch, 4 tr 
in the first stitch of 4 tr of the previous tow, 4 tr in the last 3 ch, 3 ch; turn. 

Third Moiv. — ^Work 3 tr in the top of the first tr of the first block, 4 tr 
in the space between the two blocks, 4 tr in the top of the last tr of the last 
block, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next twelve tr's, 3 ch, 4 tr in the 
top of the first tr of the first block, 4 tr in the space between the two blocks, 
4 tr in the last tr of the last block, 3 ch, miss 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next S 
tr's, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr's, 1 tr in the first stitch of 3 ch, 3 ch;. 
turn. 

Fourth Jiow.— Work 1 tr in the second, third and fourth tr's, 2 ch, 1 tr 
in each of the next 4 tr's, 3 ch, 4 tr in the first tr of the first block, 4 tr in 
each of the spaces between the blocks, 4 tr in the last tr of the last block, 3 
ch, miss 2 tr, make 1 tr in each of the next 8 tr's, 3 ch, 4 tr in the first tr of 
the first block, 4 tr in each of the spaces between the blocks, 4 tr under 3 cb 
of the last row, 3 ch; turn. 

Fifth Bow. — Work 3 tr in the first tr of the first block, 4 tr in each of 
the spaces between the blocks, 4 tr in the last tr of the last block, 3 ch, miss. 
2 tr, 1 tr in the next 4 tr, 3 ch, 4 tr in the first tr of the first block, 4 tr in 
each space between the blocks, 4 tr in the last tr of the last block, 3 ch, miss 
2 tr, 1 tr in the next 2 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr's, 1 tr in the 
first stitch of 3 ch, 3 ch; turn. 

Sixth Bote. — Work 1 tr in each of the second, third and fourth tr's, 2 ch, 
4 tr in 2 ch and the first two stitches of 3 ch, 3 ch, 4 tr in each of the spaces 
between the blocks, 3 ch, 8 tr beginning in the second stitch of 3 ch, 3 ch, 4 
tr in each four spaces of the next square, 3 ch; turn. 

Seventh Boto. — Work 1 sc in the first space, 2 ch, 3 tr in the same space, 
4 tr in each of the next two spaces, 3 ch, 12 tr beginning in the second stitch 
of 3 ch, 3 ch, 4 tr in each of the next three spaces, 3 ch, 6 tr beginning in the 
second stitch of 3 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr's, 1 tr in the first 
stitch of 3 ch, 3ch; turn. 

Eighth Bow. — Work 1 tr in each of the second, third, and fourth tr's, 2 



224 



Home Decorative Work. 



ch, 8 tr in 6 tr^s and the first two stitches of 3 ch, 3 ch, 4 tr in each of the 
next two spaces, 3 ch, 16 tr beginning in the second sti+ch of 3 ch, 3 ch, 4 tr 
in each of the next two spaces, 3 ch; turn. 

Ninth /?ow.— Work 1 sc in the first space, 2 ch, 4 tr in the same space, 3 
ch, 20 tr beginning in the second stitch of 3 ch, 3 ch, 4 tr in the space in the 
square, 3 ch, 10 tr beginning in the second stitch of 3 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in each 
•of the next 3 tr's, 1 tr in the first stitch of 3 ch, 3 ch; turn. 
Begin again at the second row. 

"the housekeeper" lace. 
Make a chain of 17 stitches. (Fig. 152.) 

First Row. — Catch back into the ninth stitch making a slip-stitch, 3 ch, 
10 tr in the loop thus formed, turn; 5 ch, 1 tr in the last of 10 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr 
in the next tr, and so on across, turn, * 5 ch, 1 sc in 1 ch of the last row, re- 
peat from the star all the way across, 6 ch, 1 sc in the fourth stitch of the 

foundation chain, turn; 3 ch, 
10 tr in the loop thus formed, 
turn ; 5 ch, 1 tr in the last of 
10 tr, * 1 ch, 1 tr in the next 
tr; repeat all the way across, 
1 ch. 1 sc in the first of the 
foundation chain; turn. 

Second Mow. — Make 5 ch, 1 
sc in the first 1 ch of the last 
row; repeat all around the 
the scallop, 6 ch, 1 sc in the 
first point of the upper scal- 
lop, turn; 3 ch, 10 tr in the 
loop formed by the last 6 ch, 
5 ch, turn ; 1 tr between the 
last two trebles, * 1 ch, 1 tr 
Fig. 152. between the next two trebles, 

and repeat from the star all the way across, turn; 5 ch, 1 sc in 1 ch of the 
last row, * 5 ch, 1 sc in the next 1 ch and repeat from the star all the way 
across, 6 ch, 1 sc in the first point of the upper scallop; turn, 3 ch, 10 tr in 
the loop thus formed, etc. Continue until the strip is as long as you wish it, 
then make the lower edge heavier by working 5 ch, 5 sc in each 5 ch. 
For the heading work as follows: 

First i?ow).— Fasten the thread in the second little point of the upper 
scallop, 6 ch, 1 tr in the fourth point, * 4 ch, pass over one point, 1 tr in the 
next point; repeat from the star to the end of the row; turn. 

Second Mow.— Maka 4 ch, throw the thread over the hook twice, insert 
the hook in the last treble of the first row, thread over, draw through two, 
thread over, insert the hook in the second treble of the first row, * thread 




Crochet Work. 225 

over, draw through two stitches, thread over, draw through three, thread 
over, draw through two, 4 ch, 1 tr where the two parts of the double treble 
v eet, thread over twice, insert the hook in the same second treble as before, 
and repeat from the star, all the way across; turn. 

Third Bow. — Make 1 ch, 2 tr in every 4 ch of the previous row. 

HEART-AND-SHELL LACE. 

Make a chain of 73 stitches; turn. 

First Roio. — Make a shell (3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr) in the fourth stitch from the 
hook, 1 sc in the third stitch from the shell, 4 ch; repeat twice, but do not 
fasten the last shell with an sc, and make 9 ch instead of 4 ch; pass over 
thirteen stitches, 3 tr in the next, 9 ch, pass over thirteen stitches, shell in 
the next, * 4 ch, fasten with an sc in the fourth stitch from the last tr, shell 
in the next third stitch ; repeat from the star once, * 2 ch, pass over three 
stitches, 1 tr in the next; repeat from the star once, 5ch; turn. 

Second Row. — Make 1 tr in the second tr of the last row, 2 ch, 1 tr in 
each of the first 3 tr's of the shell, shell in shell, 4 ch, 1 sc in the first stitch 
of the second shell, shell in shell, 4 ch, 1 sc in the first stitch of the third 
shell, shell in shell, 8 ch, 5 tr over 3 tr making the first and last one on 
either side of it, 8 ch, * shell in shell, 1 sc in the last stitch of the shell, 4 ch; 
repeat once from the star, shell in shell, 4 ch, 1 tr in 3 ch at the end of the 
row; turn. 

Tliird Rotv. — Shell in shell, 1 sc in the last stitch of the shell, 4 ch; re- 
peat once, shell in shell, 7 ch, 7 tr over 5 tr, 7 ch, * shell in shell, 4 ch, 1 sc 
in the first stitch of the next shell; repeat from the star once, shell in shell, 
6 tr beginning in the first tr of the last half of the last shell, 2 ch, tr in tr, 2 
ch, tr in the third stitch of 5 ch, 5 ch ; turn. 

Fourth Row. — Make 1 tr in the second tr of the last row, 2 ch, 1 tr in 
each tr of the last row, * shell in shell, 1 sc in the last stitch of the shell, 4 
ch ; repeat from the star once, shell iu shell, 6 ch, 9 tr over 7 tr, 6 ch, shell 
in shell, and continue as iu the second row; turn. 

Fifth Row. — Same as the third row until the third shell is made, then 5 
ch, 11 tr over 9 tr, 5 ch, * shell in shell, 1 sc in the last stitch of the shell, 4 
ch; repeat from the star once, shell in shell, 12 tr beginning in the first tr of 
the last half of the last shell, 2 ch, tr in tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in the third stitch of 5 
ch, 5 ch; turn. 

Sixth Roto. — Same as the fourth row until the third shell is made, then 
4 ch, 13 tr over 11 tr, 4 ch, and finish as the fourth row; turn. 

Seventh Row. — Same as the third until the third shell is made, then 3 ch, 
15 tr over 13 tr, 3 ch, then the same as third again but making 18 tr in the 
point instead of 12 tr; turn. 

Eighth Row. — Same as the fourth row until the third shell is made, then 
2 cli, 17 tr over 15 tr, 2 ch, and finish as the fourth row; turn. 

Ni7it?i Roto. — Same as the third row until the third shell is made, then 2 
15 



226 Home Decorative Work. 

ch, 8 tr commencing in the first tr of the last row, 1 ch, miss 1 tr, 8 tr in the 
next 8 tr, 2 ch, shell in shell, and proceed as in the third row until the last 
shell is made, then 2 ch, 1 tr between the third and fourth tr's of the point, 
2 ch, 1 tr between the sixth and seventh, and so continue to the point, 
making 1 tr in the last tr of the point, then 2 ch, tr in tr, 2 ch, tr in the 
third stitch of 5 ch, 5 ch ; turn. 

Tenth Row. — Make 1 tr in the first tr of the last row, * 2 ch, tr in tr; re- 
peat to the shell, making ten holes, then shell in shell, and continue as in 
the fourth row until the third shell is made, 3 ch, 6 tr beginning in the 
second tr of the last row, 3 ch, miss three stitches, 6 tr in 8 tr of the last 
row, 3 ch, shell in shell, and finish as the fourth row; turn. 

Begin again at the first row, and when the lace is long enough finish the 
edge by working 1 sc, 6 tr, 1 sc in every alternate hole around the edge. 
The finer the thread used for this lace the prettier it will be. It is beauti- 
ful for white aprons made of No. 70 cotton thread. 

Novelty Braid Laces. 

SPIDER LACE. 

For this lace use fine medallion novelty braid, a fine crochet needle and 
No. 40 thread. 

First Row. — Work 3 ch, 1 dc in the first picot or loop of the braid, 1 ch, 




Fig. 153. 
1 dc in the next picot, and so continue until there is a dc in each loop of the 
first medallion, then 4 ch, 1 dc in the first picot of the next medallion, and 
repeat, putting 4 ch between each medallion, and 1 ch and 1 dc in each picot 
or loop. 

Second i2ow.— Work 3 ch, 6 tr with 2 ch between each tr in the third 
space between the dc's of the first medallion, 3 ch, fixsten with sc in the cen- 
ter of 4 ch, * 3 ch, 6 tr in the third space of the next medallion, 3 ch, lasten 
in the center of 4 ch: repeat across the braid. 



Crochet Work. 227 

Tliird Roio. — "Work 5 ch, fasten with sc in.the first 3 ch, 5 ch, fasten be- 
tween the first and second trebles, 5 ch, fasten between the next two trebles, 
and so on around the scalloj), 5 ch, fasten in 3 ch. Now put the needle 
under the next 3 ch, thread over and draw the two scallops together with a 
single crochet, 5 ch, fasten in the first space of the next scallop; repeat 
across the braid ; turn. 

For the heading: 

Fird Bow. — Same as the first row of the edge. 

Second Bow. — Work 3 ch, 1 dc in the first space between the dc's, 2 dc 
in each of the second, third, fourth and fifth spaces, 4 dc in 4 ch, 2 dc in the 
lirst si)a<^e of the next medallion; repeat all the way across. 

Tliird Bow. — Work 4 ch, miss two stitches, 1 dc in the third stitch, * 2 
ch, miss two stitches, 1 dc in the next stitch ; repeat from the star all the 
way across. 

WAVE BRAID LACE. 

To make this lace use the wide serpentine braid. 

First Bow. — Work 7 tr in the first scallop of the braid, 3 ch, (1 tr, 1 ch, 
1 tr) in the depression of the braid, 3 ch ; repeat across the braid. 

Second Boiv. — Work 5 tr over 7 tr, 3 ch, 4 tr in 1 ch, 3 ch; repeat. 

Third Bow. — ^Work 3 tr over 5 tr, 3 ch, 6 tr over 4 tr, 3 ch; repeat. 

Fourth Bow. — Work 1 tr over 3 tr, 3 ch, 10 tr over 6 tr, 3 ch; repeat. 

Fifth Bow. — Work 1 scover 1 tr, 1 ch, 18 tr over 10 tr, 1 ch; repeat. 

Sixth Bow. — Work 1 sc over 1 sc, 3 ch, pass over one stitch, 1 tr over the 
next stitch, 3 ch, 1 tr around the last tr, pass over one stitch, 1 tr over the 
next stitch, 1 tr around the last tr; repeat until there are eight of the little 
scallops over the 18 tr, 3 ch, 1 sc over 1 sc, 3 ch; repeat. 

For the heading: 

First Bow. — Work 3 sc, 4 ch, thread over twice, catch through the braid 
half waj^ between the scallop and the depression, thread over, draw through 
two, thread over, catch through the braid close to the last, thread over, draw 
through two, thread over, catch tlirough the braid again, thread over, draw 
through two, then work off all the stitches two at a time, until there is but 
one stitch on the needle; thread over twice, catch through the braid on the 
opposite side of the depression, and make a cluster of three double trebles 
as above, 4 ch ; repeat. 

Second Bote. — Work 5 ch, 1 tr over the last 3 sc's of the preceding row, 
3 ch, * make a cluster of double trebles over the stitch between the two 
clusters of the previous row, 5 ch, another cluster of double trebles in the 
same stitch, 3 ch, 1 tr in the first of 3 sc's, 2 ch, 1 tr in the last of 3 sc's, 3 
ch ; repeat from the star. 

Tliird /Zow.— Work 5 ch, * 1 tr over tr, 2 oh, 1 tr over the first cluster, 
2 ch, 1 tr in the third stitch of 5 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr over the next cluster, 2 ch; re- 
peat from the star. 



228 Home Decorative Work. 

Fourth Row. — This consists of 2 dc's in every space of the preceding 
row. 

KLSIE LACE. 

This lace is made with wide fancy l>raid, and is very pretty for aprons. 

First i?ow'.— Work 1 tr in two picots of the braid, drawing them to- 
gether, 3 ch, then work 4 tr along the 1 tr just made, 1 ch; repeat from the 
beginning of the row across the braid, fasten the thread, and begin again. 

Second Bow. — Work this like the iirst, but working the 1 tr in the last 
stitch of 3 ch, instead of into the picots; fasten the thread, and begin again. 

Third Row. — Like the second. 

Fourth Row. — Work 1 dc in the point of the first cluster of trebles, 3 ch, 
1 dc in the point of the next cluster, 2 ch, 1 tr in the same place, 3 ch ; re- 
peat. 

Fifth Roiv. — Work 8 tr under 2 ch, 5 ch; repeat. 

Sixth Row. — Work 6 tr, each separated by 3 ch, over the trebles of the 
last row, 3 ch, 1 dc in the third stitch of 5 ch, 3 ch; repeat. 

Seventh Koio. — Work 1 dc under 3 ch, 3 ch, 1 dc under the next 3 ch, 
* 4 ch, 1 dc under the next chain ; repeat from the star three times more, 3 
ch, 1 dc under the next 3 ch; repeat from the beginning of the row. 

A narrow velvet ribbon is to be run through each of the rows of holes 
between the squares of the trebles. 

FANCY BRAID LACE WITH FEATHER-EDGE SCALLOP. 

To make this lace use a fine hook and No. 40 thread. To make the in- 
sertion between the two braids, begin by fastening the thread to the first 
picot of one braid, then make a chain of seven stitches, and fasten in the 
first picot of the second piece of braid ; turn. 

First Row. — Work 2 ch, 1 tr in the second stitch of the chain, 1 ch, 1 tr 
in the fourth stitch of the chain, 3 ch, 4 tr in the same place, 1 ch, miss 
two picots and fasten with a slip-stitch in the third ; turn. 

Second Row. — Work 2 ch, 1 tr in the second of 4 tr's, 1 ch, 1 tr in the 
fourth tr, 3 ch, 4 tr in 3 ch, 1 ch, miss two picots, fasten with a slip-stitch 
in the third; turn. 

Third A'o/t;.— Work 2 ch, miss 1 tr, 1 tr in the second tr, 1 ch, 1 tr in the 
fourth tr, 3 ch, 4 tr in 3 ch, 1 ch, fasten with a slip-stitch in the third i^icot. 
Rej)eat this pattern the whole length of the l)nvid. 

For the scallop: Use feather-edge braid No. 4. Fasten the thread to 
the first iiicot of both the feather-edge and the novelty braid. 

First Row. — Work 1 ch, miss one picot of the novelty braid, 1 tr in the 
next, 1 sc in the next picot of the feather-edge braid, 2 ch, miss one picot of 
the novelty, 1 tr in the next, 3 ch, * miss two picots of the feather-edge, 1 tr 
in the next; repeat from the star six times more, 1 ch, fasten with a slip- 
stitch in the third stitch of 3 ch, * 2 ch, miss one picot of the novelty braid, 
1 tr in the next; repeat from the star once more, miss two picots of feather- 



Crochet Work. 



229 






Vv^'f; 



■^■'7' 7:^/1 '/ '/' /' '■ /■ 7 7- 7i-^^ 



edge braid, 1 sc in the next, 1 ch, miss one pieot of the feather-edge, 1 sc in 
the next, miss one picot of the novelty braid, 1 tr in the next, 2 ch, miss one 
picot, 1 tr in the next, 3 ch, miss two picots of the feather-edge, 1 tr in the 
next, miss two picots, 1 tr in the next, and repeat until there are 7 tr's with 
two picots between ; 1 ch, fasten with a slip-stitch in the third stitch of 3 ch, 
2 ch, miss one picot of the novelty braid, 1 tr in the next, 2 ch, miss one 

picot of the novelty, 1 tr in 
the next, miss two picots of 
feather-edge, 1 sc in the next. 
Kepeat the full length of the 
braid. 

Second Eoto. — Work 5 ch, 
miss one picot, 1 sc in the 
next; repeat until there are 
seven of the 5 ch's with one 
picot between; then run the 
needle through the picots 
past the place where the 
feather-edge is fastened to the 
novelty, thread over, draw the 
thread through three picots, 
put the needle through the 
next picot on the next scal- 
lop, thread over, draAv 
through three stitches (one 
picot on each scallop and tlie stitch on the needle), put the needle through 
another picot, thread over, draw through three stitches; repeat until all the 
picots on the needle are worked off in this way; 5 ch, miss one picot, 1 sc in 
the next; repeat six times, then insert the needle down through the picots, 
past the place Avhere the scallops are joined to the novelty, and work off as 
below. 

Heading: Work 2 ch, miss one picot, 1 tr in the next, 2 ch, miss one 
picot, 1 tr in the next ; repeat all the way across. 

This pattern is very pretty for little Gretchen suits, as it can be made 
■wide or narrow, as needed, by adding more braid with insertion between. 

MIGNARDISE LACE. 

Work 2 tr in the second picot on a strip of mignardise, 4 ch, pass over 
one picot, 1 dc in the next, 3 ch, 1 dc in the bar between the two patterns, 3 
ch, 1 dc in the next picot, 4 ch, pass over one picot, 2 tr in the next; repeat 
from the beginning of the row across the braid, then work another piece of 
the l)raid in the same way, joining it to the preceding row as you wojk by 
making 1 dc in the 3 ch, while working tlie ?, ch called for; that is when the 



Fig. 154. 



230 Home Decorative Work. 

directions read 3 ch, work 1 ch, 1 dc iu 3 ch on the first piece of mignardise, 
1 ch, and so on. 

For the heading: 

First Row. — Work 1 dc in the two picots in the depression of the braid, 
5 ch, pass over two picots, 1 dc in the next, 5 ch, 1 dc in the next picot. 5 
ch, jiass over two picots and repeat. 

Second Row. — Work 1 tr under 5 ch, keep the top loop on the hook, 1 tr 
under the next 5 ch, draw through all the loops on the hook together, 8 ch, 
1 dc in the third stitch of the next 5 ch, 8 ch; repeat from the beginning of 
the row. 

Third Row. — Work 1 tr iu the first stitch, 2 ch, pass over two stitches, 1 
tr in the next, and repeat. 

For the edge: 

First Row. — Work 1 tr in the two picots in the depth of the scallop, 3 ch, 
pass over two picots, 1 dc iu the next, 1 ch, 4 tr separated by 2 cli under the 
bar between two patterns, 1 ch, 1 dc in the next picot, 3 ch; repeat from the 
beginning of the row. 

Second Row. — Work 1 sc in the treble which is worked in the two picots 
together, 4 ch, 1 tr iu the first, 1 sc in the previous dc, * 5 ch, 1 tr in the 
first, 1 sc under 2 ch; repeat from the star three times more, 4 ch, 1 tr in the 
first; repeat from the beginning of the row. 

LIGHTNING LACE. 

This lace is used principally for children's clothing, and is simple and 
quickly made. A rather wide feather-edge braid is used for the purjjose, or 
a soft novelty braid Avhich looks something like the feather-edge. The latter 
is used for the lace represented in Fig. 155. 

|pp^|gg^^^^^g^^^("gg^|^^ First Row. — Work 1 sc in 

the first loop of the braid, 
* 1 dc and 4 tr, each sepa- 
rated by 1 ch in the uext, 1 
sc in the next; repeat from 
the star to the end of the 
braid. 

^'^•^^^' Heading: Work 1 sc iu 

the first loop of the braid, 3 ch, 1 dc iu the same loop, then 2 dc in each 
loop all the way across. 

SCHOOL-GIRL LACE. 
This lace is very pretty for trimming the aprous of school girls, which 
are made with square neck and short sleeves. The foundation is of honiton 
braid, which may be piarchased at any dry goods store. (See Fig. 156.) 
For the scallop : 

First Ro\o. — Work 1 sc iu the first loop of the medallion, 3 ch, 1 dc in 
the same loop, 3 ch, 2 dc in the third loop, 3 ch, 2 dc in the next loop, 3 ch, 




Crochet Work. 



231 




2 dc in the last loop of the medallion, 3 ch, 1 sc around the bar between the 
first and second medallion, 3 ch, 2 dc in the first loop of the second medal- 
lion, and repeat across the braid. 

Second i?o!('.— Work 1 sc in the top of the first dc of medallion, 3 ch, 1 
so in 3 ch between the first and third loop of the medallion, 3 dc in the same 
chain, 1 sc in the same, 1 sc in the top of dc in the third loop, 1 sc in 3 ch 

Ijetween the second and third 
dc, 3 dc in the same chain, 
1 sc in the same loop, 1 sc in 
the top of the next dc, 1 sc 
in the third and last chain 
of the medallion, 3 dc in the 
same chain, 1 sc in sc in the 
top of the last dc, 1 sc in the 
Fig. 156. top of the first dc of the 

second medallion, the same as in the first. 
For the heading: 

First i?oi<;.— Work 1 sc in the first loop of the medallion, 3 ch, 1 dc in 
the same loop, 3 ch, 2 dc in the third loop, 3 ch, 2 dc in the fourth loop, 3 
<;h, 2 dc in the last loop, 2 dc in the first loop of the next medallion, and re- 
peat as for the first one. 

Second Jiotv.—Woila 1 sc in the top of the first dc, 5 ch, 1 dc between 
the first and second dc of the first row, 2 ch, 1 dc between the second and 
third, 2 ch, 1 dc between the third and fourth, repeating across the lace. 

TURKEY-TAIL LACE. 

This is worked with fine thread on straight braid having open-work 
edges. The cotton must be broken off at the end of each row, and all rows 
begun at the same end, in order to keep the work on the right side. 

First Jiotv. — Work 1 dc in a hole at the edge, 7 ch, pass over five holes, 
work 1 dc in the next, and repeat to the end of the braid. 

Second Row. — Work 1 dc in the fourth stitch of 7 ch, 7 tr in the next dc, 
1 dc in the fourth stitch of the next 7 ch, * 7 ch, 1 dc in the fourth stitch of 
the next 7 ch ; repeat from the star four times more, then repeat from the 
beginning of the row. 

Third Mow. — Work 1 dc in the center of 7 tr, 7 tr in the next dc, 1 dc in 
the center of 7 ch, 7 ch; 1 dc in the next 7 ch, 5*ch, .5 tr imder the next 7 ch, 
5 ch, 1 dc in the next 7 ch, 7 ch, 1 dc in the next 7 ch, 7 tr in the next dc; 
repeat from the beginning of the row. 

Fourth Jiow. — Work 7 tr in the first dc of the last row, 1 dc in the center 
of^he next cluster of trebles, 7 ch, 1 dc in the center of the next 7 ch, 7 tr in 
the next dc, 1 dc in the fourth stitch of 5 ch, 8 ch, 1 dc in the third stitch of 
the next 5 ch, 7 tr in the next dc, 1 dc in the fourth stitch of the next 7 ch, 



232 Home Decorative Work. 

7 ch, 1 dc in the center of the next cluster of trebles; repeat from the be- 
ginning of the row. 

Fifth Row. — Work 1 dc in the center of 7 tr, 7 ch, 1 dc in the fourth 
stitch of 7 ch, 7 tr in the next dc, 1 dc in the center of 7 tr, 3 ch, 4 tr in 
each of the two center stitches of the next 8 ch, 3 ch, 1 dc in the center of" 7 
tr, 7 tr in the next dc, 1 dc in the center of 7 ch, 7 ch; repeat from the be- 
ginning of the row. 

Sixth Bow. — Work 1 dc in the fourth stitch of 7 ch, 7 tr in the next dc, 
1 dc in the center of the next 7 tr, 3 ch, 5 tr over the 4 tr of the last row, 1 
ch, 5 tr over the next 4 tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in the next 7 tr, 7 tr in the. next dc, 1 
dc in the fourth stitch of 7 ch, 7 ch; repeat from the beginning of the row. 

Seventh Row. — Work 7 tr in the first dc, 1 dc in the center of 7 tr, 3 ch, 

7 tr over 5 tr, 2 ch, 7 tr over 5 tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in 7 tr, 7 tr in the next dc, 1 dc 
in the center of the next 7 ch ; repeat from the beginning of the row. 

Eighth Row. — Work 7 tr in the first dc, 1 dc in the center of 7 tr, ?> ch, 

8 tr each separated by 1 ch over the 7 tr of the last row, 3 ch, 8 tr each sepa- 
rated by 1 ch over the next 7 tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in 7 ch ; repeat from the begin- 
ning of the row. 

Ninth Row. — Work 1 dc in the center of 7 ch, 3 ch, 9 tr each separated 
by 1 ch over 8 tr, 3 ch, 9 tr each separated by 1 ch over the next 8 tr, 3 ch; 
repeat from the beginning of the row. 

Tenth How. — Work 1 dc over tlie dc of the last row, 21 tr each sepa- 
rated by 1 ch over the two groups of trebles, 1 ch; repeat from the begin- 
ning of the row. 

Eleventh Row. — Work 1 dc over the dc of the last row, 1 ch, 1 dc under 
the first chain between the trebles, then 3 ch, 1 dc in every 1 ch around the 
scallop, 1 ch; repeat from the beginning of the row. 

Heading: Work 1 tr in a hole of the braid, keeping the top loop on the 
hook, pass over one hole, work 1 tr in the next, work off all the loops on the 
hook, 2 ch, pass over one hole, and repeat. 

NOVELTY EICK-RACK. 

This is novelty braid worked up with needle and threaxi similar to ordi- 
nary rick-rack, and can be made of any width. (Fig. 157.) 

Count fifteen loops and sew the first and fifteenth loops together, then 
the second and fourth, which forms the wheel. Put your needle in the first 
loop toward the left and wind the thread around the needle twice; draw the 
needle through and draw up quite tight. Put the needle in each loop the same 
way, winding the threatl around twice, and then catch up every stitch with 
the needle, drawing up the thread.s, which forms a circle; make a button- 
hole stitch to hold it firmly; put the needle around the thread from the first 
loop twice, sew through the loop, fasten the thread and break off. A simi- 
lar result may be olrtained by crochetting the braid instead of working it 
with needle and threjul. It is quite as pretty, and more quickly done. 



Crochet Work. 



233 



AMY LACE. 
This lace is made Avith honitou braid and No. 40 thread. 
First Roil'. — Work 1 dc over the bar between two patterns of the braid, 
15 ch, 2 tr in the thii-d picot of the next pattern; keep the top loops on the 
hook and draw all the stitches through together, and follow this plan when- 
ever you make a group of 2 tr's; pass over one picot, 2 tr in the next, 2 
double trebles in the second and tliird picots of the next pattern, working 

through both picots, at the 
same time, 2 doul)le trelilts 
in the third and fourth 
picots, 2 tr in the second 
picot of the next pattern, pass 
over one picot, 2 tr in the 
next, 3 ch, join to the twelfth 
stitch of the 15 ch, 11 ch; re- 
peat from the beginning of the 
row. 

Second A'otw.— Work 1 tr in 
the first stitch, 1 ch, pass over 
one stitch, 1 tr in the next, 
and repeat to the end of the 
row. 

Third iiow.— Work 1 dc 
under 1 ch, 5 ch, pass over 
three stitches, 1 dc in the 
next, and repeat. 

Fourth Row. — Work 1 dc 
in the third stitch of 5 ch, 3 
ch, 1 dc in the third stitch of 
the next 5 ch, and repeat. 
For the edge: 

First Roiv. — Work 1 dc in 
the two picots in the depth 
of the scallop, working 
Fig. 157. through both at the same 

time, 3 ch, pass over one picot, 1 dc in the next, 3 ch, 1 dc under the 
bar between two patterns, 3 ch, 1 dc in the next picot, 3 ch, 1 dc in two 
picots together, 3 ch, 1 dc in two picots together, 3 ch, 1 dc in the next 
picot, 3 ch, 1 dc under the bar, 3 ch, 1 dc in the next picot, 3 ch; repeat 
from the beginning of the row. 

Second Row.— ^york 1 dc under the first 3 ch of the last row, * 6 ch, 1 
dcinthe next 3 ch, 1 ch, 1 dc under the next 3 ch; repeat from the star 
seven times more, then repeat from the beginning of the row. 




234: Home Decokative Work. 

EASY LACE. 

This lace is worked with fine honitou braid, and No. 40 tlnead. 

First Row. — Fasten the thread in the lirst picot of tlie braid, 5 eh, miss 
one picot, fasten with sc in the ne.\t picot, 5 ch, miss one picot, fasten Avith 
so in tlie next, 3 ch, 5 double trebles with 2 ch between in the space between 
the medallions, 3 ch, fasten with sc in the lirst picot of the next medallion, 
5 ch, miss one picot, fasten with sc in the next, 5 ch, miss one picot, fasten 
with sc in the next, put the hook through the next picot and through the 
first picot of the next medallion, thread over, draw through both picots, 
bringing them close together and fastening them with an sc; put the needle 
through the next picot, thread over, draw through all three stitches and 
fasten as before; 5 ch, miss one picot, fasten with an sc in the next, and so 
continue, working the groups of 5 double trebles in every alternate space be- 
tween the medallions for the point of the scallop. 

Second Row. — Work 1 sc, 1 dc, 2 tr, 1 dc, 1 sc in every one of the spaces 
around the scallop, giving it a heavy edge of little scallops. 

For the heading: 

First Row. — Fasten the thread in the first picot, 2 ch, 1 dc in the same 
place, miss one picot, 2 dc in the next, miss two picots, thread over twice, 
put the needle through the last picot and the first picot on the next medal- 
lion, thread over and draw through the picots bringing them firmly to- 
gether, thread over and finish as a treble; make two more trebles in the 
space formed by drawing the picots together between the medallions, 2 dc in 
the next picot, miss one picot, 2 dc in the next, 2 ch, 1 dc in the center of the 
bar between the medallions, 2 ch, 2 dc in the first picot of the next medal- 
lion, and proceed as before. 

Second Row. — Work 4 ch, miss two stitches, 1 tr in the next, 2 ch, miss 
two, 1 tr in the next, 1 tr in each double treble of the previous row, 2 ch, 
miss two, 1 tr in the next, and continue across, always putting 1 tr over 
each double treble. 

TJtird Row. — This is like the second, except that 5 tr's are Ayorked over 
the 3 tr's, and one less tr and 2 ch are worked on either side of the group of 
tr's. 

Fourth Roiv. — Like the third, except that 7 tr's are worked over the 5 
tr's, with one less tr and 2 ch on either side of the group of tr's. 

Fifth Row. — Work 1 tr in each stitch all the way across. 

CROCHETTED FEATHEK-EDGE BRAID. 

Outside Row. — Join in tlie first picot r.nd work 1 sc in each of tlie next six 
picots, 10 ch, 1 tr in the fourth stitch of the 10 ch, miss four picots on the 
braid, 3 tr in the next picot, * miss five picots, 3 tr in the next; repeat from 
the star three times, then 1 sc in the first tr made; 7 ch, 1 sc in the fourth 
stitch of the 10 ch, 3 ch, miss four picots, 1 sc in each of the next four picots, 
diiiAV through the second sc worked ontiie braid, 1 sc in the next ]iicot, draw 



Crochet Work. 235 

the stitch through the fii-st sc Avorked in tlie l)raid, 1 sc iu the next picot; 1 
ch, and 1 sc in the next picot three times, 2 ch, 1 sc in the next picot, 3 ch, 
1 sc in the next, 5 ch, 1 dc in the second of the 5 ch, 1 ch, miss one picot, 1 
sc in the next, * 5 ch, 1 dc in the second of the 5 ch, 1 ch, miss one picot, 1 
sc in the next; repeat from the star three times more, 3 ch, 1 sc iu the next, 
1 ch, 1 sc in the next, 1 ch, 1 sc in each of the next seven picots. 

Repeat from the first 10 ch, joining each scallop as you work. Fasten 
the thread securely, then join to the picot on the uuworked side of the braid 
just over the center of the first star worked for the inside row of crochet. 

Inside Bow. — Work 1 dc in the middle picot of the braid, 1 ch, 1 dc in 
the next, 1 ch, 1 dc in the next, * 13 ch, miss three picots, 1 sc in each of the 
next two picots, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next, 2 ch, 1 sc in the next, 7 ch, miss two 
picots, 1 sc in the third stitch of the 10 ch, 1 tr in the fifth stitch, mi.ss four 




Fiu. 15» 

picots, 3 tr iu the next, * miss five picots, 3 tr in the next ; repeat from the 
star three times, 1 sc in the last stitch of the 10 ch, 7 ch, 1 sc in the fifth 
stitch of the 10 ch, 4 ch, miss four picots, 1 sc in the next, 4 ch, 1 sc iu the 
third stitch of the first 7 ch, 2 ch, miss two picots, 1 sc iu tlie next 2 ch, 1 sc 
in the next picot, draw through the next chain in the braid at the beginning 
of the sc^allop, 2 ch, miss one picot, 1 sc in the next, 1 ch, 1 sc in each of the 
next 5 ch, 1 sc in the eighth stitch of the 13 ch (worked after first joining the 
thread to the braid), 7 ch, miss three picots, 1 dc in the next; then 1 ch, 1 dc 
in the next, four times, and repeat from the first star in this row. 

Heading: Work 1 tr iu the first dc Avorked in the last row, 1 ch, luiss 
one stitch, 1 tr over the next. Repeat this until the seventh stitch of the 13 
ch, work 1 tr in this, miss the next stitch of the 13 ch, and continue as be- 
fore. (See Fig. 158.) 



236 



Home Decorative Work. 



CROCHETTED POIXT LACE. 

Use linen thread Xo. 100 and a fine crochet needle. Thi.s pattern re- 
quires three lengths of honiton braid. (Fig. 159.) 

Fasten the thread in the first picot, 3 ch, miss one picot, 1 dc in the 
next, 1 ch, miss one picot, 1 dc in the next, 1 ch, miss one picot; put tliet 
needle through the last picot of the niedallion and the first one of the next, 
thread* over, and fasten with a dc, miss one picot, 1 dc in the next, 1 ch, 
miss one, 1 dc in the next, 1 ch, miss one, 1 dc in the next, 1 dc in the first 
picot of the opposite medallion on the other piece of braid, 1 ch, miss one, 1 
dc in the next, 1 ch, miss one, 1 dc in the next; thread over, put the needle 
through the last and first picots as before, draw^ together and fasten with a. 
dc, miss one picot, 1 dc in the next, 1 ch, miss one, 1 dc in the next, 1 ch, 

miss one, 1 dc in the next; fastea 
to the first dc on the opposite me- 
dallion; 7 ch, fasten between the 
last two dc's on the other end of 
the diamond, 3 ch, 1 dc in the 
space between the medallions, 1 
dc in the opposite space on the 
other length of braid, 3 ch, 1 dc 
in the first picot of the next me- 
dallion, 1 ch, miss one, 1 dc in 
the next, 1 ch, miss one, 1 dc in 
the next; thread over, put the 
needle through the last and first 
picots as before, thread over, draw 
together and fasten with a dc; re- 
peat. 

For the edge: 

Fig. 159. First Row. — Fasten the thread 

in the first picot, 5 ch, miss one, 1 sc in the next, 5 ch, miss one picot, 1 sc 
in the next, 3 ch, 4 tr Avith 2 ch between in the space between the medal- 
lions; 3 ch, 1 sc in the first picot, 5 ch, miss one, 1 sc in the next, 5 di, mi.ss 
one, 1 sc in the next; put the needle through the last two picots and the first 
two on the next medallion, draw the thread through all four picots, and 
fasten with a dc; 5 ch, miss one, 1 sc in the next, 5 ch, miss one, 1 sc in the 
next, 3 ch, 4 tr with 2 ch between in the space, 3 ch, fasten in tl>e next 
picot; repeat. 

Second Bow. — Work 5 ch, fosten in the first 5 ch, 5 ch, fasten in the next 
5 ch, 5 ch in each 2 ch betAveeu the tr's, 5 ch, fasten in 3 ch, .'> ch, fasten in 
5 ch, 5 ch, put your needle through the last and first 5 ch, draw together 
and fasten with an sc; rei>eat. 




Crochet WopwK. '231 

For the heading. 

First /2oR'.— Work 5 ch, miss one picot, 1 dc in the next, 1 ch, miss one, 
1 dc in the next, 1 ch, miss one, put your needle through the last and first 
picots, thread over, fasten Avith dc, 1 ch, miss one, 1 dc in the next, 1 ch, 
miss one, 1 dc in the next, 1 ch, miss one, 1 dc in the next, 2 ch, 1 dc in the 
space, 2 ck, 1 dc in the next picot. 

Second £ow. — Work 2 ch, 2 dc in the first space, 2 dc in the next space, 
3 dc in 2 ch; repeat, putting 2 dc in each 1 ch, and 3 dc in each 2 ch. 

Third Bow. — Work 4 ch, miss 2 dc, 1 dc in the next, 2 ch, miss two, 1 dc 
in the next; repeat. 

This can be made as wide as desired, by adding lengths of braid. 

KANSAS LACE. 

This is made with the finest feather-edge braid, and No. 70 thread. 

First How. — Fasten the thread in the first picot of the braid, 1 sc in each 
•of the next six picots, 6 ch, pass over four picots, 1 double treble in each of 
the next eight picots, and repeat from the beginning until you have a strip 
iibout a third longer than you wish the finished lace to be. 

Second Bow. — Make 3 ch, 1 tr, 1 ch between each of the single crochets of 
the pi-evious row, 5 ch, throw the thread over the needle twice, put the hook 
under the first 6 ch of the previous row, crochet the stitches off until but two 
are left on the hook, throw the thread over once, put the hook under thb 
second 6 ch, crochet all the stitches off, 2 ch, 1 tr in the hole just made, 5 ch, 
repeat from the beginning of the row, 2 ch; turn. 

Third Bow. — Make 1 tr in each of the next three stitches, 3 ch, pass ovei 
three stitches, 1 tr in each of the next three stitches, and so continue across 
the row; turn. 

Fourth Bow. — Make 3 tr in 3 ch of the previous row, 3 ch, 3 tr in the 
next 3 ch, and so continue across the row; turn. 

The fifth and sixth rows are like the fourth. This finishes the heading. 

For the edge: 

First Boio. — Fasten the thread in the first picot of the braid, 1 double 
treble in each of the next five picots. These double trebles must come ex- 
actly under the six single crochets of the heading. In making the double 
trebles the last loop of each stitch must be left on the needle and all drawn 
into one stitch at the last; 3 ch, pass over four picots, 1 tr, 1 ch in each of the 
next nine picots, 3 ch, pass over four picots, and repeat from the beginning 
of the row; fasten the thread and begin again. 

Second Bow. — Make 3 tr under the first 1 ch of the scallop, leaving the 
last loop of each tr on the hook, and drawing all through together, 3 ch, 2 tr 
back in the space between the 3 tr just made and the 5 tr of the previous 
row; now make 3 tr under the second 1 ch of the scallop, drawing all the 
stitches into one as before, 3 ch, 2 tr in the space between the 3 tr just made 
and the 2 tr of the previous row. Eepeat until there are eight of the 3 tr's 



238 Home Decorative Work. 

and seven of the 2 tr's in the scallop, then make 1 ch, and begin the 3 tr's 
in the next scallop; repeat across the lace and fasten. 

LACE AVITH DAISY-LEAF EDGE. 

This lace is made with No. 50 thread, and the honiton braid having a 
medallion pattern. 

First Bow. — Work a daisy leaf in each of the six picots of each medal- 
lion. Make 3 ch between each daisy leaf across the medallion, but no chain 
stitches between the leaves which connect the medallions. To make the 
daisy leaf, work three long trebles in each picot, leaving the last stitch of 
each on the hook and drawing all through together. To make the long 
trebles, throw the thread over three times, instead of twice as is usually 
done. 

Second Bow. — Make 4 ch, 1 tr in the first 3 ch between the medalltons, 2 
ch, 1 tr in the next 3 ch, 2 ch, 5 tr with 2 ch between in the third 3 ch, 2 ch, 
1 tr in the fourth 3 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in the fifth 3 ch, put the needle through 
the first 3 ch of the next medallion, thread over, and draw the two medal- 
lions firmly together, fastening with a slip-stitch; then 2 ch, 1 tr in the 
second 3 ch of the second medallion, 2 ch, 5 tr in the third 3 ch, and so con- 
tinue all the way across. 

Tliird Bow. — Make 1 dc, 2 tr, 1 dc in each 2 ch of the previous row. 

For the heading: 

First Bow. — Fasten the thread and make 1 tr in each of the six picots of 
the first medallion, separating the 1 tr's by 1 ch. Keep the stitch of the 
last tr on the hook, make 1 long tr in the space between the last tr and the 
bar joining the two medallions. There are now two stitches on the hook. 
Make 1 long tr close to the bar on the next medallion. There are now three 
stitches on the hook. Make 1 tr in the first picot, draw all the stitches on 
the hook into one stitch, make 1 ch, and so continue to the end of the row. 

Second Bow. — Make 1 tr, 1 ch over the first 5 tr of the last row, make a 
shell (3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr) in the space over the bar between the medallions, * 1 
ch, 1 tr over the middle 4 tr of the next medallion, 1 ch, shell over the bar 
between the two medallions; repeat from the star to the end of the row. 

Third Bow. — Make 1 tr, 1 ch over the 1 tr's of the last row, shell in 
shell, and so continue to the end of the row. 

Fourth Bow. — Like the third. 

NOVELTY SCALLOP LACE. 

Two rows of narrow novelty braid are used for this pattern. (Fig. 160.) 
To make the top edge, fasten the thread in the first loop, 3 ch, dc in the 

same loop, 2 dc in the next loop, same in the next, and in each succeeding 

loop until you ci'ochet the length of the braid. 

On the opposite side of the braid, fasten the thread into the first loop, 3 

ch and 2 dc in the same loop, 5 ch, 3 dc in the third loop (skipping one 

loop), 5 ch, 3 dc in the fifth loop, and so on across the braid, skipping one 



Crochet Work. 



23^ 



loop each time; then take another piece of braid the same length, fasten the 
thread in the first loop, 3 ch and 2 dc in the same loop, 2 ch and fasten in 
the third or middle stitch of the first chain of the piece just finished, with 
single crochet, 2 ch and 3 dc in the third loop of the last piece, skipping one 
loop as in the first piece, 2 ch and sc in the third stitch of the next chain of 
the opposite side, thus fasteuiug.the two braids together. 

To make the scallop, fasten 
the thread in the first loop of 
the bottom edge, 1 sc, 1 ch, 1 tr 
in the third loop (skipping one 
loop), 1 ch, 1 tr in the same 
loop, repeating six times, 1 ch 
and 1 sc in the fifth loop, 
skipping one ; turn your work, 
4 ch and 1 sc between the first 
and second of the seven long 
stitches, 4 ch, 1 sc between the 
second and third, 8 tr, until 
you get to the other side of the 




Fig. 160. 



scallop, fastening witli a dc in the first chain or starting point; turn the 
work, 4 ch and 1 dc in the first chain, 4 ch, 1 dc in the next chain, and so on 
around the scallop; after fastening in the last chain, 2 ch and fasten in the 
first loop of the braid, and j-ou have one scallop finished. 

A pretty narrow edge can be made by using one row of braid with the 
same scallop and crochetting an edge on the other side for a heading. 

FAIRY LACE. 

This is one of the most beautiful of all the laces made with novelty 
braid. It is especially pretty for the dresses of little children. It is made 
of No. 90 thread, and a fine braid having three small medallions like the 
honiton braid, then a strip of feather-edge braid of about the same length as 
the thi'ee medallions, then another strip of the medallions. Begin by fast- 
ening the thread in the leather-edge braid. 

First Row. — Make 1 sc in the fifth loop of the feather-edge braid, 5 ch, 
1 sc in the third loop, 7 ch, 1 sc in the first loop of the first medallion, 7 ch, 
1 sc in the last loop of the medallion, 7 ch, 1 sc in the first loop of the next 
me<lallion, and so continue until you reach the feather-edge braid again, 5 ch, 
pass over one picot of the feather-edge braid, 3 tr in the next, 5 ch, pass 
over two picots of feather-edge, 3 tr in the next, and so continue until the me- 
dallions are reached again. There will be four groups of the 3 tr's across the 
feather-edge braid. "Work across the next three medallions with 7 ch and 1 
sc as before. 

The next strip of feather-edge braid forms the scallop. * Make 7 ch, 
form a ijicot by catching back into the second stitch of the chain just made, 



240 Home Decorative Work. 

2 ch, pass over one picot of feather-edge braid and fasten with a slip-stitch 
in the next, and continue from the star across the feather-edge braid, then 
work across two strips of honiton and one of feather-edge as before. The 
next strip of feather-edge forms the top of the lace, and after the last 
7 ch is fastened in the last picot of honiton braid, proceed as follows: Make 1 
ch, pass over one picot, 1 tr in the next, and so continue until you reach the 
last picot of the feather-edge braid, which will then be drawn in a half 
circle. Now * make 3 ch, fasten with so in the middle of 7 ch opposite, 3 
ch, pass over three picots of the medallion, fasten with sc in the next; re- 
peat from the star across the medallions, * 2 ch, fasten in the center of 5 ch 
opposite, 2 ch, pass over one picot, 3 tr in the next; repeat from the star 
across the feather-edge, work across medallions as before, then work across 
the next feather-edge for the scallop. Work in this way until the lace is as 
long as desired; the scallops will all be connected, but there will be no work 
on the inside to hold the inner edges of the braid together. Commence at 
the beginning again, and work as before until you come to the inside of the 
scallop, then work an sc in nine of the middle picots of the feather-edge 
braid, and work toward the top of the scallop, fastening the 2 ch's in the 5 
ch's, and the 3 ch's in the 7 ch's. When the top of the braid is reached, 
* make 5 ch, pass over one picot in the feather-edge braid, fasten with sc in 
the next, and repeat from the star until the next medallion is reached. Any 
heading preierred may be put on this lace. 

FANCY LACE. 

Take a piece of braid the length reciuired. (Fig. 161.) 
First i?ow.— Fasten the thread in the first picot, 4 ch, 1 dc in the next 
picot, 2 ch, 1 dc in the next; repeat across the braid. 

Second Bow. — Work 3 ch, 
miss one space, 6 tr separated 
by 2 ch in the next space, 3 
ch, miss one space and fasten 
with sc in the next space, 3 
ch, miss one space, 6 tr sepa- 
rated by 2 ch in the next, 3 ch, 
miss one space, fasten with sc 
Fig. 161. in the next space; repeat 

across the braid. 

Tltird Row. — Work 5 ch, fasten with sc in 3 ch, 5 ch, fasten in 2 ch be- 
tween the first and second tr's, 5 ch, fasten in the next 2 ch, 5 ch, fasten in 
the next 2 ch, 5 ch, fasten in the next 2 ch, 5 ch, fasten in the next 2 ch, 5 
ch, fasten in 3 ch, put the needle through the next 3 ch, thread over, and 
draw through. Draw the scallops closely together and fasten with an sc; 
repeat acrosa the braid. 




Crochet Work. 241 

DOUGHNUT LACE. 

Two kinds of straight novelty braid are used for this lace. Be snre, 
when purchasing it, that the picots on each kind are I he same distance apart. 
Use the heavier braid for the upper row. The crochetted part of the lace 
consists of two rows of wheels, with a row of braid for the heading, and one 
row between the wheels. The wheels each have a large hole in the center 
with a heavy edge around it, giving them the appearance of the doughnuts 
cut out with a cutter made for the purpose. 

First Roto. — To make the wheels, first wind the thread twenty -five 
times around a common lead pencil ; slip it oflf carefully, put the thread 
aiound the needle, make 4 ch, thread over the needle, and make a stitch 
aiound the circle similar to a treble. Instead, however, of crochetting off 
1 wo stitches at first, draw the thread through all but one, and make it as 
(dose as possible to the ccrter, as that is what gives the heavy look. Kepeat 
this thirty-five times, then fasten with a single crochet to the first stitch 
made. Now make 5 ch, pass over two trebles, fasten with 1 sc in the next 
stitch, and so continue all around the scallop when you should have four- 
teen of the little loops, then fasten securely, and break the thread. 

Second Row. — Make the second wheel the same as the first until there 
are eleven of the little loops around the outer edge, then make 2 ch, fasten 
with an sc in the center of one of the loops of the last wheel, 2 ch, fasten 
with an sc in the last wheel, and so continue, thus joining the two wheels 
by three loops. Continue until the wheels are as long as the strips of braid. 

Third Row. — Fasten the thread in the first picot of the braid, 2 ch, 
fasten with an sc in the fourth little loop of the wheel from the loops joining 
the wheels, 2 ch, pass over one picot in the braid and fasten with an sc in 
the next, 2 ch, fasten in the next loop of the wheel, and so continue, fast- 
ening four loops of each wheel to the braid. When the wheels are fastened 
tg each piece of the braid, fasten the lower wheels to the upper strip of 
braid in the same manner. 

Fourth Rote. — Finish the lower edge of the lace, by making 5 ch and 
fastening it with an sc in every loop along the lower part of each wheel. 

Fifth Row. — Make 1 dc, 2 tr, 1 dc in every loop made by the last row. 

Heading: Fasten the thread in the upper row of braid; 2 ch, pass over 
one picot, 1 tr in the next, and so continue all the way across. 

POINTED-SCALLOP NOVELTY LACE. 

Fasten the thread to the first picot of the braid. (See Fig. 1G2.) 

First Row. — Work 5 ch, * 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr, 2 ch; repeat from the star for 
the length required. 

Second Row. — Work 7 dc, 9 ch; repeat. 

Third Row. — Work 5 dc over the seven of the last row, 6ch, 1 dc in the 
middle of 9 ch, 6 ch; rei^eat. 
16 



242 



Home Decorative AVork. 



Fourth How. — "Work 3 dc ovei' the five of the last row, 4 ch, 5 dc, 4 ch; 
repeat. 

Fifth Row. — Work 1 dc, 4 ch, 7 dc, 4 ch ; repeat. 
Sixth Row. — Work 9 ch, 5 dc ; repeat. 

Seventh Row. — Work 6 ch, 1 dc over 9 ch, 6 ch, 3 dc; repeat. 
Eighth Row.— Work 6 ch, 1 dc; repeat. 

Ninth Row. — Work 7 dc, 5 tr, 5 ch, catch back into first to form a pxcot, 
5 tr, 7 dc; repeat. 
For the heading: 

First Row. — Fasten the thread to the braid, 6 ch, thread over the needle, 

insert hook in second picot of 
braid, thread over, draw 
through two stitches, thread 
over, insert the hook in the next 
picot but one, thread over, draw 
through two, thread over, draw 
through three ; repeat from the 
beginning. 

Second Row. — W^ork 7 ch, 1 
dc over each 6 ch of the pre- 
vious row. 

Third Row. — Work 3 tr over 
each 7 ch of the previous row, 4 
ch; repeat. 

Fourth Row. — Work 3 dc 
Fig. 162. Qygj, gach 3 tr, 3 dc over each 4 

ch of the third row. 




FEATHEK-EDGE BRAID LACE. 

Use fine feather-edge braid. No. 50 thread and a fine steel hook. 

Fasten the thread in a picot near the end of the braid, 5 ch, miss two 
picots, 1 tr in each of the next six picots, * 3 ch, miss three picots, put the 
hook through the fourth picot and draw the thread through, leave on the 
hook, miss three picots, repeat; then throw the thread over and draw 
through the three stitches on the hook, 3 ch, miss three picots, 1 tr in each of 
the next six picots, 2 ch, sc in the third of 5 ch, 2 ch, miss two picots, sc ia 
next picot, sc in picot on the opposite edge of the braid. 

Then 5 ch, miss two picots, 1 tr, miss one picot, 1 tr, until you have 8 tr 
with one picot between, 2 ch, sc in the third stitch of 5 ch, 2 ch, miss two 
picots, sc in the next, sc in picot on the opposite edge of the braid, 5 ch, miss 
two picots, 1 tr in each of the next six picots, taking up also six picots on 
the opposite edge of the braid from last 6 tr of the first point. Kepeat from 
the star, fasten first 3 tr of the 8 tr with one picot between to the first seal- 



Crochet Work. 



243 




lop by takiiiff np ('()nosiion(lin<i loops opposite to the last 3 tr of the first 
scallop. 

JIEDALLION BRAID LACE. 
Take a piece of metlalliou gimp braid, the required length, spool cotton 
No. 36 and medium-sized crochet needle. (See Fig. 163. J 

Firxt Jlow. — AVork 3 cli, 1 tr in the second picot, 1 eh, 1 tr in the third, 
picot; repeat all the way across the braid, putting 1 ch, 1 tr in each picot. 
Second lioto. — Work 5 ch, miss one space, 1 sc in the next, 5 ch, miss 

one space, 1 sc in the next, 5 
ch, miss one space, 1 sc in the 
next, 7 ch, miss two spaces, 1 
sc in the next; repeat across, 
putting three 5 ch's between 
each 7 ch. 

Tfiird Row. — Work 5 ch, 1 sc 
in fii-st 5 ch,. 5 ch, 1 sc in the 
next 5 ch, 3 ch, 8 tr in 7 ch, 3 
ch, 1 sc in the next 5 ch, 5 ch, 
1 sc in the next 5 ch, 5 ch, 1 sc 
Fig. 163. iu the next 5 ch, 3 ch, 8 tr in 

7 ch, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next 5 ch. 

Fourth Row. — Work 5 ch, 1 sc in the first 5 ch, 5 ch, 1 sc in the next 5 
ch, 3 ch, 8 tr in 8 tr, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next 5 ch, 5 ch, 1 sc in the next 5 ch, 
3 ch, 8 tr in 8 tr; repeat across. 

Fifth Row. — Work 5 ch, fasten iu the first 5 ch, 3 ch, 8 tr in 8 tr (each 
separated by 1 ch), 3 ch, fasten in the next 5 ch, 3 ch, 8 tr in 8 tr (each sep- 
arated by 1 ch) ; repeat across. 

Sixth Row. — Work 5 ch, fosten with sc in first tr, 5 ch, 1 sc in next tr, 
.5 ch, 1 sc in next tr; repeat at^'ross. 

GRANDMA GARFIELD LACE. 

Use fine feather-edge braid and No. 90 thread. 

Fasten the thread in the first picot of braid, 6 ch, miss three picots, 1 sc 
in the next, 6 ch, miss three picots, 1 sc in the next, 6 ch, miss three picots, 
1 sc in the next, 6 ch, 1 tr in each of the next six picots, 6 ch, miss three 
picots, 1 tr iu each of the next six picots, 6 ch, miss three picots, 1 sc iu the 
next, 6 ch, miss three picots, 1 sc iu the next, 6 ch, miss three picots, 1 tr in 
each of the next six picots, 6 ch, miss three picots, 1 tr in each of the next 
six picots, 6 ch, miss three picots, 1 sc in each of the next sixteen picots, 3 
ch, 1 scin last 6 ch mentioned above, 3 ch, miss three picots, 1 tr in each of 
the next six picots, 3 ch, 1 sc in the middle of 6 ch between the clusters of 
tr's, 3 ch, miss three picots, 1 tr in each of the next six picots, 3 ch, 1 sc in 
opjiosite 6 ch, 3 ch, miss three picots, 1 sc in the next, 3 ch, 1 sc in opiwsiue 
6 ch, 3 ch, miss three picots, 1 sc in next, 3 ch, 1 sc in opposite 6 ch, 3 ch, 1 



2U 



Home Decorative \^^ork. 



tr iu each of the next six picots, 3 ch, 1 sc in opposite 6 ch, 3 ch, miss three 
pieots, 1 tr in each of the next six picots, 3 ch, 1 sc in opposite 6 ch, 3 ch, 
miss three picots, 1 sc in the next, 3 ch, 1 sc in opposite 6 ch, 3 ch, miss 
three picots, 1 sc in the next, 3 ch, 1 sc in opix»site 6 ch, 3 ch, miss three 
picots, 1 sc in the next, 3 ch, 1 sc in opposite 6 ch, 3 ch, miss three picots, 1 
sc in the next. This finishes one scallop. 

Then fold the braid back smoothly against the edge of the scallop, and 
with the hook pick up one picot on each side of the braid, draw the thread 
through, leaving the loop on the hook, and repeat until the 16 sc of the 
scallop are reached; then draw the thread through two loops at a time, 
until they are all worked oft" the hook but one; then repeat from the first. 

BRAID AND SPIDER-WEB LACE. 

Fasten the thread to the first picot of the braid, and for the first row go 
across the length required with 1 tr, 1 ch, in each picot. (See Fig. 164.) 

Second Bow. — Work 3 dc (mid- 
dle one over a tr of previous row), 
3 ch, 1 tr, 3 ch; repeat. Leave a 
space of 2 tr's of last row between 
each. 

Third i?ow.— Work 4 ch, 1 tr 
over second dc of last row, * 3 ch, 
3 dc (middle one over treble of the 
last row), 3 ch, 1 tr; repeat from 
the star. 

Fourth Row. — Work 5 dc over 3 
dc of the last row, 5 ch; repeat. 

Fifth lioio. — Work 3 dc over the 
5 dc of the last row, 3 ch, 1 tr over 
5 ch, 3 ch ; repeat. 
Sixth /i-ow.— Work 4 ch, * 1 tr 
over the second dc of the last row, 3 ch, 3 dc over 1 tr of last row, 3 ch; re- 
peat from the star. 

Seventh Jiow. — WorK 5 dc ovjer 3 dc, 5 ch; repeat. 
Eighth Row. — Work 3 dc, 3 ch, 1 tr, 3ch; repeat. 

Ninth Row. — Work 4 ch, 1 tr over the second dc, 1 ch, 6 tr, each sepa- 
rated by 1 ch over 1 tr of the last row: repeat. 
For the heading: 
First Row. — Like first row above. 

Second Rotv. — Work 4 ch, 2 tr over 1 ch iu the first row, 3 ch, thread 
over, * put the hook around the 2 tr just made and finish the treble as usual, 
2 tr over the next space but one, 3 ch ; repeat ft-om the star. 

Third Ron). — Work 3 ch, 1 tr over each little loop made by the 3 ch of 
the previous row. 




Fig. 164. 



Crochet Work. V4.5 

CENTENNIAL LACE. 
This lace is made with No. 50 thread, fine rick- rack braid and a sharp- 
pointed crochet hook. The stitches should be pulled out loosely ; if the 
worker can not succeed in doing that she will be obliged to make more chain 
stitches. 

First Bow. — Fasten the thread in the first point of the braid, 1 ch, 1 tr 
in the depression between the two points, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next point, 1 ch, 
1 tr in the depression between the next two points; and so continue until 
three of the 1 tr's have been made, 1 ch after the third 1 tr, fasten with sc 
in the next point, sc in the next point, 1 ch, 1 tr in the next depression, 1 
ch, 1 sc in the next point, 1 sc in the next point, * 1 ch, 1 tr in the next de- 
pression, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next point, and continue from star until there are 
three more 1 tr's, 1 ch, fasten with sc in the next point; turn. 

Second Itow. — Make 6 ch, fasten with sc in the first 1 ch, * 5 ch, fasten 
in next 1 ch; repeat from the star to center of scallop, 5 ch, 1 tr in 1 ch be- 
fore middle 1 tr of scallop, 1 ch, 1 tr in 1 ch on the other side of 1 tr of scal- 
lop, 5 ch, fasten in the next 1 ch, * 2 ch, fasten in the middle of opposite 5 
ch, 2 ch, fasten in next 1 ch, repeat from the star until all the 5 ch's are 
joined ; * 1 ch, 3 tr in the next depression of the braid, 1 ch, fasten in next 
point; repeat from the star twice more. 

Begin again at the first row, and continue until the lace is long enough, 
then repeat the pattern on the other side of the braid, joining it all together. 
For the scallop: 

First Jtow. — Make 3 tr in each of the 1 ch's before and after the 3 tr's 
of the previous row, separating each of these 3 tr's by 2 ch, and fastening 
the last 3 tr of each scallop in the center of the lace network. 

Second Mow. — Make a scallop in each .space between the last tr's as fol- 
lows: 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 long trebles, 2 tr, 2 dc. 
For the heading: 

First Jiow. — Same as first row of scallop. 

Second Bote. — Make 3 tr in the space between the first two 3 tr's of last 
row, 2 ch, 3 tr between the next two 3 tr's, 2 ch, and so continue until you 
have made a group of 3 tr's between all the tr's of the last row of scallops ex- 
cept the last two. A half star is then worked in the depression between the 
scallops to bring that part of the edge up even with the rest. The half star 
is worked as follows: Make 9 ch, fasten with sc in first tr of Rist group of 
tr's of previous row, 4 ch, fasten in middle stitch of 9 ch, 4 ch, fasten in last 
tr of last group of tr's, 4 ch, fasten in middle stitch of 9 ch, 4 ch, fasten in 
sc between scallops, 4 ch, fasten in middle stitch of 9 ch, 4 ch, fasten in first 
tr of first group of tr's of next scallop, 4 ch, fasten in center stitch of 9 ch, 4 
ch, fasten in last tr of first group of tr's, 4 ch, iitsten in 9 ch, 4 ch, 3 tr iu 
chain before 3 tr's of previous row, 2 ch, 3 tr between the next two tr'.s, and 
so continue. 



246 Home Decorative Work. 

Third Bow. — Make 2 ch, 3 tr, all the way across. When near the star, 
make the 3 tr in the last stitch of the last tr of previous row, 2 ch, 3 tr be- 
tween the last 3 tr made, and the center of star, catching through both the 
chain and the first prong of the star. 

Fourth Row. — Make 2 ch, 3 tr all the way across. 
PATSIE LACE. 

This trimming, when made of fine thread, is very pretty for the edge of 
an apron. Use wide embroidered braid. 

First Bow. — Work 1 tr into a picot of braid, 1 ch; repeat across. 

Second Bow. — Work 1 cross treble, 2 ch, miss two stitches; repeat 
across. 

Third Boic. — Work 5 double trebles under each 2 ch of last row. 

Fourth and Sixth Boivs. — Like the second row. 

Fifth Botv. — Work 1 tr in a stitch of last row, 1 ch, miss one stitch ; re- 
peat across. 

Seventh Bow. — Work 1 dc into a cross tre})le, 6 ch ; repeat across. 

Eighth How. — Work 1 tr into the fourth stitch of 6 ch, 3 ch, 1 dc in the 
first stitch of 6 ch, 1 tr in the same stitch the last tr was worked in, 1 ch, 
5 double trebles under next 6 ch, 1 ch ; repeat across. 

Ninth Bow. — Work 1 dc in 1 ch, 7 ch; repeat across. 

Repeat the eighth and ninth rows once more. 

Fourteenth Bow. — Like the eighth row. 

Fifteenth Bow. — Work 1 dc in 1 ch, 3 ch, 1 dc in picot of last row, 3 ch, 
1 dc in next chain, miss one stitch, 1 tr in the next, * 3 ch, 1 dc in the first, 
1 tr in next stitch, repeat from the star twice more, working 2 tr in the 
third of 5 double trebles of last row, 1 ch. Repeat from the beginning of 
the row. 

When making this for an apron, the side is finished by working 3 ch, 1 
dc in the first, 1 dc in corner stitch of 5 tr of the fourteenth row, and so con- 
tinue up the side. 

OLD LADY LACE. 

Use mignardise braid and fine thread. (See Fig. 165.) 

First Scallop.— y^ovk 3 tr in two picots together; repeat seven times; 
the last cluster is worked into a picot on one side and one on the other to 
draw the scallop together; lireak the thread and fasten at the back of the 
work. 

The filling of all the scallops is worked in the same way. 

For the edge: 

First Bow. — Work 1 sc into two picots together (one taken from each 
side of the scallop), 2 ch, 1 sc in next picot, * 4 ch, 1 sc in next picot; re- 
peat from the star five times, 2 ch ; repeat across. 

Second Roiv. — Work 1 sc under 4 ch, * 1 sc, 1 dc, 2 tr, 1 dc, 1 sc, under 



Crochet Work. 



247 



the second 4 ch of last row; repeat from the star three times, 1 sc under the 
next 4 ch, 1 ch; repeat across. 
For the heading: 

First How. — Like the lirst row of edge. 

Second Row. — Work 1 long treble under the first 4 ch, keep the top loop 
on the hook, 1 tr under next chain, work off the loops on the hook together, 3 
ch, 1 sc under next chain, 4 ch, 1 sc under next, 5 ch, 1 sc under next, 4 ch, 1 

sc under next, 3 ch, 1 tr under 
next; keep the top loop on the 
the hook, 1 long treble under 
next chain, work off all the 
loops on the hook together; re- 
peat across. ' 

Third Row. — Work 1 tr under 
4 ch of last row, 3 ch; repeat 
across. 

BAl'.Y EDGING. 

Take the length of novelty 
picot braid required, and work 
a treble into every loop for the 
upper edge. 

Now begin on the lower edge. 

First ^fi'oio.— Work 1 tr in 

Fig. 105. each of the first six picots, 3 ch, 

1 tr in cacli of the next six picots, 3 ch; repeat to the end, then 3 ch and 

turn. 

Second Eoic. — Work 3 tr in the first 3 ch of preceding row, then make 
one picot (by making 3 ch and fastening into the top of the last tr with a 
slip-stitch), 3 tr in the same place, one picot, 3 tr in the same place, one 
picot, 3 tr in the same place (12 tr in all); then work 12 tr and three picots 
in the next 3 ch, and so continue to the end. 
This is very easy and very pretty. 




KANSAS EDGING. 

This is made with narrow, open braid. Make the heading first by 
working 1 tr in every hole on the top edge along the whole length. 

Now work the lower edge as follows: 

First Row. — AVork 1 double in a stitch, 3 ch, miss two holes; repeat. 

Second Eoic. — Work 1 tr in the middle stitch of 3 ch, 3 ch, 1 double in 
the first stitch (at the head of the treble), 1 ch, 1 tr in the same place as the 
last tr; repeat. 

This is very pretty in linen. If liked, the braid can be worked with 
colored floss, for a variation. 




248 Home Decorative Work. 

FRKXCU KIKilNG. 

This is made with fine honitou braid and No. 40 thread. (See Fig, 
166.) 

Join two lengths of the braid as follows: Worl<^ 1 dc over a bar between 
two patterns of braid, 1 dc over the bar between two patterns of the seicnd 
length of braid, 1 dc over the first bar again, 1 dc over the second bar, 10 chj 
and so continue across the braid. 
For the edge: 

First How. — Work 1 tr in the center picot on each of two patterns to- 
gether, 1 ch, pass over one picot, (1 tr, 2 double trebles and 1 tr, each sepa- 
rated by 3 ch) under the bar between two patterns, 2 ch; repeat from the 
beginning of the row. 

Second Bow. — Work 5 ch^ 
fasten with sc in the first 3 ch 
of previous row, 5 ch, fasten in 
next 3 ch; and so continue 
across the row. 
For the heading: 
First Row. — Work 1 tr in the 
center picot on each of two pat- 
FiG. 1G6. terns together, 3 ch, 3 de 

under the bar between patterns, 3 ch ; repeat from the beginning to the end 
of the row. 

Second Row. — Work 1 tr in a stitch, 1 ch, pass over one stitch; repeat 
to the end of t.he row, 

PICOT-CHAIN INSEKTIOX. 

With a hook, draw nine picots of fine novelty braid one through the 
other to form a chain inside of a loop of biaid; fasten firmly with the hook 
or needle and thread. Then draw the next nine picots one through the 
other to form a scallop on the other side, and so continue to any length de- 
sired. 

NARROW PICOT-BRAID INSERTION. 

Work 1 double in the first picot, 5 ch, 1 double in the second stitch of 
the 5 ch, miss one picot, and repeat to the end. 
The other edge is worked in the same way. 

MINNESOTA LACE. 

This lace is made of No. 60 thread and fine mignardise gimp, and is. 
pretty for the bottom of skirts for little girls. (See Fig. 167.) 

First Row. — Make 2 ch, 1 tr in each picot on both edges of the braid. 

Second Jimv. — Work 1 dc in each of the first fourteen stit<hes, 3 ch, pasa 
over two stitches, 2 tr's separated by 3 ch in the next stitch, 3 ch, pass over 
two stitches; repeat from the beginning to the end of the row. 

TJiird Bow. — Pass over the first stitch of the jirevious 14 dc, 12 dc, pass 




Crochet Work. 249 

over the last stitch of 14 dc, 3 ch, 1 tr over tr of previous row, 3 ch, 1 tr iu 
middle stitch of 3 ch of last row, 3 ch, 1 tr in same stitch, 3 ch, 1 tr over 
next tr, 3 ch, pass over first stitch of next 14 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 12 
dc, and so on to the end of the row. 

T/iird Row. — Same as second row, except that the tr's are increased by- 
two and the dc's decreased. All other rows are the same. The tr's must 

always be increased by making two 
in the center stitch. 

The border consists of 5 ch, 1 sc 
in each chain. A heavy border may 
be made, if preferred, by working a 
scallop in every alternate space. 
INFANTA INSERTION. 
This is worked on fine honiton 
braid, with fine thread. 

First Row. — Make 3 tr in the first 

picot of braid, keeping the top loop 

of each on the hook, and draw 

through all together, 5 ch; repeat 

from the beginning of the row five^ 

Fig. 167. times more; 1 tr on the bar between 

two patterns of the gimp; repeat from the beginning of the row for the 

length required. 

Second Row. — Make 1 double treble in the second stitch of 5 ch Vorked 
between the clusters of trebles, 7 ch, 1 tr iu the next stitch of chain, 7 cli, 1 
double treble in next stitch of chain; repeat from the beginning of the row. 
Third Rotv. — Make 1 tr iu a stitch, 2 ch, pass over two stitches, and re- 
peat to the end of the row. 

Fourth Row. — Make 1 tr in a stitch, 3 ch, pass over three stitches, and " 
repeat to the end of the row. 
Fifth Row. — Like third. 

Sixth Row. — Make 3 triple trebles (throw thread over three times) in a 
stitch keeping the top loop of each on the hook, draw through all together, 
pass over five stitches, 3 triple trebles in the next stitch, 6 ch, 3 triple 
trebles in the next stitch, pass over five stitches, 3 triple trebles in the next, 
and so continue to the end of the row. 

QUEEN LACE. 

To make this lace you will require straight novelty braid with picot 
edges, honiton braid having a rather wide medallion pattern, andbolli red 
and white crochet cotton. (See Fig. 168.) The centei of the lace is worked 
as follows: 

Firi^t Row. — Begin this with white cotton at the top of the scalop. 
Make 1 sc iu first picot, 2 ch, 1 sc in next picot, and so continue around the 



250 



Home Decorative Work. 



first medallion, 3 ch, 1 sc over the bar between the medallions, 3 ch, 1 sc in 
each of the firet two picots of the next medallion, 2 ch, 1 sc in each of next 
two picots, 4 ch, 1 sc in last picot of second medallion, and first picot of next 
medallion, 4 ch, 1 sc in each of next two picots, 4 ch, 1 sc in last picot of 
third medallion and first picot of next, joining them closely together. Ke 
peat across four medallions; the fifth is worked like the first. The fifth and 
first medallions form the space between the scallops. 

• For the star in the center of the scallop work as follows, using white 
■cotton: 

First Row. — Make a chain of six stitches, join them in a ring, and work 
5 ch, 1 tr in the ring, * 2 ch, 1 tr in the ring; repeat six times more. 

Second Eoic. — Fasten on 
the red cotton, make 5 ch, 1 
double treble in 2 ch of last 
row, 5 ch, 2 double trebles 
in next 2 ch, 1 tr in last 4 
ch at the end of the fifth me- 
dallion, 2 ch, fasten between 
2 sc in the middle of the same 
medallion, 3 ch, 2 double 
trebles in next 2 ch of star, 2 
ch, fasten in next 4 ch of me- 
dallion, 2 ch, 2 double trebles 
in next 2 ch of star, 2 ch, 
fasten in second picot of 
fourth medallion, 2 ch, fasten 
in next 4 ch of medallion, 2 
Fig. 1G8. ch, 2 double trebles in next 2 

ch of star, 2 ch, fasten in next 4 ch of medallion, 2 ch, fasten in next 4 ch of 
medallion, 2 ch, 2 double trebles in next 2 ch of star, 2 ch, fasten in next 4 
ch of medallion, 2 ch, 2 double trebles in next 2 ch of star, 2 ch, fasten in 
second picot of medallion, 1 tr in next 4 ch of medallion, 2 double trebles, 4 
<>h, 2 double trebles, 4 ch, fasten thread and break it oft'. 
For the edge: 

First How.— On the other side of the scallop work, with white cotton, 1 
sc separated by 2 ch in each of the picots on the medallion in the depth of 
the scallop, pass over one picot, 1 sc separated by 2 ch in each of the next 
five picots on next medallion, 1 ch, 1 sc over the bar, 1 ch, 1 sc separated by 
^ ch in each picot on next medallion, 2 ch, 1 sc over the bar, 2 ch; repeat 
from the beginning of the row. 

Second /.'oic.— This is worked with red cotton. Make 1 sc under 2 ch iu 
the depth of the scallop, 4 ch, 1 sc under second 2 ch worked in next medal- 
lion, * 4 ch, one picot made by catching back into the first stitch of 4 ch 




Crochet "Work. 251 

■with 1 sc, 1 sc under next 2 ch; repeat from star twice more, 1 sc under 
next 2 ch, * one picot, 1 sc under next 2 ch; repeat from star once more; 
* now make a picot by working 5 ch, and catching back into the second 
stitch; 1 sc under next 2 ch; repeat from star twice more, one picot like the 
last, 1 di, 1 dc under next 2 ch, 1 dc under next, one pi( ot like the last, 1 
ch, 1 sc under next 2 ch, * one picot like last, 1 sc under next 2 ch; repeat 
from star three times more, one picot like the first, 1 sc iinder next 2 oh, 1 
sc in next 2 ch, * one picot like the first, 1 sc in next 2 ch; repeat from star 
twice more, 4 ch; repeat from the beginning of the row. 

For the heading; 

First How. — This is worked with red cotton on the straight row of 
gimp. Make 1 dc in the first picot, then make a picot with 4 ch, catching 
back into the first stitch of the 4 ch, 1 dc in next picot, 1 ch; repeat from 
the beginning of the row. 

Second Row. — Work this with white cotton. Make 2 tr between two of 
the red picots, 2 ch; repeat. 

WAVE LACE. 

This lace is made on wave braid, the points of Avhich are about one-half 
inch apart. i 

First Row. — Make 7 tr with 1 ch between each tr around the point of 
the braid, having the stitches at nearly equal distances apart, and the last 
stitch a little more than two-thirds of the distance from the point of the 
"braid to the depression; then without making a stitch, begin the seven 
trebles on the next scallop, having the first one exactly opposite the last 
treble on the last scallop. The three trebles near the point of the braid 
must be a little closer together than the others are. 

Second Row. — Make 1 tr betweeen first and second tr's of last row, 1 ch 
1 tr between second and third tr's, 1 ch, 1 tr between third and fourth tr's, 1 
ch, 1 tr in the same place, 1 ch, 1 tr hetween fourth and fifth tr's, 1 ch, 1 tr 
in the same place, 1 ch, 1 tr between fifth and sixth tr's, 1 ch, 1 tr between 
sixth and seventh; repeat from tlie beginning across the row. 

Third Row. — Make 1 ch, 1 tr l)etwcen every two tr's of last row, except 
in the center of the scallop, where 2 tr's are made between the two groups of 
tr's, and 1 ch between the tr's in the center of the depression is passed over, 
thus narrowing it. 

Fourth Row. — Make 1 tr between first and second tr's of the last row, 
one picot, 1 tr between next two tr's, one picot, and so continue across the 
lace omitting the picots in the depression between the scallop. 

For the heading: 

First I'ow. — Fasten tlie thread with an sc a little to one side of the point 
of the braid, 3 ch, 1 sc on the other side of the point. These two stitches 
must correspond to the third and fifth stitches on the points in the edge of 
the braid. Now make 3 ch, 1 tr about half way between the last sc and the 



252 Home Decorative Work. 

center of the depression between points, 1 ch, 1 tr on next side of depression^ 
3 ch, 1 sc a little to one side of point, and so continue across the braid. 

Second Row. — Make 2 tr in 1 ch over depression in braid, 1 ch, 2 tr io 
same place, * 2 ch, (2 tr, 1 ch, 2 tr) in 3 ch at the point of the braid, 2 th,. 
(2 tr, 1 ch, 2 tr) in 3 ch over depression in braid; repeat from the star. 

Third Row. — Fasten with an sc in 1 ch between 2 tr's, 5 ch, 1 sc in 1 ch 
between next 2 tr's; repeat all the way across. 

Fourth Row. — Make 1 tr in first stitch, 2 ch, pass over two stitches, 1 tr 
in next, and so continue across the row. 

KATURA LACE. 

This is made of the embroidered novelty braid having picot edges. Two 
strips of the braid are required to make the pattern. Join the strips to«- 
gether as follows: 

First Bow. — Fasten the thread in first picot, * 5 ch, 1 tr in next picot, 
pass over one picot, 1 tr in the next, 5 ch, 1 sc in the next picot; repeat 
from the star all the way across. 

Second Row. — Now take the second strip of braid, * make 1 tr in first 
picot, pass over one picot, 1 tr in the next, 3 ch, fasten in the middle stitch 
of 5 ch of the first piece of braid, 3 ch, 1 sc in next picot of the second piece 
of braid, 3 ch, fasten in second 5 ch of the first piece of braid, 3 ch; repeat 
from the star all the way across. 

For the heading: Make 2 ch and fasten with sc in every picot all the 
way across. 

For the edge: 

First Row. — Make 2 ch, 1 tr in first picot, 2 ch, 1 tr in the next; repeat 
across the braid. 

Second Row. — Make 6 double trebles in first treble of last row, * 5 ch, 
pass over two tr's, 1 sc in the next, 6 ch, pass over 1 tr, 1 sc in the next, 5 
ch, pass over 2 tr, 6 double trebles in the next ; repeat from the star to the 
end of the row. 

Third Row. — Make 1 double treble in first double treble of the last row, 
make one picot (4 ch, fastening back with a slip-stitch in first stitch of 
chain just made), 1 double treble in next double treble of last row, one 
picot, and repeat until there are eight double trebles over the six double 
trebles. To do that, the outer double trebles must be on the outside of the 
other trebles; G ch, fasten with a slip-stitch in G ch of last row, 6 ch, and be- 
gin the double trebles on the next scallop; repeat all the way across. 

Fourth Row. — Make 2 ch, 1 tr between the first and second picots, 2 ch,. 
1 tr between the next two picots; repeat around tlie scallop, making eight 
tr's, 1 ch, 1 tr in first 6 ch between the scallops, 1 tr in next 6 ch, 1 ch, 1 tr 
between the first two picots of the next scallop, and so continue. 

Fifth Row. — Fasten the thread with a slip-stitch in the f.rst 3 ch l)e- 



Crochet Work. 



253 



tween the trebles of the last row, 3 ch, fasten in next 3 ch; continue all the 
way acroso, passing over the 2 tr between scallops. 

SixtJi Bow. — Make 1 sc, 2 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 so in every 3 ch of scallop. 

FOUR-LEAF-CLOVER LACE. 

This lace is made of the embossed novelty braid with picot edges. (See 
Fig. 169.) » 

First How. — Make a stitch on the needle, wind the thread four times 
around the needle, catch into the first picot of the braid, work off two 
stitches as a treble is worked, leaving three stitches on the needle, thread 
over once, catch into the next picot, work oif all the stitches like a long 
treble, make 2 ch, 1 tr in the center stitch of the long treble, and the cross 
represented in the illustration is finished. Now make 2 ch, and repeat from 
the beginning of the tow. 

Second Jioic. — Make 1 tr in 
the first stitch, 1 ch, pass 
over one stitch, 1 tr in next, 
and so continue. 

For the edge: This is 
worked all together except 
the last three rows which 
form the small scallops, which 
are worked after the rest of 
the lac6 is finished. Begin 
the edge by working 10 ch, 1 
sc in the first picot of braid, 1 
ch, turn the work, make 1 sc 
in next picot, 3 ch, 1 sc in the 
fourth stitch of 10 ch, 3 ch, 1 
tr in each of the last three 
stitches of 10 ch; turn work, 

make 4 ch, 3 tr over 3 tr of 

Fig. 169. Uist row, 7 ch, 1 sc in next 

picot of braid, 1 ch; turn the work, make 1 sc in next picot, 3 ch, 1 sc in 
fourth stitch of 7 ch, 3 ch, 3 tr over 3 tr of last row, 3 ch; turn work, 2 tr 
over last 3 tr, 7 ch, 1 sc in next picot, 1 ch ; turn Avork, 1 sc in next picot, 3 
ch, 1 sc in fourth stitch of 7 ch, 3 ch, 3 tr over last 3 tr, 11 ch, catch back 
into the first loop made by 4 ch; this forms the foundation of the scallop. 
Make 15 ch, fasten with an sc in the sixth stitch of the 11 ch. Now on the 
first eight stitches of the 1.5 ch work (2 sc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 long trebles); this 
forms the first clover leaf. * Make 12 ch, fasten in the sixth stitcli of the 11 
ch as before, work back along the eight stitches to form the next leaf, leav- 
ing a chain of four stitches between the leaves; repeat from the star until 
there are four of the leaves. Work 5 ch, fasten with an sc in the 11 ch. half 




254 Home Decorative Work. 

way between the base of the leaves and the row of 3 tr's; 4 ch, 3 tr over 3 
tr, 7 ch, 1 sc in the next picot of braid, 1 ch; turn the work, 1 sc in next 
picot, 3 ch, 1 sc in fourth stitch of last 7 ch, 3 ch, 3 tr over 3 tr, 4 ch; repeat 
from the beginning. 

For the scallop: 

First Roiv. — Make an sc in the loop made by 4 ch between the groups of 
clover leaves, 5 ch, 1 sc in the chain close to the point of the iirst clover leax, 
5 ch, (1 sc, 4 ch, 1 sc) in the 4 ch between the first and second clover leaves, 
och, (1 sc, 4 ch, 1 sc) between the second and third leaves, 5 ch, (1 sc, 4 ch, 1 
sc) between the third and fourth leaves, 5 ch, 1 sc close to point of last leaf, 
5 ch, fasten in loop made by 4 ch between the two groups of leaves; repeat. 

Second Row. — Make 1 sc in the third stitch of the 5 ch between the scal- 
lops, * 2 ch, 4 tr each separated by 2 ch in the third stitch of the 5 ch over 
the first leaf, 2 ch, 1 sc in the 4 ch forming a picot between the leaves; re- 
peat from the star three times more. 

Third Row. — Fasten with a slip-stitch between the second and third 
trebles of first scallop, work a small scallop consisting of (1 sc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 
dc, 1 sc) between the third and fourth trebles, 1 sc between next two 
trebles, a small scallop in each of the next three spaces between trebles, 1 sc 
in the next, 1 sc in the next, a scallop in each of the next three, an sc ia 
each of the next two, and so continue. 

DAINTY LACE. 

This lace is worked on feather-edge braid, and is very pretty for chil- 
dren's clothing. 

First liow. — Fasten the thread in the first picot of braid, 2 ch, 1 dc in 
each of the next tAVO picots, simply throw the thread over the hook and draw 
the stitch through the picot, th^n work all the stitches off at once, 4 ch, 2 tr 
in the dc's just worked, keeping the top loop on the hook and working all off 
together, pass over two picots, 1 dc in each of the next three, working all the 
stitches off together, 4 ch, 2 tr in last dc's made, and so continue across the 
braid. 

Second Row. — Make 1 sc in the top of the 3 dc, 4 ch, * 3 tr in the top of 
next 3 dc, working all off together, 4 ch, 1 sc in the top of the next 3 dc; re- 
peat from the star. 

Third Row. — Make 1 sc in first stitch of chain, *4 ch. 2 ch, 1 tr in second 
stitch, 2 ch, 1 tr in third stitch, 2 ch, 1 double treble over group of trebles, 
2 ch, 1 double treble over group of trebles, 2 ch, 1 tr in second stitch of next 
4 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in third stitch, 2 ch, 1 sc in depression lietween scallops; re- 
peat from the star. 

Fourth Row. — Make (1 sc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 sc) under every 2 ch. 
TOMBOY LACE. 

This lace is made wilh the narrowest novelty braid having picot edges. 
Take two strips of tlie braid and join them as follows: 



Crochet Work. 255 

Insertion: Make 5 cli, fasten with au sc in the first picot of the Ijraid, 3 
ch, 1 tr in each stitch of the 5 ch, 3 ch, join to first picot in the second piece 
of braid, turn; 5 tr in 5 tr just made. You now have a square block which 
is fastened by opposite diagonal corners between the strips of braid. * Make 
5 ch, join to the top braid, passing over two picots, 3 ch, 5 tr in last 5 ch, 3 
ch, join to lower strip of braid, passing over two picots, 5 tr in last 5 tr; re- 
peat from the star. 

For the heading: 

First Eotv. — Make 1 tr in first picot of braid, 1 ch, pass over one picot, 1 
tr in next; repeat to the end of the row. 

Second Row. — Make 1 dc in each stitch of the previous row. 

For the edge: 

First Bow. — Make 1 tr in first picot of braid, * 1 ch, pass over one picot, 
1 tr in the next; repeat from the star. 

Second Row. — Make 6 dc in firet 1 ch of last row, * 1 sc in next, 6 dc in 
next, 1 sc in next, 3 dc in next; turn, 3 ch, fasten between third and fourth 
do's of middle scallop, 3 dc, fasten between third and fourth stitches of next 
scallop; turn, (1 sc, 6 dc, 1 sc) in first 3 ch, (1 sc, 3 dc) in next; turn, 3 ch, 
fasten in center of scallop; turn, (1 sc, 7 dc, 1 sc) in 3 ch, (3 dc, 1 sc) in half- 
finished scallop j ust below, 3 dc in next half-finished scallop, 1 sc in next 1 
ch of first row, 6 dc in next; repeat from the star. 

Tliird Row. — Make 5 ch, fasten in first stitch of first little scallop, * 3 
ch, pass over one stitch, 1 sc in the next ; repeat from the star all around 
the large scallop. 

STKAWBERKY LACE. 

This is made on a plain braid having a fine, open edge resembling hem- 
stitching. 

First Rou\ — Fasten the thread in one hole in the edge, 7 ch, pass over 
five of the holes, 1 sc in the next; repeat to the end of the braid. 

Second Row. — Work 13 scjineach of the first two 7 ch's, 7 sc in third 7ch, 
7 ch, turn and fasten with an sc in seventh stitch of 13 sc, 7 ch, fasten in 
seventh stitch of first 13 sc; turn, 13 sc in last 7 ch made, 7 sc in next 7 ch 
7ch; turn and fasten with an sc in seventh stitch of firet 13 sc of second row 
of scallops; turn, 13 sc in this last 7 ch, G sc in 7 ch below, of which 7 sc are 
already made, 6 sc in 7 ch next the braid, of which 7 sc are already made. 
You now have a scallop consisting of three small scallops next the braid, two 
scallops on the three, and one scallop on the two ; this is to be repeated all 
the way across. 

Third Row. — Fasten the thread in the first stitch of the second row of 
scallops, 1 ch, 1 tr between firet and second sc's of the second row of small 
scallops, 1 ch, pass over 1 sc, 1 tr in the next, and so continue until 7 tr'sare 
made, which brings you to the point of the end scallop; then 1 ch, 1 tr in 
the same place as last tr was made; work tr's on the other side of the scallop 



256 Home Decorathe Work. 

to correspond with the first side. After the last tr, make 2 cli and fasten 
with an sc in the depression between the two large scallops; repeat from the 
beginning of the row. 

Fourth Mow. — "Work 1 tr, one picot between each two trebles all the way 
around the scallop, except at the point where two trebles are made in the 
same stitch, and between scallops where two trebles are passed over, thus 
narrowing. The two tr's between scallops are made without the picots. 

For the heading: Work 1 tr in the first hole of the braid, 2 ch, pass 
over two holes, 1 tr in the next, and so continue across the braid. 
IRISH POINT LACE. 

The top part of this lace is straight novelty braid ; the scallop is com- 
posed of two pieces of honiton braid having six picots on each medallion. 
(See Fig. 170.) 

First Row. — Cross two pieces of the honiton braid, catching them to- 
gether through the bars between the medallions with a needle and thread. 
* Make 5 ch, 1 sc in the first three picots of the first medallion ; put the 
hook through all three of the picots first, then draw the thread through. 
Now work (1 sc, 1 dc, 3 tr) in the 5 ch just made, 5 ch, fasten with sc in the 
last three picots of the same medallion, (1 sc, 1 dc, 3 tr) in last 5 ch made; 
repeat from the star across the next two medallions on the upper piece of 
braid, then cross the two pieces of braid again, and repeat the pattern on the 
three medallions on the lower piece of braid. When the last tr is worked on 
the last 5 ch, join the star thus made with an sc. 

Second How. — This is worked on the inside of the star. Make 4 ch, 1 tr 
between the first and second points of star, * 1 ch, 1 tr between the next 
two points of the star; repeat from the star ten times. 

Third How. — This is also worked inside the star. "Work 1 sc between 
each treble, join closely and fasten thread. This finishes the star. 

For the edge: 

First Row. — Make 1 tr in the last two picots of last medallion of one 
scallop, and the first two picots of first medallion of next scallop, thus draw- 
ing them closely together; 1 ch, 1 tr in next picot of first medallion, 2 ch, 1 
tr in next two picots, 4 ch, 1 tr over bar, 4 ch, 1 tr in next tw'O picots of 
next medallion, * 2 ch, 1 tr in next picot; repeat from star once more, 2 ch, 

1 tr in next two picots, 4 ch, 1 tr over bar, 4 ch, 1 tr in next two picots, * 2 
ch, 1 tr in next picot; repeat from star once more; repeat from the begin- 
ning of the row. 

Second Row. — Make 1 tr between the first and second trebles between 
scallops, 2 tr in next 2 ch, 2 tr in next 2 ch, 3 ch, 2 tr in next 4 ch, 3 ch, 2 
tr in next 4 ch, 3 ch, 2 tr in next 2 ch, 2 ch, 2 tr in next 2 ch, 2 ch, 2 tr in 
the same place, which is the top of the scallop, 3 ch, 2 tr in next 2 ch, 3 ch, 

2 tr in next 4 ch, 2 ch, 2 tr in next 4 ch, 3 ch, 2 tr in next 2 ch, 2 tr in next 
2 ch, 1 tr in the depression between scallojis. 



Crochet Work. 



25T 



7%ird How. — Fasten the threat! with an sc over the tr between scallops, 
pass over 4 tr, * 1 tr in 3 ch, 3 ch, 1 tr in same place; repeat from the star 
six times, forming a small scallop, fasten with sc in next 3 ch. Repeat 
fi-om the beginning of the row across the large scallop, making five of the 
small scallops. 




Fig. 170. 
To crochet this edge to the straight piece of braid, first fasten the thread 
to the first picot of straight braid, make 5 ch, 1 sc in last two picots of first 
medallion of the upper braid in the edge, (1 sc, 1 dc, 3 tr) on the 5 ch just 
17 



258 Home Decorative Work. 

made, and fasten to a picot ou the straight braid. There is such a difference 
in the distances apart of picots on different braids that it is hard to tell how 
many mnst be passed over. The worker must \ise her own judgment, tak- 
ing care to have the work lay smooth and flat. Now make 4 ch, 1 sc over 
bar between first and second medallions, 3 ch, double the work so that the 
picots of the middle medallion and the braid may be crochetted together 
with a loose slip-stitch ; 3 ch, 1 sc over bar between second and third me- 
dallion, 4 ch, fasten in picot of straight braid, 5 ch, fasten in first two picots 
of third medallion, (1 sc, 1 dc, 3 tr) in 5 ch just made, fasten in two picots 
of straight braid; repeat from the beginning all the way across. 

For the heading: 

First Jloio. — Make 1 tr in first picot, 1 ch, pass over one picot, 1 tr in 
next; repeat. 

Second Roto. — Make 1 tr in first tr, work 5 tr along the tr just made, 
* pass over two trebles, 1 tr in next, work 5 tr in last tr made; repeat from 
the star. 

Third Row. — Make 1 tr in first 5 tr, 4 ch, 1 tr in first of next 5 tr, and 
repeat. 

Fourth Row. — Make 1 tr in first stitch, 1 ch, pass over one stitch, 1 tr in 
the next; repeat. 

Articles in Crochet. 

ODDITY COLLAR. 

Use either linen or cotton thread, No. 70 or 80. Make a chain of 48 
stitches. 

First Row. — Make a wheel by joining the last stitch of the chain and the 
twelfth stitch by an sc, turn and work 4 tr, 1 picot (4 ch, fasten with a slip- 
stitch in the tr just made), 4 tr, 1 picot, 4 tr, 1 picot, 4 tr, 12 ch. This 
completes a half wheel. Fonn the last 12 ch into a ring, and work another 
half wheel, so continuing until there are eight half wheels, thus forming the 
vndth of the collar; turn. 

Second Row. — Fill out the other half of the wheel in the same manner, 
until the eight are completed, then * u ch, fasten in the sixth stitch of foun- 
dation chain with an sc, rej)eat from the star five times; turn. 

Third Row. — * Work 6 ch, fasten in tlie center of fii-st 6 ch of previous 
row; repeat from star five times, 6 ch, fasten between first and second picots 
of first wheel, 6 ch, fasten between second and third picots, and so continue 
down the row, working the same on each wheel; turn. 

Fourth Row. — Work 6 ch, fasten between the first and second picots of 
first wheel, 6 ch, fasten between the second and thiid picots, and so con- 
tinue across the wheels until the heading is reached; then * 6 ch, fasten in 
center of 6 ch of previous row, repeat from the star five times; turn. 



Crochet Work. 259 

Fifth Row. — * "Work 6 ch, fasten in 6 ch of previous row, 4 ch, fasten in 
same place (forming a picot) ; repeat from the star across the row; turn. 

Sixth Row. — Same as fifth. 

Seventh Row. — Work 6 ch, fasten in 6 ch of previous row, repeat across 
heading only; turn. 

Work the next three rows like the seventh. This will make five rows 
of picots. 

Eleventh Rote. — Work like the seventh across the heading, then repeat 
the first roAv ; turn. 

Twelfth Row. — Same as second row. 

Join the two roA\'s of wheels together with G ch, 1 sc in 6 ch of previous 
row. 

Repeat from the beginning until the collar is of the desired length. 

SCHOOL-GIRL COLLAR. 

Use fine threa<l, eithei; linen or cotton, and a fine crochet hook. Make 
a chain long enough to go around the neck. 

First Row. — Work 1 tr in each stitch of chain. 

Second Roiv. — Work 4 ch, 1 tr in third tr of first row, 1 ch, 1 tr in same 
stitch, * 1 ch, miss 1 tr in first row, 1 tr in next stitch, 1 ch, 1 tr in same 
.stitch ; repeat from the star all the way across. 

Third Roiv. — * Work 4 ch, 3 tr in second opening left in last row, 2 ch, 
3 tr in same place (this forms a shell), 3 ch, miss one opening, 1 tr in next, 
2 ch, 1 tr in same place ; repeat from the star across. 

Fourth Row. — * Work 4 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, 7 tr in 2 ch of previous 
row; repeat from the star. 

Fifth Row. — Work 4 ch, * shell in shell, 1 ch, 1 tr between first and sec- 
ond trebles in 7 tr of previous row, 1 ch, 1 tr between next two trebles of 
same grouj», and so on until there are six trebles, 1 ch; repeat from the star. 

Si.rth Row. — Work 4 ch, * shell in shell, 3 tr between each two trebles 
in the group of six of preceding row; repeat from the star. 

Seventh Rmo. — ^^N^ork 4 ch, * shell in shell, 7 ch, 1 tr between first and 
second trebles of center group of three in the " fan " of the preceding row, 2 
ch, 1 tr between second and third trebles of the same group, 7 ch; repeat 
from the star. 

Eighth Roiv. — Same as fourth, only using 5 ch between the shells and 
group of trebles. 

Ninth Roio. — Same as fil'th. only using 3 ch between shells and groups 
of trebles. 

Tenth Row. — Same as sixth, only using 2 ch between shells and groups 
of trebles. 

Eleventh Row. — Same a.s third, only using 8 ch between shells and gronpa 
of trebles. 



260 Home Decorative Work. 

Twelfth /?»?/'.— >Same as fourth, only using 6 cb l^etween shells and 
groups of trebles. 

Thirteenth Boiv. — Same as fiftli, only using 3 eh between shells and 
groups of trebles. 

Fourteenth Row. — Same as sixth, only using 1 ch lietween shells and 
groups of trebles. 

The edge of the neck is fiuisbed with loops through which to run ribbon, 
if desii'ed. 

HOUSEKEEPER COLLAR. 

This collar should be made of No. 70 thread or fine white silk. It con- 
sists of wheels joined together, and finished with a straight edge at the top 
and a scalloped edge at the bottom. 

For the wheels: 

Make a chain of eight fttitches, and join in a ring. 

First Round. — Make 3 ch and 23 tr under the ring, join to third stitch 
of 3 ch with a slip-stitch. 

Second Round. — Make 6 ch, 1 tr in first stitch of previous row, * 1 ch, 
pass over one stitch, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in next stitch; repeat from the star ten 
times more, then make 1 ch and join to the third stitch of 6 ch "with a slip- 
sfcitch. 

Third Round. — Make 2 ch, * 1 tr under the 2 ch of preceding row, 3 ch, 
1 sc in the top of the tr just made, 5 ch, 1 sc iu same place, 3 ch, 1 sc in 
.same place. This makes a group of three loops on a treble, now make 2 ch, 
1 sc under the 1 ch of preceding row, 2 ch; repeat from the star all around. 
This finishes the first wheel. In working the second wheel, join the middle 
stitch of the middle picot or loop in the first and second groups, to tho cor- 
responding stitch in the first wheel. After joining the second group of loops, 
work (2 ch, 1 tr, a group of picots on this tr, 2 ch, 1 sc) in the stitch you 
liave just joined, then work as before. This last group stands up between 
the wheels at the top, and fills in the space. 

For the heading: 

First Roic. — Make one slip-stitch in the middle picot of the first group, 
7 ch, 1 sc iu the next, and so continue all the way across. 

Second Row. — Make 2 ch, pass over two stitches, 1 tr in the next stitch, 
and a group of the picots on the treble just made, then work 2 ch, pass over 
two stitches, 1 sc in the next, and repeat from the beginning of the row. 

Tliird Row. — Like the fii"st. 

Fourth Row. — Make 1 do in each stitch of the previous row. 

For the edge: 

First Row. — Like the first row of the heading. 

^Second Row. — Like tlie second row of the heading, except that no group 
of picots is worked in the depression between scallops, since that would 
make the border too full. 



Crochet Work. 



261 



COLLAR OF FEATHER-EDGE BRAID. 

Fasten the thread to the first pioot of the braid. Make 5 ch, miss two 
picots, 1 sc in the next, repeat twice; 1 sc iu each of the next eleven picots, 
* 3 ch, 1 sc in third stitch of 5 ch, 3 ch, miss two picots, 1 sc in the next, 
repeat from the star once; 3 cli, 1 sc in the third stitdi of next 5 ch. 

This makes one small scallop. Xow cross over the braid and make 1 sc 
opposite the last sc made. Hold the braid doubled so that the picots will 
come together, put the needle through the first two picots, thread over, draw 
it through both pirots and leave the stitch thus formed on the needle, put 
the needle through the next two picots, draw the thread through, leave the 
stitch on the needle, and continue iu this way until there are nine stitches 

on the needle. Draw the 
thread through the first 
stitch; thread over, draw it 
through the stitch just 
made and one more, and so 
continue until you have but 
one stitch on the needle. 
You have now joined the scal- 
lop just made to the one to 
lie made. 

Cross over braid to the 
right side of the work again, 
and make 1 sc in the picot 
opposite the last stitch ; * 5 
ch, miss two picots, 1 sc in 
the next; repeat from the 
star twice; 11 ch, 1 sc in the 
Fig. 171. same picot in which the last 

sc was made, 5 ch, 1 sc in sixth stitch of 11 ch, 5 ch, pass over two jiicots, 1 
sc in the next, 5 ch, 1 sc in sixth stitch of 11 ch, 5 ch, 1 sc in the same picot; 
this forms the beginning of the upper star which is shown in the deep scal- 
lop. 

Make 5 ch, miss two picots, 1 sc in the next; repeat from the star twice, 
1 sc in each of the next eleven picots, * 3 ch, 1 sc in third stitch of 5 ch, 3 
ch, miss two picots, 1 sc in the next; repeat from the star once, 3 ch, 1 .sc in 
third stitch of next 5 ch, and the second small scallop is now finished. Now 
make 5 ch, 1 sc in sixth stitch of 11 ch of star, 5 ch, 1 sc in the same picot. 

Cross over the braid again, and make 1 sc opjwsite the last sc made; 
double the braid together and join the last scallop made with the one to be 
made, as previously described. 

Now, cross back again; 5 ch, miss two picots, 1 .sc in the next, 5 cV., miss 
two picot;, 1 sc iu the next, 11 ch, 1 sc in the same picot, and piweed as 




262 Home Decorative Work. 

before. You have now begun the lower star in the deep scallop. The four 
little scallops are worked the same us the one already described, and when 
you have got this far, there will be no trouble in working the rest if you 
glance at the illustration as you work. The scallo]3s are fastened together by 
crossing over the braid and joining the picots as you work. 

A row of the small scallops stand up around the neck, and both rows of 
scallops are sewed to a straight piece of the braid. 
COLLAR FOR LADY. 

This collar is handsome w^orked in the finest ecru sewing silk. The 
same pattern is also used in black silk as a finish to cuffs and collars of 
bright-colored morning dresses. For children, collars worked after this pat- 
tern in the finest linen or No. 120 crochet cotton are very pretty. The edge 
is added last. 

Cast on 16 stitches; turn. 

First Row. — Make (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) in the fourth stitch from the hook, 
* 1 ch, pass over one stitch, 1 sc in the next, 1 ch, pass over one stitch, (1 tr, 
1 ch, 1 tr) in the next; repeat from the star to the end of the row, which 
must end with 2 tr in one stitch ; turn. 

Second Row. — Make 3 ch, (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) between 2 tr of the previous 
row; repeat from the beginning to the end of the row. 

Continue these two rows until the strip is of the desired length, then 
turn and work across the top as follows: 4 ch, 1 sc in first 3 ch, 3 ch, 1 sc in 
next 3 ch, and so on. 

For the edge : 

First Row. — Fasten the thread in the top stitch of 3 ch, * 2 ch, 1 tr in 
depression between two loops made by the 3 ch, 2 ch, 1 sc in top stitch of 
next 3 ch; repeat from the star all the way across; turn. Be careful that the 
work does not draw ; it is better to have it too loose than too tight. 

Second Rote. — Make 1 tr in each stitch of the last row; turn. 

I'hird Row. — This row is like the first row of the foundation of collar. 

Fourth Row. — Like second row of collar. 

Fifth Row. — Like first row of collar. 

Sixth Roiv. — Make 3 ch, 1 sc in 1 ch between two tr's, 3 ch, 1 sc in sc of 
previous row, 3 ch, 5 dc in 1 ch between next two tr's, 3 ch, 1 .sc in sc of pre- 
vious row; repeat from the beginning to the end of the row; turn. 

Seventh Row. — Make 3 ch, fasten with an sc in middle stitch of 3 ch of 
previous row, * 3 ch, 1 tr in 3 ch before group of 5 dc's, 1 ch, 1 tr between 
all the 5 dc's, and in the next 3 ch, 3 ch, fasten with an sc in the middle 
stitch of 3 ch, 3 ch, iasten with an sc in the middle stitch of the next 3 ch; 
repeat from the star; turn. 

Eighth Row. — Make 3 ch, fasten in sc of previous row, 1 ch, (1 tr, 1 ch, 
1 tr) between fii-st two trebles of scallop, * 1 ch, (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) between 
the next two trebles; repeat from the star around the .scallop, making five 



('rochet Work. 263 

groups of the 2 tr's, 1 ch, fasten •uith an sc in the middle sc between the two 
scallops, 1 eh, (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 ti) between the first two trebles of the next 
scallop, and so continue across the row; turn. 

Xinth Row. — Make (1 sc, 3 tr, 1 sc) between every group of 2 tr's, and 
fasten with an sc in the chain between the next 2 tr's. 
child's collar. 

Use No. 36 or 40 spool cotton. Make a chain of 32 stitches; turn. 

First Hoic. — Work 3 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr, in fourth stitch of chain (forming a 
shell), miss three stitches, 1 sc in the next stitch, 3 ch, miss three, 1 sc, 7 ch, 
miss seven, 1 sc, 3 ch, miss three, 1 sc, 3 ch, miss three, 1 sc, miss three, 
make a shell in last stitch of foundation ; turn. 

Second Eoic.^— Work. 2 ch, shell in shell, 1 sc in sc of former row, 3 ch, 1 
sc in next sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in next sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in fourth stitch of 7 ch, 7 ch, 
miss seven, 1 sc in next, shell in shell; turn. 

Third How. — Work 2 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, 1 sc in fourth stitch of 7 
ch, 7 ch, miss seven, 1 sc in next, 3 ch, 1 sc in next sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in next sc; 
turn. 

Fourth RoiB. — Work 7 ch, miss seven, 1 sc in next, 3 ch, 1 sc in fourth 
stitch of 7 ch, 7 ch, miss seven, 1 sc in next, shell in shell; turn. 

Fifth Row. — Work 2 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, 1 sc in fourth stitch of 7 ch, 
7 ch, miss seven, 1 sc in next, 3 ch, miss three, 1 sc in next, 3 ch, miss three, 
1 sc in next, shell in shell; turn. 

Repeat from the second row until you have ten rows. That will leave 
you at the wide side of the pattern. Do not turn the work, but slip it 
around to make the scallop. 

For the scallop: 

First How. — Work 4 ch, shell in 2 ch where work was turned, 3 ch, 3 tr 
in next 2 ch, 4 ch, 3 dc in next 2 ch, 3 ch, shell in next 2 ch, 4 ch, 1 sc in 
the end of the foundation chain; turn. 

Second Roto. — Work 9 sc in 4 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, 11 dc in 4 ch, shell 
in shell, fasten with a slip-stitch between shell and 4 ch; turn. 

Tliird Row. — Work 4 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, 1 sc between first and sec- 
ond dc's of former row, * 3 ch, 1 sc between next dc's, repeat from the star 
until there are ten sc's in all: 3 ch, shell in shell, 4 ch, iasten at the 
point of former shell; turn. 

Fourth Row. — Work 9 sc in 4 ch, shell in shell, 3 ch, 1 sc in second 3 ch, 
* 3 ch, 1 sc in next 3 ch, repeat from the star until there are 9 sc's; 3 
cb, shell in shell, fasten between shell and 4 ch; turn. 

Now repeat third and fourth rows (decreasing 1 sc each time across) 
until there are only 1 sc and 3 ch left each side between the shells; then 4 ch, 
and fasten the center of both shells together with 1 sc; 4 ch, and fasten at 
the end of the shell, turn; 9 sc in 4 ch, 4 sc in next 4 ch, turn; 4 ch, fasten 
to the ccntci- of the tilled-in loop; turn. Work 9 sc in 4 ch, 5 sc in unfin- 



264 Home Decorative Work. 

ished loop, 9 sc in each of uext six loops down the side of the scallop, s'.iell 
in shell, 3 ch, 1 sc in fourth stitch of 7 oh, 7 eh, miss seven, 1 sc in next, 3 
ch, miss three, 1 sc in next, 3 ch, miss three, 1 sc in next, shell in shell; 
turn. 

Repeat from second row until ready to make another scallop, and then 
join the scallop as you come back to the first one, until there are three loops 
joined. 

This is a very pretty collar. It shapes itself to the neck, and has a 
place to run a ribbon in. 

child's collar — NO. 2. 

For this collar use linen thread No. 60 and a medium-sized steel needle. 
Make a chain of 161 stitches. 

First Row. — Work 1 tr in seventh stitch from the needle, * 3 ch, miss 
three stitches, 1 tr in next; repeat from the star to the end of the rovr; turn. 

Second Eoiv. — Work 3 ch, 3 tr in first hole from needle, 3 ch, one slip- 
stitch in same place, 3 tr, 3 ch and one slip-stitch in next hole; repeat to the 
end of the row; turn. 

Third Boiv. — Work 3 ch, 3 tr in first hole from the needle, 3 ch, one slip- 
stitch in the same hole, * 3 tr, 3 ch and one slip-stitch under next 3 ch; re- 
peat from the star to the end of the row; turn. 

Fourth Roiv. — Work same as third row until you have nine groups of 
stitches consisting of 3 tr, 3 ch and one slip-stitch under the chaius in the 
preceding row. Then make 1 ch, and proceed as before until you have an- 
other group of nine; repeat to the end of the row; turn. 

The other rows are the same as the last, except that you add one stitch 
to each chain between the divisions of nine groups of stitches, on each row, 
until you have fifteen rows in all. At the end of the last row, danot make 
the 3 ch and one slip-stitch, as in the others. When you have the 3 tr in 
the last space of the fifteenth row, make 1 ch and turn. 

Next Jiow. — * Work 3 tr, 3 ch and one slip-stitch under first chain of 
three; repeat from the star six times more, 3 tr under the next chain of 
three; turn. 

Next Row. — Work 1 ch, then same as last row, leaving off the 3 ch and 
one slip-stitch at the end of every row until you have only one space left, 
into which work 4 tr; fasten the thread and break off. Finish the other 
points in the same :way; then make a row of scallops around all, by putting 
8 tr in one stitch, one slip-stitch in fourth stitch from that, 8 tr in next 
fourth stitch; repeat all around the collar. Make a cord and run through 
the open spaces at the top and tie; or narrow ribbon may be used, if pre- 
ferred. 

lady's scarf. 

For this scarf use either Shetland or ice wool. Make a chain of 361 
stitches; turn. 



Crochet Work. 265 

First Roic. — Make 3 tr in tliird stitch from the needle, 3 tr in next 
stitch, * j)ass over four stitches, 3 tr in next stitch, 3 tr in next stitch ; re- 
peat from the star to the end of the chain. 

Second Row. — Make 1 do in the middle of first shell, one shell in same 
place, shell in shell across the row, finishing with 3 ch. 

Third Row. — Make 3 ch in the same hole in which the second row 
started, shell in the same place, shell in shell across the row, ending mth a 
dc in the middle of the shell. 

At the end of the row after making a dc on the top of the last shell of the 
second row, another shell is worked in the opening of the base of the 3 ch, 
and is finished with a dc in the top of the 3 ch. 

SHAWL, IN CLOSE SHELL-WORK. 

^lake a chain of 21 stitches. 

First Row. — Join the last five stitches of the chain in a ring; * 3 ch, 
miss three stitches of the foundation chain, 1 dc in the next stitch, repeat 
from the star to the end of the chain. 

Second Row. — * Work 3 ch, 6 tr in 3 ch of the preceding row; repeat, 
from the star. 

Tliird Rmv. — * Work 3 ch, 6 tr between the first and second tr's of shell 
of previous row, fastening with an sc between third and fourth tr's of same 
shell; repeat from the star across the row. Then turn and work G tr be- 
tween each shell of the preceding row, working on the same foundation, 
fastening with an sc in the center cf the shell of preceding row. These extra 
shells are for the purpose of filling np the spaces between the shells of the 
preceding row and giving the work a full, rounding appearance. 

Fourth and All Even Rows. — Same as second, only working the shells in 
the sc's of the preceding row. 

Fifth and All Odd Rous. — Like the third. 

Widen on both ends of the even rows by working a shell as near to the 
edge as possible. 

Finish with a border of deep shells, made by throwing the thread over 
the needle four times, and working off one thread at a time, as in trebles, 

SHOULDER CAPE. 

Materials: German knitting yarn, and a medium-sized bone crochet 
needle. 

Make a chain of 71 .stitches. 

First Row. — Work 1 tr in each of the first three stitches, 3 tr in the next 
stitch, 1 tr in each of the next three stitches, 1 ch, miss one stitch, 1 tr iu 
each of the next three stitches, 3 tr iu the next, 1 tr in each of the next 
three stitches, 1 ch, miss one stitch. This completes two groups of 9 tr with 
1 ch between. Repeat across the foundation chain, when there should bo 
nine groups. 



266 Home Decorative Work. 

Second Row. — Work 1 tr in 1 tr of previous row, working 3 tr m center 
treble of eacli group, and separating the groups ])y 1 ch. 

AU Even Boxes. — Same as second. 

All Odd Mows. — Widen by working 5 tr in the center treble of each 
group. 

When the cape is of the desired length, finish with a border in shell 
stitch. Draw ribbon through the holes formed by the 1 ch's lengthwise of 
the cape, and use ribbons for ties. 

CROCHETTED CAPE. 

Begin at the bottom with 355 chain stitches and crochet sixty-two rows 
in the well known afghan stitch. Each "pattern" row of this stitch con- 
sists of two rounds, one forward in which the stitches are taken up and re- 
tained on the needle, and one bac k in which they are worked off. 

In each pattern row of the sixty-two, decrease two stitches in the mid- 
dle of the back, for which work off the three middle stitches in the second 
round together, and in the first round of the following pattern row take up 
only one stitch (the middle one) out of the three. Decrease also by one 
stitch at the beginning and end of every second pattern row, for which work 
off two stitches together and take up only one stitch out of them. 

In addition to these decreasings, work two of one stitch each on each 
side for the slope of the shoulder, beginning in the forty-fifth round at the 
seventy-first stitch from the back. 

Work these decreasings in every round to the sixtieth inclusive, bring- 
ino- them in a straight line over one another in such a manner that the number 
of stitches is steadily lessened. After completing the sixty -second row, edge 
the neck with a round in single crochet, and then with one in double 
crochet. 

For the frill at the neck, which is overseamed to it, work four pattern 
rows in afghan stitch on a foundation of corresponding length, and then for- 
ward and back, four raised rows on the surface with a lighter shade, one on 
the stitch of each pattern row, making alternately one slip-stitch around the 
next upright vein, and three chain stitches. 

For the border, take two lighter shades; and, with each of them, crochet 
a foundation chain about five and three-fourths yards long, and work on it 
a round of double crochet. Fold each through the middle, fasten to some- 
thing, and braid the four ends together. 

Join the ui>per edge of the braid to the bottom of the cape with a round 
worked in the darkest shade, working alternately one single crochet on the 
edge of the braid, and one slip-stitch on the cape. 

Work along the lower edge of the liraid as follows: Use the darkest 
shade. 

First Bound. — Work 1 sc on .stitch of l)raid, 1 ch; repeat, passing one 
stitch for each chain. 



Crochet Work. 267 

Second Hound. — Second shade; work alternately 5 de aroinid chain in 
preceding row and pass five stitches. 

Third Hound. — Work 2 sc on the next 2 dc in last round, 4 sc separated 
by 3 ch on the foUoAving dc, 2 sc on the next dc, 1 sc on the middle of the 
next five passed in the preceding round; repeat. 

Next, work with the lightest shade two i-ounds like the last, only trans- 
posing them. Then another row the same way, using the second darkest 
shade. 

Finally, work the seventh round with the darkest shade as follows: 1 sc 
in the middle dc of the next five in the preceding round, 3 ch, 1 sc around 
the 3 ch between the middle two of 4 sc in the round before the last, encir- 
cling the vein in the last round above it, 3 ch; repeat. 

Cut strands of wool composed of five strands each sixteen inches long, 
and knot one over each chain scallop in the last round. 

For the border, along the front edges of the cape, work six rows in sin- 
gle crochet, taking each stitch through the whole chain of the stitches in the 
preceding round, and working the first round with the darkest shade, the 
second and third rounds with the next lighter, the fourth and fifth rows 
•with the third and fourth shades respectively, and the sixth with the 
darkest. 



This shawl is made of ice wool. Make a chain of four stitches and join. 

First Hound. — Make 3 ch, 1 dc in the stitch that joins the 4 ch, 3 ch, 
* 1 dc in the next stitch, 3 ch, 1 dc in the same stitch, 3 ch; repeat from the 
star twice more, 1 dc under 3 ch. 

Second Hound. — Make 3 ch, 1 dc under 3 ch last worked under, * 3 ch, 1 
dc in middle of next 3 ch; repeat from the star all round, increasing at each 
corner by working twice in the same stitch, and continue to work thus for 
three rows more, then begin the raised patterns, which are worked only on 
the half of the square which turns over. 

Sixth Hound. — Work as before directed until you have turned the third 
corner, then make 8 ch, 1 dc in the middle of next 3 ch, 3 ch, 1 dc in the 
middle of next 3 ch, 8 ch, 1 dc in the middle of corner chain, 3 ch, 1 dc in 
same stitc/i, 8 ch, 1 dc in the middle of 3 ch, 3 ch, 1 dc in the middle of the 
next 3 ch, 8 ch, 1 dc in the middle of next chain. 

The pattern is continued as described except that in the next four rows 
the doul)les after the chain stitches for the raised patterns are worked in the 
doubles between the chain; the increase is made as usual at the corner, but 
does not interfere with the pattern. 

Eleventh Hound. — After having turned the third corner, work 1 dc in the 
dc before the first 8 ch, 3 ch, 1 dc in the next dc; repeat from the beginning 
iiine times more. 



268 Home Decorative Work. 

Twelfth JiOund. — After having turned the third corner, work 1 dc in the 
middle of 3 ch, 3 ch; re^^eat to end of round. 

Thirteenth Round. — Like the twelftli. 

In the fourteenth round the raised patterns are begun again, after 
having turned the third corner. Repeat from the sixth to the thirteen'ib 
rounds until the shawl is large enough. 

For the border: 

First Round. — Work 1 dc into a stitch, * 8 ch, pass over three stitches,. 
1 dc in next 3 ch, pass over three stitches, 1 dc in the next; repeat from the 
star. 

Second Round. — Work 1 dc in first dc of last row, * 8 ch, 1 dc in next 
dc, 3 ch, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from the star. 

This last row is repeated eleven times. 

SHAWL IN" CRAZY STITCH. 

This is worked with ice wool. Make a chain a yard and a quarter irr 
length; turn, miss 3 ch, 3 tr in next stitch, * pass over 2 ch, 1 sc in next 
stitch, 3 ch, 4 tr iu same stitch; repeat from the star, breaking the wool at 
the end of every row. When the shawl is perfectly square, work dc's all 
around it, having them close enough together so that the work may lay flat, 
and the same distance apart. It is necessary that this part of the work 
should be done very evenly, or the border will not look well. 

For the border: 

First Round. — Work 1 dc in the first dc of last row, 2 ch, pass over two 
stitches, 1 dc in the next; repeat all the way around, working the dc's close 
together at the corners, that the work may lay flat. 

Second Round. — Work 1 dc in the first stitch. 3 ch, pass over three 
stitches, 1 dc in the next; repeat. 

Third Round. — Work 2 double trebles iu each of four stitches, 3 ch, i;ass 
over four stitches, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in next stitch, 2 ch, pass over lour 
stitches; repeat from the beginning of the round. 

Fourth Round. — Work 1 dc in each of the eight double trebles, 4 ch, 
(1 tr, 3 ch, 1 tr) In chain between the two trebles of last round, 4 ch; rc^jeat 
from the beginning of the round. 

Fifth Round.— Vf^ork 1 dc iu each of 8 dc of last round, 4 ch, (1 tr, 3 ch, 
1 tr) in middle stitch of 3 ch of last round, 4 ch; repeat from the beginning 
of the round. 

Sixth Round. — Pass over 1 dc of last round, 1 do in each of next six dc's, 
4 ch, (1 tr, 3 (;h, 1 tr) in middle stitch of 3 ch, 4 ch; repeat from beginning of 
round. 

Seventh Round. — Work 1 dc iu each dc of last row, 4 ch, 4 tr, each sepa- 
rated by 1 ch under 3 ch, 4 ch; repeat from 1)eginning of round. 

Eighth Round. — Pass over 1 dc, 1 dc in each of four center stitches draw- 



Crochet Work. 269 

ing them all into one stitch, 4 ch, * (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) under 1 ch of last row, 

1 ch; repeat from star twice more; repeat from the beginning of the round. 

XiniJi Eound. — Work 1 double treble into the cluster of dc's, 2 ch, pass 
over 4 ch, 9 tr, each separated by 1 ch under the 1 ch stitches of last round, 

2 ch; repeat from the beginning of the round. 

Tenth Bound. — "Work 1 sc into the double treble, 2 ch, pass over three 
stitches, 1 dc into the next, 1 ch, pass over one stitch, 1 dc in the next, 1 ch, 
pass over one stitch, 1 dc in the next, * 2 ch, pass over two stitches, 1 dc in 
the next; repeat from the star once more, * 1 ch, pass over one stitch, 1 dc 
in the next; repeat from the star three times more, 2 ch; repeat from the be- 
ginning of the round. 

SHOULDER SHAWL IN TRICOT. 

Materials: twelve ounces of four-thread white wool, three ounces of 
■colored wool, one skein white filoselle, and a tricot hook No. 8. The whole 
shawl, with the exception of the border, is in tricot. 

Begin at the bottom with a chain of 343 stitches with white wool, and 
work two rows without decrease or increase. 

TIdrd liotc. — In this row the little stripe pattern begins. Divide the 
colored wool into sixteen 'balls, each of which must be in place ready to work 
up and off with. In this and all following rows a regular decrease is made 
by working the second and third stitches together at the beginning and end of 
rows; also two stitches on each side of one hundred seventy-second (the middle) 
stitch must be worked together. The colored stripes are worked eighteen 
inches apart; they consist of eight stitches in height and one in width, and 
are kept quite even. Between these stripes five plain rows are worked in white 
wool. Continue working as described until the fifty-second row is finished; 
then begin the sixth row of stripes. Beside the decrease before mentioned, 
decrease by working together the ninth and tenth of the eighteen stitches 
lying between the stripes. The same decrease is repeated to the ends to 
form the shoulder three times, viz., in the fifty-fifth, fifty-seventh and fifty- 
ninth rows. 

In the following seven rows three side stitches of the pre-vious rows are 
left untouched. Finish in the sixty-seventh row. 

In the front sides of the shawl work four rows of double white wool, re- 
peating the stripe pattern in colored wool, leaving twelve stitches between 
each. Embroider the stripes over with four stitches of white filoselle. 
"Work a row of dc in white wool around the lower edge of the shawl, to 
which the scallops are attached, also a fringe of six loops of wool four inches 
long. 

For the border: 

First How.—* "Work 1 dc, 3 ch, missing 2 dc; repeat from the star. 

Second How. — "Work 1 dc in the first dc of the previous row, * 3 ch, 1 do 
in the middle of the next, 3 ch; repeat from the star. 



270 Home Decorative Work. 

Work a row of dc around the neck ; on each side of this work into one 
stitch (1 dc, 3 tr. 1 dc), miss two dc, and repeat across. 

WKAP. 
Materials : ten ounces of white wool and a crochet hook No. 8. 
Work 3 ch and join in a ring. Work 3 dc into this; *then 2 dc into 
each of the dc's of the previous round; repeat tjom the star once. There 
should now be twelve stitches. 

First Bound. — Work 2 tr in each stitch. 

Second Round. — Work 8 tr into the first hole (working over into the pre- 
ceding row), * miss four stitches, 8 tr into the next hole; repeat from the 
star around the circle. There should be six groups of 8 tr each. Join the 
round with a single crochet. 

Third Round. — Work 8 tr into the center of the group; between the 
second and third tr's of the preceding row work 4 tr, miss two tr's, 4tr, miss 
two tr's, 4 tr; this makes three groups of 4 tr. Eepeat in the remaining 
five groups. 

Fourth Round. — * Work 4 tr in the first group of 4 tr of the preceding 
round, 4 tr in the second group, and 4 tr in the third group. Miss the hole 
and rej)eat from the star. 

Fiflli Round. — Work 4 tr in the first group, * 3 tr in the corner group, 4 
tr in each of the next two groups; repeat from the star. 

Sixth Round. — Work 4 tr into the center of each group. 
Seventh Round. — Like the sixth. 

Eighth Round. — Work 4 tr into the center of each group except :;t the 
corners; then work 8 tr. 

Eepeat from the sixth round until the wrap is of the desired size. Then 
double exactly in half and add a fringe to the doubled edge. The work is 
much prettier crochetted loosely. 

boy's cap in crochet. 
Materials: two and one-half ounces of Hamburg wool. 
This cap is worked in single crochet, beginning with the top of the 
crown. For this a round eight and one-half inches in diameter is made, the 
last round having forly stitches. 

In the next round the wave-like part is commenced liy working alter- 
nately 1 sc in 1 sc of the previous round, 3 sc in the next stitch, by which 
the number of stitches is increased to eighty, and twenty waves are formed. 
In the following sixteen rounds increase in the same manner, working 3 
sc in the middle stitch of 3 sc of previous round, and 1 sc in all other sc's of 
that wave. Then work four plain rows. 

The decrease in the hollows of the points is begun in the fifth row, by 
always passing over one stitch ; in the sixth to the twentieth rows (inclusive) 
the two middle stitches are passed over. 

The twentieth row should contain one hundred stitches, which gives 




Crochet Work. 271 

just the width of the band, eighteen and one-half inches. For this six rows 
are -worked, catching iip always the whole tij)per link of each stitch. A 
large pompon hides the flat top of the crown. 

JOCKEY CAP. 
Make a chain of seven stitches ; turn. (See Fig. 172.) 
First How. — ^Make 1 tr in the fourth stitch, and into each of the other 
three. The rest is worked in rounds, not rows. 

First Round. — ^Work 5 tr along the side of last tr, which brings you to- 
the first stitch of the foundation chain, 3 tr in this stitch, 1 tr in each of th© 
next two stitches. 4 tr in the next, 1 tr in the next, 4 tr in the next. Con- 
tinue in this way, increasing whenever 
necessary to shape the cap. In the second 
round you should have thirty-seveu 
stitches; in the third, ' fifty-four; in the 
fourth, eighty; in the fifth, ninety-six; 
in the sixth, one hundred and nine; in the 
Fig. 172. seventh, one hundred and twenty-two; in 

the eighth, one hundred and thirty-seven. 

The last rounds increase less frequently. There are seventeen rounds 
altogether, and the last three do not increase at all. For the front and back 
flaps cut a piece of cardboard the desired shape, and work a piece to fit 
them. Bind the cap with black galloon, and line it with leather and thin, 
satin. Cover a button for the top of it. 

CAP FOR INFANT. 

Use the bleached linen spool thread No. 60. Two spools will be needed. 

Make a chain of eight stitches; join. 

First Round. — Work 24 dc in the ring. 

Second Romid. — Work 1 dc with 1 ch between in each dc of last rounds 

Tliird Round. — Work 1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc in each dc of last round. 

Fourth Round. — Work 2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc in each 1 ch of last round. 

Fifth Round. — Like the fourth. 

Sixth Round. — Work 2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc in each 1 ch of last round. 

Seventh Round. — Work 3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc in each 2 ch of last round. 

Eighth Round. — Work 3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc in each 2 ch of last round. 

Ninth Round. — Work 3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc in each shell of last round, and 1 
dc between the shells. 

Tenth Round. — Work 4 dc, 3 ch, 4 dc in each shell of last round, 1 dc in 
the 1 dc's of last round. 

Repeat this last round until the cap is large enough to come dowu 
around the neck and slightly over the forehead. 

Border for the front: 

First Row. — Work 2 shells in shell of previous row, 1 shell in next 
shell, 2 shells in next, 1 shell in next, *3 shells in next; repeat from 



272 



Home Decorative Work. 



the star seven times, 1 shell in next, 2 shells in next, 1 shell in next; 
turn. 

Second Row. — Work 1 shell in each shell of previous row. 
"Work four row^like second row. 
Border for the neck : 

First Kow. — Work 2 shells in one shell, 1 shell in next shell, all the 
•way across. 

Second Row. — Work 1 shell in each shell all the way across. 
Starch and iron the ruffle on the front of the cap, and lay two quarter- 
inch pleats in the middle of the top of the cap close to the border; bring the 
ruffle back over the pleats and fasten with a bow of ribbon, also having rib- 
bon ties. For winter wear the cap might be made of silk and lined with 
some warm material. 

gentleman's smoking cap. 
Use a fine crochet hook and knitting silk No. 300. (See Fig. 173.) 
Make a chain of three stitches; join, and work round and round in 

double crochet, always taking 
up the back of the stitch. In- 
crease by Avorking two stitches 
in one, as often as is necessary 
to keep the work perfectly 
flat. Work twelve rounds in 
this way. 

Thirteenth Round. — Make 3 
ch, pass over 2 dc, 1 tr in the 
next; repeat twenty-seven 
times; in the ninth, 
eighteenth and twenty- 
Fi(i. 17;;. seventh tr's, pass over but one 

tic instead of two, thus widening. 

Fourteenth Bound. — Make 3 ch, 1 tr over the next 3 ch, 3 ch, 2 tr over 
the next 3 ch; repeat from the beginning. 

Fifteenth Round. — Make 3 ch, 1 tr over the next 3 ch, and repeat, work- 
ing 2 tr instead of 1 tr as often as is necessary to keep the work flat. Ee- 
.peat this round three times more. 

Nineteenth .Round. — Make 3 dc over the 3 ch, 1 dc in the treble, and re- 
peat, increasing to keep the work flat. This round is repeated eleven times 
more. 

Thirty-first Round. — Make 3 ch, pass over 2 dc, 1 tr in the next, 3 ch, . 
pass over 3 dc, 1 tr in the next; repeat from the beginning 

Thirty-second Round. — Make 3 ch, 1 tr over the next 3 ch, repeat three 
times mcr^, 3 ch, 1 tr, 3 ch, 1 tr over the next chain; repeat from the be- 
ginning. 




Crochet Work. 273 

Thirty-third Round. — Make 3 ch, 1 tr over the next 3 ch; repeat from the 
beginning. The next two rounds are like this one. 

Thirty-sixth Round. — Work 1 dc on each tr, 4 dc over 3 ch; repeat all 
round. The next four rounds are plain^-dc over dc. 

Forty-first Hound. — Work 2 dc, 2 ch, pass over 2 dc, 4 dc; repeat. "Work 
fourteen rounds of plain do's. 

Fifty-sixth Round. — Make 3 ch, 1 tr, * pass over 3 dc, 1 tr, 3 ch; repeat 
irom the star. This round must be repeated five times more, working the 
treble over the 3 ch. 

Sixty-second Round. — Work 3 dc over the 3 ch, 1 dc in the tr's; repeat. 

Work twenty rounds of plain dc's, then fasten off. Line the work with 
■silk, and sew in a piece of leather an inch and three-quarters in width for the 
head. 

infant's sacque in crazy stitch. 

This sacque is worked with white split zephyr and a small bone hook. 
It is in crazy stitch and has three rows of long roll picots for a border at the 
bottom, finished with chain scallops. The three rows are about four inches 
deep. One row with the chain scallops extends up the sides and around the 
sleeves. The neck is finished with the chain scallops, and open spaces 
through which ribbons are drawn. 

Make a chain of 64 stitches. 

First Row. — Miss 3 ch, 3 tr in the next stitch, * miss 2 ch, 1 sc in next 
stitch, 3 ch, 3 tr in same stitch; repeat from the star to the end of the row. 
There should be twenty shells. 

Second Row. — Make 3 ch, 3 tr in the sc at the end of the first row, 1 sc 
•under the 3 ch of first shell, * 3 ch, 3 tr in the same place, 1 sc in 3 ch of 
next shell ; repeat from the star twice more ; widen by making one double 
shell in the next shell thus: (1 sc in second tr of shell, 3 ch, 3 tr under the 
same tr, 1 sc under the 3 ch of same shell, 3 ch, 3 tr under same place), now 
make 1 shell, 1 double shell, 6 shells, 1 double shell, 1 shell, 1 double shell, 
4 shells. 

Third Row.— Make 3 ch, 10 shells, 1 double shell, 10 shells. 

Fourth Row. — Make 3 ch, 4 shells, 1 double shell, 1 shell, 1 double shell, 

1 shell, 1 double shell, 7 shells, 1 double shell, 1 shell, 1 double shell, 1 
shell, 1 double shell, 4 shells. 

Fifth Row. — Make 3 ch, single shells all the way across. 

Sixth Row. — Make 3 ch, 5 shells, 1 double shell, 2 shells, 1 double shell, 

2 shells, 1 double shell, 3 shells, 1 double shell, 3 shells, 1 double shell, 2 
shells, 1 double shell, 2 shells, 1 double shell, 5 shells. 

Seventh Row. — Like fifth. 

Eighth Roio. — Make 3 ch, 6 shells, 1 double shell, 2 shells, 1 double 
shell, 2 shells, 1 double shell, 11 shells, 1 double shell, 2 shells, 1 double 
shell, 2 shells, 1 double shell, 6 shells. 
18 



274 Home Decorative Work. 

Ninth i?o«'.— Make 3 ch, 21 shells, 1 double shell, 21 shells. 

Tenth Jioiv. — Make 3 ch, 7 shells, 1 double shell, 7 shells, 1 double shelly 
12 shells, 1 double shell, 7 shells, 1 double shell, 7 shells. 

Eleventh Row. — Make 47 shells. 

Twelfth Row. — Make 7 shells, miss 9 shells of the previous row, and join- 
to the tenth with an sc, 7 shells, 1 double shell, 5 shells, miss 9 shells, and 
join to the tenth as before. The shells passed over are for the sleeves. 

The thirteenth, fourteenth, sixteenth and seventeenth rows consist of 
one shell in each shell of the former row. 

Fifteenth Row. — Make 3 ch, 14 shells, 1 double shell, 14 shells. 

Eighteenth Row. — Make 1 double shell in middle of the row; all the rest 
single shells. 

The nineteenth and twentieth and twenty-second rows are like the thir- 
teenth. 

Twenty-first Row. — Like eighteenth. 

Twenty-third Roiv. — Make 3 ch, 8 shells, 1 double shell, 16 shells, 1 
double shell, 8 shells. 

Twenty-fourth Roiv. — Make 3 ch, 18 shells, 1 double shell, 18 shells. 

Txventy-fifth Row. — Like thirteenth. 

For the border: 

First Row. — Put the hook through the first stitch of the first shell at the- 
bottom of the sacque, and draw up a loop one inch in length, put wool over, 
put the hook again through the same stitch and draw up another long loop, 
wool over, draw through two loops leaving the top loop of each on the hook, 
wool over, put the hook under the 3 ch of first shell, draw up three long 
loops, then draw the thread through all seven loops on the hook at once, and 
finish with 1 ch. Now make 3 ch, three long loops under the chain of first 
shell, three long loops under the chain of second shell, wool over, draw through, 
all seven loops on the hook, 1 ch ; repeat across the bottom of the sacque. 

Second Row. — Make 4 ch, three long loops in the 1 ch which fastens the 
group of long loops of former row, three long loops in the first stitch of 3 ch 
between the groups, draw the loops into one stitch, 1 ch, * 3 ch, three long 
loops in the third stitch of the 3 ch the last three loops are in, three long 
loops in the third stitch of the 3 ch the last three loops are in, three long 
loops in 3 ch between the next groups, draw loops into one stitch, 1 ch ; re- 
peat from the star, fasten wool and break it oflf. 

Tliird Row. — This is like the second, but begins at the upper right side 
of the sacque and goes all the way round. 

Fourth Row. — Make two picots of 4 ch ea«h under each 3 ch between the 
groups of long loops. 

Neck: 

First Row. — Fasten the wool with an sc in the 1 ch that closes the group 
of long loops, * 3 ch, 1 tr; repeat from the star across the neck; turn. 



Crochet Work. 



275 



Second Koto. — Make 4 ch, 1 sc in 3 ch, miss 2 tr., 1 sc under next 3 ch; 
repeat. 

Sleeves: 

Make ten rows of nine shells each. The last stitch of each row is 
fastened with sc in the first stitch of the row. This is Avorked round and 
round and the wool is not hroken off. Finish the sleeves with two rows of 
long loops and the picot edge. 

infant's sacqtte in star stitch. 
Materials: split zephyr of some delicate shade, and a bone needle. 




Fig. 174. 

The increase or double star is done by making a small star of only three 
stitches between two other stars. 

Make a chain of eighty-three stitches. 

First Row. — Make forty stars. 

Second Row. — (^lake 3 stars, 1 double star) twice, 1 star, 1 double star, 
8 stars, 1 double star, 1 star, 1 double star, 8 stars, 1 double star, 1 star, 1 
double star, 8 stars. 

Third Roic. — Make 8 stars, 1 double star, 25 stars, 1 doultle star, 3 stars, 
1 double star, 8 stars. 

Fourth Rote. — Make 6 stars, 1 double star, 1 star, 1 double star, 4 stars, 
1 double star, 7 stars, 1 double star, 3 stars, 1 double star, 9 stars, 1 double 
star, 5 stars, 1 double star, 1 star, 1 double star, 6 stars. 



276 Home Decorative Work. 

Fifth Row. — Make ^ stars, 1 double star, 6 stars, 1 double star, 23 stars, 
1 double star, 7 stars, 1 double star, 9 stars. 

Sixth Row. — Make 5 stars, 1 double star, 3 stars, 1 double star, 8 stars, 
1 double star, 5 stars, 1 double star, 10 stars, 1 double star, 6 stars, 1 double 
star, 9 stars, 1 double star, 9 stars. 

Seventh Row. — Make 10 stars, 1 double star, 10 stars, 1 double star, 25 
stars, 1 double star, 11 stars, 1 double star, 4 stars, 1 double star, 4 stars. 

Eighth Row. — Make 2 stars, 1 double star, 7 stars, 1 double star, 12 stars, 
1 double star, 20 stars, 1 double star, 4 stars, 1 double star, 21 stars, 1 
double star, 2 stars. 

Ninth Row. — Make 11 stars, 1 double star, 14 stars, 1 double star, 3 
stars, 1 double star, 22 stars, 1 double star, 14 stars, 1 double star, 11 stars. 

Tenth Row. — Make 5 stars, 1 double star, 5 stars, 1 double star, 16 stars, 
1 double star, 1 star, 1 double star, 22 stars, 1 double star, 2 stars, 1 double 
star, 16 stars, 1 double star, 5 stars, 1 double star, 16 stars, 1 double star, 1 
star, 1 double star, 22 stars, 1 double star, 2 stars, 1 double star, 16 stars, 1 
double star, 5 stars, 1 double star, 5 stars. 

Eleventh Row. — Make 12 stars, 1 double star, 18 stars, 1 double star, 29 
stars, 1 double star, 18 stars, 1 double star, 12 stars. 

Tvselfth Row. — Make 9 stars, 1 double star, 2 stars, 1 double star, 20 
stars, 1 double star, 13 stars, 1 double star, 1 star, 1 double star, 13 stars, 1 
double star, 20 stars, 1 double star, 2 stars, 1 double star, 9 stars. 

Thirteenth Row. — Make 12 stars, 1 double star, 1 star, draw the next 
two stitches together, 4 stars, draw the next two together, 1 star, draw the 
next two together, 6 stars, draw the next two together, 3 stars, 1 double 
star, 30 stars, 1 double star, draw the next two stitches together, 4 stars, 
draw the next two together, 11 stars, draw the next two together, 2 stars, 1 
double star, 13 stars. 

Tie place for sleeves together. 

Fourteenth Roio. — Make 33 stars, 1 double star, 23 stars, 1 double star, 1 
star. 

Fifteenth Row. — Make 1 star, 1 double star, 23 stars, 1 double star, 35 
;Stars. 

Sixteenth Row. — Make 4 stars, 1 double star, 19 stars, 1 double star, 12 
stars, 1 double star, 20 stars, 1 double star, 4 stars. 

Seventeenth Row. — Make 67 stars. 

Eighteenth Row. — Make 7 stars, 1 double star, 15 stars, 1 double star, 18 
stars, 1 double star, 16 stars, 1 double star, 7 stars. 

Nineteenth Row. — Make 71 stars. 

Twentieth .Row. — Make 11 stars, 1 double star, 17 stars, 1 double star, 17 
stars, 1 double star, 12 stars, 1 double star, 10 stars. 

Sleeve: 

Work three rows of twenty-four stitches each. 



Crochet Work. 277 

Fourth Rotv. — Make 8 stars, draw the next two stitches together, make 
7 stars, draw the next two together, 5 stars. 

Fifth Roio. — Make 2 stars, draw the next two stitches together, make 18 
stars. 

Sixth Row. — Make 18 stars, draw the next two stitches together, make 1 
star. 

Seventh Row. — Make 10 stars, draw the next two stitches together, 8 
stars. 

ANOTHER CROCHETTED SACQUE. 

Materials: One ounce of split zephyr, one-half ounce knitting silk, and 
three yards narrow satin ribbon. 

Make a chain of 105 stitches. 

First Row. — Work 3 tr in every other stitch. 

Second Row. — Join the silk, * with silk and wool together fasten in edge 
of first stitch, miss 2 tr, fasten in ne.xt, 3 ch; miss 2 tr, 1 tr in next; repeat 
from the star to the end of the row. 

niird Row. — Work 8 ch with silk and wool together, place the needle in 
the loops of the preceding row, and fasten with a slip-stitch; repeat to the 
end of the row. 

Fourth Rotv. — Without breaking off the silk, 3 ch with thp wool, 
draw through preceding loop of silk and wool, 3 ch; repeat to the end of the 
row. 

Fifth Roir. — Work 3 ch with the wool, 1 tr in edge of first stitch, 2 tr in 
the loop of the preceding row, 1 tr where the loop of the preceding row was 
fastened, 2 tr in the next loop, 1 tr where it was fastened; repeat till there 
are 29 tr, the twenty-ninth fastened in fastening of the ninth loop of preced- 
ing row, tenth loop, 5 tr (for thesieeve), fastening the sixth tr in iastening of 
tenth loop of preceding row, 2 tr in next loop, fastening the 3 tr as before; 
repeat till there are 15 tr, including the fastening of the fifteenth, work 5 tr 
in the sixth loop from last increase, the sixteenth tr fastened as before; 
*work 2 tr in loop, third fastened as before, repeat from star till there are 
28 tr, twenty -ninth fastened in the tenth loop from last increase, 5 tr in next 
loop for the center of the back, fasten the sixth tr in the fastening of loop 
in which the increase has just been made, * 2 tr in next loop, third in fast- 
ening of loop; repeat from star till there are 29 tr, including Iastening of 
twenty-ninth, 5 tr in next loop, sixth in the fastening of loop, * 2 tr, third 
fastened as before; repeat from star till there are 15 tr, including fastening, 
* 2 tr in loop, third in fastening as before; repeat from star till there are 28 
tr; the twenty-ninth stitch is the edge of the sacque. 

Sixth and Seventh Rows. — Same as second and third rows, with the silk 
and wool together. 

Eighth Roir. — Same as fourth. 



278 



Home Decorative Work. 



Ninth How. — Same as fifth row, with wool only, making an increase of 
five stitches in the center of the back. 

Tenth and Eleventh Rows. — Same as sixth and seventh. 

Twelfth and Sixteenth Bows. — Same as eighth. 

Thirteenth Eoio. — Same as fifth. ' 

Fourteenth and Fifteenth Koivs. — Same as sixth and seventh. 

Seventeenth Row. — Same as fifth. Now tie twenty-ninth treble and last 
treble of second increase together for first sleeve. The second sleeve is tied 
in the same way. 

Eighteenth and Nineteenth Rows. — Same as sixth and seventh. 

Twentieth Row. — Same as eisrht. 




Fig. 175. 

Twenty-first Row. — Work 3 ch, fasten in beginning of last row, 5 tr in 
the loop, fastening the sixth as usual, * 2 tr in loop, fastening third as be- 
fore; repeat from star till there are fifty-nine trebles, sixtieth fastened as be- 
fore, make 5 tr iu loop, sixth fastened as before, Avork 59 tr, fastening sixtieth 
as usual, 5 tr in loop, sixth in edge of sacque. 

Twenty-second and Twenty-third Rows.—^ume as sixth and seventh. 

Twenty-fourth Row. — Same as eighth. 

Twenty-fifth Row. — Work 3 ch; 1 tr in beginning of last row, 2 tr in 
loop, fasten as before, * 2 tr, fasten as before; repeat from star till there are 
65 tr, sixty-sixth fastened as before, 5 tr in loop, fasten sixth as before; 68 tr, 
sixty-ninth in edge of sacque. 



Crochet Work. 279 

Twenty-sixth and Twenty-seventh Rows. — Same as sixth and seventh. 

Make a row of holes through which to run the ribbon, as follows: 
"Work loosely 3 tr in first row of wool, beginning at the comer of the neck; 
1 tr in second row of silk and wool, 1 tr in third row of loo^w, 1 tr in second 
row of wool; repeat around the edge of the sacque, crochetting loosely at 
"the corners to prevent drawing. 

Border: 

Work 3 eh, catch with slip-stitch in one of the squares, 5 ch, catch in 
same square, 3 ch, catch in same square, 3 ch, catch in next square; repeat 
until there are five rows, the first row going only across the bottom of the 
sacque. 

SLEEVELESS JACKET FOR LADY. 

Materials: one-half pound double wool, and crochet hook No. 3 or 4. 

Make a chain of 90 stitches. 

Work four rows in tricot. 

Fifth Row. — Work 25 stitches, increase by picking up two stitches in 
one of previous row, work 40 stitches, increase again, work 25 stitches. 

Sixth Roio. — ^Work 25 stitches, increase, work 1, increase, work 40, in- 
crease, work 1, increase, work 25. 

Seventh Row. — Work 26, increase, work 1, increase, work 40, increase, 
work 1, increase, work 26. 

Continue to increase four times in every row, always in the same place, 
"thus forming the line under the arms. 

Work twelve rows like this. 

Twentieth Row. — Work to the thirty-eighth stitch, which should be the 
increasing stitch, and turn back. 

Twenty-first Row. — Work 37 stitches, then turn back. 

Twenty-second Row. — Work 36 stitches, then turn back. 

Twenty-third Row. — Work 35 stitches, then turn back. 

Work twenty-four rows on these 35 stitches. 

Forty-eighth ii'o it?.— Increase at the thirty -fourth stitch, or last but one. 

Eepeat this row twice more. 

Fifty-first Row. — Work 1 dc, the rest tricot, and back. 

Fifty-second Row. — Same as twenty-eighth ; increase at the other end of 
this row. 

Fifty-third and Fifty-fourth Rows. — Same as twenty-eighth. 

Fifty-fifth iJow'.— Tricot across, increasing on the end next the shoul- 
der. 

Fifty-sLvth Row.— Tricot across, leaving the last three stitches un- 
worked. 

Fifty-seventh 72ou».— Work 1 dc, tricot all but the last stitch, which is 
pulled through so as to decrease. 

Repeat this row eight times. 



280 



Home Decorative Work. 



Sixty-sixth fiow.— Work 1 dc, tricot across, decreasing at the end by 
leaving three stitches unworked. 

Sixty-seventh ^ow.— Work 1 dc, then 6 tricot. 

Sixty-eighth, Bote. — Work 3 dc. 

This ends the first side. Work the second side the same way. Then 
work across the back for thirty-six rows, bringing the back up to the shoul- 
ders. Join the back and shoulders together at the beginning and end of 
every row, decreasing every row at the back. If preferred, the back can be 
finished separately, and sewed to the shoulders, not forgetting to decrease- 
in order to fit the neck. 

Crochet a narrow edging around the neck and sleeves, and put ou rib- 
bons to tie at the neck. 

POP-CORN STITCH FOE HOODS. 

Make a chain of the desired length. 




Fig. 176. 
First How. — Work 3 tr in the third stitch from the beginning of the- 
chain, skip three stitches, and fasten with an sc in the fourth. ISIuke 3 tr 
in the same stitch that the sc is fastened in; skip three stitches and fasten 
with an sc in the next, and so continue to the end of the chain; turn. 



Crochet Work. 281 

Second Bow. — Make 2 ch; work 3 tr in the last sc made, then 
fasten with an sc in the next sc between the trebles of the last row, and 
make 3 tr in the same stitch, fasten with an sc in the next sc, make 3 tr in 
the same stitch and so continue to the end. 

The second row is repeated until the piece is of the desired width. 
This pattern is alike on both sides and is very pretty for hoods. The work 
has a softer and more raised appearance than the illustration shows. 

OPERA CAPOTE. 

Materials : one-half pound pink Andalusian wool, and a medium-sized 
bone hook. 

This pretty wrap is made in the shape of a scarf, one and one-half 
yards long and half a yard wide, and is worked in tricot stitch. 

Make a chain nineteen inches long. 

First Roio. — ^Work up and off in ordinary tricot. 

Second How. — Work up a loop through two perpendicular loops together^ 
put the wool over the hook, and repeat ; work off in the usual way. 

The second row is repeated until the scarf is of the required length. 
Fold the scarf together, join one side from the center for twenty inches ;. 
this will form a kind of hood. A row of woolen balls is placed over the- 
joined edges and along one side. The other side is finished with an edging, 
worked as follows: 

Work 1 dc into a stitch of tricot, miss one stitch, 5 tr separated by 1 ch 
in the next stitch, miss one stitch ; repeat across. 

One end is finished with a fringe made by knotting lengths of wool into 
the edge. The other is drawn up to a point and finished with a tassel. 

HOOD FOR INFANT. 

Materials: four ounces of Brilliantine wool, five j'ards of ribbon one 
and one-half inches wide, and a fine bone hook. 

Make a chain the length required for the edge of the cape. 

First Roto. — Draw up a loop through a stitch, 4 ch, work up a loop 
through each of the last three stitches of 4 ch, miss two stitches of founda- 
tion chain, draw up a loop through the next stitch, then through all the 
loops on the hook together ; repeat across, breaking ofi" the wool at the end 
of the row. 

Second Row. — Beginning again at the right-hand side to keep the work 
alike on the right side, draw up a loop between two scallops, 4 ch, draw up 
a loop through each of the first three stitches and one through the top of 
next scallop, draw through all the loops on the hook together ; repeat to the 
end of the row. 

All other rows are like the second. To shape the cape of the hood in 
the center, so as to narrow at the neck, draw up a loop through the top of 
two scallops together instead of through one. In commencing the part for 
the head, pass over four scallops at the beginning of the row, and do not 



■282 



Home Decorative Work. 



-work the last four scallops. In the remainder of the rows miss the first and 
last scallops of each row. 
For the edge: 

First Row. — Work 1 dc in each stitch. 

Second Eow. — Work 1 dc in do's of last row, miss one stitch, 5 tr in the 
next, miss one stitch ; repeat across. 

Eepeat the first and second rows of edge, and place loops of ribbon, 
between the rows of scallops, draw the hood up a little at the top, and fasten 
-with a bow of ribbon. Run a ribbon through the meshes of the work around 
the neck, leaving the ends long enough to tie in a bow in front. 

child's hood. 
This is made of knitting silk No. 300, o" of split zephyr. 

Make a chain of 10 
stitches ; join. 

First Bound. — Work 
25 sc in the ring. 

Second Round. — Make 
1 sc in every stitch of 
last row. 

Tliird Round. — Make 
1 sc in first stitch, * 2 sc 
in next, 1 sc in next ; 
repeat from star all the 
way around. 

The fourth, fifth, 
sixth, seventh and 
eighth rounds are like 
the third. The ninth 
and tenth rounds are 
like the second. 

Eleventh Round. — 
Make 6 dc in every fifth 
stitch. 

Tw e Ift h Rou n d. — 
Work 10 dc in the mid- 
dle of every shell, and 
1 sc in the middle one 
Fig. 177. of the five skipped 

stitclies between. 

Thirteenth Round. — Make 4 ch, fasten with sc in middle of each 10 dc. 

Fourteenth Round. — Make 1 dc in every stitch of previous row. 

Tliis finishes the crown. 

Fifteenth Hound. -Like the fourteenth, except tliat the thread is fast- 




Crochet ^A^ork. 



283 



ened before worMng over the last twenty-five stitches of crown, which forma 
the neck of the hood. 

Sixteenth Eaund. — Like fifteenth. 
The seventeenth and eighteenth rounds are like the eleventh and twelfth 
except that tlie thread is broken at the neck of the hood. The nineteenth, 
twentieth and twenty-first rounds are like the fifteenth. The twenty-second 
Tound is like the thirteenth, the twenty-third like the second. Any pretty 
lace may be used for the edge. 

TIDY OF THREAD AND RIBBON. 
The ctrt ^'hows one-fourth of the tidy. The squares are crochetted sepa- 
rately, and tlien joined by ribbon of any desired width and color, extending 




Fig. 178. 
■to the depth of the border. Thread or yarn of any size may be used, but 
very fine is preferable. 

Make a chain of eight stitches and join. 

First Round. — Work 4 ch, * 4 dc, 4 cli ; repeat from star three times 
more, and fasten in the top of first dc with a slip-stitch. 

Second Roimd. — * Work 4 dc, 4 ch, 4 dc, in 4 ch of previous round, 1 dc 
in each of the 4 dc of previous round ; repeat from star three times, fasten- 
ing with a slip-stitch in the first stitch of the round. 

Third Hound. — * Work 4 dc, 4 ch, 4 dc, in the 4 ch of previous round 
(thus making the corner), 1 dc in each of the 12 dc ; repeat from star three 
times, fastening with a slip-stitch. 



284 Home Decorative Work. 

Fourth Bound. — *Work 4 dc, 4 ch, 4 dc, in the comer, 1 dc in each of 
the 20 dc ; repeat from star three times, fastening with a slip-stitch. 

Fifth Round. — *Work 4 dc, 4 ch, 4 dc in the corner, 1 dc in each of the 
28 dc ; repeat from star three times, fastening with a slip-stitch. 

Sixth Mound. — *Work 4 dc, 4 ch, 4 dc in the corner, 1 dc in each of the 
36 dc ; repeat from star three times, fastening with a slip-stitch. 

Seventh Round. — * "Work 8 ch at the corner, 1 tr in the top of first dc, 
2 ch, thread over and put needle through the middle of tr, miss three 
stitches, put needle through next stitch, thread over, draAv through two- 
stitches at a time until one stitch only is left, 4 ch ; repeat from the star all 
the way around, working 8 ch at the corners, instead of 4 ch. 

Eighth Round. — *Work 6 dc, 4 ch, 6 dc in the corner, 4 ch, 6 dc in 4 ch 
of previous row, 4 ch, 6 dc in next space, 4 ch, 6 dc in next space, 4 ch, 6 dc 
in next space, 4 ch ; this brings you to the corner ; repeat from star three 
times fastening with a slip-stitch. 

Break off the thread, and fastening again in one corner, work across two 
sides of the square with small scallops, as follows: 2 ch, 2 dc in one stitch, 

2 ch, miss two stitches, 1 sc in next, miss two stitches, 2 dc in next, 2 ch, 1 
sc in same stitch. 

Now join the tidy together with No. 9 ribbon, crossing the pieces in the 
middle and thus joining the four squares, having the sides with the small 
scallops next the ribbon. 

Work 20 ch from the corner of one square to another across the rilibon, 
thus joining the squares. Break off the thread and fasten it in the center of 
the chain, * 5 ch, 1 tr in each of next two stitches, 4 ch, miss four stitches, 
1 tr in each of next three stitches ; repeat from star until the corner is- 
reached ; here, in order to keep the work from drawing, work 4 ch, miss two- 
stitches, 1 tr in each of next three stitches. Repeat around tlie tidj-. 

Second Round. — Beginning in the same place with 5 sc in the top of the 

3 tr of previous row, 7 ch; miss one group of 3 tr, 6 tr in next space, miss 
one group, 7 ch, 5 sc in top of next 3 tr ; repeat around the tidy. 

Third Round. — Work 3 sc in 5 sc of previous round, 10 ch, 6 tr in 6 tr, 
10 ch, 3 sc in 5 sc ; repeat around the tidy. 

Fourth Round. — *Work 1 dc in 3 sc of previous round, 10 ch, 1 dc in 
first tr of 6 tr of jjrevious round, form a picot by working 5 ch and fasten- 
ing with a slip-stitch in the second stitch of chain, 1 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 
picot, 1 ch, 1 dc in next tr, picot, 1 cli, 1 dc in next tr, picot, 1 ch, 1 dc im 
next tr, picot, 1 ch, 1 dc in next tr, picot, 10 ch ; repeat from star around 
the tidy. 

WHEEL FOB TIDY. 

This wheel made of No. 16 cotton is lovely for tidies. In seine twine it. 
makes a lambrequin that is very pretty when finished with knotted fringe- 
Make a chain of 10 stitches ; join. 



Crochet Work. 285 

First Round. — Make 3 ch, 23 tr iu the ring, fastening last tr to the 
second stitch of 3 ch with a slip-stitch. 

Second Bound. — Make 5 ch, 1 tr between first two tr's of first round, 3 
ch, pass over one space between tr's, 1 tr between next two tr's and so con- 
tinue all around, making twelve tr's and twelve spaces; fasten closely with 
an sc. 

Third Round. — Make 10 ch, pass over two stitches of the 10 ch, and 
work 1 tr in each remaining stitch, and fasten with an sc over the first tr of 
last round, make 1 ch, pass over one stitch, 1 sc in next, then make 10 ch, 
and work back on it as before. These ten chains form the ' ' spokes ' ' of 
the wheel and there should be twelve of them. 

Fourth Round. — Another set of twelve spokes must now be made, each 
one overlapping a spoke of the first round half way at the bottom. Do not 
break the thread, but begin by making 2 ch on the back of the wheel, fasten 
between the next two tr's, then make 10 ch, and work back as before. 
When the last one of the second row of spokes is made fasten the thread 
securely and break it ofi*. 

Fifth Round. — Fasten the thread with a slip-stitch in the top of one of 
the spokes, 4 ch, fasten in the top of the next spoke with a slip-stitch, 4 ch, 
fasten in the next spoke ; repeat all around. 

Sixth Rotind. — Make 4 ch, then make 4 tr between each spoke, or 5 tr if 
necessary to make the work lie flat. 

Seventh Round. — Make 7 ch, pass over the tr's made between the first 
two spokes, and fasten with an sc, 7 ch, pass over the next group of tr's and 
so continue all the way around. 

Eighth Round. — Work to the middle of the first 7 ch of previous round, 
making slip-stitches so as to show as little as possible ; then make 5 ch, 
fasten with a slip-stitch in fourth stitch of next 7 ch, 5 ch, fasten in next 7 
ch, and so on all around. 

Ninth Round. — Make 3 ch, 1 dc in the third stitch of 5 ch, 1 ch, 1 dc in 
same stitch. 3 ch, fasten in the same stitch in which the eighth round is fast- 
ened to the seventh, and repeat from the beginning of the row all around. 

Tenth Round. — Do not break the thread, but work to the top of the dc 
with sUp-st itches, make 5 ch, fasten in the first stitch of 3 ch, 7 ch, fasten in 
second stitch of 3 ch, 5 ch, fasten in third stitch of 3 ch, 4 ch, to the next dc; 
and repeat all around. There should be twenty-four scallops on the edge. 

This pretty pattern can be adapted to many uses besides the two already 
mentioned. Nothing is prettier for the top and bottom of around, crochetted 
box for collars and cnft's or jewelry. It should, of course, be stiffened with 
glue, stained and varnished, and lined with satin. 

WHEEL TIDY. 

Make a chain of eight stitches ; join. 

First Round. — Make 20 dc in the ring. 



286 Home Decorative Work. 

Second Round.— Make 3 ch, 1 dcin first stitch, *2 ch, 1 etc iu next; re- 
peat from star all around. 

Third Round. — Make 4 ch, 2 tr in 2 ch of preceding round, keeping top 
stitch of each iu needle, draw thread through all together, 5 ch, * 3 tr in 
next space, draw all into one stitch. 5 ch ; repeat from star around the wheel, 
5 ch, join in first 5 eh. 

Sew twenty of these wheels to form five squares of four wheels in » 
square. Place one square in center and one on each corner. Take No. 8 
ribbon and place it diagonally from comer to corner of tidy, crossing it in 
the center of the middle square. 

SQUARE FOR TIDY. 

For the stars which fill in the center of the square, make a chain of six 
stitches, and join. *Work 1 dc, 1 tr, 4 double trebles, 1 tr, and 1 dc, all in 
the 6 ch ; repeat from star three times more. In working the next stars, 
join by drawing through the two center double trebles of a cluster when 
working the corresponding double trebles of next star. Nine stars are 
joined together in this way to form a square. 

For the border: 

First Row. — Work one double treble into each of two clusters at the 
corner, 9 ch, * 1 tr into center of cluster, 7 ch, one double treble into side of 
cluster, 1 ch, one double treble into side of next cluster, 7 ch ; repeat from 
star to the end of row, making the long treble at each corner very loose. 

Second Row. — Work 1 tr, 1 ch, miss one ; repeat to the end of row, 
working 9 ch at each corner instead of 1 ch. 

Third Row. — Work 1 tr into a corner stitch, 8 ch, 1 tr into the same 
stitch, * 5 ch, miss four, 1 tr into the next stitch ; repeat from star eleven 
times, then repeat from the beginning of the row three times. 

The squares are sewed together to form table covers, tidies, etc. 

TIDY IN CROCHET. 

Materials: use fine crochet cotton, and a medium-sized steel hook. 

Make a chain the length required. 

First Row. ^^ovk 6 tr, *6 ch, miss four stitches, 6 tr. Repeat from 
star. 

Break off thread at end of each row. 

Second Row. — Work 6 ch, miss the 6 tr, 1 long tr into each of the first 
three stitches of the 6 ch, * 6 ch, 1 long tr in each of the remaining three 
stitches of 6 ch, miss the 6 tr, 1 long tr in each of the first three stitches of 
next 6 ch ; repeat from star. 

Third JSow.— Work 9 ch, * 1 tr in each stitch of the first 6 ch, fi ch ; re- 
peat from star. 

Repeat the second and third rows until the square is large enough. 

Border: 



Crochet Work. 



28T 



First ii'ow.— Work around the square ; 1 tr in every stitch, working 5 tr 
in one stitch at the corner. 

Second i.'oii'.— Work 8 ch, miss seven stitches, 6 tr in successive six 
stitches ; repeat until the corners are reached, then 6 tr, 4 ch, miss four 
stitches, 3 tr in one stitch, 4 ch, miss four stitches, 6 tr as before. 

Third Eoiv.—Wovk 4 ch, miss four stitches, * 10 tr in successive stitches, 
4 ch, miss four stitches ; repeat from star until the corners are reached, then; 




Fig. 179. 
after the 10 tr, 2 ch, miss two stitches, 7 tr, working the third and fourth tr's 
in the same stitch, 2 ch, miss two stitches, 10 tr. 

Fourth Row. — Work 4 ch, miss four stitches, 5 tr over the first five of 10^ 
tr, 3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr in each of the next two tr's; repeat from the 
beginning until the corners are reached ; after the 2 tr, work 3 ch, 5 tr, 2 ch, 
2 tr, in the top of the 7 tr, 3 ch, 5 tr as before. 

Fifth Mow. — Work 8 ch, miss eight stitches, 6 tr in successive stitches,^ 
working the first of these tr's in third of the last 5 tr's ; repeat all around. 
At the corners work 8 ch, miss six stitches, 6 tr, 8 ch as before. 

Sixth Row. — Work 1 tr in every stitch at the corners, 2 tr in the third 
and fourth of 6 tr. 



288 



Home Decorative Work. 



Seventh Row. — *Work 9 tr, 6 ch, miss three stitches ; repeal from star. 
At the corners, work 9 tr, 6 ch, 9 tr without passing over the 3 tr. 

Eighth Row. — * Work 7 tr, 4 ch, miss four stitches, 1 tr in the center of 
6 ch, 4 ch, miss four stitches ; repeat from star. 

Ninih Mow. — *"\Vork 5 tr in the top of 7 tr, 5 ch, miss five stitches, 1 tr 
in the top of last tr in the previous row; 5 ch ; repeat from star. 

Tenth Bote. — * Work 3 tr in the top of last 5 tr, 7 ch, 1 tr in the top of 
tr of last row, 7 ch ; repeat from star. 

Eleventh /?ow.— * Work 1 dc in the center of 3 tr, 7 tr, 5 ch, miss three 
stitches, 7 tr ; repeat from star. 




Fig. 180. 
Twelfth How. — * "Work 1 dc in the sixth of the last 7 tr, 1 ch, 1 dc in 
the second of the 7 tr of last row, 4 ch, miss two stitches, 1 dc in the next, 
5 ch, miss two stitches, 1 dc in the next, 5 ch, miss one stitch, 1 dc in the 
next, 5 ch, miss two stitches, 1 dc in the next, 4 ch, miss two stitches ; 
repeat from star, 

SPIDKR-WEB TIDY. 

Use fine thread, the finer the better, as it will give the work a more del- 
icate appearance. 



Crochet Work. 289 

Make a chain often stitches, and join in a ring. 

First Eotntd. — Work 24 dc in the ring. 

Second Round. — Work \^ ch, 1 dc in the third stitch of preceding round, 
2 dc between the fourth and fifth stitches, 2 ch, 2 dc in the same place, 2 ch, 
1 dc in the next stitch, 2 ch, 2 dc between the next two stitches, 2 ch, 2 dc 
in the same place, 2 ch, 1 dc in the next stitch, 2 ch, and so on around the 
ring, fastening with a slip-stitch in the first stitch made, in order to com- 
plete the round. 

TJiird Round. — * Work 2 dc in the 2 ch between the two groups of 2 dc 
of previous round, 3 ch, 2 dc in same place, 3 ch, 1 dc in the dc of pre^^ous 
round, 3 ch ; repeat from star all the way around, making the round com- 
plete as before. 

Continue thus for eight rounds, lengthening the chain between the 1 dc 
and the 2 dc of previous round as the web grows larger, to keep the work 
flat, and taking care to have the dc's in the same place in each round. 

Join the webs at the corners. The tidy may be made any size desired. 

WHEEL FOR TIDY. 

Make a chain of eight stitches ; join. 




Fig. 181. 
First Round. — Work 5 ch, 1 dc in ring, *2 ch, 1 dc in ring ; repeat from 
star twelve times, fastening last 2 ch in third stitch of first 5 ch of same 
round. 

Second J2o«wrf.— Work 8 ch, 2 dc in third stitch of 8 ch, 12 dc in the re- 
maining 5 ch, making 14 dc, 1 dc in second space of first round. 

Third y/ownd.— Work 5 ch, 1 dc between fifth and sixth dc's of first 
spoke, 2 ch, 3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc. 
19 



290 Home Decorative Work. 

Fourth Round. — Work 5 ch, 1 dc in first dc of third round, 2 ch, 1 dc in 
second dc, 2 ch, 1 dc in third dc, 13 dc in 5 ch, 1 dc in third space of first 
round. 

This finislies one spoke of the wheel. Kepeat until you have twelve 
spokes. Do not break the thread, but work to fifth stitch of the twelfth 
spoke, then 5 ch, 3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc, 5 ch, 1 dc in first dc, 2 ch, 1 dc, 
2 ch, 1 dc in third stitch of 5 ch ; fasten in the top of the first spoke, 
and work down to the end. 

child's crochetted skirt. 

Materials: Saxony or Germantown yarn, and a medium-sized hook. 

Take a piece of muslin the right size for a belt, and with a common 
needle threaded with the yarn, work a row of buttonhole stitches across the 
lower edge of the belt, leaving them loose enough to hold a crochet stitch. 
Then with the hook work * 1 dc in each of the first two stitches, 3 dc in the 
next, 2 dc in the next, miss two stitches, 1 dc into each of the next two 
stitches, 3 dc in the next, 2 dc in the next ; repeat from star across the belt. 

Second Bow. — Beginning with the second stitch work 2 dc in the 2 dc of 
last row, putting hook in the loop at the back, then 5 dc into the middle 
stitch of 3 dc of last row, 2 dc in 2 dc of last row ; repeat across the row. 

Third Bow. — "Work 3 dc in 2 dc of last row, 3 dc in the center stitch of 
group of five, 3 dc in 2 dc ; repeat across the row. 

Fourth Bow. — Work 3 dc in 3 dc of last row, 5 dc in center stitch of 
group of 3 dc, 3 dc in 3 dc ; repeat across the row. 

Fifth Bow. — Work 4 dc in 3 dc of last row, 3 dc in center stitch of 
group of 5 dc, 4 dc in 3 dc ; repeat across the row. 

Repeat this row until the skirt is of the desired length, and finish with 

a border of shell stitch. 

SKIRT FOR LADY— 1. 

Make a chain of 312 stitches, and join witli a tr. 

First Round.— Woxk 4 tr, * 3 tr all in one loop, 5 tr, miss two loops, 5 
tr ; repeat from star. 

Repeat this round until eighteen inches have been worked. 

Then miss three loops and work 4 tr instead of 5 tr, as in first round. 

Repeat this for four rounds. 

Then miss four loops, and work 4 tr ; continue this four rounds. 

Miss four loops, and work 3 tr ; continue this three rounds. 

Miss two loops, and work 3 tr ; continue tb' *bur rounds. 

Last /Jownrf.— Work 1 trin every loop. 

SKIRT FOR LADY — 2. 

This may be made either of Germantown or Saxony yarn. If German- 
town is chosen make a chain of 180 stitches, and join in a ring. Saxony 
yarn requires about twenty-seven stitches more. 

Make 1 dc in each of the first three stitches, 3 dc in the next stitch, 1 



Crochet Work. 291 

de in each of the next three stitches, pass over two stitches and repeat. 
Widen every ten or twelve rounds by making .5 dc in one stitch at the top of 
the point ; then proceed as before. Pnt a cord and tassel through the points 
at the top to fasten by. 

child's skikt. 

Make a chain of 156 stitches ; join. 
, First Hound. — Make 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches, * 3 tr in 
next stitch, 1 tr in each of next five stitches, pass over two stitches, 1 tr in 
each of next five stitches ; repeat from star. There should be twelve groups 
of 3 tr. 

Second Hound. — Make 7 tr in each tr of preceding row, and repeat this 
round eleven times. 

Fourteenth Hound. — Miss three stitches and work 4 tr instead of five. 

Fifteenth Hound. — Miss two stitches, and work 4 tr. 

Sixteenth Round. — Like fourteenth. 

Seventeenth Hound. — Miss four stitches, and work 3 tr. 

Eighteenth Hound. — Miss two loops, and work 3 tr. 

The nineteenth and twentieth rounds are like seventeenth. 

Twenty-first Hound. — Work 1 tr in every stitch. 

Finish with a band or knitted waist. 

SKIRT FOR BABY. 

Materials : one and one-half ounces of white Berlin wool, and a me- 
dium-sized bone hook. 

Make a chain of 156 stitches, and join with a tr. 

First Eound.^Work 4 tr, * 3 tr, all in one loop, 5 tr, miss two loops, 
5 tr ; repeat from star. 

There should be twelve of these scallops around the skirt. 

Kepeat the first round eleven times. 

Tliirteenth Hound. — * Miss three loops, work 4 tr ; repeat from star. 

Fourteenth Hound. — * Miss two loops, work 4 tr ; repeat from star. 

Fifteenth Hon)ul. — Same as fourteenth. 

Sixteenth Hound. — *Miss four loops, work 3 tr ; repeat from star. 

Seventeenth Round. — *Miss two loops, work 3 tr ; repeat from star. 

Work two more rounds like the seventeenth. 

Tiventieth Round. — Work 1 tr into every loop. 

Sew to a baud or knitted waist. 

BOOT FOR BABY. 

Materials : one-half ounce white Shetland wool, and a bone hook No. 11. 

Make a chain of 8 stitches, turn, and work into the first from the hook. 
Work 1 dc in every stitch, increasing in the middle stitch by working three 
stitches into one. Crochet into the back part of the loop in every alternate 
row, so a^s to make the work run in even ridges. Increase in the middle 
stitch in every row. When ten ridges are worked, make the side by work- 



292 Home Decokative Work. 

ing the first eleven stitches liackward and forwards for twenty-eight rows or 
fourteen ridges. Fasten this to the front part. 

Sole: 

Make a chain of 22 stitches and work in tricot. Increase at the begin- 
ning and end of every row for six rows, then work three rows without in- 
creasiugj then decrease in six rows. Sew the sole to the boot. 

Take up 40 stitches for the leg, first doubling back the three-cornered 
flap and tacking it down. 

Work three rounds in double crochet. 

Fourth Round. — *Work 2 ch, miss one loop, work 1 dc in the next ; re- 
peat from star all the way around. 

Work nine similar rows. 

Work a scallop for the edge, of 1 sc, 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr, into each loop. 

Run ribbon in the holes, and fasten a bow on the lappet. 

BOOT FOK INFANT. 

Make a chain of six stitches. 

First to Sixth Rows. — Work in plain afghan stitch. 

Seventh Row.— Raise the first three stitches, raise the next two stitches 
together, raise the sixth stitch ; work back as usual. 

Eighth to Thirteenth Rows. — Work in plain afghan stitch. 

Fourteenth Row. — Eaise the first loop, raise two in the second, one in 
the next, two in the next one in the next ; work back as usual. 

Fifteenth to Twenty-third Rows. — Work plain without increase or de- 
crease. 

Twenty-fourth to Thirty-sixth Rows. — Increase by raising two loops in 
the first and last stitches of each row. 

Thirty-seventh Row. — Raise all but the first two and last two stitches of 
the row. 

Thirty-eighth Row. — Raise all but the first three and last three stitches 
of the row. 

Beginning at the side, work on nine stitches, counting from the edge of 
front ; that is, the two stitches passed over in the thirty-seventh row, the 
three passed over in the thirty-eighth row, and four worked ofif the thir- 
ty-eighth row. Work twenty -six plain rows to form the sides and back of 
boot, and join with a needle and wool to the other side of the boot. The 
strip formed by the first twenty- three rows is for the sole. Work a row of 1 
dc in each stitch around the sole and sides of the boot, turn the work inside 
out, and gew the sole to the bottom of the boot. 

For the ankle : 

First Round. — Work 1 dc in each afghan stitch. 

Second Round. — * Work 1 tr in a stitch, 1 ch, miss one stitch ; repeat 
firom star all around. 



Crochet Work. 293 

Third Round. — Work 1 dc in a stitch, *6 ch, 1 dc in next stitch ; repeat 
from star all around. 

Repeat the third round tive times. 

Ninth Bound. — *Work 1 dc in a stitch, 1 ch, miss one stitch ; repeat 
from star all around. 

Tenth Round. — * Work 1 dc in a stitch, miss one stitch, 5 tr in the next, 
miss one stitch ; repeat from star all around. 

Eleventh Round. — "Work 1 dc in each stitch of last round. 

Run narrow rihhon through the holes formed in the second round, and 
tie in a how in front. 

MITTEN FOR BABY. 

Materials : one-half ounce of white wool, and a fine bone crochet hook. 

Make a chain of 36 stitches and join. 

Work three rounds of single crochet, and one round of treble crochet. 

Fifth Round. — Work 16 tr, crochet the seventeenth and eighteenth 
stitches together, and finish the round in treble crochet. 

Sixth Round. — Treble crochet Avithout increase. 

Seventh Round. — Same as fifth. 

Eighth Round. — Same as sixth. 

Ninth Round. — Same as fifth. 

I'enth Round. — *Work 1 tr, 1 ch, miss one loop; repeat from star all 
the way around. 

There should now be 32 stitches. 

Eleventh Round. — Work in single crochet, but in the sixteenth or center 
stitch increase by working three stitches instead of one. 

Twelfth Round. — Work in treble crochet, increasing at center stitch by 
working three stitches into one. 

In the next two rounds increase six stitches by working three into one 
on each side of the center stitches. 

Join the 12 stitches made by increasing so as to form the thumb, and 
work separately. Work four rounds in single crochet, three rounds decreas- 
ing every time, two rounds decreasing twice. Sew up the top, and go on 
with the hand. 

There should now be 30 stitches in the hand. Work two rounds of 
treble crochet, two rounds of trebles decreasing above the thumb and also in 
the thirteenth stitch, two rounds decreasing four stitches in each round. 

Sew up neatly on the wrong side, run narrow ribbon in the holes, and 
turn back the cuff. 

STAK COUNTERPANE. 

INIaterials : three-thread crochet cotton, and a rather fine steel crochet hook. 

The pattern given is for one square. The worker can teU by measuring, 
the number of sciuares that will be required. 

Make a chain of live stitches and join in a ring. 



294: Home Decorative Work. 

First Round. — Work 20 tr in the ring. 

Seco7id Hound. — *Work 1 dc in each of the first four stitches, 3 do in 
the next ; repeat from star three times. 

Third Round. — -*Work 1 tr in each of the first six stitches, 3 tr in the 
next ; repeat from star three times. ^/ 

Fourth Round. — Work 3 ch to take tlie place of a tr, *3 cli, miss three 
stitches, 1 tr in next, 3 ch, miss three stitches, 2 tr separated by 8 ch in the 
3 tr of last round, 3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr in the next ; repeat from 
star three times, and join with a dc in first 3 ch. 

Fifth Hound. — Work 6 ch, miss three stitches, *1 tr in next, 3 ch, 1 tr 
in each of first four stitches of 8 ch, 8 ch, 1 tr in each of next four stitches, 
3 ch, 1 tr in next, 3 ch ; repeat from star three times, and join with a dc in 
third stitch of 6 ch. 

Si.iih Round. — Work 6 ch, *1 tr in tr of last round, 3 ch, miss three 
stitches, 1 tr in each of next eight stitches, 8 ch, 1 tr in each of next eight 
stitches, 3 ch, 1 tr in next stitch, 3 ch ; repeat from star three times, and 
join with a dc in third stitch of 6 ch. 

Seventh Round. — Work 6 ch, *1 tr in tr of last round, 3 ch, miss three 
stitches, 1 tr in each of next twelve stitches, 3 ch, 1 tr in each of next 
twelve stitches, 3 ch ; repeat from star three times, and join with a dc in 
third stitch of 6 ch. 

Eighth Round. — Work 6 ch, *1 tr in the tr of last round, 3 ch, miss 
three stitches, 1 tr in each of next sixteen stitches, 8 ch, 1 tr in each of next 
sixteen stitches, 3 ch, tr in tr, 3 ch ; repeat from star three times, and join 
with a dc in third stitch of 6 ch. 

Ninth Round. — Work 6 ch, miss three stitches, * 1 tr in tr of last round, 
3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr in each of next twenty stitches, 8 ch, 1 tr in 
each of next twenty stitches, 3 ch, tr in tr, 3 ch ; repeat from star three 
times, and join with a dc in third stitch of 6 ch. 

Tenth Round. — Work 6 ch, miss three stitches, *1 tr in tr of last round, 
3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr in each of next twenty-four stitches, 8 ch, 1 tr 
in each of next twenty-four stitches, 3 ch, tr in tr, 3 ch ; repeat from star 
three times, and join with a dc in third stitch of 6 ch. 

Eleventh Round. — Work 6 ch, miss three stitches, ''^l tr in tr of last 
round, 3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr in each of next twenty-eight stitches, 
8 ch, 1 tr in each of next twenty-eight stitches, 3 ch, tr in tr, 3 ch ; repeat 
from star three times, and join with a dc in third stitch of 6 ch. 

Twelfth Round. — Work 6 ch, miss three stitches, *1 tr in tr of last 
round, 3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr in next, 3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr 
in each of next twenty-four stitches, 3 ch, 1 tr in fourth stitch of 8 ch, 8 ch, 
1 tr in next stitch, 3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr in each of tlie next twenty- 
four stitches, 3 ch, miss three stitches, tr in tr, 3 ch, miss tliree stitches, tr in 
tr, 3 ch ; repeat from star three times, and join with a dc in third stitch of 6 ch. 



Crochet Work. 295 

Tliirteenth Round. — Work G cli, miss three stitches, * 1 tr in tr of last 
round, 3 ch, miss three stitches, tr iu tr, 3 ch, miss three stitches, tr iu tr, 
3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr in each of the next twenty stitches, 3 ch, miss 
three stitches, tr in tr, 3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr in the fourth stitch of 8 
ch, 8 ch, tr in next tr, 3 ch, miss one stitch, tr in next tr, 3 ch, miss three 
stitches, 1 tr in each of the next twenty stitches, 3 ch, miss three stitches, tr 
in tr, 3 ch, miss three stitches, tr in tr, 3 ch ; repeat from star three times, 
and join as before. 

Fourteenth Round. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next three stitches, 
* 3 ch, tr in tr of last round, 3 ch, 1 tr in next, 3 ch, 1 tr in next, 3 ch, miss 
three stitches, 1 tr in each of the next sixteen stitches, 3 ch, tr in tr, 3 ch, 
tr in tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in the fourth stitch of 8 ch, 8 ch, 1 tr in next, 3 ch, 1 trin 
next, 3 ch, tr in tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next sixteen stitches, 3 ch, miss 
three stitches, tr in tr, 3 ch, tr in tr, 3 ch, tr in tr, 3 ch, miss three stitches, 
1 tr in each of the next four stitches ; repeat from star three times, and join 
as before. 

Fifteenth Round. — Work 6 ch, *miss four stitches, 1 tr in each of the 
next four stitches, 3 ch, tr in tr, 3 ch, tr in tr, 3 ch, tr in tr, 3 ch, miss four 
stitches, 1 tr in each of the next twelve stitches ; (3 ch, tr in tr) three times, 
3 ch, 1 tr in the fourth stitch of 8 ch, 8 ch, 1 tr in next, (3 ch, tr in tr) three 
times, 3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr in each of the next twelve stitches, 3 ch, 
miss three stitches, 1 tr in next, 3 ch, 1 tr in next, 3 ch, tr in tr, 3 ch, miss 
three stitches, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches, 3 ch ; repeat from star 
three times, and join as before. 

Sixteenth Round. — Work 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the first three stitches, *3 
ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches, 3 ch, 1 tr in 
next, 3 ch, 1 tr iu next, 3 ch, 1 tr in next, 3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr in 
each of the next eight stitches, (3 ch, tr in tr) four times, 3 ch, 1 tr in the 
fourth stitch of 8 ch, 3 ch, 1 tr in next, (3 ch, tr in tr) four times, 3 ch, miss 
three stitches, 1 tr in each of the next eight stitches, (3 ch, tr in tr) three 
times, 3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches, 3 ch, 
miss three stitches, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches ; repeat from star 
three times, and join as before. 

Seventeenth Round. — Work 6 ch, *miss three stitches, 1 tr in each of the 
next four stitches, 3 ch, miss three stitches; 1 tr in each of the next four 
stitches, (3 ch, tr in tr) three times, 3 ch,^uiss three stitches, 1 tr in each of 
next four stitches, (3 ch, tr in tr) five times, 3 ch, 1 tr in the fourth stitch of 
8 ch, 8 ch, 1 tr in the next, (3 ch, tr in tr) five times, 3 ch, miss three 
stitches, 1 tr in' each of the next four stitches, 3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr 
in next, 3 ch, 1 tr in next, 3 ch, 1 tr in next, (3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr 
in each of next four stitches) three times, 3 ch ; repeat from star three times, 
and join as before. 

Eighteenth Round.— ^York 6 ch, * 1 tr in first stitch, {3 ch, miss three 



296 



Ho:me Decorative Work. 



stitches, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches) twice, (3 ch, tr in tr) eight 
times, 3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr in each of the next eight stitches, 8 ch, 
1 tr in each of the next eight stitches, (3 ch, tr in tr) eight times, (3 ch, miss 
three stitches, 1 tr in^each of the next four stitches) twice, 3 ch, tr in tr, 3 
ch ; repeat from star three times, and join as before. 

Nineteenth Bound. — Work 6 ch, *tr in first tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next, (3 ch, 
miss three stitches, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches) twice, (3 ch, tr in 
tr) six times, 3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr in each of the next sixteen 
stitches, 8 ch, 1 tr in each of tlie next sixteen stitches, (3 ch, tr in tr) six 
times, (3 ch, miss three stitches, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches) twice, 
3 ch, tr in tr, 3 ch, tr in tr, 3 cli ; repeat from star three times, fasten 
thread securely and break off. 

When the squares are all finished, sew them together, finish the edge 
with wide crochetted lace, and line with red or blue silesia. 
LEAF COUNTERPANE. (Fig. 182.) 

Materials: No. 12 crochet cotton, and a medium-sized hoolc. 




Fig. 182. 
For the square : 

Make a chain of four stitches and join. 

First Bound. — Work 8 dc in the chain. 

Second Bound. — Work 2 dc in each stitch of last round. 



Crochet Work. 297 

Tliird Hound. — Work 1 dc in a stitch, 1 dc in next stitch, 3 ch, -work 
back 1 dc iu the previous dc, 8 tr in the 3 ch ; repeat from the beginning of 
the round seven times, draw UiTOugh the first dc with an so ; turn the work. 

Fourth Round. — Work 1 dc in the back horizontal loop of each stitch, 
except the one exactly behind the leaf of trebles ; in this work 3 tr. Each 
alternate round is worked in this way to form the rib, and to increase the 
number of stitches between each stripe of leaves. 

Fifth Round. — Turn the work to the right side, work 1 dc in a stitch, 
* 1 dc through the top of leaf of previous row, and through the next stitch to- 
gether, 1 dc in next stitch, 3 ch, work back 1 dc in third dc, (1 tr, six long 
trebles, 1 tr) in the 3 ch, 1 dc in each of the next two stitches ; repeat from 
star all around, and join as before. 

Eepeat the fourth and fifth rounds until there are six leaves in each 
row, then work four plai^i rounds, still turning the work, and working the 
increase at the corners in each alternate round, and catching the last leaf 
down in the second of the four plain rounds. This completes an octagon, 
around which must be crochetted a Ijorder to form the square. 

For the border of the square: 

First Bound. — Beginning at the corner, *work 1 dc in the back loop of 
each stitch of one of the eight sides, 15 ch, 1 dc iu the twelfth stitch of 15 
ch, 3 ch, 1 dc iu the center of the next side of the octagon, 1 dc in each stitch 
of 3 ch, 4 ch, 1 dc in the first stitch of 4 ch, 1 dc in the eleventh and tenth 
of 15 ch, 19 ch, 1 dc in the fifteenth stitch of 19 ch, 2 ch, 1 dc in the same. 
In the side of octagon, 1 dc in each of 2 ch, 4 ch, 1 dc in the first stitch of 4 
ch, 1 dc in. the fourteenth and thirteenth stitches, of 19 ch, 8 ch ; repeat 
from star three times, atd join as before. 

Second Bound.— Tnrnthe work, and work 1 dc in the back horizontal loop 
of each stitch, working 3 dc in the corner stitch, to keep the work smooth." 

Third Bound. — Turn, and work like second round. 

Fourth Bound. — Work 1 tr in the back loop of a stitch, 2 ch, miss two 
stitches, and repeat around, working 5 dc at the corners without missing a 
stitch. 

Fifth and Sixth Bounds. — Like the second round. 

For the border: 

Make a chain the length required to go around the quilt. 

First Bow. — Work 1 tr in each stitch of chain. 

Second Row. — Work 1 tr in the twenty-eighth stitch of chain, and com- 
mence at the center of the scallop with 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 dc in top of treble, 6 dc 
in 2 ch, miss one stitch of first row, 1 tr in the next, turn, work 2 dc in the 
back loop of each stitch, miss one stitch of first row, 1 tr in the next, 1 ch, 
miss one stitch, 1 tr in the next ; turn. 

Third Bow. — Work 1 dc in a stitch, 2 dc in the next ; repeat to end of 
scallop, miss one stitch of first row, 1 tr in the next ; turn. 



298 Home Decorative Work. 

Fourth Row. — Work 1 dc in each of the last four dc', *3 ch, work back 
1 dc in the second dc, 1 tr, 6 long trebles, 1 tr in the 3 ch, 1 dc in each of 
next four stitches, repeat from star three times, 1 dc in last stitch of 10 dc, 
miss one stitch of first row, 1 tr in next ; turn. 

Fifth iJow.— Work back 1 dc in the back loop of each stitch except the 
stitch behind the leaf of trebles, in each of these work 3 dc ; at the end of 
the row miss one stitch of firet row, 1 tr in the next ; turn. 

Repeat the fourth and fifth rows, increasing in each backward row, un- 
til there are seven leaves in each row. The leaves are caught down as in the 
square. After finishing the leaves, work two plain rows, continuing the in- 
crease at the corners, and catching the last leaf down in the last plain row. 

For the edge of the scallop: 

First Row. — Miss two stitches of the first row, counting from that last 
worked, 1 tr in the end stitch of last row of scallop, * 7 ch, miss four 
stitches, 1 tr in each of the next four stitches ; repeat from star till within 
four stitches of the end of the scallop, 7 ch, 1 tr in the end stitch, 2 ch, 
miss three stitches of first row, 1 dc in next, 2 ch ; turn. 

Second Row. — Miss one stitch of first row, 1 dc in the next, 5 ch, 1 dcin 
the center of 7 ch of last row, * 7 ch, miss four stitches, 1 dc in the next; 
repeat from star to the end of the row, 2 ch, 1 tr in the top of last dc worked 
in first row ; turn. 

Third Row. — Miss two stitches of first row, 1 tr in the next, * 5 ch, 1 
dc in the center of next 5 ch ; repeat from star to the end of the row, 3 ch, 
miss two stitches of first row, 1 dc in the next ; turn. 

Fourth Row. — * Work 2 ch, 1 tr in the center of 5 ch of last row, 4 ch, 
1 tr in the same stitch, 4 ch, 1 tr in the same stitch, 2 ch, 1 dc in center of 
next 5 ch ; repeat from star to the end of the row, 2 ch, 1 dc in the next 
stitch of first row. 

Break off the thread, and begin the next scallop forty-one stitches on 
the foundation from the stitch last worked of the border. In working the 
edge of each successive scallop pass the chain through the corresponding two 
upper picots. 

HOUSEKEEPER COUNTERPANE. 

This counterpane consists of squares joined by an insertion and finished 
with a wide border. A choice of two borders is given, either of them match- 
ing the square and insertion. 

Materials: crochet cotton No. 10, and a medium-sized steel hook. 

For the square: 

Each row is commenced at the same side, break off the cotton at the 
end of each row to keep the pattern on the right side. 

Make a chain of fifty-seven stitches. 

First Row. — Work 1 tr in each stitch. 

Second Ron: — Work 1 tr in each of five stitches, working into the back 



Crochet Work. 299 

liorizontal loop of each stitch, * 7 tr in the next tr of previous low, keep the 
top loop of each on the hook and draw through all together, thus forming a 
ball ; 1 tr in each of next three stitches, 1 ball in the next, 1 tr in each of 
next nine stitches; repeat from star twice, 1 ball in next stitch, 1 tr in each 
of next three stitches, 1 ball in the next, 1 tr in each of the next fives titches. 

Third Row. — :Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, *1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
next seven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of next five stitches ; repeat from star 
three times. At the end of the row there will ])e three instead of five 
stitches to work upon. 

Fourth Bow. — Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
ten stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of thirteen stitches, 1 Ijall, 1 tr in each of 
thirteen stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of ten stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
three stitches. 

Fifth Eoiv. — Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
forty-nine stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of three stitches. 

Sixth Row. — Work 1 tr in each of five stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
twenty-two stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of twenty-two stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr 
in each of five stitches. 

Seventh Roio. — Work 1 tr in each of seven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
seventeen stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of five stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
seventeen stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of seven stitches. 

Eighth Row. — Work 1 tr in each of five stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
seventeen stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of nine stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
seventeen stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of five stitches. 

Kinth Row. — Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
.seventeen stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of thirteen stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each 
of seventeen stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of three stitches. 

Tenth Rote. — Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, J ball, 1 tr in each of 
fifteen stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
nine stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of fif- 
teen stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of three stitches. 

Eleventh Roic. — Work 1 tr in each of five stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
eleven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of seven stitches, 1 ])all, 1 tr in each 
of five stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of seven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
eleven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of five stitches. 

Twelfth Row. — Work 1 tr in each of seven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
seven stitches, 1 Ijall, 1 tr in each of twelve stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
twelve stitches, 1 l)all, 1 tr in each of seven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
seven stitches. This finishes one-half of the square. 

Thirteenth How. — Like the eleventh row. 

Fourteenth Row. — Like the tenth row, and so continue, working l)ack 
to tlie fii-st row. 

For the edge of the square: 



300 Home Decorative Work. 

First Round. — Work 2 tr separated by 5 ch in a corner stitch of 
square, *2 cli, 1 tr in the top of the end stitch of next row of square, repeat 
from star twenty times, 2 cli, 2 tr separated by 5 ch in corner stitch of square, 
2 ch, miss two stitches, 1 tr in tlie next, repeat from the last star twenty 
times, 2 ch; repeat once from the beginning of the round. 

Second Bound. — Work 1 tr in each stitch of last round, except at the 
corners, work 5 tr. 

For the insertion : 

Make a chain of sixteen stitches, work backward and forward with 1 
tr in each stitch for eight rows. In the forward rows work into the back 
horizontal loop of each stitch; in the backward rows work into the front 
horizontal loop; this will make the right side even with the chain — like 
stripe across. Work another square on the upper side of the first scjuare, 
then another on the lower side of the second square, and so on, until the 
work is of the desired length. Then on the edge, work 1 dc in a point of a- 
square, 19 ch, 1 dc in the fourteenth stitch of the 19 ch, 13 ch, 1 dc in the 
eighth stitch of 19 ch, 2 ch, 1 dc in side of square, 7 ch, 1 dc in the third 
stitch of 7 ch, 1 dc in each of four stitches of 13 ch, 9 ch, 1 dc in the fifth 
stitch of 9 ch, 2 ch, 1 dc in the side of the next square, 7 ch, 1 dc in the 
second stitch of 7 ch, 1 dc in each of four stitches of 9 ch, 1 dc in each of 
four stitches of 13 ch, 5 ch, 1 dc in the first stitch of 5 ch, 1 dc in each of 
two stitches of 19 ch, 10 ch; repeat from the beginning of the row. 

The other side is worked in the same way. 

For the first border: 

This is worked in squares the same as the insertion. Work one square, 
then a square on each end of the first as in the insertion, then a square at 
the side of the lower square, then one above it, joining to the center one of 
the three squares with slip-stitches. After working the last stitch of each 
forward row the side is finished by another square. This will form a point 
containing six squares. 

Between each two squares at the top of the scallop is a five-pointed leaf 
formed thus: 

AVork 8 ch, 1 dc in a stitch at the side of a square, * 1 dc, 4 tr, 2 dc, 1 
sc in the 8 ch; repeat from star four times, joining the second leaf into the 
depth between the two squares, the third into the side of the next souare, 
and leaving the last two leaves unjoined. 

For the heading of border: 

First Kow. — Work 1 dc in a point of square, 7 ch, 1 dc in the point of 
first leaf, 7 ch, 1 dc in next leaf, 7 ch; repeat from the beginning of the row. 

Second Row. — Work 1 tr in each stitch of last row. 

Third Bow. — Work 1 tr in a stitch, 2 cli, miss two stitches, and repeat 
across. 

For the edge of 1)order: 



Crochet Work. 301 

Firsl Row. — Work 1 tr in the first stitch of square in the depth of the 
Vandyke, 2 ch, miss two stitches, and repeat around the points. 

In the square in which the chain stitches are not on the edge, work the 
trebles in the chain stripe of the square. At the bottom of the point "vyork 1 
tr, 5 ch, 1 tr in the same stitch. 

Second Row. — Work 3 long trebles in a stitch, keeping the top loop of 
each on the hook and draw through all together, * 7 ch, 1 dc in the third 
stitch of 7 ch, repeat from star twice, 2 ch, 3 long trebles worked as before, 
in the same stitch as the first three trebles, miss seven stitches; repeat from 
the beginning of the row. 

For the second border: 

This is worked like the square, breaking oflf the cotton at the end of 
each row, so as to keep the pattern on the right side. 

Make a chain the length required to go around the counterpane. 

First Roto. — Work 1 tr in each stitch all the way across. 

Second Bow. — Work 1 tr in a stitch, 2 ch, miss two stitches, and repeat 
across. 

Third, Fourth and Sixth Bows. — Like the fourth row. 

Fifth Bow. — Like the second row. 

Now begin the point, leaving the first two and last two stitches in each 
row un worked, so as to keep the point in proper shape. As this is the same 
throughout, it will not be mentioned again. Each point is finished before 
beginning another. 

First Bow. — Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, *1 liall (worked as in 
the square), 1 tr in each of thirteen stitches, repeat from star three times, 
1 ball, 1 tr in each of three stitches. 

Second Bow. — Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, *1 ball, 1 tr in each 
of seven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of three stitches; repeat from star three 
times. 

Third Bow. — Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, * 1 ball, 1 tr in each 
of three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of seven stitches; repeat from star 
twice, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of three 
stitches. 

Fourth Row. — Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, * 1 ball, 1 tr in each 
of eleven stitches; repeat from star twice, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of three 
stitches. 

Fifth Bow. — ^Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, * 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
seven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of three stitches, repeat from star once, 1 
ball, 1 tr in each of seven stitches, 1 l)all, 1 tr in each of three stitches. 

Sixth Bow. — Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of seven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of seven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of three stitches. 



302 Home Decorative Work. 

Seventh Row. — Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr iu each of 
eleven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of eleven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
three stitches. 

Eighth Row. — "Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
seven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
seven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of three stitches. 

Ninth Row. — Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of seven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of three stitches. 

Tenth Row. — Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
eleven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of three stitches. 

Eleventh Row. — Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each 
of seven stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of three stitches. 

Twelfth Row. — Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of 
three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each of three stitches. 

Thirteenth Row. — Work 1 tr in each of three stitches, 1 ball, 1 tr in each 
of three stitches. 

Fourteenth Row. — Work 1 tr in each of three stitches. 

This finishes one point. Sew the ends of the cotton neatly on the wrong 
side, stretching the stitches so as to leave an even line. Pass over seven 
stitches of the heading before beginning another point. When all the points 
are worked, finish the edge as follows: 

First Row. — Work 1 tr ill edge stitch of each row of point, 3 ch, 1 tr in 
next row ; repeat all the way across, working 1 tr in the extreme stitch of 
the point. 

Second Roiv. — *Work 1 sc in each of three stitches, 2 ch, miss four 
stitches, 3 tr each separated by 3 ch in the next, 2 ch, miss four stitches; 
repeat from star all the way across. 

TJiird Roiv. — * Work 1 dc in the middle stitch of 3 sc of last row, 6 ch, 
miss three stitches, 1 dc in the next, 7 ch, 1 dc in the center of 3 ch, 7 ch, 1 
dc in center of next 3 ch, 7 ch, 1 dc in first stitch of 2 ch, 6 ch; repeat from 
star all the way across. 

PANSY MAT. 

Materials: one-fourth ounce each of black and white single zephyr, 
one-half ounce of yellow zephyr, and one ounce of rich blue or purple 
zephyr. 

Beginning with the white, make a chain of six stitches; join. 

First Round. — Work 12 dc with 1 ch between in the ring. 

Second Round. — Work 2 dc in each 1 ch of first round. 

Third Round. — Work 1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc in each loop, and 1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc, 
between each dc of previous round. 

Fourth Round. — Work 1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc between each dc of previous 
round. 



Crochet Work. 303 

Fifth Jiound. — Work 3 dc in each loop, with 3 ch between each dc. 

Sixth Mound. — Join on the black, and work 2 dc in each loop of 1 ch. 

Seventh Hound. — ^Join on the yellow, and "work 2 dc in each loop with 1 
ch between. 

Eighth Hound. — Join on the purple, and repeat the sixth and seventh 
rounds. 

Then with a needle full of fine black thread catch down the fullness of 
the edge so as to give the effect of pansies. 

CALLA-LILY LAMP MAT. 

Materials: five shades of green single zephyr; one-half ounce of the 
darkest shade, one-fourth ounce of the next four shades ; one ounce of white, 
and one-fourth ounce of yellow. 

Make a chain of three stitches with the darkest shade of green, join 
and work 8 tr. 

Second Bound. — Work 2 tr between each tr of last round, making 16 tr. 

TJiird Hound. — Work 2 tr between each tr of last round. 

Fourth Bound. — Work 1 tr in each of first 3 tr of last round, 2 tr be- 
tween fourth and fifth tr's, 3 tr over next 3 tr, 2 tr between next two, and 
so continue, making eight groups of 2 tr. 

Fifth Round. — Work 4 tr between the groups of 2 tr, and widen by 
working 3 tr between the 2 tr of group. 

Sixth Bound. — Work 7 tr between the groups of 3 tr, and widen by 
working 3 tr in center of 3 tr group. 

Seventh Bound. — Work 12 tr between the groups of 3 tr, and widen by 
working 5 tr in center of*3 tr group. 

Eighth Round — Work 14 tr between the groups of 5 tr, and widen by 
working 5 tr in center of 3 tr group. 

Ninth Round. — Work 17 tr between the groups of 5 tr, 11 ch, turn and 
work 11 sc on the 11 ch; repeat seven times. 

Tenth Bound. — Join on next shade of green and work 17 tr in 17 tr of 
previous round; then on the 11 sc on the 11 ch, which forms the stem of the 
leaf work 11 tr, 3 ch, 1 tr on end, 3 ch, 11 tv on other side of stem; repeat 
seven times. 

Eleventh Bound. — Join on next shade of green, work 17 tr in 17 tr; 11 tr 
in 11 tr of leaf, 3 ch, 1 tr on end, 3 ch, 11 tr on other side; repeat seven 
times. 

Ticelfth Bound. — Join on next shade of green and work like eleventh 
round. 

Thirteenth Bound. — Join on last shade of green and work 5 ch, 1 tr ia 
each stitch. This finishes the mat. P'orm into shape by working 3 ch, 1 sc 
at base of leaf, 3 ch, join to other side of leaf bringing chain on top. This 
throws the fullness up between the leaves. There will be eight spaces ia 
which to sew the lilies. 



304 Home Decorative Work. 

The lilies are of the white zephyr. 

Make a chain of three stitches, 1 sc in first stitch, 5 tr in second stitch, 
1 sc in last stitch; turn. 

Second Row. — Work 1 sc in each stitch, 5 tr in center stitch, 1 sc in each 
stitch to the end. ^/ 

Eepeat first and second rows twice more. 

Seventh Row. — Work 1 tr in each stitch, 5 tr in center stitch, 1 tr in 
each stitch to the end. 

Eighth Row. — Work 1 tr in each of 7 tr, 5 tr in next stitch, 1 tr in 
next 7 tr, 5 tr in center stitch, 1 tr in each of 7 tr, 5 tr in eighth stitch from 
end, 1 tr in each of last 7 tr. 

Ninth Roto. — Work 1 tr in each of 8 tr, 3 tr in next stitch, 1 tr in each 
of 8 tr, 5 tr in center stitch, 1 tr in each of 8 tr, 3 tr in ninth stitch from 
end, 1 tr in each of 8 tr. 

The center of the lily is made of yellow zephyr, a piece three and one- 
half inches long, with a neatly rounded head and stiffened by running a 
coarse macreme twine through the center. Sew this to the side of the lily, 
turning the edge of the flower to the center and fastening at the bottom; 
draw the other side over and fasten to this, rolling the top slightly. Sew 
the lilies in the spaces between the leaves. 

MAT FOR VASE. 

Make a chain of eight stitches; turn. 

First Round. — Work 1 sc in each stitch of chain, then turn and work 1 
sc in each stitch of opposite side of chain. 

Second Round. — Work 2 tr in every stitch all around. 

Third Round. — Work 4 ch, pass over two stitches, 1 sc in next; repeat 
all around. 

Fourth Round. — Work 2 ch, (3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr) in every loop made by 4 
ch of previous round. 

Fifth Round. — Shell in shell all around, each shell separated by 2 ch. 

Sixth Round. — Shell in shell, * 2 ch, 1 tr in 2 ch of last round, 2 ch, 
shell in shell ; repeat from star. 

Seventh Round, — Shell in shell, 3 ch, 3 sc on each side of and one on the 
tr of previous row, 3 ch; repeat from beginning. 

Eighth Round. — Shell in shell, 3 ch, 5 sc over the 3 sc of preceding 
round, 3 ch; repeat from beginning. 

Ninth Round. — Shell in shell, 4 ch, 3 sc over 5 sc of previous round, 4 
ch ; repeat from beginning of round. 

Tenth Round— ^hoW. in shell, 5 ch, 1 long treble in center of 6 sc, 5 ch; 
repeat from beginning. 

Eleventh Round. — Work 5 ch, 1 sc in middle of 5 ch of previous round, 
5 ch, 1 sc in next 5 ch, 5 ch, 1 sc in 2 ch of shell; repeat from beginning. 

Twelfth Round. — Make 5 ch, 1 sc in first 5 ch of previous row, *4 ch, 8 



Crochet Work. 306 

tr in next 5 ch, 4 ch, 1 sc in next 5 ch, 5 ch, 1 sc in next loop; repeat from 
star. 

Thirteenth Hound. — "Work 8 tr in first 5 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in middle of 8 tr 
of previous round, 2 ch, 8 tr in next 5 ch, 1 sc in middle of next 5 ch; re- 
pent from beginning. 

Fourteenth Round. — Work 5 ch, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in middle of 8 tr of 
previous round, * 5 ch, 1 tr in 2 ch, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 2 ch, 5 ch, (1 tr, 2 ch, 
1 tr) in the middle of next 8 tr; repeat from star. 

Fifteenth Jioiind.— Work 5 ch, * 8 tr in 2 ch, 1 sc in middle of 5 ch, 8 tr 
in next 2 ch, 1 sc in middle of next 5 ch; repeat from star. 

Sixteenth Round. — Work 5 ch, 1 sc in middle of shell, 4 ch, 1 sc in same 
place, 5 ch, 1 sc between the shells; repeat from beginning of row. 

Seventeenth Roxmd. — Make 5 ch, 1 tr in small loop, 5 ch, 1 double treble 
between the two large loops; repeat from beginning. The last 5 ch must be 
fastened to the third stitch of 5 ch of previous round. 

Eighteenth Hound. — Make 5 ch, Isc in first 5 ch of previous round, 5ch, 
1 sc in next 5 ch; repeat all around. 

Nineteenth Round. — Work 6 ch, fasten with ?, slip-stitch in first 5 ch; 
*tum, work 5 sc in 6 ch just made, 6 ch, fasten with a slip-stitch in next 
6 ch; repeat from star. 

Twentieth Round. — Make (1 dc, 2 tr, 3 double trebles, 2 tr, 1 dc) in first 
hole; turn, work 3 ch, 1 sc in every stitch of scallop, turn, make 1 ch, 1 sc 
in middle stitch of first 3 ch, 3 ch, 1 sc in same stitch, * 1 ch, 1 sc in middle 
of next 3 ch, 3 ch, 1 sc in same stitch; repeat from star all around scallop, 
fasten last 1 ch in middle of next hole, 3 ch, 1 sc in next hole, 1 ch. Start a 
new scallop in next hole; repeat from beginning of row. 

PINCUSHION COVEK. 

This circle may be used for a tidy, also, making smaller circles around it. 

Make a chain of ten stitches, and join in a ring. 

First Round. — Work 20 dc around the circle. 

Second Round. — Work 1 dc, 17 ch, 1 slip-stitch in the dc to form a loop; 
work around this loop in dc, increasing once on each side and once at the top; 
worlc once more in dc's around the loop, increasing as before, and working 1 
slip-stitch at the bottom of the loop. Six picots, each composed of 4 ch, are 
worked on this second round of the loop, three on each side. 

Break off the cotton and make three similar loops around the ring. 

Tliird Round. — Fasten the cotton at the point of one of the four loops or 
leaves, and work 1 dc, * 5 ch, 1 picot, 5 ch. For the small pattern, joining 
the leaves together, work 3 ch, 1 picot placed downwards, 1 ch, 1 picot 
placed upward, 2 ch, 1 dc between the first two picots of one loop, 2 ch, 1 
picot, 2 ch, 1 dc between the first two picots of next loop, 2 ch, 1 picot placed 
upwards, 1 ch, 1 picot downward, 3 ch, 1 slip-stitch in the first of the 3 ch 
20 



306 



Home Decorative Work. 



at the beginning of the pattern, 5 ch, 1 picot, 5 ch, 1 dc in the point of the 
next loop ; repeat from star. 

Fourth Round. — Between each loop imd each pattern which divides 
them are 10 ch, with a picot in the center; work 1 dc in each of these chains, 
and one in the lower part of the picot ; also work 1 dc in the point of each 
loop, and of each triangular pattern, so as to form an entire circle of double 
crochet. 




Fia. 183. 

Fifth Round. — Work dc's all around the circle, increasing occasionally 
so the work will not curl. 

Sixth Bound. — *Work 5 dc, 1 ch, 1 picot, 1 ch, 1 picot, 3 ch, 1 picot, 1 
ch, 1 picot, 1 ch, fasten the loop of chain and picot with a slip-stitch; repeat 
from star. There must be sixteen loops around the circle, and 5 dc between 
each loop. Break off the thread at the end of the round. 

Seventh Round. — Fasten the thread to the point of one of the loops, and 



Crochet Work. 307 

work 1 slipstitch, * 7 ch, 1 slip-stitch iu the point of the following loop; re- 
peat from star. 

Eighth Jiound. — Same as fiftli. 

Ninth Round. — Work dc all around the circle, wrth a picot over every 
tenth stitch. 

Before beginning the tenth row, make the small circles of the outer bor- 
der separately, as follows: Work 4 ch for a first treble crochet, 7 ch, 1 tr in 
the first of the 4 ch forming the first tr; work 2 tr, 7 ch, 2 tr, 7 ch, and fasten 
the last to the top of the first tr; now work i» single crochet around the 
star, making one picot over every fourth stitch. Make sixteen of these small 
circles. 

Tenth Round. — Begin on the third stitch after the picot, and work 1 
slip-stitch, 7 ch, 1 slip-stitch iu one stitch of a circle, between two jiicots; 
turn, and over the 7 ch work 1 slip-stitch, 1 dc, 1 long dc, 1 tr, 1 large tr, 
miss three stitches under the leaf thus formed, and work 1 dc in the fourth; 
now begin a loop, formed of 1 ch, 1 picot, 1 ch, 1 picot, 3 ch, 1 picot, 1 ch, 1 
picot, 1 ch; under this loop, miss two stitches, one picot and two more 
stitches of preceding round, and then begin another leaf. Work alternately 
one of the pointed leaves and one loop with picots. There should be sixteen 
leaves in the round, and one of the smaller circles is fastened to the point of 
each leaf. Work a chain of six or seven stitches, and fosten it by a slip- 
stitch in the point of the nearest leaf. Work a second chain of the same 
length and join it on in the nearest space o^ the next circle. Repeat for 
each circle. 

AFGHAN. 

This is made in squares of Germantown wool, using as many colors as 
desired. It is sometimes called ' ' crazy crochet. ' ' The last row of each 
square or block should be black. It is prettier to be crochetted rather close, 
although the outer edge of each block may be crochetted iu open work if 
preferred; in that ease ribbons must be drawn through, and that would 
make the afghan very expensive. 

Make a chain of four stitches; join. 

First Round. — Make 3 ch, *3 tr in circle, 1 ch; repeat from star twice; 

2 tr, fasten with a slip-stitch in second stitch of chain. Break off the wool, 
and tie on another color. 

Second Round. — Make 3 ch, 3 tr under first 1 ch of previous round, *1 
ch, 3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr under next 1 ch; repeat from star twice, 1 ch, 2 tr under 
next 1 ch, fasten with a slip-stitch in second stitch of 3 ch, at the begin- 
ning of the row. Break off the wool and tie on another color. 

Third Round. — Make3ch, 3 tr under 1 ch of second row, *1 ch, 3 tr under 
next 1 ch, 1 ch, 3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr under next 1 ch; repeat from star twice, 1 ch, 

3 tr under next 1 ch; 1 ch, 2 tr under next, fiisten with a slip-stitch in second 
stitch of 3 ch at beginnign of the row. Break off wool and tie on the black. 



308 



Home Decorative AVork. 



Fourth Bound. — Same as third, except that there will be two groups of 
3 tr at each side separated by 1 ch. 

SOFA BLANKET. 

Make a chain of three stitches. (Fig. 184). 

First Row. — Work 2 do in each of the second and third stitches of chain. 

Second Bow. — Work 5 ch, 1 tr in the first loop, *1 ch, 1 tr in the next; 
repeat from star twice. 

ThirduBow. — Work 1 ch, 1 dc in every loop, working into the back part 
of the stitch. 

Fourth Row. — Like tliird. The chain at the beginning increases the 
width. There should now be ten stitches. 

Fifth Boiv.—Wovk 4 ch, 1 tr in the first loop of previous row, *1 ch, 




Fn;. 1.S4. 
miss one loop, 1 tr; repeat fiom star four times. 

Sixth Boiv. — Work 1 ch, then 1 dc In each stitch, across the row. 

Seventh Bote. — Like sixth. 

Then work the open row, always increasing at the beginning of each 
row until the stripe is wide enough. Then continue to increase at the side, 
and decrease from the point at the opposite angle. 

For the center stripe, make a chain of fourteen stitches. 

Work two rows of dc. 

Third Bow. — ^Work 1 d?, 1 long treble into the fourth loop of first row, 
1 dc into the same looj) ; o dc and 1 long treble the other way into the same 
stitch to form raised diamonds as in cut. 

Continue in this long treble to form the squares, but in returning across 
the row, in order to keep the right number of stitches, work through 2 dc at 
once at the points. 



Crochet Work. 



309 



Sew the stripes together, and tie the fringe on the ends. If desired an 
edge can be crochetted on the sides of the blanket. 

CHEMISE BAND. 

This band is made of rosettes, each being worked separately. (Fig. 185). 

Make a chain of seven stitches; join. 

First Round. — Make 3 ch, 19 tr in the ring. 

Second Bound. — Make 4 ch, 19 tr each separated by 1 ch. 

Third Round. — Make 4 ch, 2 long trebles worked off together in first 1 
ch, *5 ch, 3 long trebles worked off together in next 1 ch; repeat from star. 

Fourth Round. — Make 5 ch, 1 sc in 5 ch of previous round; repeat. 
This completes one rosette. The rosettes are to be joined when crochetting 
the fourth round. 

Any edge preferred may be added to top and bottom of yoke after the 
rosettes are fastened together. 

CROCHETTED BASKET. FIG, 186. 

This is a pretty receptacle for holding letters, scraps, etc. It is made of 

No. 8 thread, either white or 
black. First crochet the bot- 
tom, just like any round mat, 
of plain stitches, making it 
five inches in diameter. Then 
make a piece of trimming in 
the common macrame-tidy 
pattern, about four inches wide 
Fig. 185. and fifteen inches long, with 

any pretty scallop liked for a finish. Now whip the two ends together mak- 
ing it round ; then Avhip the bottom edge and the edge of the mat together. 
Now fit it over a tin pail or a flower pot. Take an old toothbrush, dip it in 
strong gum-arabic water, and go all over the basket, making it very stLfif. 
Let the basket dry and then varnish it. Or, if you prefer, you can gild 
it inside and out. After it is thoroughly dry again, run bright ribbon 
through the middle loops and tie in a butterfly bow. 

CROCHETTED GARTER. 

This garter is worked with purse silk and a steel crochet needle. 

Make a chain of 19 stitches. 

First to Fifth Rows. — Work 1 dc into each stitch of previous row, work- 
ing into the back horizontal loop of the stitch. 

Sixth J?ow.— Work 1 dc into each of the first five stitches, 9 ch, mis3 
nine, 1 dc into each of next five stitches. 

Repeat from first row until you have made the required length. 
For the edge : 

First How. — Work 1 tr in first stitch, 2 ch, miss two ; repeat all around. 
At the comer work 4 instead of 2 ch. 




810 Home Decorative Work. 

Second Jimo. — Work 1 dc in each of the first five stitches, 4 ch, 1 dc in 
the first stitch of 4 ch, 5 ch, 1 dc in the first stitch of the 5 ch, miss three 
stitches, 1 tr in the next, 4 ch, 1 dc in the first stitch of 4 ch, miss three 
stitches of previous row ; repeat. 

A ribbon is run througli the lioles in the center of tlie garter and tied in a 
bow in front. 

BELL-HARNESS FOE CHILDREN. 

This harness consists of five pieces ; the belt, a piece to go over each 
shoulder, the strap across the front, and the reins. The length of each part 
is of course regulated by the size of the child they are to fit. The reins 
should be about three yards in length, and fastened to the w^aistband, the 
other pieces being sewed together with needle and thread. 

With red wool make a chain of ten stitches, and work up and off in ordi- 
nary tricot, till of the length desired. To point the ends in the front of the 
shoulder-pieces, pass over the first stitch in each row without working up a 
loop until only two stitches remain. Finish the edges with black wool, work- 




FiG. 18t). 
ing 1 dc in each stitch of tricot. Sew spangles at intervals on the harness, 
and fasten small brass bells at the shoulders and on the reins. 

WOKK-BAG. 

This is a square bag of peacock-blue corded silk, covered at the lower 
part with large circles joined by small ones crochetted of fine linen thread. 
Six large circles with a small circle between each two are required to go 
across the bag, and as many rows can be used as liked, separating the rows 
with a strip of point braid, to which the large circles are fastened. 

For the large circle : 

Make a chain of ten stitches, and join. 

First Bound. — * Work 3 long trebles each separated by 1 di in a stitch 
of chain, 3 ch, miss one stitch; repeat from star four times, 3 ch, join to 
first stitch of round. 



Crochet Work. 311 

Second Round. — Work 48 do in the previous round. 

Third Round. — * Work 2 long trebles each separated by 1 ch in each of 
two successive stitches of last round, 1 ch, miss two stitches; repeat from star 
all around. 

Fourth Round. — *Work 1 tr in a stitch, 3 ch, 1 tr in the same stitch, 
miss three stitches; repeat from star all around. 

Fifth Round. — Take a piece of point braid long enough to go around the 
circle, draw the thread through a hole at one side, 1 long treble in a stitch of 
last round, keeping the cotton at the back of the braid, miss one hole, 1 long 
treble in the same stitch, miss the next hole, 1 long treble in the same stitch, 
1 sc at the back of the braid in each of the next two holes, miss four stitches 
of last round, and repeat from the beginning all the way around. 

Sixth Round. — On the other side of the braid work *1 long treble in 
each of three alternate holes, keeping the top loop of each on the hook, and 
draw through all together, 7 ch, miss one hole ; repeat from star all the way 
around. 

Seventh Rozind. — Work 1 dc in center of 7 ch, 2 ch, *2 long trebles in 
second stitch of next 7 ch, keep top loop of both on the hook and draw 
through together, 3 ch; repeat from star four times, 2 ch, rej»eat from the be- 
ginning of the round. 

Eighth Round. — * Work 1 dc in the dc's of last round, 1 ch, 1 tr in the 
center of next 3 ch, 5 ch, 1 tr in the same stitch; repeat from star three 
times, 1 ch, repeat from the beginning of the round. 

For the small circle : 

ISIake a chain of ten stitches and join. 

First Round. — * Work 3 long trebles each separated by 1 ch in a stitch 
of chain, 3 ch, miss one stitch; repeat from star four times, 3 ch, join to first 
stitch of round. 

Second Round. — Work 48 dc in the previous round. 

Third Round. — * Work 1 long treble in a stitch, 7 ch, 1 long treble in the 
same stitch, miss two stitches; repeat from star all the way around. 

Another pretty circle, and a small square for joining, which can be used 
instead of the other circles given, are made as follows : 

For the large circle: 

First Round. — Take telegraph cord and form it into a twelve-pointed 
star each point being from one loop to another of the braid. In the center 
of this star work into the loops with sc, and break otf the thread at the 
back of the work. 

Second Round. — Twist the cord and work 1 dc in the loop at the end of 
the point, 6 ch ; repeat all around. 

Third Round. — *Work 1 tr in a stitch, 1 ch, miss one stitch; repeat 
fix)m star all around. 

Fourth Round. — Work 1 dc in a stitch, 4 ch; take another piece of cord. 



812 Home Decorative Work. 

and twist it, doubling it back and forth at each loop of the braid, 1 dc in the 
braid, 4 ch, miss six stitches; repeat from the beginning of the round. 

Fifth Round. — Work 1 dc in the loop of cord, 10 ch; repeat all around. 

Sixth Round. — Like the third. 

Seventh Bound. — Using a little larger hook, * work 1 tr in a stitch, 
2 ch, miss two stitches, 1 tr in next, 2 ch, miss two stitches, 1 tr in the 
next, 5 ch, 1 dc in the second stitch of 5 ch, 4 ch, 1 dc in the first stitch 
of 5 ch, 4 ch, 1 dc in the first stitch of 5 ch ; 2 ch, 1 tr in the next tr of pre- 
vious round; repeat from star all the way around. 

For the small square : 

Make a star of four points with telegraph braid, fastening in the center 
with needle and thread. 

First Bound.— *^ovk. 3 dc in a loop, 5 ch, 1 long treble into the center 
of the star, 5 ch ; repeat from star three times 

Second Bound. — Work 3 tr separated by 2 ch in one stitch at the corner, 

1 ch, * 1 tr in the next stitch, 1 ch, miss one stitch; repeat from star six times, 
then repeat three times from the beginning of the round. 

HANGING BASKET FOR BALL OF WOOL. 

Use fine macrame cord. 

Make a chain of six stitches, and join. 

First Round. — Work 33 dc in the 6 ch, joining the firet and last dc with 
an sc. 

Second Bound. — Work 6 ch, miss two stitches, *1 tr in the next, 3 ch, 
miss two stitches ; repeat from star nine times more, and join to the third 
stitch of 6 ch with an sc. 

Third Bound. — Work 4 ch, tr under first 3 ch, * 4 ch, 3 tr under next 

2 ch; repeat from star nine times more, and join to top of 4 ch with an sc. 

Fourth Bound. — Work 2 tr, 5 ch, 2 tr in each 4 ch of previous round. 

Fifth Bound. — Like the third round, working long trebles instead of 
trebles. 

Sixth Bound. — Work 2 long trebles, 6 ch, 2 long trebles in each 5 ch of 
last round. 

Seventh Round.— Like the fifth round, working 7 ch instead of 6 ch. 

Eighth Round. — Like the sixth round, working 8 ch instead of 7 ch. 

Ninth Round. — Work 2 sc in 8 ch, 5 ch, 1 sc between the long trebles, 5 
ch; repeat around. 

Tenth Round. — Take a ring of strong wire the size of the last round of 
crochet, and work over it 1 sc in each stitch of last round. 

This makes half of the bag. Sew the two parts together for about an 
inch at the bottom ; a loop of ribbon and a bow are fastened at one side to 
hang the bag on the arm. Sew a piece of ribbon on each side of the top to 
tie the two sides together, and draw the end of the wool through the hole in 
the center of the side. 



Crochet Work. 



313 



HANDKERCHIEF WITH HAILSTONE LACE. 

The center of this handkerchief is of tine muslin, the lace being cro- 
chetted on the edge of the muslin, using sewing silk of any desired shade. 
The la<?e should be made fuller on the corners to prevent drawing. (Fig. 187). 

Work 1 so in edge of handkerchief, 1 dc (drawing a loop half an inch 
long), 1 sc, 1 dc (drawing another long loop), half an inch further along the 
edge of the handkerchief work 1 sc; repeat all the way around. At the 
comers leave only one-eighth of an inch between the sc's. 

In all other rows, after making the knot in the center, work 1 sc under 
the two threads before reaching the knot of each stitch of the first row, and 
1 sc under the two threads on the other side of the knot. 

PURSE— NO. 1. 




Fig. 187. 

Materials: two skeins of olive purse silk, steel crochet hook, and steel 
mounts. 

Commencing at the toji, make a chain of fifty-two stitches, and join. 

First Hound. — Work 1 tr in a stitch, 1 ch, miss one stitch; repeat all 
the way around. 

Second to Eighth Jioundti. — Work 1 dc in each stitch. 

Mnth to Thirteenth Mounds. — Work 1 dc in the back horizontal loop of 
eadi stilch 

Fourteenth Mound. — Pass the silk at the back of the work, and draw up 
two loops from the back to the front through the eleventh round with one 
stitch between each loop, 1 dc through two loops together, 1 dc through each 
of the next two loops of last round; repeat all the way around. 

Repeat from the ninth row seven times more. In the ninth, tenth and 



314 



Home Decorative Work. 



eleventh repeats of the pattern pass over every fifth stitch in each alternate 
round to shape the bottom of tlie purse. Draw the opening at the liottom 
together with a needle and silk, and sew on a steel ball. The ends of the 
rods are taken off, the little rods passed through the top row of stitches, and 
the ends then put on again. 




Fig. 188. 
PUESE— NO. 2. 

Materials: blue purse silk, and a fine crochet hook. 

Make a chain of five stitches, and join in a circle. 

First Round. — Work 2 dc in every stitch. 

Second Round. — * Work 1 ch (for widening), 2 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in 
each of next three stitches, 2 dc in next; repeat from star all the way 
around. 

Third and AIJ Odd Bounds. — Work the same as second row ; increasing ■ 



Crochet Work. 315 

the number of stitches l)etween the widenings as required. The raised fig- 
ures are worked ouly in the even rounds. 

Fourth Jtound. — * Work 1 eh, 2 do in first stitch, 4 dc in 4 dc, one raised 
spot made as follows: 3 tr in that stitch of last round but two, which is 
directly underneath the last 5 dc, 3 dc, 2 dc in the next; repeat once from 
star. 

Sixth Round. — * Work 1 ch, 2 dc in one stitch, 4 dc in 4 dc, one raised 
spot as before, 3 dc, one spot, 4 dc, 2 dc in next stitch; repeat once from star. 

Eighth Round — * Work 1 ch, 2 dc in first stitch, 4 dc; one spot, 7 dc, one 
spot, 4 dc, 2 dc in next stitch ; repeat once from star. 

Tenth Round. — *Work 1 ch, 2 dc in first stitch, 4 dc, one spot, 11 dc, 
one spot, 4 dc, 2 dc in next ; repeat once from star. 

Twelfth Round. — *Work 1 ch, 6 dc, one spot, 3 dc, one spot, 7 dc, one 
spot, 3 dc, one spot, 6 dc ; repeat once from star. 

Fourteenth Round. — *Work 1 ch, 5 dc, one spot, 7 dc, one spot, 3 dc, 
one spot, 7 dc, one spot, 5 dc ; repeat once from star. 

Sixteenth Round. — *Work 1 ch, 2 dc in first stitch, 3 dc, one spot, 11 dc, 
one spot, 10 dc, one spot, 3 dc, 2 dc in next stitch; repeat once from star. 

Eighteenth Round. — *Work 1 ch, 5 dc, one spot, t3 dc, one spot, 7 dc, 
one spot, repeat once from dagger, 3 dc, one spot, 5 dc ; repeat once from star. 

Twentieth Round. — *Work 1 ch, 4 dc, one spot, 7 dc, one spot, 3 dc, one 
spot, 7 dc, one spot, 3 dc, one spot, 7 dc, one spot, 4 dc; repeat once from 
star. 

Twenty-second Round. — * Work 1 ch, 2 dc in first stitch, 2 dc, one spot, 
11 dc, one spot, 9 dc, one spot, 11 dc, one spot, 2 dc, 2 dc in next stitch; re- 
peat once from star. 

Twenty-fourth Round. — * Work 8 dc, the first in the 1 ch, one spot, 7 dc, 
one spot, 13 dc, twice alternately, one spot, 7 dc; repeat once from star. 

Twenty-fifth and All Odd Rounds. — Work in dc all the way around. 

Twenty-sixth Round. — * Work 10 dc, one spot, 3 dc, one spot, 9 dc, one 
spot, 8 dc, one spot, 3 dc, one spot, 9 dc; repeat once from star. 

Twenty-eighth Round. — * Work 12 dc, one spot, 8 dc, one spot, 3 dc, one 
spot, 8 dc, one spot, 11 dc; repeat once from star. 

Thirtieth Round. — Like the twenty-sixth. 

Thirty-second Round. — Like the twenty-fourth. 

Thirty-fourth Round. — *Work 6 dc, one spot, 11 dc, one spot, 9 dc, one 
spot, 11 dc, one spot, 5 dc; repeat once from star. 

Repeat once the twenty-fourth to the thirtj'-fourth rounds inclusive, and 
once the twenty-fourth to the twenty-eighth rounds inclusive, in the last 
repetition of the twenty-sixth and twenty-eighth rounds working dc in place 
•of the spots of the center pattern. 

Fifty-third to Fifty-fifth Rounds. — Work in double crochet. 

Then work twenty-one rounds in dc. This completes one end of the 



316 Home Decorative Work. 

purse. The other end is worked in the same way, then the center part is 
crochetted on the two ends, as follows: 

First Rotind. — Work 2 ch, alternately miss one stitch, 1 tr, 1 ch, all the 
way around. 

Second Hound.— Work. 1 tr in the chain stitch before the next 1 tr, 1 ch, 
repeat. 

Then work sixteen rows of 1 tr, 1 ch, back and forth, turning the work 
each time, to form the opening, beginning each row with 3 ch. Then two 
closed rounds like the second round, and join to the end with, a round of 
double crochet. 

On the edge of each end work as follows: 1 tr in the chain, *3 tr, 1 ch; 
repeat from star until the point is reached, then 5 tr, and continue as before. 
Knot fringe in the holes formed by the last row. 

TOBACCO BAG IN CROCHET AND BEADS. 

Materials : ten skeins of fine purse silk, one hank of gold beads, and a 
medium-sized steel hook. 

This bag consists of four sections worked separately and sewed together. 
The beads must be threaded on the silk before commencing the work. 

Begin at the bottom with a chain of four stitches. 

First Row. — Work 2 dc in the first stitch, 1 dc in each of the next two 
stitches, 2 dc in last stitch. 

Second Roic. — Work 1 ch to turn, 1 dc in next stitch, raise a bead and 
put it at the back of the stitch, 1 dc in each of the next three stitches, raise 
another bead, 1 dc in next stitch, 2 dc in the end stitch. 

Repeat the first and second rows until there are thirteen beads in a row, 
raising a bead after every third stitch in each alternate row, so as to have 
the beads all on one side of the work. 

When the widest part is reached, continue the work as before, decreas- 
ing only at the end of about every third row by omitting to work the last 
stitch. Continue to work in this way until the work measures two inches 
across the last row. When the foiir sections are finished, sew them together 
on the wrong side with a needle and silk. 

For the fullness at the top. 

First Round. — Work 1 tr in a stitch, 2 ch, miss two stitches; repeat 
all around. 

Second to Seventh Rounds. — Work 1 tr in 2 ch of previous round, 2 ch; 
repeat all around. 

Eighth Round. — *Work 1 tr in 2 ch, miss two stitches, 1 tr in the next, 
5 ch; repeat from star all the way around. 

Eun a cord through the first row of holes of border, and put tassels on 
the five corners at the bottom of the bag. Line the bag with india-rubber 
or wash-leather. 



Crochet AYork. 317 

TOBACCO BAG NO. 2. 

Materials: eight skeins of cardinal red and four skeins of gold-colored 
pnrse silk, and a medium-sized steel hook. 

Commencing at the center of the bottom of the bag, with the red silk, 
make a chain of eight stitches and join in a ring. 

First Jxotind. — Work 24 tr in the 8 ch completing the round ))y joining 
the tirst and last tr with an sc. 

Second Bound. — "Work 3 ch, *1 tr in one stitch, 2 tr in next; repeat 
from star all the way around. 

Third Round. — Join on the gold silk, *work 1 tr into each of two 
stitches, 2 tr in next; repeat from star all the way around. 

Repeat the third round three times. 

Seventh Bound. — Join on the red, * work 1 tr into each of two .stitches, 
2 tr in the next, then with the gold, 1 tr in each of six stitches, repeat from 
star all the way around. In order to make the number of stitches right so 
that the vandyke patterns come evenly, it may be necessary to either miss a 
stitch or work twice in a stitch at the end of the round. 

Eighth Bound.— * Join on the red, work 1 tr in each of the four red 
stitches, 2 tr in the first gold stitch; with the gold, 1 tr in each of next four 
gold stitches; with the red, 2 tr in next gold stitch; repeat from star all the 
way around. 

Ninth Bound. — * Join on the red, 1 tr in each stitch of red, 1 tr in gold 
stitch; with the gold, 1 tr in each of next two gold stitches; with the red, 

1 tr in next gold stitch; repeat from star all the way around. 

Tenth and Eleventh Bounds. — Work entirely with red silk, 1 tr in each 
stitch. There should now be 154 stitches. 

Twelfth Bound. — This begins the Greek key pattern. *With the red, 
work 2 tr in a stitch, 1 tr in each of next two stitches, 2 tr in next; with the 
gold, 1 tr in each of next ten stitches; repeat from star all the way around. 

Thirteenth Bound. — * With the red, 1 tr in each red stitch of last round; 
with the gold, 1 tr in each of next two gold stitches; with the red, 1 tr in 
each of next six gold stitches; with the gold, 1 tr in each of next two gold 
stitches; repeat from star all the way around. 

Fourteenth Bound. — * With the red, 1 tr in each of five red stitches, 

2 tr in next; with the gold, 1 tr in each of two gold stitches; with the red, 
1 tr in each of next four stitches; with the gold, 1 tr in each of next seven 
stitches; repeat from star all the way around. 

Fifteenth Bound. — * With the red, 1 tr in each of seven stitches; with 
the gold, 1 tr in each of next two stitches; with the red, 1 tr in each of next 
four stitches; with the gold, 1 tr in each of next two stitches; with the red, 
1 tr in each of next five stitches; repeat from star all the way around. 

Sixteenth Bound. — * With the gold, 1 tr in each of seven red stitches, 1 
tr in each of two gold stitehesj with the red, 1 tr in each of the next red 



318 Home Decoeative Work. 

stitches; with the gold, 1 tr in each of next seven stitches; repeat from star 
all the way around. 

With the red, work about two inches, 1 tr in each stitch without in- 
crease or decrease. Then work another Greek key pattern as described in 
the twelfth to the sixteenth rounds, omitting the increase; then two rounds 
plain. 

For the lull at the top: 

First Bound. — Work 1 tr in a stitch, 2 ch, miss two stitches; repeat 
around. 

Second Round. — Work 1 dc in each stitch of last round. 

Third Bound. — Work 1 tr in each of two stitches, 2 ch, miss two 
stitches; repeat around. 

Fourth Bound. — Like second round. 

Eepeat the third and fourth rounds twice more. 

With red silk finish the diamond at the bottom of the bag by working 
lines of chain-stitches from the depth between the points to the center of 
the first row, either with a needle or a crochet hook. 

Make a crochet chain and run it through the first row of holes, finishing 
the ends with small silk pompous. Line the bag with India rubber or wash 
leather. 



TdiTi T^. 



NETTING. 




j^o^e.— This article has been prepared for us by the publishers of *' Florence 
Home Needle-work," which is a guarantee of its accuracy. 

' ETTING is of great antiquity, and its origin is difficult to deter- 
mine. It was doubtless first made use of by fishermen, to supply 
the wants of life, and as civilization advanced, found favor for orna- 
mental purposes and embroidery. 

Plain Netting, and the Instruments Used. (Figs. 1, 2 and 3.) 

Plain netting consists of loops, secured and rendered independent of one 
another by knots. For forming and tightening these loops and knots, the 
following implements are necessary. In the first place, a netting needle, 



Fig. 1. Netting Needle of Steel. 
which is best made of steel, split and flattened at both ends, with a hole 
bored through it below the fork at one end, in which the thread is secured 
before it is wound on lengtliAvise between the forks (see Fig. 1). These 
needles are numbered like knitting needles. There are netting needles like- 



FiG. 2. Netting Needle of Ivory. 
wise of bone, ivory, wood and shell, for coarser silk. These are without 
hole (see Fig. 2). The silk must be wound oh very tightly, and not too 
much of it at a time, that the needle may slip easily through the loops. 



Fig. 3. Mesh or Spool of Ivory, 
The mesh or spool (Fig. 3), whether of ivory, bone, steel or wood, should be 
smooth and round, and of the same thickness throughout, so that the loops 
made upon it may be all of one size and easily slipped off. For long loops 
a flat mesh is best, and, in all cases, the needle and mesh should be selected 
with a view both to the material employed and the size of loop required. 

Copyright 1889 by Nonotuck Silk Co. 

319 



320 



Home Decorative Work. 



Materials Suitable for Netting. 

Silk of various kinds or sizes may be used for this work, hut nothing 
more satisfactory in every respect has come to our notice than Florence 
knittino; silk (Fig. B), which, owing to its " soft finish, " readily adapts 
itself to the work, and produces the most perfect knot. With this may 1)e 
used to advantage Florence filoselle (Fig. F). Corticelli rope silk (Fig. D) 
and Corticelli wash embroidery silk, size EE (Fig. E), and Corticelli knit- 
ting silk (Fig. A), are also suitable for netting. The foundation netting 




Fig. 4. First Position ok thk Hands. 
may be made of linen, and darned with silk Avith fine effect. Engravings 
of these materials, with their corresponding letter designations, will be 
found in the back of the book. 

Netting Stitches. 

The loops are always the same, — four-cornered, whether they be square 
or oblong; and connected together, though secured and rendered indepen- 
dent of one another by knots. By different ways of passing the thread over 
the mesh and connecting the loops together, the following stitches are pro- 



Netting. 



321 



dnced: first, plain loop; second, double loop; third, oblong loop; fourth, 
honeycomb loop; fifth, twisted loop. 

PLAIX LOOP. FIRST POSITION OF THE HANDS. (Fig. 4.) 
Every kind of netting requires a foundation loop, from cne-fourth to 
one-half an inch long, made from No. 300 or No . 500 Florence knitting silk, 
which is pinned to the cushion. Fasten the working thread to the founda- 
tion loop; then take the mesh in the left hand, holding it between the 
thumb and fore-finger, the other fingers extended beneath. Take the needle 




Fia. 5. Second PosmoN of the Hands. 
filled with thread in the right hand, and pass the thread downwards over 
the mesh, and over the second, third and fourth fingers, inside; carry it up 
behind the third finger and lay it to the left under the thumb, by which it 
has to be held fast. 

SECOND AND TRIED POSITIONS OF THE HANDS. (FigS. 5 and 6.) 
Carry the thread down behind the second, third, fourth and fifth fingers, 
and put the needle through the loop on the fingers and behind the mesh, 
through the foundation loop, thus forming a second loop, which you hold 
back with the little finger of the left hand. Then gradually drawing up the 
thread that runs from the mesh, let go the loop held down by the thumb; 
then by degrees let go also the loop which lies over the second, third and 
21 



322 



Home Decorative Work. 



fourth fingers, still holding the last loop fast with the little finger; finally 
you release this too, and pull up the knot thus formed close to the mesh 
with the right hand. This completes the stitch. The next stitches are 
made in the same way, whether they are to serve for casting on, or for a 
netted foundation. The mesh is drawn out at the end of each row, the work 
turned and the mesh held heneath the last row, in readiness for the next, iu 
making which you pass your needle through each loop. These diamond* 
shaped loops form a diagonal net. 




Fig. 6. Third Position of the Hands, 
double loop. 
To make a double loop, put the thread two or three times around the 
mesh. 

OBLONG LOOP. 

For oblong loops, the knots must be made a little distance from the 
mesh. 

HONEYCOMB LOOP. 
Make an oblong loop, pass the thread around the fingers, but not over 
the mesh, as in plain netting; put the needle, not into the loop of the pre- 
vious row, but between the loops just made. The knot, which is made in 
the same way as in plain netting, must be drawn close up to the mesh; the 



Netting. 



323 






two threads of the loop should lie side by side on the mesh. The loops in 
honeycomb netting are six-sided. 

TWISTED LOOPS. 
Pass the thread, as in plain netting, over the mesh and fingers; but, be- 
fore letting the thread which is under the thumb go, pass the needle from 
right to left under the loop you are making and the thread, and only then 
draw up the knot„ 

Although in netting the loops can 
not be formed in as many different 
ways as in knitting or crochet, they 
admit of a certain varietj'^, as the follow- 
ing explanations will show. 
PATTERNS PRODUCED IN NETTING BY 
USING MESHES OF DIFFERENT 
WIDTHS. 

Plain netting can be varied by 
making one row of loops over a large 
mesh and one over a small one, or sev- 
eral rows over the large and several 
over the small, alternately, changing 
the meshes at regular intervals. 

PATTERNS PRODUCED IN NETTING BY 
INCREASING AND DECREASING. 

(Fig. 7.) Patterns of this kind are 
made by netting the meshes together in regular sequence, and taking up as 
many meshes as you have netted together, or vice versa. You may increase 



'V\/\,Ay\y) 



gI^lBg>«i[iri 



WW VI 

/ll\„/!IV/|Vi\4\J 

\A AA/^./A/ \,AA/ \y \ 
Av\AyVyVVVvV 



Fig. 7. Patterns Produced in 

Netting by Increasing and 

Decreasing. 



/yyyVV 




Fig. 8. Loose Loops in Fig. 9. Loose Loops in Clusters. 

Clusters. (Detail of Fig. 8.) 

and decrease in the same rows, or at an interval of .so many rows. 

Two sizes of thread should be used for this pattern. To show the rela- 



824 



Home Decorative Work. 



tiou they should bear to one another, we instance No. 300 Florence knitting 
silk and Florence tiloselle (see Figs. B. and F). Begin by three rows of 
plain netting with the finer thread over the small mesh, followed by one 
row of the coarser thread over the large mesh; then, with the coarse thread 
over the large mesh, one row, in which you net every two loops together, 
and one row, with two loops in every one, so that the number of loops re- 
mains the same. These are followed by three rows of plain netting with the 
fine thread on the small mesh. 

LOOSE LOOPS IN CLUSTERS. (Figs. 8 and 9.) 
These clusters of loose loops are made in the following manner: 
First Eoio. — One loop, the knot of which must be a little distance from 

the mesh; put the 
thread over the mesh 
and the needle through 
the loop where the 
knot is; repeat this 
three or four times, 
making the loops all 
of the same length. 
Then unite all the 
loops with one knot, 
carrying the needle 
from right to left, 
around the loops, in- 
stead of putting it 
through the loop of 
the previous row. 

/Second Bow. — Make 
one loop over each 
loop of the first row, 
leaving out the loops 
that form the cluster. 
As may be seen from the drawing, many different patterns can be 
worked upon the netting in this manner. 

NETTING COMPOSED OF PLAIN, DOUBLE AND OBLONG LOOPS. (Fig. 10.) 

Netting composed of large and sr.iall loops is the kind generally used as 
a ground-work for embroidery. The loops of it are straight; diamond net- 
ting will serve the same purpose, but, as it is less commonly used, we have 
given the preference to the straight. 

The whole first row consists of a double and a plain loop alternately; 
the second, entirely of oblong loops, which are made by passing the thread 
only once over the mesh, and so that in netting on the double loop, the knot 




Fig. 10. Netting Composed of Plain, Double 
AND Oblong Loops 



Netting. 



825 



is brought close to the needle, whereas, in netting the plain loop, it hangs 
free; so that, as shown in Fig. 10, all the loops of the second row are of the 
same length. In the third row, which is like the first, the plain loops 
should come between the small holes and the double ones between the 
larger ones. 

CIRCULAR NETTING COMPOSED OF LONG AND SHORT LOOPS. (Fig. 11.) 
Make thirty or thirty-one loops over a large mesh with a coarse material 

such as Florence filoselle 
(Fig. F), then draw up the 
thread on which the loops 
are strung, as tightly as pos- 
sible, so as to foiTU quite a 
small ring for the center, 
and fasten ofl' 

For the next row, also 
made in coarse thread, 
fasten the thread on to a 
long loo]! and make one 
loop into each loop of the 
first row, over a small mesh. 
Use the same mesh for all 
the subsequent rows, which 
should be worked in a finer 
thread, say, Florence kuit- 
FiG. 11 Circular Netting Composed of ting silk, No. 300 (Fig. B.) 
Long and Short Loops. If you want to avoid fast- 

ening on the thread afresh for each row, 
make a loop over the thumb. 

HIAKING LOOPS OVER THE THUMB. 

Put the thread, as for a plain loop, 
over the mesh and fingers, and put the 
needle through the loop, likewise as for 
a plain loop, but before tighteniug the 
knot, draw the mesh out of the loop 
just made, and make it exactly a.s long 
as the loop above. 

CIRCULAR NETTING, FORMED I$Y IN- 
CREASES. (Fig. 12.) 
Make ten loops on the foundation 
loop, close the ring, then go on, making 
a row with one knot in the first loop 
and tM'o in the second, until the net attains the right circumference j in the 





Fig 



1 2 Circular Netting, 
roKMED BY Increases. 



326 



Home Decorative Work. 



subsequent rows, increase by one loop; that is to say, make two knots in 
each of the previous increases, 

SQUARES OF NETTING. (FigS. 13 and 14.) 

To make sc^uares of netting with straight loops, begin ])y making two 





Fig. 13. Square of Nktting. Fig. 14. Square of Netting. 

(Begun.) (Completed.) 

loops or three knots. Make two knots in each of the following rows, so that 
each row is increased 1 y one loop. Continue to increase until you have one 
looj) more than the square should number. Follow this row with the extra 

stitch, make a row without 
either increase or intake,and 
begin the intakes in the next 
row, joining the two last 
loops of each row together 
by a knot. Finish the two 
last loops over the thumb. 

SQUARE OF netting BE- 
CiUN FROM THE MIDDLE. 

(Figs. 15 and 16.) 

Instead of beginning a 

S(iuare from the corner, in 

the manner just described, 

it may be begun from the 

middle. 

Cast on the required number of loops, make an intake in each row, by 

omitting to take up the last loop of a row. In coming l)ack, your first knot 

will t*lius be made over the last loop but one of the previous row. (Fig. 15.) 

To complete the square, fasten the thread on again to the end of the thread 




Fig. 15. Square of Netting Begun from 
THE Middle. (Begun.) 



Netting. 



327 



of the last row, then make one similar to it, and repeat the same rows you 
made at the beginning. (See Fig. 16.) 

STRIPS OF STRAIGHT NETTING. (FigS. 17 and 18.) 
These can be begun and finished in two ways. The simplest way, more 
especially when they are to be embroidered 
afterwards is to cast on the necessary num- 
ber of loops, to decrease on one side by 
dropping a loop (Fig. 16), or by joining 
two loops together with a knot (Fig. 17), 
and to increase on the other side by making 
two knots over one loop. 

Great care must be taken not to change 
the order of the intakes and increases, as 
any mistakes of the kind would break the 
line of squares, and interfere with the sub- 
sequent embroidery, unless there happened 

Fig. 16. Square of Netting to be more loops in the strip than stitches 
Begun FROM THE Middle. . ^, ^^ • i_- i xi. 

(Completed.) ni the pattern, m which case the super- 

fluous loops might be cut away when the embroidery is finished. 

STRAIGHT NETTING WITH A SCALLOPED EDGE. (Fig. 19.) 

The second way of making strips of straight netting is to begin by a 
•equare. After making two loops on the foundation loop, make rows with in« 



n 1 1 n f 1/ 


1 ) 1 < i } ! M 


^— —*■■—. UM.^a— <=i«f *— ~4iS=s-5l«^.«;* 

1 H 1 M 1 




f 1 » « L.J i 1 


-O 


^-^rrrrrrr 


:b 


fC} U lFLJ 

1 -. 




Fig. 17. Strip of Straight Netting Edged with Empty Loops. 
■creases until you have the required number of loops. Then make an in- 
crease in every row to the left, and leave the last loop empty in every row 
to the right. Continuing the increases on the left, you net four rows, with- 
out increasing or decreasing on the right, while in the next four you agam 
leave the outside loop empty. 

SQUARE FRAME OF NETTING. (Fig. 20.) 
Handkerchief, counterpane and chair-back borders can be netted in one 
piece, leaving an empty square in the centre. After casting on the loops as 
for an ordinary square of netting (letter A), increase them to double the 
number required for the border. Thus, for example, if the border is to con- 
sist of three squares, you make six loops, then leave three loops empty on 



828 



Home Decorative "Work. 



the left and continue to work to the right and decrease to the left, up to the 
dotted line from C to C. After this you begin to decrease on the right and 
increase on the left, up to the dotted line from E to E. Leaving the ri'-lit 
side of the net, you now fasten on the thread at C, where the three empty 



.L_l I. 1 1 J I I 



1X1 i 1 7 



ri I rrrrrrry 



I J, 1. 1 I I X 



\ i \ { 



m 



Fig. 18. Strip of Straight Netting. 
loops are, and here you make your increase on the right side and your in- 
takes on the left, till you come to the corner, from whence you decrease oa 




Fig. 19. Straight Netting with Scalloped Edge. 
the right and increase on the left, up to the letter G. Stop on the left side 
and then work from left to right, passing oAer the row that is marked E. 
The fourth corner (letter B) is worked like any other piece of straight net- 
ting, with an intake in each row, until there are only two loops left. 
DIAGONAL NETTING WITH CROSSED LOOPS. (Figs. 21 and 2'2.) 
To work this simple and effective pattern, begin by making a strip of 



Netting. 



329 



plain netting, fourteen loops in width, for the middle. When it is long 

enough for your purjxise, 
take up all the loops on one 
side on a strong thread; fasten 
the work to the cushion again, 
and work three rows along 
the other edge in the follow- 
ing manner: 

First Roxv. — Long loops, 
made by the thread being 
passed thrice over the mesh. 

Second Bow. — Here, three 
loops are so made as to cross 
each other; that is, you begin 
by putting your netting 
needle at first into the third 
loop, counting from left to 
right, then into the first, and 
lastly into the middle one of 




Fig. 20. Square Frame. 




Fig. 21. Diagonal Netting with Crossed Loops. 



330 



Home Decorative "Work. 



th^e^Jhree, so that the right loop leans to the left and the left one to the 

Third Row.-One plain loop in each of the loops of the previous row 
You now draw out the thread, run in on the other side, and run LTn 




Fig. 22. Working Detail of Fig 21 
through the loops last made, in order to make three rows again, as above de- 
scribed, on the bottom side. '»'JONette 
When this is done you begin the scallops, composed of twelve krots or 
eleven loops, or fourteen loops and fifteen knots; net five rows, leaving the 
outside loops empty (Fig. 22); stop on the left and proceed with six knL or 



Netting. 



331 



five plain loops, two or three long loops with three overs, three plain loops; 
turn the work; three plain loops, three knots; turn the work; two loops 
with three overs, three knots; turn the work; two plain loops, two knots; 
turn the work; cross two or three loops, according to the number you crossed 
in the middle, then carry the working thread to the middle of the long loops, 
and connect them by two knots; pass the needle under the knot of the last 
long loop, then, on the right side, net three plain loops; turn the work; 
three plain loops, three knots; turn the work; two plain loops, two knots; 
turn the work, and continue the rows of plain netting until you have only 
two loops left. 






' y y v/ V V y >r^'^'^/ V VA^Ayx A 

/\_a/\A/\ a a /\ a a X A A X X X X Yk y^ 

KXXXXX^XX'XXXXXX) 
XX'X>(XXXX)0<)(XX}OCXXXX 




Fig. 23. Netted Fringe. 

To reach the next scallop, pass the netting needle through each hole of 
the net and round each thread. 

Finish off the scallops Avith a roAV of plain netting made with a coarser 
thread than the foundation. 

These netted edgings may l)e made of linen with jiatterns afterwards 
•embroidered upon them in Corticelli Avash silk, which shows well upon it. 
The thread for this purpose may be used double, and the pattern worked in 
darning stitches made over eight squares of the netting; the eighth knot is 
then encircled by a loop, and the thread carried down over eight squares, 
and a loop again made around the eighth knot. After making four rows of 



332 Home Decorative Work. 

stitches on the netting, cut three bars between the rows of white stitches. 
The row of openwork i^roduced in this way has a very good effect, and 
greatly improves the look of the lace. 

NETTED FRINGE. (Fig. 23.) 

Plain netting, pretty as it is, looks rather simple unless ornamented 
with embroidery of some kind. The double netting, illustrated in Fig. 23, 
will prove a welcome novelty. The footing is worked in crochet with Cor- 
ticelli rope silk (Fig. D), secured on both sides by chain stitches. 

Into every fourth of these chain stitches, net one loop, missing the three 
between. At the end of the row, turn the work and make the knot in the 




Fig. 24. Wire Fkame for Embroidered Netting. 
middle of the three chain stitches, so that the two loops of netting cross each 
other. 

In the second, or rather the third row, the knots are again made first 
into the front loops, into those of the first row; that is, in the fourth row, 
into those of the second row. 

When the strip is .sufficiently wide, finish it ofl' with tassels. 

Instead of tying up the lengths of rope silk with a thread twisted round 
them and fastened off with a stitch, make two looped knots round them 
with an end of the silk, where the neck of the tassel should come. 



Netting. 333 

Embroidered Netting. 

Embroidered netting, also known as Filet Guipure, Cluuy Guipure, and 
Eicbelieu Guipure, is a netted ground, with patterns of one kind or another 
worked upon it in a variety of stitches 

IMPLEMENTS KEQUIEED FOR EMBROIDERED NETTING. 

Besides scissors, needles and thread, a light steel frame is all that is re- 
quired, and this renders embroidered netting very popular. The needles 
should be 1 >ng and blunt; those called saddlers' needles are the best. 

WIRE FRAME FOR EMBROIDERED NETTING. (Fig. 24.) 

The frame on which the net is stretched should be made of strong iron 



Fig. 25. Mounting the Netting on the Frame. 
wire that will not bend in the using. In shape, it may be square or oblong, 
according to whether squares or edgings are to be made upon it, but the 
sides must be straight, so that the net can be evenly stretched. 

This wire frame must be covered, first with wadding or tow, as shown 
in Fig. 24, and then with tape, which must be wound tight Ij' round it, and 
more particularly at the corners, very closely, so that it may be quite firm 
and not twist about when the netting is sewed in. The ends of the tape 
should be secured by two or three stitches. 

MOUNTING THE NETTING ON THE FRAME. (Fig. 25.) 

"VNlien the netting is e.xactly the size of the inside of the frame, it need 
only be secured to it with overcasting stitches, set very closely at the corners. 



334 



Home Decorative Work. 



MOUNTING THE NETTING ON THE FRAME WITH AN AUXILIARY TAPE. 

(Fig. 2G.) 
"When the netting is smaller, the space between it and the frame must 




Fig. 26. Mounting the Netting on the Frame with an Auxiliart Tape: 
be filled up with strong, very evenly woven tape, sewed on all round the 

netting. 

The tape must be very tightly held iu 
the sewing, so that it even forms little 
gathers all round; this will help you ta 
stretch the netting in mounting it with- 
out injuring it, and is especially neces- 
sary when the netting is not quite- 
evenly made. Fig. 26 shows how the 
tape is sewed on, the fold that has to be 
made at the corners, and the way to fix 
the netting into the frame. 

Long strips or large pieces of work 
can be mounted on wax-cloth; but we 
cannot recommend shortening the pre- 
paratory work in this manner, as the 




Fig. 27. 



Ordinary Darning 
Stitch. 
sc^uares of netting are never so regular as when they are made in a frame. 

MATERIALS FOR EMBROIDERED NETTING. 

Corticelli wash embroidery silk, size EE (Fig. E), Corticelli rope silk, 
size G (Fig. D), and Florence filoselle (Fig. F), are suitable for this work. 



Netting. 



335 



The Stitches Used for Embroidered Netting. 
These are very numerous, and admit of many different combinations. 

ORDINARY DARNING STITCH. (Fig. 27.) 

The simplest stitch of all for covering a netted ground is the ordinary 
darning stitch; drawing the thread, that is to say, in and out of the number 




Fig. 



28. Linen Stitch. 
Stitches.) 



(First 



Fig 29. 



(Second 



Linen Stitch. 
Stitches.) 

of squares prescribed by the pattern, and backwards and forwards as many- 
times as is necessary to fill them up. 

The number of stitches depends, to a 
certain extent, on the material em- 
ployed; with Corticelli wash silk, size. 
EE (Fig. E), for example, you will have 
to take more stitches than with one o^' 
the coarser numbers, like Corticelli rope 
silk (Fig. D) or Florence filoselle (Fig. 
F). 

This is the stitch generally used for 
reproducing a cross-stitch pattern on a 
netted ground, and is especially recom- 
mended for covering large surfaces, cur- 
tains, counterpanes and so forth, as it is 
quickl}^ done and shows up the pattern 
well. 
(Figs. 28 and 29.) 




Fig. 30. Linen Stitch. (Forma- 
tion OF the Corners.) 



LINEN STITCH. 

This is the stitch most often met with in the old embroideries, it being 
the one the solid parts of the leaves and flowers and the borders are gener- 
ally worked in. 



336 



Home Dixorative Work. 




Fig. 31. Loop Stitch. (First 

AND Second Courses of 

THE Thread.) 



Fasten the thread to a knot of the netting and carry it twice to and fro, 

over and under the threads of the netting, so that at the end of the row 

every second thread passes under and over the thread of the netting as it is 

carried upwards again. 

This constitutes the first layer of threads; the second completes the 

linen stitch and is made in the same 
way, only across the first alternately 
taking up and missing a thread, as is 
done in darning. The thread may also 
be carried both waj's over the threads 
of the squares. In this case you must 
draw an uneven number of threads 
through the squares, otherwise the 
crossing of the threads will be irregular 
in the last square. 

LIKEX STITCH. FORMATION OF COB- 
NERS. (Fig. 30.) 
"When linen stitch is used for the bor- 
der of a pattern, and a corner has to be 
formed, you begin by carrying the 
threads over a given number of squares. 

This first layer, especially in the case of long strips, must be kept very slack; 

and to ensure the threads being all of the same length, lay a fine mesh or a 

thick knitting needle at one end and 

stretch the threads over it. After 

carrying the second layer across a 

few squares, take away the mesh or 

needle. The threads of the first 

layer become gradually shorter, 

from the passage of the cross threads 

in and out between them, and end 

by being just long enough to prevent 

the last embroidered squares from 

being too tightly stretched. 

On reaching the corner, you cross 

the threads of the next row, as shown 

in Fig. 30. The first threads of the 

second side form the foundation of the corner square; from the second corner 

square you pass to the third; from the third to the fourth, carrying your 

thread alternately over and under the threads that were stretched for the 

first corner. 

LOOP STITCH (point d'esprit). (Figs. 31 and 32.) 

This is a light, open stitch, chiefly used for making a less transparent 




Fig. 32. Loop Stitch (Several 
Rows Completed.) 



Netting. 



337 



foundation than plain netting. Fasten the thread to the middle of one bar 
of the netting, then make a loose loop to the middle of the top bar of the 
same square (Fig. 31), by carrying the thread, from left to right, over one 
vertical and one horizontal bar of the net, and inserting the needle down- 
wards from above under the bar and 
in front of the working thread. For 
the second row back (also repre- 
sented in Fig. 31) you draw the 
needle through, underneath the bar 
above the loop stitch, and make the 
loop upwards from below; in doing 
this the working thread must lie to 
the left, in front of the needle. Fig. 
32 shows how to join the rows and 
pass the needle through the stitches 
of the preceding row. 

A STAR COMPOSED OF LOOSE 

THBEADS. (Figs. 33, 34 and 35.) 
This star covers sixteen squares of 




Fig. 33. Star Formed of Loose 

Threads. (Laying the Under 

Threads.) 



netting. Fasten the thread to the middle knot of the sixteen squares, then 
carry it diagonally over four squares three times, from left to right, under a 




Fig. 34. Star Formed of Loose Fig. 35. Star Formed of Loose 

Threads. (Laying the Threads. (Finished.) 

Upper Thre^ujs.) 
knot of the foundation, and three times from right to left. In this way the 
bottom rays of the star are formed. For the stitches that complete the fig- 
tire, you start from the middle, and following the direction of the little 
arrow in the illustration, you cover the netting with three horizontal and 
three vertical threads, carried over four squares. When you have laid the 
22 



338 



Home Decorative "Work. 



vertical threads, slip the needle four or five times round in a circle, under 
the diagonal and over the straight threads, but always over the bars of the 
netting. This completes the star, as it is represented in Fig. 35. Care 
must be taken to make the stitches lie quite flat side by side, and not one 

on the top of the other. 

DARNING STITCH (POINT DE RE- 
PRISE). (Figs. 36 and 37.) 
Little flowers and leaves are gen- 
erally executed in this stitch; the 
first course of the thread is shown in 
Fig. 36. Leaves can be made with 
one, two or three veins. Carry the 
needle, invariably from the middle, 
first to the right and then to the left, 
under the threads of the foundation, 
and push the stitches close together, 
as they are made, with the point of 
your needle. This you will be able 






Fig. 



36. Leaves Worked in Darn- 
ing Stitch. (Begun.) 
to do most easily by holding the work so as to make the stitches towards 
you. 

For a leaf with only one division or vein, like the left leaf in Fig. 36, 
merely run the needle through the mid- 
dle of the threads; whereas, for a leaf 
with two or three veins, you must run 
it over and under either one or two 
threads. (See the right leaf in Fig. 36.) 

In working leaves of this kind in 
darning stitch, you must draw your 
stitches at the top and bottom of the 
leaf rather tighter than in the middle, 
so as to give them the proper shape. If 
you wish to make them very slender at 
the bottom, you can finish them off 
with a few overcasting stitches. 

Fig. 37 represents two leaves com- p^^ 3^ Leaves Worked in Darn- 
pleted, one with one vein and the other ing Stitch. (Completed. 

with two. 

POINTED SCALLOPS IN darning STITCH. (Fig. 38.) 

The simplest way to work these scallops is to carry a thread, as shown in 
the illustration, to and fro over the squares, from the knot in one corner to 
the middle of the bar above, and downwards to the opjwsite knot, round 
which the thread is carried and passed upwards again to the middle. As 




Netting. 



339 



the scallop must always be begun from the top, you will have two founda- 
tion threads on one side and three on the other. Here, likewise, you must 
push the threads as closely together as possible with the needle. 

POINTED SCALLOPS IX BrXTONHOLE STITCH. (Fig. 39.) 

Another quite as pretty and easy way of working pointed scallops on a 




Fig. 38. Pointed Scallops in Darn- Fig. 39. Pointed Scallops in But- 

iNG Stitch. tonhole Stitch. 

netted foundation is by making two buttonhole stitches before crossing to 
the opposite side. As shown in the foregoing illustration, you begin by 



I ^^^l''^^^^H ^^^I'^^l 




Fig. 40. Veined Pointed Scallops. Fig. 41. Pointed Scallops in 

Venetian Stitch. 

stretching single or double foundation threads across; then beginning at the 
point, you make, alternately right and left, two buttonhole stitches over the 
foundation threads, so that the working thread is only carried across to the 
opposite side after every second stitch. 

VEINED POINTED SCALLOPS. (Fig. 40.) 

A third way of making pointed scallops is by first stretching a thread to 
and fro across the middle of the square, after which you slip the needle from 
left to right under the middle threatl, and underneath the left bar from 



340 



Home Decorative Work. 



above. Then you carry the needle from right to left over the foundation 
thread and under the right bar, and so on. The one thread must be drawn 
tightly round the other, in order that the stitches may form close and evenly- 
shaped veins, like small cords, on the wrong side of the scallop. There must 
be enough stitches to completely cover the foundation thread that crosses the 
middle of the square. 

POINTED SCALLOP.S IN VENETIAN STITCH. (Fig. 41.) 

The prettiest scallops of all are those worked in Venetian stitch. You 
l)egiu by making from eight to ten buttonhole stitches over one bar of the 
netting; then you work on with the same stitch backwards and forwards, 
making one stitch less in each row, until you come to the one which forms 
the point of the scallop and is fastened to the bar above ; you carry the work- 
ing thread liack on the wrong side to the lower bar, and then under the but- 
tonhole stitches to the next square of the netting. Scallops worked in this 




Fig. 42. Laying the Threads fok Fig. 43. Wheels Worked in Two 

A Wheel, and Beginning Ways. 

OF the Wheel. 

manner can be overcast round the edges in the way described farther on in 

Fig. 50. 

WHEELS EMBROIDERED ON NETTING. (Figs 42 and 43). 

To make wheels, or spiders, as they are also called, you have first to 
fasten the thread to the middle knot of four squares; thence you carry it 
diagonally right and left (Fig. 42, right detail) across the empty squares of 
netting and the knot, and return to the middle, overcasting your first thread 
by the waj' so as to form a closelj^-twisted cord. This is called cording a 
thread. Having reached the center, carry the Avorking thread round and 
round, under and over the corded threads and under the 1)avs of the netting, 
till the wheel covers half the bars. 

Fig. 43 shows, on the right, a finished wheel, and, on the left, another 
way in which it can he made, and indicates the course of the thread over 
and under the lines, as in a darn. These details show also how, when the 
foundation thread of the wheel starts from a corner, it is left single in the 



Netting. 



341 



first square until the wheel is finished ; then the needle is slipped hack along 
the little spoke, opposite to the single thread, and through the wheel, and 
the single thread is corded like the others. 

RIBBED WHEELS. (Fig. 44.) 

Make the foundation of the wheels as Ijefore, over eijjht threads. To 





Fig. 44. Ribbed Wheels. 



Fig. 45. Ribbed Squares or 
Lozenges. 



form the ribs at the back of the wheels (see Fig. 44), m ike a back stitch, on 
the right side, over a bar of the netting, and carry on the needle under one 
bar, so that the thread that lies outside always crosses two bars of the 




Fig. 46. Wheels Set with Buttonholing. 
netting. In this ca.se you must make circles of thread enough to cover the 
bars completely, not half, as l)efore. 

The same stitches, as Fig. 44 shows, can be matle on either side of the 
embroidery, and so as to form either a square or a lozenge (see Fig. 45). 

WHEEL.S SET WITH BUTTONHOLING. (Fig. 46. ) 

A very pretty lace-like effect is produced by encircling the wheels in 



342 



HoikiE Decoratia E Work. 



large squares of netting with a double setting of stitches. The left detail 
of Fig. 46 shows how the thread, having been passed under the wheel and 
twisted once round the single thread, is carried all round the square, 
and forms eight loops. 




Fig. 47. Star with One-sided Buttonhole Stitches. 
The arrow shows the way in which the loops are taken up, and the first 
ring of stitches round the wheel is finished. 

The second detail of the same figure explains the course the thread that 

forms the second ring has to 
take through the loops and 
between the bars; while the 
white line shows the passage 
of the thread over the second 
ring. The third detail repre. 
sents a wheel completed. 
STAR WITH ONE-SIDED BUT- 
TONHOLE STITCHES. 

(Fig. 47.) 
The pattern represented in 
Fig. 47 is the quickest to 
Fig. 48. Rounded Corners ON Netting. work that we know of. Two 
l)uttonhole stitches made upon the outside bar of a square, and a simple 
crossing of the thread at the bottom, produce elongated triangles, which 
should always be begun from the knot. Two triangles stand exiK-tly oppo- 
site to eiich other in one square, and the square that comes in the middlo of 
the four thus filled is ornamented witli a small wheel. 




Netting. 



343 



ROUNDED CORNERS ON NETTING. (Fig. 48.) 
Darning stitches, made over a thread carried diagonally across one 

square and the adjacent corners of that and two other squares, produce the 

figure illustrated in Fig. 48. The accompanying detail shows the mode of 

working. 

The number of stitches depends on the material you use; there should 

be no more than can lie quite flat, side by side, on the diagonal thread. 




Fig. 49. Linen Stitch, Set with Darning Stitch. 
LINEN STITCH, SET WITH DARNING STITCH. (Fig. 49.) 
There are some patterns it would hardly be possible to work on netting 
unless you could soften the outlines by darning stitches, as shown in the fore- 
going figure. When employed as a setting to linen stitch, there should be 
fewer than in Fig, 48; you may also, instead of interrupting them at every 
<»rner, carry them all round a square (see the rijiht detail of the figure). 




Fig. 50. Linen Stitch, Set with Cord Stitch. 
LINEN STITCH, SET WITH CORD STITCH, (Fig. 50.) 

Many figures are also either corded or edged with twisted thread; both 
ways are represented in the illustration. In the latter case you can use the 
«ame thread as for the linen stitch, or if j-ou wish the setting to be very pro- 
nounced, a thicker one. 



344 



Home Decorative Work. 



FLOWER IN DOT STITCH ON A FOUNDATION OF LINEN STITCH. (Fig. 51.) 
With the help of the stitch, which is described in a chapter on em- 




Fig. 51. Flower in Dot Stitch on a Fotjndation of 
Linen Stitch. 

broidery, and represented in Fig. 20 (see ' ' Florence Home Needlework ' ' for 




Fig. 52. Borderingin Buttonhole Stitch. 
1889), a great variety of little supplementary ornaments can be madj, on 




Fig. 53. Cut Work in Embroidered Netting. 
every description of netted ground. 



Netting. 



345 



BORDERING IX BUTTONHOLE STITCH. (Fig. 52.) 
Scalloped edges in netting should be buttonholed ; two or three padding 
threads should be run in first, following the bars of the netting, over which 
the buttonholing is done; the bars of the netting must not be cut away 
until the edge is finished. 



I ly » ■ (♦ i> K fn 


i I J J 1 I 1 


Prnmm 

TTWPn 


1- 

1 

s 


i 1 i i 1 f 1 






Fia. 54. Straight Loop Stitch. Fig. 55. Waved Stitch. 

CUT WORK IN EMBROIDERED NETTING. (Fig. 53.) 

Cut work here means half covering the bars of the netting with button- 
hole stitches, and half cutting them away with scissors. You slightly sepa- 




FiG. 56. Intersected Loop Stitch. 
rate the stitches of the first row of buttonholing, so as to l)e able to intro- 
duce the thread of the second row between them. 



346 



Home Decorative Work. 




Fig, 57. 



Ground Worked in Hori- 
zontal Lines. 

intersected loop stitch, 



STRAIGHT LOOP STITCH. (Fig. 54.) 
In the first row you carry the threa<l over one bar and slip it through 
behind a knot; in the second you do the .same thing, only that above, youf 
needle will pass under three threads, two of them the threads of the loop of 

the first row and the third a bar of 
the net. In every square four 
threads cross each other. 

WAVED STITCH. (Fig. 55.) 

This stitch,* which forms a close 
waved ground, is produced by pass- 
ing the thread in each row of the 
netting over a square and behind a 
knot. "When the pattern admits of 
it, as it mostly does, a considerably 
thicker thread is used for this stitch 
and for the stitches represented in 
Figs. 58, 59 and 60 than that in 
which the netting is made. 
(Fig. 56.) 

Begin by covering the whole surface to be embroidered with plain loop 
stitches, then stretch threads diagonally across the squares of the netting and 
the loop stitches; one set of threads 
running over the stitches and under 
the knots of the netting, the other 
under the first and second threads of 
the loop stitches and over the first 
crossed threads and the knots. 

The laying and stretching of these 
threads must, it is hardly necessary 
to say, be systematically and regu- 
larly done. 

GROUND WORKED IN HORIZONTAL 
LINES. (Fig 57 ) 
Make half cross-stitches over four 
squares of netting, by passing the Fig. 58. Ground Worked in Stitches 
thread alternately over and under Placed One Above the Other. 
three knots, and under three squares of the netting. In the second row, 
cross the threads over those of the firet row, as is shown in our engraving. 
GROUND WORKED IN STITCHES PLACED ONE ABOVE THE OTHER. (Fig. 58.) 
Cover a whole row of squares with cross stitches, and leave three rows of 
squares empty. When you have a sufficient number of rows of cross- 
stitches, take a long needle and pass it upwards from below, and from right 




Netting. 



347 



to left, nnder the two bars of the tliird upper square; then pass downwards 
to the first square of the three Iwttom rows and under the bars from right to 
left, so as again to leave three squares between the fresh stitches. The 
jiext row of stitches is made in the same manner, so that the stitches are 

not only set contrary ways, but 
reciprocally cover each other. 

LATTICED GROUND. (Fig. 59.) 

Begin by running the thread 
to and fro, under two vertical 
Ijars and over three horizontal 
ones. When the ground is en- 
tirely covered, carry your thread 
from right to left, under the 
bars over which the first rows of 
thread are crossed; then take it 
over the long crosses, that cor- 
respond to five squares of netting. 
Fig. 59. Latticed Grouxd. :iiid pass it in the same line 

nnder the bars of the netting. In coming back, the long stitches cross each 

other, over the stitches of the first rows. 





Fig. 60. Ground Worked iv Rus- 
sian' Stitch. 



Fig. 61. Ground Worked in Two 
Sizes of Thread. 



GROUND WORKED IN RUSSIAN .STITCH. (Fig. GO.) 

Pass the thread from left to right, under a bar of the netting, carry it 
downward.s over four squares, and pass it again, from left to right, under 
the bar, then upwards, again over four squares of netting, and so on. The 
stitches of the next rows are made in the same manner; you have only to see 
that the loops formed by the stitches all come on the same line of knots. 



348 



Home Decorative Work. 



GROUND WORKED IN TWO SIZES OF THREAD. (Fig. 61.) 
Herewith begins a series of stitches, copied in part from one of the 
oldest and most curious pieces of embroidered netting we have ever met. 




Fig, 62. Ground with Wheels akd Loop Stitch. 
with. They may be worked witli Corticelli rope silk (Fig. D) and Corticelli 
embroidery silk (Fig. E), the former being used for the darning and the al- 
mond shaped stitches between; the latter for the buttonhole stitches. 




Fig. 63. Ground Worked in Darning and Loor Stitch. 
Whenever two sizes of thread are used for one pattern, all the stitches in the 
coarse thread should be put in first, and those in the fine last. 

ground with wheels and loop stitch. (Fig. 62.) 
You begin with the coarse thread and finish all the \vheel.« first, making 



Netting. 



349 



them over each four threads of the netting; then with the fine thread you 
make loop stitches between them, in rows, as ehown in Figs. 31 and 32. 
GKOUND WORKED IN DARNING AND LOOP STITCH. (Fig. 63.) 

The darning stitches are made in coarse thread, over four squares of the 




Fig. 64. Ground Worked in Two Bizes of Thread. 

netting, in a horizontal direction, with loop stitches in the fine thread made 
between them, over the same number of squares. 




Fig, Go. Ground Worked with Cross-stitches in One Size of Thread. 

GROUND WORKED IN TWO SIZES OF THREAD. (Fig. 64.) 
Carry the coarse thread from right to left under the first knot of the 
netting, and then under the next, from left to right. This has to be done 



350 



Home Decorative Work. 



twice, to and fro, so that the squares of the netting are edged on both sides', 
with a double layer of threads. 

When the whole foundation has been thus covered, take the fine thread 
and make loop stitches in the squares between the other rows of stitches^ 




Fig. 66. Ground Worked with Darning and Cord Stitches. 
passing the needle for that purpose over the double stitch. Lastly, inter- 
sect the loop stitches with straight threads, and pass the needle each time 
through the knot of the netting. 




Fia. 67. Ground Worked with Squares and Wheels. 
GROUND WORKED WITH CROSS-STITCHE.S IN ONE SIZE OF THREAD. 

(Fig. 65.) 
This pattern, very like the foregoing one, consists of three diagonal rows- 



Netting. 



351 




©f stitches, worked to and fro, with oross-stitches made over thera. You 
may also begin with the cross-stitches in the fine thread, and work the triple 
stitches over them in the coarse. 

GROUND AVORKED WITH DARNING AND 
CORD STITCHES. (Fig. 66.) 
Patterns executed chiefly in darning 
stitches in a comparatively coarse thread, 
present a closer and heavier appearance 
than those we have been descriljiug. 
Here, every other square of the netting 
is filled, as closely as possible, with 
stitches; the empty squares between 
are intersected diagonally with corded 
threads. 

GROUND WORKED WITH SQUARES AND 

WHEELS. (Figs. 67, 68 and 69.) 

A ground very often met with in old 

Fig 68. Ground Worked with embroidered netting, consists of diago- 

Squares AND Wheels. nal lines of squares closely filled with 

darning stitches, alternating with diagonal lines of squares, each with a. 

email wheel in the middle. 

In Fig. 68 the darning 
stitches and the wheels, which 
are both worked with the 
same material, cover four 
squares of the netting. 

Larger expanses of netting 
may also be entirely filled 
with wheels (Fig. 69). To 
make a really satisfactory 
grounding of this kind, you 
should be careful always to 
caiTy your thread over the 
bars of the netting and under 
the threads that are stretched 
diagonally across. 
GROUND WORKED IN CROSS 
AND DARNING STITCH. 

(Fig. 70.) 




Fig. 70. 



Ground with Large 
Wheels. 

You begin, as before, by making the close darning stitches, and then 
proceed to the cross-stitches. To give them the right shape, finish all the: 
rows of stitches one way first; in the subsequent rows that cross the first 
ones, you introduce the thread between the stitches that were first crossed^ 



352 



Home Decorative Work. 



GROUND OF GEOMKTEICAL FIGURES. (Fig. 71.) 
This pattern, quite different from all the others, consists of simple geo- 
metrical lines. Fasten the thread to a knot of the netting, then caiTy it, 
always diagonally, under three other knots, and repeat this three times, 
after which carry it once round the bar of the netting to fasten it, and hack 




Fig. 70. Ground Worked in Cross and Darning Stitch. 
again to the Ivuot which it already encircles, and from thence begin a new 
square. Owing to your having always to bring the thread back to the knot 
where the next square is to begin, you will have four threads on two of the 
ndes and six on the two others. 

In the second and subsequent rows the needle has to pass twice under 







^M 


^^^B 






f^^^SM^^ 


l^^^ajtH^PI 






^^^s 


^^^H 






^^^(^^ 


i^^^l^^PI 






^^^^^ 


^^^^^^m 






^^^B 


^^^^S 












H^^^^ 


T^K^"^ ^?if^ "^ J 


pnr^^^^^i|HH^^9 




^^n^^^ 


)y i 


>i^S^H 




■^^ 


^m 


^m 







Fig. 71. Ground of Geometrical Figures. 

the angles that were first formed, in order that over the whole surface all 
the corners may be equally covered and connected. 



Netting. 



353 



GROUND OF NETTING EMBROIDERED. (Fig. 72.) 

We have already had occasion, iu the foregoing explanations, to point 
out the advantage of embroidering with two sizes of thread, but it is only 
iu a piece of work of a certain size that it is possible really to judge of the 
excellent effect produced by the use of two threads of different sizes. 




Fk;. 72. Ground of Netting Embroidered. 
The principal lines of the pattern, which are in darning stitch, are 
worked in a very coarse thread like Corticelli rope silk (Fig. D), while the 
loop stitches are iu finer size, say, Corticelli wash cmbroidcrv silk, size EE 
(Fig. E). 
23 



354 Home Decorative Work. 

Note. Those who would like to try this embroidery on plain netting 
which is ready made, will perhaps find it on sale at the linen stores, either 
by the yard or in fixed shapes for various purposes. Pieces of linen lace net 
already embroidered in linen, may be tastefully embellished by the addition 
of pretty stitches of contrasting colors with Corticelli wash silk. 



TATTING. 

JVoie.— This article has been prepared for us by the publishers of " Florence 
Home Needle-work," which is a guarantee of its accuracy. To this article, we ap- 
pend Housekeeper patterns. 

4r=7r^ATTING requires for its execution simply a shuttle and the thread 
I from which the trimming is to be made. This has commonly been 
eM^ done, by those fond of the work, with cotton or linen, but very 
beautiful examples of tatting are now frequently to be Seen made from silk. 
While other sizes and kinds may be used, for the rapid execution of good 
work, Florence knitting silk (Fig. B) is, owing to its " soft finish " and dur- 
ability, the most satisfactory, and may be used either in the No. 300 (coarse) 
or No. 500 (fine) sizes. It is hardly necessary to say that the width of 
trimmings made in this way will vary according to size of the silk, as a 
coarse thread makes the knots and picots larger and heavier. Those ladies 
who have learned to do tatting with fine cotton thread, and thrown it aside 
as a tedious work, will find new interest and recreation in a trial of any of 
the pretty designs shown here, using Florence knitting silk in size No. 300. 
For use on flannels or other garments, trimming made in this way is very 
beautiful. 

SHUTTLES. 
The tatting shuttle consists of two oval blades of either bone or ivory, 
pointed at both ends and joined together in the middle. A good shuttle con- 
tributes to good workmanship. In making a selection, see that the two ends 
are close enough to prevent the thread from protruding; this is more impor- 
tant in tatting with two shuttles. The center piece, which joins the two 
oval blades together, should have a hole bored in it, large enough Ibr the silk 
to pass through. In filling the shuttle, be careful not to wind on too much 
silk at once, or the blades will gape open at the ends, and the silk get soiled 
by constant contact with the hands. 

FIRST POSITION OF THE HANDS. (Fig. 1.) 

The construction of the knots or stitches appears at first sight to present 
great difficulties, but will be easily mastered by attention to the directions 
given here. One thing to be constantly borne in mind is that when the right 
hand has passed the shuttle through the loop, it must stop with a sudden 
jerk, and hold the silk tightly extended until the left hand has drawn up 

Copyright 1889 by Nonotuck Silk Co. 

355 



356 



Home Decokative Work. 



the knot. After filling the shuttle, take the end of the silk between the 
thumb and forefinger of the left hand, and the shuttle ir ■ihe right; pass the 




Fig. 1. First Position of the Hands. 
Bilk over the third and fourth fingers of the left hand, bring it back towards 




Fig. 2. Second Position of the Hands. 
the thumb and cross the two threads under the fingers, as indicated in Fig. 
1. Pass the silk that comes from the shuttle around the little finger of the 
right hand, and give the shuttle the direction shown in the engraving. 



Tatting. 



357 



SECOND AND THIRD POSITIONS OF THE HANDS. (FigS. 2 and 3.) 

Make the shuttle pass between the first and third fingers in the direc- 
tion indicated by the arrow in Fig. 2, and bring it out behind the loop. 




Fig. 3. Third Position of the Hands. 
Here the first difficulties lor beginners arise, and until they have sufficiently 




Fig. 4. Fourth Position of the Hands. 
mastered the movements of both hands not to confuse them, we advise them 
to pay careful attention to these instructions. As soon as you have put the 
shuttle through the loop, place the right hand on the table with the siUc 
tightly extended leaving the left hand perfectly passive. Then, raising the 
third and fourth fingers of the left hand with the loop upon them, pull up 



358 



Home Decorative Work. 



the loop, stretching the silk tightly in so doing by extending the fingers. 
By this movement a knot is formed — the first part of the "double knot " — 
which is the most common one in tatting. Kemember that the right hand 
must be kept perfectly still as long as the left is in motion, and that the 





Fig. 5. Single or Half Knot. Fig. 6. Josephine Picot. 

knot must be formed of the loop silk that is in the left hand. The right 
hand, or shuttle silk, must always be free to run through the knots; as, if it 
were itself formed into knots, it would not have the free play needed for 
loosening and tightening the loop on the left hand, as required. 

FOUETH POSITION OF THE HANDS. (Fig. 4.) 

The second part of a knot is formed by the following movements : Pass 




Fig. 7. Fifth Position of the Hands. 

the shuttle, as indicated in Fig. 4, from left to right, between the first and 
third fingers through the extended loop; the right hand, seizing the shuttle 
in front of the empty loop, extends the silk, when the left hand pulls up this 
second part of the knot as it did the first. 

SINGLE OK HALF KNOTS, JOSEPHINE PICOTS. (Figs. 5 and 6.) 
The Josephine picot or purl, as it is also called in tatting, consists of a 
series of single or half knots formed of the first knot only. These picots can 



Tatting. 



359 



be made of four or five knots, as in Fig. 5, or of ten or twelve knots, as in 
Fig. 6. 

FIFTH POSITIOX OF THE HANDS. (Fig. 7.) 

When the second knot, forming the double knot, has been made, the 
two hands resume the position shown in Fig. 2. Fig. 7 reproduces the same 
and shows us also a few iinished knots. 




Fig. 8. Position of the Hands for Making a Picot. 
position of the hands for making a picot. (fig. 8.) 
Picots are introduced into tatting patterns as they are into crochet. 
They also serve to connect the different parts of a pattern together, and 
make possible many pretty combinations. 




Fig. 9. Open Picot. Fig. 10. Close Picot. 

OPEN AND CLOSE PICOTS. (Figs. 9 and 10.) 

These are formed of single knots, leaving a loop on the extended silk, as 

shown in Fig. 9, and a short length of silk between the knots. Fini.sh the 

«econd half knot, and when you have pulled it up, join it to the preceding 

knot. In this manner the picot represented in Fig. 10 is formed. In every 



360 



Home Decorative Work. 



kind of tatting, the knot that comes after the picot is independent of the 
loop; thus, if the directions say, 2 knots, 1 picot, 3 knots, 1 picot, 2 knots, 
etc. , you must count the knot that served to form the loop, and not make 2 
knots, 1 picot, 4 knots, etc. To join the different rings, ovals, etc., together 





Fig. 11. Tatting with Two Shuttles. 

by means of picots, take iip the thread that runs over the left hand with a 
crochet needle, inserting it into the picot downwards from above, draw the 
silk through, and pull it up like any other knot. 

TATTING WITH TWO SHUTTLES. (Fig. 11.) 

Two shuttles are u.sed in tatting when the little rings are not to be con- 
nected together at the bottom by a 
thread, when you wish to hide the 
passage of the silk to another group 
of knots, and when threads of sev- 
eral colors are used. 

When working with two shut- 
Pass one thread over tlie third finger of 
the left hand, wind it twice around the fourth finger, and leave the shuttle 
hanging down. Pass the second shuttle into the riglit hand, and make the 
same movements with it as you do in working with one sliuttle only. 

DETACHED SCALLOPS. (Fig. 12.) 

Make 12 double knots with one shuttle, then tighten the silk so as to 
draw them together into a half ring. The next knot must touch the last 
knot of the scallop before it. 



Fig. 12. Detached Scallops 
ties, tie the two threads together. 



Tatting. 



361 




Fig. 13. Scallops Joined at Top. 




SCALLOPS JOINED TOGETHEK AT THE TOP. (Fig. 13.) 
With one shuttle make 4 double, 1 picot, * 8 double, 1 picot, 4 double^ 
close the half ring, 4 double, draw the silk through the picot, and repeat 
from the star. 

SCALLOPS AVITH PICOTS. 

(Fig. 14.) 
Make with one shuttle, 4 
double, 1 picot, * 3 double, 1 
picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 
1 picot, 3 double, 1 picot, 4 
double, close the ring. 
Leave sufficient length of silk before beginning the next ring, for the 

rings not to overlap each ^ 

other; make 4 double, draw 
the left-hand silk through the 
fifth picot of the preceding 
ring, and repeat from the star. 

TATTED INSERTION. (Fig. 15.) 

Make with one shuttle a Fig. 14. Scallops with Picots. 

ring like the ones in Fig. 14, then, leaving a length of about three-sixteenths 

of one inch of silk, make a 
second ring; turn the work, 
leaving the same length of 
silk again, begin a third ring, 
which you join after the 
fourth double to the fifth picot 
of the first ring. Turn the 
work after each ring is made, 
so that all the upper rings 
Fig. 15. Tatted Insertion. represent the right side of the 

•work, and all the lower ones the wrong. 

TATTED INSERTION. (Fig. 

16.) 
To be worked with two 
shuttles. Begin with one 
thread and one shuttle and 
make one ring, as in Figs. 
14 and 15, with a second ring 
close to it; then, passing the 
silk over the left hand, take 

the second shuttle in the Fig. 16. Tatted Insertion. 

right hand and make six doul)le on the second threatl; after which you again, 
make a ring above and one below with one shuttle only. 



->«J>' ''%ii>^5* '^i'ii\'f/ V//iii\^ '^'rtiiii'f' '''t'/iiiv;^' '%ui»^' 

.4^"%, /^'%, j^'^'k^ '5i^"%.,#"'%i_»F*"*Vw,'>* 

'\5, .4f''A K-'%. a''h. -s"-'?., .?'-«l J?-*S,. 




362 



Home Decorative Work. 




EDGING OF TATTING AND CROCHET. (Fig. 17.) 

Make with one shuttle: 1 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 
1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot twice as long as the others. 2 double, 1 picot, 2 
double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 long picot, 1 double. 

Close the ring, fasten off the 
two threads on the wrong side 
with two or three stitches. After 
the first knot join the next ring 
to the preceding one by the long 
picot, and work the remainder as 
has been already described. 
When you have a sufficient nuni- 
FiG. 17. Edging of Tatting and Crochet, ber of rings, pick up the picots 
by crochet trebles with three chain stitches between them. On this first 
row crochet a second, consisting of 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 single in the 
treble of the first row. To finish 
the bottom part of the work, 
make 1 double crochet in the 
first picot, 3 chain, 1 double cro- 
chet in the second picot, 3 chain, 
1 double in the third picot, 1 
chain, 1 double in the first picot 
of the next ring. One row of sin- 
gle crochet serves as a footing to 
the edging. 

TATTED EDGING. (Fig. 18.) 

Worked with two shuttles. The first row is worked like Fig. 10 with 

one shuttle ; the second and third 
are worked with two. Fasten 
the silk of the right-hand shuttle 
into the first picot, then work on 
this silk the same number of 
double knots and jjicots as in the 
first roAV, and join each half ring 
to the picot of the row before. In 
the third row, insert 3 picots be- 
tween the 8 double knots of the 
Fig. 19. Tatted Edging. ^q^v above. Here a picot called 

the Josephine may be substituted for the plain picot. 
tatted edging. (Fig. 19.) 
Worked with two shuttles and with silk of two colors. After making a 
strin*' of rino-s like those in Fig. 17 with silk of one color, fasten this and the 




Fig. 18. Tatted Edging. 




Tatting. 



363 



silk of the second color io the middle picot. Supposing the first color to be 
light and the second dark, you proceed by holding the light silk in the right 
hand, and the dark silk laid over the left hand, work 3 double, 1 picot, 3 
<lou))le; then put the light or right-hand silk separately through the two 
picots of the rings, and continue to make 3 double, 1 picot, and 3 double. 
The next row also is made with two shuttles. Hold the light silk in the 
right hand, with the dark silk laid across the left hand ; make * 4 double, 1 
picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double ; turn the work, and with the right-hand 
shuttle make 6 double, put the silk through the little picot formed above 
the middle picot of the rings, 6 double, close the ring; turn the work, and 
make with two shuttles, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double; put 
the light silk through the two dark picots, and repeat from the star. The 

first row of crochet for the footing 
consists of chain and double cro- 
chet only, the second of chain 
and trebles. 

MEDALLION. (Fig. 20.) 
Take two colors of silk and fill 
two shuttles with a light and tivo 
with a dark color. Make with 
one shuttle, 24 double and 12 
picots, six of them short and six 
long; close the ring, break off the 
silk and fasten off the ends by a 
stitch or two on the wrong side^ 

For the next four rows take two 

Fig. 20. Medallion. shuttles. 

First Row. — With the shuttles containing the light color, fasten the ends 
•on to a short picot, and make * 3 double, 1 short picot, 2 double, 1 long 
picot, 2 double, 1 long picot, 2 douljle, 1 long picot, 2 double, 1 short picot, 
3 double; pass the right-hand silk through one of the short picots of the first 
ring, repeat the series five times from the star. 

When yov reach the sixth half ring, instead of making the second picot, 
put the left-hand silk through the short picot of the first half ring, then 
complete the last double knots, cut the threads off, and i^ass them through 
the picot of the ring and fasten them off on the wrong side. 

Second How. — With the shuttles filled with the light color, fasten the 
ends to a long picot, then make * 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double ; pass the right- 
hand silk through the picot of the first row, and repeat the series seventeen 
times from the star. 

Third Sow. — With the shuttles filled with the dark color, fasten the 
«uds on to one of the picots of the last row, and make * 4 double; pass the 




364 



Home Decorative Work. 



right-hand silk through the picot of the second row, make a long picot, 4 
double, and repeat this series all around the medallion, lantil you have 
eighteen scallops. 

Fourth Bow. — With the shuttles filled with the dark color, * 2 double, 1 
picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double ; pass the right-hand 
silk, from the wrong side, through the picot of the second row, and begin 
again at the star. 




Fig. 21. Insertion of Tatting and Crochet. 
INSERTION OF TATTING AND CROCHET. (FigS. 21 and 22.) 

Worked with one shuttle. The tatting silk should be coarser than the 
crochet silk. Begin with two strings of half rings, consisting of 4 short 
picots and 3 long. Leave a length of thread between, equal to the diameter 
of the ring. AVlien the two strings of half rings are finished, crochet with 
the fine silk, 6 double over each length of silk between and at the base of 
the scallops. 




Second Bow. 



Fig. 22. (Detail of Fig. 21.) 
-Make 5 chain, 1 double in the fourth double of the first 



In the row that connects the two rows of tatting, put the third chain 
stitch into the corresponding stitch of the opposite roAv. 

For the outside edge, make 1 double in the first short picot, 8 chain, 
* 1 treble in the second short picot, 7 chain, 1 treble in the third short jncot, 
8 chain, 1 double in the fourth short picot, 1 double in the sliort picot oppo- 



Tattincx. 365 

site, 3 chain ; pass the silk through the fourth of the eight chain stitches, 4 
chain, and repeat from the star. 

For the last row, make 3 double in each of the last three of the 8 chain, 
* 1 picot of 5 chain above the treble, 4 double in the four next chain, 1 picot. 
1 single in the same stitch as the fourth double before the picot, 3 double, 1 
picot, 3 double, miss the first and the last stitches, then make 3 double on 
the next scallop and repeat from the star. 

EDGING OF TATTING AND CROCHET. (Fig. 23.) 
Worked with two shuttles and in two colors. With the light color: 2 
double, 1 short picot, 2 double, 1 long picot, * 2 double, 1 picot of the ordi- 
nary size, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 long picot, 2 
double, 1 short picot, 2 double, close the ring. With two shuttles: 3 double, 
pass the silk through the first picot, 3 double, 1 long picot, 2 double. With 
the light color: 4 double, pass the silk through the ninth picot of the first 




Fig. 23. Edging of Tatting and Crochet. 

ring, 3 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close the ring. With two shuttles: 2 
double, 1 picot, 3 double, 1 short picot, 3 double. With one shuttle: 2 
double, pass the silk through the empty picot of the small ring, 2 double; 
pass the silk through the loug picot of the large ring, then repeat from the 
star. 

To complete the edge, crochet first one row, consisting of * 1 double in 
the first of the five picots of the large ring, 4 chain, 1 double in the second 
picot, 4 chain, 1 double in the third picot, 4 chain, 1 double in the fourth 
picot, 4 chain, 1 double in the fifth picot, and repeat from the star. 

Second Boio. — Make 2 double on the third and fourth of the first chain 
stitches. Over the second and third chain, 1 double, 1 half-treble, 2 trebles, 
1 half-treble, 1 double; on the last four chain, 2 double. 

For the footing, make 1 double in the long picot, 5 chain, 1 double in 
the next picot, 5 chain, 1 double treble in the short picot; leave the last two 
loops of the treble on the needle; 3 trebles in the first lower loop of the 
double treble; keep the last loops of these 3 trebles on the needle; after the 



366 Home Decorative W6rk. 

fourth treble, draw the needle through the four trebles. The last row con- 
sists of 3 chain, 1 treble over 5 chain. 

MEDALLION OF TATTING. (Fig. 24.) 

Worked with two shuttles and two colors. 

First Row. — With one shuttle: 12 double and 6 picots, close the ring. 

Second Bow. — With two shuttles and the dark silk laid across the left 
hand, knot the threads into one of the picots of the first ring; 1 double, 1 
long picot, 2 double, pass the right-hand thread through one of the picots of 
the ring, 1 picot, 2 double and so on. After the twelfth picot, fasten oft' the 
threads on the wrong side by two or three stitches. 

Third j\'oio. — With one shuttle: * 3 double, pass the silk through one of 




Fig. 24. Tatted Medallion. 
the picots of the second row, make 3 double, close the ring, leave one-eighth 
of one inch of thread, turn the work, 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close the 
ring, leave one-eighth of one inch of thread again, and repeat eleven times 
from the star. 

Fourlh Bow. — With two shuttles: fasten the ends to one of the picots of 
the twelve rings of the third row, * 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double. With one 
shuttle: 3 double, pass the silk through the picot, 3 double, 1 picot, 2 
double, 1 picot, 3 double, close the ring. Close to this, 3 double, pass the 



Tatting. 367 

silk through the second picot of the first ring, 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double, 
dose the ring. Again close to the last ring, 3 double; pass the silk through 
the picot of the second ring, 2 double, 1 picot, 3 double, close the ring. 
"With two shuttles: 3 double; pass the silk through the second picot of the 
thiiti ring, 3 double; iiisten the silk to the picot of the ring of the third row 
and repeat eleven times from the star. 

Fifth Row. — With two shuttles, and the dark color across the left hand^ 
6 double and 2 picots over the lower rings and 10 double and 4 picots over 
the upper rings. 

TATTED EDGING. (Fig. 25.) 

Use two shuttles and two colors of silk. Begin with two shuttles, and 




Fig. 25. Tatted Edging. 
the dark silk across the left hand: 10 double, 1 picot, 6 double. With one 
shuttle: 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double, close the ring, turn the work, make a 
second ring like the first, and close to it; turn the work. With two shut- 
tles: 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double. With one shuttle: 6 double, pass the silk 
through the picot of the ring opposite, 6 double, close the ring; 6 double, 1 
picot, 6 double, close the ring; turn the work to make the next half ring. 
Make three rows of half rings connected by rings. In the second row you 
pass the silk from the ring through the picot to which the second ring was 
fastened in the first row. For the outside scallops, make with one shuttle: 
* 5 double, pass the silk through tlie picot that connects two rings, 5 double, 
close the ring. With two shuttles, 4 double. With one shuttle: 2 double, 
1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double; pass the silk through the picot of the 
half ring of the third row, 2 double; then 8 picots more with 2 doul)le be- 



368 



Home Decorative Work. 



tween each, close the ring. With two shuttles: 4 double, 1 long picot, 2 
douVjle, 1 short picot, 2 (loul)le, 1 short picot, 3 double. With qne shuttle: 
5 double, pass the silk through the third picot of the large ring, 5 double, 
close the ring. With two shuttles: 2 double, 6 picots with 2 double after 
«ach picot. With one shuttle: 5 double; pass the silk through the third 
picot of the large ring, 5 double, close the ring. With two shuttles: 3 
<louble, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double; pass the right- 
hand silk through the sixth picot of the large ring. With two shuttles: 4 
<loul)le, then repeat from the star. The footing is worked in crochet, and 
consists of one row of chain stitches and one of trebles. 

"Housekeeper" Tatting. 

EVERLASTING INSERTION. (Fig. 1.) 

Two shuttles are required to make this insertion. Tie the threads, and, 

with one work a scallop composed of 
4 doul)le, 1 picot, 4 double, 1 picot, 
4 double, 1 picot, 4 double. Turn 
this scallop down after closing it, and 
with the second shuttle work on the 
foundation thread 6 double, 1 picot, 
6 double ; turn the work, take first 
shuttle and work two scallops like 
the first one, connecting the picots, 
and leaving no thread between the 
Fig. 1. second and third. When the third 

scallop is closed, take the second shuttle again, and work on the foundation 

thread 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double; then begin another scallop. So continue 

until the strip is of the desired 

length, then break the thread and 

begin again, fastening the middle 

picot of each new scallop to the mid- 
dle picot of corresponding scallop of 

previous row. 

CLOVER-LEAF EDGING. (Fig. 2.) FiG. 2. 

This edging is worked with two shuttles, though an edging very like it 

may be worked with one — the difference being in the connection between 

the clover leaves. 

Tie the threads together, and with one of them work 2 double, 1 picot, 

repeating until there are five picots and finishing with 3 double, then close 

the scallop. 

Make two more scallops like the first, leaving no space between them 

•draw the third scallop up, and fasten it to the place wliere the firet scallop 

is closed. Now on the foundation thread work with the second shuttle 2 





Tatting. 



369 




double, 1 picot, repeating until there are seven picots, then 2 double; turn 
the work, drop the second shuttle, and with tlie first begin another scallop, 
fastening the middle picot to the middle picot of the last scallop of the first 
leaf 

To make clover-leaf edge with one shuttle, simply leave a plain length 
of thread between the leaves. 

BESSIE LACE. (Fig. 3.) 
This beautiful lace is especially suited to the trimming of underwear. 
It is worked with two threads. Tie the threads and begin by working with 
one shuTtle 6 double, 1 loop, 5 double, 1 loop, 7 double on the other thread, 

then drop the first shuttle used, take 
the other and begin a scallop by 
forming a loop around the fingers, 
leaving no thi e id between the work 
just done, and the beginning of the 
scallop. "Work 7 double, fasten to 
the first stitch worked with two 
threads, 7 double^ close the scallop. 
Begin another scallop, leaving no 
thread between the two, and work 5 
Fig. 3. double, 1 picot, 4 double, 1 picot, 5 

double; close the scallop, and fasten securely to the place where the first 
scallop was closed. Turn the work, pick up the first shuttle, and with both 
threads work a stem of 7 double; turn the work again, and with the second 
shuttle begin the first scallop of the 
clover leaf on the edge. Work 4 
double, fosten to second picot of 
second scallop worked, 2 double, 1 
picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 
picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double; 
close the scallop. Begin the next 
scallop Avithout leaving thi-ead be- 
tween the two. Work 3 double, 
fasten to last picot of preceding scal- 
lop, * 2 double, 1 picot, repeat until 
there are six picots besides the one 
joining the scallops, 3 double, close 
the scallop. Fig. i. 

DUCHESS LACE. (Fig. 4.) 
This edging is worked crosswise, with two threads. The small rings 
are worked with one thread, the scallops joining the rings Mith two. The 
rings are always worked with the shuttle thread. Begin by making the first 
24 




370 



Home Decorative "Work. 



ring as follows: 5 double, 1 picot, 5 double, draw into a ring. Turn the 
work, and use both shuttles, forming stitches with one on the threatl in the 
other. Work 2 double, 1 picot, repeating until there are five picots, then 2 
double, turn the work, and make a looj) over the hand for another of the 
small rings. Make 5 double, fasten to the picot of the first ring, 5 double, 
draw up. Make another ring like the first, without leaving a spaoi of 
thread between the two. Turn the work and make another connecting scal- 
lop; then make two more rings and another scallop. Now make one ring, 
and a scallop which forms the point of the lace, as shown iu the illustration. 




Fig, 5. 

In going back, the little rings must be fastened to the rings alreatly made ta 
form groups of four. 

"WTien turning the work for the upper edge, make a scallop consisting of 
2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double; turn the 
work again, and begin another figure of the pattern, joining the middle 
picots ot the scallops. 

WHEEL FOR TIDY. (Fig. 5.) 

This wheel is begun by working a ring composed of eight picots, each 



Tatting. 



371 



separated by 2 double. Draw close, tie the ends of the thread together, and 
cut them off. 

The second round is worked with two threads, the rings with one, and 
the scallops joining them with two, by forming the stitches with one on the 
other. Begin by making 6 double, fasten to a picot of the ring first made, 
6 double, close and turn the work. With the two shuttles work 4 double, 1 
picot, 4 double, then begin another ring, fastening it to the next picot of the 
center ring, and so continue all the way round, then tie the threads to- 
gether and break them off. 

The third round consists of eight separate figures which are worked 
as follows: Begin by making 3 double, then 5 picots, each separated by 2 
double, then 3 doul)le ami close. Make three of these rings, leaving no 
space of thread ])etween them, and fastening the second ring by the middle 
picot to the picot in one of the scallops of the previous round. 

The fourth round requires two threads. Fasten both threads to the 
fourth picot of a figure in the preceding round, as shown in the illustration, 

then work a scallop con- 
sisting of 2 double, 5 picots 
each separated by 2 double, 
2 double; i'asten to the 
second picot of the third 
ring in the figure, and re- 
peat all the way round; 
tie the threads and break 
them off. 

The fifth round is simi- 
lar to the fourth. The 
thread is fastened in the 
middle picot of a scallop of 
the previous round, as 
shown in the illustration, 
and each scallop consists of 
2 double, 7 picots each 
separated by 2 double, 2 
double. 




FlU. G. 



ROSETTE FOK YOKE OR INSERTION. (Fig. 6.) 

This is beautiful for insertions and for the yoke of a chemise, and by 
combining it with the inner circle lovely yokes may be made for nightgowns 
and for children's dresses. It is made with one shuttle. 

Begin by making 1 double, 1 picot, until you have eight picots, then, 
close in a ring. Fasten the thread to the nearest picot, leaving one-tenth of 
an inch space, then work a ring as follows: 4 double, 1 picot, * 1 double, 1 



372 Home Decorative Work. 

picot, repeating from the star until you have seven picots, then 4 double 
and close. 

Fasten the thread in the next picot of middle ring, leaving one-tenth of 
an inch space, make 4 double, fasten into last picot of previous ring, then 
finish the ring to correspond Aviththat just made; so continue all around the 
ring. You will have to use judgment about the length of thread to be left 
between the rings, and also about the length of the picots, as it will depend 
somewhat upon the size of thread used. When you have made the eighth 
ring, the circle should l^e flat, and none of the threads should be too loose. 

Fasten the eighth ring to the first, then around this ring work a round 
consisting of four-leaved figures. 

These rings are each worked as follows: 4 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 
picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close. 
No thread is left between the four rings. The middle picot of the first ring 
is joined to the middle picot of the first ring in the rosette. The illustra- 
tion shows the method of joining the figures so clearly that no further in- 
struction is necessary. 

STAE EDGING. (Fig. 7.) 

This edging consists of two rows of stars, each star being composed of 




Fig. 7. 
six rings. It is worked with but one thread. Each ring consists of 6 double, 
1 picot, 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double, 1 picot, 6 double. Work the six rings 
close together, and join first and last picots. Tie the threads securely, and 
cut them off. 

By glancing at the illustration, the worker will easily see liow the stars 
are joined together. The pattern must be filled out with half stars. Finish 
the edging with a row of crochet chain stitches to sew it on by. 

EMPRESS INSERTION. (Fig. 8.) 

This insertion is made in four rows, and is worked with two threads. 
First Bow. — Make a ring of 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double, close. Turn the 



Tatting. 



373 



© ft P '•0 



work downward, and with both threads work a connecting scallop consist- 
ing of 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double; turn the work again. Make another 
ring like the first, joining them ])y the picots. Eepeat from the beginning 
of the row. 

Second Row. — Make 6 double, fasten to the joined picots of previous 
row, 6 double; close in a ring. Turn the work, and make a connecting 
scallop of 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double. Turn the work, and make another 

ring, joining as before, and so 
continue. This makes half of the 
insertion. 

The third row is worked like 
the first, joining the picots in 
the connecting scallop. The 
fourth row is like the second. 
EUPHEMIA LACE. (Fig. 9.) 

This lace is beautiful for 
aprons, and undergarments, and 
when worked in silk forms a 
very pretty trimming for worsted 
dresses. It is worked in four 
rows. 

First Mow. — This consists of 
^^^' 8. stars with six leaves, each of 

which are composed of G double, 3 picots each separated by 4 double, 6 

double. Work these rings 

close together, joining them 

by the first and last picot of 

eacli. The two rings whioli 

are intended to form the 

bottom of the lace, have five 

picots instead of three, mak- 
ing them considerably 

larger. Keep this in mind 

when joining the stars. 
Second Bow. — Fasten the 

thread to the middle picot of 

one of the upper rings of the 

star, as shown in the illustra- 
tion, then with two threads 

work a connecting scallop of Fig. 9. 

6 double; turn the work and make a ring consisting of 6 double, 1 picot, 6 

double. Now with both threads work a connecting srjUop of 6 double, join 




374 



Home Decorative Work. 



to the picot of middle top ring of star, 6 double. Make another ring and so 
continue all the way across. 

Third Bow. — Make a ring of 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double; turn the work 
and make a connecting scallop of 6 double, join to picot of first ring of last 
row, 6 double; turn the work and make a ring like the first, joining it to 
the first by the picot in the middle. Make another ring, leaving no thre£vd 
between the two, then make another cormecting link, and so proceed all the 
way across. 

Fourth Sow. — Make a ring of 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double, fastening to 
tlie picot joining the two rings of previous row; turn the work, and make a 
connecting scallop of 6 doul)le, 1 picot, 6 double; turu the work again and 
make another ring like the first, fastening it in the same place that the first 
one was fastened in. Now make another connecting scallop, and so proceed, 
as shown in the illustration. 

Remember that the rings are always worked with one thread, and the 
connecting scallops with two; and that the work must always be turned 
when changing from a ring to a scallop. 

TATTED EOSETTE. (Fig. 10.) 

This rosette is pretty for edgings, collars, insertions and many other 
uses, but it is especially pretty for filling in between larger wheels when 
making tidies. 

It is worked with two threads as follows: 
Work a center ring with one thread, mak- 
ing 2 double, 1 picot, alternately until you 
have twelve picots, then make 3 double, 1 
picot, 1 double, and close in a ring. Tie 
the threads together and cut them off. 
Now make 10 double, join to a picot of 
the center ring, 10 double, close in a ring; 
turn the work and with both threads work 
a scallop of 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 
picot, 2' double, 1 picot, 2 double; turn the 
work again, make another ring like the 
Fig. 10. first joined to the center ring, and repeat 

all the way around. After working the last ring, join the thread to the first 
ring, tie securely, and cut it ofi'. 

If you wish these rosettes for the yoke of a dress, fit them over a paper 
pattern. Join them to each other by the center picot of the connecting scal- 
lops. Fill in the spaces between the rosettes with Josephine knots. 

The Josephine knot consists of a series of single or half stitches, formed 
of the first half of the double knot. As many of these stitclies are used for a 
knot as are needed for the space to be filled in. The row of rosettes nearest 




Tatting. 



the neck must be made a little smaller than the others. This is done by 
making the center ring with less ijicots. To fit around the armholes and 
shoulders half rosettes must be made. 

TATTED SQUARE. (Fig. 11.) 

This square is very pretty lor toilet cushions, tidies, and the ends of 
■scarfs, and is easily put together. Begin it in the middle with one thread; 
worlv 6 double, * 1 pioot, 3 double, and repeat from the star until you have 
seven picots each separated by 3 double, 6 double, close in a ring. Work 
three more of these rings, leaving no thread between them, and without 
joining the picots; then tie the threads and cut them off. 

You must next work four 
more of these four-leaved fig- 
ures, and join them to the 
first one as shown in the il- 
lustration; that is, join the 
middle picot of one of them 
to the inner picots of two 
rings of the first figure, thus 
joining three picots together. 
When the last of the four- 
leaved figures have been 
joined to the center, work one 
round with two shuttles as 
follows : 

Begin by making a ring of 6 
double, 1 picot, 3 double, 1 
picot, 3 double, 1 picot, 3 
Fig. 11. double, join to the middle 

picot of a ring in one of the four-leaved figures, 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double, 
1 picot, 3 double, 1 picot, 6 double, close in a ring. Now turn the work 
■downward and with two threads work a connecting scallop of 3 double, 7 
picots separated by 3 dou))le, 3 double; turn the work again and make an- 
other ring which must be joined between two of the rings of the four-leaved 
figure, joining three picots together. Now make another scallop with two 
threads, theu another ring which must l)e joined to the middle picot of the 
next ring of the four-leaved figure, then make another ring leaving no thread 
between the two, and join it to the middle picot of the first ring of the ue.xt 
figure, and so proceed all the way round the square. 

TATTED HANDKERCHIEF BORDER. (Fig. 12.) 

The rosettes for tliis handkerchief border are worked with one threxid, 
according to the following directions: Work a ring of 2 double, 9 picots each 
separated by 3 double, and 1 double; close in a ring, then lasten the thread in 




376 



Home Decorative Work. 



the nearest picot, leave one-tenth of an inch of threatl, and begin a ring as 
follows: Make 4 double, then 5 picots separated by 3 double, 4 double, 
close the ring. Leave the thread one-tenth of an inch in length, then join to 
the next picot of the center ring; leave the thread the same length, and 
make another ring, joining it by the first picot to the fifth picot of first ring 
made. So proceed all the way round, then tie the threads and cut them otf. 




Fig. 12. 

For the next round, which finishes the rosette, begin by working 7 
double, join to the middle picot of one of the rings of previous round, 7 
double, close in a ring. Turn the work, leave one-fifth of an inch of the 
thread, and work a ring of 4 double, 1 picot, 5 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 
picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 5 double, 1 picot, 4 double; close in a ring. This 
ring comes on the outside row of the rosette. Turn the work, leave one- 
fifth of an inch of thread, and make 8 double, join to the next picot of the 
same ring to which the first ring was joined, 8 double, close in a ring. It 
will be seen that the next to the outside row of rings consists of rings of two- 
sizes; the smaller fastened to the middle picot of the ring of ])revious row, 
and the larger iastened to the next picot. After making this last ring de- 



Tatting. 



377 



scribed, make another for the outside row, and then one of the small rings, 
and so continue all the way round. The beauty of the work lies in having 
the spaces of thread between rings, and the picots, all of the same length * 
Join the rosettes as you work them, as indicated in the illustration. By 
counting the rings, j^ou will have no trouble about it. 

The inner edge of the border is worked with two threaas. Begin with 
one thread by making 4 double, 1 picot a fifth of an inch long, 2 double, 5 
short picots each separated by 2 double, 1 long picot, 4 double, close the 




Fig. 12. 
ring. Turn the work, and witla both threads work a connecting scallop ot 
3 double, 3 picots each separated by 3 double, 3 double. Make another 
ring like the first, joining it to the first by the long picots. Join the con- 
necting scallops to the rosettes as you work, by the middle picot, as shown 
in the illustration. At the corners make two smaller rings joined by a very 
long connecting scallop. Fill the open spaces with Josephine knots, or any 
small figure preferred. A row of small rings worked around the connecting 
scallop, and fastened to the rosettes, is very pretty. 

child'.s collar. (Fig. 13.) 
This pretty collar consists of three rows of rosettes of different sizes. 
The largest ones are made as follows: Begin by making 1 double, then 1 



378 



Home Decorative Work. 



pioot and 2 double mitil you have fourteen picots. Make one double after 
the fourteenth picot, and close the ring. Tie the threads and cut them off. 
The rest of the rosette is worked in one round, like insertion, but with un- 
equal sides. Begin by making 6 double, fasten to a loop of the center ring, 
6 double, close in a ring. Turn the work upside down, leave the thread a 
fifth of an inch long, then work one of the large outside rings, which consists 
of 4 double, then 6 picots with 2 double between them, then 4 double. The 

first and sixth picots must be 
a fifth of an inch l*ng before 
the ring is closed, or the ro- 
sette, when finished, will not 
lay flat. The other four 
picots should be an eighth of 
an inch long. After making 
the large ring, turn the work 
again, leave the same length 
of thread as before, and make 
another of the small ones 
which must be fastened to the 
middle ring. The rosettes 
must be fastened together 
when making the large rings, 
as shown in the illustration, 
joining them by the middle 
picot of two of the rings. 
The middle row of rosettes is 
worked like the first, but 
smaller. The center ring has 
twelve picots instead of four- 
teen, and there are but twelve 
The last row has nine picots in the center ring, and nine 




Fig. 14, 



rings around it 
rings around it. 

The open spaces between the wheels are filled in with four-leaved figures 
worked as follows: Make 8 double, then a picot fully half an inch in length, 
8 double, close in a ring. Make three more of these rings, all close to- 
gether, then tie the threads and cut them off. Fasten these figures in place 
as indicated in the illustration, using a needle and thread. 

Begin this collar by making the rosettes to go around the neck. If it 
does not lie smooth over the shoulders, join the rosettes of the lower row by 
one ring, instead of t\\o. 

VANDYKE COLLAR. (Fig. 14.) 

Figure 14 shows one point of a tatted Vandyke collar which is far hand- 



Tatting. 379 

somer than ranch of the point lace we see. It is made in fine linen thread 
when nsed simply as a collar or as trimming for a cotton diess. It is lovely 
for trimming wool dresses, and should be made of black silk or of silk to 
match the dress goods. Very pretty trimming is made of black silk with 
centers of old gold silk. It is very easily made being composed of plain 
rosettes, five m each point. It is worked with two threads. 

With one thread work a ring beginning and ending with 2 double, and 
containing ten picots each separated by 2 double. Close the ring and turn 
the work downward, then with both threads work a connecting scallop con- 
sisting of 2 double, 7 picots each separated by 2 double, 2 double. Turn the 
work again, and make another ring like the first one, joining the fourth, and 
fifth loops of this ring to the sixth and seventh loops of the last ring made. 
Now make another connecting scallop, and so continue until there are four 
rings and four scallops. Join the fourth ring to the first one, fasten the 
thread firmly where the last scallop joins the first one, then break it off". 
Around this little rosette work a row of rings, using but one thread. Each 
of these rings consist of 2 double, 7 picots each separated by 1 double, 2 
double. Join the rings to each other by the second loop of each, and at the 
close of each ring join to a jiicot in one of the scallops of the rosette. There 
are sixteen of these little rings, and they are fastened in alternate picots of 
the foundation scallops, and at each corner wliere the scallops and rings are 
joined. The four rosettes forming the upper part of the point are joined to 
one another b}' the middle picot of two rings on each rosette, but the fifth 
rosette is fastened by ])ut one picot on two rings. By counting the rings in 
the illustration you will see just where to fasten the rosettes together. 
When the points are joined together to form the collar, there are six rings 
free on the upper side of each of the top row of rosettes 

The open place between the four rosettes in each point is filled by a four- 
leaved figure made as follows: 4 double, 1 picot, 3 double, join to the mid- 
dle loop of a ring in the ujiper rosette next to the upper joining, 3 double, 1 
picot, 3 double, join to opposite rosette, 3 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close in 
a ring. Join the other three rings in the same way, then tie the threads and 
cut them off. 



Tavi "01. 



PAi:^TII^^G. 

To Begin Landscape "Work. 

/T is not our aim to afltbrd much instruction to advanced students in art 
work, or to those who can have the benefit of personal instruction from 
experienced teachers. Lovers of decorative aii) may find now and then 

a new idea, perhaps merely a suggestion, but the bulk of the instructioa 
will be for beginners, for those who have the desire to learn, but not the op- 
portunity or means to procure lessons or advice from good teachers. Conse- 
quently our directions must be as plain and clear as possible; as free from 
■unnecessary art terms and technicalities as your color-box will be fi:om 
superfluous materials. 

Your outfit will be a simj)le one and comparatively inexpensive. 
Always bear in mind that a good artist uses as few colors as possible; and 
that you will be less hampered and confused, and do better work, if you 
learn to know and handle a few colors well, than if you buy every new color 
you see or hear of, most of which will prove utterly valueless. 

You may place in your box white, light cadmium, cadmium orange,, 
yellow ochre, permanent blue, light red, burnt sienna, burnt umber and 
ivory black. These will be suflicient for landscape work; if you take up 
flower painting it will be easy to add others. Keep a good supply of brushes, 
and keep them in good order. Never expect to do good work with brushes 
that are nearly worn out, or with those that are hardened and filled with 
paint. Three or four bristle brushes, two thick ones, sky brushes as you 
■will come to think of them, about one-half inch wide, and one or two a little 
■wider, but very thin. These are called Landseer brushes and are very use- 
ful for softening the edges of clouds or mountains and in some kinds of 
foliage. Sable brushes, Nos. 5 to 9, will be found most convenient. AVith 
these, a palette, palette knife, bottle of turpentine, and one of boiled linseed 
oil, a good substantial working-easel, and a generous supply of paint rags, 
you are ready for your first lesson. 

To begin with, you might choose the bright picture, "A Summer After- 
noon in the Connecticut Valley," which is of convenient size for a beginner,, 
not so small as to cramp the Avork, nor yet so large that you will tire of it. 
The tvarm blue sky and distant mountains, the silvery stream sparkling in 
tht> sunlight, its nearer margin marked by a low, sandy shore, maKe a soft 

380 



Painting. 381 

and deligtitfully harmonious background for the dark-hued evergreens of the 
middle distance and the tree-crowned rocky bluff in the foreground. 

Have your canvas mounted on a stretcher the size of the study, which is 
twenty-two inches high by fourteen wide. Divide the study into squares, two 
inches each way, by winding threads around it, and mark, with pencil, the 
same number of squares on your canvas. Draw in the outlines very care- 
fully with pencil, and when you are sure they are correct go over them with 
burnt sienna and turpentine. 

Now oil your palette thoroughly, and while your sketch is drying pr^ 
ceed to mix your colors. Set the palette with the following colors in their 
order, beginning with white, which place on the upper side of the palette 
near the thumb-hole; then comes light cadmium, yellow ochre, permanent 
b'.ue, light red, burnt sienna, burnt umber and black, in the order named. 

Thin all the white paint with a little oil, and put about one-third of it 
aside. To the remainder, add a very little light cadmium and a trifle of 
black. Be very careful about using black in sky tints; use just enough to 
give quality to the tint, being careful not to make it muddy. This forms 
tint No. 1. Set aside about one-third of this and keep adding the same 
colors, until you have a shade darker. Divide this into two equal parts, re- 
serving half for No. 2, while you still add more of the same color for No. 3. 
To the white you laid aside, add a little yellow ochre, light red and ivory 
black; this will be tint No. 4, and by adding still more light red and black 
you have No. 5. These are all the tints you will need for the sky ; so you 
had better use them while the numbers are fresh in your memory, and you 
will not become confused with so many tints as if you waited to mix more. 

The clouds cover nearly all of the lower half of the sky; so you will 
begin where the blue sky appears. "With your large sky brush, and tint 
No. 1 go across the line of the clouds with firm, crisp touches, not spreading 
the paint so much that the canvas will show through, nor yet leaving it in 
ridges. This tint should cover nearly a third of the sky. Be careful not to 
leave the upper edge in a straight, hard line, but round it up in the center, 
and leave the edges rough, so that when you work above it with No. 2, you 
will have a softly blended sky instead of a distinct line. Work above this 
with tint No. 2 until you have nearly covered the canvas, and finish with 
No. 3. 

If you take pains in laying on the paint, your sky will show smooth, 
clean strokes of the brush, and you will need no further blending; but if 
there are ridges left in the paint, smooth them down with a clean brush. 
With tint No. 4 work over the edges and highest lights of the clouds, shad- 
ing them in with No. 5, with now and then a touch of blue. Soften the 
edges, using a clean brush ; do not try to blend it too smoothly, or you will 
produce a woolly effect, destroying the crispness and freshness of your work. 

To what is left of tint No. 1, add a little light red, permanent blue and 



382 Home Decorative Work. 

black, and the same to No. 2, making tints Nos. 6 and 7, and to No. 3 a 
trifle of black for No. 8. With No. 6 fill in the outlines of the farthest 
mountains, softening the edges into the sky; use No. 7 for the nearer hills, 
making the edges a little more distinct. For the river use No. 8, using still 
more black and blue in the shadow of the mountain. 

For the low, sandy beach, add yellow ochre and black to No. 4, dotting 
in the shadings and stones with burnt umber. Fill in the outline of the 
evergreens with burnt umber, without any attempt at shading. The bluff 
i|^ the foreground you can lay in with tint No. 4, deepened by a little yel- 
low ochre and burnt umber, the shadows with burnt* umber and black. 
The grasses and trees above the bluff should have an undercoat of dark 
green, which you will make of yellow ochre and black. This brings us ta 
the end of the " laying in, " or "dead-coloring," as it is sometimes called. 
Put your work carefully away out of the dust, and wait till it is thoroughly 
dry before you attempt to do ^ny more. By this time you have gained sa 
much of an idea of copying that you can finish your picture alone, as well as 
with written instruction. 

Kensington Painting. 

This is a comparatively new and a very popular style of decorative 
painting, an adaptation of oil painting to the surface of velvet or cloth in a 
peculiar manner, the result being in appearance not unlike embroidery done 
in the famous Kensington stitch. The beginner will succeed best with 
flowers treated naturally, that is in drawing and coloring, closely imitating 
the growing plant. If possible, study the natural flowers. 

The materials required are tube colors, a palette, a small palette knife, 
a few sable brushes, Nos. 4 and 6, a bottle of turpentine, and a piece of cloth 
to wipe the brushes. 

Silk velvet is the most suitable material for this work, but a very good 
quality of velveteen will answer the purjiose. Select a color to form a good 
background, such as dark maroon, olive or terra cotta. The design should 
be stamped on the material, but be careful to ask for stamping to be used in 
Kensington painting, not embroidery. The French dry stamping is well 
adapted to the purpose. When stamped, stitch the material tightly on an 
embroidery frame, or tack it to a board. 

Some artists do not favor thinning the color at all, but mix it with 
sugar of lead or megilp, to facilitate drying and to prevent the oil from 
spreading. Others mix ordinary oil paints or enamel colors with a very 
little tui-pentine or mastic varnish till reduced to the consistency of butter. 
Take the colors on the palette knife and scrape them to the edge of the 
palette ; then take an ordinary brass or steel pen, with broad shoulders, and 
scrape up a small quantity of the paint. Stick the point of the pen firmly 
into the outline, turn it sharply oyer, and paint will be left on the design. 



Painting. 385 

In this way outline the whole flower, or whatever the design may be, then 
wipe the pen clean, and stroke the rim of paint down closely and evenly. 
This will produce a series of lines each resembling a crewel stitch. For the 
veins of leaves and flowers, the paints are merely laid on finely with the pen, 
not stroked down. For the centers of daisies, sunflowers, etc. , put the paint 
on in one thick lump and punch with the point of a coarse pin till the de- 
sired effect is obtained. Brilliant effects are easily obtained by using gold 
and silver with bright colors. 

When painting upon delicate shades of satin, the board should be cov- 
ered with canton flannel, and magnesia rubbed over it, and then the satin 
tacked tightly over all; mix the paints ready for use, and place them on a 
blotting paper to absorb the oil. Eemember that all strokes in Kensington 
painting should be made in the same directions that stitches would be taken 
if the design were being embroidered; the object is to blend the shades or 
colors of the paint, and at the same time to give the surface the stitchy ap- 
pearance resembling embroidery. 

A full outfit for Kensington painting consists of a Japauned tin box, con- 
taining thirty tubes of colors, brushes, palette, pens, and specimens of work. 
A pen is manufactured purposely for the work, which may be bought for 
from ten to twenty-five cents, but an ordinary wide steel pen is just as good. 

There is no way of ornamenting table scarfs, lambrequins, curtains, etc., 
which gives a more pleasing result for the time and material used than Ken- 
sington painting. If one is at all apt, it requires little practice to do a piece 
of painting very nicely; and while work of this kind is very expensive if it 
must be purchased, the material costs but little. 

Flo-wer Painting-. 

COLORS. 

When selecting colors for flower painting it is best to confine the list to a 
few standard colors, instead of using everything one hears of, for some of 
them are not reliable, and will fade or turn dark. Many people use the 
chromes in yellow, but the cadmiums are better; of these, get Nos. 1, 2 and 
3. In addition to these get yellow ochre, Naples yellow, jaune brilliant, 
and Indian yellow, which is especially useful in painting yellow roses. In 
reds, crimson lake, madder lake, Chinese vermilion and light red will be 
needed. Some use geranium lake also, but though it is beautiful at first it 
soon fades to almost white. Sometimes it can be used as an undercoat and 
covered with, other reds, which does very well ; but even then crimson lake 
is preferable mixed with a little vermilion, which gives it a lovely shade. 
Crimson lake is not considered reliable, but will answer for many things, 
though it may fade in time. Madder lake has so little body and dries sa 
slowly that few have patience to use it, but the crimson lake glazed ^\ith 
madder works well. Madder does very well to mix with other colors also. 



384 Home Decorative Work. 

For blues all that will be needed are cobalt, permanent and Antwerp. 
Prussian blue is used a great deal, though not by the most careful artists, 
lor it is not a clear, good color. For the other colors choose ivory black, 
burnt sienna, light zinnober green, emerald green, white, and either Van- 
dyke or bone brown. Do not use chrome green ; it is too crude. There is 
nothing in nature of that color. Devoe's or Abbott's paints are the best to 
buy for this work. 

BRUSHES AND CANVAS. 

For brushes, get bristles from No. 1 to No. 12, and sables Nos. 2, 5, 8. 
The bristles should be thin, flat, and not too long, as they work so much 
better than where they are thick, stiff, and harsh. The sables must have 
good points. There is a great deal in having a good supply of brushes, and 
in taking good care of them. Wash them out with warm soapsuds, rinse in 
cold water, and dry. Occasionally they may be left in kerosene over night, 
if they are used every day, but they must not stand in it too long. They 
should not l)e cleaned with turpentine unless washed at once, for it will 
make them stiff anel hard, and soon spoil them. Do not use a blender; it 
gives the work a flat, chromo-like look. The brush marks are one of the 
special beauties of oil painting, and show the skill of the artist. 

Canvas is the best material to use, even if of a cheap grade. The paint 
works much better on it than on academy board, as the surface of the latter 
is so hard that the paints cannot be softened together, and it will look harsh 
and dauby in spite of the greatest care. The sketching canvas is quite wide 
and can be bought at from fifty to seventy-five cents a yard. There are sev- 
eral grades of it. The thin kind is not so good as that which is heavy and 
coarse. For practice, the cheaper grades do just as well as the more expen- 
sive. Holland is very nice for flower painting; the different shades may be 
used, and no background put in. The light drab is pretty for a great many 
flowers of different colors. Cut a piece the size desired, fasten it to the 
drawing board by means of thumb-tacks, and you will be ready to sketch 
your design. 

SKETCHING OUTLINES. 

Good drawing is always essential to good work. It is not impossible to 
paint, in a limited way, if one cannot draw readily; but the most natural 
looking flowers are painted by those who can sketch them at sight. In 
copying a picture of flowers, there are many little details put in with the 
brush only by the aid of the eye, even after the outlines have been drawn. 
There are several methods in common use for transferring the outlines to 
canvas. Impiession paper is probably the best of these, or the design may 
be stamped upon the canvas. Many people do not care to be proficient in 
flower painting, but only wish to learn to do a little for pleasure, and think 
they cannot spend time to learn to draw. For these, there must be some 



Painting. 385 

way of transferring the designs. For nearly all kinds of fabrics stamping is 
the general way. 

In using impression paper, lay it on the Holland, then put the pattern 
on, and with a hard point go lightly over the lines, and on the Holland there 
will be a good drawing ready for painting. For those who draw, the nicest 
way is to use a fine-pointed sable brush, and the same color as each part of 
the design is to be, and trace the outlines. Begin by measuring from the 
top of the canvas down to the first flower, and from the sides each way. and 
so on. It is always wise to get the principal points by measuring, then fill 
in all the rest by the eye. Care must be taken to get the outlines correct, 
for the most brilliant coloring and nicest finish will not atone for bad 
drawing. 

SETTING THE PALETTE. 

Artists differ somewhat in regard to this; some have a set rule, others 
put the colors on without any regard to system or method. The palette 
should be cleaned every time it is used, and there will be no trouble from 
dry bits of paint, or paint that is half dry or too sticky to use, yet not bad 
enough to be thrown away. Take out enough for the day's use, and ar- 
range them in this wise: white, first; then the different shades of yellow; 
then reds, blues, greens, browns, and black in their order. Put them an 
inch or so from the edge of the palette, leavmg a little space between. They 
must be kept as clean as possible, mixing only what is needed in the center 
of the palette. When through work, clean the center all off; take up each 
little pile of paint that is clean, and put it on the edge of the palette where 
there has been none, and it will keep fresh for the next day's work; but if 
they are not to be used the next day, put them back in the tubes, put on 
the caps and they will be all right for next time. If there is more than can 
be easily crowded into the tube, wrap it in a piece of tinfoil and it will keep 
fresh a long time. Keep the tinfoil that conies around tol)acco and j'east 
cakes for the purpose. Some amateurs waste more paint than they use, by 
taking out too much, and not caring for it properly. Do not take colors on 
the palette which will not he wanted for immediate use. 

MIXING COLORS. * 

There are three primary colors, red, blue and yellow, so called because 
they cannot be produced by mixing others. They are the foundation of all 
others, except white, which is not properly a color. By mixing red and yel- 
low we get an orange. From blue and yellow we derive green, and red and 
blue produce purple. These three colors are called secondary, and by again 
mixing these, we can make almost any shade or tint we please, if we add 
white. Some artists will never use the mixed paints, but it is better and 
less trouble to use the pigments as they are prepared by the manufacturer 
than to mix them all ourselves; not that we are to use the colors just as they 
come from the tube, but that a certain number of colors and a knowledge of 
25 



386 Home Decorative Work. 

how to use them is better thau to have a great number. The first mistake a 
beginner generally makes in colors is in getting them too bright or crude. 
For instance, blue and yellow make green, but such a bright green that 
there is nothing like it in nature. Add a little black, a little white, and 
perhaps a little red or brown, and the result is far more satisfactory. 

These colors added to the blue and yellow, give what artists term 
' ' quality, ' ' and this expresses exactly the difference between the work of 
those who understand the use of color and those who do not; and this "qual- 
ity " is always obtained by mixing qualifying colors with the crude combi- 
nations already mentioned. A purple made of red and blue is too bright to 
use for any flower that ever bloomed ; but add a little black and wliite, and 
it will tone down from that crude look to a softer tone. For some flowers, 
of course, colors are used much brighter than for others; for instance, there 
are red poppies of a very vivid color with shadings that make them soft and 
pretty. Eed is the strongest color we have, and yellow the most useful, as 
it forms a part of nearly all combinations. The use of yellow gives warmth 
to coloring and blue gives coolness or shade. In the greens of foliage, if a 
rich, sunny green is wanted, use more of the yellow, and a little red; if a 
blue-green is desired, use more of the blue and brown or burnt sienna, al- 
Avays adding more or less of black and white. 

In flower painting, pink is a very troublesome color; it is often too cold 
and purple in tone. Madder lake and white makes a jn-etty pink, but 
unless a very little yellow is added, it has a crude look. Use a little jaune 
brilliant or a little Naples yellow. Just a touch of vermilion warms up a 
pink wonderfully, but do not use too much of any of these colors. A white 
flower is considered by some the hardest flower to paint. It is because they 
think the white paint should give the right color; but if they should take a 
white flower and put it beside a piece of white paper they would see a great 
diflerence. The flower has a yellow tone, and if arranged so that the light 
has an influence on it, there will be grey shades in it. To have it right, it 
should be painted grey, then the high lights and shatlows should be painted 
in. A little jaune brilliant or some shade of yellow must be put with the 
white to give it the warm look it should have. There are a number of com- 
binations that make a grey. Eed, blue and yellow together produce a grey, 
and by using the colors in diffeient pi-oportions, with black and white, a 
great many shades may be obtained. Black and white alone should not be 
used, but others added to qualify the tint. By jiractice, one soon learns 
how to mix colors. Some have a very good eye for color, and can tell at a 
glance what is required to produce certain shades; while for others it takes 
much mixing, and sometimes considerable paint before the right shades are 
found. 

BACKGROUNDS FOR FI-0\VER PIECES. 

There is more in painting the backgrounds of flower pieces thau one 



Painting. 387 

would suppose at first thought, aucl the effect of the whole picture depends 
very much upon the tment of this part. It should not be too promi- 

nent a feature, and it s Id be painted so as not to attract the eye before 
the rest of the picture. The objects in a picture are its chief attraction, and 
the background must be subservient to them. One cannot easily give gen- 
eral directions as to the best colors for a background, that is, those which 
will harmonize with the flowers and not be too prominent. That must be 
learned by practice. One with a good eye for color will soon learn how to 
combine them. Many different shades of grey will harmonize with all 
bright colors, and will give the atmospheric effect of distance, which is so 
desirable in many backgrounds. 

If a drapery background is desired, it will reqiiire a different treatment. 
In using a drapery as background, care must be taken not to have it too 
prominent. A Ijackground, to be artistic, should not be of one even, flat 
tone, but brushed in such a way as to show light and shade and give the ef- 
fect of distance. If cowslips are to be painted the Ijackground might be 
painted in white, Antwerp blue, yellow ochre, raw umber and black. Begin 
with the upper left hand corner. Mix a little of the colors with considerable 
white, using the brush, and do not mix them too much. To make a smooth, 
even color, blend them together rather loosely, and put them on, fiUmg the 
brush well, and using an uneven stroke in different directions; and as you 
work down on the canvas, dip your brush in the darker colors and then in 
that already mixed to make it a little darker, and brush it together on the 
foundation. It must not be left too spotted, nor must it be brushed too 
much, or it will not have the right effect. 

A blue-grey background harmonizes with all j'ellow flowers, and there 
are also other colors that harmonize well with them ; for instance, a reddish 
brown, or a brown with a green tint; an olive green is pretty, and a very 
deep, dull blue, or a deep, dark red ai:.e in harmony with yellows. Light 
flowers are jirettier on dark backgrounds, and dark flowers on light ones. 
Do not put bright flowers and bright backgrounds together. Use more of 
the dark colors wliere the shadows are cast by the flowers, and that will tend 
to throw them out, and add much to the effect of the picture. Work down 
to the flowers, and then begin on them before the background dries, in order 
to soften the edges of the colors together. 

FLOAVERS ON DIFFERENT FABRICS. 

A beautiful little wall banner can be made of olive satin with scarlet 
poppies painted on it, and a baud of old gold plush at the top and bottom. 
It should be finished with silk or plush ornaments. To paint on the satin, 
tack it smoothly to a drawing board with thumb-tacks at each corner; stamp 
or draw the design on tlie satin with white paint thinned with turpentine; 
then thin all the colors witli turpentine, and paint just as you would on any 
other material. The oil will not trouble you about spreading, if rightly 



388 Home Decorative Work. 

mixed with turpentine. Do not get it too tliin or tlie turpentine will spread 
and there will be no body to the colors. The article must not be made up 
until the paint is fully dry. The spray of poppies will also look well on 
bolting cloth, and can be used for a cushion cover or a perfumery bag. 
Large perfumery bags are very popular made of surah silk, satin or bolting 
doth over silk or satin. To paint on the bolting cloth, put blotting paper 
under it when you tack it t« the drawing board. The design must be 
sketched with paint, using the color that is to be used in each part of the 
work. A hard lead pencil must be used if you trace the design. The paints 
should be thinner than for satin, so that they will act like a dye and only 
color the material, without leaving any body of paint on it. The lights are 
left without any paint, or a very delicate tint may be used, as the transpar- 
ent effect is spoiled if too much paint is used, and it will look dauby. This 
work is rather more difficult than painting on satin. 

In painting on plush, much turpentine must not be used. In the high 
lights, a great deal of paint is required. Frequently it must be gone over 
several times, in order to cover the pile of the plush. Less paint is used in 
the shadows as the nap of the plush helps in shading, and a little turpentine 
can be used to make the colors work better. Work in the same way when 
painting on felt, using considerable paint and thinning it a little with tur- 
pentine. 

For painting on white moleskin velvet, more turpentine must be used, 
as this work is more like dyeing the pile of the velvet than painting it, and 
painting on scrim is the same— simply dyeing the fabric, not leaving any 
paint to look dauby. Scrim is one of the most effective materials for dra- 
peries. A table scarf of scrim decorated with double pink roses is very 
beautiful. The linen scrim costs forty cents a yard, but the cotton that is 
only twelve and a half cents is just as good, and across the room you cannot 
distinguish them apart. For painting the roses mentioned, use madder lake, 
white, jaune brilliant or some light shade of yellow, leaving the lights with- 
out any paint, as directed in regard to the bolting cloth, and thinning the 
colors with turpentine. 

GENERAL HINTS ON FLOWER PAINTING. 

In painting flowers it is a good idea to first draw the outlines of the de- 
sign with a sharply-jwinted charcoal or lead pencil, then secure them with a 
little burnt sienna and turpentine, using a fiat-pointed sable brush for the 
purpose. The background should be painted first, and allowed to become 
thoroughly dry before the flowers are attempted. When a painting is fin- 
ished, it is sometimes varnished with Soehner's French retouching varnish, 
to bring out the colors. 

The fbllowiug suggestions are given by a well known artist for the se- 
lection of colors for a few of the most common subjects used in flower paint- 
ing. These will be found of great use to the beginner. In painting Jacque- 



Painting. 389 

minot roses, it is a good plan to paint the green leaves first. For these mix 
white, Antwerp bine, light cadmium, vermilion and ivory black, using 
burnt sienna for the shadows. Use little of the ivory and vermilion. For 
the blossoms use madder lake, silver white, light red, and a little permanent 
blue; qualify with ivory black, and use burnt sienna for the shadows. 
Light cadmium, white, and a little ivory black should be used for the yel- 
low touches in the center, and burnt sienna is also used here for the shad- 
ows. 

Flowers of a brilliant yellow, such as the golden-rod and asters, should 
not be attempted by the beginner in water colors. They are difiicult to do 
well but are more easily done in oils. Never attempt to paint them ou a 
white background. If you do not care to try painting a background, use a 
warm gray or a brown tinted paper. Study the golden-rod carefully before 
attempting to paint it, and do not think that when you have learned to 
fairly represent the margin of the bunch you can piit on a little yellow paint 
and have a spray of the magnificent golden-rod. A bunch of golden-rod is 
composed of many sprays, each of which is a bunch of tiny flowers connected 
with the larger stalk by fine green stems. Every characteristic of the flower 
must be shown, or you will be guilty of executing another of the daubs that 
must be labeled in order to be recognized as the golden-rod. The shades 
and shadows in this flower must be quite pronounced, or the whole, when 
finished will have a faded look. You will need on your palette. Hooker's 
green, Indian yellow, Prussian blue, and light cadmium. Burnt sienna will 
be needed for the shadows but do not use it too freely. Gamboge will also 
be found useful. 

A very effective background for a study of sweet peas would be a pale 
amber yellow at the top of the canvas shading into a deeper grayish yellow, 
at the bottom having a large part of the background of the darker tone. For 
this background, yellow ochre, white, raw umber, a little light red and a 
touch of ivory black will be needed. The background showing behind the 
flowers should be darker than all the rest. Use less white and yelloAv ochre 
for this, and add a little burnt sienna. Two colors of sweet peas, the white 
with pale yellow petals, and purple with pink petals should be chosen. For 
the white petals mix yellow ochre, white, permanent blue, and a touch of 
ivory black until you have a very delicate shade of gray. Use this for 
the petals, adding the high lights and deeper shadows afterward. The .shad- 
ows should be put in first, and for this a little ivory black and Imrut sienna 
will be needed. For the high lights use white, a little light cadmium, and 
the least touch of ivory black to prevent crudeness. The yellow petals are 
painted with white, light cadmium, and a touch of raw umber, with ivory 
black and a little Indian yellow in the shadows. For the purple petals use 
white, madder lake, permanent blue and a little cobalt. The pink petals 
are painted with madder lake, white, a little yellow ochre and a touch of 



390 Home Decorative Work. 

raw umber, except the high lights where the raw umber and yellow ochre 
are omitted, and a little light cadmium substituted. 

When mixing the colors, do not make the mistake of using the same 
shade of green for leaves, stems and the tendrils. The latter are very delicate 
in color, and are well represented with light cadmium, white, and a very 
little ivory black and vermilion. Remember that even these have their 
shadows, which must be faithfully reproduced or the work will be unsatisfac- 
tory. Make the stems of a warm, delicate green, shaded lightly with a 
brown green. Do not try to improve on Nature's work in any respect. 
Sweet peas could not be painted more beautiful than Nature has painted 
them. 

The deep red tulips that are to be found in nearly all old-fashioned gar- 
dens are easily painted, and make A^ery attractive design.s. They require 
white, yellow ochre, light red, madder lake, and a touch of ivory b'a^k. 
Poppy oil mixed with Siccatif de Courtray in the proportion of one drop of 
the latter to five of the former, is a good medium to use with these colors. 
Paint the tulips with this, putting in the details later. Add raw umber in 
the deeper shadows and vermilion in the lights. 

Lustra Painting. 

Lustra, or bronze painting, at one time commanded a foremost place in 
art. It differs from oil or Kensington painting in its bronze effect. The 
rapidity and ease with which a large piece of work may be produced is one 
of its greatest charms. It can be learned without a teacher, especially if one 
xinderstands painting in water or oil. The metallic colors produce an effect 
not unlike rich applique. They are very brilliant, and will retain their 
iridescence as long as the material to which they are applied will last. 

Lustra paints look better on fine velveteen or short nap velvet than on 
plush, unless the depressed plush is used. Satin, sateen, linen, Roman 
sheeting, wood, terra cotta, paper, and all sorts of wicker work look well 
l)ainted with lustra bronzes. Rich, deep shades should be chosen; for in- 
stance, dark olive, green, maroon, brown, crimson and black are all well 
adapted to the purpose. White and delicately-tinted fabrics can be em- 
ployed, but are not so satisfactory as the darker colors. Metals may be 
used, and in short so may almost everything in the house , but the too com- 
mon use of it spoils the effect. 

The colors are all prepared from metal, and come iu powders put up in 
liottles. They are mixed by the worker with the medium or liquid pre- 
pared for the purpose and found in the box with the set of colors. Tliey 
may be Ijought singly or in boxes. All dealers in art materials sell them; 
some under the name of l)ronzes. There are bronzes which are prepared es- 
pecially for use on paper, and in connection Avith Avater colors. 

The requisites for lustra painting are a smooth board, tweh-e by twenty- 



Painting. 391 

four inches, a porcelain slab with round, saucer-like holes, several bristle 
and two sable or camel's hair brushes, bronze colors, a bottle of medium and 
a bottle of turpentine. Hard brushes are required for rough or grained 
materials. Flat sable brushes, Nos. 5 and 11, are most used for soft 
Tvork. 

The following list of colors gives all the shades that are necessary for 
the most varied designs, especially for beginners, as it is easier to work with 
a simple palette: silver, green gold, bright gold, deep gold, copper, deep 
copper,* crimson, steel blue, purple, deep violet, green black, bright green, 
bright blue, firelight, silver, sparkling gold, sparkling silver, carmine and 
lemon. It is less perplexing to have few colors, and as experience is gained 
it will be seen that tints can be composed by the combination of colors to 
suit every need. The several tints are called keys: thus the key of yellow 
includes all shades from pale gold to brown; the key of white to black, has 
everything from sparkling silver to black. 

China palettes having little wells in which to mix the paint are very con- 
venient, and not very expensive. The bronzes do not need rubbing down 
with a palette knife; it is sufficient to mix them with the medium to the re- 
<iuired consistency with a brush. While painting, stir them with the brush 
when filling it, as they are so heavy that they sink to the bottom of the sau- 
cers. If this precaution is forgotten, a level coating of color cannot be ob- 
tained. Some colors being heavier than others especially require this treat- 
ment, and more medium must be added to them from time to time as the 
mixture is gradually used up; otherwise the layer of color will not be of uni- 
foiTu strength, for the solution will be thicker at the close of the work than at 
the commencement. If medium is used in excess, a thin appearance will be 
the result. The main point is to cover the ground with as level a coating of 
*olor as possible. The following proportion is about right: To as much 
bronze as will cover a three-cent piece add half a teaspoonful of medium, 
the mixture to be thoroughly stirred with the brush. No turpentine is em- 
ployed with the medium in grounding, unless the mixture has become too 
thick, in which case a few drops may be added to cause it to work well. 
The best plan is to mix only small quantities, such as are sufficient for 
one sitting, as it dries very rapidly. On that account, it is best to work as 
quickly as possible. 

Turpentine will be found iiseful in removing stains from the fingers, 
or any spots that may happen to be made on the fabric, and to clean 
the brushes and palette. The brushes used in lustra painting should be 
-cleaned frequently, and between each color except when blending. The 
high lights are painted with the sparkling tints, the shades with the dull 
ones. The middle tones are usually painted with the clearer colors, height- 
■ened where needed with the sparkling ones, or deepened with the dull ones. 
The light should always be represented as falling upon the top of the object, 



392 Home Decorative Work. 

thus throwing the upper portiou into high light. The chief beauty of lustra 
painting lies in the arrangement of the lights and shades. 

Conventionalized fruit and flowers and arabesque designs form the most 
suitable subjects for lustra painting. All flowers may be represented in lus- 
tra except deep crimson ones. These may be painted in crimson lake, and 
vermilion oil colors, and the lights put m with carmine in lustra. 

For plush the colors should be mixed to the consistency of cream, but 
on silks, satin, or linen they should be much thinner and but little color 
should be taken in the brush. When using plush for a foundati&n, work 
with the pile of the plush using plenty of color. Put in stamens, pistils, 
veinings, etc., after the other portions if the flower are dry, and follow the 
same rule with the little accessories of other designs. • 

The design should be treated in a bold, free style, laying the paint on 
with the flat side of tlie brush as much as possible, with long, free strokes. 
Do not be afraid of using too much paint. Apply it thickly, but lightly. 
Exclude minute details as much as possible, for they detract from the dis- 
tinctness of the pattern In painting on velvets and plushes the paint 
should be laid on thickly at the edge of the petals and gradually thinner 
towards the center in order that the material may show through, thus help- 
ing to form the shadows of the flowers and leaves. If a very brilliant effect 
is wanted, go over the painting again, touching here and there a few bright 
spots, and sprinkle on the metallics. As brilliancy is the object in lustra 
painting, it is not necessary to follow the natural color of the flower. Choose 
colors that will blend well with the color of the material, and with the sur- 
rounding shades. The great object is to have the i)attern show well at a 
distance. 

In conventional flower designs some petals may be painted with spark- 
ling silver shading into gold, carmine and blue. In painting red flowers 
mix fire and dull red for the darker shade, putting in the high lights with 
fire and orange and light touches of sparkling silver. It must be remem- 
bered that the mixing of two diftereut bronzes will not produce the same re- 
sults as when similar oil-paint colors are combined; for instance, gold and 
blue bronze will not form a green tint. 

The Virginia creeper is charming either on a black or white ground. 
Daffodils, sunflowers, lilies, and water-lilies all show well at a distance, 
when represented in bronzes. Of the smaller flowers, carnations, priiii- 
roses, daisies, clematis and azalias make the best designs. Fruits make 
good conventional patterns. Plums and grapes afford the opportunity- of in- 
troducing a rich, purple tint, which, intermixed with gold and silver, pro- 
duces a charming result. Arabesque designs are made more beautiful by 
outlining the painting with brown or gold filoselle or rope-silk. 

The design must first be draAvn or stamped as for embroideiy, to secure 
correctness in painting. If the color spreads beyond the outline, it is be- 



Painting. 393 

cause too much medium has been used. In grounding tlie work, a camel's- 
hair brush must be well charged with the mixture. It is then drawn gently 
along, being held almost upright, and the space to be coA^ered is filled iu 
with one stroke of the brush. No pressure is required, for the more lightly 
the brush is handled the smoother will be the coating of color. In ground- 
ing large leaves they may be filled in entirely with one color and afterwards 
shaded, or be partially worked in with one bronze and finished with one or 
more shades according to taste. If the first attempt is not quite satisfactory 
on account of the layer of color being too thin, strengthen it by going over 
it again before it is dry. The work will dry in two hours. 

Beautiful effects can be obtained by laying contrasting colors over por- 
tions of the still moist ground, thus, silver modified with purple can be 
touched over a part of a bunch of grapes. The high lights of flowers, 
grounded in silver, may be put in with white silver, the deepest shades being 
thrown in with black, while the half tints are formed of a mixture of silver 
and black. Silver and black form a soft pearly gray, which is admirable for 
intermediate shades. Steel-blue bronze is useful for shading green leaves 
when the deepest shade is required. When green is added to steel-blue 
bronze, a deeper green is obtained quite different in shade from that pro- 
duced above. Light violet mixed with green makes a good tint for stems. 
Light copper, light green, and steel blue are often used to shade white flow- 
ers. Bright mineral green combined with light green makes a most desira- 
ble color for foliage, but it is too vivid to use pure in any quantity. Should 
the deep gold be all used up, it may be closelj' imitated by a mixture of 
violet and green gold or pale gold. 

Brushes must always be kept in good order. When the painting is fin- 
ished, thej' should be at once dipped in turpentine, and afterward washed in 
warm water and soap, the hairs being then laid flat. 

Lustra painting is extremely rich and handsome, and is entirely dis- 
tinct both in color and general effect from oil or water colors. The eifect is 
like the richest applique of cloth of gold, silver, or other metal. It must 
be remembered that the brilliant effects are all obtained with the metallic 
bronzes and the flitters. The dry powders are used for shadows and to tone 
down the light shades when a dead luster is desired. Any one can paint in 
lustra, who can paint at all, and any one who can learn to draw. 

One who is unable to take a leaf and paints, where sufficient colors are 
provided, and mix them so as to resemble those on the leaf would better not 
waste time in trying to paint. Pages of directions might be written, but a 
little practice and experimental work will be of more use to the beginner 
than a book of instructions. However, for the timid, we will give some hints 
for the painting of a branch of oak leaves. The necessarj' colors would be 
firelight, gold, orange, brown, flesh, cobalt green, grey green, scarlet and sil- 
ver. A nice bough of beautifully colored leaves should be chosen for a sub- 



394 Home Decorative Work, 

ject, and placed in water where they will keep fresh. Draw the branch and 
leaves on paper with charcoal, making it look as nearly like the original as 
possible: then draw them with a brush on a piece of cardinal velvet, using 
chrome yellow, number three, for the purpose. The painting board should 
be covered with a layer of cotton batting, and then with part of an old 
sheet, before the velvet is tacked on. Select oil paints just as near the cints 
of the natural leaves as possible. The paint must be thinned with turpen- 
tine and thoroughly dried before the lustra is applied. It must be applied 
with the medium sold with it. Do not put Bragdon's bronzes on vdth De- 
voe's medium or vice versa. Where the leaves are the brightest red, use 
scarlet or fire, put in the lights and shadows with flesh, silver and gold, or 
green where it ought to be green. 

For those who paint in water colors the process is the same, only that 
water colors are used instead of oil, and a different medium is used in ap- 
plying the lustra, one which will not spread or leave a dark mark. 

To Paint on Bolting Cloth. 

For this, preference is given to oil colors diluted with turpentine, but 
either water colors, or those prepared for Paris tinting may be used. In oil 
colors, the following will prove a sufficiently large palette for the most ambi- 
tious amateurs: silver white, vermilion, crimson lake, or rose madder (if 
you do not mind the difference in price), chrome yellow, Antwerp blue, 
zinnober green (medium shade); burnt sienna, burnt umber, Vandyke brown, 
«nd ivory black. A half-dozen brushes will be needed: two small, flat 
camel's-hair brushes, two very small round-pointed camel's-hair brushes, 
and Iwo rather small bristle brushes, a bottle of turpentine, a palette knife, 
•and a palette; these with a few sheets of clean white blotting paper com- 
plete the outfit. If economy must be practiced a five-cent pane of glass may 
be used, instead of a palette, to mix the colore on. 

If possible, procure old bolting cloth from a mill, wash and iron it and 
use it to practice on ; but for nice work do not get any coarser than No. 12 X 
Standard; No. 13 is better. 

Select a simple design from a picture card, book or paper; a spray of 
flowers will be good to attempt first. Lay the design flat on the table, and 
carefully fasten the bolting cloth over it, so that the design comes exactly 
where it is wanted; then lightly trace every line of the pattern on the cloth 
with a hard lead pencil. Then lay clean paper over the design and iron with a 
warm flatirou. The l)oltiug cloth is so transparent that the lines are easily seen. 

The advantage of this method is that a correct sketch is obtained with- 
out much work, and that there is no need to alter lines, which soils the deli- 
cate fabric. One who is not a very good artist would find it impossible to 
make a sketch without rubbing out some lines. 

Having finished the sketch, remove it from the study and lay it on a 



Painting. 395 

clean sheet of Avhite blotting paper. Then tack both firmly to the drawing 
board. The palette may next be arranged. The same colors are used as on 
canvas or other material; but they must be well thinned with turpentine, 
J50 that the color will stain, or dye the bolting cloth, without lea^^ng 
blotches of paint. 

The coloi-s must not be too bright; delicate designs look better for this 
work. After having had a little experience, try the Kate Greenaway figures, 
and children's heads. Where the human skin is to be represented, use terra 
rosa mixed with white; it gives that soft rosy tint that is so lovely in the 
complexion of little ones. Sea shells and mosses make one of the most effec- 
tive designs for painting on bolting. The paintings on bolting are always 
made more effective by placing over a delicate shade of satin, such as corn 
yellow, salmon pink, light blue, etc. 

Tapestry Painting-. 

The last few years have witnessed a very notable revival of taste ra 
house decoration in the various arts of painting, embroidering, etc. I will 
tell you to-day about tapestry painting. The colors used are liquid, and 
penetrate the material like a dye; when properly done the fabric has the ap- 
pearance of being woven. This kind of painting can be applied to many 
purposes for interior decoration, as for hangings and wall ornamentation. It 
also answers for embroidery on many things, as mantel lambrequins, panels, 
portieres, etc. It also admits of a great many colors and tints. 

The material used mostly for tapestry painting is a prepared canvas 
-which can be procured of any dealer in artist's materials. It is not like 
painting on silk or satin, or anything with a smooth surface, as canvas is 
somewhat rough. It should be well oiled with a mixture of boiled and 
raw linseed oil before the paint is laid on, and should be mounted on a 
stretcher the same as for an oil painting, but not too tightly. If there 
should be a few slight creases after stretching, they will disappear as the 
painting dries. The colors for tapestry painting come ready prepared, and 
are dyes without body. The different colors should be kept in bottles with 
wide necks which will admit of dipping the brushes in; but a brush charged 
-with one color should not be dipped into a bottle of another color. Tints 
-are often mixed in small saucers, though it can be done on the palette. 
Brushes for tapestry painting are similar to those used with oil, but one 
needs more of them. Brushes of hog's bristles are better for rubbing in the 
■dye and sable for the finishing. 

The design should be plainly traced on the canvas in color with a fine 
sable brush ; the colors are diluted with water. If the dj-e should be too 
faint, strengthen it ; if too strong, soften it. Mix the tints according to the 
size of the painting. If large, start with a number ready mixed. It should 
be remembered that all parts of the design which are to be white should be 



396 Home Decorative Work. 

left unpainted, as no white pigments are used. This resembles water-color 
painting very much. In softening one color into another, begin with the 
darker and blend the lighter into it, the lights being left clear, and the dark- 
est shades being put in last. The dye penetrates the whole texture ; it is 
not merely on the surface, and there is no cracking or peeling off, or anj'- 
thing to harden or stiffen the material. It can be washed with soap and 
water when soiled. 

There are fifteen colors in tapestry painting: Prussian blue, cerulean 
blue, cobalt blue, emerald green, Hooker's green, raw sienna, burnt sienna, 
cadmium, crimson lake, carmine, ivory black, deep chrome, Payne's gray, 
sepia and vermilion. These colors come prepared at twenty-five cents per 
bottle, except carmine, which is higher. The canvas comes iu different 
widths with corresponding prices. 

Lace Painting. 

One of the easiest and most effective methods of using paints is lace paint- 
ing. A piece of ordinary lace, by a few strokes of the brush, is converted 
into a "thing of beauty," and if not a "joy forever," it is a joy at least 
until it is soiled. The method is very simple and one having any eye for 
color need not fear to undertake it. Spanish laces are usually selected for 
dress trimmings, as they abound in lovely floral designs suitable for coloring. 
Judgment must be used in order to harmonize the colors of the flowers 
with the dress material. 

Lay two or three thicknesses of soft cloth upon the table or drawing- 
board, and fasten the lace smoothly and firmly by means of thumb tacks. 
Use water colors. Those iu tubes or pans, known as "moist colors" are 
most convenient. Tapestry or Paris tints also work nicely. As a medium, 
use gum water, made by putting half an ounce of gum arable and a tea- 
spoonful of sugar into a pint of tepid water. This prevents the colors from 
spreading and renders them more durable. Provide a little saucer for each 
color. Into each put seijarately a small quantity of the color required and 
thin to the proper consistency with the gam. water. Use bristle brushes, ex- 
cept for very delicate work, for which camel's-hair brushes are best. 

The brush must be only moistened with the paint. If just right, the 
paint will go on evenly and smoothly. Rub the paint round and round 
with the brush, shading delicately toward the edge. A little practice will 
enable you to do the shading well. The veining, shading, and outlining are 
done with a camel's-hair brush. Use as large a brush as is convenient; with 
it, you can work faster and distribute the paint more evenly. When the 
painting is finished, it may be dried by covering with a piece of fine muslin 
and pressing with a warm iron, though a better way is to alloAv it to dry 
gradually in the air. 

If you are painting a large piece, it is best to prepare all of each ((dor 



Painting. 397 

required at oace, as you will then be sure to get the e:;act shade throughout. 
It can be kei>t in bott'es and ix)urcd out as required. If gauze or any thin, 
plffin material is used, tlie design may ba drawn on blotting paper and 
placed beneath the material to be painted. Any bright woman will think 
of numerous ways of using this painting both for fancy work, house decora- 
tion, and for costumes; and if care ir used, the result will never be 
disappointing. 

Painting on Silk or Satin. 

The first direction that should be given to those who wish to paint on 
silk or satin is to wear a shade over the eyes and never face the light while 
painting. 

Test a small piece of satin before beginning a design. If the surface is 
easily moved by your brush, get a piece that is more firmly woven. The 
closest, finest satin is always easier to paint on. This is not necessarily the 
most expensive; for the satin with a linen back is better than a thin all-silk 
piece which costs more. Black satin is the easiest to begin on, as far as the 
design is concerned, for black harmonizes color. The choice of the color of 
the satin will, however, depend on the choice of the subject to be painted 
on it. 

Keep the satin smoothly stretched on a board, with artist's thumb tacks. 
Begin by squeezing out the tube colors on blotting paper, because the paper 
will quickly absorb the oil with which the paint is mixed, and therefore pre- 
vent an ugly, greasy, stain on the satin. It sometimes takes a week or more 
to dry painting on satin. 

The colors most often used in painting on silk or satin are: Transpa- 
rent colors — carmine, Prussian blue and purple lake; semi-transparent col- 
ors — burnt sienna, terre Aerte and Vandyke brown ; opaque colors — flake 
white, Venetian red, cobalt, vermilion, and chrome yellow, Nos. 1, 2, 3. 
Turpentine is used to mix paints, that is, to thin them. 

To paint on satin or silk with water colors, use a white sable brash anl 
go over the design with Chinese Avhite. No matter how finely you grind 
powder paints with water, something must be added to keep the colors from 
rubbing off as soon as the water has evaporated. "Whatever may be success- 
fully used to fix paints is called a ' ' vehicle. ' ' The most useful, with the 
fewest defects, is gum arable. It should be bought in the jwwdere 1 form ; 
dissolve it in cold water, strain it through white muslin, and keep it in a 
wide-mouthed bottle (with a cover) by your side Avhile painting. Mix your 
paints vnih this, if using moist or cake colors. Gum arable is be5t dis o vtd 
fresh every day; but if it is not convenient to do this, add a little alcohol. 
The Chinese use rice water to mix their colors. 

In painting with Chinese white on silk, it is well to mix a little pure 
glycerine with the paint, which will prevent its cracking. When j'ou wish 



398 Home Decorative Work. 

to give the effect of wliite flowers in shadow, as the semi-transparent appear- 
ance which is the characteristic of many flowers, add water to the Cliiueser 
white till it is almost liquid, and by painting this quickly over the satin, 
the color of the material showing partly through the thin white will pro- 
duce a grayish etfect of exceeding delicacy and beauty. Powder colors, such 
as those used for wax flowers, are better than cake paints to mix with (Chi- 
nese white and gum arabic. 

Painting on Plush or Velvet in Oil. 

The greatest difficulty to be overcome by amateurs in this painting is 
the matting of the velvet or plush. The material does not admit of light 
and delicate painting. Daisies make about the easiest subject. 

Sketch out the design lightly with Chinese white, or have the design 
stamped in white, then do not attempt to paint the surface, but press the 
colors down with a stiff bristle poonah brush until**they take hold well. To 
prevent running, use white copal Aarnish. 

Be sure that the plush is firmly fastened and that the nap runs down. 
Squeeze the colors on blotting paper. Plush cannot be finished at one paint- 
ing, for oil colors put on too thickly will crack. 

Painting on Plush or Velvet in "Water Colors. 

First trace the design on the velvet or plush, or have the design stampecl 
in white, then stamp the colors in well with a blender brush, using white 
afterward with a small brush in order to bring the colors out. Use powder 
paints mixed with gum arabic and water. Choose a design where the leaves 
or blossoms do not touch each other. A large design is best. Poppies and 
corn-flowers, painted broadly, are jiretty on olive plush. 

Painting on "White "Wood. 

To those who employ water-color painting as a pastime and study, 
painting on unpolished white wood is well worthy their attention. The 
work is not diflicult, and the result is generally so satisfactory that the stu- 
dent is amply repaid. The woods used are the chestnut or holly. In 
their natural state they are very white in appearance, and the only drawback 
is that in substance they are rather soft, so that in sketching or trailing a de- 
sign care must l)e taken not to lean too heavily on the pencil. Besides the- 
agreeable nature of painting on wood, from its smooth surface and the read- 
iness with which it takes the color, articles of use in the drawing-room, bou- 
doir, and for the toilet table, together with those of daily use, can be sup- 
plied. Blotting pads in various sizes are most useful and very appropriate 
on the writing table. Stationary cases and paper knives are made to com- 
plete the set. When choosing the Avood, try and procure it as Avhite as pos- 
sible and have the grain of tlie wood run lengthwise and straight. 

When the design is drawn, before commencing the painting, clean the^ 



Painting. 39^ 

■wood thoroughly with crumbs of bread ; and while coloring, place a piece of 
paper beneath the hand, so that it may not rest on the wood and soil it. 
The method of painting white wood in water colors is very simple. First, 
paint tlie design with Chinese white, which acts as a preventive against the 
colors sinking into the wood. Body color imparts brilliancy to the coloring 
on wood, which, if transparencie? were used would not be so great. In 
painting begin with the light shades and gradually deepen the color and fixi- 
ally put in the high lights. Do not be afiraid to apply dark colors and 
shades; they become very bright when the painting is varnished, and color::, 
such as Vandyke brown and crimson lake, warm up and heighten the bril- 
lianc}" of the picture. The colors can be obtained in either small tubes or pans. 
The pans are preierable. The ordinary brushes used in water color painting 
are the best to employ, .although some artists prefer to paint in body color 
with brushes used in oil color painting. 

"WTien the painting is finished the wood should be polished as follows: 
First pass over the entire wood a coating of patent white size, then wait un- 
til it has become thoroughly dry, and repeat the operation. Now be sure it. 
is thoroughly dry, and with a large soft brush apply the white spirit varnish, 
working the brush lengthwise. When this is dry, apply a coat of varnish 
and work from side to side. Continue this until the polish suits you. 

Cameo Oil Painting, 

Cameo oil painting, or the art of reproducing pictures on glass, is a very 
simple and pleasing one. It consists in transferring a picture to glass, then 
painting it. Photographs are generally used for the purpose. The mate- 
rials necessary are two pieces of clear glass of exactly the same size, castor 
oil, mucilage, sealing cement, paints, brushes, and blotting paper. 

The sealing cement is made by melting together and thoroughly mixing 
one-third of an ounce of beeswax and two-thirds of an ounce of resin. To 
make the mucilage, dissolve one ounce of gum arabic in three ounces of soft 
water, and strain it before using. Get all the materials ready before begin- 
ning on the work. 

To transfer a photograph, soak it in hot water until, by bending 
the card from the picture, it can be easily removed. Do not pull the picture 
from the card, but soak it until it nearly drops off, then lay it on a piece of 
glass and carefully wash all paste from the back, after which it must l)e 
placed between blotters and put in a book until perfectly dry. 

Now lay it on a flat surface and cover it with pure castor oil, allowing 
it to remain until it is transparent, when it is ready to be transferred, and 
painted. Oil should always be kept on it until the worker is ready to paini; 
it. 

It would be almost impossible to find two pieces of glass, that wlieu 
laid together, touch at every point. Put a drop or two of water on the first 



400 Home Decorative Work. 

glass, and press the other over it; the water will indicate the space between 
them, and show at which end the glasses come closest together. Use this 
end at the top, or face of the picture, and be sure that neither of the glasses 
are reversed. 

Place the transparent photograph on a piece of glass, and remove the 
oil with a soft cloth. Great care must be used to get it all from the right 
side of the photograph, or it will not easily adhere to the glass. 

The glasses must be perfectly clean and well polished, before they are 
used. Procure several sheets of writing paper about an inch larger than the 
glass; dip one of them under water and lay it down smoothly ; then place 
the photograph on this, right side up. Cover this side with mucilage, and 
place the glass over it, holding it in the thumb and finger of the left hand. 
Now turn it over carefully, and press out the air and all mucilage possible 
with the finger of the right hand, holding all firmly together meanwhile 
with the left hand. Place a piece of dry paper back of the wet one, and 
with a teaspoon rub from the center to the edges until all air blisters and 
mucilage are removed. Hold the spoon in the hand with the rounding side 
of the bowl toward you, using this side and edge. Be careful that the wet 
paper does not adhere to the photograph. Should this occur, lay it all in 
water until the paper can be removed without injury to the photograph; 
then dry the photograph and proceed as before. 

If the transferred photograph is unsatisfactory, lay it in Avarm water 
for a time until it can be removed from the glass; then carefully wipe off 
the water and mucilage, and proceed as before. Great care should be used at 
first, however, for it is never as perfect when handled a great deal. 

When ready to begin painting, wipe the oil from the photogiaph be- 
ing careful to remove all dust and lint, and re-oil again, very slightly,, using 
the finger to avoid lint. Paint the whites of the eyes, jewelry^, vines, flowers 
and embroidery ; also any small parts, such as colored spots in scarf or tie, 
narrow trimmings or cordings to a dress, etc. Use great care to have the 
paint smooth and not too thick. Nothing more must be painted on this 
glass. When it is finished, clean the second glass and put it on the back 
where it belongs. Should it be hollowing enough to touch the photograph 
in any place, separate the glasses with a thin piece of card at the points near- 
est where they touch. The glasses must lie as closely together as possible 
and not touch. They are next to be sealed. This is done by carefuUj' touch- 
ing the edges of the glasses to the cement, then letting it cool, then dipping 
again, a little deeper. If the glasses are dipped very deep at first, there is 
danger of the cement entering too far between them. Seal the ends first, re- 
move any pieces of card you may have lased, and seal the sides and cornere 
perfectly air tight. Noav you are ready to paint the second glass. Begin 
with the hair, eyes, eyebrows, beard and lips. The paint on the hair, eye- 
brows, and beard should be thin, especially near the face and at the edges. 



Painting. 401 

Allow the paint to become perfectly dry before attempting to finish the pic- 
ture, then paint the complexion and drapery. 

In iiaintiug always use white paper for the background. The outlines of 
the colors on the first glass, however, can be more easily seen with a black 
background. When the painting is finished, fasten a piece of heavy white 
cardboard to the back of it, sealing it along the edges with the cement, and 
then it is ready for framing. 

After the picture is j)ainted, should the glasses prove to be so close to- 
gether that the second glass touches the oil, the cement must be carefully- 
cut from the edges of the glass nearest the spots, and the difficulty remedied. 
This will be known by the appearance of spots on the picture. Separate 
the glasses a very little, and insert a narrow strip of writing paper between 
them to remove the oil, being careful not to touch the paint. Then seal it 
as before, being careful to have space enough left between. 

A more common method of reproducing pictures on glass, and one that is 
less trouble is as follows: Clean the glass thoroughly, then cover it with a prep- 
aration matle of equal quantities of balsam fir and turpentine, shaken until well 
mixed. The picture to be copied is then put on, face side down, and pressed 
firmly in place with the fingers. Then it is given a heavy coat of balsam mix- 
ture which is to be rubbed in with the fingers until the picture adheres firmly 
to the glass and the face of it is entirely free from spots. Now put it away 
where no dust can touch it, and leave it for two days, as it will take it about 
that length of time to become dry. It will be noticed that, after putting the 
balsam mixture on the glass, either side will look like the right side. It can 
then be painted as fancy dictates. But one glass is needed with this method. 
For painting the picture, use sable brushes with long handles, selecting 
numbers 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 13. 

The paints required are Chinese vermilion, chrome green, ivory black, 
permanent blue, chrome yellow, ochre, vandyke brown, silver white, Naples 
yellow, crimson lake, and emerald green. The paint must not be put on 
the glass until mixed of the exact shade desired. 

The beginner who uses black paints for black hair, and wonders why it 
does not look natural, will be glad of a few suggestions for mixing colors. 
Black — Vandyke brown. 

Grey — Silver white permanent blue, ivory black. 
EYES. -J Blue -Silver white, permanent blue. 
Brown — Silver white, Vandyke brown. 
Hazel — Vandyke brown, silver white. 
Blonde — Silver white, chrome yellow, vandyke brown. 
Light Brown — Vandyke brown, silver white, chrome yellow. 
Dark Brown — Vandyke brown, silver white. 
HAIR. - Bhick — Ivory bla<:k and vandyke brown. 

Auburn — Silver white, chrome yellow, vandyke brown, Chinese 
vermilion. 
, Grey — Silver white with the original color of the hair. 
26 



402 Home Decorative Work. 

{Gold — Chrome yellow, Chinese vermilion, vandyke brown. 
Amethyst — Crimson lake, permanent blue, ivory black. 
Garnet^ — Silver white, permanent blue, ivory black. 
COMPLEXION. — Silver white and Chinese vermilion, with a little chrome yel- 
low, if the subject is a gentleman. 
Following are a few hints for combining colors to produce those that are 
usually recj^uired in draperies or fiowere: For dregs of wine, mix crimson 
lake, and vandyke brown; cardinal — crimson lake and Chinese vermilion; 
pink — silver white, and Chinese vermilion or crimson lake; cream — silver 
white and chrome yellow; olive green — permanent blue, and chrome yellow; 
peacock blue — emerald green and permanent blue; purple — silver white, 
crimson lake and permanent blue ; drab — ivory black and silver white ; lav- 
ender — crimson lake, silver white and permanent blue ; light blue — perma- 
nent blue and silver white; navy blue is made by spreading a thin coat of 
permanent blue on a dark surlace. 

To Paint Pansies in Water Color. 
Pansies, being so simple in form, make excellent studies for the begin- 
ner in painting. In color, however, those pansies should be selected, first, 
which have the least variety of tints; for instance, a pale yellow one 
::tr8aked in the center with purple is not difiicult. Three of these, arranged 
carelessly with crossed stems were recently painted by a beginner, in Avater 
colors on a small piece of Whatman's paper of the heaviest kind, and when 
framed were really beautiful. 

The flowers were first fastened on a sheet of white paper with common 
pins and then tacked over the drawing board directly in front of the worker. 
Each flower was then drawn very accurately with a very hard lead pencil that 
left only a faint gray line. If mistakes are made, the incorrect line must be 
erased with a bit of wheat bread that is not too moist, instead of india-rub- 
ber, which has a tendency to glaze over the surface so that the place of eras- 
ure is always discernable. The wheat bread allows the colors to flow more 
evenly, but should not be used to excess, as it will leave a greasy effect. 

Lemon color should be chosen, instead of a faint wash of gamboge or 
chrome yellow as is often recommended. The latter are less expensive, it is 
true, but the former is more satisfactory. Chrome yellow is, in fact, far 
from being trustworthy. 

Fill the brush with enough paint to cover the whole surface of the flower; 
then begin at the left-hand corner of the left-hand flower, and make the 
strokes of the brush toward the center of the flower. In the petals on the 
right side the strokes must be made toward the center, also, but from the 
right. Then from the center down, on the lower petal, following with care 
the shape, and making the strokes converge with the sides of the petal. The 
center should be left entirely white to represent the very delicate gray tint 
which gives an almost pupil-like effect to the flower. Go over each one of 



Painting. 403 

the flowers in this way, before finishing any of them; then wait a few mo- 
ments for the last one to become dry ])efore going further with the work. 
In this way you avoid the danger of blurring, or of scattering dust over the 
damp paint. 

Now you will want a little ivory black to use with the local tint in 
shading between the petals. Paint the shadows sparingly in the beginning, 
remembering that they can be increased in depth much more satisfactorily 
than they can be lessened. After a little experience, the whole depth of 
shadow required can be put on with one stroke of the brush, which is the 
only satisfactory way. 

There is always a faint shadow under each petal where it overlaps the 
the next, and sometimes there is a little fold in the petal itself, where the 
shadow is seen. In some places, the shadow may be shown by leaving out 
the black, and simply strengthening the yellow. One's judgment must be 
used in such matters, for it is something not easily taught. Add a little 
more black to the shading color on your brush, and lightly touch the pupil 
spot in the center. The purple is now to be added to the lower and two 
side petals, but this must be not done until the yellow is quite dry. 

Mix on the palette a little crimson lake and new blue to the shade of 
purple to be represented and copy the delicate pencilings with the finest 
pointed brush. The stem should be in green, to which black is added on 
the shaded side. 

When the beginner has learned to paint this pansy well, there will be 
less difficulty with the others, and pansies show such a wealth of color that 
they alone Avill furnish an endless array of s;ibjects. From the single pansy, 
one may paint them in groups, in baskets, scattered carelesely on a table, or 
growing in a pot. A delicate grey background is the most artistic, and the 
flowers show to better advantage on it than on any other color. 

Paris Tinting-. 

Paris tinting, like nearly all inventions, was brought into play in em- 
broidery to save work; namely, the tedious filling in, of the second, third, 
and fourth shades in Kensington embroidery. 

This form of combination of silk and painting took the name of " alli- 
ance embroidery, " but has seen many variations, and the name "Paris 
tinting" has been applied to many imitations; for instance, several cities 
have been flooded with Diamond dyes dissolved in alcohol and sold as Paris 
Tints. Of course the work done with these cheap dj-es could be nothing 
more than glaring daubs of gaudy colors, while Paris tints are so carefully 
and skillfully prepared that with their proper use one can obtain as beauti- 
ful effects in coloring and shading as can be obtained with oil or water 
colors. 

Paris tints are prepared in twenty-four colors, each susceptible of great 



404 Home Decorative Work. 

variation in shades, and they will combine the same as water colors and 
thereby give almost an endless number of delicate and beautiful colors. 

Paris tints are transparent and therefore can be used only upon the 
lighter shades of satin, soft silk, and plushes, and on bolting cloth, kid, 
chamois, moleskin, damask, cro"\vn sheeting, etc. They are especially beau- 
tiful on crown sheeting and white kid. Here the designs are tinted and 
shaded to nature ; or, when conventional designs are selected, the tinting 
may be done to suit the taste of the worker. In conventional designs the 
outlines of the figures are etched in silk of the same shades. 

In the alliance embroidery, the floweis and leaves are shaded from the 
light to the dark and the Kensingson stitch is used on all the outer edges al- 
ways matching the silk to the shade of tint. The dii'ections for use are 
given as follows by all the best teachers: 

' ' Tack the material out over clean blotting paper, and with a small 
brush, wet with the color wanted, paint the design somewhat a.'? in flat tint- 
ing or washes of water color. Pour out a little of the color in a small sau- 
cer, such as is used in water-color painting, diluting with water if color is 
too intense. The brush must hold but very little color, particularly when 
used on satin, as otherwise the color will run beyond the outline of the de- 
sign it is intended to fill. Have the brush only moistened with the color 
and go over the space a number of times, rubbing the color well in to get an 
even tint. A little careful practice will enable you to ' get the knack, ' so as 
to tint disks, flowers, etc., close to the lines without spreading beyond. 
Patterns of overlapping disks usually have the disks tinted in different 
shades of the same color. * 

* ' These colors are transparent, so that light colors can seldom be success- 
fully used on dark grounds, and it is always best to test the color on the ma - 
terial to be tinted, as for instance, yellow on light blue will appear quite 
different from yellow on pink or red. 

' 'As the colors cannot be intelligibly named, they are designated by let- 
ters, and a sample of the color itself is shown on the label of each bottle. 
Almost any shade may be obtained by the mixture of the various colors in 
different proportions. For instance: By mixing yellow, blue and brown, 
or, yellow, olive and blue, a great variety of leaf greens may be obtained, 
diftering according to which of these colors predominates. "NVith care, these 
colors on silk will wash. Before washing, wring out a cloth wet in strong 
alum water, and lay it on a table; over this lay the material and press it 
with a warm iron. This steaming sets the color, after which it may be 
washed with castile soap and warm water. 

"The edges of the flowers are worked over in side stitch of filo silk or 
fine chenille, and a few stitches here and there, as in the centers of holly- 
hocks or the edges of rose petals, will add to the finish of the work. 

"In tinting for alliance embroidery, the colors are used as in painting in 



Painting. 405 

water colors, and not merely in flat tints — considerable detail being obtained 
by skillful management." 

Painted. Ground-glass Panels. 

These panels can be bought at any art store, and some of the larger 
stores where window glass is sold. Care must be used in selecting it to 
choose a piece which is perfectly free from blisters or blemishes of any sort. 
If one does not wish to be at the expense of ground-glass panels, plain 
ground-glass plates twenty-four by thirty-six inches in size may be used, 
and cut into the sizes desired. After cutting two or three large ones, there 
may be small pieces of the glass left ; these should not be thrown aside, as 
thej^ may be transformed from almost worthless pieces of mere glass into ob- 
jects of real beauty by decorating each with a simple spray of flowers or 
bunch of fruit. The tinting of the background is almost as difficult as 
painting the study, as a very even tint is desired. Where a large panel is to 
be painted, French white zinc with Japan dryer may be used and this color 
qualified with the tube paints. 

To form a sky background laj^ the panel flat on the table or drawing- 
board, take up some of the paint on the palette knife, and spread it irregu- 
larly on the glass to form clouds; for this only the plain white is used. 
Now place some of the white paint on one side of the palette and mix Avith 
it a very little ivory black from the tubes ; on another side of the pal- 
ette take more of the white paint and mix a little light red with it; still an- 
other pile of the white paint can be mixed with Antwerp blue. The black 
is to be blended underneath the clouds for the shadow. The blue is placed 
on thick with the palette knife above and all around the clouds for the main 
background, with here and there tints of the pink (light red and Avhite) 
blended through it. The clouds should be arranged near the top of the 
panel, then the plain tints of the pink and very light blue, then darker blue, 
and at the bottom of the panel a dark olive, made by blending together all 
the tints already used and adding a very little chrome yellow. In mixing 
the tube colors with the white i:aint, care should be taken to use as little as 
possible of the former, especially the blue and yellow, as these are strong 
colors, and the tints should all be very light to give a good effect through the 
glass. 

The background should always be painted on the smooth side of the 
glass, leaving the ground side on which to paint the flowers. When the 
tints are all laid on. and the glass is covered, it is ready for the blending. 
Raise the glass from the table, look on the other side and you will be sur- 
prised — at the beauty of your work ? Oh, no, at finding the effect so ugl\-. 
You have laid the paints on very carefully, of course, and blended them nioelj-, 
but you must not be discouraged if the effect from the other side, looking 
through the glass, is not so pretty as you supiwsed. All you need is a little 



406 Home Decorative Work. 

perseverance and the streaked, hard, stiif lines of paint will soon he trans- 
ibnued into soft, billowy clouds and beautifully-blended sky tints. In order 
to do this, hold the panel on the table in an uxjright position with the 
ground side toward you, and while you work watch the effect of the blend- 
ing through the glass, keeping the painted side turned from you. If you 
desire a really beautiful effect do not blend with the palette knife, stiff 
brush, or cloth, but with the fingers. It is not pleasant to put one's fingers 
right into the sticky mass of paint; but the woiker will feel well paid when 
beholding the beautifully-finished background, even if the fingers did get 
very much soiled and perhaps a trifle sore from the constant rubbing. 

First V)lend the white clouds off into the lilne tints above them and the 
shadows beneath ; then blend the different tints into each other, until there 
is not the slightest suggestion of a line of color any^vhere, but all is soft and 
filmy. 

Now smooth the paint slightly with the knife, and lay the panel aside 
to dry, where no dust can settle on it. If plenty of drying Japan has been 
used, it will be perfectly dry in two or three days. Then, with a little mu- 
cilage, paste stout jiaper on the back, over the paint, so that there will be no 
danger of scratching it while working on the other side. If the panel is to 
be framed, any thick paper will do; but for small panels, to be placed on 
easels, it is best to use glazed paper, and the effect is very pretty if the back 
is covered with velvet, with a narrow strip brought over the edges to show 
from the front. 

Panels with the sky background are especially pretty for wild flowers or 
single plants. If you wish to paint a large study which will nearly cover 
the glass, a plain background will be more appropriate. This is made by 
using white paint for a foundation, and blending into it small quantities of 
the tube colors, making it any tint you desire. These panels are not only 
pretty for easels and framing, Ijut can be used for bookcase and cabinet 
doors, for screens, and many things that fancy may suggest. 

Panes of ordinary window glass are exceedingly pretty painted and 
frosted. Select the size suited to your design. On one side paint the back- 
ground; the other is frosted, the frosted side being used for the design. 
Pink, gray and cream backgrounds are each effective for pansies. 

Materials: One No. 1 blender, one bottle pale drying oil, one bottle 
diamond dust; this is enough for two or more panels. The following colors 
are also needed: silver white, ivory black, geranium lake, king's j-ellow, 
and mauve lake. 

To make a pink background, add a little geranium lake to a quantity 
of white, and six drops of the pale drying oil. Mix the oil thoroughly 
through the paint, then apply to the glass with rapid, even strokes. The up 
and down motion of the hand indicates the proper movement of the brush. 
For a cream background, use king's yellow alone. For silver gray, mix 



Painting. 407 

€qnal quantities of silver white and ivory black. Mauve lake and 
■white equal quantities, make a prettj^ background lor roses. The tint, how- 
ever must be delicate. 

When the background is dry, the other side of the glass may be frosted. 
Varnish it with the pale drying oil, using the blender to apply the oil, then 
sprinkle with diamond dust. 

Another way is not to give the glass a background. Simply varnish it 
with the drying oil and then sprinkle with diamond dust. The design is 
then painted on the smooth side. 

These panels are adapted to flower painting alone. 

To paint pansies on a pink panel, first sketch or transfer your design to 
the glass; then paint the entire design, leaves, blossoms, buds, and stems 
pure white. Add a few drops of drying oil to the paint in oi'der that it may 
dry rapidly. Nos. 4 and 6 long-handled camel's-hair brushes will be needed, 
also a Ijottle of pale drying oil and the following colors in Windsor and New- 
ton's oil paints: brown madder, pink madder, silver white, lemon yellow, 
mauve lake, terre verte, black lead, and chrome green. 

To mauve lake add a little pink madder; this makes a fine purple. To 
lighten this shade for some of the petals, add a little white. To darken the 
shade add brown madder. One pansy and bud may be painted with lemon 
yellow, lightened with white. Shade these with markings of brown madder. 
The fine lines that shade out from the centre of pansies are made with an 
outline brush, using black lead, after the other work is dry. 

Paint the buds to correspond with the blossoms. Paint the leaves with 
chrome green, lightened on one side with a touch of yellow, and darkened 
on the other side with terre verte. 

Natural pansies are the best study, but many beautiful designs are 
found on the Easter and birthday cards. 

Dye Tinting. 

This is used a great deal in connection with embroidery. The tints are 
liquid or dye paints, which come in small bottles ready for use, and can.be 
applied to anj' fabric. The pattern is stami^ed on your table cover, sofa pil- 
lo^v, window curtain or portiere — usually a conventional design — and you 
paint the flowers and leaves in solid, going over the surface as evenly as pos- 
sible but not attempting to shade. Two or more colors can be combined, 
but the most correct are painted in one color, and then outlined with silk of 
either a lighter or darker shade. Pope silk or linen is used for heavy goods, 
such as Bolton sheeting or felt, and twisted embroidery- silk or filo-floss for 
lighter materials, such as China silk, bolting cloth, etc. These finer goods 
should always be painted over a sheet of blotting pajjer to prevent the liquid 
spreading bej'ond the stamped design. 

Imitation Sorrento work is a branch of the above, the only difference 



408 Home Decorative Work. 

being that the background of the design is painted and the leaves and flow- 
ers outlined and veined. 

Alliance embroidery is another variation, but requires more skill and 
taste than either the tinting or Sorrento work. For this, a group of flowere 
(say pansies or wild roses) is stamped on the material, and then each flower 
and leaf stamped separately on white satin, and paiuted in their uataral 
colors. They are then cut out and applied to the work, the edges being em- 
boridered in a suitable shade, and all the connecting stems and grasses 
worked on the material. The effect is far more beautiful than one would 
imagine. At a little distance, it looks like Kensington work, only with finer 
shading than can be obtained with the needle alone. 

WALL BANNER OR PANEL OF CARNATION PINKS. 

This pattern is very effective, painted on black satin for a wall banner, 
or in clusters on a portiere. It is also a fine decoration for an ebonized 
wooden panel, or a Duquesne panel. For one desirous of painting this de- 
sign red sable brushes Nos. 3, 8 and 9 will be needed, also a bottle of drying 
oil, a pane of glass for palette and the following tube oil colors: silver white, 
Chinese vermilion, geranium lake, chrome green, sap green, zinnober green, 
burnt sienna. Do the stamping with white powder. Set it, if on satin, by 
laying a piece of soft paper over the stamping, and pressing with a medium 
hot iron. If on the panels, hold for a moment or two near an open fire. 

Begin by giving your entire design a thin coat of white. To do this, 
add to a quantity of white a few drops of pale drying oil and mix it well 
through the paint, then apply, being careful not to go over the outlines of 
the design. Let this dry, and then apply the natural shades. Paint the 
stems with sap green; and the calyxes and leaves of shades made up of 
chrome, zinnober and sap green. Add only enough oil to each shade to ren- 
der the paint smooth. If satin is used, it should be attached evenly and 
firmly to a painting board or a clean table before the work is begun. 

Three shades should be made up for the paints. One of equal parts of 
vermilion and geranium lake, one of geranium lake to which a little white 
has been added, and one of white, vermilion and geranium lake. Apply 
with rapid, even strokes, in the curves indicated by the stamping. Ketouch 
the second time, if necessary to get good effects of light and shade. Let the 
work dry well before using. 

PEACOCK ON WHITE VELVET. 

Three sizes of red sable brushes will be needed for this design ; also one 
yard of artist's white velvet, one small bottle rectified turpentine, and the 
following colors: one bottle gold paint (Marching's is accompanied by a 
liquid mixer which is very useful), mauve lake, ivory black, chrome green, 
emerald green, permanent blue, and transparent gold ochre, mil be the col- 
ors required in tube oil paints. It is best to stamp with powder on white 
velvet. Use blue powder; but do not apply it too heavily as the lines are apt 



Painting. 409 

to show through the paiutiug. To stamp the design on velvet, arrange your 
perforated pattern on the goods with the wrong side of the perforations up. 
Place a weiglit on the upper left hand corner of the pattern to hold it in 
place. Take up some of the powder on your stamping pad and rub over the 
_ perforations, taking great care not to move the pattern. Take up more pow- 
der on the pad as the occasion requires, until all the lines of the pattern are 
developed on the goods. Then remove the pattern and hold the face of the 
velvet near the fire until the stamping is set or will not rub. 

To paint this design one should have two or three of the natural peacock 

feathers as a model, nature, at all times, being the best study for an artist. 

Light touches alone, will give elegance and softness to this branch of 

art. The velvet must not be hardened by too much paint or too harsh a 

touch. 

Green, golden, bronze and a real peacock blue are the prevailing tints. 
The head and neck may be painted witli permanent blue, to which a touch 
of mauve lake and chrome green have been added. Mix the paint on the 
palette before dipping in your brush moistoned with turpentine. The tint 
of green in the ends of the long tail coverts, is made by mixing equal parts 
of chrome and emerald green, and adding a touch of transparent gold ochre. 
Next to this is a band of the transparent gold ochre, and next to this, a band 
of peacock blue. Add chrome gi'een to permanent blue to make this shade, 
using about half as much green as blue. The centre s^iot is a velvety black. 
Paint this first, with mauve lake, then retouch with pure ivory black. If 
possible, visit some place where a handsome peacock is kept. Take notes of 
markings on neck, breast, wings and tail. This will be a great help. Art- 
ists, in all branches, should take nature as the highest and best guide. 

Markings of gold paint are used on the neck and breast, ax^plied with a 
fine brush. The same markings are used on the claws, which are first 
painted with the transparent gold ochre. 

The brushes, before using, should be clii^ped on each edge and at the 
point. This is done to make them firm and stubby. 

FAN WALL POCKET ON BROWN VELVET. 
A nice palm leaf fan, one bottle gold lustra paint, bottle of mixing oil 
for the lustra, two yards pink silk cord, one-half yard pink satin, one yard 
rich brown velvet or a good quality of velveteen, three-fourths of a yard 
pink silesia to match the satin; also two French liristle brushes, No. 3 and 
5, and one sable brush No. 1, and also the following tube oil colors: One 
tube each of zinnober green No. 1, lemon yellow, burnt sienna, silver white, 
rose madder; also a small bottle of turpentine. A perforated paper stamping 
pattern of a medium sized spraj' of wild roses will also be needed. Cut out 
first a piece of velvet the size and shape of the fan, leaving a margin over suffi- 
cient to turn in a good seam all around. Cut a lining for the back of the 
fan of the pink silesia. One piece of black cotton-sheeting between the vel- 



410 Home Decorative Work. 

vet and the fan will improve the appearance of the article. Baste or whip 
the cotton-sheeting smoothly to the edges of the fan, then put on velvet and 
lining, whipping all neatly together around the edges. 

For the pocket part, cut out a piece the shape of the fan and about half 
the depth. Cut a piece each of silesia, satin, and velvet. Stamp the design 
of wild roses, using white powder for the purpose. Attach the Aelvet to a 
piece of stiff pasteboard or a painting board, by means of thumb-tacks or 
pins. Take out some white paint on your palette; a medium-size pane of 
glass answers pretty well for this purpose. Add a few drops of turpentine 
to it, and with this paint the entire design. If you have the pale drying oil, 
two or three drops of this and the same amount of turpentine would be 
good. Many artists, however, use turpentine alone as a "mixer" for velvet 
or plush work. Let this dry and then lay on the natural shades of the buds, 
blossoms and leaves. Paint the rose petals with a delicate shade of pink, 
made by mixing white and rose madder, using very little of the latter. 
Paint the leaves, stems and calyxes with zinnober green, shading in a little 
lemon yellow. When the leaves are perfectly dry take your sable brush 
and vein them with burnt sienna. 

Paint the tips of the buds a delicate pink. Place silesia between the 
satin and the velvet, whip the three pieces together; then attach cord to the 
top of the pocket, and around the edge of the fan. making loojis of cord 
where the pocket joins the fan. The handle of the fan is painted with the 
gold lustra. The pocket may be put on the side or at the bottom of the 
fan. 

HAND-PAIXTED FOOT EEST. — BLUE JAY. 

The requisites are a pine board eighteen by twenty inches in size, three- 
fourths of a yard of crimson felt, three dozen brass-headed lacks, a small 
quantity of excelsior, a perforated paper patternof a blue jay on a pine-tree 
bough. The following paints will also be needed: One tube ivory black, 
one tube permanent blue, one tube light chrome yellow, one tube silver 
white, one tube chrome green, a small bottle pale drying oil, a common pen 
and penholder, one No. 4 French bristle brush, and a No. 2 sable brush. 

First, the board must have a strip two inches wide nailed on the under 
side of the top to give it a slanting position. Next, lay the felt on the board 
and measure where the pattern must be laid to bring it in the right place. 
Then lay felt on a smooth table and stamp the design, using white pow- 
der; set the pattern by holding the wrong side of the goods before the fire 
for a few minutes. Then fasten firmly to a painting board and you are 
ready to begin painting. Give the bird a coat of white first; do this with 
No. 4 brush, diluting, on mixing the paint, with a little turpentine. Let 
this dry and then lay on the natural shades. Make the eye of ivory black, 
surrounded with a circle of yellow. Paint the bill with ivory black and 
blue mixed; a very little zinnober green shaded in on the bill is also good. 



Painting. 411 

The crest and top of the head may be done iu Kensington, using the pen. 
Black, permanient blue and -white will be needed for the tox) of the head 
iind crest. The same colors will be needed for the tip of the tail. Take 
the paint up shovel fashion on the pen, put the jwint of the pen down on the 
goods and draw towards you. This makes the Kensington or feather stroke. 
Take up white first, then blue and then black, alternate strokes of each. 
Paint the breast with the bristle brush, using the permanent blue paint, also 
paint the back with this. Paint the wing with the pen, using alternate 
strokes of white, l)lue and black as described for the tail. Paint the 
thighs blue. Paint the pine bough with chrome green, shading in a little 
burnt sienna, if you have it. Paint the legs and claws with a mixture of 
black and permanent blue. Place excelsior next the board and arrange the 
felt neatly over it. Fasten around the edges with brass-headed tacks. One 
row of gold l)raid is also pretty around the edge. The felt should be tacked 
neatly down on the under side. 

DECORATION FOR A BEDSTEAD. 

The one it was desired to remodel was of imitation walnut. The 
shape was good. The whole bedstead received two coats of French grey 
paint which comes in one and two pound cans, mixed ready for use. When 
it was quite dry we had a consultation as to the decoration. The carpet in 
the room it was to occupy was red and Idack, but we hoped soon to put down 
a new one, and so the bedstead must be decorated to suit the carpet. "White 
seemed to harmonize with all colors; so in the early spring I procured a limb 
of dogwood in bloom, brought it home and made a rough sketch of the outline 
and carefull}^ copied a small branch in oils on a smooth board for a study. 
In sketching the design on the head-board, a bit of tailor's chalk was used. 
The colors used were flake white, medium chrome, burnt sienna, vandyke 
brown, Prussian blue, and ivory black. I used a medium-size bristle brush 
to lay in the colors, putting in shades with a .sable. I did not use pure 
white at all, but toned it down Avith grey, made of ivory black and flake 
white and a touch of burnt sienna. At the top of every petal I examined, 
there was a spot of brown, and I found a light red to be just the shade I 
needed for it. The stems were of a greyish hue with spots of white and 
joints of narrow black. For the stems I used white, black and burnt sienna; 
for the leaves, Prussian blue and medium chrome, with ivory black for 
shading. 

I used a smaller liranch over the foot board, and varnished the whole 
•when it was dry. "White with trimmings of gold is very stylish and cheer- 
ful. I used a lace spread and pillow shams lined with red oil calico. Now, 
I have the room in pale grey with pink. We live in a sootj' city and I find 
lace spreads the most economical. They remain clean longer than white 
ones, and are easily laundered. I have linings iu pink, l)lue and scarlet, all 



412 Home Decorative Work. 

being calicoes that wash well ; the pink and the blue have very small pat- 
terns that do not show through the lace. 

DECORATIOX FOR JUGS, BOTTLES, ETa 

A common yeast jar Avith a handle is very easy to transform into a 
* ' thing of beauty ' ' a pair of them making very pretty mantel ornaments. 

A small can of white lead, to which your druggist can add the prciper 
amount of oil, will do to give either jugs or bottles the body color. Decide 
on the tint you want for this body color, pink, blue, delicate green or yellow, 
and add to your white one of these colors in sufficient quantity to give tlie 
required shade. A good-size brush and a blender, No. 2, will be needed for 
your work. Apply your paint rather thickly, going over every part care- 
fully, then blending the paint together well. Blending is accomplished by 
the up-and-down motion of the hand, using the point of the blender. When 
this coat is dry, apply another, also blending it thoroughly: "When this is 
well dried, your design may be applied. Small butterflies, if the ground- 
work of the jug is blue, are very pretty done in the gold or silver bronzing: 
Daisies, sweet peas, or wild roses are also very pretty on a blue ground. 
The daisies, perhaps, are the easiest to paint. The colors required would be 
white, chrome yellow, light and dark zinnober green and geranium lake. 
Paint daisies, leaves and stems all white first, then retouch the leaves, stems, 
and calices of buds aud blossoms in two shades of green. Eetouch the dai- 
sies with white, and on some petals work in a little rose madder. Make the 
centres of the daisies with chrome yellow; when this yellow centre is dry, 
retouch on one side of each centre with a very light touch of geranium lake. 

Another quite effective way of decorating jugs is to paint them in a 
body color of a delicate lavender, made by adding mauve lake to white, 
then decorating them with a bunch of grapes modeled in putty and finishing 
them with gold bronzing. Add enough boiled linseed oil to the putty to 
make it soft enough to work well. Do not make the grapes too large or 
heavy. AVhen ready to put them on, touch the under side of each one with 
a little melted glue; arrange a stem also of putty aud one or two leaves. 
Eoses and buds modeled on jugs and then jjainted in natural colors are quite 
handsome. The following is quite a good preparation for flower modeling. 
Add to common white lead, such as you buy in cans at the druggists, enough 
Spanish whiting to make a thick dough. Work this until perfectly smooth, 
then roll out and model into the desired shape. 

HANDKERCHIEF BOX — D.ilSIES, ROSEBUDS, AND FORGET-ME-NOTS. 

A perforated pattern of suitable size will be needed for stamping this 
design. First procure a square wooden box about 6x10 and 4 inches deep, 
cut pieces to fit the inside, of pink silk. Dissolve some white glue, by 
placing it in a baking powder l)Ox with small amount of water and setting 
it in a vessel of hot water. With a small bristle brush, go around the edges 
of the pieces of goods (just as you use them), immediately fitting them in 



Painting. 413 

place. Dark blue eatin may be used for the outside of the l)ox. Attach the 
pieces on the outside, turning in a narrow edge all around and pressing down 
neatly Avith a warm iron before gluing. For the top, leave a margin of one 
inch all around over the size of the cover of the box. Overcast the edges of 
the material before stamj)lng the design on it. Use white powder for this. 
The following artist's materials will be needed : Red saljle brushes Nos. 1, 
2 and 4 ; a little pale drying oil and the following colors — rose madder, 
Kremnitz white, peimanent blue, lemon yellow, brown madder, orange yel- 
low and emerald green. • 

Add to a little of the white, enough drying oil to make it smooth, then 
give your design one coat, very evenly applied. When this is dry, go over 
it as follows : For the leaves and stems, use emerald green, shading in a 
little lemon yellow. Retouch the daisies with white, shading in on some petals 
a very little rose madder; make the centers of orange yellow; just around 
the outside of the center draAV a fine line with brown madder. For the for- 
get-me-nots, add a little white to the permanent blue. Paint the centers of 
these with lemon yellow. When perfectly dry, glue this ornamented top 
piece to the lid, also attaching a lining to the under side. This makes a very 
l)retty and serviceable box. 

BUTTERFLY DESIGN FOR FAN MOUNT. 

Stamp the design, with a perforated pattern, on either white or black 
satin as desired. The sticks and handle part of an old fan may be used, if 
still in good condition, on which to mount the tan after it is painted. Use 
white powder to stamp on black, and pink powder to stamp on white satin. 

Over the painting board lay a thickness of clean blotting paper. Then 
fasten the satin smoothly and firmly to the board, using thumb-tacks for this 
purjiose. If possible, obtain several natural butterflies as models for your 
work. If this cannot be done, a good artist's study would be of much ser- 
vice as a model. Have ready a bottle of pale drying oil, red sable brushes, 
Nos. 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6, also the following tube oil colors: silver white, cad- 
mium yellow No. 1, carmine No. 2, lemon yellow, cobalt blue, ivory black, 
brown madder, orange yellow, raw umber, emerald green and zinnober 
green No. 1. 

On the black satin, or, in fact, on any black goods, always lay the design 
in first in white. This gives a clear body color to work. Add enough drying 
oil to your paint to make it very smooth, and then apply the color in the di- 
rection of the ' ' grain' ' of the insect . This direction will very easily be noticed, 
either in the natural model or the colored study you may purchase as a general 
guide. A delicate golden yellow maj^ be used to advantage on one or two of 
the butterflies. This shade is made by adding a little cadmium to silver 
white. Make the spots and fine markings of pure brown madder. Another, 
paint with pure orange yellow, with the markings of ivory black. For an- 
otlicr, make a shade of green by mixing equal parts of zinnober and emer- 



414 Home Decorative Work. 

aid, using raw umber for the markings and spots. A little white can be 
shaded in for the high lights. Paint another with brown madder, spotting 
and marking with cobalt blue to which a little white has been added. 

Wash your brushes in tepid soap-suds after painting one butterfly, so- 
that the colore will not mix in the next. 

BORDER OF POPPIES FOR SWISS PILLOW-SHAMS. 

This pretty design is stamped with pink powder. It may be urged 
against painted shams that they will not wash ; but they are prettier than 
embroidered ones, made much more quickly, and c«st less. 

In the first place, having made your ticking '' forms " and stufled them 
with husks, stripped and cut up fine, or, if you live in the South, with well- 
dried grey moss,make a cover of cream-colored silesia or cambric for each sham. 
Let this fit perfectly. You are now ready to prepare the painted cover. 

Do not stamp more than half of the design at a time ; when this is 
paint«d, the other half can be arranged. 

Lay two thicknesses of old muslin under the Swiss, holding all well ia 
place with artist's thumb-tacks. Have ready one bottle of pale drying oil, 
sable brushes Nos. 1, 2, 4 and 6, and the following tube oil colors : rose 
madder, sap green, emerald green, Kremnitz wliite and ivory black. 

To a quantity of Kremnitz white, add enough rose madder to make a 
delicate pink. Mix in a few drops of pale drying oil, enough to blend the 
paint perfectly. Beginning at the top of the petals, paint toward the center. 
The strokes for this flower should be as much as possible in parallel lines. 
Let the petals dry, and then paint the centers in the following manner. 
Paint a small spot, right in the center, of emerald green. When this is dry, 
make the stamens of sap green, to which a very little ivory black has been 
added. 

AVhen you have painted your border and it is dry, finish the shams by 
edging w^ith cream-colored lace. Other designs may be used, if desired. A 
spray of wild roses, forget-me-nots and daisies would be pretty in the center 
of a pair of shams. 

MODELING IX PUTTY FROM STAMPED DESIGNS. 

Artistic ingenuity is always developing the new and the beautiful, and 
there seems to be ever at hand the necessary material for developing original 
ideas in art. 

The wooden panels of a deep maroon color and perfect polish, called the 
Duquesne panels, are capable of many forms of decoration. They may be 
used for landscape or flower painting, but the latest idea is to use them as the 
background for modeled designs. A panel eleven by twenty-two inches costs 
$1.25, antl can be furnished by any art dealer. On this a design of grapes 
and leaves would be effective. Stamp the design on the panel, using white 
powder. Set it by holding before a moderate fire for two or three minutes. 

Have ready the following materials before beginning to work : First, ten 



Painting. 415 

cents' -worth of putty, well softened by the addition of linseed oil. It 
should be pou?aded with a rolling pin, and rolled on a smooth pine board un- 
til perfectly pliable. A good-size pocket knife will be needed, also one bot- 
tle each of gold and siher bronzing, and a small bottle of drying oil with 
which to mix the bronzing. Stamp the design again on white paper, then 
cut out the leaves to use as patterns. Eoll the putty about an eighth of an 
inch thick, on the leaf patterns lay and cut out with the penknife. Cut as 
smoothly as possible. Lay over the corresponding leaves on the panel, press- 
ing down lightly. Draw the veins and markings on the leaves with a darn- 
ing needle. Cut the stems and tendrils, shaping with the knife and fingers. 
and arrange in place. For the grapes, cut small square pieces of putty and 
roll into shape with tJie fingers, arranging them over the grapes stamped on 
the panel. The leaves, stems and branches may be painted in the silver, 
and the grapes in the gold paint. Mix these paints one at a time in a butter 
saucer or small tin lid. A No. 4 and a No. 6 red sable brush will be needed. 
Do not mix the paint too thin, or it will run off the design on to the panel 
proper. Use the drying oil as the mixer. Set away in a cool, airy place for 
three or four days or until dry. 

SUGGESTIONS FOR DECORATING WOODEN ARTICLES. 

The art stores are showing many novelties in wooden articles, many of 
them combining use and ornament. There are various ways of decorating 
these articles ; these hints are intended merely to assist those who have not 
seen the goods when decorated. There are shovels, Holland shoes, bowls, 
scoops, spinning wheels, anchors, eagles, Mikado banjos, guitars, bells, etc., 
etc. Both the banjos and guitars have openings for small lirass plaques. 

Cover the banjo or guitar with plush, then insert the phu^ue. Or, the 
front only may be covered with plush and the rest ornamented with the 
metallic brocade. First varnish the parts to be decorated with amber 
enamel, and then sprinkle Avith the metallic brocade, which can be had in 
the following colors : gold, silver and copper, at fifteen cents a bottle, and 
orange, red violet, fire, carmine, cambric (assorted), crimson, light blue, dark 
blue, blue, violet, new green, light green, dark green, and straw yellow; at 
twenty-five cents per bottle. When the brocade is dry, shake off the 
surplus. 

Shoes ornamented with gold or silver bronzing, and tied together with 
ribbons are pretty as match safes or cigar holders. In spinning wheels make 
the diflferent parts of contrasting colors. Shovels and scoops are especialh' 
adapted for marine landscapes and snow scenes, the entire handle and back, 
being gilded. 



TaTi t)ll. 



PAPEE-FLOAVEE MAKING. 



.Ajs^r^/HY, art. of making paper-flowers has become so popular that a few 
I ' hints as to the best methods may be acceptable. One great feature 
A^ which will recommend it to many ladies whose tastes outrun their 
purses, is that with a small outlay for materials, they can brighten 
and beautify their homes, by the exercise of a little ingenuity and patience. 
The tissue paper used can be obtained from any stationer. The domestic 
costs from two cents to six cents per sheet according to color. The French 
paper is from four cents to eight cents, but is Avorth all the difference, in the 
superiority of finish, and one sheet of a color goes a long way, if used with 
care and economy. The leaves for different varieties can be bought ready- 
made, as also the stamens and stems of all kinds. For instance, a poppy re- 









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to \ oi 




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QTOJ a£ ,'<) 








<-> ./ 




< 




Fig. 1. Fig. 2. 

quires a stem of a peculiar shade of light green covered with hair, w^iilst for 
roses and almost all other flowers a much slimmer stem made of rubber is 
suitable. This comes in lengths of about one yard. 

To cut the petals of any flower, the paper is folded so that a number of 
thicknesses can be cut at once. This can be done by doubling it, making 
two folds; doubling that, making four; doubling that in the same way, mak- 
ing eight, but this is not the right way. The right way is to take a square 
piece the proper size for your form and fold the corner A over the corner B 
opposite (see Fig. 1). Crease the fold down and fold again, bringing corner C 
over to D. Crease the fold formed by this and fold the corner C back to A. 

416 



Paper-Flower Making. 



417 



Turn the paper over and fold corner D back to B again. This forms a fcjlding 
similar to a fan, and the paper if allowed to spring open looks like Fig. 2, 
and when pi-essed flat forms a triangle one-eighth the size of original square. 
Fig. 3 shows this with a line indicating where it should be cut for a flower 
having four petals, as the poppy. In folding, bo careful to have all the folded 
edges come evenly together; the cut edges are not of much consequence. In 
all the forms for cutting in these directions, the dotted line shows the shape 
and size of the folded paper and the solid line indicates where to cut it. In 
some instances the paper is folded to make six thicknesses instead of eight, 
which gives the form shown in Fig. 4. 

You can, probaljly, in most of the forms, cut them quite accurately by 




y 



Fig. 3. Fig. 4. 

looking at the diagram, but if you do not feel sure of yourself open out the 
paper and lay it over the diagram so that the creases come over the dotted 
lines, then trace the solid line on your form, fold up again and cut out by 
the line. Crimping the edges of the petals is done in dift'erent ways. For 
the large rosettes, the method is shown in Fig. 5. Cut a piece of paper fwrn 
diagram Fig. 3. Take a knitting-needle or similar piece of wire, and thrust- 
i ig one end of it through the center allow the other end to project in a 
line with and beyond the point of one of the petals, fold the petal over the 
wire; and holding it as shown, with the forefinger of one hand on top, take 
liold of the folded paper with the thumb and forefinger of the other hand 
and press the paper towards the hand holding the wire, at the same time 
raising the finger to allow the small plait or wrinkle which Avill be formed in 
27 



41J 



Home Decorative Work. 



the paper to pass under aud be held by it. Repeat this process until the 
whole petal is pressed tightly together in a series of little crimps. 

Another method of crimping which is used for the poppy is .shown in 
Fig. 6. The paper is held between the thumb and finger, and in the other 
hand a small knife is held, the blade of which is pressed against the ;paper 




Fig. 



so as to catch a small plait which is pressed between the thumb and finger 
holding the paper. The knife blade is slipped back a little and another 
plait taken, and so on, working all around but a little in from the outside 
ed.ge of the petal, which gives each petal a cup shape. 

GOFFERING. 

This is done Avith a smooth stick (Fig. 7) called a goffering tool. Fig. 8 




Fig. 6. 
shows how it is used in goffering the inner petals of a double rose, Fig. 13. A 
cutting (eight thickues.ses) of the petals is laid on the cushion of cotton as shown, 
aud the goffering tool pressed firmly down at a slight distance from the edge and 
drawn towards the pointed edge of the petal which causes the edges which pro- 
ject beyond to curl up and crinkle. The same process is repeated on the other 



Paper-Flower Making. 



419 



edge of the petal. Then turn the petals over and using the sharp edge of the 
tool, make a sharp crease down the center of the petal, which causes a different 
crinkle. Fig. 9 shows how this is done in the case of the aster (Fig. 43). 
The form having been cut (several thicknesses) it is laid on the cushion, and 




Fig. 8. 
the sharp edge of the goffering tool drawn sharply through the center. A 
more simple method still, is to take a small black -headed pin, and laying 
the petals on the soft natural cushion of the thumb, or on the palm of your 




Fig. 9. 
hand, to draw the head of the pin sharply around or through the center, 
as desired. 

TINTING. 

The point of the petal towards the centre of the flower, is usually 
darker than the outside, and a most natural effect can be obtained by tint- 



420 Home Decorative Work. 

iug the paper. Cut the squares of paper, and before folding them to cut in 
the form, take a small ball or wad of cotton dipped in a dry powdered color 
aud rub around in the centers of the squares. A very little powder is suffi- 
cient, and the tints so obtained are very delicate and blend perfectly with 
the color of the paper. For darkening the centre of the poppy, use vaudyke 
brown, with a little ivory black; for the outside petals of the pink tea-rose, 
use chrome yellow with a little French chalk ; for the yellow rose, chrome 
yellow with a little carmine. In some cases, as the outer edges of the in- 




FiG. 10. Fig. 11. 

ner petals of the full blown double pink rose, it will be found necessary to 
supplement the tinting with staining. 

STAINING. 

Take the petals just as cut and dip them in water, then dip the edges in 
another saucer containing water in whit^i a little carmine has been dissolved. 
The carmine will run in a little from the edge here and there, giving an ir- 
regular and natural blending of the pink and white. The petals must be 
left to dry before goffering. 

SLIPS AND SLIPPING. 

In making a rose the petals may be cut out separately and pasted on, 
but a simpler method is to make "slips" for all but the outer row of petals. 
By a slip fs meant a set of the petals left joined together, as for instance the 
four petals of the poppy. The paper as shown in the diagram and cut by 
the lines will, when opened out, have the four petals shaped out but connected 
in the centre. In making up the flower, the wire for stem is thrust through 



Paper-Flower Making. 



421 




422 



Home Di:corative AVork. 




Fig. 13. 



Paper-Flower Making. 



423 



the center of the slip, and it is "slipped up " the stem and by a little gum 
attached to the centre. 

CURLING. 

In the rose you will see that the edges of the outer petals curl or 





Fig. 14. Fig. 15. 

turn over. This is done by simply drawing the paper over a sharp edge ; 
hold a knife so that the blade presses against your thumb, and then draw a 




./ 



Fig. 16. Fig. 17. 

piece of paper between the blade and thumb. The blade should not be too 
sharp. This curling can be done before or after the flower is made up. 

THE rciPPY. 
Figs. 10 and 1 1 give the diagram for the cutting of the forms for this 



424 



Home Decorative Work. 



A 



flower. They grow in a great variety of shades of pink, yellow, and white, 
but are best known in the l)iight red. In cutting squares to fold and cut by 
any of the diagrams, measure twice the length of the short side of the tri- 
angle. Two squares cut by each diagram are required for one flower. Tint 
the center with vandyke brown and ivory black, as described in ' ' Tinting, ' ' 
and crimp into shape. Take a culot (or centre with stamens and seedpod) 
attached to a wire stem, and put the wire through the centre of the smaller 
of the two crimped slips. Slip this up to the culot and repeat with the other 
slip, arranging them so that the petals of the outside slip come in the spaces 
between the other petals, using a little thick paste or gum to keep them in 
place. Then slip on two other slips in the 
same way. The poppy, unlike other flow- 
ers, has no calyx on the outside. 
TEA ROSE. 

The tea rose is one of the flowers most 
sncessfuUy imitated in paper. There are V 

four forms; each to be cut four times, using \ 

three or four shades of pink. The largest \ 

sized square (Fig. 17) is to be tinted in the \ 

centre with chrome yellow and chalk before ^^^ 

folding to cut, and after folding and cutting ~\ 

by the diagram open it out and cut all the 
way down to the centre, as these outside 
petals must be used separately, and not in 
slips. 

To form the rose make a centre by 
twisting a ball of cotton into the end of a 
piece of stem wire and cover with paper 
to match the first set of slips, gumming 
it a little to make it hold firmly. Now 
string the first set of slips on the wire stem, Y\g,. 

then the second and third; then holding the ball forming the centre in 
the left hand, run the first slip up close to the ball and proceed to turn the 
separate petals up over the ball one after another, each succeeding petal 
lapping over the preceding one a little and each held in place by the 
forefinger of the left hand. When all the petals of this slip are brought 
up as described, slip up another and repeat until they are alx brought 
up closely around the centre. Slightly gum the edges of the last 
row of petals about half way up where they lap, to make them hold in 
position. 

Next with a knife blade curl the edges of the outer row of petals as de- 
scribed under the head of "Curling," and with the tweezers open out the 
inner petals that were folded up over the centre, beginning at the outside. 



Paper-Flower Making. 



425 



Now take the outer rows of petals, and cut them apart. Curl before putting 
on, and crimp the pointed ends a little at each side to make them a cup- 
shape; cut a short slit in the point of each petal to allow it to surround the 
stem. With a little thick gum attach the petals, three in a row around the 




Fig. 19. 



rose, and in the next row allow the petals to come in spaces between those of 
the firet row, etc. Finish the rose with a calyx and seedpod which can be 
bought ready-made. Wind a small strip of gummed tissue paper (green) 
around the stem to keep the seedpod iu place, and cover the stem wire with 



426 



Home Decorative Work. 



the tubular rubber stem made for this purpose. Arrange branched leaves to 
suit, cutting holes in the rubber stem to receive the wire. 

FULL-BLOWN DOUBLE EOSE. 

Cut forms for this from same diagrams as tea rose, with the addi- 
tion of Fig. 18, the paper for this being folded to six thicknesses. All the 
petals are to be tinted before folding to cut and after cutting are to be cut 
apart and stained; sizes 14, 15, 16, and 18 are to be goffered. Take three or 




Fig. 20. 
four of each of Figs. 18, 16, 15, and 14, and make into sets by laying one on 
top of another, beginning with the largest size, attaching each to the one be- 
low by a touch of thick gum at the pointed end of the petal, making a pile 
or set of twelve to fifteen petals with their goftered edges turned downward. 
Crease the whole set down the centre from the pointed toward the other 
end, bringing the edges together and securing them with gum, making a fold 
in the pointed end, running part way from the point towards the centre of 
the petals. Now taking a rose centre,or culot, 
gum five of the sets of petals as described above 
around the centre. (See picture of full-bloom 
ros6, Fig. 19.) Gum separate petals (Fig. 18) 
against the lower part in the spaces between the 
sets of petals just gummed on. Take five petals 
of Fig. 17, curl the outer ends and crimp the 
edges a little near the pointed ends; gum them 
slightly on the edges and paste them together 
Fig. 21. to form a slip, by lapping the edge of one petal 

over the next until the five are pasted together. Make two of these slips 
and bring them up close against the back of the rose. Finish with calyx and 
seedpod, which come ready-made. 

Buds and half-opened flowers are made in the same way, except that 




Paper-Flowek Making. 



427 




Fig. 22 



428 



Home Decorative Work. 



the outer petals are are left off, and the ends of the calyx brought up a little 
higher, also the culot with stamens is not necessary for a bud. 





Fig. 23. Fig. 24. 

DAISY. (Fig. 20.) 

Cut two slips from Fig. 21, and crease the petals slightly through the 

centre, and slip them on so that the petals of second slip alternate with those 





Fig, 25. Fig 26. 

of the first slip. The centre can be made of silk floss or wool, or bought 
leady-made ; yellow for white daisies and brown for yellow. Then wire 
stems covered with tissue paper. 

THE DAHLIA. (Fig. 22.) 
For this flower the petals are all used separately. Cut one square from 



Paper-Flower Making. 



429 



each of the diagrams from 25 to 29, first tinting the paper in the centre of 
the square with vandyke brown and ivory black (for a red dahlia). Each 




V / 

/ / V 



v 



/ 




FIG. 27. Fig. 28. 

petal must be plaited over a penknife blade, as shown in Fig. 23. For the 
centre take a greenish- yellow filling silk; tie round with wire to form loops 
as in making tassels, then trim off till it forms a velvety ball or tuft. 




X 



Fig. 29. 

Isow with a little thick gum stick the petals in position around the cen- 
ter, beginning with the smallest, pressing them up tightly underneath to 
make the outer petals turn out and down. 

For the calyx use two of Fig. 30, which come ready-made, or can be 



430 Home Decorative Work. 

cut from green tissue paper. Gum them in place close up around the ends, 
of the petals. Use a rubber stem, and make leaves from green tissue paper. 
THE PINK. (Fig. 31.) 
This is made in a great variety of colors, and can be made to look very 
natural. For a white flower streaked with pink, tint the centres with 
chrome yellow and with a small camel's-hair brush and a little carmine or 
crimson lake, streak the outer ends of the petals. For a dark red flower, 
use two shades of red paper. Cut four of each by Figs. 32 and 33, using 
Fig. 33 for the darkest, when two shades are used. For a pink flower use 
white paper, and stain the edges with crimson. Crimp all the petals around 
the centre, and press the slip tightly around the ball of cotton, which forms 
the centre of the flower. The long, thick calyx is made by winding cotton 
around the stem and covering it with green paper. 

THE DANDELION. (Fig. 34.) 

Use three shades of light yellow for the dandelion. Cut two of Fig. 3S 




Fig. 30. 
from the darkest shade and two from the middle, the four of Fig. 36 froni) 
the lightest shade. Make a small ball at the end of the stem and slip on the 
slips one by one, drawing them clear up over the ball, which is gummed to 
hold them in place. Each slip is treated in the same way, until they are all 
on. Then curl the petals a very little upward by drawing them once be- 
tween the knife blade and thumb. Finish with small green calyx and wire 
stem covered with green paper. 

Leaves, as below (Fig. 37), can be bought ready-made, or can be made as 
follows : Cut the shape of the leaf that goes with any particular flower, in 
green paper, two forms for each leaf ; gum the two together, with a fine wire 
stem in between, the whole length of the leaf. The veins can be creased 
with a Ijlunt instrument. 

THE SNOWBALL. 

Four cuttings from each of the forms are used, and the tinting is done 
with chrome green and French chalk, very lightly, just enough to give a 



Paper- Flower Making. 



431 




Fig. 31. 



432 Home Decorative Work. 

faint green tinge to the centre of each form. Curl the petals, making them 
twist a little to one side. The four thicknesses can be curled at once. Form 
a ball of cotton, and arrange the slips exactly as in the dandelion, except 
that the curl of the petals must always be down, not up toward the centre. 
Use rubber stem and no calyx. 

THE ASTER. (Fig. 43.) 

Cut two of Fig. 45 and four each of Figs. 46 and 44. Cut Fig. 45 from 
the darkest, 46 medium and Fig. 44 from the lightest of three shades. Pur- 
ple is the color most often seen. Goffer them through the centre of each 
petal. Make the centre of the flower as for dahlia or daisy, of yellow silk 
floss. Place each slip by itself, beginning with Fig. 48. Cut the calyx 
from green paper about the same as Fig. 48, but only half the size for the 
larger, and one-third for the smaller. The larger one goes on first. Gum 
the stem and wire with green paper. 




Fig. 32. Fig. 33. 

JAPANESE ASTEK. 

This is cut from Figs. 48 and 49, and made up exactly the same as the 
dandelion. 

THE PEONY. (Fig. 50.) 

Cut from same shade of paper four squares, by each of the forms num- 
bered from 51 to 56. Figs. 55 and 56 should be folded to six thicknesses 
and the others to eight. The first two numbers are used as .slips, but the 
other three are cut apart and used as separate petals. Figs. 54, 55, and 56 
are crimped a little at the sides near the points to make them cup outwards, 
and the petals must be drawn up tightly towards the centre, which is formed 
of a little ball of cotton as usual. Curl a few of the petals slightly after the 
flower is all made up. Cut calyx from Fig. 24 (dahlia forms), from gieen 
paper, using five of the pieces. Use rubber stems and make leaves as de- 
scribed in the aster. 

THE ROSETTE. . 

The large rosette, though not a flower, is very showy, and made in 



Paper-Flower Making. 



433 




Fjg 34. 



28 



434 



Home Decorative Work. 



bright yellow looks like a sunflower; it takes three shades for the outside, 
and one of dark brown for the centre ; or, if you are making a pink rosette, 
take bright yellow for the centre. Cut four squares of the darkest shade, 
and two each of the others. Cut them all by Fig. 58. In folding, double it 
back once more than for the poppy, making sixteen thicknesses. Open them 





Fig. 35. Fig. 36. ^ 

out and crimp them. Fold another piece of stiff paper (any color) sixteen 
thicknesses, and cut it off across Avhere dotted lines beginin Fig. 58. This is 
the foundation for the centre. Gum this and put it in the centre ofoneof the 
lightest pink or yellow pieces. Then put a little gum on the pink piece and 




Fig. 37. 
attach the second of the light pink pieces, and so on with the two medium 
and then the four darkest shades. Place them so tliat in the two lightest and 
the first of tlie second shade, the petals curl upward or towards the centre 
whilst the rest curl outward. 

The yellow centre is made by cutting several strips of bright yellow pa- 



Papee-Floaver Making. 



435 




Fig. ;5S. 



436 



Home Decorative Woek. 




y 




Fig. 39. 



Fig. 40. 





Fig. 41. 



Fig. 42. 



per, about an inch and a half wide; double it through the centre, then fold 
to get eight or ten thicknesses, then with a sharp pair of scissors snip it at 
regular distances to form a sort of fringe. This strip is then sewed to the 
centre foundation, beginning at the outer edge and allowing each row to 
overlap the former. A little manipulation will cause the fringe to stand up. 



Papee-Flower Making. 



437 




Fig. 43. 




Fig. 44. 



Fig. 45. 



Fig. 46. 



438 



Home Decorative Work. 




E.G. 47. 



Paper-Flower Making. 



439 



The size of rosettes can be varied to suit, by cutting the squares larger or 
smaller. Our pattern calls for a square of fifteen inches. 

LEAVES. 

Leaves just like those found on all artificial flowers can be bought ready- 
made, and serve to give a finished look to a bouquet of paper flowers. Al- 
though it is possible to make leaves at home, from the green paper of differ- 
ent shades, it is much better to buy them as the home-made leaves are never 
so satisfactory. Calyx and stamens are also to be bought and are usually sold 





Fig. 48. Fig. 49. 

by the dozen. A little dried moss, gummed to the calyx of a rosebud, gives 
it a very natural appearance. 

Any woman, with a little exercise of ingenuity and patience, can by 
following the directions closely make a variety of beautiful and natural look- 
ing flowers to adorn her home, and remind us during the winter of the sum- 
mer which is all too short. Many will take a few branches of some ever- 
green and arrange them in a vase with some of the bright colored paper 
flowers, and at a little distance the effect is wonderfully natural. 

The snowballs are usually bunched and hung upon the wall, or portieres; 
and the rosettes, made very large and bright, can be placed in some dark 
comer, near the ceiling. There are few women with so little ingenuity that 
they will not know how to dispose of their pretty paper flowers most 
effectively. 



440 



Home Decorative Work. 




Fig. 50. 



Paper-Flower Making. 



Ul 





Fig. 51. 



Fig. 52. 








Fig. 53. 



Fig. 54. 



442 



Home Decorative Work. 




Fig. 55. 



Paper-Flower Making. 



443 




V—. 



~^ 



Fig. 56. 



444 



Home Decorative Work. 




Fig. 57. 



Paper-Flower Making. 



445 




Fig. 58. 



f apt '0111. 



DEAWN-WOEK 




RAWN-WORK or Mexican needle-work shows such a variety of pat- 
terns and is adapted to so many diiferent materials that it has held 
first place in decoration for table-linen, dresser scarfs, etc., and no- 
thing has yet been found which pleases so well, although the Roman 
embroidery has in a measure taken its place for other fancy articles, such as 
aprons, tidies, and articles of that sort. 

The only stitches used are the old-fashioned chain and button-hole 
stitches, and the material, butchers' linen or linen sheeting, momie-cloth, 
fine linen of any kind or China silk. Great care must be taken in drawing 
the threads, each square must be exactly a square ; if a wrong thread is cut 
it cannot well be repaired. For the first piece of work perhaps the linen 




sheeting will be the best to use, as the threads are easily drawn and the ma- 
terial inexpensive, if wasted. 

Select some pretty pattern, not too intricate, suitable for a doilj-, tray, 
or carving cloth, or a narrow border for a dresser or commode scarf. Draw 
the threads carefully and buttonhole all edges which have been cut ; if the 
pattern requires, fasten the threads left with a plain hemstitch. If the pat- 

446 



Drawn-Work. 447 

tern selected does not require this, simply overcast the edges to keep them 
from raveling. 

There are various ways of holding the work. Some use an embroidery 
frame, or a small pine frame covered with muslin to which the work may be 
basted, like a quilt in a quilt frame; but the most simple is to procure about 
a quarter of a yard of white oilcloth and tack or baste under the drawn 
threatls, being careful to have each part stretched to the same tension, that 
the work may not be twisted. This need not be removed till the work is 
finished. 

Never knot your thread. Insert the needle in the material a quarter of 
an inch from the place of beginning, and take a few fine stitches, as you 
would in sewing a seani, and secure with the stitch used in the work, or a 
buttonhole stitch. This makes neater work, as a knot will be plainly seen 
if linen thread or wash-silk is used. Always finish with a double chain 




Fig. 2. 
stitch, one over the other. Care must be used not to draw the threads too 
tightly, as it will shrink a little when wet. Wash-silks may be used when 
laundered, but I find that linen thread, No. 100, is more durable. 

If a handkerchief is desired, it saves time and eyesight to buy one al- 
ready hemstitched. A doily may be either hemstitched or fringed, but if 
the fringe is used an extra piece must be hemstitched on to make the fringe 
of three thicknesses or it soon weai-s off, and it is well to use an inch hem. 
The wheels which occur in many patterns are simply darned in, or woven, 
and are very pretty and durable. 

Fig. 1 shows a corner and border for doilies, or tray cloths. The drawn 
spaces of this pattern are formed as follows : At a certain equal distance 
from the four edges of the material, draw ten cross threads, leave three, draw 
seven, leave three, draw ten. The ojien-work in each corner is formed by cut- 
ting along the inner edge of the corner the threads which have to be drawn; 
after these threads have been drawn, nine squares are formed by the crossing 



448 



Home Decorative Work. 



of the four remaining strips. Buttonhole the lower inner edge of this cor- 
ner. At each of the two wide drawn spaces, count every four threads and 
cross them in the centre. At the narrow drawn space, cross two only. 

If desired, and if the material is of any loose fabric, the intervening 
three threads may be feather-stitched, to prevent displacing. 

Fig. 2 shows a border for scarf or throw. To copy it, draw a certain 
number of threads— enough to make a border about one inch wide, and hem- 
stitch the edges in bunches of four. This border is worked in two rows. 
In the first row knot two bunches together all the way across. In the second 
row, knot at an even distance from the first row, dividing the bunches and 
fastening half of the first to half of the second; the other half of the second to 
half of the third, and so on all the way across. 

Fig. 3 shows so clearly the mode of working this stitch that instructions 





Fig. 3. Fig. 4. 

are hardly necessary. Three or four threads are drawn, then five or six 
threads are passed over, then the threads are drawn from a wide space. 
Next to that have five or six threads, then draw as many as were drawn at 
first. The loose threads in the wide space are hemstitched into groups of 
four, which are again woven in clusters of four, as shown in the illustration. 
Always twist the thread around one of the strands to get back to the start- 
ing point. This border is suitable for doilies and tray-cloths, but is hardly 
fine enough for a handkerchief. 

In the square shown in Fig. 4, which can be made any size, the threads 
are cut where they are drawn out, and each space carefully buttonholed to 
prevent raveling. The arrow heads .show how the threads are drawn in. 
This is pretty for a centre to pincushion cover; or it can be used as a border 
and made any width desired. 

In the work shown in Fig. 5 the edge is simply overcast, care being used 



Drawn- Work. 



449 



to take the same number of threads each time on the needle. They are then 
caught together in groups of four with a knot. This is a very effective 
stitch, and quite quickly done. It is pretty for tidies which are to have 
bright linings. The same stitch is used in ornamenting felt table covers. 
The threads are first worked in silk, then tied together as indicated. 




Fig. 5. 

The work shown in Fig. 6 is similar, but more elaborate, and can also 
be used on heavy goods when worked on over-laid threads instead of those of 
the goeds. 

Fig. 7 shows a very heavy and handsome stitch, which is seen fre- 
quently in the old Mexican lace. The number of threads in each group must 
be determined by the quality of linen used. In the coai-se material from 




Fig. 6. 
which the cut was made, two threads were taken in each group making eight 
threads in all. With a fine linen thread, weave back and forth over and un- 
der these eight threads, like darning, for almost one-third of the width drawn; 
then leave off the two outside stitches and weave over the two inside for a 
little over one-third ; then take in the two outside ones, and work up to the 

One stitch dropped from each group is next caught together in the 

29 



450 



Home Decorative Work. 



middle. In order to do this without breaking the thread, pass around the 
stitch nearest to where your thread is fastened, then connect the two stitches 
and pass the thread back over another strand, then go on with the weaving. 




Fig. 7. 
There are two rows of this stitch, and the space between the two is orna- 
mented with a row of dots, worked with a coarser number of linen thread. 
To make the dot, take three stitches very close together. 

In the work shown in Fig. 8, the material is drawn in equal spaces clear 
•pETg 




u i-'il-^K.-i ti 
Fig. 8. 
across one way, then worked in squares by means of the stitch, as shown in 
the illustration. This is pretty for small scjuares such as a pincushion cover, 
and may be used for the corner of a handkerchief It is also pretty in tidies, 
and so easily made that it is not trying to the eyes. 

Fig. 9 shows one of the most elaborate of drawn-work patterns, but it is 



Drawx-Work. 



451 



shown so clearly that it needs very little explanation after the other, more 
simple jjatterus, have been mastered. It will be noticed that the drawn 
spaces are fastened by buttonhole stitches taken quite wide apart, whilst the 
square space that is cut out is buttonholed very closely. This is necessary 
on account of the small space between the cut square and the drawn space. 
To form the pattern in the open square, first make the twisted bars of coarse 
linen threa<^l across from each corner; then pass the needle to the middle of 
one side and connect with the twisted bar down toward the centre ; from 
there go to the middle of the next side, back again to to the next bar, and 
so on till you have all but the last stitch done, then connect again with each 




Fig. 9. 

bar at the same place as before, thus forming the small inner square ; and 
then complete the last stitch. These small triangles must now be filled in, 
and to do this you must knot your thread on the side of this triangle, near 
the point, and take the thread over back and forth, until the spaces are full; 
then work the other way, weaving in and out these threads you have just 
formed, until all is filled in. The corners are made by passing the thread 
across, and fastening on to the twisted bar, then buttonholing tightly over 
that thread. The loops are formed by leaving a loop in the thread between 
two of the buttonhole stitches. 

The solid squares are worked over and over in satin .stitch, care being 
taken to Ibllow the thread and keep the stitches regular. In the outside 



452 



Home Decorative Work. 



border, the threads after being drawn are worked over and over with very 
fine thread, but not buttonholed. 

Fig. 10 shows a very showy pattern which is not nearly so much work 
as it seems to be. It is especially liked when used on heavy goods with 
overlaid threads. In the work represented the threads, after being drawn, 
are divided as desired, by a double row of knots ; then a thread is taken 
through the centre of the space, dividing these strands into groups of eight ; 




Fig. 10. 

another thread is then taken midway between the centre and the outside, on 
each side of the centre thread, which makes the group of eight into a group 
of four knots. Now take the thread around in a curve, pacing from one 
side of the work to the other between the last made line and the outside, 
tliis time making the group of eight into six by taking the first and last 
knots on one strand only, the other four on two strands. The other two 
threads are taken nearer the centre, forming three and then two strands re- 



Drawn-Work. 



45; 



spectively, care being taken to make the threads meet evenly in one spot. 
Then work the spider-web with the back stitch as shown in cut, passing 
your thread on from one to the other, to avoid making unnecessary knots. 

The handsome . quare shown in Fig. 11 is made with drawn-work 
and cut sciuares very similar to stitch in Fig. 9, only the space between is 
wider and is ornamented with a herring-bone stitch in Avhite silk. The va- 




FlG. 11. 
cant squares are crossed l)y eight threads as shown in the illustration, and 
over these the thread is wo-\en in and out to form the spider-webs. In the 
last 1-ound of the spider-web, catch the thread in the edge of the .S(iuare by 
an invisible stitch. The outer border is iu cross-stitch done in silk. 



I^PEX. 




CROCHET. 

ARTICLES IN ; 

Afehan 307 

Basket. 309 

Basket, Hanging f'.>r Work 312 

Boot, Baby's 2!)1 

Boot, Infant's •2^2 

Cap, Boy's 270 

Cap, bmoking. 272 

Cap. Infant's 271 

Cap, Jockey .■ 271 

Cape • • . • .^ 265, 266 

Chemise Band 309 

• Collar, Cliikl's 263, 264 

Collar, Featlier-edge Braid • • 261 

Collar, "Housekeeper" 260 

Collar, Lady's 262 

Collar, Oddity 258 

Collar, Scliool -girl's 259 

Counterpane, "Housekeeper" 298 

Counterpane, Leaf 296 

Counterpane, Star 293 

Garter 309 

Handkerchief with Hailstone Lace. 313 

Harness 310 

Hood, Cliild's 282 

Hood, Infant's 281 

Hood, Pop-corn Stitch 280 

Jacket, Sleeveless 279 

Mat, Calla-Lily Lamp 303 

Mat, Pansy 302 

Mat, Vase 304 . 

Mitten. Baby's 293 

Opera Capote 281 

Pincushion Cover 305 

Purse 313, 314 

Sacques, Infants 273, 275, '277 

Soarf, Lady's 264 

Shawl 267 

Shawl in Close Shell-work. 265 

Shawl ill Crazy Stitch. 268 

Shawl, Slioulder, in Tricot. 269 

Skirt, Hahv's 291 

Skirt, Child's 290, 291 

Sk i It , Lad V 's 290 

Sofa Blanket 308 

Tidy ill Crochet. 286 

T'dv, Spider-web 288 

T'dy, Square for 286 

Ti<l V, Thread and Ribbon 283 

Ti() V, Wheel for 284, 289 

T dv. Wheel 285 

T .hac.o Bag 31G 317 

AVork-hag 310 

Wiup 270 

454 



Index. 4:55 



EDGINGS : 

Any Width 183 

Buttonhole iU 

Clover-leaf 185 

Crazy i«| 

Cross :|°-| 

Double-chain ^^y 

Everlasting Lace loO 

Eyelet 177 

Half-shell 176 

Half-wheel 181 

Hour-glass i°i 

Narrow-scallop 17? 

New Wave l°o 

One-row 176 

Open-point 1'8 

Picot-scallop lo^ 

Pointed-scallop 178 

Quick. 178 

Rick-rack ■ • • ■ ^2^ 

jiose ■' ' ^ 

Square-and-Picot 184= 

Surprise 184 

Triple-loop !-^^ 

Two-row 177 

Vandyke.. 185 

AViudow 1°^ 

Zig-zag.. lo- 

INSERTIONS- : 

Pineapple 205, 207 

Spiderweb 19^ 

JLACES : 

Beau-ideal 216 

B'g-wheel 212 

Butterfly 201 

Composite ^f ^ 

Crab 218 

Diamond-shell • • • • • 187 

Double-fan 209, 210 

Greek 220 

Gretchen ^^^ 

Heart and Shell. ■• 225 

"HTHisekeeper, The" 224 

Irish Picotee 221 

Old-fashioned 21o 

Open-diamond 205 

Open-square. 1 96 

Picot-shell. 198 

I'ineapple 203 

Pointed Curtain • lyl 

Princess 211 

K.>und-Shell Scallop. 1 90 

Ruffle. 219 

Scottish ' ^13 

Sliell and Fan 3 99 

Sliell-point 188 

Smple Shell 220 

Sngle-fan 199 

Spider-web 194 

Ten-minute 214 

Wide 208 

NOVELTY-BRAID LACES : 

Amy • 233 

Braid and Spider-web 244 

Centennial 245 



456 Index. 



Crochetted Point 236 

Crochetted Feather-edge 234 

Dainty. 264 

Daisy-leaf Edge. 238 

Doughnut 241 

Easy 234 

Elsie 228 

Fairy ., 239 

Fancy 240 

Feather-edge Braid 242 

Feather-edge Seal lop. 228 

Four-leaf Clover 253 

French (Edging) 248 

Grandma Garfield 243 

Infant's (Insertion) 249 

Irish Point 256 

Kansas (Edging) : 247 

Kansas 237 

Katura 252 

Lightning 230 

Medallion Braid 243 

Mignardise 229 

Minnesota 248 

Narrow Picot-braid (Insertion) 248 

Novelty Rick-rack 232 

Novelty Scallop 238 

Old Lady 246 

Patsie 246 

Picot-clia'n (Insertion) 248 

Pointed Scallop 241 

Queen.. 249 

School-girl 230 

Spider 226 

Strawberry. 255 

Tomboy 254 

Turkey-tail. 231 

Wave Braid 227 

Wave 251 

STITCHES : 

Basket-stitch Tricot 170 

Chain 166 

Crazy 170 

Cross and Ball 173 

Cross, Treble 168 

Double 167 

Double-shell 171 

Hollow-spot 172 

Julia. 170 

Mosaic. 175 

Muscovite Tricot 170 

Peak 170 

Rice 173 

Single 167 

Star 168 

Threr-loop 174 

Treble 167 

Tricot 169 

EMBROIDERY. 

STITCHES : 

Brier 11 

Bird's-eye 11 

Buttonhole 8 

Chain. 12 

Couching 12 

Cross 14 

Dot 9 



Index. 457 



Fancy, Additional 15 

Feather, or Coral irt 

Fodder Jg 

Herringbone 9 

Kensington Outline 7 

Knot. 8 

Long and Short 7 

Satin g 

USES FOR: 

Bag Tidy 40 

Banner, Silk, with I'eacock Plumage 37 

Curtains. 43 

Folding-stool Covering 36 

P'oot=rest, Cover for 27 

Mantel Lambrequin 37 

Muslin 39 

Piano Cover 41 

Pincushion 33 

Pond Lilies ; 32 

Poppies of Silk 30 

Screen, A Threefold 26 

Slipper Pat tern 32 

Snowbal 1 Leaves, Arra.sene 29 

Snowballs, Plush 29 

Sofa Pillow 41 

Sofa Pillow.Plush '.. 33 

Splasher, Pond Lily 37 

Strawberries, Plush, for Throw 31 

Table Cover 42 

Throw, Silk 33 

Wild Rose, Plush and Arrasene 27 

Wild Roses, Ribbon 28 

VARIETIES OF : 

Applique 20 

Arrasene 22 

Cut or Plush 21 

Enibioidery 011 Table Linen 1 <) 

Initials and Monograms 20 

Kensington 20 

Ribbon Work 23 

Roman 18 

Skeleton 19 

KNITTING. 

AETICLES IN: 

Afghan, Beautiful II3 

Afghan, Carriage 113 

Afghan, Sofa 112 

Ball, Baby's 162 

Braces .163 

Boots, Baby's 123, 1 25 

Boots, Lady's 1 26 

Cap, Gentleman's 159 

Capes, Shoulder I34, 135 

Chemise Yoke 128 

Chest Protector 148 

Collars 134 

l^qll 164 

Fringe .162 

Gloves, Gentleman's . ■ ]5(j 

Hood, Child's, and Muff 158 

Hood, Opera I57 

Hood , had y's 157,168 

Jacket, Infant s 130 

Jacket, Ladies' 132 

Jersey for Cliild 139 



458 Index. 



Knee Caps 149 

Lap-robe. 163 

],( g;iiigs, Child's 122 

Lciigiiigs, Knitted 121 

Mats, Diuing-table 164 

Mittens, Gentleman's 155 

Mittens, Lady's Si Ik 149 

Mittens, Lady's Fancy 151, 153 

Purse 131, 159 

Quilt, An Elegant 94, 102 

Quilt, Honeycomb Striped 109 

Quilt, Olive-leaf 100 

euilt. Orange-quarter 98 
uilt. Star 101 

Quilt, Striped 104 

Quilt, Triangle 106 

Shawl, A Quickly Made 136 

Shawl, Shoulder, Half-square 136 

.Shawl, Striped 134 

Shirt, Baby's Long-sleeved 146 

Shirt, Child's 145 

Shirt, Infant's 147, 148 

Skirt, Child's 139 

Skirt, Lady's 136, ] 38 

Slippers 127 

Slippers with Roll Top 128 

Stockings, Child's 120 

Stockings, Gentleman's Ribbed Silk 117 

Stockings, Girl's 118 

Stockings, Ladies' Plain Silk 115 

Stockings, Ladies' Silk 116 

Stockings, Railroad 119 

Stockings, Remarks on Knitting 115 

Tidy, Apple-leaf Ill 

Tidy, Chair 162 

Tidy, Vine 109 

Underdrawers 144 

Underve.st, Ladies' 140, 143 

Ve,st, Ladies' Silk 141 

Wristlets, Gentleman's 161 

DIRECTIONS 44, 48 

EDGINGS: 

Baby 84 

Beautiful 86 

Clover-leaf 86 

Delicate Ribbed 81 

Diamond 92 - 

Emperor's ' 88 

Faggot. 93 

Fluted Border 83 

French 87 

Half-Inch. 87 

Italian 91 

Leaf 90 

My.stic 90 

Narrow-toothed 90 

Oak-leaf. 89 

Openwork. 91 

Openwork Point 89 

Pointed. 84 

Pretty, A 86 

Quick 85 

Saw-teeth 80 

Sea-shell 88 

Swiss 93 

Trefoil 87 

Wonderful 92 



Index. 459 



LACES : 

Beautiful 66 

Blond Edge ' f 

Deep-knitted. 1} 

Delicate-ribbed °^ 

Diamond 4^ 

Feather H 

Fluted Bolder °^ 

Creciau ™ 

Heart 1° 

Knitted. Ij: 

Knitted Torchon ' " 

Lemon-seed ^' 

Marietta ig 

]\Iyrtle-leaf /.» 

Normandy ^° 

Openwork °" 

Openwork, Lace Edge ^^ 

Oran""e-leaf 

Rose-leaf, with Insertion 61 

Saw-teeth Edge °" 

Scroll-leaf 71 

PATTERNS : 



Afghan- 



Fern 



Kilt. 



Star. 



50 



Alglian, Baby's ^J. 

Braid Stripe ^" 

Cable %l 

Cane-work 2q 

Fancy Ribs tV 



54 



Herringbone Stripe f 2 



49 



Lattice-work ^* 

Looped i^ 

Lozenge 'ilt 

Oak Leaf, for Mittens "^ 

Peacock-tail •. *g 

Raised Plait, for Carriage o" 

Pidged Work *| 

Special ta 



58 



Tennirs. tf 

Trellis *'" 

Twisted Bar Stripe ^2 

Vandyke ^f 

Wave II 

Web, Plain *8 

NETTING. 

EMBROIDERED : 

Implements Required in 333 

Materials for ■ • ■ • ■ ^»* 

Moiuiting •^"^^' ^•** 

Wire Frame •*'*'* 

INSTRUMENTS USED IN 319 

MATERIALS FOR 320 

PATTERNS : 

Q] i-cie. 3*^^ 

Diagonal with Crossed Loops 328 

Fringe -^ ^'^^ 

Increasing and Decreasing ^.-jj 

Loops, Double and Oblong ^53 

Loops, Long and Short ^^° 

Loops inClustei-s ^^* 



460 Index. 



Loops over the Tliumb 325 

Meshes of Different Widths 323 

Square Begun from Middle 326 

Square Frame for Border 327 

Squares. 326 

Straight, with Scalloped Edge 327 

Strips of Straight 327 

PLAIN 319 

STITCHES : 

Buttonhole, Bordering in 345 

Buttonhole, Pointed Scallops in 339 

Corners, Rounded, on Netting. 343 

Cross, Ground Worked with 350 

Cross and Darning, Ground Worked in 359 

Cut Work 345 

Darning (Point de Reprise) 338 

Darning, Pointed Scallops in 338 

Darning and Cord, Ground Worked with 351 

Darning and Loop, Ground Worked in 349 

Darning, Ordinary 335 

Dot. Flower in. Linen Stitch 344 

Embroidered Netting, Ground of 353 

Geometrical Figures, Ground of 362 

Horizontal Lines, Groiuul Worked in 346 

Linen 335, 336 

Linen Set with Cord 343 

Loop, Double 322 

Loop, Honeycomb 322 

Loop, Intersected 346 

Loop, Oblong 322 

Loop, Plain 321 

Loop (Point d' Esprit) 336 

Loop, Straight 346 

Loops, Twisted 323 

One Above the Other, Ground Worked in 346 

Russian, Ground Worked in 347 

Scallops, Veined Pointed 339 

Squares and Wheels, Ground Worked with 351 

Star of Loose Threads 337 

Star with One-sided Buttonhole Stitches 342 

Thread, Two Sizes, Ground Worked in 348, 349 

Venetian, Pointed Scallops in 340 

Waved 346 

Wheels, Embroidered on Netting 340 

Wheels, Ribbed 341 

Wheels and Loop, Ground with 348 

Wheels Set with Buttonholing 341 

PAINTING. 

BOLTING-CLOTH 394 

CAMEO OIL 399 

DYE TINTING 407 

FLOWER PAINTING : 

Backgrounds 386 

Brushes 384 

Canvas 384 

Colors, To Choose 383 

Colors, To Mix 385 

Fabrics 387 

General Hints 388 

Outlines, To Sketch 384 

Palette, To Set 385 

KENSINGTON 382 

LACE 396 



Index. 461 



LANDSCAPE WORK, TO BEGIN 380 

LUSTRA 390 

PANELS, GROUND-GLASS 405 

PANSIES IN WATER COLORS 402 

PARIS TINTING 403 

PLUSH AND VELVET IN OIL 398 

PLUSH AND VELVET IN WATER COLORS 398 

SILK AND SATIN 397 

SUGGESTIONS FOR 

Banner 408 

Decoration for Bedstead 411 

Decoration for Jugs, etc 412 

Decoration for Wooden Articles 415 

Fan Mount 413 

Fan Wall-Pocket 409 

Foot-Rest. 410 

Handkerchief Box 412 

Modeling in Putty 414 

Peacock on Velvet 408 

Pillow Shams 414 

TAPESTRY 395 

WHITE WOOD 398 

PAPER-FLOWER MAKING. 

DIRECTIONS FOR 

Crimping. 417 

Curling 423 

Cutting 416 

(^offering .- 4 1 8 

Slippmg 420 

Staining 420 

Tinting 419 

FLOWERS : 

Aster 432 

Dahlia 428 

Daisy... 428 

Dandelion 430 

Peony 432 

Pink 430 

Poppy ....:^ 423 

Rose, Double 426 

Snowball 43O 

Tea Rose 424 

LEA"\"ES 439 

ROSETTE 432 

TATTING. 

EDGINGS 362,365, 367 

INSERTION 361, 364 

MEDALLIONS 363, 366 

SHUTTLES 355 

SHUTTLES. TO USE TWO 360 

STITCHES : 

Knot, Double 355 

Knot, Single 3.58 

Picots, Open and Closed 359 

Scallops, Detached. 3«U) 

Scallops with Picots 361, 364 



462 



Index. 



HOUSEKEEPER PATTERNS : 

Collar for Child 377 

Collar, Vandyke 378 

Edging, Clover-leaf 368 

Edging, Star 372 

Handkerchief Border 375 

Insertion, Empress ^72 

Insertion, Everlasting 368 

Lace, Bessie 36i> 

Lace, Duchess 369 

Lace, Euphemia 373 

Rosettes 371, 374 

Square for Tidy 375 

Wheel for Tidy 370. 



HINTS TO PURCHASERS OF MATERIAL. 



^ As a large portion of the needle -work now done requires silk thread of 
various kinds, it is the first care of the prudent buver to select a brand of 
long established reputation. To obtain reliable goods, the labels which ap- 
pear on spools or skeins should be carefully noted. Old American buyers 
are well aware that the name Cortlcelli when found on silk thread of any 




Fi«- A. KiG. B. 

^ CORTICELLI KNITTING SILK. FLORENCE KNITTING SILK. 

^irw 'r f,^"T?^^^ °^ great merit ;-under this ticket they find Sewing 
It' ? Ho °flnt P Twist, Knitting Silk, Embroidery Silk, Wash Silk, Ropf 
Silk, Filo-floss, Purse Silk and Gloye Mending Silk. Another pmn.lar 
name in silk is FlOreuce. This brand appearron balls of Knittin.. Silk 




Fig. C. 

Fig E 

corticelli sewing silk, button- 

CORTICELLI WASH EMBROIDERY SILK. MOLE TWIST AND BRAID. 

on other and smaller balls of Darning Silk, and on skeins of Filoselle;— 
the name Florence when used in connection with silk indicates the ''Soft 
^"ijsji variety, and that insures beauty, durability and comfort when you 
hnd It m the shape of Mittens.Gloyes, Stockings,Under-shirtsand Drawers 



HINTS TO PURCHASERS OF MATERIAL. 
An intelligent buyer of silk must study size as well as color. An ex- 
amination of the engravings wliicli appear here show skeins, bearing 
not only a brand, but numbers, one showing size, and another showing color. 
These features show intelligent care for the convenience of the con- 
sumer. It is unsafe to purchase any brand of silk for knitting or cro- 
chet-work, which is not rightly numbered as to size; uniformity in that 
respect is imperative if you do not wish to fail in your efforts; — observe 
the No. 300 shown in Figs, A and B. A study of the engravings makes 




Fig. D. corticelli rope silk. 

you familiar with some of the Corticelli and Florence goods; notice 
that group (Fig. C) ; yovi find silk, twist and braid, all of one color and 
one name. Is that not a great convenience.^ The braid, by the way* 
is not made of silk, but of choice worsted. If you want a silk braid, how- 




FlG. F. FLORENCE FILOSELLE. 

ever, in any width, made of the genuine Corticelli Sewing Silk, you 
can obtain it of any wide-awake merchant by asking. 

The makers of all these popular goods are known as the Nonotuck 
Silk Co., and have been established at Florence, Mass., more than fifty 
years. They have warerooms in New York, Boston, Chicago, St. Louis, 
Cincinnati and St. Paul where dealers can be supplied. 




014 ''It ''■ f-^'^ 4 



\ ^ 



X- N"^ 



V,>" ' ^ N 

















